Polaris Pulse Connector Tutorial For RANGER & RS1, and GENERAL! Links In Description!

I am no longer providing the kits as there are so many chinese knock offs out there since I started selling these kits. But I am still keeping this video to help those that need some guidance on how they go together. Be sure if you use the cheaper connectors that you coat the connections in Dielectric grease. They use aluminum terminals which deteriorate rapidly in the UTV environment, The Delphi terminals I used to sell were original quality gavaneal steel which fights of early corrosion but they are more expensive.

[@jayanddenissejones6648]

Great job! Very informative and super helpful!!

[@Longslyde1]

Thanks guys! Glad they helped! ;)

[@southlida]

Thanks for the video. Just wired up 2 light bars using this video.

[@Longslyde1]

Awesome! Glad it helped!

[@jerryleesweat9948]

Just used your video to hook up several different accessories. What would be the best way to have power on the pulse bar at all times. So my radio doesn’t shut off when I turn the buggy off? Any ideas?

[@Longslyde1]

There's a couple things. Is this the roof bar or the front bar first of all? If it is the factory ROOF bar accessory, you need to modify it because that whole bar dies when you turn the key off. To do this, simply run a 8 gauge wire from the battery to the positive lug of the ROOF pulse bar with a 40 or 50 amp fuse in that line right at the battery. Do not remove the factory wire that is there already. that is not necessary.This will make the bar act exactly as the front bar does. It will have constant power on the positive lug as well as still having the accessory key-on power wire in the center of the pulse plugs. Then, to keep the radio powered all the time, place the wire that goes to the center position of the pulse plug and wire it together with the bottom wire (constant positive +) of the pulse connector. Now it will be live all the time. Hope that helps!

[@reddirtwarriors4846]

Thanks much! This really helped me better understand the Polaris Pulse bar!

[@Longslyde1]

Glad it helped! :)

[@erikcoolidge5268]

How do I wire this style plug with three wires to a wiring harness with two wire connectors to battery posts? What do I do with accessories wire from plug? Any help is appreciated!

[@Longslyde1]

You will have to rewire the harness slightly. If you subscribe tol my channel and look at some of the other posts, I believe I have it outlined with the full wiring layout. If you cant find it, let me know and I'll redo it here also. I'm stuck in meeting at work here today so it may be a bit. Thanks

[@RZR0311]

Did all that now I’m connecting my switch and lights we’re does the switch middle wire connect too for key on ? Would it be to the relay or the toggle switch ?

[@Longslyde1]

Middle wire goes to the switch input. Output of the switch goes to pin 85 of the relay to activate it. That way when you shut the key off, the relay deactivates.

[@melindagoutremout8435]

I have lighted mirrors, with a fuse and relay. Do I keep these on there if I’m using these connectors to hook to a busbar?

[@Longslyde1]

Yes you would but you may need to do some wiring to make them work with the key on. If your harness has 2 wires only, power and ground, then you will need to break the relay out of the harness to make it operate correctly. Let me know if your harness is only a two-wire set up. I'll gave to direct you to one of my posts on the forums for a tutorial.

[@dannyelam1631]

Is the 18 Ranger 900XP equipped with the Pulse system or just the 1000?

[@Longslyde1]

I haven't seen any old body style machines with the Pulse bar. You will have the 3 stud terminal bus bar. If you really want to add the Pulse bar, you can easy enough. It's just a 3 wire hookup. The only advantage would be a cleaner looking install if you have a bunch of accessories.

[@ryanpreston5721]

ok since this is the only in depth video ive found on the pulse bar... im adding one to my 2018 ranger xp900... any idea what connector i need for the accessory wire to jump from the power distribution block?

[@Longslyde1]

Delphi Metripack 280 single female connector with the proper terminal and weather pack so you can assemble it to your accessory wire.

[@ryanpreston5721]

@@Longslyde1 Thank you sir! i been looking for 3 days!

[@Longslyde1]

@@ryanpreston5721 No problem! Have a good one!

[@PNWLiving1725]

So with the 3 wires, I have my light on my mirrors with just two wires, black and red. the connect I bought has a blue wire. So the pulse has red, black and blue. Do just connect one blue, one red, the the black to ground?

[@Longslyde1]

If all you need is constant power and ground, then yes you can do that. The middle wire is key-on power and can handle no more than 10 amps on that wire across the whole bar. It is designed to trigger relays only. The red wire at 14 gauge can handle up to 20 amps safely.

[@Middles001]

Can I hook my winch up to the pulse busbar on a 19 northstar?

[@Longslyde1]

Not to the connectors, but you can draw the power from the main positive supply lug and ground the winch to the chassis.

