Toyota "New Year's" Time Machine...STALLS when HOT? (Part 2 - 1987 MR2)

[@kevinshasteen5682]

I began my wrenching on 80's toyota, datsuns and internationals; good ole carburetor days - hated those days now that we have OBD2. Any tech back in the 80's worth their salt always had a known good coil in their toolbox. Coils and other temp sensitive moduals as well as sensors would work fine when they were cool; get a little heat in them and they'd quit. In part one - my first instinct would've been to swap the coil for a known good one in my tool box.., but we arent in the 80's anymore. Also, hanging over your head is that ECM with rusty screws we cant open up. Looking forward to part 3. BTW, I remember my buddy's mom bought one of those Turbo MR2's, it was the boxy squared model just like your working on. Yea I got to drive it; very fun car Edit: the 80's stuff is 25/30+ years old now - anythings possible

[@craigstubbs1991]

I'm old school. We had symptoms like this when the coil was bad. Just because the coil gets the signal doesn't mean it makes a spark. Quite common on old motorcycles as well which is why I changed the ignition system on my 1982 Honda Magna and installed Coil On Plug's. Stock coil required 8ms to saturate, COP's only need 2ms (with a single trigger I had to set mine to 2.5ms).

[@mikefoehr235]

That is what I thot. When a coil gets hot they act stupid. Seen that on snowmachines years ago.

[@seagullsbtn]

I'm with you on the coil being bad. These had a single coil back then..... so cheap, barely worth diagnostics

[@terryburke2587]

I have also found coils that failed when hot.

[@CrimeVid]

Has it got the right type of coil on it ? if I remember right there were two types of coil, a standard coil and a high energy coil

[@davidsicca2352]

I had an old VW with a similar problem. A faulty coil was the culprit.

[@michaelcox2648]

Hi Ivan. Needless to say I love your videos. Please don't stop doing them . I watch them every single day without fail. I'm an electrical engineer and seriously I find all your videos fascinating I cant stop watching them. Massive massive massive shout out to you. Some who actually knows what he's doing. There's so many fake technicians out there that that they can just scan your car and take the money. I had one guy tell me my 02 sensor was bad because it was oscillating between 0.2 and 0.8. Told him straight away that was normal and how they worked. Still payed the crook. 🤣 turned I had a lean condition due to egr channels clogged. Done lots of research and did it myself. Quick test was to unplug the egr valve to confirm it was on the egr system and problem found. Took the intake off and sure enough channels were completely clogged. Please don't ever stop sharing your knowledge with us. It so so so appreciated. Lots of love to you and family. P.s keep exposing those amateurs that go around with a scan tool. Regards: Michael C .

[@OzFrog48Z]

There is an old KZbin video by Scanner Danner that explains the testing and operation of Toyota ignitor circuit. It's titled How to test an ignitor on a Toyota Lexus. The car they use is a 1991. It explains which circuits are pull up or pull down. It's a good refresher when one of these oldies comes in. And it's only 12 minutes long.

[@2nickles647]

The fuel cut switch is used to shut off the fuel pump when the flapper is closed. During the crank sequence. The flapper will slightly come open to energize the fuel pump. Providing you have spark. The engine should start. My brother 79 pick up truck was having a similar issue. He hauled the truck to my shade tree shop I found 2 issues. The first was the fuel pump needed replacement. I replaced the fuel pump. I tried jumping the fuel pump and no start. Found green crustiest and bad wires. I repaired them. Fuel pump started by jumping the terminals at the obd1 test. Next I cranked. Still no start. But I did have spark. As you are doing I traced the wiring. I was not getting a complete circuit until I held the flapper open slightly. She started and stalled. I took the top cover off and found the flapper was sticking bad. I cleaned the housing assembly. Checked the wires again. And cleaned the switch contacts. Button it up and she started. I warmed the truck up and shut it down and starts about 4 times. That's what I found.. I also ran the codes firsty. I did get codes for the fuel and mass air flow sensor. I did the powers and grounds dance too. I didn't have my new scope at the moment. Because of you. That's how I trouble shooting. Thank you for teaching diss ole man something new

[@lvsqcsl]

I have a sneaky feeling you have already repaired this car. I would check for a vacuum leak among the hoses. GREAT VIDEO!

[@paulgilliland2992]

Off course the car is fixed . Do you think he’d make us suffer for a minor minor issue.

