Wow, congrats! 👏 This is the most comprehensive installation instructions! It's impressive, well done! 🙌😎
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Glad you think so!
@AlexStundzia3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for releasing this Mihai. Currently in the process of building one to make the occasional clog less annoying. Really impressive work!!! Docs are great, videos are great, models are amazing. Thanks again!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Working on new version with a few improvements, but will take some timw to test.
@wforider47862 жыл бұрын
This is how all tutorial videos should be done Bravo 👏 the level of detailed description is amazing thanks again for all you do for this community!!!!
@onecarwood2 жыл бұрын
How have I not found this channel sooner? Awesome
@holyindian3 жыл бұрын
I am waiting for all my parts to arrive, I have ordered some from UK's amazon store as well to be delivered to the US, as they were out of stock. Hopefully within 3 weeks i should have my pitstop setup completed, and in the mean time I get to learn on things to improve from other members who have already set this up.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Cool plan, I'm also looking for ways to improve it and for that I need honest feedback from people using it. Do you know what was out of stock in the US? Perhaps I can find some replacements so people don't need to wait that long for shipping.
@dustinmeier97532 жыл бұрын
I'm just gonna hit like and save this to my playlist to watch later. This design is brilliant, but I'm half way through my MicroSwiss Direct Drive installation on my Ender 3 Pro, but I will be coming back to this and hopefully there will be a future model PitStop to complement this Direct Drive setup. 😉
@nicooolai3 жыл бұрын
OMG, I have the same wire stripper! Incredible instructions. Very well done, like everything you've put up :)
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Cool coincidence. Thank you!
@Chrisknot943 жыл бұрын
Impressive, highly integrated design!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Glad you like it!
@FragAttack233 жыл бұрын
what an awesome instruction video! enjoyed every minute of it. THANK YOU! Edit: I needed to add a 3 mm brim with 10 skirt height to the bigger parts so they didnt warp with PC Blend as I dont have an enclosure. After that, all parts printed smoothely and awesome :-D
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Cool, I was wondering if the video was too unnecessarily long. Good tip on the brim, I'll add a note for the printed parts.
@LuisGarciaportillo3 жыл бұрын
Can't wait to install... But work is getting in the way. Maybe I'll call in sick...
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
I know... there will be time. Have an awesome day!
@bpwichur3 жыл бұрын
Pit Stop 1.1 and Modified X axis printed. Bear disassembled. Time to start. Wish me luck ;)
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Best of luck! Let me know if you encounter any issues.
@bpwichur3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns Only ones cause by me. I need to reprint few parts. Dial in all settings, start printing and we will see :) I like to print fast so it will be tested in many ways. I'm generally happy with fixes to many issues it provides, installation experience and uncommon looks. It was quite difficult to print in terms of details and dimensional accuracy, but that is also on me. I think in "recommended new PitStop\MK3S\bear frame on-MMU2S\stock V6 hotend" a "belt lock.stl" file is missing (noticed just after send survey reply) Quick access by magnets is a blessing and I like the cool draft it produces :) Great job, thanks for your effort and lots of work you had to put into it!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Cool! Thanks for pointing out the missing file; I just added it back. I was worried this would happen with all the folders :) Have fun printing!
@Twisted-wizard3 жыл бұрын
Love the design looking for something similar for the Anycubic chiron
@billyjoe33093 жыл бұрын
A 3 year old baby can assemble this with such a great video!
@victorquesada24253 жыл бұрын
Hi! I have just assembled my pitstop since the easy hotend access hyped me. It's still too early to make a review of it, but I can already tell you a couple of things that may help: 1- When the front cable management begins it would be helpful to tell the correct order of the cables. I passed the extruder motor cable the last and I had to remove all of them. 2- The pitstop extruder v1.1 for the dragon hotend and stock frame has a maximum printing height of a few less of 200mm if using the mmu2s.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the update. Indeed, there are some shortcomings I couldn't easily fix with this design. I'm working on a new one, but will take a while to finish.
@AdamKueflef10 ай бұрын
I'm doing this upgrade for a local high school to allow for easier servicing and maintenance.
