Why Your Ammonia Test Kit is Probably Lying to You!

Hello Fellow Fish Keepers,
In this video we talk about the importance of unionized ammonia in your fish tank and why your ammonia test kit isn't telling you the whole story. Below are a couple really good references that will help you calculate unionized ammonia:
Explanation and chart: www.patroutint...
UIA Calculator: www.hamzasreef...
API Test Kit (Affiliate Link): amzn.to/2GSjqoy
If you want to see more behind the scenes stuff, exclusive videos and support the channel consider becoming a member! / @primetimeaquatics
Also, our new shirts can be found at: www.primetimea...
For the latest in the fish room check us out on Instagram primetime_aquatics
Thanks for watching!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Looking for a water test kit? API Test Kit (Affiliate Link): amzn.to/2GSjqoy Want to know more about water parameters? Check out these videos! Here is more information about water parameters. Definitely worth a look if you are trying to learn all you can about the subject! What exactly is the nitrogen cycle? kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnfTf2etjcygnKs What is Water Hardness? kzbin.info/www/bejne/roO8laesltCZrJI How Does pH Impact Fish Health? kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmqxXn2intamgMk How to Lower Ammonia: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a52QgYKfeMhjmqs How to Lower Nitrites: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaWbqqRjrsmCl6c How to Lower Nitrates: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIXHm52Qh6d8erc What Does Water Quality Really Mean? kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipyzqIR9fJZ_g7M

[@josephdy9930]

Api sucks, doesnt distinguish between nh3 and nh4 get a sera master box

[@RikRussell]

Brilliantly explained. I am a freshwater newbie who is currently waiting for first ever tank to cycle. Keep up the good work.

[@robslater840]

Test kit is lying to you! ...Now buy the test kit?

[@darrylmoore5847]

I wish videos (like this)existed 30 years ago when I started in the hobby. Your channel is such a great resource to all of us in the hobby, because no matter how long you have been doing this sometimes it is good to get a second opinion.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I find myself wishing the same when I watch other channels too! : -)

[@breese4907]

I've heard somebody talking about pH and temp affecting amonia toxicity, but I've never had it explained so well! Thank you!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you! Appreciate you watching

[@veronicapachecoalbornoz426]

Thanks for the good information! As a wildlife biologist it drives me crazy when people in the hobby explain things but doesn’t give you the full picture or explain the whys! I love your channel! I almost don’t watch anything else about fish keeping but your videos!! Still struggling with my first tank cycle but having patience. Thanks!!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you for being here!

[@Rapha142]

Bloody great explanation. I've been keeping adult fancy goldfish for the past 5 years in the same tank and i kept getting ammonia readings of 0.25-0.50ppm and burned to different kinds of test kits. No wonder all my fish survived these past 5 years.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you!

[@crystalc9036]

I have been in a panic about ammonia in my tank doing water changes and never testing 0. Using the calculator was very enlightening. Turns out it was only .0005 ppm. These companies need to do a better job of explaining on the packaging what the ammonia is actually testing! I have been doing unnecessary water changes. Thank you for educating me!

[@alyssasandhoff4307]

This is the most helpful video I’ve watched for a long time. This gave me so much peace of mind as my total ammonia has remained at 0.25 ppm for quite some time now. However, My UIA is quite low. I’m so happy to have learned this. Thank you!!!!!!

[@victoriaolender6289]

I've never had this really explained to me in detail, just bits and pieces like if your ph is lower than 7.0, ammonia is in its less toxic form. Never have I seen a tool to actually calculate UIA, so thank you very much for providing that. I can see why companies might want to make test kits to calculate total amounts, as this would be very difficult for new or inexperienced fishkeepers to understand. I love that there is so much science to go along with fishkeeping, but it does take a LOT of time, research, and trial and error to begin to understand how your aquarium functions. I feel like every time I stumble upon one of your videos a new door opens up and I love that feeling of discovering something new about my aquarium! You are very articulate and being able to explain complicated topics in a straightforward way is truly a wonderful skill!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you Victoria! Appreciate you watching. I love the science behind fish-keeping as well!

