Piaggio Moped Engine Rebuild

[@glecas]

Dissasemble - Flywheel and Electric components 1:35 Dissasemble Cylinder 6:31 Piston Removal 8:02 Crankcase splitting 10:13 Crankshaft bearings removal 17:07 Crankshaft inspection 19:07 Bearings mounting 22:41 Crankshaft & crankcase mounting 24:18 Ignition parts measuring 27:46 Ignition parts mounting 35:10 Breaker points setting and adjusting 39:11 Ignition testing 41:39 Cylinder-kit mounting 42:44

[@charlestalavera3717]

Thanks you buddy apreciate

[@wolfsberg86]

Hi Carsten. I’m still using this video as a guide, last used it about 4 years ago. Thank you so much for making it. People like me really appreciate the guidance. My crankshaft is currently in the freezer, while bearings are in the oven.

[@kellyk.6093]

Thanks so much for sharing this information! This is what the internet should be.

[@GettingNervous]

The Piaggio moped engine is such a simple thing, but I like it very much when things are simple and tough. Nice tutorial about the rebuild. I have done these work many times and so I can say this is a fine guide for beginners.

[@afterraincomessun]

today i started with the revision of the engine because it had some strange vibration. did that often in the past but not for some years . stopped half way and needed some help and advice so turned to you tube : your video is of great help ; tomorrow i am going to fix the problem!

[@fastbicyclerider7300]

afterraincomessun u need to fix the flywheel with flyweight

[@roryren.2240]

I am buying a broken vespa from a friend for an emergency vehicle and i hope this helps me rebuild the engine!!! You are amazing!

[@ricklieffering]

Great video! This will be my go-to video if I ever need to pull the engine apart. Thanks for taking the time to show everything.

[@christophfriedlaender4097]

Hi Carsten, thank you very much for sharing your calm, essential and very informative video. It helped me a lot to bring an old Ciao back on the street. Kind regards Chris

[@ವ್ಯಾಸಮೂರ್ತಿ]

Dear friend, it's very interesting to watch this video. Very useful to understand the moped engine mechanism. Thanks for sharing and taking so much of pain to make this video 👌

[@mikelowrey5275]

Respect for your work man

[@michaellacko6568]

Very nice video ! This engine is use in my piaggio boxer too. ( sorry for mistakes, i am from Slovakia )

[@ivanbrecko5900]

Thank you for excellent presentation! I have learned a lot new things about ciao engine.

[@norbertvisser8369]

Thanks for showing how to do this. It helps me out a lot !

[@prinshatseflats]

im rebulding a piaggio bravo and this is gonna help me a lot, tanks

[@Chris-yy7qc]

Thanks for that awesome how to! This will help a a lot, because right now Im overhauling a bravo engine. Subscribed to your channel! Greetings from Germany, fellow neighbor!

[@stone8597]

Great video!, Thanks for posting in English...I appreciate it👍

[@rickybailey7123]

Great tips this guy knows the correct way to do it make sure to Pay attention!!

[@BrendaEM]

Good work. It looks like you've done this many times before. I like your solid surface counter-top. A soda-blaster would make those casings look almost like new, and perhaps some Evaporust or electrolysis for rust.

[@turbofiat]