@guytas2 жыл бұрын
Really impressed... you beat me.... I wanted to make this but decided to see if someone else already made this before doing it. Tada.... Pitstop. So, so far I printed all parts in PC and it went very well. But what is the difference between the classic and experimental Bondtech idler door? Just waiting for all the parts to arrive to complete this. Thanks again. It’s fabulous. I’ll fill the form when completed. UPDATE: ok I received everything and built it. Actually, I had to reprint the 2 parts that holds the hotend. Not sure why but the polycarbonate prints were too tight for the hotend. I printed them in PETG and they fit perfectly. I couldn’t find the 6x13mm magnets and ordered 6x6mm instead. But they dont seem to be strong enough. I have heard that you can put 2 together and increase its strength. But that didn’t work for me. So I still have to find a better solution with these magnets. I have used a connector to allow swapping hotend. That works flawlessly. I was also lucky enough that both hotends are assembled so identical that the same z live offset is the same. That is great. Ho... where can i find a stl file to print a fake pneumatic fitting? I couldn’t find any. Thanks a lot, I owe you several coffees 😃 ok, I found 1/4in by 1/2in long magnet. This is just a bit larger than 6mm. The 6mm x 6mm were really too weak. Now it sounds clearly enough to hold properly.
@BeHeaven6163 жыл бұрын
Wow :o awesome work!
@basementdwellR3 жыл бұрын
Hair being cut and reverting back to previous length here and there was a nice bonus :D
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Right?! I was wondering if anyone would notice. Turns out it's not a good idea to work on a video for 3 weeks.
@basementdwellR3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns Nah it's cool. It just goes to show you've been working on it for a while to make as good as you possibly can. I think you did a great job with both the design itself and the video. The only thing that I (as a mere spectator) would consider changing would be to secure V6 heatsink with a piece that you can fasten over the "throat" part in the main extruder body. I really liked the belt tensioner on the carriage itself. Had not seen the wedge fastener before. Gonna use that for the Y-belt holder so thanks! :) There is a lot to like, but I just spent time modding an extruder for the MK2 to take the BMG as is, and getting connecters on everything (heater, thermistor, fan etc) so I can basically disconnect the extruder from the carriage without needing to rewire everything. I feel that is the biggest fault of the older generation printers. Some people have done custom boards that fit on the extruder motor to wire everything up locally and connect with only cat6 cables or usb3 (like the latest biqu b1 printer) on the motherboard side. It is so practical I can't fathom a printer without it now. It's like the next big improvement after steel sheets.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@basementdwellR yup, one cable for everything is really helpful. Finally some serious usability improvement. Took me a lot of time to redo the wiring on the printer when filming, and I cant imagine anyone enjoying the textile sleeve wrapping.
@RuttagerTube3 жыл бұрын
I'm starting to print the extruder now. I don't have an enclosure or safe ventilation to print ASA so I'm going with PETG. I'm hoping a silicone sock will shield the extruder from the heat block enough to prevent any warping or melting.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Yes, you'll be fine. Good PETG is better than warped ASA.
@AcidNightx Жыл бұрын
Hello, very very good project, I'm doing it right now on a full custom printer based on a prusa with bear mode, I'm using a BL touch for leveling and in your version 1.2 the hole is missing to fix the magnet just where there is the modification of the BL Touch ^^ (point 18 35:40, at the third magnet ^^)
@BruderManuel3 жыл бұрын
Done :) your guide is awesome !
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Awesome, thank you! Looking forward to learning how the extruder works for you.
@BruderManuel3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns First testlayer of PLA looked great. Buuut after 30min+ i had some Underextrusion. I added +5°C to the Nozzle Temp and tightend the Filament Gears a bit. Next print was perfect :) And the Extruder Stepper stayed cold the whole print!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@BruderManuel Thanks for the update. I would have tried the same thing :) Let me know if you encounter any other issues.
@BruderManuel3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns after the first spool of pla with your pitstopextruder i have still some underextrusion layer :/ (only on a few parts and only one or two layer at once) Do you have any advise? how tight are your filament gears?
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@BruderManuel I have the screw flush with the surface, maybe a bit tighter. It depends a lot on the filament, retraction settings, layer height, speed... Some filaments still need more temperature, especially the cheaper ones or if printing faster. With my Prusament I print at standard 215 the quality profile, but with others I print at around 220-230, it depends. Usually for me raising the temperature solves it even for the worst filament (unless you leave it in the sun and it becomes brittle). Just don't go so hot that it starts smoking. Also white is harder to print (in case you use that). Hope this helps. How did this filament work for you before the extruder change?
@eddyogi3 жыл бұрын
I can't wait to start assembly! I'm printing everything in polycarbonate. :)
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Wonderful! Looking forward to receiving your feedback.
@pintail1203 жыл бұрын
what printer ?
@eddyogi3 жыл бұрын
Gavin Beverley stock MK3
@eddyogi3 жыл бұрын
Gavin Beverley I do have an enclosure
@pintail1203 жыл бұрын
@@eddyogi what temp do you run the enclosure at ? are all the electronics outside the enclosure ?