[@jamiegilliam518]

Yea it's fix , if he couldn't figure it out he be on the phone to Alfonzo to find out what's wrong with it

[@lvsqcsl]

@@jamiegilliam518Not Alphonzo, Defazio. Keith Defazio.

[@lvsqcsl]

@@paulgilliland2992 No, I don't. He's worse that the producers of "Dallas" when Larry Hagman's character J.R. Ewing got shot and they made us wait all summer to find out who did it. BTW I figured out it was Kristin before watching the show in the fall of 1980.

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

Very weird, Ivan! If it's related to temperature, maybe something electrical degrades with it (coil or something in the control circuitry). Sometimes a freezing spray can pinpoint which module or component reacts to cooling.

[@randy1ization]

its not running long enough to get to OT.. something is dropping out due to corrosion or out of calibration.

[@macdaddyns]

I Had a '79 Fiat Spider that would run great for 20 to 30 mins when cold, as soon as it got hot it would only run WOT. If I let it stall it wouldn't relight until cool. I figured it was the electronic ignition module so I swapped to a twin breaker point distributor and loved the car after. My guess is that the transistor or the pickup in the distributor broke down with heat.

[@billspeck5593]

I had a 91 Dodge Dynasty that would do the same thing. It left me stranded along the freeway many times. After cooling down, it would start and run. It was the cam sensor pickup. The circuit board had a tiny crack and when it warmed up it would separate the circuitry.

[@scottmagoch5367]

Hey Ivan, these can be a pain. Back in the 80's if we thought there was a heat induced issue we would cool off ignition parts...modules,sensors,ignitors,coils with a can of a/c refrigerant and had real good luck finding the culprit. Just a thought. Happy and Healthy New Year!!🎉🎉

[@jamesspash5561]

Agreed. Back in the day, the old GM HEI module would fail when it got hot. We did the same. Popped the cap, shot some freon on it, and the car would start.

[@johnbragg2014]

@@jamesspash5561 I remember heat sink goop was needed under that module.

[@CarlWilliams-u3y]

There's freeze mist from electronic part stores. It's an aresol can. It freezes parts to freezing. It's good for modules etc.

[@michaelcox2648]

Hi Ivan. Needless to say I love your videos. Please don't stop doing them . I watch them every single day without fail.

[@teekay_1]

I'm going to agree with few of the posters saying you need to take apart the ECU.and find out if those "green crusties" are on the board. The fact that you saw them on the pins (and a little inside the ECU) tells me the trunk/engine pay was leaking for quite some time. The problem is if the ECU is bad, it may be a challenge to find a working one. It may even be (again as someone else mentioned) bad electrolytic caps on these boards after all these decades.

[@Sandmansa]

This one is really getting good. Whatever the issue is, it seems like a spark management electrical problem. I'd like to check the coil to make sure it's putting out enough voltage and not overheating. Other than that, could be igniter, distributer or ecu. Hard to say at this point. More testing is required.

[@JOHNSUE28]

Basics...Timing, Induction needs checked for vacuum leaks and I would looked at Ignition Coil out[put and Secondary. Inspect plugs for proper Gap. All Should of been done before that scope came out. Glad you verified Fuel Pressure. I would also revisit that EGR.

[@TheDieselmb]

It needs an igniter we changed them all the time back in the day.they were very common to fail

[@josholsen6985]

Most of my experience is with the early 90s Suzuki TBI. There was a “don’t touch” screw that set the baseline idle air. If you were lucky, you could see where the factory paint was to reset it. If you were unlucky, you’d have to find a feeler gauge long enough to gap the throttle stop to spec. It would add air with IAC (warm) or a wax pellet (cold). The air bypassed the throttle blade thru passages in the throttle body. The blade provided enough room for fuel to get around. In some cases, the pellet had to be adjusted to keep it from blipping the idle. Bottom line, idle was very mechanical. I’m getting those vibes from this case.

[@richb419]

Hi Ivan, you have proven that the problem is temperature related, I would at least take the ECU and throw it in a freezer and see if anything changes, run for a bit if ok and add heat. sometimes freeze spray and a heat gun are your best friends. Rich

[@aly369]

Ooooo as an electronics guy I must say this one has me interested, I would go back to basics. Get a spark tester inline with a plug and a test light on one of the injectors, wind the air bypass fully open so you can get it to idle fast whilst diagnosing, then slowly shut it and see whats going on. My huntch says either dizzy pickup, ECU or ignition component. Given the fact under a rev it runs fine.

