Power Steering System Rebuild (Removal-Cleaning-Installation) 2004 thru 2008 F 150 5 4 L

[@TheRamos11909]

I've been worried about tackling this problem but now that I've found your video I'm confident that I can get it done. You have my complete respect! Thank you so much for making such a great and detailed video. Excellent work!

[@StilesAutomotive]

Karen, I appreciate the comment and the feedback! Let me know how it goes! - Stiles

[@nitetraitor1]

Really appreciate the description of the different hoses and their connections. Great job !

[@StilesAutomotive]

You are very welcome! - Stiles

[@DanielPalma-q9w]

Well done thank you for taking your time to introduce step by step your improvement ,paint is to extend the life of the pump and others as well.! Beste Regards Brazil , Guatemala, Paraguay and USA

[@StilesAutomotive]

User, You are very welcome, I appreciate the feedback - Stiles

[@kevinbowker2385]

Awesome job. Thank you for sharing all of the detail surrounding the repair.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Kevin, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@254triple2]

Take 15 minutes and remove the Fan and Shroud. That opens up the bottom area where you can get to the hose mounts, oil filter sleeve and the rack bolt that holds the hose with ease. Mine was no where near that corroded but I can see that would be a major pain if it was like yours. I just did mine and with Fan/Shroud etc removed it was extremely easy to get to anything I needed to.

[@StilesAutomotive]

That is a great comment, about the fan and shroud. I started to remove mine, but I have 2 plow harnesses running along the top and the plow solenoid was mounted on the rightside top of the shroud by whoever installed the plow. I didn't want to remove the solenoid. The job would have be easier without the plow bracket, also. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@frankschenk09]

I just did both of mine also (10-25-2020) and they both did not want to come out so i just broke out my small go to air hammer with a 1/4 " blunt shaft and gave it a couple of hits no where near the edge where you would insert the fittings and they popped right out ...yes the fan and shroud was a must for this 64 yr old man but i did get it done....thanks for this video it helped me a lot+++++

[@frankschenk09]

Just thought i would add that i used my cordless drill and a bold i cut the head off to prime the pump be for i put the belt on .

[@kipphornburger1049]

I agree 100%!!

[@goldysgarage189]

My high pressure line just blew - it looks like he front of the motor had a hot oil massage - time to get into it. Great vid btw.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Goldy, One day it seems like it is fine, and the next . . . rust and corrosion all over the place. Make sure to clean or replace that Belt, then clean your Pulleys, if you got Fluid on the Accessory Drive Belt. I appreciate the comment! Let me know how it goes! - Stiles

[@goldysgarage189]

@@StilesAutomotive Bought a new serpentine belt with the pressure line. Cheers brother. Plan to steam the engine front once I remove the belt.

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@goldysgarage189 Ok, very good! We are thinking the same way! - Stiles

[@mexihoosier]

Excellent description and great explanation.You have a new subscriber. Thank you so much.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Mexi, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback. You look like you are in snow country, be sure to check out my Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) video, if you live on salty roads! - Stiles

[@erickmerryman109]

THIS is how you make an instructional video. Good job!

[@StilesAutomotive]

I appreciate that! Thanks for the feedback! - Stiles

[@leewhitlock9055]

Nice and informative video. I have a 2007 which has never leaked until yesterday, so sounds exactly like your situation. Going to buy the parts and give this a try now that i have seen how you did so. Thanks and will let you know how it goes.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Lee, ok, very good! I appreciate the feedback. - Stiles

[@johnkee5351]

Very helpful Another way to remove that fitting from the pump is to cut the pipe at the pump to allow a scrap bolt to be shoved in the fitting and welded to the fitting or pipe Then use vise grips to rotate and pry out the fitting

[@StilesAutomotive]

John, You said "at the pump" do you mean at the steering gear? At the pump is a threaded fitting. Your idea of a bolt in the fitting was were I was headed if my rusted tube at the steering gear broke off. I'm glad it finally came out; I was NOT looking forward to removing the steering gear. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@remilebo1503]

Excellent. I was able to fix my truck thanks

[@StilesAutomotive]