@Leviatan232 жыл бұрын
Where do you get the alternative case for the bear frame (Einsy Rambo case)? Great job, I will mount mine in few hours.
@MihaiDesigns2 жыл бұрын
Somewhere on Thingiverse, can't remember really, was a long time ago.
@HellStormBeast23 жыл бұрын
Hey, I'm currently building the PitStop Extruder. Why do I have to use the MMU-Lever to block the Metal-Ball? When I use one of these Levers, I can't insert any Filament into the Extruder. Thanks!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hi. For MMU you don't use the the metal ball. I should have taken it out when explaining the MMU levers.
@RuttagerTube3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all your hard work. I have the same issue you had with heat creep causing clogs with pla on the stock extruder design. Once I feel adventurous I'm going to give your extruder a try. I have a question about the square nuts. Do they still need to be the thinnest ones under 2mm thick? I wonder if the nuts that are roughly 2.5mm thick would be easier to source.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Yes, would still have to be the thin ones. I promise the 2.5mm ones won't fit. It's not a matter of making larger holes, it's about there not being any room left for the walls in multiple places. I learned my lesson and will be more aware of this aspect in the future.
@LuisGarciaportillo3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns I bought the thicker ones because that's all I found and just used my grinder to thin them down a bit.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@LuisGarciaportillo wow that sounds like a lot of work. I hope they work.
@edmonddyogi64113 жыл бұрын
Can your designs be printed in 0.3 layer height? Keep up the good work! :)
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hi Edmond, I guess you can try. The only risk is overhangs; if they come out OK then go for it!
@p3c11003 жыл бұрын
Hello, Fantastic work ... I am building it. Where can I find the extension cable for the fan without having to solder? Do you have a reference ? Thanks
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hi Philippe, there's one people were going to try out in the US (see BOM). Haven't found anything in other places.
@TheJkilla113 жыл бұрын
So excited
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hey Justin, glad to hear that! A potentially bad news: there's a stock frame incompatibility I just learned about and am working on a fix. So if using stock frame there will be a revised carriage.
@TheJkilla113 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns yeah I read that and am bummed! Thanks so much for the honestest! Also would you be willing to share what filiment your using and also your printer configuration file?
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@TheJkilla11 using average Devil Design filament because I like the color. It's called Bright Orange. Printing profile is pretty close to stock, nothing fancy.
@TheJkilla113 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns saying pretty close to stock nothing fancy the slightest setting on a 3D printer can change the world of detail.....
@pintail1202 жыл бұрын
at 13:19 you suggest that the part LMU8 bearing can be used on the carriage mounting, I found that with no bolts added, the pressure from the print caused the bearings to bind on the rods, these bearingseem to be susceptable to minor clamping forces. Wondering if I should simply go with Igus bearings instead, or is that my 3D print is not great ? I printed this part out of ABS and it could have shrunk ? Would be great if I knew what some standard measurements should be on the orginal 3D design so I can compare with what my printer is outputing ? The bearing measures 15mm in OD, however my print job is showing 14.7 which is too tight for bearing. I will do a full calibration on my printer I check if that brings it up to spec.
@pintail1202 жыл бұрын
Ok, I carried out an extrusion multiplier reclalibration and it printed properly at 15mm, bearings no longer binding, still have to install screws, will report back
@MihaiDesigns2 жыл бұрын
That's a good point! This issue has been reported before. Having done some testing I realize the bearings are quite sensitive to compression, their outer metal casing being very thin and flexible. I went through all my bearing casings all over the printers and reprinted anything that seemed a bit tight. Am also careful not to tighten any screws too much to not risk deforming the bearings. Will definitely keep this in mind when using linear bearings in my design in the future.
@BrazenRain3 жыл бұрын
The PC4-M10 fitting I bought has a .9mm pitch. I spent a few iterations making a new threaded interface because the Pitstop cad model's pitch measured at 1mm. Did I measure wrong? (Or maybe the printed threads deflect enough to not matter)
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Indeed the pitch is not identical, but doesn't really matter. I think even no thread would work but I didn't get to test it. As long as you can insert it firmly in place you should be fine.
@BrazenRain3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns Good point! No-thread might be sufficient. I ended up with a very snug fit. Also I'm using a pass-through fitting and modified the body so the tube extends most of the way to the bondtech gears.