[@randy1ization]

it does not run fine under revs.. did you see the exhaust pipes?

[@aly369]

@@randy1ization I didn't no. Were they glowing red I assume?

[@walkertonheights]

Of course the car is already fixed, right? But where you are in the videos, I would. - Check for spark using a high tension lead clip on probe and oscilloscope. - spray fuel into the intake manifold. you need to be sure it really is getting gas. - check out the flapper air flow monitor to be sure it is not sticky. Love your videos. Especially the xmas and new years specials.

[@ivanolsen7966]

has anyone seen the condition of the spark plugs ?

[@RussellBooth1977]

As I mentioned before in my experience it has been an ignition coil problem (lack of spark) in a Nissan RB30E powered Holden VL Commodore & in the 4 litre 6 cylinder Ford EL Falcon it was high resistance in the ignition circuit after the ignition switch due to a faulty engine immobilizer which caused that issue !

[@chrisnewbold9876]

I had an idle problem on a VW Scirroco that used K jetronic where there was a similar flap plate in the air volume unit. In that case it was critical to have an air gap round the plate for the idle. This gap was set with a feeler gauge, and the car would stall if the gap closed up or there was dirt build up.

[@stevec5657]

I'd use the tiniest boroscope you have and try to peek inside the computer. Corrosion and/or cracked solder joints would be a possible guess.

[@davidfleishman2275]

Easy do is to take the computer out.Put it in a freezer for 1/2 hour or so.Will the engine run with a cold computer?

[@blueribb99]

@@davidfleishman2275 He could use a large zip-lock bag and drop the computer in a bucket of ice in the trunk.

[@SHSPVR]

That's kind of what I'm thinking maybe he really needs to get inside the ECU just to be sure that there isn't anything wrong with it also might not be a bad idea to disassemble the mess airflow sensor Inspector too.

[@davidfleishman2275]

You are correct.@@SHSPVR

[@TheShop10]

Closing in on 200K subscribers Ivan! Congratulations. Best diagnostic channel on KZbin.

[@Tomyk10101]

Hello Ivan, I really enjoy watching your channel, I noticed in the video that there is an aftermarket looking throttle body gasket, Just a thought but is it possible that it is blocking the idle air passage. (might be worth looking at).

[@garyrobinson8991]

Love the thought process behind the diagnostics ! Happy New Year !

[@luckyguy600]

she sure is running sweet now ... lol This is another fine mess you got us into Stanley :)

[@sk8shackcrew]

track down that distributor fault code you first found when you did the Blinky Blinky light, That is where I would start

[@reneneron2971]

Yep. This engine does not use a traditional crank position sensor: all timing signals (fuel, ignition) come from the distributor. The ECU can advance the ignition timing using these signals and also switches from semi-sequential injector firing (at low rpm, firing the injectors in pairs) to batch at higher rpm. Ivan illustrated this in the video…the engine will still run fine under batch mode.

[@petepeabody8905]

I can feel your frustration and everlasting determination

[@electron-1979]

Ivan, please add links to previous vids relating to the "current topic" in the description 🙏 Sometimes I don't think I'm interested in episode 1, but episode 2 or 3 piques my interest and I want to start at the start 🤯

[@jimforsyth2.]

It's all wasted effort is you don't check the basic stuff first. Love ya just saying. Your on of my go to guys . I respect your work

[@michaelmanke8656]

I love those challenges! (Old man without diagnostic-tools, only a little hands-on-experience). 3 hours of diagnostic are way more expensive, than a couple of new parts - so load parts cannon. Because labor was so expensive, this is, what i always did. 1. If he stalls only, when warm: replace all temperatur-sensors, you can find. 2. but before that: open the black cover of the mass- or amount-air-sensor-flap-device. There is a runner and a ladder track on it. The ladder track is often worn and scratched. If this is the case, or if the slider no longer exerts enough pressure on the track, then bend the slider (finger) or replace the entire component. In the 90s, this also cost over 500 german marks from Bosch. 35 years ago! Very expensive! 3. If it still stalls: Replace the crankshaft sensor and, if present, also the camshaft sensor. 4. Finally, there is the relais for the petrol pump. 5. Replace coil plus all wires plus distributor, if available. 6. Scratch all ground-cables you can find. From engine to chassis.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

And what would you tell the customer when the parts cannon runs out of ammo? 😉

[@bobhudson6659]

No problem. Give Ivan your BSB and acct details so he can all the parts to you.