Remilebo, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@HILLBILLYinHELL]

I know what your saying about rust mine is just as bad. I appreciate how you showed the ends of the power steering lines as well as how you got them out because a lot of guy on here that have made the videos don't really show or talk much about taking them out of the steering box and it is hard to get them off! I had the who whole truck shaking they still did not want to come off. I am going to try some heat maybe that will help mine to come loose. I end up doing the same thing you doing I have an 05 and I thought it was the pump but then discover it is probably the hose, then the other hose sucks too so I am basically having to rebuild my system as well.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Hopefully by the time of this reply, you have your Power Steering System back together and your truck running great. One tip I got from comments, here, is if you break off the tube with the Fitting still in the Steering Gear is to use an Easy Out Tool in the Fitting. I didn't want to break off the last little bit of Tubing on the Fitting, I always wanted something to grab on to. I think a little heat is ok, but I was very cautious not to put to much heat into the Steering Gear. Thanks for the comment and good luck to you. - Stiles

[@calvinomynatt1172]

Extremely helpful thank you

[@StilesAutomotive]

Calvin, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@walterrandyhart8197]

I built a pair of vise-grips with black pipe welded on to make slide hammer to pull them off

[@StilesAutomotive]

Walter, I surprised someone doesn't make a little Slide Hammer with Vise-Grip like Jaws! Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@ValerieParsons-z2y]

Very helpful video great detail 👍

[@StilesAutomotive]

User, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@robertmedina6875]

New sub here!! Thanks for the videos sir!!

[@StilesAutomotive]

Robert, You are welcome! I appreciate the comment. - Stiles

[@gregorymamula9174]

Just endeavoring to do this. Hopefully watching this video will help. More to come

[@StilesAutomotive]

Best of luck to you. If have any questions, let me know. I try to reply in a couple of days and fast if you have a tech. question. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@littlemoo52]

power steering works on my 04 but i have power steering fluid puking out of the vent on the reservoir. any ideas? I only drive back and forth to work about 6 miles but its enough that I'm leaving puddles everywhere i park. that black plastic bracket (22:13 center page) traps dirt salt and holds constant moisture on the line. that's where mine failed. I wish i did them all simultaneously. instead of individually

[@StilesAutomotive]

Papa, you do use the word "pukin'" Did you let the Power Steering Reservoir get low on Fluid and then add more? The puking sounds like air in the Power Steering System. Could be from low Fluid, you would know this, or it could be a problem in the Valves in the Steering Gear (or Rack) . . . or it could be a leak in a Hose on the suction side of the Pump. Let me know how it goes! Thanks for the Comments! - Stiles

[@littlemoo52]

@@StilesAutomotive still trying to diagnose. No. Has always been maintained at the halfway point between Max and Min. Just before it started up i had been driving in deep snow in 4 wheel. Extreme cold also and thats when it started to whine. I though maybe i kinked a line or something. I flushed the system and replaced with Mercon V. During flushing the fluid was not very dirty and had no sign of aeration. I purposefully lowered the level and its been holding steady. Lock to lock to bleed system. Because of the reduced level it looks like the puking has stopped coming out of the small vent on top of the reservoir. I did a complete timing job last year and when removing the pump it took quite a bit of effort to remove the bolts because it was basically a block of rust. I fear now that the pump is shot and has finally crapped out. The rack looks dry but its hard to diagnose because there is residual fluid everywhere. I am waiting on some warmer weather to take a deep dive to troubleshoot. I have not lost power steering so there appears to be a pressure build up and and then it looks like return to the reservoir causes the overflow. When i flushed it i removed the lower pressure return, disconnected the crankshaft sensor to turn the motor over while purging the system, topped off reservoir. There was no restriction while doing this so it appeared the flow was not impeded (no blockage). I think the pump is shot or something in the system is creating a pressure differential. i just cant simulate the event. almost like it is overflowing after the engine is left to sit. sorry if this is long winded but i'm at the point where the annual repairs is pushing me towards buying new. If i figure it out I'll post a follow up.

