Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K: Is 4K the Way?

[@jesuszamora8408]

This channel is so underrated i had problems with my resin 3d printer and i solved them thx to this channel

[@alexandermumm3922]

i wanna see more models printed on both with the same resin and compared

[@aaustin7532]

To keep your cover clean you can use auto paste wax to keep your resin from sticking the plastic covers. Some liquid waxes should work, but you want to make sure they don't contain silicone because if that gets on your build plate, or in your vat, it'll reduce the resin's ability to adhere.

[@3DPrintFarm]

Oh! I'm trying this! Thanks!

[@charlesfe]

This was a real pain to level, I even tried C-clamps to force pressure on the build plate while I tightened the screws but that did not work either. Turns out the way the bracket is stamped and then folded, the cut side of the stamp ends up on the INSIDE which makes the interior surface around the holes for the screws not flat. This could vary a bit from bracket to bracket so not everyone will necessarily have the same leveling problem. The way I solved this was: 1. remove the aluminum build plate from the bracket 2. used a flat file on the interior of the bracket to file the metal surrounding the cut outs flush with the rest of the bracket (this took about a minute per side) a. you'll know its good enough when the bracket moves much more freely up and down the sides of the build plate and no longer leaves scratches when doing so 3. reinstall the screws and re-level the build plate After performing this I had to exert almost no pressure to keep the built plate pinning the paper down during the leveling process and have had perfect prints since.

[@WHJeffB]

My unit arrived yesterday and I did pretty much the same... I used my Dremel tool with a grinding bit to chamfer the inside edges of the slotted holes. Then I filed off any raised areas with a sharp file. This was followed up with sanding the surface with 220 grit, then 400 grit emery paper. For the aluminum build plate, I lightly draw filed the surface where the bracket mounts, then sanded it with 220/400 grit emery paper, until the surface was smooth and scratch free. Lastly... To ensure that the build plate and bracket sit still when tightening the screws, I used slightly longer 4mm screws and two washers per screw (eliminates the twisting moment imparted by tightening the screw) to mount the bracket. Works smooth as silk now...

[@0hSh00t]

An easy fix for the "sticky" build plate is to file down the inner edges of the bracket. The bracket is pressed metal, and it's been pressed in the direction of the alu block. Rounded file for the "corners" of the slots, and a flat file otherwise.

[@jurgenriedl7347]

I stretched the bracket a bit, the release of the buldplate is now easy. However the print is not good sticking. I cleaned now in addition the build plate with acetone as long as the paper towal was not entirely clean. Tomorrow I will know if now the print sticks to the build plate. In my Elegoo Saturn In didn't had those issues.

[@WungoBungo]

@@jurgenriedl7347 I did the same. Great tip from both of you. Will clean it up with a file later. Cheers

[@jurgenriedl7347]

@@WungoBungo Now I'm printing the Mini4k since two month. My experience: sanding of the buildplate is rather essential (my wambam is arrived and waiting for installation). And the burning layer needs to get minimum failures (unfortunately) 30 - 35seconds, whereas the usual layer takes 2.2 to 3 seconds. Just for information. The reason for the long burn in time might be the bending of the build plate arm.

[@davidcobb7557]

Glad to se you back again!

[@kevincantrell6295]

High there, I am throughly confused about 3D Printers. I am new and have no idea where to start. Just when I think I have one selected I see stuff that says it is horrible. I want to be in the $500-600 range if I can find a great 3D Resin printers to start with. Can you give me and idea where to go. I want to do figures and assemble parts as well.

[@GustavoSanchez64]

Since the vats and build plate mounts are identical I wonder if you can just buy the 4k build plate and use it on the regular mini for the slightly larger build volume and change in chitubox accordingly?

[@Alex__S]

What was probably very useful and worthwhile mentioning: 1) The slightly improved print speed - 50mm/hour on the Mini vs 60mm/hour on the Mini 4K 2) The single biggest difference is the XY resolution - 62 micron on the Mini vs 35 micron on the Mini 4K. Compared to Anycubic Mono SE (51 micron) or Photon S (47 micron), the Mini 4K provides the best XY resolution. However, the XY resolution improvement compared to Photon S is just 12 Micron whereas the improvement compared to the Mini is almost double. In conclusion: buying the Mini 4K makes sense if you want an upgrade to your old Mini. On the other hand if you own the Photon S, I'm not sure if the small XY resolution improvement of the Min 4K is worth the money. If it is the speed you're looking for, then you're better off with Photon Mono SE with 80mm/hour for the same money trading in 16 micron on the XY resolution compared to Mini 4K.

