Poulan 5020 Shakedown Run!

[@PolitischeImmunität]

In Germany these are sold as McCulloch saws this one is the CS50S. They are being sold with 18" bars here with 325 chain! I own one since a few month. For the money it offers a lot of power and isnt too heavy! I like it! :)

[@patrickschramm2796]

I own one too. Perfect for softwood. Or if you have to cut wood occasionally. Money talks...😉

[@modarkthemauler]

Sold as a McCulloch CS 50S here in Europe. Does not come with carb limiters. Takes a while to break in but a nice homeowner saw.

[@rmcjr5206]

Where to start? First, if a carb requires more fuel that's a sign that the carb is oversized, not undersized. A smaller carb will have higher velocity through it, greater venturi effect, and so needs less jet (pressure differential across the jet is higher). More evidence that the carb is oversized is that it loses power quickly when the revs drop. That's typical over-carbed behavior. However, being as I own one of these, I can tell you that they aren't over-carbed and instead your symptoms reflect that something isn't right with your saw. Since I'm sure you have the air filter good and clean, and it doesn't sound like it has a hanging idle (indicative of a leak at the carb boot, unless you've got the low fuel cranked so far out that it's masking that symptom), I'm going to guess the compression isn't where it should be. Maybe pull the muffler and look in the bore, I wouldn't be surprised if you find it's scored up. Second possibility is that the flimsy AV is keeping you from opening the throttle all the way. It's worth looking at the carb while you pull the throttle and seeing what it is doing. In any case, if it's not running right with a 450 Rancher then there's something wrong. There are plenty of valid complaints about this saw (handle is flimsy, AV is floppy, air filter doesn't seal well and gets clogged very quickly, stock bar is a weird 70DL 20 incher, etc, etc) but being weak relative to other 50cc saws isn't one of them.

[@TheF1shh]

I'm glad you got that. I have one and it's fine. I did a muffler mod and gapped the plug and it made it better. It's a strato saw so I haven't modded it any further.

[@rogerford4427]

I have one of those. Plug .27 gap, take screen out of muffler, drill 3 3/8 inch holes in air intake an, drill 3 3/8 holes in muffler. Chain, soft woods keep rackers low, hard woods rackers high. Makes a lot of power,when you get the carb adjusted 🥹

[@KainKustomGarage]

Man, I didn't realize there was such a variety of new saws out there still today! That's awesome, I figured we had way more variety back in the day, Awesomeness! 😊👍👍(Nice Shirt!)

[@jackfrosty79ify]

New 50cc rips

[@georgehopper4535]

That looks like the old muffler design. I just tuned a newer 5020 for a guy and it runs excellent. On the 4218 a few years old the muffler was so restrictive it blew out the crank seals and cyl. base sealer. Also replace the metering diaphragm with walbo spiral diaphragm. The 4218 takes the same kit as the wild thing. Use stock metering arm and needle. Raise arm height to at least flush or slightly above carb. body.

[@bennyblanko3]

Mine rips pretty good, but usually sits on the garage floor, as I have a bunch of other better saws. Mine was a hollow can, but I opened it up a little, can't remember maybe 3/4" hole under the deflector, and that helped a little. Also, super hard to tune. Bought a new carb, fuel lines, and added 3 bond to the gasket surfaces of the plastic intake, and that helped a lot. Make sure the bulb isn't leaking/sucking air too. I haven't ported it yet - but it is already a screamer, and likes to spin, so I wouldn't raise the exhaust roof any. I know, it's a piece of junk, but to be fair, it has cut plenty of wood. But, mostly just for fun - if I want to really work, I'll use a different saw.

[@artpatronforever]

Maybe swap out the purge bulb with a jetski plunger primer. Rubber purge bulbs have their issues. EPA regs have done a lot to preserve fuel in storage since the fuel system is a closed loop and pressurized not vented. It is basically air tight like plunger pumped camp stoves and lanterns that are pressure fed. The recirculating fuel loop keeps the fuel pump from getting a hernia, but the diaphragms will still become bulged from the fuel system pressures. One of the mods I have rarely seen mentioned is to add bidirectional pressure and vacuum relief so the saw is restored to the type of operation used before EPA regs were implemented. The one time I saw this reported is by a lumberjack who had added a tank vent line riser from the fuel tank connected to an Echo type breather for vacuum relief through its built in viton duckbill and this was on one side of a T that had a second viton duckbill valving the exiting direction excess pressure so the fuel system pressure limits to plus or minus the slight amount of pressure needed to pop open either viton duckbills, maybe a couple of psi. Doing this allowed for the metering diaphragm to better do its job and the saw reportedly performed better after the mods. What was done is to reverse engineer the EPA changes and return the saw to pre-ban status. A purge valve contains a viton duckbill and can be installed on the T fitting opposite the Echo type vent to function as the pressure relief for the fuel tank. So that is the hack that will get EPA demons out of a chainsaw.

