Plumbing radiator and Power Steering - Porsche 986 Boxster V8 engine swap track car build 6

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[@69MazdaR100]

Def need to replace all those silicon joiners with solid ally elbows, will give you more clearance and less chance of leaks

[@Leopardosx]

Paint the key for the lathe flouropink or orange. Also, have a pre start checklist and follow it for the lathe. I don’t want you to get hurt.

[@jcmcclellan82]

Less on the silcone elbows and connectors. The less you use the less chance you have for leaks. One piece pipes bent to your specs and with rubber insulator mounts will give clearance and clean up the undercarriage

[@JTGaffley]

"And I left my key in the chuck again! Agrrr!" Brilliant Jeff, loving every episode, and cannot wait to see the Alferrari!

[@michaelw4620]

But do you think you’ll be able to get the lid down with a huge supercharger? 🤔🤣

[@racingfortheson]

You should make a safety switch that you have to plug the chuck into to be able to power the lathe up.

[@stuartd9741]

Dead mans handle?

[@dudeonbike800]

See bungee cord suggestion above. Brilliant. As someone who almost "crashed" a lathe , I truly appreciate the simplistic effectiveness of such a suggestion.

[@koolkar55]

Jeff why wouldn't you just fabricate a complete alloy tube & remove all the silicon pipes

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

I could but this is quicker.

[@anomamos9095]

On the sub frame. I would scrap it and try again with different engine mounts and round tube bent to cradle the engine either closer or further away to give you more space for the hoses and belts.

[@nathanaeljonesmyfsd]

This. Bent round tubes are how many, many OE subframes are built. See: most BMWs.

[@andrewlangford88]

Fuck that, track car

[@nathanaeljonesmyfsd]

@@andrewlangford88 Just because it's a track car doesn't mean it should be difficult to service. Simplify and add lightness.

[@autobodyrepairclearcoot4146]

@@nathanaeljonesmyfsd I think becuse Cv Axles You can't Move Engine Beck or Forth I think is Just Fine More Hoses More Water Mor Cooler

[@nathanaeljonesmyfsd]

@@autobodyrepairclearcoot4146 More fluid volume is nice, but more hoses = more chance that a clamp will slip and cause a leak.

[@gordonkachuk5457]

Why don't you replace that enormous alternator with one of those small lightweight high power versions. Will give you a lot of extra space and save weight.

[@michaelowen6144]

Hello Jeff. With all those bends, Rises and Valley's in the cooling system I'm sure you've already thought of it but vacuum filling the coolant system is about the only way you'll get rid of all the air. You just Evacuate the system like you were doing air conditioning and then put coolant in to take the place of the vacuum! BMW I8 have a similar problem and that's how they take care of air in the system with them.

[@XiraArien]

The boxer and 911 got same problem when stock, so he probably gonna use that filling method anyway

[@sammm700]

loving this build series. cant wait to see how this v8 performs in the Roxster.

[@jamesdorsey1686]

I was going to comment on leaving the chuck key in the chuck but you reacted like I did after that first knot in my forehead. Your project and videos are made for TV my friend, I intend to see you through to the end. Thank you, stay safe.

[@iainmcglynn833]

Excellent skills Jeff It’s ok to blow your own trumpet , no one will blow it better 👌🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@anomamos9095]

Put the chuck key on a bungee cord so you have to pull it to the chuck. Not too strong a cord or you’ll replace one problem with another 😱

[@fredericrike5974]

And the Audi ran when dismantled- you have all the bits and bobs from the engines "home world". I'm still thinking make it easy to drop the engine/trans for even plug changes! FR

[@benhowe2087]

Now that you have made a perfect mold for the convoluted coolant hose. You could fabricate one from aluminum using mandrill bends and tubes welded together. Gives you allot more room and lighter. Less places for potential leaks and tucks everything up above the frame for more protection should you expectance an off road excursion on the track.

[@dubaitacker6347]

Jeff you could have used the steel tubing of the sub frame as a section of the radiator pipe work. rather than having alloy pipe hanging pround underneath the subframe.

[@lolacaitlin]

Paint your chuck key bright yellow or something similar so it stands out, that way you'll remember to remove it 👍😎

[@clivewilliams1406]

Too many joints! The potential for leaks has grown exponentially. I would have used stainless steel exhaust pipe to get all the bends and curves required, which can then be welded together. The e.o. weight of the stainless steel compared with aluminium is negligible especially when you factor the weight of water that it contains besides, all those silicone tube and clamps will increase the weight further on the alloy pipe. Also, stainless steel is corrosion resistant and damage resistant compared to aluminium. Many amateurs use copper pipe and fittings to get the solid system that is required. Copper is readily and cheaply available and works well and wil take the very limited pressures involved. Corrosion is no more an issue than with aluminium especially when a good quality anti-freeze/inhibitor is used.