[@stevenbelleville392]

very well done my friend. thank you. Makes me want to change out all the lines now and not just the return line that is corroded on my 08.

[@StilesAutomotive]

I appreciate the comment! Yes, do them all and clean out the reservoir, you'll have a new system. - Stiles

[@PaulHenreid]

With a small power steering fluid leak, is there a way to determine whether the lines or the transmission cooler is leaking?

[@StilesAutomotive]

Paul, If you have a "small" Power Steering Fluid leak, you will be able to see the Fluid level going down on the outside front of the Power Steering Reservoir, The Power Steering System and the Reservoir doesn't hold very much Fluid. A "small" Transmission Fluid leak will be harder to see on the Transmission Fluid Level Dipstick. - Stiles

[@24csturner]

Question on the mounting bolts for the pump. The two top are very clear and then there is the third one on the bottom with the clip. Is there a 4th one behind the line on the bottom, far side from the cab? There is a hole and cavity there like there should be a 4th bolt. Is there not one in that position?

[@StilesAutomotive]

Chris, On most (read not all) 2004 thru 2008 5.4L F-150s there is not a Bolt in that position. On other Ford Vehicles that use this same Power Steering Pump there is. If there is a Bolt in that location, it is extremely hard (and slow process) to get to get out. - Stiles

[@kareembaylor2315]

What’s the thread size for the 1 bolt you pulled out the gear box. The one that goes through the plate 10mm ???6:25

[@StilesAutomotive]

It is an M6 x 1.0, with a 10 mm headsize. Good question, I did fail to size it, didn't I? Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@kareembaylor2315]

Thank you sooooo much.👍

[@williambergman1665]

I wish i would have seen your video before i rebuilt my power steering and yes the stud broke off in the shaft, i hope i can get it out. My truck has 50,000 miles on it and every single line has broke! !!!!! Including transportation and brake line and the fittings in the radiator can bought you have to buy the whole dam radiator

[@StilesAutomotive]

William, Sorry to hear about your corrosion issues, but that is my life too, life in the northern Salt States is rough on cars. You should look for radiator shops to tank and rebuild your radiator, it may save you a few dollars over a new radiator. Let me know how it goes - Stiles

[@kalebschriefer8707]

Attempting to do this on my whip. Looks very informative. I am a carpenter by trade, I know nothing about cars or trucks. Will let you know how it goes!

[@StilesAutomotive]

If you have a southern truck or one not driven in the snow, it will be easy. However, if it is like mine, I wish you luck and patience! Thanks for the comment. - Stiles

[@kalebschriefer8707]

@@StilesAutomotive Ended up replacing all the power steering lines, the pump, rack and pinion systems. What a pain in the butt. Took three weeks of waiting for the right parts to come in, but got it all done and its back on the road. I couldn't have done it without this video. Thank you.

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@kalebschriefer8707 You are welcome, I feel like if the video helps one person it is worth it. You should be good for another 200,000 miles! Well done! - Stiles

[@buddyfrederick121]

replacing my lines today. Thanks for an EXCELLENT video. I'll probably be kicking myself for not replacing the pump at this time, but I don't have any issues with it. One of the lines just started leaking, so I'm replacing all of them. I think the worst bolt to get out will be at the pump. Were you able to get a wratcheting wrench on that or a crowsfoot? Thanks again for taking the tie to do this video!

[@StilesAutomotive]

Buddy, I appreciated the feedback! No, I think I used the Boxend part of the Combination Wrench to get that Front Bottom Bolt, the rest are Socket and Ratchet. - Stiles

[@RS3helper]

Thank you ive been stuck for days trying to figure out the high pressure line assembly for a 2005 mercury... looks to be almost the same as yours !

[@StilesAutomotive]

Glad it helped, You are welcome! - Stiles

[@vincedeluca226]

Good stuff. Never did this sort of job prior and know this will help. Question: no need to bleed the system? Just fill, turn the steering and recheck level?

