Plug BLOCKING wires? No problem! How to run speaker wire through door plugs!

So you need to run larger speaker wire into your doors for your aftermarket speakers, but there is a problem, there is a plug in the way! How do we bypass the plug and get our large wire ran through the boot and connected to the speaker? Here is how! THIS MODIFICATION IS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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[@RS-fc3cq]

I’m going to apply this to my friends ‘17 chevy cruze. You always have the cleanest, most professional “car audio fabrication” how-to’s, Do’s n Dont’s and DIY info. Awesome content Mark! I always look forward to your videos! ~if I can’t use it now, I know I will at some point!~

[@edwardsoares3838]

Glad to finally see someone doing it right and avoiding water leaks. Took me close to 8 hours doing four doors my first.

[@mupory]

What's considered a "substantial amount of power"? At what wattage would you NOT use the stock wiring and upgrade to 14g or bigger if applicable?

[@JM-nd3ps]

Having installed/fabricated for over 20 years...I've done this exact technique that Mark shows quite a few times. One tip I have...is for pulling the new wires through the rubber door boot as sometimes they are especially tight and you have to fight with them in that tight space between the body and the door shell. When you have large hands...this becomes increasingly difficult and frustrating. Make sure to tape the new wires to the fish/ziptie as tight and as flush to the ziptie as possible to keep the lowest/thinnest profile!!! Also be aware of the orientation/direction of how you're taping the new wires to the ziptie! I have found that using cheap/no-name Harbor Freight electrical tape tends to NOT have the stick that is sometimes needed in tight door boots...and you'll have to make multiple attempts at pulling through....so just go with a high quality electrical tape...I prefer 3M. Now to the tip...The wire insulation likes to grab and drag on the inside of the rubber boot sometimes...so to rectify that issue I use a little spritz of dry silicone spray over the area where you've taped the new wires to the ziptie BEFORE attempting to pull them through the stock rubber boot. The last thing you want to is to damage the factory wiring/pins while pulling the new wires through...or just as bad...pull the pins out of the factory molex plug! It lubricates the ziptie, tape, AND the inside of the rubber boot along with the stock wiring inside so that everything slides through quickly and smoothly! You CAN use something like WD40...however it's more of a liquid than a spray so it tends to drip/run and it doesn't dry nearly as fast as dry silicone spray dries.

[@woodywood5339]

Silicone spray.... They don't teach that at installer school 👏👏👏

[@THEJAXEL]

Also, the tabs that are on both side you can on some car use your hands to pull them out!

[@JaredElliott1]

@@woodywood5339 Poor man's wire pulling lube!

[@bbfoto7248]

@J M I wouldn't suggest to use WD-40. It is a lubricant but also has SOLVENTS. You don't want to use any type of chemicals that could react with and degrade the wire insulation, plastic Molex connectors, or rubber boot, etc! Dry talcum powder or baby powder works equally as well and is inert and safe! It might be a bit messy, but it cleans up easily with a vacuum or damp cleaning rag. And you can purchase relatively inexpensive bottles of professional wire-pulling lubricant at your local home center's electrical department or on Amazon. The purpose-made wire-pulling lubricant is inert and much safer than using even the dry silicone spray lubricant (which I would not advise using, as silicon can also react with and degrade certain other materials). After a short amount of time the professional wire-pulling lubricant evaporates and leaves no detrimental residue. It's a small price to pay to ensure that no short or long term damage is done to any of the connectors, wiring, or rubber boots. An old handyman's trick was to sparingly use mild liquid dish soap, such as Palmolive. But this will leave some permanent sticky residue that may also degrade plastics, wire insulation, and rubber parts over time. It would be much safer to use the dry talcum or baby powder.

[@willbowen6235]

I use baby shampoo, slides right thru!

[@itsjustjonnoh]

Man.. you literally cover everything that I am questioning.. crazy.. I have a 2017 Patriot and I have this kind of plug so thank you a bunch! Watching literally all of your videos before all my stuff arrives by Friday.

[@gwill322]

This made my rewiring very simple on my 2011 Cadillac Cts! I found that if I compressed the boot, it was easier to pull the wire through. GREAT VIDEO 👍🏾👍🏾

[@rolfbach2721]

You are the man mark. Im sitting there staring at the harnes like hmmm how maby caf has a answer and as always you come through. THANK YOU MARK !!!!