[@kalebbillig3472]

Maybe you should return the carb adjustments back to factory recommended settings and then set 1 variable at a time… set the idle > set low > then set the high When you start cranking those carb adjustments, you are messing with 3 variables and it is like trying to crack encryption to get it back to functioning properly

[@MrJeepfreak1972]

I agree on the saw not being recommended for anyone. The neighbor gave me one, that was almost new, to do whatever I wanted with. He had three of them. I muffler modded it advanced the timing and gave it back. Ended up having to put the timing back. It's the most pathetic saw for that cc class I've ever ran. I wouldn't pay $50 for a new one now that I've ran, not only one, but all three of his.

[@aaronpowell4885]

They are definitely finicky tuners. Mine didn't have any limiter caps either. Opened up outlet of muffler on mine and (probably placebo effect) it might've, maby helped it a little😕 I really wish husqvarna never employed strato into the homeowner line of saws! Excited to see if you find any gains👍🏻 as you said, I really want to like these saws😅

[@alexstromberg7696]

They are tuned very lean from factory, often halv a turn works. Have to tune tons of these.

[@timothybyrom5560]

Ain't very big around, but it sure is short,and it don't work too good.

[@mattfleming86]

Nice AvE vibe there

[@EcSsAwS]

Some guys run 3/8 LP on those. Much more fitting than normal sized 3/8

[@alexstromberg7696]

They work best with .325

[@CutterCH]

My Husqvarna 435 had that same issue. Took forever to get the stumble out. My low jet is 3 and 1/4 turns open. High is at 1 turn open. Problem solved there. Just took a while to figure it out. The 435 is touchy when it's tuned, just like that saw you have.

[@novicelumberjack]

I'll at least do a muffler mod to this saw, maybe then it will tune easier. But thanks for the heads up on settings that worked for you.

[@CutterCH]

@@novicelumberjack No problem. You'll get worked out.

[@tiagogomes2857]

Please do a muffler mod and see what changes

[@chapsmaketory3960]

Haha.."quit buying this shit" best chainsaw review evaah!!..

[@novicelumberjack]

Yeah. If only we could reach the masses and let them know...Maybe then Husky would put out some decent Poulans.

[@artpatronforever]

@@novicelumberjack If the metering diaphragm has been wet with non ethanol fuel for 2 years, it will be crunchy and need to be replaced for better performance. It is also good to replace fuel lines and primer bulb even though they may still work they are close to failing also. Good oiling should be confirmed and chain tightness should not be excessive. The power band is narrow and near the top end so these saws have two useful speeds, idle and wide open. It helps the mid range some to run the low mixture towards the rich and pick up the idle a bit using the idle screw like you were trying. There is some overlap for the low and high mixture settings in the mid range where an interaction occurs during transition from low speed to high speed. So there is some algebra done on setting mixtures as a compromise.

[@petropete3122]

$40 and $70. Where are you getting all the deals? Tks for sharing. May pick one up now for a good price.

[@bentwedgestanleybrand5818]

I paid $20 for two of those 50 20 poulons and they're still sitting on the shelf.

[@joshuajohnson4396]

Looks like it has alot of potential for gains

[@woofy548]

I owned this saw... They're good for awhile, but the cheap parts catch up to you very fast. The clutch is junk, and the carb won't hold a tune. I sold mine at a garage sale, it was a piece of shit.

[@Lilman3000]

These have husqvarna stamps on them. At least mine does. I've bucked prob 30 trees with mine. 3 chains, no wear on the bar at all. This thing oils good. I modded the muffler and gap the plug. Cuts better than my 029 stihl w a 20" bar also.

[@MrJeepfreak1972]

I'm waiting for the poulan 5020 beats the Ms 400 race. 😂

[@novicelumberjack]

Now that is one that I would probably need to doctor the footage in order to make happen. This thing is a turd!

[@frankmoynagh7423]

Take out spark arrestor drill.3 holes in exhaust drill 4 small holes behind air intake top cover .use redex in two stroke mix with oil.saw will start first second pull and won't bog down .

[@blademan6075]

You’ve been itching to get a Poulan Pro 5020 av or a chainsaw in general? If you were itching for a Poulan specifically then you are a man of extreme patience and tolerance! Please give a 1 year update for this saw if your sanity is still intact. LOL! It says 50cc but it is not set up to work like a 50cc. I found that a 32cc Stihl works circles around it all day long. You were correct saying that the carb is too small for the saw but beyond that, there is no way that this saw should have a 20” bar on it. A 16” bar and chain might be more suitable but this saw has no low end grind to it. I was given one for free because the original owner had so much trouble with it so I experimented with it for a while but ultimately it sits on a shelf in the barn. They look nice!! The design is very attractive but performance is very poor. Well, happy cutting.

