Tool Time: Pressure Bleeding Brakes

Come along with Eric O. at the SMA shop as he demonstrates the use of the Branick G300 Pressure Brake Bleeder. There are several types of brake bleeding devices this is just the method we use at the shop. Some use pressure and replenish the master cylinder at the same time and others use vacuum. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. --Enjoy!
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Branick Pressure Brake Bleeder with Universal Adapters: amzn.to/2jjIfhX
HFS (R) 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit New: amzn.to/2jkm0IZ
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Detool Hand Held Vacuum Pump Set for Automotive Tools Brake Bleeder Kit and Vacuum Gauge with case: amzn.to/2f0IWf1
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.

[@BlackBlade0001]

Money was tight in our cab fleet repair shop..so I made my own pressure bleeder system with a garden sprayer from home depot and odds and ends pieces..even installed a pressure guage on it. Worked like a charm!

[@viplegaleducation1292]

Your talking about the pump action type huh? "Motive" makes one and it sells for like 50-60 bucks on amazon.

[@ghost-4230]

I’d imagine the different pieces and adapters you’d have to buy would add up to a cheap one on amazon

[@petero2693]

Suction sucks...power bleeder rocks... just denatured alcohol to clean up...

[@savage22bolt32]

I used a big C clamp to hold a flat plate with an old tire valve stem & filled it with the compressor! 90 psi. Fasted bleed in the world! JK LOL

[@shawnpa]

Great idea with the pressure sprayer. Would a pressure system bleed the abs or do you have to use a scan tool?

[@keithll3283]

I realize this is an old vid but thank you Eric! I recently found I couldn't seal to the reservoir of an '08 F150 with a single J-hook as shown. Much like trying to wrap a ratchet strap around something the strap can't slip to equalize lengths so one side gets tight while the other does not. In this case the chain could not slip around the mc and the adapter cap would rock to one side. I robbed a J-hook from another setup and used a wing nut on both sides of the chain and this worked perfectly to seal to the reservoir. Love the channel!

[@johnferguson7235]

Always vacuum out the reservoir and refill with clean fluid before flushing the system to avoid pumping crud through the ABS system and plugging it up. There is always some particulates from corrosion and seals sitting in the bottom of the master cylinder.

[@petero2693]

Yup... exactly..no sence pushing dirt into that costly abs ..... use a baster and tubing...

[@jcsmalley]

As always Eric, a great video. The only thing I would add is that when I do any brake bleeding, I always hook up a short length of clear hose to the bleeder screw. This keeps the fluid from going everywhere and it helps you see the fluid change from old to new. 👍

[@nandor690]

“If she starts squirting she’ll get a little aggressive”, “watch out she’ll spit”, “stroke the pedal” This video is full of good stuff 😂😂😂

[@Honeypot-x9s]

Nandor and grease the nipple

[@blockbertus]

Good stuff? Is Brake Clean included? :D

[@InsideOfMyOwnMind]

Nandor quadruple entendre.

[@Freedomquest08]

blocki If you need Brake Clean to go along with those terms then it's definitely a big nasty. My advice if you attempt it is to wear rubber gloves and don't lick it.

[@DigitalYojimbo]

you forgot "brake fluid facial"

[@Archetype123]

Bought one of the $100 Motive bleeders off Amazon and a specific Honda adapter after using one of the awful $25 vacuum ones you hook up to your compressor and hope for the best. Best money I've ever spent on a car tool. Makes bleeding an absolute breeze. Great video, Eric.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

Thanks for taking your time to record these videos. I just started mechanic school 6 weeks ago and your knowledge method and tool mastery is really helpful.

[@1almengor]

@ rimmersbryggeri hi. How your mechanic school experience? Are you working as an auto tech with your own business or do you work for a business?

[@rimmersbryggeri]

@@1almengor I work for myself but not a business yet. I dont drive because of medical reasons so is difficult to get work in a garage. My mechanic school was pretty good but I am missing more in depth courses as they seem to only be available to businesses here in sweden. Problem with mechanic school is that there is a big variance in previous knowledge so if you have some ore alot it's very hard for the teachers to help you since they need to help the people that need to learn more. My mechanic school was 2 months in school and the rest at a dealership becasue the teachers thought I'd learn more as an intern.

[@smb1014]

I have always been a little nervous servicing brake fluid. Eric, you made it look so easy. Thanks for the great video.