[@Unsensitive]

Thanks much for this info. I measured 4-8ppm today. Fish seemed fine, but I didn't want my wife to lose her fish! Added started doing a 50% water change and added some ammo lock. Glad to know they will be fine. She got excited and added fish when we she saw the ammonia level hit zero for the first time. Maybe was the plants pulling it down, and wasn't fully cycled yet.

[@tiffanywilliams7763]

I know this is an old video but I am getting back into the hobby after many years away & it is so helpful along with everything else yall post. Thank you so much.

[@hbarwickjr]

Keep learning more about ammonia. Now how to fine tune it precisely concerning the welfare of the fish. Thank you so much!

[@davidtennien39]

This helped so much. My total ammonia is always around .5-1ppm but my fish seem fine. Now I know why. Thanks.

[@reptilesfishandmore]

I been fishkeeping since I was about 8. Your videos are very good. Still learning new info from watching your videos. Good job!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you! Glad you are watching.

[@darrenwallace7471]

Great info, my ammonia levels were driving me nuts even when my tank is cycled, turns out I have some ammonia in my water. Something to bare in mind to test your tap water not just what you’re putting in your tank I find has helped me a lot. API test kits will always show if you do.

[@sabretooth0467]

This may be easier. The common aquarium “ammonia” test measures the total ammonia, both ionized and un-ionized (Total Ammonia Nitrogen or TAN). The chronic toxicity, where the ammonia kills slowly by a variety of mechanisms, is as follows: 20 to 100 ppm of ammonia TAN at a pH of 6.0 2 to 10 ppm of ammonia TAN at a pH of 7.0 0.2 to 1 ppm of ammonia TAN at a pH of 8.0 Any pH between the above numbers you will have to make a linear interpolation. As you can see there is a 10X increase or decrease in toxicity between pH levels. A pH of 6.5 will reduce the growth of beneficial bacteria by 90%. A pH of 6.0 will virtually stop beneficial bacteria from oxidizing ammonia to nitrate; hence ammonia may be on the rise. Just an FYI...

[@marcuscooper9544]

Thanks for this. I've been trying to figure out what's going on in my 300L(80g) tank as I had a couple of fish start looking sick. I've not been doing much maintenance or water changes as the tank is lightly stocked, has a big filter, and is half full of java moss (and because I have a young child who exhausts me and isn't aquarium maintenance friendly). I freaked out when my ammonia came back as at least 8.0ppm (as high as the chart goes) and wondered why everything wasn't dead... but the other scary result was the pH coming in at 6.0 or lower (again, as low as the scale went). After a few water changes I'm down to about 2.0ppm ammonia and the pH is up to about 6.4. What's perplexing me is how my pH 8.4 tap water got down to 6.0?? Also, after reading your post - are all my bacteria dead due to the low pH, or just inert - ready to spring back into action now the pH is on the rise? Also (last one) if the pH is at 6.0 how is all the fish and food waste processed?

[@RoxusRemo]

@@marcuscooper9544 How did you end up sorting this one?

[@atty.veronicainoturanosg3487]

I currently have the same problem as @Marcus Cooper. Using the API Freshwater Master Kit daily, but no changes all this past month: - Tank: 75 gallon standard - Fishes: 7 goldfishes - Filters: 2 Cascade 1500 canisters & 1 sponge filter - Airpump: Hailea CP-60 AC/DC - Set-up Date: 10/30/2021 - Date Today: 1/3/2022 a. AMMONIA: Stuck at 4.00ppm since 12/14/2021 b. NITRITE: Stuck at 0.00ppm since 11/20/2021 c. NITRATE: Stuck at 40.00 to 80.00 ppm since 12/14/2021 d. pH: Stuck at 6.00 since 12/10/2021 - Double-dosing daily with SeaChem Prime every 24 hours (3 capfuls = 75g) - Dosing daily with AquaVitro Seed by SeaChem every 24 hours (4 capfuls = 75g)

[@apaulmcdonough2170]

@@atty.veronicainoturanosg3487 you have to get your Ammonia well below 4.0ppm, between 2.0ppm to a maximum of 3.0ppm. WATER CHANGES! Ammonia at 4.0ppm is TOXIC to the Bacteria that convert Ammonia to Nitrite, and even more so to the Bacteria that convert Nitrite into NitrAte. Seachem's Prime Does NOT remove or lower Ammonia concentration, it simply reduces the Toxicity of Ammonia for a short term of only 2 days. Get the Ammonia level Down and start dosing with Seachem's Stability to seed your Bacteria Colonies.