[@UdiIsReal]

Hey Mark, i wanted to leave this here for others to see what i do as an option - which i consider decent in most applications. What i usually do to rout thicker wire for door speakers is to actually cut the existing speaker wire realy close to the molex plug (leaving space to solder) and then solder the thicker wire to both ends (interior of the car and interior of the door). The total added resistance of 10cm tops of thin wire is neglijable - thus performance loss is neglinjable as well, and no speaker wire is actualy even close to fusible (or max current thermal handling either) to the power we put into them (60-100 maybe even 150w/speaker). I find this very elegant solution as you get the benefit of thick wire over most of the run, and you totally retain the factory plug. Thanks alot for all the content, i really like your elegant style and was greatly inspired by it. Keep it up my man!

[@UdiIsReal]

It adds a soldering job but you don't usually have to remove the doorside harness (removal of the interior one is usually necessary for access to the wire).

[@nakulah]

Thank you so much!! I wasn’t expected my 2003 Suzuki to have the harness in the way. This video came out at the perfect time. Just successfully got the wires through 😀😀

[@andrethib]

Enjoyed the video as usual, very clear and informative. with regards to crutchfield - i am no installation expert by any means, but i've installed a few stereos for myself and for friends and i've always enjoyed the process. the first installation i ever did was around 1978 or 1979, i helped my older brother's best friend install a pioneer cassette deck and jensen 6x9 speakers into his 1976 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. we ordered everything from crutchfield, they were great to work with even back then.

[@aaronberryessa4908]

Thank you so much! Glad I subscribed. I have to do this on my mk5 gti. In the past I have searched relentlessly for a video on drilled out Molex connectors and only found 1 other that was no where as detailed and coherent as this one. Keep up the great work!

[@MRDJR-ro6hj]

I have been blown away by crutchfields service, products and support. By far the best in Canada

[@JT-yl3no]

I actually did it on my own thanks to your tutorial. It came out flawless on my 2012 Mustang. Thank you for being such an inspiration to us newbies. I would love to one day reach out to you so you could build me a custom system in my 67 Mustang.

[@aaronag7876]

Absolutely brilliant, I know this was for the USA market and Im in the UK but chances are its the same set up, so this is exactly what I needed to know, as needed to run a power cable for USB to go in the door, but when I pulled out the inner door cable it had a wrapped loam cable, so gave up on the idea. I can revisit this now with this new knowledge and hope I can copy your idea and get that dual USB port in the door. Thank you so much.

[@FU-Utube]

I came across this issue when I was 16, 10 years ago. I thought it would be so simple to just pop off the boot and run the wires. Same damn connector. I used the drill method, although I had a better angle and left the plug in the door. Seeing this video now all this time later, makes me realize that it was a clever idea and not completely stupid lol.

[@herculesbrofister265]

You were installing car stereos when you were 6? Come on what kind of idiots do you take us for

[@airzillarocks]

@@herculesbrofister265 He stated 16, not 6... :)

[@stephenlee2894]

This is some advanced level installation right here, nicely done!

[@fastpitchnet7353]

Great video. I used this modification to add wires to my rear doors. I only have a single OEM wire feeding a woofer and a tweeter with a passive crossover. I’m changing my system to a full active, and needed an additional wire for the woofers (using the original OEM wire for the tweeter). So... this modification is not only useful to increase the wire size, but to be able to get add the capability to go full active if you only have one wire going to that door.

[@rtmpgt]

I came here looking for a way to thread wires through the door boots, and I think your tutorial sums it up real nicely. Time to add RGB Halos to my doors, yo!

[@seanperdue232]

Well I ran into this video about 6 months too late, but it was an excellent tutorial and know I know for next time. By the way I like how you gave your disclaimer several times about making this modification. There are way too many folks who would love to not take the blame on messing up their own vehicle. So you covered yourself well my friend. :^)

[@joeyperalta1748]

Hey mark I’ve been a automotive acoustic wave enhancement specialist for 20yrs and we do it the same way though every car is different that’s where the fun is

[@midbass.maestro]

Ur quality of work is so perfect for your viewers to strive for but never quite achieve lol. I'm always in to car audio but I'm actually wiring a multi amp setup with a active crossover and your videos are perfectly timed for me...