[@anonymuswere]

it's getting hard to fire the 80's/90's parts canon...because the parts canon needs the parts cannon fired at IT! there's very little "ammo" anyways; this is a "disposable" era vehicle.

[@gregwarren8583]

What was called a MAF is really a Vane Air Meter.

[@annepoynter6600]

Ivan ,you have the patience of a saint, and the skills of a surgeon. I'm on the edge of MY seat to see the cause of this problem thanks for great vidios .happy new year from John in UK

[@garysgarage2118]

Very interesting for sure. I would check compression via leak down test. And I would also check the barn door Mass air flow. Could be dirty and sticking.

[@simonjones7785]

Ivan your amazing your understanding of these operaing system is truely amazing

[@greghanlon2235]

I worked in a San Diego service station back off the I5 back in 1980s. Toyota ignitors back then shorted out out in the heat of stop n go traffic, , were towed in, cooled down and then worked again. Check ignitor/coil assembly resistance.

[@jgeorges3061]

Ivan, AWESOME approach buy using the scope hope part three will be the end of this problem by fixing the car.

[@kyleondmz]

I have come across a few of these give issues with the coil when hot, have also had a similar problem to this and it was a faulty idle control valve. Car would run fine when cold (higher rpm) but when warm it would stall out unless you held throttle open slightly

[@paulforbes8551]

I had an 89 isuzu imark with the duel overhead cams back in the day. Had exact same issue. The only way I could get it to restart was to unplug 1 plug wire & crank engine. After it started, I had to reconnect the plug wire while the engine was running. Anytime I had someone in the car and it would stall, it was quite the experience for them. Never figured out the problem.

[@larryjimenez5147]

I would start old school as back when.. vacuum reading remember this was before OBD1 when I worked on them in my shop,they were always fixed , no stae of the art PICO scopes

[@phill3144]

For shits n giggles, if it is a bad coil. If you try it at night and get someone to crank for you or put an switch on the exciter so you can crank it from the engine bay. Look at the coils in the dark whilst its running / cutting out, any cracks in the coil housing will visible if spark is being lost as will flash because of the high voltage, found a couple of bad coils this way back in the day.

[@randyr.parker2698]

OK, let's think about this, you said in the first video that he drove it what, 4 or 6 hrs to get there and it runs fine at a high RPM, but, running slightly rich (according to the tailpipe suet) To me right now it seems like a vacuum leak of some kind, but then why does it idle fine till it warms up, unless something in the computer isn't controlling, as simple as it (the computer) is. Maybe you better look into a different wiring diagram since this one doesn't seem to be the one for this car? Does this computer control any of the vacuum solenoids? 🤔 A real head scratcher for sure.

[@matthewmcmaster2731]

Could it be possible that the intake itself has a leak? If the intake and engine block are dissimilar metals once the engine warms up the sealing surface between the two could be opening up slightly and letting in unmetered air.

[@jochcaso9998]

Ne+ and Ne- are the signals for Crank position and G+ and G- for sync, like a cam sensor, both inductive sensors, in my opinion is vacuum related like a temp activated vacuum switch

[@JoelAutomotiveInaction]

Nice video and techniques, looks like you need a 8 channel scope now or for yesterday with the amounts of diagnostic you do you can kill many birds in one shout ( inputs and out puts) you will not regrests , I have 2 8 channel scopes usb auto scopoe 4 and pico scope 8 channel , what a diference in diagnostic. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@montefiveforty1]

i have a customer with a 91 turbo engine and can remember it having a problem back in the day with the mass air door sticking.I did the timing belt recently on it and yeah not fun.

[@yipchitaywonga]

Just went through this on a 92 mr2, found two leaking capacitors in the ecu, ran smooth as butter after replacing them.

[@yipchitaywonga]

Try plugging a timing light, do you lose the flashes?

[@Poshpanda-09]

-When is the car finished? -In the end if this episode. "Fast n'loud" (I bought a scrap throttle/Maf to a BMW. Was full of rust. Money back)

[@stephensklein6952]

I really want to see the condition of the ECM board. You saw corrosion on the connectors already.