[@bluegum6438]

Interesting how the TAN is less toxic with decreasing pH but also ends up being processed more slowly, and vice versa. I would guess that aiming for a neutral to slightly basic pH (7 - 7.4) is optimal?

[@saktah]

Mind blown!! This makes so much sense with acclimation!

[@Heidi-tr3dh]

You have explained everything so well and so clearly! Thank you very much! I'm really pleased I found your channel! I'm new to fish keeping and only have a basic tank at the moment, one little bristle nose pleco and some blue jelly shrimp. I didn't have a test kit which I know is bad, so thought I'd better learn a bit more about which one to buy. I have been really confused by all the sales and waffle on the internet. Everything makes sense now! Thank you.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Glad it helped - good luck!

[@aseriouslollygagger5734]

Great explanation, helped me understand what just happened in my tank, thanks. My new guppies showed signs of ick. I turned up the temperature, gave them some minerals, broke out the air stone, and started medication. The raise in temperature, ph, and the recent birth of fry made the ammonia spike and red brown algae started taking over. I read that that kind of algae likes ammonia and is a sign things aren't right in the tank. Now the ich is gone, the temp and ph are lower, the parameters are all good, the algae is gone and the water is clear and smells normal. Knowing how these variables can affect each other makes it easier to make informed decisions.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Appreciate you sharing. Great example of how everything ties together!

[@dawnhiles3]

This is so useful, I'm new to fish keeping but it's so much easier to remember what to do and how to make your own decisions when someone has taken the time to explain the science behind it clearly, thankyou!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you!

[@crazybirds9673]

Thanks so much. I am stressing because my tap water comes out with a 1ppm reading but I'm going to use the info you just shared to look into what is the UIA.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Awesome!

[@mrSalior1]

Thank you so much. I’ve been having ammonia problems in a new planted tank everything is fine and normal but can’t get ammonia at 0 now I know it’s fine as the fish see absolutely fine

[@RoxusRemo]

This is a great video and very educational. I've been battling constant reading of 0.25ppm in my 6 week old shrimp tank and doing daily water changes with prime... and allsorts of stupid stuff.. panicking and thinking my shrimp are going to die. I'm going to leave the tank now for 3-4days and just see what happens... Is this what you would advise? I'm at 7ph and 20c so hopefully there isn't any problems...?

[@berndmayer1765]

Matt,Zeolith will suck up your ammonia.

[@TheRoosterGr]

Thanks for explaining this, it will help a lot of people.

[@therastareefer]

An A class explantation that’s both comprehensive and resourceful, that has now fortified my water quality management approach to marine biology 👍🏾 . I will certainly promote your channel and this video in my upcoming marine tank series 🔥💨🇯🇲🇨🇦

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you!

[@michaelhokie]

Thank you for this video! Both the info provided and the link to the UIA Calculator is a game changer for me.

[@darkehorse71]

Wow. This is great information. I really love your channel. I always love your videos, so informative.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you for being here!

[@alicorydorie5429]

Darn, the link to the chart doesn't work anymore 😕!

[@YosheetaBoneeta]

That was a little bit click batey, but I'm glad I clicked. I learnt something today, a fairly complex concept explained very well.

[@bigfoxki]

Thank you, I had this problem a few year back with moss pellet, and not much info on the web back then. I am surprise someone made a video about his.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you! I love nerding out about water parameters. : -)

[@bigfoxki]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics Me too, now I can freely use my moss pellet again.