[@Doc-Cole_Trickle-of-Chainsaws]

The good, the bad and the ugly. You win some .... 👍 Big Guy!

[@lonnieholbert8898]

I caught a huge amount of flack 20 years ago when we bought my Wild Thing. Only after 20 years and getting to run "big" "good" and to me big$$$ saws I agree, they are significantly different machines.

[@crazyfeller5704]

Sounds like my Poulan pro blower. That has a converter, wonder if that does too.

[@artpatronforever]

Is it possible there could be a stuck or soot fouled ring? Remove plug. Bring the piston up near, but not quite all the way to TDC. Using an eyedropper, fill about half the top end space with Sea Foam and then the other half of the space with Xylene. Fill the space in the top end completely until it is running out spark plug hole, engine tilted level. Return the spark plug and snug it down so the engine is hydrolocked with that solvent mixture, and by hand rock the flywheel back and forth working the Sea Foam and solvent mix into the ring. Let the saw sit for few minutes and repeat the procedure. At first the liquid will probably just sit there in the top end and won't drain, but after it soaks awhile and loosens up the ring, it will begin to leak past the ring slowly when the soot is softened up in the top end. With the plug removed the saw can be tilted and the dirty solvent can be drained out through the exhaust port and open spark plug hole, pulling the starter rope a few times to help blow out the nasty solvent that will be like black ink from the carbon crud it softened up and washes away. Reinstall the plug and run the saw until the smoke clears and this treatment may improve the way the saw runs.

[@andybecker2693]

These are probably the worst homeowner saws because your average homeowner is not going to know how to make them run correctly or at all. I used to see a lot of these in the “return/refurb” for a lesser price that was still too high. For a homeowner, the Echo saws are a lot better for a little more money.

[@lancehrycko4408]

Muffler mod, spark plug and tune they run good for a cheap saw

[@brandonblankenship5293]

So which is better for the homeowner, the 20" Craftsman or the 20" Poulan?

[@RobertNES816]

I have an older version of this saw from 2010. It has different looking cosmetic differences like all the plastics are different and there's allot more yellow used. Mine doesn't have that stumble off idle. It just rips through anything. But having said that it's still not crazy powerful for what it is. I think my Husqvarna 435 is actually more powerful.

[@Apalm12]

Trying to find the carb screw while running is the worse!

[@tiagogomes2857]

That chainsaw looks like the McCulloch cs50 that we have in Europe selling brand new

[@novicelumberjack]

I believe it is the same saw. I know over there, you have a couple decent McCullochs. You have the same thing as the Husqvarna 435 and 445 I think. Decent homeowner saws at least. Not throw aways.

[@ScrewdriverTUNING]

🤣 Blah hahahaha 😂my first saw was a homelite 3514c in 2012 for cutting bushes 😅 I got pretty lucky it’s a little ripper. Only thing done to it was exhaust mod. Traded it for a 025 sthil. Wish I had it back 😂

[@andrewschris7]

Do a muffler mod and open it up. It's too restricted.

[@dominikw.6606]

Hello, what is the maximum rpm for the saw? greetings from Germany👍

[@wetonwet3655]

So do i open the spark plug gap? Mine has trouble restarting. And when it first warms up takes a second to get to high rpm. I feel its under powered because it sucks no gas.

[@Houseworksaws]

That saw right there is how Husqvarna gets EPA credits lol.. sell some choked down pos like that to the masses and helps them put better pro models out.

[@jimholz1102]

Gotta love those "oxypower" strato engines, the more they sell, the more Husky 5 series XPs can be sold.

[@alexstromberg7696]

@@jimholz1102 the 5 series is also a stratos

[@z1berzerker]

EPA SUCKS... OPEN IT UP 👍😎 Let her breathe 😉

[@mattfleming86]

You're absolutely right. My 4620 backup backup saw would eat that for lunch. Actually a nice little saw. That thing needs help. PORT THE SHIT OUT OF IT :-D

[@brianlurten3028]

Good looking saw. I almost bought one for $50. I like the Ram, I did buy one of them, a 2015 Bighorn and love it

[@chainsawcanuck]

Always see a ton of those 5020 on marketplace dirt cheap, all say "needs tune up"

[@bentwedgestanleybrand5818]

Hey buddy I have two of those chainsaws sitting on a shelf.

[@ToddAdams1234]

Take the plug gap BACK down to .020” and then the tuning process will go easier. That “funny thing” concerning the saw pushing back was from the rakers to low. Rakers aren’t meant for cleaning chips, they are meant for dictation of “thick” that the chip IS.

[@novicelumberjack]

Bar was warped. Rakers are good. The Vanguard chains have a very different raker. They are designed to help clear a path. I'm pretty sure I read it on the oregon site. I'm gonna go look again.

