Prep work on the 535 baler

[@risky1]

1) Don't use WD40 - it dries out in 2 days and you are back to square one - Use Micro Mist - it lasts 10 years longer 2) There is a lever catch right behind where you were pointing - make sure it's down all the time after you kick out a bale 3) Good work on getting a new Constant Velosity Shaft --- otherwise it wears out your rear PTO shaft bearing if your CVS is too wobbly 4) Pressure spray the entire assembly every 2-3 years and re lube everything and grease everything again . My 535 is baling perfect but the string cutter is not working - so I think i have to adjust it one more time GREAT VIDEO .....thank you

[@ashleyflint3501]

Fantastic video and explanation. Loved what you were doing and learnt a lot even though i dont own a baler. I maybe able to tell a mate whats wrong with his baler not tying. You are the only person who has given a in-depth commentary as to how to fix the tying mechanism. Great stuff and Thank you. Dont you like it when you know more than the John Deere Staff ? Writing from Australia.

[@ChickenScrape]

This video makes me kinda like my hydraulic manual tie on my 335. I just count 2 seconds at every mark and 5 seconds at the start and stop. Best of luck bailing. I know this is an old post but this year you are probably wishing you put a spray kit on that thing for high moisture hay. LOL

[@danfinley3690]

I dig the machinery looks good y’all are busy farming cleaning will come later

[@tbob740]

I just bought a 535. So if you could, keep the 535 videos comin!

[@waynejoym1978]

That pump is the same style pump as a general motors with the exception that it is reverse rotation....

[@georgebologan8654]

Buna ziua , La mine acul nu porneste fiindca butonasul nu se ridica. Ce e de facut?Multumesc anticipat pentru raspuns. Cu stima si respect George

[@farmermatt9106]

You could probably just keep that big Allen wrench with you and adjust the bolt with that

[@JMfarmandcattle]

The Nebraska Life never thought of that but that work work great! Thanks for the idea

[@martyechols5780]

Did you ever drain all the oil? I have the same baler and was wondering how you did it.

[@jasonkotara2135]

Put that sucker in the field! Don't dump a ton of money on it. It will bale! I grew up pulling a 535. They are full proof!

[@timmangan2005]

Great videos. Explain the logo on the hat 😀

[@louisnemick1939]

You mite ask travis at the rest of the story youtube channel for information on the baler.

[@chadengemann8237]

That one small bracket arm is ment to have a rope tyed to it and is a trip arm and is the easiest was to do a last bail tye. And that is the best way to make the arms move. Also dont set the arms at idle the swing speed will change at full rpms. We have a 535 too and the are great older balers.

[@JMfarmandcattle]

Chad Engemann good to know! I may have some questions for you later on when I give it a go!

[@howardpowell7664]

Need belt routing

[@jasonkotara2135]

You must have the those rods that press your hay on the header! Your twine arms might just need to be used. We never had problems with them. I think the reason the guy parked that baler is because of the drive line. You already fixed that.

[@JMfarmandcattle]

Jason Kotara going to just test it out hopefully this weekend if the rain can stay away!

[@jasonkotara2135]

I have seen balers with 40K bales and never have problems with that block? Nothing wrong with it.

[@rons1286]

That is mineral oil you are putting in.

[@konglor9180]

My 458 baler is simple and doesn't use any of that stuff. Talk about making something difficult

[@jeffcrockford4772]

Your supposed to have 30 inch rows not 36 inch. 36 inch rows make your tractors 2 wide

[@tsukuyomi7726]

First