[@tapiotukiainen2500]

Great video. I could have used this two years ago when I fought with my wires. It took me about 2 hours/side. I added a new wires just in case for active use I thought I'd do later. Well two years later I still run my front stage passive (because it sounds great to me) with factory wiring and the added wires are just sitting there 🙂. Well many some day I'll do some upgrades..

[@aurelsimon2634]

Thank you Mark! I was thinking about something like that, but never gone for it. You not just gave advice to people... you give courage! You make it look so simple, that ppl want to try it. Thanks on the disclaimer, lucky for me all of my cars are 15+ yrs, so no warranty issues. :)

[@JM-kn9dh]

This video would have been have been helpful a few months ago when I ran the wire for my 4 channel amp lol. It took me all day to figure it out. Great video non the less

[@JaredElliott1]

I just purchased a pair of XTR69.3 speakers for my doors and this video helped me out. Thanks! I got lucky though and my doors don't have the electric window option so I have AMPLE room in the connection port as there is an entire plug missing.

[@pengasus]

Man, this is bloody brilliant! I wish i watched this earlier today when I was struggling to figure out which one of the cables on the molex socket were speaker wires. I might still go with your route as It seems much simpler and I don't know if I got the right ones yet. Car is in pieces and will find out tomorrow =D

[@joeherrera5172]

2012 Traverse, just did the passenger side due to amp burning the speaker wires. The video was a a great help! Thanks

[@ericvernon1182]

What a great video...gonna run a bunch of new speaker wire soon and i bet I've got a connector like that in my doors...thanks for solving a future problem for me...what an elegant solution.

[@shoebsaleheen9091]

Thank you so much! I've been going nuts thinking about how to run some power wires through the door plugs on my '11 Axela... This gives me new ideas! Thanks again and a happy new year!

[@todddrawhorn744]

WOW...I was just underneath my dash and saw this. I thought how the heck am I gonna get speaker wires through there! I said well lets try KZbin but i doubt ill find any info on that! I couldn't believe it after watching your video. I never comment on videos and never Subscribe. But after seeing this video, and many others of yours, I officially Subscribed for the first time. THANK YOU for helping me solve the many problems of installing a high end stereo in a new car! BTW...bought everything from Crutchfield ;-)

[@TheWonkax]

Thx for the video! You gave me a few tips that will make my install easier now... I really enjoy your channel and all the info you supply!

[@blk99xtreme]

Awesome! I was just looking at my 17 Traverse wondering how I was going to do this! Thank you so much!

[@michaelrodriguez350]

Crutchfield sponsorship? Very nice. Thanks for sharing invaluable information that you had to work to learn.

[@dehnger]

Great point, the fact is missed by some. Brands dont give out their support when their brand is valuable. This guy is absolutely incredible in his thorough methods and is well worth backing.

[@smack9x]

Crutchfield has great customer support which is extremely rare nowadays. I've been using them for almost 20 years now.

[@loudelvis610]

Cruthfield sponsored cool...they are on the hook when people mess this up lol

[@lordsagat2503]

Thanks Mark! I've been wanting to do this for a year now! First warm day I'm going to be doing this and adding MORE sound deadening

[@aidenlim2488]

Thank you so much!!!! I opened it to work on audio in my new car and gave up, but I will try it with courage through this video

[@sethshelton3113]

Doing a "hobby" restoration on my '05 Mustang and could only find GT door panels with the Shaker 500 door subs ... and of course my car doesn't have the wiring to make it a "simple" plug & play. This video not only confirmed what I figured I'd have to do but most likely saved me a ton of money had I taken it to a shop to have done. The only hurdle (and not in any way CAF's fault) is even fully open Mustang doors leave little space to maneuver: like getting your hand in there to disconnect/connect the tabs. no worries: challenges make hobbies even more satisfying

[@bluestreaktundra]

Wow! That was quick getting this video together. Thanks!

[@nathanmillard]

Thank you, thank you! This issue had me foxed, until today! I was on the verge of drilling new holes - most likely a terrible idea without very high quality grommets.