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

I would look at the IAC and make sure it’s not shutting down too much. Thanks!

[@renejensen5656]

That is a real headage, since the fuel and pulses look ok. Perhaps the modul for ignition goes out when its warm, try to cool it down with some coolingspray. Also on various forums they are writing about bad caps in the ECU, it could be on the inputside of the ECU. You can try the cooling metode on this also. There are also one that got a defektive EGR, but as remember you have checked this in part 1, he also found a crack in the cobberline to the EGR. Realy hope you nail this, the MR2 are a funny car to drive.

[@eatsinabeat]

I remember an issue very similar with a Toyota many years ago, it turned out to be the immobiliser shutting the engine down after starting up, especially when warm.

[@jamesspash5561]

If I remember correctly, those old style fuel injection systems, all timing events were via the distributor pick up. I'd do as Craigstubbs1991 suggested and try cooling off ignition components one by one. Pickup coil, modules, coil on down the line until you possibly find it. Good luck. You'll find it.

[@truracer20]

First I would check for adequate vacuum and vacuum leaks. Then I would check the function of the BMVS's, electrically and mechanically. Then check the intake volume changing device.

[@redtopberries]

Im curious what the airflow meter is reporting. Could it be over reporting? This would explain why it runs fine when cold but wont hold a hot idle.

[@brendonlind]

It really seems like you are getting everything signal wise you need. I wonder if it is a failed open EGR and you are not seeing the symptom as much when it is getting warming up due to the fast idle or revved up due to the increased air volume. It does sound like its running out of fuel but it sounds similar choking on EGR exhaust.

[@ManCaveMachining]

I'm old school & would look at a spark plug or two after it stalls. Easy way to confirm rich or lean.

[@Michael-yi4mc]

Ivan is checking the ignition system. He is scoping the primary ignition system that feeds the secondary ignition system.

[@Heylo7]

I think I have figured out the fuel pump fuel pressure sensor issue. One of the quick release connector missing line to rught rear top of fuel filter missing straight hose line with the quick release connector. And I still have to change the high pressure fuel rail pressure sensor. On the 07: Audi Q7 V6 BHK Engine

[@sblagg527]

My guess is distributor related. You've already shown that the spark stops before everything else. Pop off that distributor cap and have a look. Rotor broken/ dirty? Points gap (or if electronic bad wire inside?) Something is conducting fine when cold but not when hot. I had a similar problem with my 69 bug, where the coil windings went bad, BUT the car ran fine when cold, and if you did a resistance check on the windings when cold they measured fine, but after it warmed up it would always cut out. Anyway the distributor is an easy check and follows the only thing I think you've measured so far that seems a bit "off" (spark timing when warm.)

[@VashthStampeede]

First, I'd put that throttle screw back to where you found it. It barely ran at all after you backed it out. Then I'd scope coil negative to see when the grounding pulses stopped; before or after rpm began to drop. Correlate the amplitude of reluctor signal with the end of grounding pulse to coil negative. The reluctor signal is your cam sensor in older cars. Monitor the crank sensor during this.

[@febbral]

Ivan, since it appears to be a warmup or heat problem, if you can get some freeze spray and cool igniter module to see if engine keeps on running while also monitoring pulses to see that they stay up and not drop out.

[@ubeenlookingforthis]

Just sett'n here on the stoop waiting for the finale, ? You've had all night, where is our conclusion? (LOL)

[@jptrainor]

This one sat in a barn for years. The last one sat in a field for years. Pattern developing here?

[@CarlWilliams-u3y]

Check the misfires with the engine hot. Erase the codes first. The coolant temperature sensor can be reading too hot causing it to stall. Check the history codes and codes after it's hot. Check power balance when it's hot.

[@nickolaswilliams935]

If it’s getting fuel and spark the only variable left is air. My guess is some thermostatic switch allowing too much air into the engine when warm causing an overly weak mixture leading to a stall. Do you have a stand alone wideband you can sub in place of the factory sensor? I’d be willing to bet if you monitor AFR’s, you’ll see it going way lean during the stall event despite having steady inj PW.

[@Bias_Prineus]

There is also the mechanical and timing variable

[@lonwillis783]

Ivan Happy New Year I had a Nissan that would shut off after getting warm and when testing the distributor it didn't shut off. Nissan had different metals the plug had brass and the distributor had steel. If I left a nail in the connector it never shut down again.