[@StilesAutomotive]

I appreciate the comment. Yes, to bleed the Steering System just turn the Steering Wheel from lock to lock (all of the way left to all of the way right). This will force enough Fluid thru the System to force the Air out. - Stiles

[@dorieanklam5240]

Don't know if I'll get a response as this is a older post,,but hoping!! I got a '03 5.4 F150 is the pressure line the same set up at the steering box, or is it bolted in rather than pressed? Not looking forward to this.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Dorie, Your 2003 has a different (threaded) connection, here is your Power Steering Pressure Hose for the '03 Ford F-150 5.4L on the Rock Auto Website - - www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2003,f-150,5.4l+v8,1414695,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320 Your task should be much easier, let me know how it goes! - Stiles

[@dorieanklam5240]

@@StilesAutomotive Thanks, I'm goi0ng in!!

[@mattmichalak34]

very helpful thanks

[@StilesAutomotive]

Matt, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@DrumRunner813]

I’m having a hard time getting that 18mm nut off the high pressure line. I have a stubby 18mm open end wrench but I need to grind it down to make it flat.

[@rockymassara2012]

Thank you for making this video

[@StilesAutomotive]

My pleasure! I hope that it helps you with your project. - Stiles

[@oxdanig45]

Very informative video, how would you go about having 2 bolts rusted on the pump, could i just cut the pump in half?

[@StilesAutomotive]

Ox, cut the pump in half? No, I'd heat the bolt heads, first. I think if you break or grind the bolt heads off the pump will slide off of the remaining bolt. Then you can heat the bolt and get it out. Good luck and let me know how it goes! Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@johnneu1343]

very helpful

[@StilesAutomotive]

John, I appreciate the comment! - Stiles

[@blackseabrew]

So I ended up deleting a bunch of line. Namely the steel line that runs back and forth(makes a big u-turn) on the front side of the front cross-member. This line runs to the reservoir on one end with a rubber hose crimped to that end and not sure where it runs on the other end but that rubber hose is just clamped to the steel line. This latter hose has plenty of length to reach the reservoir so I connected it directly to the reservoir after routing it through the brake lines at the brake controller so the hose would be secure from the contacting any of the pulleys. Not sure why that additional length of steel line is there unless it's for cooling. But given this would not provide much cooling I'm leaning towards the theory that an engineer was upset with Ford and decided to design in this long length to cost Ford a bunch more money.

[@StilesAutomotive]

BlackSeaBrew, Yep you are right that "extra" loop is the Power Steering System Cooler, the Power Steering System doesn't need much cooling, but it needs a little. You can probably get by without the cooler, especially in the northern states. I'd keep an eye on my Power Steering Fluid, if it don't look clean, shiny red, like new Fluid. I'd consider putting the cooler back in. - Stiles

[@claytonmatt4334]

Thanks I was thinking of doing this too because my truck is too rusty to ever unbolt anything and fix it the right way. Did you have any issues?

[@blackseabrew]

@@claytonmatt4334 I haven't had any issues at all. Even took a 1500 mile round trip to Texas and back in some hot weather. But I don't drive it everyday. @StilesAutomotive made an excellent recommendation to check the power steering fluid color/condition. Chances are the steel section of your line is rusted internally so getting it off of there would be a good idea to keep that rust out of your pump. As indicated there is plenty of existing rubber hose to just run directly to the power steering pump. It just so happens I bought a bunch of 3/8 SS tubing. In the middle of building a man-sized shop but when I get around to bending a new piece I'm happy to make you a piece and mail it to you for the cost of shipping. I'm in central USA so I wouldn't expect shipping to be more than $20.

[@davidburman451]

Thanks....I've got my 04 apart to do chains...guides...etc. The pump is off and all the lines look nasty.....now decided to do all of them while its apart. Removing that pump earlier was sheer torture....dont want to do it again in this life time !

[@StilesAutomotive]

Thanks for the comment! I'm with you on replacing old parts when you have something else apart. unlike my Mustangs that are driven in the summer, the F-150 sees the salt. My Power Steering Pump was still good, but like you saw in the video; it was so rusty 1/8" fakes were coming off of it. Well . . . may your truck last so long for you (another couple of hundred thousand miles) that you do need to do it again! - Stiles

[@davidburman451]

Thanks....been working on it this weekend....decided to go with a new re-man pump as well. Got really lucky pulling the pressure line from the rack.....years of slow leaks fron the system kept it from seizing in there. The parts really dont cost much at all in the big picture. The rest of the truk is really solid and I dont drive it more than 15K per yr at this point being retired....... No payments ! New truks all over $50,000 ! This years equivelent truk to what I have is closer to $70.