[@UKSCIENCEORG]

Here in the UK we have the Gunson Eezibleed pressure bleeder kit - uses your spare tyre to pressure the system. Only costs about £20 ($27). It works really well

[@MultiArrie]

That system is cheap and cheerfull € 25.

[@justinbrown4445]

May not be advised but doing a bleed on my truck not a flush. I just bought the adapter for the reservoir which was like 25 bucks and changed the hookup to fit my pancake air compressor turn the dial to roughly 15psi then opened bleeders till no bubbles and tighten it back up. Obviously I would constantly check reservoir and keep it topped off. When finished release pressure and remove adapter check level and put the cap back on, no mess or pumping the pedal worked great.

[@daveyio87]

I have the Motive Power Bleeder I got it for less than $200 with all the adapters i need, you can buy it for around 50 with one adapter, And you can buy additional adapters as you need them!

[@allynmaclarenjr348]

daveyio87 I have the motive power bleeder what a great tool even use it on hydraulic clutches

[@CKilger12]

yea i got the Ford/Nissan/Mitsu kit...love it

[@th3k1ngofchina]

I have the motive bleeder with a power probe adaptor for my Lexus/toyotas and I love it! A little upsetting that motive doesn't make a specific adaptor for yotas but the power probe adapter is A+ quality. Works on brake and clutch master cylinders

[@picklerix6162]

I finally broke down and bought the Motive bleeder too. It works great on my Ford and Nissan vehicles.

[@Ashroyer86]

Mity vac has 1 that helps keep the reservoir full, I think for under 200.

[@timgraham7851]

Well, after watching your video, I just purchased the Branick G-300.

[@donaldwhite1336]

Thank you for the tip on how to bleed the master cylinder. I have the Powerbleeder system. I cracked the front bleeder, pushed the brake pedal 4-5 times and the pedal was back to the top with a hard pedal.

[@wyattoneable]

What a great time saver tool. Just the fact it keeps the reservoir full is a huge help.

[@reneramos3805]

Soy muy buenos tus videos pero no entiendo muy bien el inglés, yo creo que tendrías más seguidores si subtitularas tus videos, gracias de todos modos son videos muy chingones saludos.

[@1almengor]

@ Rene Ramos Hola. Estoy de acuerdo contigo hacerca de que los videos que Eric hace son muy buenos. Ahora, concerniente a subtitular sus videos al Español (y por ende a otros idiomas) ¿Tienes tú conocimiento de como se puede hacer tal cosa mientras uno habla en su lengüage natal? Me interesa aprender a como hacerlo.

[@luisbaez88]

i purchase the g300 last year and still same design as the one Eric have from years ago. This tool save me time and pays off quick.

[@turboflush]

Nice grease trick! Harbor freight sells mityvac brake vac kit. They sell a air assist version that doesnt work.. but has good containers. I like pressure the best! Thanks eric

[@pantherplatform]

I have that exact same bleeder and it was a life saver after replacing all the brake lines on a 99 K2500 pickup with power steering fluid powered booster. Can't do it without pressure bleeding. Now its perfect.

[@ncrdisabled]

I can remember back in 1967 when I was 9 my dad showed me how to bleed brakes and took me to work as a master mechanic for over 50 years. I even worked there for 5 years as a line mechanic. But I went in the NAVY on submarines to learn electronics for 7 years then got hurt on one leaving me with no legs. I still wonder if I had not go in would i have lost my legs

[@westhouse4641]

Thank you for your service.

[@douglasdailey5998]

Man that's rough sorry to hear that. Thank you for your service and lots of love to you.

[@bbltd.3154]

Sorry bro

[@klwthe3rd]

I love this pressurized system. Im by myself and doing brake fluid services has always been a chore due to that fact. I know a lot of DIYers on here are going to say that its too expensive to buy and that they just prefer to do it old school and pump the brakes instead. I have owned a car that I actually damaged my master cylinder from using that method. Inside your master cylinder you have seals that wear in accordance to the brake pedal travel. If you start pumping your brakes ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR, you can damage/break those internal seals because the cylinder they ride in goes beyond the regular/normal travel. Now, I just gravity bleed my lines since im not in a rush to get the job done. Life would be better with the PRESSURE POT!!!! Great video

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

In Europe the GM Vauxhal-Opel Astra has a reputation for this type of failure they call it seal reversal

[@Micko350]

Kenneth White by that same logic the same could happen in an emergency type situation where you had to slam on the brakes really hard & therefore lose your brakes😞

[@klwthe3rd]

Michael O No it wouldnt because the normal brake travel doesnt go all the way to the floor. If you slam on your brakes it will not go all the way to the floor, it will hit the same spot that if youre at rest and you push the pedal as hard as you can. When you open the system up for bleeding and pump the brakes, the pedal will sink well past where an emergency spot would be.

