POINTING WITH LIME MORTAR - How to Rescue your House Walls

Pointing Tool - amzn.to/3pDA1zu
Tuck Trowel - amzn.to/3hajWiD
Hawk - amzn.to/3ysVO0o
Bucket Trowel - amzn.to/3wtgrIA
SDS Paddle Mixer - amzn.to/3jYeyAG
Lime from Lime Base - www.limebase.co.uk
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL
Our Patreon Page - / restorationcouple
Buy a Restoration Couple Mug - www.restorationcouple.com/shop/
£10 OFF ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection with the code TRC10 bit.ly/36yKVhY​
CONTACT US
[e-mail]
OUR SOCIAL NETWORKS
Facebook - / restorationcouple
KZbin - / therestorationcouple
Twitter - / restocouple
Instagram - / restorationcouple
OUR BLOG
www.restorationcouple.com/
#limerepointing #limemortar #stonewalls

[@PartridgeExteriorCleaning]

Another masterclass. Do you think you'll sell the house? So much love and attention has gone into it.

[@quintdewit4870]

What are you doing here mate 😂😂😂KZbin is a small place afterall

[@PartridgeExteriorCleaning]

@@quintdewit4870 :D love this channel, learn so much :D

[@paulnewman2115]

Ah I spent all last summer doing this to all our out buildings I was glad when I finished great satisfaction when it's done 🙂

[@suzi1980]

It's great seeing Will helping out on so many projects. I'm curious if he's learning a trade or something else ...

[@matgurd]

Try holding the hawk up to the wall as you point, tuck in and move along, should be a lot quicker, then do the perpendicular joints

[@Spencer_White]

Fantastic, limebase is also my local mechant. Really helpful 🤓👍 I have the whole house to do so these videos and tips are super handy! 😎🤘

[@vivaldi1236]

Superb work.

[@richardkerin1377]

Your some man for work Tim, credit to you 👍

[@sboothii4846]

I have just received 2 tonnes of lime mortar from Eden Lime Mortars and am about to start my own pointing next week having removed all the crappy old cement mortar. This video confirms everything I learnt on the Eden 1 day training. Very useful and a great job well done!

[@andrewmarshall4572]

Hi, how much is it by the tonne?

[@towerdave4836]

Just used some Eden hot lime. Just turns white when dry. Hopefully, will weather into something approaching light grey.

[@matthewmorgan24]

Superb job!

[@davidramsay6142]

As a RHer you should work right to left so you are compressing in the mortar with a left to right action with the pointing tools. My mason showed me and said he was hit on the head as an apprentice if he didn't work that way. Looking good a nice house hope you are watching the Denmark game now and as a Scot I am supporting England just for the record.

[@adelaideinvigilation5230]

Same with painting working left to right for right handers

[@cr-ew8od]

I really like that square tree

[@garethblake3941]

I believe that the Roman's would used lime mortar which apparently could of been aged for years. Keep up the good work and stay safe.

[@denisconor648]

Great stuff.

[@MrMultiH]

Bashing it with a brush also assists with increasing the surface area to improve atmospheric carbonisation after the hydraulic cure.

[@jimmydickson8854]

It’s a long tedious job you got that 1200 pound scaffolding will pay for its self

[@hughcowell3504]

Where can I go to for advice on an originally lime mortared two metre high sandstone garden retaining wall rebuild / repair? I am thinking of building up two courses of the sandstone blocks (variable depth blocks, from 10cm to 25cm) with a lime mortar (NHL5?), leaving a few days and then pour concrete level with the blocks to start the wedge back wall; leave several days and repeat.

[@andrewholcroft.1945]

Straight edged stone is a lot esier than the granite i deal with in Dartmoor. Great job though.

[@macleodstonemasonry6594]

Brother. After stippling the lime with your churn brush you're leaving a lot of the pointing key stroke marks. Little bit more wacky wacky. Deffo helps to catch it a bit softer as well, or strike some areas flat as you go.

[@jonny7491]

You still didn’t explain who Will is!

[@jockwalker24]

Yeah get him on camera and properly introduce him (unless he doesn't want to go on cam)

[@tentonhammer5469]

I think he's a relative. Nephew maybe. Im not a 100% on that

[@barrymichaels2663]

Did you find any old pointing that had been done on the building with just Portland cement and sand?

[@TheRestorationCouple]

Yes, this whole wall, hence why its all come out. 👍

[@csgowoes6319]

Nice, I'm planning a wall with nice reclaimed brick and laying it using regular cement mortar for the durability (and lower cost) but leaving it quite recessed and pointing afterwards with something lime-based and locally appropriate like you're doing, for the authentic look. Regular cement mortar looks so grim and grey apart from anything. Hoping someone will advise me on if that sounds like a plan.

[@darrens3]

If you're laying reclaimed bricks in cement the cement will cause spalling. I.e. the faces of the bricks will become brittle and delaminate in about 10 years with the frost and thaw effect. Mortar should always be more breathable and softer than the bricks and cement can't achieve either of those factors.

[@csgowoes6319]

​@@darrens3 Thanks for this heads-up, I have since looked into this a lot more and realised that, yes, I will definitely want to go with lime mortar. A lot of people in my area use the same reclaimed brick for decorative work and you can see they are just using cement mortar, and I haven't SEEN the problems you describe, these old bricks are actually really tough - a truck delivered some to me and just tipped them out onto the ground and there were no breakages. But still, I'd rather use lime anyway for the look, just got to learn to mix it properly, it's mostly hydrated lime powder we have access to around here, unless I want to start slaking lime myself, which I don't!

