PM 727M CNC Electrical Wiring Part 1

[@atbglenn]

Nice Sam. Like I said before. This brings back memories when I wired Offset Web Presses way back when. Although I never used that wire channel stuff (whatever you call it). It was all about a million wire ties to make things look clean and tidy. Basically mil spec looking. Those were the days my friend, I thought they'd never end.... lol!

[@CNC4XR7]

+Glenn Martin Aww Yes I remember those panels still have a few around on some older equipment! I had thought about tying everything nice and neat like the old days but this wire channel gives a finished looked and makes things simple. Clad it brings back some memories Hopefully fond ones. be Safe, Sam

[@atbglenn]

+CNC4XR7 If I was still wiring equipment, I'd do exactly what you're doing. It's 10 times faster, and the end result looks great. Keep up the good work Sam. I always enjoy your videos :)

[@samd22]

Will do thank you.

[@darynbutler9390]

Really informative and very thorough with the video content. I just recently stumbled across your channel researching everthing CNC and the subscription to your channel is a great addition. thumbs up !!!!

[@CNC4XR7]

+Daryn Butler Thank you! I glad the information is helpful It can be a bit confusing at first. Be Safe, Sam

[@Zavtrakoff]

Properly, thoroughly and very beautiful! :-)

[@CNC4XR7]

+Alexey Zavtrakov Thank you, Good to know I'm on the right path. with the information provided. Be Safe, Sam

[@ericbeckers2673]

Spot on, again a A1 production ☺

[@CNC4XR7]

+Eric Beckers Thanks Eric, Good to know I'm on the right track.

[@FebrianGaluhWibisono]

hi, it's really clean and good wiring, could you tell me list part for your electronic? i just learning to build my own cnc control box, thanks

[@CNC4XR7]

I dont have a parts list check the video description

[@EZ_shop]

Looking good Sam!

[@CNC4XR7]

+Crivo152 Thanks Marco

[@dronesvisionsaeriennes]

Hello very nice video...Nice wiring too...but i don't understand why do you add your a Fotek Solid State relay ?? Philip

[@CNC4XR7]

the relay is solid state and is used for flood coolant.

[@dronesvisionsaeriennes]

Good evening, how did you wire the HDE filter... and how does the earth coming from the mains go back to the VDF? Thanks a lot Philip

[@CNC4XR7]

Hi Phillip, I explain most of the details in the video series.

[@SolubleSpork]

CNC4XR7, first off, thanks for all your videos. I have gone through all of this series because I am hopefully soon starting up a CNC build myself. I was curious what you used to create the wiring diagrams that accompany these videos. I am basing a lot of my main electrical system off of yours but with a few modifications of course and I want to clean up my hand sketched drawings. I liked that you were able to include the C11GS BOB with the DB25 connector pinout. I looked in to a few different programs/websites/apps but haven’t found one I really like quite yet. Being able to show the coil and contacts of a relay in separate locations like you have would help a ton with cleaning up the mess that is my schematic. The other thing I was curious about has to do with the estop switching 2 different voltages so closely. You have one set of contacts switching 120Vac mains power and another set of contacts is switching a 5V dc signal. For my project, I want to add a few things that will make this happen in a bunch of places and wanted to know if it gave you any trouble. I know best practice is to separate different voltages as much as possible, which it seems you end up doing by running two cables to your control panel.

[@CNC4XR7]

I use TinyCad a free software for my wiring the C11gs and other things were drawn with this software. The 110v on the Estop is the main power which when denergized drops the holding circuit for the machine power the 5 v is the estop line to the BOB

[@SolubleSpork]

Thanks for the fast reply. And with the two different voltages running through two different sets of contacts on the switch, you don't have any strange issues with crosstalk or anything?

[@CNC4XR7]

No I have not had any issues

[@SmallShopConcepts]

looking great, very professional!! just watch your ground loops, don't want to have to hunt down issues after the fact. are you using a line reactor on the input and output side of the VFD? if not would be a great addition. safer for your home power so you don't feedback into the panel and on the output side it smooths out the wave form and helps the motors run smoother and at lower temperature, we especially if the motor is bon inverter duty.

[@CNC4XR7]

+christopher polanski Thanks, Chris Yes I am using a EMI line filter on the incoming power to the VFD. Same as My G0602 project. VFD's are notorious for introducing noise on the AC line this helps with that. I will be keeping my Grounds isolated as much as possible. Be Safe Sam

[@russtuff]

Fantastic.