[@paulechols]

Awesome work puzzling it together Jeff. Had to chuckle with you again about the chuck... How about a quick segment in one of your videos where you paint it in a super obnoxious color so it stands out and likely gets taken out. Hate to see the glass get broken or a hole shot in the Alfararri. Cheers

[@marckirchner2548]

You should change your name to ChuckKey when working on the laith..😬

[@1one3_Racing]

Dude, it's a race car. I would have just punched those radiator hoses through the cabin and weld in a shitty cover.

[@janeblogs324]

They aren't Anti crush tubes, that guy was being sarcastic lol. But he got you good

[@nazdagg2027]

remember when you were a kid and mom got you mittens with a connecting string to prevent mitten loss? how about a string on your chuck key? hehehehehe.

[@williamflatters2336]

You could add a spring to the end of your chuck so it always pushes out when you take your hand off it, used to have these when I was an apprentice.

[@claybadham1391]

If this is going to be a dedicated track car, why not route the coolant lines through the rear seat area inside the car. With some insulation you could reduce heat issues

[@jjmcoupebmw6557]

Would braided hose with AN fittings work?

[@ozbusa]

Was thinking same thing.

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

Yep.

[@zenithenginering6099]

In your situation the stick welding is perfect.

[@zenithenginering6099]

It should have been stitch welding. I hate auto correct.

[@87rover49]

3K views and only 300 likes Come on guys and gals show some love

[@Nihil1st1347]

You also would have become an excellent plumber.

[@Drumheros]

How much does the subframe weigh?

[@nickmassey9104]

Great progress Jeff ,lil details can be sorted out later 👌

[@SkylarkCamperAdventures]

Will have to rename you to Chuck Key (Chuckey!)

[@MrStroller4u]

damn, the V8 came with a 150 amp alternator!

[@Steve-jq4st]

You are making it sound easy Jef.

[@difacilprojects6676]

Fantastic episode!

[@neilb6029]

Some safety points on using lathes I learnt a long time ago. Always keep a hold of the chuck key in your hand until you have placed it down in a safe place. Before starting the lathe, stand to one side of the chuck in case you forget the first rule.

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

I also spin the chuck by hand every time before I start it ;)

[@DiscoFang]

Silicon rad hoses? Silicon is porous, def not recommended for coolant hoses outside of race applications.

[@Jake-im2lv]

Good thing this is a track car ... for racing 🙄

[@conga7754]

how about a little bash bar plate welded to the subframe to protect the rad hose....think thats the way id go.. keep it up great videos

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

That is the plan ;)

[@cybersurfer2010]

Key in the chuck = 😠

[@MrZooking]

oh Chuckeeeeeee

[@natemallory9141]

Great stuff

[@stuartd9741]

Something to consider with the engine cradle Jeff. I am wondering if that engine cradle is too strong/inflexible it may either crack or possibly pull itself from where it's fixed to the body/chassis moutings. The original subframe is made up flat metal pieces which Suggests to me a little flexibility to accommodate flex in the shell/body. How you have fixed the front of the subframe centrally and the stitch welding the gussets may actually work fine as it'll allow a little flex. Some of the initial torque of the engine will be taken up by the engine mounts. Impressive how fast this project is moving Jeff. When you first showed us that engine I thought nightmare! Actually nice and easy👍

[@tonyknight1272]

Yet another brilliant video, loving ur work ethics. Keep up the good work and rolling out these video's 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@thedecliningcyclist3321]

Your fabrication skills are getting so impressive - all the more so for being self taught 👍🏻 On the learning not to leave the Chuck key in the lathe, when I was an apprentice if the scary old toolmaker that taught us in the machine shop caught us taking our hand off the key when it was in the chuck he took whatever we were working on out of the lathe, ‘adjusted’ it in front of us with a large hammer then lobbed it in the scrap bin and made us start again from scratch 😳 - deffo concentrated what passed for my 16yr old mind 🤣

[@FredLarracuente]

Outstanding work so far Jeff! You give Boxster and Cayman owners with blown-up M96 engines an option (other than an LS swap) as well as a go-to series of videos to guide them through the process. Excellent!

[@gazzafloss]

Jeff, you're right onto that chuck key, just gotta remember to take it out of the chuck every time you remove the job, it'll happen. Keep up the good work.

[@Brendan.Wheatley]

Love your content mate! As a newly subscribed follower, I'm slowly going through your older uploads, and am enjoying them thoroughly! Cheers mate...

[@spagooter7901]

Coming from a boilermaker/welder Usually things are stich welded to save time and material. It's is better to have a long continuous run but depends on purpose, as long as you have at least welded all the corners it's should never break

[@andrewbaluk1663]

you could cut quite a large angled triangular piece off the corner of that subframe near the alternator and face it with a piece of 5mm plate to make it strong a gain could you not?. Would be strong and would give more options for round the world radiator pipes?