[@FishRfun]

Hey this brings up something interesting...at I think it would be interesting. I don't even test my water anymore because month after month for well over a year and it's always been fine, I just stopped testing. I have some strips that I'll use maybe 4 times per year. Yall should do a survey so people hopefully will be honest, to see often people really test their water, and what they use ...strips or the master kit

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I think I will do that! I don't test my water unless something is wrong, which is very rare.

[@FishRfun]

@PrimeTimeAquatics awesome!

[@wingstoflymusictolife7443]

Thank you so much for making this video! I am somewhat new to fish keeping with two goldfish, and knowing how much ammonia goldfish produce I've always closely monitored the water parameters. I have been using the API Test strips, and although they measure the ammonia, they do not state what ammonia levels are safe for what fish which left me quite confused. This video put my nerves at ease! Thanks!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Great to hear! Thanks for watching.

[@beccaparks7497]

Where is the link that was mentioned in the video about the how to figure the math?

[@bobwright8789]

Wow I rarely see a good fish keeping video on KZbin. Good job my friend.

[@brunomai934]

You have no idea how much you helped me. Thank you!!!!!!!!!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Glad it helped!

[@FishTankBarn]

Very good video. Very well explained. Thanks for the information.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you!

[@VolCanixWorx]

I actually love my Seachem ammonia alert. It's rather basic, but i can move it around from tank to tank, and it reads it within 15 minutes. From

[@gm836]

So much valuable information in one video. Thank you sir.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you!

[@ericolsen5917]

Quick question. I have a 10 gallon new tank set up for 4 days with 4 small tetra. I am using a cap full of beneficial bacteria to start. My question is, should I keep the 3 small potted, live and untied plants in their small pot left unpacked in order to keep whatever beneficial bacteria from the past tank. Do you think that the small pots have enough bacteria to help keep ammonia down?? Just a quick thought.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

It certainly can't hurt. I would through them in.

[@felixortiz6777]

I have a question please if you can help so I checked my ammonia with and api test kit and my ammonia test is cloudy all the other once are ok my tank is clear no ammonia but the test it self comes out cloudy and all my fish died

[@filmicessence1923]

I can’t freaking believe that I found this video way too late and I wasted water because I changed three times my water because I thought my kids fish were going to died. 😒😒 but thank you for informing me about it.

[@f8nomore]

This was extremely helpful to me. Thank you so much! xox

[@madfishdiva]

Excellent information. We needed to know this.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you!

[@the1executioner312]

LOL this is what biochemistry college level is all about. Amino acids have functional groups (-NH2). It can be protonated under the right pH and temperature. Now I'm seeing biochem in fish hobby. Very nice!!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

It's everywhere! Haha

[@TheSwiftCreek2]

Thanks for the video!

[@plexserver2922]

Thanks. My tank is exactly the params of the 3rd example you gave (sans ammonia). Now I know to be EXTRA careful about ammonia. I'll probably test more often.

[@hannah-mariedonovan4681]

TEMPERATURE OF TANK IS AROUND 19 TO 19.5 The tank isnt heated , but eqalizes with the room temperature the tank is in. PH is btween 7.5 and 8, tank is around 240 litres. We had a large Goldfish in our pond who was very sick she had fin rot, so we brought her inside into a tank... her fin rot improved , BUT there was a leak into the tank of batery acid, i did not know about... i bought a light for the tank (it was supposed to be for aqariums) We emptied 50 percent of the water out immediatly, and we have done 30, then 25 perent changes since ...we have THOROUGHLY cleaned the tank, .. even left the poor fish with no plants for a ouple of days for the filter to 'clean' the bits floating in the water. We added LOADS AND LOADS of bacteria to the filter, and the water,=... but our test kit is still showing between 0 and 0.25 ppm We have dont EVERYTHING right... but still our poor fish has amonia burns... she has black edges on her fins and tail and she has black bits on her body and gills... she isnt eating and 'floats' most of the time at the topor just flatens herself on the sides... we dont know what else to do... how can we cure her burns, and how can we get the blinkin amonia to 0 PPM...??? ph is between 7.5 and 8 HELP PLEASE... we love our fish, she is 14 inches long we have given her salt baths of 3 minutes twice..to help her osmosis. she is a gorgous fish, we really have tried everything to help but now we are at our wits end.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

FOr us the only bacteria that has worked is Fritzyme 7 (or in this case Turbo Start). RIght now the only thing you can do is large daily water changes daily. Hope everything works out ok.