[@CNC4XR7]

+russtuff Thanks Rus, Hows the progress coming on the G0602?

[@russtuff]

+CNC4XR7 Haha, good question. Everything is running and I just completed my first customer order last week (had to make 500 parts, about 40 hours of machine time).  The biggest thing I need to finish is the spindle encoder. It is reading 16 pulse/rev to give LinuxCNC RPM information, but it doesn't work for threading because LinuxCNC needs a quadrature signal and I haven't bothered to finish it up (I didn't need it for this run of parts). I need to make a new encoder ring with an index pulse, better resolution (maybe 120 pulse/rev), and two more sensors out of phase for direction detection. I've considered buying a cheap quadrature encoder and running it off a custom belt from the spindle..... we'll see. The wiring to the steppers is messy and I intend to put them in a track like yours, but I haven't gotten around to it. I'll probably wait until the current setup breaks. Same with the limit/home switches. They are still in the prototype state, but since they work I probably won't change them until something breaks. What I really want to do now is build a gang plate and put one of these on it: www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=33909 I might do that next, then get around to the spindle encoder. How has yours been running?

[@CNC4XR7]

+russtuff it's running great I finally got the coolant leaks figured out every time I run a different part it migrates to somewhere else. I have a Idea for the Gang Tooling Check this out I think it will fit perfect. I ordered one just haven't got around to working with it. I think its a perfect fit. littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1664 Be Safe, Sam

[@russtuff]

+CNC4XR7 Great find! Yeah that's barely narrower and longer than the cross slide, so that should work perfectly. I'll order one too. My thinking was to make a thick spacer out of a big chunk of aluminum and drill two more holes in the cross slide and bolt it all together. Then I would bolt the Tormach holder to that aluminum block. I would also drill a pattern of holes on the underside of the aluminum block to reduce the weight a bit. This plate would work even better, and could go right on top of the aluminum spacer block.

[@CNC4XR7]

For the $ I figured it's a deal! I'm not sure of the spacer I was thinking more of placing it under the plate but I'm not sure as I haven't decided on the tool holders yet I would like it to be interchangeable with a tormach gang tool holder. I will most likely make my own.

[@steveaylor376]

Good call on the Kraus and Naimer - just got one off ebay shipped for $25 - seeing them listed for over $100 ... crazy. But to the real reason Im posting today ... Sam - this series is amazing - TY in advance ... but alas Ive stumbled upon a question ... In this video we've watched you wire up the coolant and PC outlets on the back of the box with Neutral and Grounds and the red wire from the SS Relay ... but you didnt film running the HOT / Blk to the PC outlet ... yet at 9:08 in your video - there it is ... Hot/BLK on the PC outlet - How did that get there and where is it coming from/going to ...

[@CNC4XR7]

Hi Steve take a look at part 2 .055sec in that may help you understand. The outlet is supplied the Black Hot 110v from a rocker switch on the control panel that gets wired up latter at the end of the pt.1 I do have a black wire connected and it just runs out the hole Its there just for reference and gets replaced when I do the control panel wiring.

[@CNC4XR7]

Take a look at part 4 that is where I send the 110v to the control box rocker switch that turns on the cpu outlet.

[@steveaylor376]

Many thanks Sam ... guess i kinda jumped the gun with my query ... I pressed on thru the next stages / videos and found where you changed that up in Part 4. All clear now - Thx! Mind if I also ask why you decided to change it up and go with the LiquiTight vs. Cannon plug[s] ? For me sourcing custom lengths of 5 and 8 conductor wire of decent quality and shipping is far exceeding costs of 2 or 4 quality, high amp, aviation power style connectors. Im in the process of using 2x 16awg 4 conductor SOOW runs with 16mm aviation connnectors ... re-mapped to your pin outs / connections. [ For the remote control box ] Asking to make sure Im not walking into trouble with this route. Thanks man

[@CNC4XR7]

Hi Steve, I used the 16mm Aviation connectors for the small gauge wire and the Cannon type for the bigger stuff the pins are bigger. check ebay you can fined them at a good price its all how you search. www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Male-Female-Aviation-Circular-Connector-4-Terminal-P20-4-Core-P20K6Q/311528938505?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Here I just purchased a 4 pin for my new box. For the 8 pin connector to the control box you have to go with a 32mm P32 connector which was to tall so I used a www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-inch-NPT-90-Degree-Strain-Relief-Cable-Gland-with-gasket-nut-New/281379032241?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Its not removable so if you have dont plan on needing to remove it you can go this route or use a P32 aviation connector.

