Power Endurance in Climbing: How to Train it Effectively, Different Methods

[@ManitheMonkey]

Still pumped as hell.

[@chloegreen3152]

Thanks for the videos! Really the most helpful and detailed climbing tips videos I've seen :)

[@ManitheMonkey]

You're welcome, I am very happy to hear that :D

[@mr.schoko8032]

I'm going bouldering today. I will try this out. Time to get pumped out of my mind!

[@Igifzo]

Very informative

[@ManitheMonkey]

+isaac gifford Thanks!

[@statue9639]

i did something similar the other day and now I am dead.

[@davidbernd8731]

Hey Manuel, vielen Dank für das tolle Video. Bin schon seit gut einem Monat am überlegen, wie ich mein Klettern wieder besser variieren könnte und es schaffe neue, meine Schwächen ansprechende Reize zu setzen. Dein Video hilft dabei schon sehr. Persönlich kommt es mir so vor, als ob mir vor allem Maximalkraft fehlt (wobei man ja sehr schnell falsche Einschätzungen trifft) da ich zwar im Onsight tlw. (für mich) recht gut unterwegs bin, aber meine Rotpunkt-Projekte und Boulder kaum heben kann. I.d.R. Onsighte ich um die 7a, manchmal sogar 7c komme aber mit meinen Projekten nicht an die 8a Grenze heran. Beim Bouldern kann ich leider auch nicht die 7a - 7b Grenze anheben. Training bedeutet für mich momentan eigentlich nur häufig und ausgiebig Klettern zu gehen und dieses so gut wie möglich zu variieren. Meinst du es wäre schon an der Zeit sich kletterspezifischem "Training" zuzuwenden? Vielen Dank für die feinen Beiträge!

[@ManitheMonkey]

Hi David! Ein Plateau beim Klettern zu durchbrechen ist eine knifflige Sache. Wenn dein onsight niveau fast deinem rotpunkt entspricht, hört sich das tatsächlich nach einer Schwäche bei Maximalkraft an. "Kletterspezifisches Training" hilft eigentlich immer, außer vielleicht man ist kompletter Anfänger :) Schick mir eine pm wenn du an einem angepassten Trainingsplan interessiert wärst.

[@ellen3093]

Great video! Could you maybe do a sort of beginners guide to climbing? I want to get into climbing but I don't know where to start. I feel like I am too unfit? How would you go about it if you feel a little insecure but motivated and wanting to getting into climbing?

[@LemonsandLove]

awesome video, thanks for the tips! funny, I notice I'm not getting vey pumped at the moment because I've been doing a lot of long, overhanging boulders at the gym - what usually makes me fall is when I'm just not physically able to do a move (trying to transition from 5c to 6a at the moment...) And it's usually lock-offs and one-handed jumps that send me flying... Getting much better though so it won't be long! :D

[@ManitheMonkey]

+Lemons and Love Thank you! Just keep bouldering in the overhang, single moves outdoors will soon be no problem for you anymore ;) Stay strong!

[@stephenr80]

thx brah, nice ideas

[@rockyboimedia]

does wearing pajamas when climbing help with power endurance

[@chaseramos4865]

Ye

[@Noahhh888]

There is some guy at my local gym who wears pajamas while climbing

[@virtual4d709]

Incredibly useful video, never thought about changing grip types to ensure a thorough forearm pump! Thank you so much. On a sidenote: What's the name of that stopwatch you're using? Looks really handy and would love to have one. Cheers.

[@ManitheMonkey]

+Virtual 4D Thanks for the feedback! The stopwatch is nothing very special, I got it from an electronics store called Conrad, and it's also named after the store, I guess it's some kind of brand from them.