@mihaimadalin3 жыл бұрын
I have 2 questions: 1. How many gummy bear you sacrificed for this video? 2. How did you hear magically got shorter by the end of the video? The rest was a walk in the park!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
🤣 No bears or other animals were harmed in the making of this video! And I did get a haircut in the meantime 😁
@DennisDay583 жыл бұрын
I just did the Pit Stop upgrade on mk3s everything but the filament sensor is working great, I can push the sensor over but it does not trip the sensor. If I pull the sensor all the way out and plug it is and run a piece of paper through it it trips. What is going on? I have tried to move it closer with the little movement but still nothing. I can see the arm passing between the sensor but it like it is not registering. (It is printed in white) is that my problem with the sensor arm?
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hi Dennis, first I'd check that the lever looks alright, its tip has no holes or weird shape. Also the sensor should lie flat and have the lever tip pass in between its two black... things. Does it trigger if you manually push the lever to the left? I'd try is to make a black sensor and see if that changes anything (you'll have to take out the magnet screw to loosen the sensor screw when taking the lever out. Even though the paper triggers it, it can be that the lever does not reach very far in and light reflects inside the white extruder. Let me know if this works. I understand this is without the MMU2S. Sensor and lever position should be the same as with the stock extruder.
@wjsbruwer82063 жыл бұрын
I am the first person the build the pitstop extruder i am going to print the first print now wish me luck
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Cool! Good luck! And seriously, if there are any issues I'd love to learn about them. I want to improve the design and I need feedback.
@wjsbruwer82063 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns i have one problem, i am using an mmu2s with prusa mk3s now if my printer load the filament bondtech gears the ir sensor reads 1 and when the filament just almost star extruding the filament the ir sensor changes to 0 while the filament is between the bondtech gears and then y rinter keeps unloading and loading the filament over and over please help I am using the largest lever for the sensor
@wjsbruwer82063 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesignsit also only happens when my printer feeds the filament on its own but when i feed the filament manual the ir sensor only reads 1
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@wjsbruwer8206 thanks for reaching out. I can think of a few potential reasons. First, I'm guessing you're seeing these values on the display? Could be that the levers are not sensitive enough and the sensor barely triggers for a bit and then stops. One thing to try out is to nudge the IR sensor a little to the right kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmWyf413aLyVqa8. If that's not enough then perhaps you need an even larger lever. You can try to temporarily add a layer of electric tape or duct tape at the top of the idler door where it touches the lever just to see if this fixes the issue. The risk here is that you can make it too sensitive and the IR reads 1 all the time, in which case you can try nudging the sensor to the left a bit. Play with a bit of filament inserting and removing it in between the gears and checking the sensor reading. Another thing to check is if this happens with only one particular filament and it could be that the filament has a section that is way too thin. Can happen with lower quality filaments, but the solution above should fix the problem by making the IR more sensitive. It can also be that the problem is in fact triggered by the FINDA in the MMU2S unit. I say this because I've noticed that the actual sensor reading doesn't always get updated on the screen when the MMU2S is in certain states while it is using the actual reading to make decisions. I believe the FINDA has an LED light, so check that the light doesn't change at all while it's trying to load the filament in the extruder. Does all this make sense? Let me know how it goes. Also you can ask on www.reddit.com/r/Mihai/ directly if you want as I'm keeping an eye on that.
@wjsbruwer82063 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns thanks for the reply i will try every thing you said i will let you know if it worked
@wjsbruwer82063 жыл бұрын
I guess my pitstop does not work good. I have a problem with my pitstop while using the mmu2s when my filament reaches the bondtech gears on my LCD screen the ir value changes to 1 and when the filament goes out of the nozzle the value changes to 0 for some reason. I tuned the ir sensor so fine just when the bondtech gears move a mm the value changes to 1. I also changed the idler door's trigger so it is a litter bigger and printed it on my other printer but that does not make a difference. On the left side of my pitstop there is a little bigger gap from where the tensioner screw is; maybe that is the problem? I have tried every thing I can think of. I have a prusa mk3s with the stock frame. I am maybe going back to the stock extruder but the stock extruder does not even want to work with the mmu2s. Oh and the pitstop works great without the mmu2s. but the main reason I changed to pitstop is for better filament load and unloads please help
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hi, I just replied on your question on thingiverse. Basically try to make the sensor reading even more sensitive. Use some tape on the door. Also perhaps check the levers and the door to make sure they move easily. Idler door shouldn't have much play at the screw. Maybe also check what else could move when the filament reaches the nozzle causing the sensor to read 0. Can't think of anything else; it's pretty hard trying to imagine what's going on without having access to the actual printer.
@wjsbruwer82063 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns Have you even tested the mmu2s with the pitstop and are you sure the mmu2s works 100% with the pitstop? if so, how many multi color prints have you printed? Did you Encounter any problems? Or did the mmu2s work smooth with the pitstop extruder?