Excellent video! I've got a 1996 Kinetic TFR (Luna) which was made in India using a copy of the Ciao engine but lacks the variator. One of the crankcase bearings failed in my engine. I took it apart and replaced the bearings. After the bearings had failed, I was able to spin it with a drill but not start it. At this point it had 100 PSI of compression. Not that great but not bad. That gasket that goes between the two engine halves they sent me looked like it was cut from an aluminum Pepsi can and did not seal worth a damn and lost compression and sucked in air. After putting the engine back together the compression dropped to 90 PSI and would only run at WOT (lean). I then discovered gas/oil leaking from where the two engine halves go together. I made a paper gasket from the aluminum one I was sent. I put the engine back together but for some reason this time it would not start at all. It took it apart again and accidently broke one of the rings which trying to remove it. I should have replaced them anyway while I had the engine apart. I ordered new rings but got frustrated and quit on it. That was eight years ago. It may have been an unrelated issue (carburetor). I boxed the engine and parts up and pushed it into a storage building and it's sat there ever since. I just recently acquired a 1985 Tomos Silver Bullet. I'm putting a 70cc kit on it. I also have a 1999 Tomos TX-50 dirt bike which uses the A35 engine and transmission. Don't know if these were only sold for the US market. You've inspired me to get my Kinetic out and take another look at this thing. One reason I watched your video is the ring orientation. Seems like the go on a certain way. And that decompression valve! I'll check out your Cioa performance video. My Tomos seems to be restricted to 32 kph. I think because in the 1980s you could ride this if you didn't have a driver's licence. BTW. I live in Tennessee, United States. Interesting enough, the moped laws that were in place in my state years ago seem to be obsolete. I had to register my Silver Bullet as a motorcycle and there is no laws on increasing it's power as long as I don't go over the posted speed limit. I also have to have a standard driver's license (125ccs+ requires a motorcycle license).

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Thanks for the interesting read. I hope you get the Vespa copy out on the road again with help from my videos :)

[@mtwseneca]

I have a 2001 Kinetic (slower than an old dog - spedo says 30 while radar sign says 25, needs to go at least 30 to avoid being run over in single lanes) - I made an expansion pipe with twin muffs and wrapped the thing in fiberglass to further quiet it, that added 5 mph. Did the 13;13 carb with a 55 jet, and that added a tiny bit of power. But the main restriction appears to be in the engine case, thus I am studying vids here and Carsten's are great (and in English, not Italian- nice). Thank you Carsten!! Mike Oh, Carsten, I have been experimenting with a valve in the exhaust "bleeder" that gives some variable back pressure to regain the low end that is typically lost with the expansion deal. A weighted plunger sits against a seat (nearly vertical pipe) and as flow presses against the plunger, it rises to uncover holes that vent the exhaust into the muffler. The low end seems (as far as I can tell) like stock, and the back pressure increases to just over one pound at 30 mph, the pipe seems to "Hit" at 20 mph.

[@SirCharles.]

also, a good tip for assembling bearings: after you heat the bearings, get a can of keyboard cleaner/compressed air can and turn it upsidedown and spray to quickly cool the crank shafts before dropping on the bearing. it's quicker and easier than putting the whole crank in the freezer.

[@heinzstucki3069]

Sehr gutes Video! Danke Gruss von Heinz aus der Schweiz.

[@oklyonem]

The best video available for the Vespa engine. Could You do more video’s of the clutch etc well so far thx

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Thank you :) I will do my best to make more, when i can find the time.

[@TheZemun]

Kudos to you Sir . But I have to ask , you didn't show us that modification about intake port and crankcase that you mention ... other than that this is perfect .

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Thank you! I made a video only about the tuning part here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ap7Go2hjqdp0hLs I thought it would be best to keep them apart, so that the non tuners don't have to go through it all :)

[@TheZemun]

Good point , thanks. Going there wright now .

[@dogsta100]

You do an excellent job on theese Videos - keep on - Thank you!!

[@Voidingo]

Really thank you sir ,you had my total respect👌

[@whiterazer1]

Super video will use it soon to restore my engine.

[@ml9754]

The professional job thank you very much

[@afterraincomessun]

nice video thanx ; my motor parts did not want to loosen but then i had not heated them!

[@gschady]

5:35 = "keyway" on the shaft and washer/ bushing slots 38:00 = "key" goes into keyway slot and washer/ bushing slots

[@THEGREATMIRELIO]

mi ero addormentato a guardalo... continuo domani

[@messenger6279]

great video.thanks for the time and effort.central california.

[@peterholbein6878]

Tolles Video, bist ein Ehrenmann!

[@g1jensen]

Tak for den her mega gode film du har lavet her, den er virkelig guld værd👍🏻 har selv lige renoveret min egen ciao motor ved hjælp af denne film 👍🏻 plus man blev en del klogere på netop denne motor 👍🏻😎

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Tak for de fine ord, er glad for at kunne hjælpe 🙂

[@g1jensen]

Kæmpe hjælp 👍🏻☺️

[@g1jensen]

Lige et spørgsmål. Kan du anbefale man bruger den alu pakning som bundpakning der høre med til det polini cylinderkit jeg har købt. Eller bør man selv lave en i pakningspapir 😊?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@g1jensen jeg laver altid en ny passende papir pakning. Dermed ikke sagt at alu ikke duer, synes bare de ofte passer dårligt.