[@sconrady123]

Doing this while in the middle of a timing chain job on it, it might be easier! Thanks

[@StilesAutomotive]

Yes, I would think it would be a lot easier. Consider doing all of your Idler Pulleys and the Tensioner Pulley while you are at it. You should have a new truck, when you are done! Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@NoelPepin]

Good JOB! thank's

[@StilesAutomotive]

Noël & Pepin, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@52klog]

Did you have to remove anything for the pump to come out, like oil filter, fan, fan shroud, etc?

[@StilesAutomotive]

I did not remove the Fan Shroud, it would made the task easier, but you do not have to. I didn't remove mine because the previous owner of the truck or the snow plow installer, mounted the plow solenoid and cables to the Shroud. The task of removing the Power Steering Line would be much easier without my snow plow mounting bracket installed. In the video I showed everything that I removed, I attempt to be detailed and include the head-size of the bolts to aid you to perform the task. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles

[@52klog]

@@StilesAutomotive ok thanks great video.

[@slanwar]

On my 2008 Ford F150 one of the bolts extends about an inch from the head and has a cable attached, do I need a special tool to remove that bolt?

[@StilesAutomotive]

Luis, No special tool. Just use a 10mm deep-well socket, I show the bolt at 9:25 in the video, but don't talk about the tool. - Stiles

[@darrelpainter4610]

Awesome

[@StilesAutomotive]

Darrel, Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@riverrivers250]

is it possible//difficult to change the pressure hose without removing the power steering pump?????

[@StilesAutomotive]

River, Yes, you should be able to. I show the Pump Fitting and Fitting Size in my video. - Stiles

[@riverrivers250]

@@StilesAutomotive got lucky with my pressure hose,,,, my new one came with a Quick Connect Nut,,, so i cut off the old hose from the pump and used a socket/ratchet to get it off,,, so with the new Quick Connect nut, i put that on to the pump first without the hose/line, again used rachet/socket, then i lightly tapped in the line/hose into the quick connect nut,

[@riverrivers250]

@@StilesAutomotive and i took off the Radiator fan and Fan shroud,,, it made alot more room.

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@riverrivers250 Yes, a Quick Disconnect would make the job so much easier, I'm glad you were able to get one. I haven't heard that Ford is completely going that way, but may be they will. thanks for the feedback! - Stiles

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@riverrivers250 Yes, it would have, it's not absolutely necessary, but gives you so much more room. My truck was the Snow Plow Relay (heavy) and Large Gauge Wiring attached to the Fan Shroud, I couldn't move it enough to help. Also my truck has the Plow Attachment Bracket in the area where the Power Steering Cooling and Hoses are, which makes the job harder. Thanks the comments, they may help others in the future. - Stiles

[@johnhardy2702]

Very thorough....great job!

[@StilesAutomotive]

Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@brianjohnson8616]

Your new parts you show toward the end of the video don’t seem to have the connection for the pressure switch. I bought the Motorcraft replacement 8L3Z-3A719-F as you did and it didn’t have it either. At the end of the video I see that you have it installed and connected? What did you do? Thank you for the good video

[@StilesAutomotive]

No, it did have the switch mounting location on my Pressure Hose, look at the video 22:43, at the transition to installing new parts, I show the installation of the Pressure Switch on the Pressure Hose. This is Hose, Power Steering Pressure, Pump to Steering Gear, Motorcraft PSH-57. The Rock Auto description page - - www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7590612&cc=1431304&jsn=460&jsn=460&jsn=460 - The photo on this page doesn't show the connection for the Pressure Switch, but mine had it on it. Do you have the RWD Pressure Hose? This is for the 4WD. I hope this helps. - Stiles

[@brianjohnson8616]