[@canyonsteves2121]

Hello. This vid is a few yrs old but look like info still stands. I just bought a 21 Pro Xp 4 and my first upgrade is mirrors with led's and im trying to avoid tearing the machine appart to get to battery terminals under the center counsel. Can i use pulse bar with your connectors with my mirror lights and lighted whips that are in the mail??

[@Longslyde1]

Yes you can use the connectors to run positive, ground, and ignition positive. However if you only need to get to the BATTERY cables without going down to the battery, you can tap those right at the Pulse Bar if that helps you.

[@canyonsteves2121]

@@Longslyde1 that does help... the pulse connectors you sell on ebay for ranger....can i use those for pro xp4? Is my pulse bar different than yours?

[@Longslyde1]

@@canyonsteves2121 I believe they are the same bar. I do not sell these on ebay anymore since I sold the OEM parts and they were more expensive. The knockoffs will work but be sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on them. They are aluminum and will react with the steel tabs in the pulse bar. The oem Delphi are definitely better, but it seems people wanted cheap options and I stopped stocking them. The assembly will be the same though. 👍

[@rapidone607]

can you provide a link to acquire these connectors that you showed here, Like you I prefer doing it with out splices

[@Longslyde1]

I made these custom with oem components at the time. Then the China knockoffs came to the scene and I quit handling them because everyone thought I was overpriced not knowing the quality difference. So you can search EBAY for polaris pulse connector and you'll find some options. Just remember if you get the cheaper ones, they skimp with aluminum terminals to keep cost down and they will corrode FAST if you don't pack them with dielectric grease so make sure you get some of that too. Thanks!

[@Motorjock45]

What’s the crimping tool that you are using?

[@Longslyde1]

Delphi crimping tool. If ypu google Delphi Packard crimping tool, you will find a few different models...👍

[@harleyguy932]

I noticed the “key” wire, middle, turns into a ground when the key is off. I noticed it with my meter on continuity. One lead to ground, one to middle wire, turns to ground w key off. 12v with key on. Weird huh?

[@Longslyde1]

Yeah might be how the factory polaris relay is wired for that circuit.

[@Gonefishing701]

is it ok to just have the positive and negative wires connected? im mounting a gps and there is no accessory wire.

[@Longslyde1]

Absolutely. You can hook to accessory power if you want the GPS to work with the key or to battery power if you want it alive all the time. Just use my weather pack to plug the hole with a small dab of silicone to keep water out. Good to go!

[@Gonefishing701]

awesome thanks for the info!

[@Longslyde1]

Jared Pokrzywinski Anytime!

[@shawnb5812]

It says they are no longer available on Ebay? Are you still going to sell them?

[@Longslyde1]

Sorry, I am out and the ones I get are exact factory matches with galvanized steel contacts. With all of the cheaper aluminum versions out now on Ebay, I have not restocked. The aluminum styles will work but make sure you pack them full of dielectric grease to slow down corrosion issues.

[@swissspeedshop]

@@Longslyde1 can the galvanized steel connectors be bought

[@mikelittle45]

I have a question if ya don't mind me asking...,I have a 19' General with the pulse bar...I installed a 200watt light bar, and Everytime I hook it up through the pulse bar I blow a fuse....Im just tryin to figure out what I'm doin wrong....Will these pulse bars handle that many amps?...If I hook the power into the continued power to the pulse bar plug, the ground to the negative part of the plug...,It should work right?....I have the right harness, inline fuse, and relay hooked to it....So if I hook it up like that, should it work?....Thank you for your time

[@Longslyde1]

Sounds like you wired the positive into the accessory wire for power (center pin of the pulse bar). I'm guessing your light bar harness came with two wires only and you want to make it work with the key. If so, rewiring the harness is necessary. It sounds scary but it's really not. You'll have to take the harness apart and wire the switch and relay like this: For the switch: WIre Pin2 (Input of the switch) to the center Pulse wire (this is the accessory or key on power) Wire pin 3 (output of the switch) to Pin 85 of the Relay Ground pin 1 for the led light to work in the switch (if the switch is not lighted, you will not have this wire) Switch is wired at this point and you need to wire the rest of the relay like this: Wire pin 86 to ground Wire pin 30 to the bottom wire of the pulse bar (constant positive) Place your fuse in this wire somewhere. Wire pin 87 (NOT 87a if your relay has one) to the positive input of the light bar. Wire the Ground wire of the light bar harness to the top pulse bar wire ( pulse bar ground) Done! It will operate with the key on and not blow fuses anymore. Holler if you have any problems.