[@g1jensen]

Okay, umildbart passede den faktisk som den skulle, så tænker jeg tager chancen 😊

[@isfint]

Perfect! You’re the best!

[@canon646j4]

Thank you for this video. Would you know what would cause my si moped to not want to restart when it's hot? It runs great, but doesn't want to restart easily after shut off until it cools?😂

[@EmilsTechDenmark]

Condensator is burned, buy one from thorcap, the bottom one.

[@andreacecere9010]

Ziemlich gut erklaert gutes video

[@billwebb8561]

Excellent video, Thank you.

[@simonktl2191]

Vielen Dank damit kann man endlich mal auf Fehlersuche gehen. btw. Denglish vom feinsten :D "if there is a short" traumhaft ! mach weiter mit den Videos.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Ich glaub sogar das man im Englischen auch "short" sagt, wie in short circuit? :)

[@simonktl2191]

Hört sich im ersten Moment witzig an ! Möchte nicht an deiner Stelle stehen und um die Fachbegriffe ringen :P

[@m.k.1191]

Thank you! It helped me alot!

[@rclavier]

very good job, thanks a lot

[@gummitrold4137]

tak for en god video skal til den helt store renovering på min ciao din video hjælper mig nok en del :D

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Velbekomme, det glæder mig at høre.

[@BlueshiftRadio]

Ganz locker das beste ciao motor video. R E S P E K T

[@CosticaMaistoru-vf5sl]

Aș dori sa traduceti in limba romina si mai tare sonorul va multumesc

[@samuelgretillat1976]

complimenti per il video. ottimo :)

[@porknbeans7420]

You're English is better than Americans I know. I'll never understand why I couldn't learn another language this well. Even after 10 years in Germany I wasn't this fluent. Sigh.

[@jonescy]

Thanks! Really good video!

[@jonescy]

How do I know in which way I should install the piston if it doesn't have markings?

[@henrikkrievs4274]

Great Video Carsten

[@nuil501]

Very nice video, Carsten. I am restoring a 1971 Ciao, stopped for years. Did you say 12 Nm to tight each head nut? Thanks for sharing, oscar.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes 12 Nm is fine.

[@gabrielanderssonbergstrom4748]

Great video! what measurments are there on the flywheel puller?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

I haven't measured, just bought it. Most moped shops have it in their catalogue.

[@timobrecht2850]

Thank you.

[@3FEET-]

i love what you doing man, i started doing this rebuild i few months now, the only problem that, i am facing is i cant fint flywheel removal tool :'( ! i dont like to use hammer ! thanks for the videos

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Where do you live? In Europe it's easy to get.

[@3FEET-]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V I’m living in the north of Africa ( Morocco) ! I saw same one that you have in several sites but the shipping is too expeinsive very expensive I must invest to buy it 😛 ! I appreciate your effort to put this video online, thanks again 🤝

[@Fabian-lu8xy]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V could you send me a link for the remover? ^^

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@Fabian-lu8xy www.jmpbparts.com/vliegwieltrekker-citta-ciao.html

[@andreinico8541]

Thank you bro good man.

[@SirCharles.]

damn that's a small ass intake port, I didn't know they came that small. my Ciao seems to have poor ignition, the spark is weak and sometimes takes a lot of pedaling to start, especially when hot. I use NGK B7HS normally, it won't spark at all when using a surface gap spark plug without the little armature, I believe it's NGK BU8H type plug.

[@scaniabeast5026]

Thanks for this video :)

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

You are welcome :)

[@andersbacklund6224]

hey nice video! ive watched it many times. Hope you can answer even though its such an old video. I was just wondering: are the crankshaft bearings lubricated from the fuel/oil mixture or did you put some bearing grease there?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

They are lubricated by the oil in the gasoline. I may have used sealed bearings where i removed the seals, hence the grease residue. It's fine, gives lubrication on the start up. If you have "dry" bearings, give them a few drops of oil.