[@danielhughes9556]

As always, love your videos!!! Its fun to watch you hone your skills. I do hope you leak tested your weld on that y pipe you made!

[@Qgal5kap123]

Detachable reinforcement plate would add strength too mate :-)

[@timwhalan6417]

👍🏻🍺👏

[@baddage]

A couple liters of extra coolant you've gained could be a plus!

[@Paul_VanGo]

Toit! 😂👍🏻

[@bigkeg9173]

Serious question! What do you listen to when your working? 😁

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

Podcasts. Smoking tyre, Overcrest, Spike, etc.

[@bigkeg9173]

@@HomeBuiltByJeff cool, thanks, always wondered lol

[@l9jjp]

Another brilliant episode Jeff awesome work mate .

[@myturkishlife1777]

Another great video,,, really coming on well.

[@darrenpotter2553]

If the subframe was ally tube...could’ve run the coolant through it!!!! Sorted ;-)

[@stuartd9741]

I was thinking that! Thou the diameter is a little small might cause a restriction. Could still do it with the steel.

[@AdamDUrso]

For the power steering could use an electric TRW pump in the frunk to simplify the plumbing? Although it looks pretty good as is!

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

This is much simpler, cheaper and quicker :D

[@antn537]

This can't be the first time I'm first to comment on a video can it?!? Anyway, keep up the good work Jeff, looking forward to seeing this in action on track and thanks for promoting Colin Byrne's excellent channel too. As someone else said on his channel it would be great if the MCM guys gave you and Colin a shout out to give you some support. Cheers

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

Colins channel is really under appreciated that is for sure.

[@pascaljeske7307]

Very nice Video Love it 💙👍💙

[@craigwoodfolk3240]

Another great episode.

[@lawrencemercieca]

Are you worried about the oil pan rubbing the coolant hose? It looked like it was resting against it If it is an issue, could you extend the subframe closer to the side of the car to give that extra cm or 2?

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

I may tweak it as it is goiing to rub where it is, but I want to just get it all running to start.

[@peterferryman4905]

As always, a job well done! 👍👍😊😊

[@stevenwest1494]

I hope more videos on the Alfarrari will come around, as this car is kinda severely limited with its automatic gearbox and kinda a mess however you dress it up.

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

What automatic gearbox??

[@cassowaryind]

run hoses through the rear floor. It will be under the back seat. some gromets and you will never know.

[@nathanaeljonesmyfsd]

What back seat? Lol

[@stephensinkovic722]

If this is a race car why do t you just put the pipes up through the floor then come out at the height you need from the inside, if you ‘now what I mean

[@2BugsandaBack]

You don't want to be running coolant lines inside the car, especially not a race car where the engine is working hard all the time and is probably running hot anyway. If (when) they let go you want that boiling water as far away from you as possible.

[@blackbirdcycles]

Jeff can you reshape the engine mount on the corners for more room

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

You mean like I mentioned in the video?

[@samperras]

Well done

[@MrPatrik246]

Doesn't your lathe have cooling system, you are wasting a lot of lubrication oil this way

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

Nope. Most smaller lathes don't

[@MrPatrik246]

@@HomeBuiltByJeff that's a shame, I'm sure there is some better solutions for smaller lathes

[@janeblogs324]

You don't lubricate/oil on mill/lathes as they cut. You want just coolant. You can use metho as it evaporates super fast for cooling and won't cause rust. A spray bottle is best for maximum cooling too

[@5HANE_8ELL]

Tip: spray your Chuck an illumines colour

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

That is a quick easy tip. I like it.

[@5HANE_8ELL]

Chuck key*

[@vogs72]

Worked for my wheel nut key 😌

[@jimzucker]

sorry to repeat myself..... the Alfaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!

[@thescottishhammer7570]

Add a lanyard (like a keychain that goes around your neck) to the lathe chuck so it'll act as a flag so you won't forget to remove it. In the aviation industry, we use all kinds of checklists so we don't miss anything important...like extending our landing gear prior to landing...

[@brittenv1000]

We had to cut our school ties and stich them so if they got caught in the lathe they would snap before dragging your face into the lathe. I wouldn't personally want anything around my neck

[@thescottishhammer7570]

@@brittenv1000 I wasn't suggesting he put it around his neck, I was just using that as a descriptor.

[@brittenv1000]

@@thescottishhammer7570 fair enough 😁

[@brittenv1000]

Remove before flight

[@dudeonbike800]

But then if he forgets, the lathe kills him! That's about the DUMBEST idea you could have conjured! (Harsh I know, but Jesus, that's a terrible idea!) No, the bungee cord from above suggestion mentioned earlier is PERFECT. Simple, effective and potentially lathe and life-saving!