Peter Habeler Interviewed by Ed Douglas

From the 2008 BMFF Program: Growing up in Mayrhonfen, Austria, Peter Habeler was naturally drawn to the mountains, and his passion for extreme climbing was sparked at an early age. By 16, he had conquered the most difficult rock and ice routes near his home, and at 21, he was a fully certified mountain guide. In the mid-1960s, Habeler forged a climbing partnership with Reinhold Messner that would make them the founding fathers of lightweight, alpine-style climbing. Using the latest technical equipment, the duo set the standard for fast and light ascents on difficult routes, setting speed records on the Eiger North Face and the Nordwand on the Matterhorn. With each successful climb came the motivation to push the limits further, and in 1978 they achieved what was then believed to be impossible-the first ascent of Mount Everest without the aid of supplemental oxygen.
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[@mikefox5127]

Mr. Habeler seems to be a wonderful fella, with incredible skills and drive. God bless you Peter

[@listrahtes]

It was a good interview but way too much about Messner. Talk to Messner if you want to make it so much about Reinhold. But dont bother Habeler so much esp. about things he wasnt even part of. In a way quite disrespectful to Habeler who is himself a great personality and alpinist.

[@johnmilon866]

Agreed. Very gracious of him to answer so many questions about Reinhold but a bit disrespectful.

[@dianamincher6479]

God bless Peter!

[@thangarajmj5814]

Overshadowed by the great Reinhold Messner

[@susanjenkinshabeler4489]

Kudos to Ed Douglas for giving the best interview of Peter Habeler I have ever seen. I must say in Peter's defense he did not "chicken out" on the Nanga Parbat expedition. We were recently married in Jackson Hole Woming. Peter was assistant director of the Teton Village Ski School and we spent the winter in Wyoming. April, 05, 1970 we had a baby boy that Peter named, Reinhold in honour of his favorite climbing friend, Reinhold Messner. We were "economically challenged" with the expense of the baby. We both visited Messner in hospital in Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria after he had the tragic experience on Nanga Parbat. I for one was thankful that Peter was home safe with our new family and I was not a widow. We later separated and divorced. Peter Habeler is a unique man and he has been a marvelous role model for so many people. Susan Jenkins Habeler

[@Northern85Star]

Susan Jenkins Habeler Thank you for your commentary. It is so interesting to hear about the lives of living legends.

[@ElSmusso]

Susan Jenkins Habeler Thank you for this info. Peter is a very interesting and brave man. I love hearing the stories of these men conquering mountains. Peace. ✌🏻

[@krollpeter]

I guessed it was not because he "chickend out", but from economic (family) reasons. He is not the man to just chicken out of something. It must have been hard for you at times being married to a man who does what he does. I am however glad reading that you have so good feelings for him.

[@viktormedina4631]

One of the unsung heroes of alpinism, and definitely on of the best of all time. What a man! Also, although I have always known, it never fails to impress me how much of a humble man he is. This is a true living legend, folks.Thank you for sharing this great interview!

[@holyfox94]

Great interview ABOUT Messner. 😉 Poor Mr. Habeler. Seems impossible for him to get out of his shadow. I’m shure Habeler would have tons of interesting stories about himself.

[@evab.6240]

Yes!!!

[@ohoto3896]

What a pleasant, intelligent man. Thanks Eddy His recall is amazing. I could listen to him talk about his climbs or anything else really for hours.

[@wolfgangmotzafi-haller9805]

Peter Habeler is not only a outstanding record breaking mountaineer but also a great human being which is unfortunately not always the case with such accomplished mountain climbers. Many of them are eccentric and focused primarily on themselves.N👍👍

[@wolfgang6028]

Peter Habeler ist mir sehr sympathisch...

[@griffith500tvr]

What a difference in charisma there is between Habeler and Messner, I am not surprised Habeler is practically unknown outside the mountaineering community.

[@heathermcavoy260]

A Legend.Ive visited Mayrhofen several times.Actually seen Peter Habeler in Person at the Mt.Everest Restaurant in Mayrhofen💖👌

[@stuartrankin4851]

Woody! Brilliant editing from Banff Centre as usual. Love that it is online!

[@andro1110]

Very interesting interview

[@lifesahobby]

Legend

[@ropatekosa4501]

Fantastic interview. Thanks for the upload.

[@joseflemire4284]

Both Mr. Habeler and Mr. Messner are joined forever in Mountaineering, but also joined as Brothers of the Quest....the Quest for knowledge about your Spirituality....as the climb of these home of the gods are Spiritual in their Nature

[@clivedavies5618]

As mentioned Eric Jones and Leo Dickinson were on the 78 Everest expedition. Don Whillans was unimpressed by Dickinson -"Leo on Everest? Don't make me laugh. It's helium not oxygen he'll need."

[@MacSteve07]

Wonderful person, well-read and still in a good condition!

[@rafaelgomez1284]

Peter Habeler has a virtue that makes him a real mountaineer: humankind. The mountain climbing Olympus, is full of stars, records and competition -and deaths of course-. However selfish personalities and blind ambitions of summits and routes, had a real effect of deshumanization of the sport. And of course is the money, an the fame inherited to it. Like brand new Ph D´s, these is always a column of unknown mountaineers, that want to show themselfs the marketing scenario their achievements. That is part of the modern society. But in this relentless pursuit something important and central in this activity is lost: the mountain itself. In the fierce strugle, man has lost the sensible perception of its relation with nature, that makes him a rational being. There is, or more exactly, there was an other mountainnering, of people that rises over its fears and limitations to conquest, nothing more that themselves. The alpinist of the Golden Age, Mummery, Mallory, Gervasutti ad, of course Walter Bonatti. The loved the mointain and made it its home.They probe we are inteligent animals in a vasted world.

[@Woodthreep]

Amazing interview! Thanks for sharing

[@rickfucci4512]

Fast and light

[@simonflyboy]

Outstanding

[@paulmitchell5349]

He was always eager...………………………………………….for the Eiger!

[@ker0666]

Looks clever, bright !

[@TerlinguaTalkeetna]

Nice post, enjoyed Peter's energy and stories. Well done Ed as well.

[@alligatorhaterskater6379]

it's not italy "well i mean sudtirol", it's italy, period. as an italian myself i can't stand this sort of thing

[@dopeoplereally3972]

Well, I'm from Kentucky and I can't stand you

[@dudel39]

You got handed south tirol because you switched sides to the winners im ww1. South tyrol as a region is much closer to austria culturally. Saying its italy is not only ignorant but also pathetically nationalistic.

[@PW-qi1gi]

My grandmother was from Suedtirol and she would have felt insulted if someone called her "Italian". She also did not want to be Austrian. They have their own local identity there.