[@angelcantero7320]

Thank you so much for uploading this way of routing the cables to the doors. I'm gonna go back to my car and do it properly now (dont ask how I did it before LOL). Loving the series on this car

[@lordsagat2503]

Wires hanging out and exposed?! 🤣

[@angelcantero7320]

@@lordsagat2503 yea basically. It was temporary till I came up with a better idea on how to do it. My car also has that stupid door plugs, wish I had this video before 😂

[@STV-H4H]

An excellent guide to pull wires thru that boot. I did a variation of your technique, but it wasn’t simple or efficient. 😢 IF I ever try that task again, at least I have seen that another simpler option exists. Thx. ❤

[@swnurmo1343]

Thanks again Mark for a great video install of wires. Unfortunately I do not like this method. I do understand your that it is difficult to find the correct pins the manufactory uses, but when you do can find it, I recommand it to buy them and use them. It makes it absolutely easier when needed to unplug the door wires. For older verhicles this can be fine easily. For newer vehicles it might be a tuff one to find. If someone has a site where to order these pins for these connector, please do share them. Keep up the amazing install videos posting Mark. Cheers mate.

[@Jes204]

What I love about you away from your personality is that you are educating us not like other all they care is them self keep it up we love you all the best to you and your family

[@billyfranco1374]

I found that sometimes routing the wire through the rubber boot, makes it really challenging because of too many wires already in the boot or its too tight I use some light grease or oil where you connect the wire and the tool to channel the wire. It makes it a lot easy to pull the wires through.

[@DracolegacyOfficial]

quick, simple and functional. i've never had to do this but i'll definitely just pin new wires if it ever comes up. "but in the video he said..." yeah, i know, i watched it too. its just a matter of preference and patience.

[@nowind4kite]

I've done this before absolutely works amazing in my opinion.

[@youngsun6617]

You didn't show how you got the rubber boot back on. That is the hardest part and actually why I clicked on this video. Thanks for all the videos btw. You are a wealth of knowledge that I have used to make sure I did the right thing in my own cars in the past, also for what I'm hoping to do in my future installs and upgrades which includes a dsp. I have definitely learned a lot and have much more confidence because of you sharing your knowledge. Always great videos!

[@connorpennington2469]

Awesome video! Just had to do this for door locks on a remote start today!

[@eodvet485]

Great video. You can also research the appropriate sockets and pins that the oem uses in the plug and crimp onto the wire. Hard to find, but looking up oem door harness repair kits gives a good place start.

[@juan2049]

I was thinking that too. However would cutting the wire to put in a pin have a negative effect to the power handling of the wire? EDIT: Nevermind he covered it at the 10min mark of the video

[@mrjolly8680]

Nice, thanks for that. Nice simple solution with impeccably high standards of workmanship. I’ll use this to wire my new jl c5’s tomorrow........thanks.

[@Brian1.]

Never would've thought of that. Thanks for sharing.

[@Punchmememe]

Thank you man you are a legend. My peugeot 206 5 doors did not have speakers in the back but there was space for it and factory build speaker place but not wires. i found them there was connection in the suddle but nothing in the rear doors. I made some custom wires to connect to the wires and now i have blasting music in the back!

[@rollingtones1]

8:51 I use forceps w/rounded jaws, and by using silicone spray I can slide the forceps gently through the grommet and grab speaker wires without hurting anything. These surgical forceps are designed to not hurt surrounding tissue due to being rounded off.

[@chadalcock7275]

I use a coat hanger that I made an eye on one end. Tape the wire to that end and pull them through.

[@aantonio06]

I know this is an old video but very educational nonetheless. What I have found to help fish wire through the rubber boot for either speaker or power wire. Is to put some oil on them or wd40. It will make it slide right through.

[@derbrandmeister4660]

I am deeply grateful for this video. Thank you big time!

[@roberthopkins8089]

Excellent you have obviously done this many many times as you make it look easy... Plastic pry tools are a must to avoid scratches... Gloves to save hands and be careful drilling and holding the plug... Easy to drill straight through your hand... its very soft... Dont wear a glove when drilling you can get wrapped up in the drill bit... Just saying as ive got it wrong a few times now... Owch

[@ixionn563]

Sweet, I'll have to try this. My 14 gauge wires have been sitting there exposed and ugly for awhile, time to make it look factory.