[@hannah-mariedonovan4681]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics Thankyou, is the PH right for her? the temperature and the litres and ph show on the calculator in your description that the amonia is within safe limits. ... so i am confused. It is a freshwater tank so i put zero for salinity.. have i dont it right? We have small shrimos in there for her to eat, as she isnt eating anything and they are not dying... so we figure the water cant be too bad if shrimp can live in it.

[@FreeThinkingWisdom]

Explanation and chart link is broken.

[@jtiso2395]

You're the best my man

[@ryangalvatron4451]

How do I test for salinity? It seems to be part of the parameters for the calculator. I know that even though my tank is freshwater, it can still have salinity at low levels. My API test kit keeps showing 0.25ppm for ammonia with 0ppm nitrites AND 40-60PPM of nitrates.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Good question - unless one is adding salt to an aquarium most freshwater systems are around 1% NaCl

[@riduwangafoor]

Wow! Amazing explanation! Thanks!!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ejfishes7610]

Very informative, thanks for sharing!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thanks Man!

[@bobbygsproaquarium]

Great video Jason, thanks!

[@itsjustweard2328]

Oh oOoOO my gosh I'm new to this whole fish thing and I'm not good with math or chemicals at all. And what happens if you need to change the water. But the water you're putting in from out of your tap is bad do we need to test that first . And how often do we test

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

It’s worth testing your tap water. I only rest until there is no ammonia, no nitrite and my water changes are keeping nitrates at 20ppm or less.

[@markblas7595]

Awesome video thanks!

[@JeffMonkman]

Great info. Thanks

[@howardhopkinson]

Thank you for your excellent video. You now have a new subscriber!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Thank you! Glad you are here!

[@tkay711]

Hello Jason. I know this was a few years ago. Hope you still see these comments. I was looking at that calculator. It has salinity on it. How do we figure that? When I calculated your examples I got something different. One of my tanks has an ammonia spike and my tap water also has ammonia in it. Thanks!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Salinity won’t have too much impact on calculations since it’s about 0.9% in freshwater.

[@sallyi3969]

I started a new tank , I used some fritz turbo start they said the tank will be ready to add fish in less then five day ... Its been five day already and the ammonia level is 0.25 ppm .

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I've always been able to add right away?

[@freshfalcon3996]

Stellar beard my friend. Props.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Why thank you! : -)

[@Salem_Gracian]

I'm losing my shtuff lately trying to find out what's going on with my GBR tank. Thought it was fully cycled but my API is saying otherwise (on a 2 year old tank) and Tetra strips say something different for the parameters. API says I have stupid high nitrite and a pH of about 7.0 while Tetra says I have low nitrites and nitrates with a pH around as high as it can report and tap water that is hard with moderate KH. Temp is around 82°F both say 0 NH3/NH4+.. I'm confused and worried.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I doubt you have high nitrite in your tank if it’s been running for a couple years, there have been no significant changes and the fish look ok. 😀

[@Salem_Gracian]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics I think I need to replace my API kit. Thanks for the response!

[@rexwater1]

Thank you!!! New 30 gal tank 4th day with three smallish hardy fish to establish cycle. Ammonia at 1 ppm and pH up to 8.4. per my API test kit. Water tests ok at Petco per strips 🤔( Ammonia at 0.25 ppm / pH 7.2)...hmmm but fish are not acting quite right. Partial water change did not help levels. Tested water at tap and it ALSO reads 1ppm. Recent article in news about use of chlorAMINES in city supply.. Double dosed with Seachem Prime. Fish started acting better in minutes. Ammonia now 0.25 ppm per API test kit. Added nitrifying bacteria. Thoughts, especially regarding maintenance water changes with 0.1 ppm ammonia tap?? Yikes. Thanks!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

You could leave the water out for a day and use something like Fritz ACCR. That should neutralize the ammonia.