[@andersbacklund6224]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V ok thanks! I might have used bearing grease on the bearings before installing. Do you think it's best to open up and remove it or do you think it will wear off?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@andersbacklund6224 it wears of over time. No biggie.

[@andersbacklund6224]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V ok thanks for the info!

[@idontcareaboutyou7757]

bruh.. you did it better than an italian. great job.

[@steffenkruse2176]

lækker video, kæmpe hjælp, da jeg skal i gang med 2x renovation af vespa ciao motore

[@misterx1708]

Gutes Video und ordentlich erklärt, wäre aber schön wenn es dieses noch mit deutscher Sprache gäbe.

[@PSYGOZz]

I have no spark on my bravo. Tried a new condensor, didnt work. So i am going to do the test of ignition parts, as you do in the video. Can i keep the cylinder on, while checking for spark? Just mounted a malossi gasket set on it, and don't want to ruin it. Thinking of taking the spark plug out, and letting some gasoline in, just in case...

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes you can keep the cylinder in place, it's easier. Take the spark plug out, and maybe a few drops of oil to lubricate the piston while you test turn it.

[@PSYGOZz]

Tak for svaret, og tak for videoen. Den er bare go :)

[@ciulee]

Carsten Lorenzen....Hi. I need to have a confirmation: at about 41:45 you show how to check if electrical system works well. My question is: the external coil must be attached to the engine case with a bolt as it seems in the images? Many many thanks in advance for your answer. P.S.: this video is really great and very useful! Thumbs up!

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes, the coil is connected to ground via the engine case. Same goes for when it's mounted on the moped. It has to have a good connection to the frame. I like to connect a wire between the engine case and coil, to be sure. Especially after new paint etc, that can isolate the electrical connection.

[@ciulee]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V .....Fist of all many thanks for your fast answer. Well...the frame of the Piaggio Ciao i am restoring has been re-painted and so i think i will brush the part of the frame where the external coil is mounted in order to not have problems of isolation. Many thanks again!

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

You can do the same on the rear engine mount on the left side. Put a "toothed" washer under the bolt, it will give a good connection between the frame and engine.

[@ciulee]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V .....Thank you very much for this advice.

[@ciulee]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V ....Few minutes ago i have tested the electrical system of my moped: everything works well and there is a perfect plug. Thanks.

[@rickybailey7123]

Best cleaner I've ever used on aluminum isAluminum bright It will make your aluminum cases look Brand New

[@advaitmore3144]

Can you please give the threading specifications of the flywheel remover. It's difficult to get that part in my country. Thank you!

[@darrenmelia4527]

Thread is 17x1, recommended tool is the Buzzetti 17R1. Good luck

[@advaitmore3144]

@@darrenmelia4527 thanks a ton!

[@Jerome____]

17x1

[@Eichelkitzzler]

Hey ! Tolles Video. Woher hast du den Wuchtblock ? Und wie lange hast du gebraucht ?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@Eichelkitzzler hallo, kann ich leider nicht erinnern. Sip oder scooter center vielleicht? Mit Filmen vielleicht 4 Stunden? Kommt meistens auf die Menge an Reinigung an.

[@JocoGorenc23]

Can I put a 60 or 70cc kit on original motor?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes 43 mm bore fits on the standard engine. That gives you about 63 ccm.

[@JocoGorenc23]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V ¸thanks for the annswer. I was actually concerned if the other components will be OK with higher power?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@JocoGorenc23 the original crank handles it great, very good quality.

[@JocoGorenc23]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V great man, thanks for advice =)

[@timostrom5710]

i've put thousands of miles on the DR vespa kits with stock cranks.

[@ivarmalmcrona9303]

hallo just want to thank you for this great tutorial. 🗿

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Thanks for your comment, it was fun making this video. I think i will make more in the future :)

[@patrickrindal8441]

Hei Carsten, fantastisk fin video. Jeg er i gang med å renovere en Ciao jeg fikk av min bestefar før han gikk bort. Vil gjerne at den blir helt strøken, så derfor ønsker jeg å vite hva du renset motoren med? Et karr med en børste? Håper du har anledning til å svare, takk på forhånd!