[@ankithmistry]

Just love your tips... Excellent workmanship 💚

[@armandolios4561]

Sooo many thanks, I did this on my Vitz rear doors. it worked!!!

[@bbfoto7248]

@CarAudioFabrication Quick tip for others watching. ALWAYS check the driver's side door Molex connector first! It will typically have the most amount of wires, and the connector may be fully loaded with no available space for your aftermarket wires. If you start with the passenger door, you may get an unpleasant surprise once you try to complete the same installation on the driver's side. And even for high powered midbass door speakers, 14 gauge is the largest speaker wire you would ever need to run. And in 90% of installs, 16 gauge will be more than adequate. So in a lot of instances, this process is completely unnecessary, unless you need extra wires in the door for actively crossed-over component set tweeters, or a 3-way set, for example, One caveat is that some of the late model Toyotas are now using aluminum speaker wiring, so it's the same issue as CCA power wiring compared to good OFC.

[@grantprice1932]

Absolute genius idea. Just what I needed! Thanks!!!!

[@stateboy80892]

My 2014 Forte LX has that type of harness between the door and door frame too 😪 lol this helped a lot!

[@valiik]

Perfect! That is just what I needed. Thank you!!!

[@patrickhall782]

Great video. Needed this 12 years ago on my 1st car. Almost did what you did but gave up and did it another way that left the wires exposed and looked janky. Will do this in the future on my current car if it seems necessary after adding my old 4 channel amp. Don't think 50watts rms should be an issue for stock wiring do you Mark?

[@zonvanzon]

I just opened my door panel and found this part. I must install my new cables through this Thanks man because now I know what to do ...Nightmare !!

[@PacmannProductionsTv]

Nice tips. Now I need to rerun my wire and get a new rubber boot since I sliced it up to run my wire through lol

[@WordLogos]

Hi Mark, great video and nice detail about the wiring in the boot there. But why didn't you remove the stock speaker wire in the connector since you are running new wire from the amp to the speaker? Also, once you plug finished plugging in the speaker from your amp to the actual speaker on the door, what do you do with the stock speaker wire that you won't use anymore? do you remove it from the door completely or leave it in there taped up? Thanks, sorry for the newbie questions but I seen just about all your videos and others in KZbin and no one shows this detail about the speaker wire connections at the actual speaker in terms of being neat and removing extra cables or not.

[@WilliamHinojosa]

Greatest video ever!!! Thanks Mark. Top notch.

[@RS8XB]

I typically add a additional connector in the door to disconnect if necessary. I have 8 speakers in each of my doors. 4 horns and 4 8" midbass

[@ixionn563]

Sounds like a badass setup, been wanting to do 8s in my doors for awhile.

[@MohamedAli-vj4ln]

Question. Am replacing my car radio. I was wondering if I can connect a crossover to a EQ. N if I can't which of the two should I use

[@oscarcuevassn95saleemzr12]

Awesome trick thanks CAF. For your wonderfull vids.🙂

[@AzraelIgnis]

I did this to my 2015 Charger. IT WAS A PAIN! But necessary for the speakers I was using at the time. Now I have a 2020 RAM 1500 I'm about to do. It's going to be much easier and straight forward compared to my charger. I'll be using 12ga for my C7 6.5 and 14ga for my C7 3'' midrange and tweeters. I'll be running active with VXi amps from JL.

[@fuloman9894]

That was a very smart idea. Thank you for sharing!!

[@ryanmccausland6497]

im actually looking at doing this to my 2001 Tahoe. the sound system is total shit, due to the crossover amp thats behind the glove box. i did the bypass, but it didnt really help at all, the bass is still very very weak, even at the highest setting. what i found out from local sound shops, is the only way to fix it, is to rewire the door speakers completly, from the back of the head unit, to the speakers which will fully bypass the crossover amp and make things sound good. thanks for the video! ill be using it when the weather warms up and i can get out there and work on it!

[@TheFMusician]

Many many thanks for this video. I will be installing an aftermarket system in my 2014 Ram 1500. What size speaker wire did you send thru the plug into the door? 14ga? 16ga?