[@rexwater1]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics thank you sir!!

[@daves1020]

I have the API Master Test kit and may be doing the NITRATE test wrong. I have been putting 5 ml of water in the test tube, shaking Bottle 1 a little, then adding the 10 drops, then shaking that tube for 30 seconds. Then I shake Bottle#2, not sure if 30 seconds, then add 10 drops to the test tube, shake for 1 minute. Then wait for the 5 minutes. My Nitrates are always reading very high! Am I doing this wrong? In this video, you just add 10 drops of Bottle 1 and invert a few times, then shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds, then add the 10 drops, and shake the test tube for 1 minute, then wait 5 mins. Am I NOT supposed to shake the test tube with bottle #1 drops for 30 seconds? So confused on this one. All my parameters are fine except the Nitrate! PH is 7.2, Ammonia and Nitrite 0 ppm. Help please.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I have never had issues doing it the way I do it. It might be worth a try?

[@daves1020]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics Thank you, just did it and same results. High Nitrates! :( Been dealing with this for weeks and have tried water changes, Prime, Stability, Pristine,...Purigen and Algone in my filters. Fish seem to be fine and healthy.

[@Fathernsonadventures]

So I'm reading consistently under 4.0 PM ammonia/ ammonium but never get over .25ppm nitrite unless my betta kills a fish over night then next day I get a nitrite reading of .25-.5 but without a fish being killed it stays at zeroppm for nitrite and I get 0ppm nitrate- a .5 nitrate reading once and a while. I do water changes once or twice a week based off how much fish poop i see and ammonia levels and i do big water changes I'm talking i drain about 15 out of 20 gallons fill it with the same temp water with api stress coat, then i again drain 15 gallons then fill again. I've never lost a fish doing it that way i use a python for water changes i test the water temperature before filling each time. And i will be honest i still get an ammonia reading after changing 15 gallons of water of 20 gallon tank 2 times in less than an hour. I know it is risky but my fish enjoy playing with that fast moving water as the tank fills. And i have so much dust or dead brine shrimp floating in the tank i cant get rid of it all. I squeeze out sponge filters once a month or when i seen the white dots all over it. I even gravel vac the substrate and every time i change the water i vacuum off the filters. 1 how can i get rid of all the dead brine shrimp in my tank and 2 why do i still get an ammonia reading even after changing 150% of the water in my 20 long. I have 2 molle which sit there eating all the white dots off the ground and decor and i have 10 shrimp which spend all day helping eat everything on the ground. I know black molles can eat shrimp but they dont even care to eat them so they are safe.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

If your tap water doesn't have any ammonia it sounds like your tank has completed the cycle yet, which can take a month or more. Fritzyme 7 or Turbo Start can help speed things up.

[@Fathernsonadventures]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics awesome thank you which one would be better. And can I use them with api quick start

[@kevinoconnell8242]

If ammonia lock is used, is the resultant "locked" ammonia available to the beneficial bacteria?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Great question! No, it slows the natural nitrification process.

[@kevinoconnell8242]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics so it is still available...no?

[@GreatQueenFan]

Would some ph, NO3 and NO2 test strips suffice for checking the water quality when cycling a new tank? I understand they may not be as precise as an API master kit.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Sure, I use them often because they are more convenient.