[@chaseramos4865]

Use a phone

[@bergfreund3702]

Hi Mani! Erstmal vielen Dank für deine tollen Videos. Immer sehr gut gemacht. Ich habe das Problem, dass ich in Routen (indoor) sehr schnell keine Kraft mehr habe. Wie oft würdest du empfehlen gezielt Power Endurance zu trainieren (pro Woche) und wie schnell sollte sich eine Verbesserung einstellen? Wenn ich es richtig verstanden habe, trainierst du das zu Beginn einer Session. Was kann man im Anschluss noch trainieren? Eher nur kletterspezifisches Krafttraining für Schulter und Core? Bouldern wird wohl keinen Sinn mehr machen, oder?

[@zzpumpking8371]

Trainierst du manchmal auch Ausdauer am Hangboard? Wenn ja, ein Video würde sehr helfen, da viele (zB ich) in gewissen strengen Zeiten nicht oft Klettern gehen können und man die Ausdauer nicht verlieren will.

[@jefflau974]

What's the routine exactly? You did all 3 boulders, then did edges one more time. Is that the end so you do 4 sets or do you do 6 sets, twice of each different type? Very informative video. Enjoyed it a lot

[@ManitheMonkey]

I'm glad you're enjoying the content! I train all 3 hold types (6 boulders, two for each hold type), and then start again with the first hold type. In the ideal case you train all 3 hold types equally often, leading to 3, 6, 9,.. sets, but usually you get so destroyed at some point that it makes no sense to continue the session as this would only increase chance for injury. If you are unlucky and trained some hold types more often than others, simply start your next workout with the neglected hold type. Hope this clarifies it.

[@jefflau974]

+Vegan Rockclimbing thanks for the clarification! How often would you do this training? Would this be your entire workout for the day? Do you stretch after? Sorry for all the questions! Just super curious about the routine!

[@jefflau974]

+Jeff Lau oh last question. For the next session, would you use the same routes or would you switch them up for each session?

[@ManitheMonkey]

In my power endurance phase I tried to do it 2 times a week, as an entire workout for the day, mostly. I usually stretch before I start training, here's a clip about my warmup routine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3eyoadri79nrqc I use the same boulders for the next session, otherwise you just need to build and remember too many boulders.

[@IsmaelSilVig]

Power endurance is the same as anaerobic resistance, right? From what I've gathered, for AE it is recommended to do circuits of 20-40 moves at your max but without falling, and not very long rests (3-5 mins), when you are training for sport routes. I wonder if this method you expose here works the same (different approach, same goal) for routes, because I tend to think this is more boulder-focused. Any insight is welcome. Cheers. Edit: Just read one of your responses below. Anyway, would you think this power endurance is good for sport climbing? I'm basing my training on Eric Hörst's "Training for climbing" which includes 3 weeks of just volume and stamina, 3 weeks of power and strength and 2 weeks of anaerobic endurance, never including the power endurance.

[@ManitheMonkey]

What you are describing is anaerobic endurance (which is in my book the same as power endurance). For aerobic endurance, one climbs 30 minutes non stop at very low intensity to get a soft permanent shake-off pump. Anaerobic endurance, which comes with much shorter circuits like 40 moves on at higher intensity and short rests in between, should yield a harder pump. And it's indeed very important for certain sport routes.

[@andreaallegrini9317]

I have read in an article on climbing.com that actually to train endurance effectively one should avoid getting too pumped but only lightly pumped and try to climb as much as possible on relatively easy routes according to your level. Your videos are always inetresting.

[@ManitheMonkey]

Sounds like an approach for training aerobic endurance, which basically enhances your ability to shake out pump in a rest for example. This was ment to be a tutorial for training power endurance (or strength endurance, however you want to call it), which is something different (focuses more on not getting pumped in the first place, on lots of mediumhard moves).

[@andreaallegrini9317]

Hey, thanks, I got the point. Keep on rocking!

[@ce83820]

Helo , subtitules to your videos please .. i'm from El Salvador

[@alvaroperalta4593]

Such a bright face

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Back when Mani was a pasty vegan lol