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Patrick Rindal, jeg bruger en stiv børste og petroleum, det er super til at løsne gammel olie snavs. Det er nemmest få fat i lampeolie eller tændvæske til grillen, det indeholder næsten kun petroleum. God fornøjelse med arvestykket :-)

[@keremyumak879]

Do you have a video showing all the cables?

[@keesgroeneveld965]

Nice Vid, do you have a video for an electronical carter

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

No, but it's even easier than the model with breaker points. I think the tuning video i made, is an electronic ignition model. But i'm not talking about the ignition in that video. It just needs to be installed, no adjusting.

[@keesgroeneveld965]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V Ok thanks Do you know wich wires would you need to check with a multimeter on the elec. ignition? and are the volts the same as the breakerpoint ign.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes, here are some values I've measured. Light, brown 2,1 ohm 6V/10W brakelight or horn Light, blue 4,0 ohm 12V/10W indicators Light, yellow 0,7 ohm 6V/20W lights front/rear Ignition green 430 ohm - ignition primary Ignition red 51,8 ohm - pickup Ignition white ~0 ohm - ground CDI output wire 4420 ohm All measured against ground. The three ignition wires are the same for all cdi models. The colors for the light coils can vary. All measurements can very 10% i guess.

[@keesgroeneveld965]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V Thanks again yr help! in the vid yr talking abt blowing on the carb inlet to check air thightness. do you have any air escaping? ik just build a speedengine with a 65cc DR however all nice and tight but with blowing does seem to have air escaping, really minor..

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@keesgroeneveld965 it's normal to experience some leakage, but only minor. But you need to feel a good resistance. Hard to describe a feeling like that, kinda takes some experience :-)

[@vespadrivestyle3636]

thanks for the nice vid :)

[@SuperEirik12345]

Veldig god video, hilsen fra Norge

[@mathiaskongedam7810]

Rigtig go video den vil jeg bruge når jeg skal igang med min ciao. Ville dog gerne ha set hvordan du fik plumpen ud ?😊👍

[@JasJJ69]

Could i put first the bearings in the engine then the crankshaft

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes that is possible, but then you can't achieve a large temperature difference, than the other way. The engine cases with bearings can only be heated to 120°C, so it's a good idea to put the crank in the freezer for at day. I would start with the small closed case, that side of the crankshaft is the tightest fitment and can cause trouble. If it doesn't go straight on, you can't hit press/hit it on, as it will damage the bearing. That's why i prefer to mount the bearings on the crankshaft first, if the hot and cold method doesn't work, i can still press/hit the bearing the rest of the way. The fitment between the engine case bore and bearing outerring is not that tight, and you can heat the cases higher to 150-200°C. So my recommandation is like in the video, but the other way is also ok if done right.

[@gabrielarn2934]

We hebben de lagers opgewarmd tot 120 graden ,Maar we kregen ze er niet op ..hoe kan dat?

[@borreltjuh83]

tevens krukas in de diepvries, daarna monteren

[@revhead03]

hey , great video i have same engine im trying to start it. installed new piston ,rings ,no leakage from head ,suction from carburator side works fine , spark is good as well as coils.....yet engine not firing up, a little misfires once or twice , hence fuel comes up , i thought maybe decompression valve might be leak but checked for leak test all good......but still engine not firing up... please help , let me know if i missed something, im stuck !!!!!!

[@adambulkowski4722]

hmm maybe you have put the wrong fuel mixture?

[@DerpedSpecies]

Check sparktiming, I had a ciao once that stripped the locating ping for the flywheel all by itself.

[@bjornpolman98]

Hey! Did you solve the problem? And So, how? Thanks alot

[@fisktomte]

there is no oil in the engine? the crank shaft bearings look really dry, how does it get lubricated? really nice video by the way :)

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes the engine holds no oil. It's very normal in two stroke engines, the crankshaft bearings only get lubricated by the oil in the petrol. If you have gearbox oil in a two stroke engine, it's typical to lubricate the attached but separate gearbox. In these piaggio mopeds, the gearbox is split from the engine and located in the rearwheel, where it of course holds oil 🙂

[@fisktomte]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V thanks for reply, i just swapped bearings on crank shaft, but i cant get it to spin freely i think that my crankshaft might be bent, or is it possible that i have heated the engine block to much and it got damaged?? i use a heatgun just like you did in the video.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@fisktomte can be several different things. Are you testing without the seal mounted? Have you tried to hit it with a rubber hammer like shown in the video?