@@StilesAutomotive Thank you for the info! The dealer said that my vehicle uses a PSH-54 which is for a 2WD but the replacement part didn't come with the mounting location for the pressure switch. According to Ford, you don't need the pressure switch anymore and you are supposed to zip tie the pressure switch connector to the wiring harness and leave it disconnected. I haven't installed it yet but I hope it doesn't trip any codes or make my truck run rough since it is not connected anymore. This doesn't seem like a good solution since it leaves the open end of the connector exposed to the elements. Kind of a dumb update on the part.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Interesting, Ford sold me the Pressure Switch and I would have needed to Plug my Pressure Switch Hole. My Pressure Hose came with the Switch Connection Port, but the Pictures on Rock Auto now show the Hose with no Port. It sounds like you won't ever use that Electrical Connector in the future anyway, but I'd Electrical Tape the Hound Dawg out of it. It is in one of the dirtiest locations on the truck. Thanks for the update! - Stiles

[@saviorcrash]

@@StilesAutomotive whats the part number on the pressure switch?

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@saviorcrash The Power Steering Pressure Sensor (listed as "Sensor" on my invoice) Part Number 3F1Z-3K215-A, List Price of $82.82 / My cost $69.57 (on 6/28/19), was not a stocked item at a pretty good size Ford Dealer. Luke per the discussion above you don't need the switch, either buy the Pressure Hose with no Fitting or Plug the hole and leave Electrical Connector unplugged. - Stiles

[@andrewkozik4666]

I'm going to replace my pump and lines. Are these lines and pump compatible with f150 08 lariat 5.4? Do you know how much it will all cost

[@StilesAutomotive]

Andrew, Yes your 2008 uses the same Power Steering System as my 2005. I put a link to all required Tools and Parts/Consumables in the Video description to help you identify what you need. This will give you an idea of cost. - Stiles

[@andrewkozik4666]

@@StilesAutomotive I saw that. Which drive belt? You have listed Drivebelt Motorcraft. Are there sizes for it?

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@andrewkozik4666 Looks like there was an option to include or delete the AC System. GATES K061025 (w/ Air Conditioning) or GATES K061025HD (Heavy Duty) (also with AC) - Stiles

[@miguelangelperezparra4002]

Now i hope can do in the ford f150 changed for new pump mine leaks a lot guess is the problem..Thankyou for the video gime lot ways to work on

[@StilesAutomotive]

If you are changing the pump, make sure you remove the reservoir and clean the screen that is inside. Thanks for the comment. I hope your F-150 gives you great performance for many more miles! - Stiles

[@anthonysnyder2522]

does any one know where the 06 f150 power steering pressure sensor is

[@StilesAutomotive]

Anthony, "any one"? My friends call me "Stiles". Your 2006 is similar (or the same, engine dependent) as what I show in my Video. It is on the Pump to Gear; Power Steering Pressure Hose. Some F-150s do not use a Pressure Sensor. Review my Video at 18:26 (Old Line), and at 22:48 for the new Line and Sensor. Again, If you are asking because you can't find yours in the same location as mine, you may not have one! - Stiles

[@TheRoguelement]

You really don't want to heat the fitting you want the body around the fitting to expand ...and it's sometimes helpful if you have an impact hammer with a blunt tip to wake up the part ...or loosen it with the frequency of vibration...

[@StilesAutomotive]

Michael, True, but you don't want to apply heat to the Steering Gear. Heating and cooling the Fitting causes movement between it and the Steering Gear, that loosens it. But true, you always want the outside part to expand (and heat) and the inside part to contact (cool). The impact hammer is a good tip for robust parts, little exhaust manifolds. Thanks for the comment - Stiles

[@ermias01]

Awesome guide. Thank you very much sir.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment. - Stiles

[@brucekaiwi3839]

Thank you Sir. Appreciate the video

[@StilesAutomotive]

You are very welcome! - Stiles

[@lzambra47]

Very helpful. Thanks.