[@adeelshaikh2129]

Good info thanks

[@swannydeehosinpepper9655]

I just started a tank 8 days ago.. I used BB in a bottle, 2 diff types.. I only have three small fish about 1 1/8" each.. Just Sunday, I got some properly cycled filter material from one of the local shops and put it into my HOB, under the sponge.. I have an Aqua Clear HOB and a sponge filter of proper size for the tank.. Each of my filters, on it's own, are able to filter 50 to 60 % more than the recommended minimum size for the tank.. They are Mbuna and I need someone to tell me what kind of food that they have had success with feeding these small fish.. They seem picky eaters.. They all have their fins up and their bellies look good.. They are getting along, with each other, very well.. They were in a small tank with other Mbunas that were 3 1/2 inches and were being chased a lot.. None of their fins were nipped, so they avoided the larger fish's attacks while they were in with the much larger fish.. I know what the parameters of the water should be, pH and hardness.. I am using water that has been filtered by a "Pure" filter, from the tap.. I am using lake salt and Malawi buffer for them.. I am doing 30 to 40% water changes every other day and the tank is still not balanced.. I have a pre-filter on the intake of the HOB filter.. I have cleaned the sponge, in the "Aqua Clear" HOB, in water that had been drawn from the tank.. The parameters of the water that I am putting in when changing is right.. I just can't get this thing cycled properly and I really want to.. I want to put them in a 40 gallon, breeder tank soon.. I want to keep the smaller tank for a hospital and quarantine tank.. Any advice would be greatly appreciated..

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

So I guess I have two answers for you : -). 1) I have been using Fritzyme 7 to assist in the tank cycle (have used it in the last 15 tanks we set up) and haven't had ammonia or nitrite spikes. They were lightly stocked from the start though. 2) As far as food goes, they are usually very aggressive eaters and I don't recall them ever not eating just about anything I put in the tank. I have been using a lot of Northfin kelp flakes, cichlid flakes, community flakes and frozen brine shrimp.

[@aljanecko]

I had to switch to Bottled water for water changes until I get a RO system installed, I always have a small amount of ammonia, under 0.25 ppm that registers in one of my tanks, it’s been running for a year, I gravel vac, do 50% water changes, it’s crazy.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

That can be frustrating.

[@raerae886]

Can someone tell me what to do when your tap water has 1.0ppm n every water change gives your tank a ammonia spike

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Depends on the set-up, but live plants can help, pothos with the roots growing into the tank, some water conditioners also neutralize ammonia. Also, just make sure you have UIA and not NH4+.

[@quagmire5765]

I have a API saltwater test kit and my ammonia test is milky white on my new saltwater tank why is that?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

It usually looks like that if only one of the reagents are added (or the second reagent is bad).

[@dominiquebuoni]

Hey there. Love your videos by the way. One slight problem maybe. You have two links, one to the calculator and one to the chart. But if I enter the same Temp, PH and Ammonia from the chart into the calculator the results are different. So with of the two is correct? E.G. Chart: 24 degrees c, PH 8 and Ammonia 1 = .0502 --- but if you enter the same parameters into the calculator it = .060922

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I believe one wants info about salinity as well. They are both close enough to get a good idea of your water parameters though. : -)

[@dianagood9259]

Thank you for this video it is extremely informative. I have a tank that is 3 months old that cycled, but somewhere along the way I must have messed something up and killed the good bacteria. Now my levels are reading at .25ppm 0 nitrites and 0 nitrates and it's extremely disappointing. I'm leaving for vacation on Saturday and nobody around me really takes care of fish so they won't know to do the water changes or anything. I'm worried I'm going to come home to dead fish. Do you have any recommendations on how to keep the Ammonia levels low? I was going to look into the food that releases over time or bag up the right amount of food and have my daughters fiance feed them every 3 days just to keep the waste levels down. Any advice is welcome. Thank you

[@dianagood9259]

I should add my PH is 8.2 we have harder water here. It is well. I'm mixing with distilled water during water changes to gradually get that down. But it's been holding at 8.2 and I've done quite a few water changes with the distilled water already. I know you want it to gradually move but it's not going down. Also my temp is 78⁰.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

My guess is your KH is probably very high which buffers the water higher so it will be harder to bring it down. Measuring out the feeding will help keep the waste down.