[@ws2664]

I think that extra wire is for the tach, I don't recall seeing one on your wiring diagram.

[@mrblonde2013]

Interesting, so if it is ignition related, it narrows it down to ckp sensor, ignition module, coil, or pcm or wiring. i be inclined to monitor b+, ground and igntion module in/outputs to get some direction. Time for an 8 channel pico?😊😊😊 Actually, your snapon has another 4 channels🤔🤔🤔...thanks Ivan.

[@DaveyHo69]

Found this --> "There are two coolant temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECM. One is by the water intake under the distributor, and the other sits on the pipe that's connected with a short stub of hose behind the water pump. It's very hard to see - sits hidden under the intake."

[@brianw8963]

Interesting for sure. Almost acting like an old GM ignition module failure or worn bearings in the distributor shaft. That’s all I got! 👍👍🇺🇸

[@dougyoung3896]

Had these same symptoms with a couple of my GMS when they got hot back in the day and the ignition module was definately the fix !

[@zaneclone]

The crank sensor may give issues when warm... Apparently there's an earth wire nearby which can cause issues...

[@janpur1417]

The timing is taken by the distributor. My 4AFE does not have cam or crank sensor and it is EFI.

[@luckyguy600]

I wait with 'baited breath' for your prognosis Dr.

[@killer1963daddy]

Loving the content, transplanting a 92 4runner drive train into a 56 willys truck, ran before swap not after...maf needed to run? Cool back at it!

[@reneneron2971]

Ivan, start with the basics…is there a vacuum leak? I don’t think it is getting hot enough to change anything OTHER than the throttle body falling off the fast idle circuit (ran fine when running under fast idle). Is the car simply stalling once the fast idle circuit is bypassed? I did not hear the car idling fast today at all, yet the temperature gauge was still cold. While it is possible the ignitor is bad, they are very reliable…and the car seemed to run fine at higher idle in video number 1 until it tried to idle normally.

[@reneneron2971]

The factory service manual (BGB) is available online for free; the diagnostics are laid out step by step.

[@jonathanlevoir4998]

I would say you got to get in that ECU, you have shown us many times heat related issues with ECU’s. The outside looks bad and the connections where green.

[@billi996]

I would say it’s a fuel mixture problem, try sampling the exhaust gases, that might point to the mass air flow meter, good luck

[@jeffreyrozelle6941]

A lot of times those old cars needed a little more tension on the air flow meter spring to bring it alive again and help the fuel pump to run. Never seen an igniter be intermittent with no signal.

[@gazmendhajra1957]

Check the intake runner or the solenoid ,if stuck open would lean out the mixture cousing a stall thanks for sharing.

[@justdriving2112]

i dont know if someone said it already with 300 + comments but looking at at mass airflow, or something to do with the idle circuit in the air intake system. my experience is with late 80-90 gm obd 1 systems and the idle air control would freeze from the egr going bad. Ive worked on those cars and the vacuum systems are a nightmare. good luck

[@additudeobx]

One of the techniques I use in electronics troubleshooting and repair for hot and cold symptoms is "Freeze Spray" and a "Heat Gun". It can save a lot of time.

[@robertheim352]

Yes, that is good advice when the symptom has one associated variable. It appears that the engine runs at higher RPM regardless of temperature. When Ivan stated it cold the controller kept the RPM above 1500.

[@xxl531]

There is a metal cube with 2 fuellines ging to it , with the lightblue connector there is a bi-metal in it that can create this symptons

[@wino99999]

Haven't seen all the basics covered off yet. There are 5 things needed to get a car running. Fuel, air, compression, spark and timing. Not seeing any compression info with respect to timing, and although fuel rail pressure is ok, is fuel reaching cylinders...... I would also put a smoker on those vacuum hoses!

[@davidfrancis20]

Im also thinking coil breaking down or possibly ecu try blowing cold air over coil and see if it improves and also same for the ecu best of luck

[@calholli]

It's the MAF .. you're welcome. :)

[@davidkeith8687]

Oh goodie I get my Ivan drug before I go to bed…lol. Can’t stop watching you….my News Day is bulk watching all your videos..:-)

[@markg7666]

Didn't the old Japan cars have a thermo valve on the throttle body controlled by coolant temp?, I think when that valve got stuck the car stalled when hot, I think I remember many people by passing it, not sure if will apply for the Mr2.