[@StilesAutomotive]

I happy you can use it! I have a bunch of other videos on the F-150 and several of them are simple but cool modifications to the Truck. You should check them out! Thanks for the comment. - Stiles

[@kipphornburger1049]

Man this was so helpful. Great video!! I've been having trouble trying to get the pressure hose off. Trying to get that bolt out that holds the connector in there at the wheel well. I'm having trouble getting the tube from reservoir to the pump off. How did you get it off without cutting it?

[@StilesAutomotive]

Kipp, Glad it was helpful! The Hose from the Reservoir to Power Steering Pump isn't a pressure hose, it's like a thick heavy Radiator Coolant Hose. Do you know how to take old stuck Hoses off. Take the Hose Clamps completely off, pry the ends of the hose with a large Flat Screwdriver (between the edge of the Hose end and any Housing or whatever), if that doesn't work carefully cut the Hose at the Hose Barb parallel to the Hose and pry the Hose away from the Barb. I hope this was also helpful! Best wishes and many more happy miles to you! - Stiles

[@kipphornburger1049]

@@StilesAutomotive the big hose was just one of the issues. I slid the clips back on top and bottom but couldn't get it to pull off. No big deal now, after watching your video (after no luck on videos for two days). I was able to get the pressure hose at the bottom off. I already had the pump loose. So I cut the line a the pump and I just pulled everything out, pump and reservoir all together. FINALLY got the pressure hose off the gear box. I've got it all back together now, got the pulley back on then it started pouring rain. So tomorrow I will finish it and then test time. Can't put into words how much your video helped!!!

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@kipphornburger1049 Sounds like your Power Steering System is like mine, good for another 200,000 miles! May you enjoy your truck for that long! Thanks for the comments - Stiles

[@chuckychuck]

Just got a leak, it empty out my resevoir just below the resevoir, didn't take much to fill it, Man just got done tearing down the side of my engine replacing the timing chain, timing house gasket, water pump and the oil pan gasket a year and and a half ago, just going to let a mechanic tackle this job let him tackle those rust bolts, can't deal with another big job like this. How much do you think a so call professional will charge to change out 3 hoses?? My rack is good back they used serpentine belt for power steering it was easy as a piece of pie to tacle that job now you have to fight with job because of limit spaces an rusty bolts that weld themself into the blocks or car walls. 98 taurus se, bought this car brand new with 134,000 original miles on it, never ever had to touch the power steering section or do anything to the drive train.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Chuck, Yep, I know if the Car Manufacturers would coat the parts or use stainless steel the lines would last the lifetime of the car. On the F-150, I have brake lines right near the Power Steering Lines in the video, that look brand new. They have a black coating on them. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@alanhajek8453]

Geez, was this truck at the bottom of the ocean for a period of time?

[@StilesAutomotive]

Alan, you're right the salt used on the roads in the northern states is just like the salt water of the ocean and may be saltier. - Stiles

[@msmart108]

Found it very helpful. Now I know that I do not want to do this, ever.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Yep! When the truck was new it would have been easy, but the Fluid Connections at the Steering Gear are not designed for dirt and corrosion. Glad you found the video helpful! - Stiles

[@MrNoodles419]

Good Video however you didn't show actually how you removed the mounting bolts. I'm doing this currently on my 2007 FX4. The top two were fairly easy. However the bottom back bolt is a bitch. After a great deal of trial and error. I drained the oil and took off the oil filter. I did not take off the shroud and fan. I was able to get at the bolt from below. It has the plastic cap on it bracing the sensor wire. Pop it off and your actually able to get your hand up there with a 10 socket ratchet. Mine was extremely corroded but I got lucky and was able to break it. I would definitely recommend changing at least the pressure line. I haven't gotten it off yet but I doubt it will be in one piece when done. My pump and lines were as corroded as this one if not more.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Yes, you are right, I didn’t show the 10 mm head size, Power Steering Pump Bolt removal in detail. I did show them (see video at 6:20) and talked about them at length (see video at 8:56). I removed the bolts from the top and removed the Lower Back Bolt (the one with the Wiring Harness threads) by feel from the top. Once I broke-loose the Lower Back Bolt, it came out by hand, with the Upper Bolts loose and holding the P/S Pump. I hope by the time of this reply your work is complete and your Truck is running great! Thanks for the comment and I wish you well! - Stiles