[@Micko350]

Kenneth White man you must brake EXTREMELY hard when you drive because I can quite easily push my brake pedal down a hell of a lot more than I do under normal braking conditions 😞

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

Quit often extra travel when pressing the brake very hard in due to the pedal mounting flexing.

[@tompurtell4073]

Thanks for the video. I'm a homeowner and I purchased this unit 6 months ago but I haven't unboxed it yet. I bought it because I have six vehicles and I want to able to bleed my brakes on the vehicles. I have to be able to work alone also and I never mastered the two person pump the brake method. It was good to see you run through the brake bleed, thanks

[@davidb.fishburn9338]

Now, i know that this is a little over a year old, but i found the tip about grease on the bleeders a useful idea. Gonna try that the next time i use the vacuum bleeder i have. Chrysler has a recall in which the rear pistons got too much plating, and it causes gas pockets to form and a soft pedal as a result. I have been bleeding brakes by myself using a pedal jack for years, but faced with having to do 300+ of this recall, i bought a vacuum bleeder from my Snap On dealer, best $175.00 i ever spent. It makes the job so much easier. So much so, that one of my my coworkers started borrowing it. Another coworker is using a brake flush machine, that i'm very leery of.The vacuum bleeder turns a 1 hour job into a 5 minute one, well worth the money spent for it.

[@utahjohn5480]

on old VWs if you try to vacuum bleed with drum brakes, the wheel cylinder seals will suck air and you'll never get all the air out. It's only a problem on drum brake equipped wheel cylinders, not a problem with calipers (discs). SOME (not all) of the old VW wheel cylinders have a flapper rather than pistons with O-rings, which is why. You simply can't tell from the outside. Pressure bleeding doesn't have this issue.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

Same on French cars my first pressure bleeder was home made with bike pump , a bolt in tyre valve and an old resevoir cap to bleed the clutch on a rear engined Simca 1000

[@michaelbouley2294]

I use the Phoenix System where I can bleed just one caliper that I replaced and it works to put brake fluid from the caliper bleed screw to the master cylinder. The air leaves by the master cylinder.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

The point Eric made about giving the pedal a pump is especially important if the master cylinder has been changed or the system is dry. I use a hose pinch on the brake flexible to control the flow . For UK buyers I can highly recommend the Sealey Vs820 hand pumped pressure bleeder.

[@bobl78]

there are cheap ones for the DIY, modified garden pump sprayers, they also work ok for occasional use...I have one and can not complain.... better than the pumping method..from my experience the pumping method does not always get all the air out of the system. Keep that brake fluid fresh and clean and you will not have any issues with calipers or ABS modules. I recommend once a year, don´t care what OEMs or fluid makers say

[@isellcatlitter]

i worked in a muffler/brake shop... we had a guy like that too, his name was harold, he never put anything away... when anyone was looking for a tool and asked where it was, our standard answer was.."last time i seen it was when harold had it"

[@GNX157]

Whichever system or technique you use, just remember a lot of cars will have a proportioning valve system that also senses a drastic fluid pressure imbalance such as a cut brake hose etc. such that the valve will swing one way or another and close off that part of the brake circuit so the other lines can stop the car. I mention this because it's possible to trigger this system while bleeding it and will need to be reset before bleeding can resume on the closed off section.

[@sparky1044]

Thanks for sharing the grease trick, the air bubbles are a pain in the ass! We bought a vacuum bleeder a few weeks ago and just resorted to old school pump the pedal. Will try grease next brake job.👍

[@alanchanthavisouk8557]

What type of grease was used on the bleeder?

[@robswrenches9501]

That unit is a lot like what we used in the Army back in the 80s and 90s. I don't know if they still do these days.

[@chrismenge8665]

we referred to it as "R2D2"...

[@ted101975]

Why is that you seem trust worthy and honest versus other mechanics.

[@ted101975]

John Shay I am not seeing your point?