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@wjsbruwer8206 I already covered the answer in the videos... I did use them together about a year ago and didn't have any issues on the PitStop side. I did have a couple successful prints, but I decided the MMU2S is not something I should be using anymore, so in that sense I won't be going much further with the development in that direction. Others are just starting to use this combination so I'm waiting for more feedback. You can enlarge the filament path and push the PTFE tube further down towards the gears if the steel ball cutout is causing issues.
@LuisGarciaportillo3 жыл бұрын
Is there anywhere specific you want comments on the build? Idk if you want to scroll through KZbin comments looking for feedback.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hi Luis, if you could have a look at the feedback form link in the video description, that would be ideal. Thanks!
@LuisGarciaportillo3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns Yeah I saw that the first time I viewed the video then completely forgot about it. Thanks.
@kajuss51223 жыл бұрын
HARIBO!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Very important.
@kajuss51223 жыл бұрын
It's a excellent guide! What tools shall I use?
@nykwsk3 жыл бұрын
can you upload a design for 40x40 fan? I have SKR 1.4 and I cant find 24v fan
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Hi Nikos, do you mean the PitStop extruder with 40x40 fan instead of the large one? I don't have something like that. I have SKR 1.4 and I use the 5V fan. Connect the black normally and red to a free +5V pin.
@nykwsk3 жыл бұрын
MihaiDesigns yes but this will start fan from the beginning not after 50c. I need pwm pin ;)
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Yup. The ground pin on SKR is PWM. Chris Riley and Chris Warcocki both have videos on this. They convert Prusa printers to use SKR with stock 5V fan.
@nykwsk3 жыл бұрын
MihaiDesigns Ah ok! Now I read better the comment you say that you split the cable. So anyway I should buy a 60mm fan. I was trying to avoid that by using 40mm
@pintail1203 жыл бұрын
where can I find 6x13mm magnets ? ebay does not have them nor amazon
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
I couldn't find them either. You can get the 6x10mm ones, they're strong enough (not the weaker N35 grade). Or try the imperial 1/4 x 1/2 but you'll have to drill wider holes; I haven't tried.
@ThePasi673 жыл бұрын
I found here www.supermagnete.de/eng/rod-magnets-neodymium
@matthewcarter52483 жыл бұрын
I used pairs of 6x6mm, works great.
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@matthewcarter5248 excellent!
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
@@ThePasi67 Cool!
@GoranMilici3 жыл бұрын
What's wrong with your voice on some of the later voice overs you did? You sound like you were sick
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Trying out all sorts of microphones and setups... some not working too well. Not sick 😁
@airgunshuntingtargets66953 жыл бұрын
Haribooooooooooooooooooooo🤣🤣
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
How many did you find?
@airgunshuntingtargets66953 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns stopped counting after the first one lol
@airgunshuntingtargets66953 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns excellent guide by the way
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Might be a bit too long, covering many scenarios and mods. I'm learning as I go :)
@ggaub3 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns No, it was perfect. I felt like I could watch it, follow along, pausing as needed. Unlike so many other videos that I'd have to rewind and watch quick segments multiple times to understand what was being shown/done. This video makes me want to do this upgrade even more than before.
@cephalonzero3504 Жыл бұрын
Its all cool but it seems that everyone who gets a 3D printer will spend rest of his life printing parts or tools for 3D printer :D
@pintail1202 жыл бұрын
have you heard of these bearings: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2eae4uihKimZtU&ab_channel=VesconiteBearings what do you think ?
@MihaiDesigns2 жыл бұрын
I used the ones from Igus, but I wasn't getting good accuracy and low friction, an experience others shared as well, so I moved away from them.
@pintail1202 жыл бұрын
@@MihaiDesigns did you also use the rods supplied by igus with igus bearings ?
@VelvetRevolver40362 жыл бұрын
Brinliant!!!!
@pintail1203 жыл бұрын
challenge: play video at X2 speed without slowing it down and comprehensively understanding and taking in everything said "emoji with horns"
@MihaiDesigns3 жыл бұрын
... and follow along
@PhillipTorrickeBarton3 жыл бұрын
That's exactly how I watched this video! 2x was the perfect speed for me :P
@basementdwellR3 жыл бұрын
That is my standard setting for all youtube videos:) I mean one can always pause/rewind or slowdown if need be. I turn down the speed for podcasts type stuff when I am doing something else and not actively watching.
@GoranMilici3 жыл бұрын
You don't eat animals? You're not a real Romanian! Lol.