[@chilodaone]

Exactly the video I was looking for! Thanks!!

[@zaga416]

Thank you so much now I can run wires through it and it will look like a pro clean job

[@perf8032]

Nice job. I got an extra harness and pulled the pins out, made it so if anybody removes the harness, it will be plug and play. No one will need to re-do anything, soon as they plug in the harness all speakers will be restored.

[@wyattbarton2678]

Thank you for the helpful information

[@user-un1sh8xh5v]

Nice bunch of videos coming in!

[@MrNoodlyone]

You are a genius!!! I couldn't bring myself to drill, but ethernet cable is 'free'. Six 22 gauge = 14 AWG. Not clean enough for you, as you are an artist. I just used some heat shrink. I never woulda thought of this!!!

[@DiyAllaroundguy]

Did this on a king ranch f-150 what a pain but it work 👍

[@CarGuy87]

Very nicely done. Will be using this know-how.

[@icanfartloud]

Great vid....yep this Is more complicated than back in the day.

[@colbynye5995]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[@woodfamily5229]

This is terrific information and I'm excited to use it to put four new speakers into my used car. I do have one question. You pushed the harness back into the body and retrieved it from under the dash. That is fine for the front doors, but where does the harness in the rear doors connect? I'm afraid if I push them into the body, I won't be able to retrieve them from the car frame. 2003 Matrix. Thanks for any help! Ordering the speakers and gear from Crutchfield in a few minutes!

[@ChazzCoombes]

Cool tips there Mark, i done this when i installed aftermarket speakers on my mk3 mondeo. So some really good advice, keep up the work.

[@johndc7446]

I am more into pa subwoofers. Any recommendations when it comes to choosing drivers? Would I need higher impedence, xmax, and 15 inch sub atleast? The average crowd would be around 100 and 200 max. Two kinds of space: Small auditorium and open field. Live band performance. Lastly any recommended enclosure that has power and good quality sound? Thanks.

[@jarkkov79]

what do you think about installer, who always does full active install (most expensive), no matter what customer wants?

[@smiththers2]

I had to do this 3 years ago when I installed power windows in a base model Silverado 2016

[@michaelzernie7092]

Thats awesome! This is exactly what I did to pass heavier wires thru for my new speakers. Nice and clean.

[@ryanwilson5936]

Hi Mark, I’m about to do this on my 14 Equinox and I was wondering if you remember what size bit you used? It just looks too big in the video but clearly it isn’t lol. Thanks!

[@NinaBabyTV]

Hey mark, I've been binge watching your videos and is there a video that shows me which items to purchase first and why? I don't want to give up too much space so I was thinking of 1 10" sub. Still learning, but a lot of the terminology goes over my head lol.

[@michaelthomas2113]

I do the same way....but I use silicon spray to feed the wires through the boot easier

[@raabsand]

You could also buy the molex crimp pins and make it like factory. I get that takes way more work and time

[@micaarzur]

It would most likely be a bottleneck for the thicker wires, and wouldn't be designed to allow that much current through.

[@gwill322]

@@micaarzur you are 100% correct

[@johndoe2022]

@robert sand What is the size of crimp connectors, male and female for that molex connector?

[@apolinarponce4506]

I actually put male and female pins so if door was ever removed no problem

[@johndoe2022]

What is the size/dimensions of the female and male crimp connectors??

[@massholemitch6699]

@@rvds0804 he explains exactly why he doesn’t do this....

[@thedjrush]

@@massholemitch6699 lol yeah hater didn’t watch the full video 😂

[@alexvanboekel7730]

Every dealership can get them for modern cars, look on the internet long enough and youll find some Chinese factory making them for whatever size wire you want.

[@beammech]

Brilliant video, Which AWG speaker wire was used in this video?

[@Hienix]

I really love your videos, but I've run into an issue, on front doors I even used pins so that the harness coukd be unpluged and pluged back again without cutting, but on back doors, all pins are being used. Any idea to this?

[@dogsbyfire]

Really clever! Thank you.

[@GENERALWA5TE]

The size if the drill bit you used, could you fit blue bullet ternimals in the hole made for the speaker cable.

[@EliteHunting1911]

Would you for sure disconnect the battery before unhooking the wiring harness in the door?