[@fisktomte]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V i got it figurer out, No Bent crank, i hade success after putting crank shaft in THE freezer, heating THE big block and THE dropping THE bearing inside, then taking crank shaft out THE freezer and dropping it in to THE block Side with THE bearing already mounted, and Bow it spins free

[@jonasb.6557]

Hello Carsten I was wondering, do I need to tighten the small housing at the top of the crank house case at a specific moment, because when I tighten it, it’s almost impossible to turn around the crankshaft. Thank you for your informative videos!

[@xX_Goldfisch_Xx]

Dankeschön

[@MundiMan]

Hallo weißt du zufällig wie man die Technik bei den Mofa zusammenschließen muss?

[@WesleySnyder]

Does the rubber seal on the crank shaft ever go bad and cause the engine to not start due to lack of suction on intake side. I have a piaggio clone engine " kenetic" and it's has good compression and spark. But will not start. Thank you for this great Video.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Yes it can go bad, but normally it would only cause a lean condition. It has to be very bad to cause a no start. Also check if the key is still there in the flywheel. It could be sheared off and then the spark comes at the wrong timing.

[@WesleySnyder]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V thank you carsten l, yes my keyway is intact i have removed the flywheel and the seal seems good maybe i have just flooded the crank case.

[@bjornpolman98]

Hey! Did you solve the problem? And So, how? Thanks alot

[@glecas]

Thank you for making this! Very good guide. I like that you not only tell how-to-do, but also how-NOT-to-do! Because it will save people from making common mistakes. You also mentioned the torque of the top to be 12 Nm. Do you also know the Nm torque of other bolts? Like say the crankcase bolts, the clutch, the pulley-"disc" or whatever it's called etc.... Is there a Nm torque table for this moped?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Thanks for your kind comment. The torque values are on page 65 of the original workshop manual, try to find it on google. Headnuts - 10-14 Nm Crankcase - 10-13 Nm Clutch or Vario - 20-25 Nm Rear Pulley - 13-33 Nm Rear Vario Pulley - 20-25 Nm

[@glecas]

Thank you! And nice work on your Ciao. By the way; I looked at your pictures on you page... and I have never seen the restrictions on the clutch and pulley that you had. Are those restrictions "danish" - or made for the danish market? I have worked on a few Ciao's in sweden, and only seen restrictions in the gas intake.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

I only know them from the danish models, we got all the good restrictions on our mopeds, snap of bolts, welded sprockets etc. :)

[@j.zingler6735]

Please scroll down on this site: piaggio-mofa-technik.de/forum/technische-daten/technische-daten Only in german but you can translate the most important things with guugle or something similar.

[@glecas]

Thank you very much! :-)

[@mrfourtysevenman]

do the points constantly make contact with the crankshaft or does it only touch it to open the gap on the points?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

I think when correctly adjusted, only when the lobe starts to rise. If they where in contact all the time, the points would open very early and could also open at the wrong time due to engine vibrations or worn crank bearings. But that's something i've never looked at, so i'm kinda guessing ;-)

[@isaacdudley4880]

Is that a special tool you used to get the flywheel off? Where can I get one?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@isaacdudley4880 search the internet for "vespa ciao flywheel puller"

[@charlestalavera3717]

Got 3 and the have some tape on the corners 2 green 1 black

[@82werk72]

Hej, har du egentlig nogen erfaringer med Polini motorblok med elektronisk tændning? Overvejer at samle en komplet polini motor.

[@Relaxtherapy-o3u]

Where do you find the Cylinder With the same size but made of aluminium?

