Power seat switch replacement (real easy) | Fix a seat that won't move

[@robbie2awesome]

Thanks junkman, please make more motorcycle vids, they were awesome!

[@thejunkman]

I want to. The ones I want to make take a lot of time. There will be things coming in the future however. Check out my livestreams. We often talk motorcycles and ATV's frequently.

[@ladyspa1239]

That was an awesome video! You made it so easy that even a busy mom of four like me can handle it alone! Thanks a million!❤

[@djrodrussell3363]

I was lucky, I pulled the cap off and started playing around with it. It started working. So I'll see how long it goes.

[@mrwebber35]

There's a strange module under the drivers seat that the controls and all the input wires go into. It might make the switch just a IC controller and the module has relays controlled by the IC. I only hope the switch is at fault like this video. I checked it after my wife told me and it went front and back one last time for me then that was it. Still goes up, down and tilt. I'm heading on in boys. Wish me luck. Update: not the module or the switch. Think it's the motor jammed or broken. Apparently this is what happens when the seat is moved all the way to the back on several occasions. I'm on day two on this since the seat is difficult to remove like this and access is impossible. The chincy screws that hold the motor to the frame look like torx but are they 6 point or 5? Can't get my eyes down there to see and of course there are no specs. If anyone knows the specs can you show a link? Easy to strip out anyways. Might just drill off the head and get the rest out with vice grips or an easy out tool. I will try getting the flexible connections from the motor to the rails off and use a drill to move the seat forward to access the removal bolts that are also torx. Those flexible drive shafts that go to the rails are made rigid with those long stabilizing clips that pop off then you can remove them easily. Maybe there are chincy, again, plastic gears in the rails that lose a tooth? I will update as I go. FINAL UPDATE SOLUTION: The motor tested fine and nothing wrong with the rails. It was the black wire not the yellow one that went to the motor. It was broken as the factory let that connection be too tight and fatigued the wire till it broke. I repaired the wire with about 4 inches of extension with even better sheathed stranded wire than factory. I think they used wire that isn't good for extreme cold conditions as the plastic was brittle. Not because of age but it was like T90 wire rather than RW90. I managed the repair with solder and heat shrink. I did clean the switch contacts as I described above. Entire repair cost about 15 cents plus my time. Tools like a digital soldering gun and heat gun for electronics along with a heat shrink kit are expensive but not if you like to do your own repairs all the time.

[@adrianbarcomb7193]

Perfect...except mine has a screw holding side panel on. Thanks!

[@robertbrown3540]

Thanks

[@MissNicolaT]

Is this Universal for all cars?

[@thejunkman]

Most, but certainly a lot of GM cars made in the last 20 years.

[@MissNicolaT]

@@thejunkman Okay thanks. Probably won't work for mines since it's a Kia.

[@StoccTube]

My dealer wants $600 to replace a switch

[@proudveteran4696]

Don’t give up your day job

[@thejunkman]

I sure won't. Glad the video helped.