[@jmabs5096]

Man that's hell of a tool. I'm other here in the stone ages with my cousins brother husband Bob in the driver seat pump and go while I'm at the bleeder 😂 love your channel!

[@printxii]

Been using hand vacuum, works every time.

[@grizley6666]

Mine arrived today. Love it so far. Big expense with all the adapters, but no more asking my teenagers to pump the brake pedal.

[@wammyz]

The shop I work in has three or four of these, it's funny because you posted this and we were just looking at getting some parts to fix one of them. We had a custom adapter machined for the trailers we work on. Very robust tool, the biggest issue we've had is the air pressure pushes the diaphragm toward the top as the tank empties, so you have to push it back down to refill with brake fluid. Using the wrong tool to push the diaphragm back down can cause punctures, which can lead to replacing the diaphragm.

[@allencrider]

Last time I did the brakes on my 97 Saturn I tried the gravity bleed method and it worked nicely. Great if you have the time.

[@Badgertronix]

That's way easier than the old pump and dump 👍

[@tickyul]

Badgertronix That's what she said.

[@Blazer02LS]

I have an older Motive Power pressure bleeder. They work real well. The company is proud of the adapters though so I generally make my own. Also added an air fitting so I can get it to pressure with shop air and a valve at the adapter fitting to make it less messy.

[@1oldmaster]

Tip for the Branick / Gearwrench / KD Tools, pressure bleeder, (they"re all the same identical unit made by Branick. Under $300 on Amazon). When you finish bleeding the system, turn off the air inlet valve at the regulator. Next, disconnect shop air from the regulator. Then slowly open the air inlet valve. This will depressurize the bleeder tank, and the entire vehicle hydraulic system. Then you can remove the reservoir adapter without getting a brake fluid shower ;)

[@Bekim8310]

Whats up Eric. You should make a video on how to bench bleed a master cylinder. That would be awesome!

[@somemedic]

It's a lovely vessel and I'm sure it's worth every penny. I bleed brakes in my military truck using a garden sprayer. It compresses the fluid into the master cylinder making the bleed a one man process. Next trip out to the bone yard grab a master cylinder lid thats specific to your vehicle or the autoparts store.

[@charlesfiore7835]

Pressure bleeding is better than vacuum because the air bubbles shrink under pressure and flow but in a vacuum, they get larger and can get trapped somewhere in the system.

[@petero2693]

I love my motive power bleeder...made some diy master cylinder caps I got 3 diffo cars... a one man show.. best 50 bucks ever...

[@joehenry2799]

Wow. Haven't seen one of those in years. I work alone so bleeding brakes or clutches can be difficult sometimes. I work mostly on Fords and have found that a simple gravity bleed will get all the air out. However some F series trucks used a clutch slave that had no bleeder screw. In those cases I have applied vacuum to the reservoir and let the fluid fill the space.

[@timbarton5316]

Those self bleeders are the cats meow 🐱

[@archiemcgregor701]

IVE DID THE SAME TO A FORD BEFORE

[@savage22bolt32]

No bleeder screw!? What genius came up with that idea?

[@harveyfarr9035]

I wished I lived near you, you would have a steady customer and I wouldn't have to do repairs myself. Keep up the good work and videos.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Grease on the bleeder is a great idea, but for guys laying in the driveway doing this, it can be a PITA - the hose slips off constantly, especially if it's at a funky angle. If you're able to hold the hose, not a big deal, but if not, it can be a PITA. I got around this by stuffing a smaller ID hose into the ID of the original Mityvac hose, just to tighten the fit up on the bleeder. It's not 100% air-tight, but it's close - better than using the Mityvac hoses themselves ... especially if they're 19 years old. :) That's a slick setup you've got there. That's something I really need here! I'm ALWAYS working solo. I've even gone so far as to wedge a 4x4 block of wood between the seat (protecting the seat with plastic, of course) and brake pedal, crack the bleeder just slightly, giving me time to run over and force the pedal to the floor, then lock it in place with the seat again. PAIN! Takes forever. Sometimes I can get away with just using the Mityvac, but alot of the times I don't like the way the pedal feels afterward - need to follow up with a traditional 2-man procedure ... which really sucks when you're flying solo! Another thing I've done is stick a hose on a bleeder, and stick the other end into a jug of brake fluid, then pump away - keeps air from getting sucked back in, but still allows air to escape inside the brake fluid container. It will contaminate your fresh fluid in the container, so it can be expensive (fluid wise) to do it this way.

