Placing pegs in winter

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Glenmore Lodge Head of Mountaineering Jon Jones demonstrates how to place pegs in winter when climbing or constructing a belay. Glenmore Lodge offer a range of Winter Climbing courses from December to April, based in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, Aviemore.

[@cyd0c505]

Stupid question, but can a small friend (0.1/0.2/0.3) be placed in that crack?

[@scottrobertson1235]

Yes

[@phb6795]

Quelle différence avec l'été ???

[@SileDevil]

ok but how do you belay the second using that anchor?

[@rushthezeppelin]

Most Europeans belay directly off their harness with a tube device with anchors like this.

[@richardparke4105]

Direct belay using guide mode is not the only, nor always the best way to bring up a second. If you've built the anchor from your rope you typically belay off your harness, either from the rope loop or the belay loop (there are pro's and con's to both options).

[@spencershields9186]

I don't think that he finished building the anchor, he just placed some pieces and got himself off belay.

[@murraypendergrass8077]

A rope anchor could be used here. Clove hitch to top pin, master point, clove hitch to bottom pin, then load your device and clip to master point.

[@kilikus822]

*Sees the date the video was uploaded* Can this be trusted?????

[@shawndolina6189]

Or course it can. It's the same technique they used since forever ago

[@marian_f1704]

Why not title it "pegging in the winter"?

[@scottseamonkey2766]

Correct me if I am wrong but you are not allowed to use these on Scottish mountains?

[@TalesFromRealAir2112]

That's pretty subjective. Certainly, on summer routes, it would be frowned upon pretty greatly to start hammering pegs in. On winter only routes (which tend to have crappy rock that's not good for summer climbing anyway), they're occasionally the only option if you want to get a bit of gear in. So it's not a blanket 'no', but don't go mental with them.

[@glenmorelodge]

The Mountaineering Council of Scotland give a description of the ethos of traditional climbing under its "Climbing in Scotland Statement An Explanation of How Climbing is Conducted (June 2010)" Here at Glenmore Lodge we aim to preserve the ethos as stated. Within this statement are some words on the use of pegs. See the following link for more information: www.mcofs.org.uk/assets/climbing%20in%20scotland%20statement%20final.pdf

[@Buchstabensuppe75]

the second peg is ridiculous. that wouldnt even hold 15 kilos

[@rossgoldie]

Please dont place a piton where a perfect cam placement is. With offset cams and totems readily available now, pitons are not needed unless on dedicated aid routes. Lets save the rock from more scars

[@alexandermajor6467]

No scars here and the inability to use a cam was clearly explained

[@brycemullin2370]

@@alexandermajor6467 Looked like it would've take a smaller cam

[@richardparke4105]

@@brycemullin2370 1)Cams are sometimes not safe to use in on winter climbs (snow and ice can severely limit the friction needed for the cam to operate properly) 2) You'd need a very small cam for that placement, a size people either may not have or may not think worth carrying on their rack (see point 1 for reasons people may not choose to carry cams on winter climbs) 3) This is a tutorial video, it's there to show people how to use a particular piece of gear to protect themselves in the mountains. That they weren't able to find the (in your opinion) exact circumstances that would make a piton the ideal placement above all others is nitpicking to the extreme.

[@richardparke4105]

As addendum, small cams also typically operate over a very small range of sizes. If you didn't have a cam that pretty much exactly matches that cracks size you also wouldn't have a particularly safe placement.

[@brycemullin2370]

@@richardparke4105 True!