[@ToddAdams1234]

@@novicelumberjack I guess that it’s possible for that chain. On my longer bars you don’t want to have rakers that low if you’re gonna be encountering wood that’s close to as big in dia as the bar.

[@paulmcreynolds1774]

I've got a Poulan wild thing 42cc that cuts better than that. Do a muffler mod and open up the intake air and it should make a big difference

[@mr.somebody1493]

Emissions standards, that's the problem.

[@Mickocarbomb]

Its funny how Poulan is US still but McCulloch has almost no US market it seems. Least where i live.

[@stevenkinnison8044]

Those saws should have came factory with a .325 pitch bar and chain instead of 3/8.

[@jimmycarter9099]

Muffler mod adjustment open the carburetor up after the mod

[@hillbilly4christ638]

I drilled five 1/4" inch holes in the muffler, pulled the limiters, fiddled with the cab adjustment and now it is a screamer. Not a bad saw. If I can find another I will try porting and a bigger carb. There is some potential in this saw. The big problem is the EPA.

[@jimmycarter9099]

@@hillbilly4christ638 that’s great

[@artpatronforever]

Needs more nitro in the fuel mix

[@jeffreyhagelin5927]

How about trying a lower gear ?

[@PeachState112]

It’s really a shame it’s such a dog, the saw has a pretty nice aesthetic. Hopefully you can get it to perform.

[@novicelumberjack]

I agree. It looks great and I would love for it to be awesome. It just isn't.

[@terrycalvert7812]

I got a dewalt 60 volt battery saw that will cut faster than that thing does!!

[@coltonlee2874]

How many turns on L and H screw?

[@EcSsAwS]

That’s a irrelevant question Temperature humidity elevation all affect the tuning What he has this at. Most likely won’t work for you. Unless y’all are neighbors

[@jacobnelson9144]

If you have one sharper than the other you'll get crazy cutting

[@novicelumberjack]

I'm pretty sure the bar is bent or twisted. As soon as the top of the bar entered the cut, the top cutters were hitting the log and pushing back.

[@jimmycarter9099]

It’s a good saw 😊 tweet it

[@jurpikag]

Maybe throw a 325 16” bar/chain combo?

[@novicelumberjack]

Definitely. Gotta find what clutch fits it. The Poulan clutch listed for this model only comes in a 3/8 sprocket drum.

[@modarkthemauler]

@@novicelumberjack 574521501 is the .325 clutch drum part number for the European version of that Poulan.

[@Yeetyeet-bc5kc]

Loosen the chain abit It will come up on rpms better

[@hillbilly4christ638]

Do a muffler mod and you will have a new saw.

[@FredColberg-jk5yp]

The weird is the dude adjusting shit he doesnt have a ear for

[@Hambonebodi]

I used old poulans forever , i love them , i wouldn't recommend new model poulans to anyone, even someone who didnt have one , its a strato saw , it sucks , they run and saw poorly , i will never buy another poulan , any of the china clone saws will tear it a fresh one , but put the blame where it is due , Husqvarna, they cant have something else they manufacture competing with the premium products, poulan ceased to exist when husky bought them out .

[@kevinbeck6419]

You just using a husky saw

[@jackfrosty79ify]

Hot rod it

[@Apalm12]

It needs a muffler mod

[@kraftzion]

A muffler modded 4620 will smoke it.

[@Reece634]

Run a mcchulloch 3200

[@blademan6075]

A Stihl 291 would also be a better option but an Stihl MS180c is a 32cc and it’s produces much more power than this saw.

[@normdickson2438]

The raker on a chainsaw is your depth of cut it’s how much wood your teeth chew lol go buy a real saw

[@novicelumberjack]

I have plenty of real saws Norm, just playing. And on this Vangaurd chain, the rakers are bent over, in an attempt to better clear the kerf. Of course, they also control the depth of cut.

[@artpatronforever]

@@novicelumberjack Get a magnifying glass and see every other raker is actually a scooper, first one rakes and next one scoops LOL

[@jasontucker5727]

Muffler an chain

[@Lilman3000]

With the muffler opened up and plug regapped mine cuts better than my 029 super.

[@Lilman3000]

The poulan has a county line full chisel chain. And my 029 has stihl chisel chain. Both 20" bars. Poulan has more torque

[@Lilman3000]

I've dropped 4 big oaks. And bucked at least 20 face cords with it. Payed $150 at the flea market and it was brand new.

[@Lilman3000]

Mine revs and hits a limiter

[@dusty1498]

How much did you open the muffler up?

[@jeffreymccargar5959]

It's junk.goober

[@novicelumberjack]

Yep. And yep. Thanks for watching, dork.

[@chapsmaketory3960]

Haha.."quit buying this shit" best chainsaw review evaah!!..