[@Micko350]

Smitty Smithsonite it's called a 1 man brake bleeder, very easy to make & use. Tie a bit of wire around the neck of the bottle & bend it into a hook to hang whilst bleeding & presto!

[@petrocksgarage]

Great video. I honestly thought you had a pony-keg on the engine and was getting ready to celebrate. :-) I've never seen one of those tools. Pretty cool idea. But yeah, $600 is a bit steep for a DIY'er but totally worth it for a shop that does a lot of brake services. Sticking a clear vinyl hose on the end of the bleeder might help reduce the amount of cleanup at the end and make seeing the air bubbles coming out easier. I prefer the vacuum pump method and even made a video on it (one of my most viewed vids, btw, at more then 1 million views). I also have been using the grease on the nipple trick for decades. My dad, an old-school mechanic, taught it to me when I was a kid while working on the family car. Works like a charm.

[@overkill0074]

I don't believe this! A break job, and no break clean! LoL. Have a good weekend Eric.

[@CheezyDee]

I think it's like the 11th video without brake clean, he's doing on purpose now. Look at the way he was rubbing that dirty master cylinder reservoir with a dry rag. He's taunting us.

[@stoneblue1795]

brake not break

[@OneAuto]

I've a similar hand pump pressure bleeder. An absolute life saver when your on your own.

[@cardude5323]

One Auto, I have a similar one. But it can get messy sometimes.

[@robswrenches9501]

DIY Carguy I made one too. As long as I stay under 20psi, it won't defeat my O ring seals and leak at the cap.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

I keep the pressure lower than that, at lower pressure any air bubbles in a calliper are bigger and easier to get out.

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

Well I don't feel bad now b/c I saved all my manuals especially if I need PN's to order parts. Power bleeding is the way to go and when I use my vacuum bleeder I used to use grease which worked good but then I started using liguid teflon which not only creates the vacuum seal but when you tighten the bleeder the teflon seals it up and keeps the corrosion out. Great video.

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

@@peskypeet No...teflon tape used for pipe threads. You can buy at any hardware store or Amazon

[@squirrelkilla7371]

There are dozen of videos on here on making your own. Or just buy one. They are awesome to use.

[@davidhatzenbuhler6888]

For the price of em they should have a pressure relief valve on the bottom. The $35 motive pots have one. I like the expanding rubber cap arrangement.

[@archiemcgregor701]

I MADE A VACUUM BLEEDER OUT OF AN OLD ROBINAIR R12 PUMP AND A FEW ODD AND END FITINGS I HAD IN A DRAWER SO FAR ITS AWESOME

[@Fredjoe5]

Don't forget Gunson's Eezibleed. Cheap and efficient for bleeding brakes and clutch systems.

[@nicknicu1787]

I like " tool time " . Since you don't want to do a toolbox tour,at least we get one tool at a time. 👍

[@lyfandeth]

In 2015 or now, you can buy a plastic pressure pot from Motive for about $65, intended for the home user. Also often "free rental" tool from the auto chains, if you ask for it while buying brake parts.

[@mph5896]

Thats the way I bleed brakes, works well on the abs units in which you have to activate the abs pump to get the air out For DIY I have a Motive Products unit. Cost is about $60 for base kit, then you do have to purchase additional adapters for your application. I have 3-4 adapters and about $150 into the entire ordeal. Works amazing.

[@smc9764]

I have a Motive Pressure Bleeder like several other viewers have mentioned. It's a little overpriced for what it is, but it works really well. I bought another and use the second one for putting fluid into the rear diffs on my cars and the AT on my Audi, which has to be filled under the car while it's running. You can also buy an adapter for the power bleeder and turn it into a radiator pressure tester.

[@baxrok2.]

I've always wanted one of those to DIY with but never have found one I liked or was willing to pay for. Thanks for the tips Eric!

[@SorryIwasntListening]

Last vid on coolant flush using a vacuum (very cool) linked to another coolant vid from April 2015 - amusing how more animated you get as time goes on.... no more "Dr. O!" much more world weary banter and throwing things about!!! great stuff - here's to 100k subscribers... what are you going to do by way of celebration then???!!!

[@VelleyIndustrial]

Motive power bleeder $60 & catch bottle $15. Works flawlessly.