[@kbt2524]

Great video but I'm not looking forward to this job. Mine started leaking today on my 07 F150. I live in Ohio so I get all the snow and salt and the rust that comes with it to make this job more of a pain in the butt

[@StilesAutomotive]

Kevin, Yep, those Fitting would come apart easy when the Truck was new. But, dirty and corrosion build up over almost 20 years makes them hard to remove. Hit the Steering Gear connections with PB Blaster (or other Penetrant) morning and night for a couple of days, or from now to when you do the replacement! Let me know how it goes! - Stiles

[@kbt2524]

@@StilesAutomotive thank you for the tip. I will definitely do that.

[@shantor100]

Why not replace the lines after all that trouble. They might have interior corrosion. No disrespect intended

[@shantor100]

My bad, maybe I heard you wrong and you are replacing

[@StilesAutomotive]

Shantor, Yep I replaced everything, but the Steering Gear. - Stiles

[@epicweldepicweld5857]

overkill painting bolts

[@StilesAutomotive]

Epic, I seriously hate corrosion. - Stiles

[@shantor100]

Mercon, mercron

[@StilesAutomotive]

Shantor, Yep, its Mercon V - Stiles

[@ms.jaimieblackstonepe8601]

Watching this make me appreciate my 1985 F150 - my son has the 2008 F150 with this problem and I'd never ever get one of these later models with everything so darn 'compact' where it takes an act of congress to repair things on it - what idiot started making things like this? Answer - NWO The repair shop will charge almost $700 to do this, and with all the proprietary tools like the pulley puller, the traumatic efforts needed to get TO the the lines and then to get them off, and the bizarre contraptions they've designed to make this problem happen in the first place - pay the shop to do it - but it gets better ~ later models now use electric power steering contraptions that you HAVE TO HAVE A SPECIALIST do any repairs... see where this is going yet?!? Piece of junk designed by control freaks that hate DIY's

[@StilesAutomotive]

Ms. Jaimie, I appreciate your comment, and I know what you mean. Many things on Fords are designed for ease of assembly during manufacturing and maintenance later is a second thought. If you think the Power Steering System on the 2004 thru 2008 F-150 is "tight" watch my Video on replacing the Transmission Cooler Lines (see link below), the 2 Cooler Lines under and beside the Engine are extremely tight. I believe the Ford Design use a Computer CAD Design Tool to proof that this could be done with the Cooler line in one piece. And . . . I think I stated in the video, if . . if Ford would have used a corrosion resistant material (like Stainless Steel) the Lines would have lasted the life of the Truck! - Stiles Transmission Cooler Lines Replacement, '04 to '08 F-150 Trucks kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3LMnXmDnMhorqs

[@kristinatrybul7145]

Who cares about painting the bolts, and pulley no one has time for that remember this is a f-150 for pete sakes a truck not a show car

[@StilesAutomotive]

You’re right, it’s not a show truck, however it is about corrosion resistance. I also used engine paint on the Power Steering Pump, Pressure Hose Tubing, and Cooler Tubing. The paint on the Cooler will reduce the Heat Transfer, but will have better transfer than the old rusty Cooler. No, you don’t have to sand blast your parts or fasteners, but you should clean the threads of fasteners with a wire brush. Especially the fasteners with Locite Thread Locker or Sealant on them. To get a good torque and to get the new thread locker to adhere, clean the threads. For me it is just as easy to open the door on the sand blast cabinet as put a fastener in the vise and grab the wire brush. I don’t always paint fastener heads, I often use an anti-seize and oil mix on them. I use two different types of anti-seize, a good high-temp anti-seize and a cheap, aluminum base anti-seize that I use to reduce corrosion. Anti-seize on Bolt Heads is messy, but like you said it’s an F-150. You can see an example of this in the video at 6:07 at the Power Steering Reservoir Bracket base, not pretty but prevents rust. I once knew a Pete, I think he drove an old POS import car, he didn’t care about corrosion either. For his sake, he should have! LOL Thanks for the comment. - Stiles