[@steveaylor376]

So splitting the 8 wire up into two 4 pin 16mm plugs is not a viable alternative? 16 awg is too large for the 16mm aviation plugs or is the potential amperage/voltage from the control box wiring [ not the low voltage DIN stuff ] too heavy ?

[@williamhardin5254]

Nice to see the wiring started. I noticed that your sheet 1 of the wiring diagram doesn't show connecting to the main disconnect T2 and T3. I assume that's just a convenient place for you to tie the wires together before branching out to where they end up going. Is that correct?

[@CNC4XR7]

+William Hardin Yes You are correct Instead of bringing the Ground and Neutral down to the terminal strip and back up to the receptacles I just used t2 and t3 (which were not going to be used for power) as a terminal strip itself. and then down to the terminal strip it saved a little wiring. Be Safe, Sam

[@GAETANOIERA]

Salve. Una descrizione molto intuitiva anche per chi non sa la lingua. Potreste descrivere ed inviarmi tutto il materiale occorrente e dove acquistarlo? Grazie

[@CNC4XR7]

cnc4xr7.com

[@alexpd3398]

Hi! How did you split mains power so the whole machine needs just one outlet? I'm using 2 way screw terminals, but I'm looking for a cleaner solution. Thanks!

[@CNC4XR7]

the whole Control box is running on 1 20 amp 110v circuit.

[@louisthemilkman]

I feel dumb asking but where did you get that rotary disconnect switch? What brand? I'm having trouble finding a similar one.

[@louisthemilkman]

And I just figured it out. lol Kraus & Naimer

[@CNC4XR7]

yeah Try Ebay Thats where I found the one I have you can find deals.

[@louisthemilkman]

CNC4XR7 hey brother, I’m really sorry to bug you more. I’ve had my controller cobbed together for a while and you’ve inspired me to rebuild the control box with proper safety circuit etc. I see your feeding from a 20a outlet. I understand electricity enough to stay safe but I’m still learning so I’m a bit curious on your amp draw. Between my 48v PS (12a), my spindle driver (10a) I’m not sure how I’m going to feed it all from one 20a outlet. The coolant pump I’m trying to use needs 8.5a. I’m assuming these ratings are peak? What amp draw does your transformer and VFD pull that you can still connect a pump to the built in outlet in your controller box? Am I just not understanding current draw clearly? Sorry for the newb questions, I feel dumb asking but I’m just trying to clear up my understanding.

[@CNC4XR7]

I think you have a good understanding and your assumptions are correct. off the top of my head I do not recall the current ratings but they are peak. and you want to try and stay at around 80% of the breaker rating so around 16amps. I am pushing them to the limits for sure but it seems to be fine with no issues. each draw is not at the same time so it does not all add up at once and my peak does not reach the limit. I think my dc PS is 15a and my VFD is 8amp , the coolant pump is about the same. plus my CPU and Monitor.

[@louisthemilkman]

CNC4XR7 I have a single outlet 20a circuit and a 3 outlet 15a circuit in the garage and I’m having trouble figuring out an appropriate combination. The controllers 48v power supply alone trips the breaker on the 15a circuit but I believe part of that problem is that circuit is shared between the garage and the outdoor gfis. I had a working combination before I added in the coolant pump and now I keep going over the numbers trying to see if I can make it work. It kinda amazes me your running the PS, VFD, a pump AND the PC all on a 20a circuit but I guess I’m thinking of it from a peak power up load. I need to get a meter with a clamp for measuring current draw. I think that would help me wrap my head around what’s going on.

[@sandcrank]

Just to clarify, your VFD converts 115v 1 phase to 220v 3 phase? This entire machine runs off of 110v?

[@CNC4XR7]

Yes! It can be wired using 220v single phase as well, Be Safe, Sam

[@trottrr5057]

I downloaded the wiring diagram so I could follow along but many of the wires shown in the diagram on the utube video are not shown on the one I downloaded. Otherwise I am enjoying these videos.

[@CNC4XR7]

You are correct I only have the 110v wiring on that diagram. I was hoping that way no one would get confused. I'll update as I go along.