[@savage22bolt32]

4:05 The big long one! I coulda used that on my '68 Camaro. My mom used to sit in it & I'd say "pump" "hold" "OK" "Pump" as I tightened & loosened the bleeders.

[@saginaw60]

Clean brake fluid gives better braking. Physicist explained that when moisture mixes with brake fluid it gets thicker, so change it !

[@robinsonsmotorcycleandauto3929]

What's up with all the old school tools lol. I know your not that old. Love watching all your videos a lot better than anything on tv. Keep up the great work

[@zakuraayame5091]

he's been doing it over 20 years; and it runs in the family; believe that shop used to be his dad's; who has a bigger shop where they work on semis and Eric does alignments at; one of his brothers works on farm equipment, another runs a tow truck. So I'm sure we haven't even scratched the surface of the myriad of tools from various periods ;)

[@jamesu]

I use the Harbor Freight Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder Item#92924 which is a vacuum bleeder. It comes with a brake fluid bottle to keep your reservoir full. I have been using never seize on the threads for years to stop the bubbles. I'm sure someone will object but I was using never seize long before i used vacuum or pressure bleeding.

[@tinkerscorner54]

Mighty-Vac pumps are great but only good for about 3 or 4 uses before the plastic handle breaks. I had three to break in the same location so now I have three $45 vacuum gauges. I like the pressure idea instead of vacuum. Thanks for the video.

[@therealspixycat]

Make that green cap from aluminium so that it stays flat and won't leak. Thanks for the tip on preventing sucking air when using a vacuum pump.

[@petronics2454]

Really well demonstrated as usual and I feel more confident with my new pressure system. Thanks immensely.

[@mikechiodetti6737]

I've got the vacuum one. Thanks for the grease tip! Great Video!

[@davidrobins4025]

Nice to see the process from start to finish - instructive. Thank you for teh great job you always do.

[@arnoldgrabski6436]

If you have a spare resivor cap you can punch a tiny hole in it and use a little shop air duster/air blaster to apply pressure to the master cylinder for real cheap. I work on a lot of Volvos and they all seem to have the same resivor cap. Much cheaper than a pressure bleeder, but not super ideal since your exposing the brake fluid to shop air, but it works when the vaccum bleeder leaves some bubbles behind.

[@throttlebottle5906]

use your welder shielding gas, nitrogen, argon or the kegerator C02 :))

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

Bicycle pump or pump up garden sprayer and a bolt in tyre valve and an old resevoir lid is all that is required as long as you keep an eye on the fluid level. About 3 to 10 psi is all that is required. Gunson in the UK make very basic version the Eezibleed that uses the air from a spare tyre. but it really is a lot better to buy the Motive Products or Sealey or Laser hand pump up units as they don't cost the earth.

[@Badge1122]

I use an air brush compresser, its low pressure means you can connect it to a cap with a nipple JB welded in it.

[@machina_aeterna]

Very efficient for someone doing lots of brake fluid replacements

[@vikthoriousreign]

It's been a while since I saw one of those, very very handy tool!

[@DanielJohnson-ps4xv]

Grease on the nipple. I was just fighting this problem a hour ago. I was about ready to punt my vacuum bleeder across the driveway.

[@chrisyboy219]

I made one with a weed sprayer from HomeDepot. Total cost about $30 and it works pretty well!

[@ryans9103]

I use a vacuum line in a bottle with break fluid in it and flip another bottle of break fluid in the master cylinder. Then go pump the breaks and just pay attention. I got into a jam with a hydraulic clutch and solved it that way, but the same can apply to this breaks

[@GodKedon]

motiv products makes a pressure bleeder that's like the one you used, but it's priced at the diy price

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

In the UK Sealey VS820 is in the budget price range --- highly recommended for single handed work.

[@bobmoy3406]

www.ecstuning.com/b-motive-parts/universal-power-bleeder/motivepb-0101/

[@j.c.smithprojects]

morning coffee with eric o. and a new video....does life get any better?

[@mikechiodetti6737]

I've got the vacuum type. There are some pressure bleeders that are coming down in price, may be looking at that soon. Great Video, as always, Mr. O explanations are making it easy to follow and perform. Inspiration of brake fluid coming out of the caliper running into the pail, makes you want to go! LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL ! !