[@charlesmitchell487]

Very helpful! One of the issues I've heard about is the z (?) arm bending very slightly before the plate pulls away. It doest look as though your print quality suffers from it, but I was just wondering if you had that experience.

[@reyadalkubabji2022]

can you print same model on both of them with high def pic ?

[@vetfreshlyretired452]

Looking to add a smaller printer to my Transform sonic 4K. What's the difference between the Mighty 4K and mini 4K. I think I want the mighty but the flat build plate and the plastic vat doesn't appeal to me.

[@chucklamb3496]

Good seeing you again!

[@3DPrintFarm]

Thanks brother!

[@tp6498]

Does that grey resin you mention require a well ventilated room when using or is it apartment friendly? Thanks.

[@BrushpointJ]

Not sure if you've got your answer or not yet, since it's been 6 months, but I figure I'd chime in in case you hadn't or anyone coming across this has the same question. I live in an apartment and I keep my printer in my bedroom, printing with Sirayatech Fast Grey as well- the smell is almost impossible to notice unless I'm going through post-processing a print. But, I do most of my post-processing and printing near an open window, so I don't usually have an issue. Most other modern 3d printer resins should be about the same, but Sirayatech's stuff is super cheap per volume, and it's really easy to print with.

[@alvinscott8380]

I must ask again for your settings on the 4K please

[@3DPrintFarm]

Sure! Layer: .05, Bottom 4, Exposure 2.5, Bottom Exp. 25s, Light Off, 7s, Bottom Light Off 9s, Bottom Lift 6mm, Lifting Distance 5, Bottom Lift Speed, 60, Lifting Speed, 60, Retract 150

[@PKToysoldier]

@@3DPrintFarm Do you have Anti-aliasing enabled as well with these? Just got my Sonic Mini 4k this week and am new to resin printing but can't get crisp details from the prints like your examples. My settings weren't too different aside from exposure time being at 8 seconds, what impact does using 2.5 instead change? I am also using Simple Green to clean until I can get some IPA99.

[@Chyropunk]

@@PKToysoldier you can get overcured resin by exposing it too much time, that takes away the details (fusion the resin), in this channel there is a video where you can print a validation 3d , it helped me i hope helps you too.

[@WHJeffB]

@@3DPrintFarm Thanks for these settings!!! My Mini-4K has been sitting here with a bottle of the Siraya Tech Fast resin next to it for about a month. I've been reluctant to try printing with it for lack of proven settings for this resin. I'm not on Facebook or any of the 3D printing Forums, so this has been a great help. Thanks again!

[@BlazingGunner]

To clean the covers use IPA then wipe it down with some 3-IN -ONE PTFE lubricant worked really good for me.

[@guilhermeguerra3441]

Hello, Is the 4K faster than the phrozen sonic mini? I am really curious as to how long a mini like you showed in the beginning of the video will take to print! Thank you sir o/

[@Art_911]

Thanks for this. Good info. I"m new to the world of Resin 3D printing. And placed my order for the 4k Mini (they are back-ordered so maybe in Dec.) I look forward to the resolution. I'll be trying the water washable resins as well. I'm wondering (haven't seen a review online yet) is it's worth buying the 4k resin?

[@br0k3nilluzion]

this Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k versus the LD002H , is the 4k that much better ?

[@allanlarsen3261]

Just received my Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k today. It do NOT have the issue with the tight 4 screw leveling bracket. It moves nice and smooth, and levels just fine. Maybe I was just lucky, or maybe Phrozen fixed the problem.

[@WHJeffB]

Mine arrived yesterday... Had that problem and spent about 30 minutes deburring, filing, and sanding the bracket and build plate mounting area. I pilfered longer 4mm mounting screws and washers from work today and now the assembly is bind free and thanks to washers under the four screw heads, the build plate does not move when the screws are tightened. I'm hoping the prints look better than my original Photon... Honestly, it's not as robust a machine as I'd hoped it would be. But I've not heard much for issues with them so far (other than the tight build plate bracket).