[@TheHassoun9]

You are the best

[@kimmyrask7368]

Great video! I have a problem with the flywheel grinding the cable for the condensator. What am i doing wrong?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Tidy the wires until they have enough room for the spinning flywheel 😉

[@kimmyrask7368]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V sorry my bad, the damage is at the top of the condensator and there’s no way to put it any tighter against it.. might be that I’ve received a bad one that doesn’t fit..

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@kimmyrask7368 I've never seen this happen. I'd try another one, brand Effe. Or mount a external 330 nF MKP capacitor near the ignition coil, 250V or more is fine. Then just cut the capacitor down until it doesn't rub, and use it only to hold the feltpad to grease the cam.

[@anssilaitinen729]

Thanks for the great video. Can I test spark with ignition plug connected (/I did but no spark, so is there some grounding issues or what ever?) or should I use just open ended wire as you did?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Always test with just the wire, if you have a spark over 5-6 mm your ignition is ok. Then the error must be in the cap og plug. Yes the engine and external coil must have a good ground connection to each other. Hope this helps you.

[@anssilaitinen729]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V This is perfect, will do so. Thanks for the quick answer.

[@aminehassine6110]

Thank you

[@1Scharling]

God video. Mange gode fif til at splitte motoren af. Dog kunne jeg godt tænke mig du viste et godt tricks til at sætte krumtappen i motor blokken. Skal blokken varmes op så lejet der sidder fast på krumtappen smutter bedre i? eller er der et smart tricks. Men fedt du viser hvordan det laves. Tak. :-)

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Prøv og se den fra 24 minutter, der varmer jeg blokken og monterer den kolde krumtap :-)

[@highwayhumor]

When I step on my kickstarter on my vespa bravo it stops/jumps, I have think it might be the swing wheel being broken, it does not feel like its connected correctly to the engine like yours is on this video. Do you have any advise to what might be wrong?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

I haven't worked on the Kickstart model yet, i have one in stock but no experience yet.

[@davidinsky9949]

Is it a vespa or a bravo ?

[@fpcb750er]

Hello my friend, thank you for this great video. A question, what would cause a "weak" spark - one that can only jump 2-3mm, but not 6mm and definitely not 10mm? Same test as you have run, but the spark isn't jumping that distance. Thank you!

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Many things sadly. Start to measure all the things i show in the video, if a component is far of, replace it. Other than that, a small short to ground in the wiring or breaker points can give the same error.

[@fpcb750er]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate it. At least I'm on the right track, just going through everything. Many thanks from Cleveland, Ohio!

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@fpcb750er also check that the external coil has a good connection to ground. You can connect a wire from the coil ground to the engine case for testing.

[@kevinyz2591]

hello is there is a washer behind the bearing on the crankshaft on the side or there is no key

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

I'm not sure i understand what washer you mean? There's a washer between the crankshaft and the bearings on both sides. And a washer above the breaker points cam.

[@kevinyz2591]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V I'm french

[@kevinyz2591]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V thank you

[@kevinyz2591]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V instagram or facebook ? please

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@kevinyz2591 12v.dk

[@lucianolampi6249]

Encontre una en argentina andaba rara le pusieron cdi y platinos juntos ahahahah buen dato. Adjunta circuito electrico de encendido

[@juliejohansen4122]

Hej Carsten. Sikke en god gennemgang! Kan du huske hvor du har købt din “vaskebalje” henne? Jeg har ledt efter en af den størrelse noget tid, men har kun kunne finde de store kar. På forhånd tak

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Hej. Det er denne www.rustfribolte.dk/201-rensekar-12l-med-220v-pumpe.html?Rensekar+12L+med+220v+pumpe&from=kelkoo&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6t6ABhDMARIsAONIYyyziJx2MmVFUYA9SmHpd2FZAJ2t_br6RBvLE_LhlSfCk2WNXmm30fkaAsq7EALw_wcB

[@juliejohansen4122]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V super! Og, søreme om der ikke var 43 procent rabat

[@juliejohansen4122]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V er der noget opløsningsmiddel du har bedre erfaring med andet i det vaskekar? Eller bruger du bare vand med sæde?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@juliejohansen4122 jeg bruger biltemas koldaffedtning blandet 1:1 med vand. Det fungerer godt for mig. Har også forsøgt med nogle industri affedtnings sæber fortyndet efter forskrifterne, men det virkede ikke lige så godt.