[@billfischer6464]

I know it's an older video, but it sucks I gave one of those away. After my old man's shop closed after his death i sold some stuff and threw it in just because. I never thought I'd need one and now I need to buy one. The ignorance of youth. Thanks for the how to.

[@richardcranium5839]

i must say your audio is really good. first thing in the morning and at 11:30 , well i had to pause this for a break lol. you picked a 4 wheel disc to show us on. shoulda been a disc/drum with a combination valve that had one side emptied. they can be a real pain

[@mike-yp1uk]

Old faithful power bleeder looks great

[@RICHFO100]

ERIC YOU ARE THE BEST

[@rwbishop]

My issue with vacuum bleeding is that said vacuum tends to pull cylinder cup seal lips in, allowing air to pass. Some are worse about it than others... cool videos, Thanks!

[@petrocksgarage]

rwbishop if you pull a bunch of vacuum pressure you might mess up a seal, however you shouldnt be pulling more then 10 or 15 inched of mercury (vacuum pressure) which is way less then the pressure that pressing the brake pedal would apply. Just sayin'...

[@rwbishop]

Hmm... normal brake operation pressure forces the lips of cup type seals tighter out into their respective bores; and many systems now even retain small amounts of residual pressure with brakes released to keep those seal lips out; thus eliminating/mitigating seepage. It only takes the introduction of a very small amount of vacuum to draw those seal lips in off the bore/s and introduce in air... check valve like. Not only that, but pulling a vacuum affects not only the brake your currently bleeding, but all the seals in that half of the system. Just sayin' :)

[@petrocksgarage]

I don't follow. The direction of the force doesn't really matter. If the fluid is being pushed by the brake pedal towards the caliper or pulled by a vacuum at the bleeder towards the caliper the fluid is still moving in the same direction. So any directional seals in the system will not have fluid passing over it in a way it is not designed. Also under normal operation, fluid is going in two directions. Out towards the caliper when the brake is pressed and back towards the master cylinder when the brake is released. Any seals in the system would need to be able to handle this type of fluid movement. As for the seals around the piston (which I assume are the ones you are talking about) they are round & square cut seals. Not directional. The round seal is to keep the fluid in as the piston moves in & out and the square cut seals are designed to bend as the piston moves out so that they can (help) pull the piston back in when the brake is released.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

The lips on the seals are directional more on some than others, it can be a real problem on some cylinders (particularly French) when old style or vacuum bleeding

[@BOLDNIGHT]

I believe you are truly a great mechanic and a professional. I have one complaint. Please start wearing safety glasses. At least if servicing liquids or spark flying grinders. I still have my sight, but I almost lost an eye because of paint remover. I won't go into detail but anytime there are chemicals or flying debris i put on eye protection. Keep up the great work and keeping us informed.

[@YardpigTSI]

I do agree, I have bled with pressure bleeder and then pumped pedal and found more air. Great video's thanks. A+++ A1

[@Bushougoma]

I use the Mityvac MV6840 pressure bleeder best 250 bucks I've ever spent and no need to hunt someone down to pump the pedal that alone justified the cost for me. It also has an air bleeder valve on the tank so you can depressurize it before removing the adapter from the master cylinder so you don't get a "brake fluid facial" :-).

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

The Sealey also has as burp valve I confess I have sometimes forgot to use it :-)

[@mikedayitt]

looked like you had a keg of beer there for a moment....thoght its so "easy" that you need a keg to do the job? lol

[@frugalprepper]

That is a cool tool, but I couldn't justify the cost in my DIY garage. Luckily I have had my 9 year old fully trained on the pump and hold technique since he was 6. Normally whenever I do pads/shoes I just take all the old out with a turkey baster and fill will new, then crimp off the brake line and crack the bleeder open when I squeeze the pistons back (sometimes I repeat that process a few times) and it works enough out each time that it doesn't' get to bad.

[@cookiemonster-tx2qe]

FrugalPrepper just hold the pedal to the floor to stop fluid running out.

[@theoldwizard998]

I had to call my 35 year old son over for the pump and hold last time ! I just could not get a solid pedal with vacuum bleed.

[@jonbarfield4915]

FrugalPrepper ) that's how I started back in the day. The 70s was cool.