[@mikelittle45]

Just wanted to tell ya thank you so much and I appreciate it....And, your right I tied into that accessory spot on the plug....I did that because I have another 120 watt light bar on my bumper plugged in that way and it's works fine, but I guess thats because of the less amps....And my Polaris dealer told me to just hook it up with a harness with an inline fuse and relay on it, into the pulse bar plug....Just make sure that the positive is hooked to the constant power of the plug, and negative to negative.....Not counting others tellin me other ways to do it also....So, this pulse bar is alittle confusing to me, lol....And I seen your videos and you seem to know what your doing and know about this stuff....So, that's why I wanted to ask you....Thank you so much and I really appreciate it...

[@mikelittle45]

If ya don't mind, could I also ask a other question which is probably not the smartest on my part....But, what size fuse do I need use between the constant power and relay?

[@Longslyde1]

@@mikelittle45 for any fuse, you would have to figure out the amps the accessory take. So take your 200 watt light bar for example, you take 200 watts and divide it by 12 to get amps. In this case 16.67 amps, round up to the nearest amp fuse. So you need a 20 amp fuse.

[@mikelittle45]

I just want to thank you for taken time out of your day to help me, it really means alot....Thank you so much

[@barryborden7494]

Whats the name of that particular crimoing tool

[@Longslyde1]

It's a generic tool. Nothing fancy really needed. If you search "Delphi Crimping Tool" on Google, you'll find it. 👍

[@timbrown1334]

How do i get some of these connectors?

[@Longslyde1]

I have the links in the description below the video for kits and completed pigtails...thanks!

[@matthewarnold8705]

Do you still have these connectors available?

[@Longslyde1]

Sorry, I don't. I actually sourced them directly from Delphi to keep everything OEM and sold many of them. Once the chinese knockoffs came into play, people thought mine were too expensive and I didn't sell as many. I had to purchase supplies in bulk to keep the price down but wasn't turning them fast enough. If you do purchase the cheaper ones, keep in mind they use aluminum connectors (Not Galvanneal steel, like OEM) and will corrode very fast with the reaction of aluminum to steel. That may render your pulse bar ruined in the long run. Pumping them full of dielectric grease will help prolong their life, but OEM Delphi is the way to go.

[@HeyItsAsmus]

Do you have a way to be contacted for a quick conversation?

[@Longslyde1]

If you go in my channel, I do have an email contact in there.

[@dwightstebner2345]

Is thee an actual name of the connector

[@Longslyde1]

It will be listed as Polaris Pulse Connector and/or pigtail.

[@harleyguy932]

I noticed the

[@boydhvac7940]

You dont know what is all run off of the accessory fuse and relay on a 2019 ranger xp crew high lifter by chance eh? My acc fuse just blew and I've disconnected 12v outlets, winch controller and all other obvious accessories on that circuit and I still have a short to ground somewhere. Cant find a diagram online... only 25hours on machine with no abuse

[@Longslyde1]

The true accessory fuse should only be supplying the pulse bar in the front. If it consistently popping the fuse and you have nothing plugged onto that bar, trying putting a load in the fuse slot (I usually make a headlight or bulb of some sort) and start by disconnecting the pulse bar at the positive input connection FOR THE CENTER TERMINAL. That usually the wire with the delphi connector on it. Not the positive battery feed wire. If the light still stays lit, work your way back on that positive wire all the way back to the fuse panel. Sounds like you either have a rubbed wire or a bad pulse bar. Also, Just make sure you dont have anything that draws more than 10 amps from the center poles of the pulse bar. That is only to run relays. And that pole is technically the one that the fuse protects. Hope that helps!

[@boydhvac7940]

@@Longslyde1 we'll giver a shot! Thank you!!

[@dickchiggas1514]

Be careful if you are trying to get 18 gauge to work with these. Not so easy for insertion.

[@Longslyde1]

Buckwheat yep, these are set for 14 and 16 gauge.

[@Longslyde1]

also if anyone is using lighter gauge wire, you can just push the weather packs into place with the lock. just start all three into the connector and then push the lock into place, it will push the pins into lock position.

[@gtfate]

@@Longslyde1 Hello sir..............................any chance on a pm ?? On the general lighting project, how did you get the T3 lights to dual mode Hazard/Turn signal ?? The T3 is a single mode light correct ??

[@Longslyde1]

@@gtfate yes that is correct. It is handled through the Feniex flasher. If you are subscribed, ypu should be able to see the whole 5 part series. You end up setting all the lights to "constant on" and let the flasher control the strobe and signals based on what you program each mode to on the flasher.

[@gtfate]

@@Longslyde1 My apologies.......I am subscribed, I must have missed that part in my haste !! I sent you a pm on the general forum also. Please forgive my nagging !!

[@scrfirefighter]

It would be nice if you didn't go off camera every time you'd try to show us a task.

[@Longslyde1]

Two legs good; Four legs bad. Had the camera set for close viewing so to line up the wire stripper and the tool I had to look at it closer and it went off camera. Sorry for the inconvenience, but nothing important was missed...