[@gary24752]

Do you send samples of the original mortar out to a lab to have it color matched? Why is some lime mortar very white?

[@eduardoac]

How do you remove the mortar excess from the stone after dry?

[@TheRestorationCouple]

You don’t really want any on the surface as it can leave marks however a churn brush will knock most of it off.

[@63boblondon]

hi,can you mix lime mortar and cement together,i am buying an 1880 cottage,and the chimney needs repointing,when i asked what it was going to be repointed with,he replied they would use a 50/50 mix-any thoughts

[@tkjazzer]

Looking for someone with experience with hot lime mix in Michigan, USA

[@mikede2331]

are your using putty or NHL, and how soon after pointing do you find you need to hit with brush

[@dpitt8713]

Depends on wind and temperature

[@krakenhackenla]

When doing all the building work do you then contact your local building control officer, to get a certificate proving all work is completed to the correct regs? I'm in the process of buying a house which I know the windows, couple of lintels, bathroom, kitchen need replacing. Just found out that if I replace the windows the local building control officer would be the one to sign the work off as being upto FENSA standards, which I'd need if I wanted to sell the house later on. It just seems a bit excessive constantly arranging a visit from the bco, or is that just the way things are?

[@rockboy93]

If you use a fensa registered window installer, you don't need building control to inspect. Only if your installer isn't fensa registered. If you are chasing lintels/ opening sizes or anything structural building control will need to be involved regardless

[@shandyooo]

That isn’t right. You don’t HAVE to have fensa standards. It’s up to a future buyer if they want a house without it. Same could be said for anything in a home. None of it is a requirement it just helps the house sale go through smoothly. Some solicitors might bring it up and make it a sticking point, others don’t.

[@rockboy93]

@@shandyooo "Do I need a FENSA certificate? Since 1 April 2002 in England and Wales, all double glazing installations need to be registered at the Local Authority to meet with Building Regulations - it is illegal to have installed double glazing in a property without a building regs certificate. In practice, this is normally achieved by using an installer who is (or whose firm is) a member of a a government authorised Competent Persons Scheme (CPS) of which the largest is FENSA (the Fenestration Self Assessment Scheme) . A FENSA member can legally self-certify and report the job to FENSA and the local building authority, after which you get sent a FENSA certificate."

[@shandyooo]

@@rockboy93 thanks, does this include work that is under permitted development?

[@krakenhackenla]

Thank for the replies. I understand that certain jobs done by professionals can come under the competent person thingy, but as most people doing DIY it's to save money, speed a job up by not having to wait till a tradesman is ready and sadly, from past experience, do a better job myself. The last house we sold the solicitor asked for paperwork regarding stud wall removal and installation, I can only assume for fire regs, in both instances the work had been carried out before we had bought it. I've watched a lot of the restoration couples videos and just wondered if they got the local building control officer to sign work off as up to standard? I'm capable of doing a lot of the work for our potential new house myself, but the paperwork side of it is an unknown to me. The garage will need a new flat roof, I want to change the up and over door to two barn doors, I want to add a standard door at the rear and brick up a side door, partial to full repoint maybe needed. Does all the above need a visit and approval from bco? It's difficult to have this conversation over KZbin comments, when I get the keys I'll probably have to contact bco/Council to find out what tune I have to dance to.

[@jobie3015]

How much of the house had been repointed with cement? How much of that have to removed and repointed with lime mortar?

[@TheRestorationCouple]

Just this wall fortunately. The good thing is that when it was done in cement they didn’t actually do it that well, if they had raked out the original lime deep and packed the cement mortar in it would have been a bigger job this time round. Generally they say around twice the width of the joint deep.

[@jobie3015]

@@TheRestorationCouple That's a small blessing then! I had thought they'd done the whole house and you had a huge horrible job ahead of you.

[@oddjobkia]

Question: would a mortar gun be of use here…

[@barrymichaels2663]

Personally mate I wouldn't bother with a mortar gun, it just takes up more time because they get clogged up at times.

[@devugadhvi9629]

What is thickness of this wall

[@TheRestorationCouple]

400-500mm

[@devugadhvi9629]

@@TheRestorationCouple cuboid sand stone good for new house construction

[@devugadhvi9629]

@@TheRestorationCouple 8 x 9 x 15 inch sand stone

[@towerdave4836]

Doesn’t matter what I do, the mortar ends up white once dried. I’ve used hot lime and also NHL 3.5 and with different aggregates . It ends up white and I end up having to wash with concrete remover and wash down with fresh water.

[@DanielOlivierArgyle]

From what I've read, that's where it's drying too fast and the lime is coming to the surface. I have a wall drying now and it's only started to go white in one corner where the hessian fell off over night. I've kept the hessian very damp

[@timcope8445]

It's the sand Try using sharp red sand

[@dougsaunders8109]

Does the lime not eat your aluminium hawk? I had a great new aluminium hawk went and got a plastic one as the lime I have dissolves aluminium

[@michaeljamesdesign]

Hawk to the wall!!!

[@DavePawson]

We don't learn much with 10x speed video?