[@juliejohansen4122]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V okay, super! Tak for svaret

[@charlestalavera3717]

I got a piaggio bravo 1977 my motor got 3 coil inside the motor you know what is the ignition coil from the 3 the have?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

I'll guess it's a model with an extra coil for flasher/indicators. The upper is the ignition coil, lower lights and to the right for at indicators.

[@charlestalavera3717]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V Hey buddy one more question that cable from the ignition coil inside the motor go direct to the coil outside

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@charlestalavera3717 yes.

[@charlestalavera3717]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V Thank you buddy i just learning about this moped i found this moped the parts it was everywhere i put it together complete i got it for a while try to put it running aprecciate you help buddy

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

@@charlestalavera3717 I'm happy to help :-)

[@robrobster9148]

Hello, approx. how many miles can an original engine, cylinder and piston go? Ofcourse with maintenance. Thanks.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

I would guess around 30.000 km, at that point I've seen the wear on the cylinder kit to be over the max. specs. But many factors have a play here. All the worn parts are easy/cheap to replace.

[@robrobster9148]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V Okay. Thank you. I read someone mentioned an original Piaggio engine, cylinder and piston can go as far as a 100.000 km

[@stunttestarn]

When i did a rebuild on my Piaggio Ciao engine i didn't thought it was a difference between the two bearings so i just mounted them anyhow. And when i mounted my two engine blocks the crankshaft didn't turn around as smoothly as before. Do you think the cause can be the bearings that is on wrong positions? Is there anything else that can turn bad by having it like this?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

The reason that your crank didn't turn as smoothly is not caused by the eventually misplaced bearings. The extra clearence is between the balls and inner/outer ring, probably to accommodate for the extra heat the ignition makes. I think the reason is that the bearings are under tension, that happens easily in this kind of engine where you mount it hot/cold. If you run it like that, it can shorten the bearing life alot! You can reheat around the bearing seats on the outside, and give the engine case some rubber-hammer hits like i show in the video, that normally helps with the tension.

[@borreltjuh83]

I need that clip to fasten the cooling shield onto the top of the cilinder; do you happen to know where I can get one? Can't find them anywhere, thanks in advance!

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Normally i buy it at JMPB, but can't find it on their homepage right now :-/

[@kristofferjacobsen1555]

Hej igen der er nu gnist på min bravo men når vi tjekker tændrøret er det tørt. Nogle ideer til Hva vi kan gøre?

[@kristofferjacobsen1555]

Det er en helt ny 16/16 karburator så alt burde fungere men tændrøret er bare ikk vådt

[@davidbirkemose]

kan original crankshaft fra 25-30 km/t ciao fra 93 holde til malossi/polini cylinder kit?... du nævner på et tidspunkt de originale dele er ret holdbare... men det var vist mest si og bravo...

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Hej, ja den er lige så stærk som de andre originale piaggio modeller. Hvis den ellers er i god stand. Husk at tilpasse styretiderne, det kan du se i den anden video jeg har lavet om denne motor.

[@davidbirkemose]

@@CarstenLorenzen12V det simpelthen det sjoveste jeg har kastet mig ud i flere år ha! - 1000 tak for perfekt instruktions video. Har downloaded det skema ift.styretider du har lagt ud i .pdf på 12v.dk men er ikk´ nået dertil. - Blot hygge og hobby no stress, godt din video nærmest er idiotsikker hahaha...

[@j.zingler6735]

Hallo, Danke für das Video. Welche Lager benutzt Du? Einmal C3 und 1x C4?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

C3 in der Zündungsseite und normal in der anderen, also "CN" (steht nichts drauf bei normal Lagerluft).

[@johanmagnusson2203]

Hello again MR Lorenzen. I am considering buying a new crankshaft. The bearing at the rod end is making a little noise when I am turning the rod. It feels smooth however. Which aftermarket crankshaft would you recommend?

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Hello. My favorite is Mazzucchelli, they make both 10 and 12 mm wristpin models, and both with an original cutout and a version with enlarged racing inlet timings.