[@MyTony00]

I would also like to know your settings. But mostly, what layer height are you printing at?

[@3DPrintFarm]

Layer height is .05. I'll add the settings in the description! Thanks!

[@lishathorne]

I have a shadow 5.5s am new to resin printing and wondering if you think the Phrozen sonic mini is better? I am not getting great detail from the Shadow and it looks nothing like what you are getting. I know I need practice with slicing software but I am a 3 modeler first and just enjoy seeing my work in plastic. Resin seems to be working much better for me then my 2 pla printers.

[@Flagazz]

Hi @Lisha.. it all depends what king of object you wanna print, but yes... Sonic Mini 4k is a bit smaller than your 2K Shadow and has higher resolution... the PPI (pixel per inch) is more dense in Sonic Mini and the edges got a bit more sharp and shows smaller details (but you need a lupe or “theated eyes” to see the difference). A good moviment nowadays is go for mono screens cause those ones are faster (around 2x) and more durable than RGB LCDs (at leadt 3x). This will make much more difference than 4k over 2k. Sonic Mini is also mono. A good and cheap one is the LD-002H (the red cover one) that is 2k and mono for about +-220 dolars over +-320 for the 4k one. I hope these advices helps you... I don’t know if it came to late. But you can try in your Shadow to tune your setting and learn about supports in SLA printers cause they are much diferent displayed than FDM printers to a sucessefull print. I can point to you some good videos if you want. Cheers! Fernando Gazzola / 3dSolid

[@spokoman23]

Thanks for t he video. Maybe some1 mention this already, but it would be great to see a comparison print: same model, same resin, same settings, 2 printers.

[@WHJeffB]

I've owned a Photon for over a year and though I'm happy with it, I'll be buying a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k as soon as they're done catching up with all the pre-orders and they start getting sold at the discount houses... Monochrome screen + 4K resolution, how you could you go wrong?!

[@TheFatalintention]

I missed your channel!

[@3DPrintFarm]

Thanks!

[@Metroidf4n]

I just got a Photon S and the layer lines bug me, I've even tried printing at 0,03mm instead of the regular 0,05mm, and i can still see them, for someone who uses airbrushes a lot, this is quite annoying, maybe I'll send it back and get the Sonic Mini 4k instead. Has anyone else experienced the same thing? Or am I just fucking up somewhere?

[@3DPrintFarm]

The monochrome screened machines do tend to give a better resolution. I can understand how layer lines can be frustrating. It can also be a combination of the type of resin you are using as well as the exposure times. Many of the monochrome printers have an anti-aliasing feature that helps smooth out some of those lines.

[@Metroidf4n]

​@@3DPrintFarm Thank you for this! I'm currently using the anycubic basic grey resin, but I've got some elegoo ABS like coming in the mail. I started using Anti-aliasing on Lychee and it's going a little better. I've also got some nFEP coming in. So eventually I'll get there! From what I've heard about the mini 4k is that it has a lot of problems with the Z-axis, it tends to bend in the first few layers, so I'm holding back on that for now.

[@LuisPa247]

Monochromatic and 4k, thats the way. Have you tried the Anycubix Photon Mono X? its awesome in my opinion. Fast as heck and prints beautifully. By the way, nice job as always.

[@99Plastics]

Epax, nuff said.

[@3DPrintFarm]

Dude! I've got one a Mono X coming! Stay tuned.

[@voldy3565]

I didn't know John de Lancie had a 3d printing channel.

[@joegkushner]

What size are you printing that at? Which game/system is it supposed to be for? Are you printing at 32mm or 28mm?

[@coulterjb22]

Sounds like a 3D Print Farm over there with all of those printers...... Are you making and selling anything anywhere?

[@kanarimentos7056]

is that donkey behind you for sale

[@GMSpada]

not that i've done that before..

[@nektariosvarras8111]

Car wax the cover before use. Resin wont stick as easily.

[@cylam1474]

thank you the comment!`

[@joaquinnahuelmorales2925]

u are very funny bro

[@SuperChunk1775]

Sonic mini sucks