Pressure Bleeding Brakes with the MV7840

[@tjr9741]

Thank you sir, great vid

[@carnold.knowledge]

Love MityVac products, but at $350 for the kit, this thing is overpriced. The Motive, while manual, will be about 1/3 the price even after buying a couple of adapters. And it works perfectly fine.

[@mityvactools]

Our MV7100 Series units are capable of both pressure dispensing and evacuation in one reservoir unit. Compare that to Motive, which has one unit for evacuation and one for dispensing. The MV7840 is one of many kit options we offer. In this case we configured the MV7840 kit shown in this video with our pressure brake adapters. This kit can be expanded by purchasing extra reservoirs, adapters and tubes to perform a variety of fluid handling tasks centered around the base evacuation and dispensing unit. ~John

[@anotherstar8125]

I'd like to see how to do this on a 2018+ Subaru WRX STI...

[@ryanerfurdt8705]

Thank you for this educational video keep the videos coming. I really enjoy learning and watching your videos.

[@cooperpenny]

MityVac is an excellent product as well as that SFD desiccant air dryer seen mounted on your garage wall

[@stanmorton8975]

How many master cylinder adapters does it come with? Are adapters interchangeable with 1966 mustang, 1970 Mercedes 450 sl, 1981 ford F100, 1970 Riviera and 2001 ford escape? Thx

[@mityvactools]

There are 8 adapters in the kit that cover a wide range of vehicles and should cover many of those you have listed. Additionally, we offer separately two rectangular adapters to fit older large top reservoirs. Adapters are the MVA811 and MVA812. ~ John

[@stanaugustowicz8419]

My Toyota has a push on rubber cap on the brake mastrr cylinder reservoir so I think it woild just pop off under pressure

[@mityvactools]

we offer either a locking style adapter(MVA800) or a cone style adapter(MVA809 or MVA810) that is chained to the reservoir to allow for pressure to build in the non threaded cap style reservoirs. ~John

[@AndresRivera-bj1hk]

So i recently bought one from a tool dealer. My GM adaptor 803 keeps leaking from the back side when pressurized. I have a friend that has the same adapters and used his 803, still leaks. Tired the other gm adapter and it does not fit. The master cylinder is brand new OEM. '05 2500Hd silverado. My first time using this specific bleeder, is ot suppose to have a gasket besides the O-Ring? Thanks again 👍 i love the bleeder and dont want to have to return it.

[@mityvactools]

I'm sorry to hear you are experiencing issues with the 803 adapter. The o-ring is the only seal on this adapter and seals internally in the neck of the master cylinder reservoir. while a rare occurrence, please check the inside cylinder of the reservoir for any imperfections such as a seam or deformed plastic that could create an area where the o-ring would not seal against. The only other possibility is a damaged o-ring on the adapter. Please reach out to our tech service department for any additional troubleshooting or warranty questions. Contact our technical support team: Phone: [phone] Email: [e-mail] ~John

[@1982mmag]

I am starting to notice that factory service manuals for modern cars require a second person to pump the brake pedal WHILE the power/ pressure bleeder is connected and the bleeder nipple open, In other words the classic pump and hold method is added on the regular pressure bleeding process which is confusing, I always thought that pressure bleeding does not require any movement from the master cylinder, and that two person pump and hold sequence is only for the classic manual bleeding process, but factory service manuals are very specific about it , what's your thoughts on this?

[@mityvactools]

Thank you for the comment. This is a new method for me. Our understanding is that in some cases newer vehicles with ABS may need a scan tool attached to activate the system to bleed the pump and accumulator. We are constantly trying to improve our tool lineup, is there any way you could send us this procedure and what vehicles this pertains to? Feel free to send to [e-mail] and make a note to forward it to the Mityvac product manager. Thank you, John

[@bryantint1339]

Great video.

[@johndonovan7018]

this appears overly complicated. i prefer the ones that suck vacuum at caliper instead.

[@mityvactools]

This unit has the ability to vacuum from the caliper as well! you will need the adapters for said procedure but, simply switch the selector valve into the vacuum setting and push the top lever forward. We have kits available for either vacuum bleeding or pressure bleeding. You can also choose to purchase the accessories separately based on needs. ~John

[@Mr2004MCSS]

Vacuum setups don't always work. I tried a Mityvak vacuum brake bleed kit on my 98 Chevy K3500 after a brake line replacement and the pump could not pull enough vacuum to pull brake fluid through the rear bleeder screws. I finally had to do it the old fashioned way with someone pumping the brake pedal. Had the same thing happen last year on a 92 Cavalier after a rear brake line replacement.

[@johndonovan7018]

90s GM and in general domestics are fiddly. ive done the one man pedal pushing for years but i really want to avoid that at this point. vaccum through the calipers has not failed me yet but i havent done it on a MC replacement. last one i did took forever because why would you bench bleed it first heh. im stubborn @@Mr2004MCSS

[@Mr2004MCSS]

@@johndonovan7018 I also own a 98 Chevy K1500 and I have never had an issue vacuum bleeding the brakes on this truck both front and rear as well as many other vehicles.

[@homewrecker44]

Overly complicated? This is fairly straightforward. Pressure bleeding is far more effective.

[@carnutal3627]

This looks ok but I like the simple pump up bottles that you connect to the master cylinder. Motive Products is one example.

[@mityvactools]

We have those too. That would be our MV6840 pressure bleed kit. ~John

[@carnutal3627]

@@mityvactools Sounds good thanks

[@mpasaa]

That's what my wife is for 😂 I bought one of those manual pumps but the problem I had was the hose to valve connection leaking air or air getting sucked in from outside and I didn't want to bother with having to coat everything with grease or something just to seal that connection. Having someone pump and hold the brakes takes no time and I don't have to deal with crappy hose to valve connections. I guess if you really can't get another person to help or do a lot of brake bleeds these things are worth it. But I didn't see mention of how sealed your hose to valve connection was? What if it's not secure.....how do you seal it to prevent external air from being pulled in from the vacuum? Good video though 😊