[@jdesaavedra0432]

I worked on a tractor with a coil breaking down under themal stress. It ran horribly no matter at idle or full power because the coil arced internally when heated. It did not follow this pattern. Could still be a coil breaking down and losing spark output.

[@geoffmolyneux9173]

Adjust throttle stop for higher idle. Check for vacuum leaks. Spray oil around intake, hoses, etc. attempt to manually spray in some fuel into throttle butterfly valve. Put an op-amp on the g signal to boost the 2 volt signal to 7 volts.

[@herrkiwi3110]

I should have added some Toyota ECU's of that era were bad for loosing there 5v ref circuit due to dry solder joints.

[@mrjsv4935]

This remindes me from my old 1990 Mazda 323 (carb engine) when the ignitor module inside distributor failed, started and ran fine when cold, but was stalling when it warmed up, and eventually refused to start at all, until it was cooled down again. Replacement unit failed quickly too. I think root cause was rusted ground wire between transmission case and body, because when I found and fixed it, radio started working as well. For some time it was giving just static sound :D Though the radio had failed, but the almost completely rusted ground wire seemed to be the cause. It was difficult to find, because the wire still showed continuity with multimeter, but I guess it was still too weak to let enough current through, definetely it was very rusty, just couple of wire strands still connected. This Toyota seems to have rust as well, so perhaps would be good idea to check ground wires and grounding points in the body? Maybe also the computer is partially faulty, or something equivalent to the ignitor module has failed?

[@deniscanaya]

If you have checked all items electrical ? (I.E: Faulty relays or whatever else ) then I would check if the ecu has never been refurbished on this car. I would highly encourage you to have it checked out if not ( or try and replace with another one ) . I have repaired a couple of these E.C.U's with these fault's and they can give you the run around.

[@dannyhawkins7229]

I'd check compression. You could have a tight valve or valves. Easy enough to check.

[@dannyhawkins7229]

Also, spray starter fluid into the intake when it's stalling to see if it perks up.

[@truhntrz3408]

Ivan, if you have a toyota obd1 22pin to 16 pin an use the old school SO verus. Just for the heck of it, you might see some engine data? Thanks for all your videos. They have helped me a ton! 😊

[@baxrok2.]

Crank sensor. Thanks Ivan!

[@brucherrin8947]

I had the analog to digital converter chip in the pcm cause a similar issue on an older Toyota Camry ... Dropping ignition when hot ... The pickup in the dist is analog signal converted to digital for the igniter

[@ferrumignis]

Just a thought, the 4AGE engines use shims to set the valve clearances. If the clearances have closed up you could be losing compression as the engine gets hot.

[@DaveyHo69]

On older Gold Wings, with CV carbs, ppl who grannied them would build up SO much carbon in combustion chamber, the vac signal would be so low as to not pull the slides up when the butterflies opened. Cure was to feed in WATER thru the carb sync bosses, the bikes would smoke like crazy & stink like the road tar crew laying pavement. Took at least a half hr of water ingestion to stop the smoke. Bikes were back to running normal after de-carboning the combustion chambers...

[@simonilett998]

Check the throttle butterfly is slightly open in idle position, thinking a lack of air at idle, and also I think you mentioned the customer had 'played' with throttle stop settings, or simply create a vacuum leak and see if it will stay running. There should be a spec in the manual to measure the throttle plate to throttle body gap with a specific size drill bit placed in the throttle bore, to set the idle position baseline, then the tps is adjusted for idle switch position after that. Final hot idle adjustment then done via the throttle body bypass screw. Also, check the AAV is working correctly, some are supposed to maintain a small amount of bypass once the engine is warm, they can clog up or not allow enough flow. The AAV has an electrically heated bi-metalic element, and the same element is also affected by engine temp, so there's also the possibility it was stuck open, customer played with idle screw, turned it down due to high idle issues, and now the AAV has potentially free'd up and started working, now there's not enough or too much air at idle, so the throttle butterfly may just need adjusting back open or closed to the correct setting.🤷‍♂️👍

[@zochpeter]

Leaked capacitors in that DENSO ecu was my bet #1 as soon as I saw the 1st video

[@jeffreysmith2223]

Great video, I'd check spacing on the pickup for engine speed, is the gap changing during the warmup period? Steve's comment on the engine computer is also a good idea, is the sensitivity of the RPM input changing with heat, ie warmup?