[@seoprofitspro8025]

Guys you can find these at military surplus auctions now and then, that's where I bought mine years ago. I new this from my years in the Air Force. The unit cost me $50.00 a far cry from the $600.00 to $1,000.00 the military paid for it. We called ours R2D2 lol :)

[@miket6978]

crimping brake hoses is a horrible idea. older hoses collapse inside and keep the pistons from retracting completely. a better method would be to use a stick or prybar a hold the brake pedal to the floor. once the master cylinder is extended no fluid can flow in or out of the master because the fluid reservoir drilling is blocked off.

[@av8tore71]

GearWrench (KDT3795) Brake Bleeder Tank from Tooltopia Regular $695.00 marked down to $279.00. I have one because I use it to bleed the breaks on Mooney's, Cessna's and Beechcraft or basically any airplanes I work on. They are very awesome to have specially when I'm by myself!

[@360fanboy360]

tighten til you hear the crack loosen a quarter turn

[@mikecampbell9909]

the vac systems, in my opinion, pull a lot of air from the bleeder screw and around the nozzle- dielectric grease helps some but I'm gonna get one of these for my shop.

[@mikecampbell9909]

never mind, you said that at 3:00........

[@truetexan7755]

I never change or bleed brakes. Just push harder on the peddle every year till I hear the sequels and wait for the grinding to get a good bite on the rotors. After about ten years I just ride the grind all the time. People tend to stay far away from me on the highway.

[@TheOcculus]

Motive Products sells a fairly affordable pressure bleeder, for shadetree guys, that looks like it's based on the DIY homemade ACE hardware weed sprayer pressure bleeder. I built a weed sprayer pressure bleeder 25 years ago before Motive started selling theirs for less than it would cost me to build mine now. I still use the darn thing with some of the Motive Products MC caps LOL

[@brucebaxter7930]

Cool. Hadn’t seen this video. I have a schwaben power bleeder that functions like that but with a smaller reservoir and hand pump to pressurize. Under $100 with a reservoir to catch fluid at the calipers.

[@lloydballard7051]

Another way to avoid bleeder screw sucking air. Modify a spare bleeder screw, drill it out top to bottom. Screw it in tight and then pressure or vacuum bleed. When done replace it with regular bleeder screw.

[@gatorsworld]

Good one Eric....I have to do this on my 99 GMC and I don`t have a misses O so I think I must explore your way.....you should check out Steve Rod warning on cutting the raps....a good learning process for you if your not to old.....CHEERS

[@gatorsworld]

correction....it`s for tye-raps....don`t cut them

[@laohantun7404]

Thanks mate.....first time saw your bleeding equipment.

[@speedfreak8200]

Nice cv boots... Great video. One can also use Teflon Tape on bleeder threads instead of grease

[@The_Noticer.]

9:50 actually a small bubble did escape, Eric :D

[@grapeknutz]

Try Teflon tape om the brake bleeder screws instead of grease.

[@petrocksgarage]

The problem with teflon tape is you have to re-apply it every time you loosen the bleeder, which means you have to remove the bleeder, letting fluid out and air in which you don't want. Also, you run the risk of getting bits of tape in the brake system as the teflon tape degrades from the brake fluid over time, potentially causing a clog , which you definitely don't want. Grease is very easy to apply, cheap, readily available, and super simple to clean up without having to open the brake system or anything like that. Just sayin'...

[@petrocksgarage]

@@candeffect, your analogy is a little off. Grease does not go down into the hole that the bleeder goes into. It is all external. 10-15 inHg is not nearly high enough vacuum pressure to suck the grease down into the threads either. So the grease will not come in contact with the fluid. For teflon tape to work you have to get the tape around the bleeder screw threads and therefor into the hole that the bleeder goes into when you screw the bleeder screw back in place. Unless your brake system is dry when you install the bleeder screw with the tape back into the caliper there will be brake fluid flowing out of the caliper and coming in contact with the tape. So there is no way for the tape to remain dry. There are also only a few turns of threads to work with on the bleeder screw, much narrower than a strip of teflon tape. So I don't see how you can guarantee that the tape does not come in contact with the fluid and get into the system. Teflon tape does not hold up well against Dot-3/4 fluid and will brake down leaving particles in your brake system that you definitely don't want. Now for the elephant in the room: what do you do with the tape when you are done? Do you uninstall the bleeder screw to remove the tape or leave the screw & tape in there? If the former you are leaving tape in your system. If the latter, you are letting air back in your system when you uninstall the screw undoing the bleed job you just completed. So I don't see the benefit of using teflon tape.