[@theirishman8455]

I have hard water, usual temp of 75-78 and a pH of the 7 range (I live in the FL suburbs) in my other 2 tanks. I’m currently cycling a new tank with a nitrate level of .05ppm, nitrite of 0, and a steady 7ish pH, any suggestions/comments?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

If you have zero ammonia too, you may be ready to add a fish. If you want to be safe just take the cycled media from one of your established tanks and put it in the new one and you should be ready to go.

[@theirishman8455]

Prime Time Aquatics I have the API Master kit and strips, I’m going to continue testing. As far as putting established tank items in this new tank is that the other two have (to me) the dreaded duckweed. Earlier this week, I had no choice but to put my 2 lil Otocinclids in the new tank, and they seem to think they’re in Disney World! Either way, more testing. Thanks for your help and great vids!

[@Adultskater]

What if my PH is low but temp is high? Like 6.8-7.00PH and temp 26C/79F?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

The table should tell you based on your parameters what the UIA would be.

[@Adultskater]

I’m really sorry if this is a silly question but where can I find the table? I have the master test kit you recommended

[@Adultskater]

Also thank you very much for the reply ☺️

[@darrenfaux4882]

Hi. Can you please get the Explanation and Chart link working? Thank you :)

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Looks like the calculator is working. I will have to try and find another source for the explanation. Thanks for letting me know!

[@danielribastandeitnik9550]

This is strange, because the ammonia test that is top seller here in Brazil (from Alcon) has a chart where you cross-reference the value of the total ammonia the test gave and the pH and temperature of the water, so in the end you get the NH3 ppm. Don´t total ammonia tests from other brands bring a chart like this?!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Not that I have seen.

[@danielribastandeitnik9550]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics here is a photo of the chart that comes with the ammonia test from alcon: www.extra-imagens.com.br/PetShop/Peixes/AnalisedeAgua/13446143/1000299380/teste-de-amonia-nh3-agua-doce-alcon-13446143.jpg as you can see, first you read by the color of the water the total ammonia ppm, after you use the chart on the right, together with your pH and temp., to check the concentration of NH3. The color scheme on the chart tells you if you should be worried or not with the result.

[@jimmylee8459]

I'm a novice in the hobby, I think I just left physics class. I learn a lot though from this video

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Glad you are here!

[@Kt-cn2rq]

Ok mine have 40 gallon tank. 8.0 ppm ammonia, pH 7.0, 0 ppm nirate, 0 ppmm nirite. Have used ammonia lock. I haven't fed them for almost 2 week trying get ammonia lower. Have done 4-5 50% water change ( water tested tap water and agitated in buckets tested for correct before adding). Now water is foggy. Added quick start, stress coat, when do water change. Ammonia lock every 2 days. Now I'm just lost.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Try Fritz Turbo Start. It's live nitrifying bacteria that will help jump start your cycle.

[@justinweisberg1634]

I’ve been using my test kit, and nothing shows up for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, or pH. WTH

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

If the tank is really new that usually happens. Within a week or so in a tank with fish ammonia will start showing. If there are no fish and just plants you may not see ammonia or nitrite and about a month or so later you will see nitrate (possibly).

[@heave6810]

Thank for the video and hope you can help me here. My Ph is 6 (or lower coz 6 is lowest API rate) while the ammonia is at 4-8ppm and Nitrite 0 while Nitrate around 5ppm and all my fish is doing fine (neon, guppy). I have no idea on how to reduce the Ammonia coz read it somewhere when pH is 6 or below, the beneficiary bacteria will die off. Please do advise what should be done. My tank is 50L

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

There are still some nitrifying bacteria that survive at a pH around 6 or lower. If the tank is still cycling that is probably the biggest issue right now. If you are keeping fish that require a higher pH, you could always add crushed coral to the substrate or filter bag. If the fish you keep prefer a lower pH you can just leave it, but work to lower the ammonia if you have UIA.

[@heave6810]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics I just remove 2 small driftwood and the pH now at 6.6...any suggestions to drop the ammonia level for now? I can see the fish seems affected by the removal of driftwood

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Try this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a52QgYKfeMhjmqs

[@richardmurphy9892]

Can I ask where you got the figure of 1for the TAN value. The reason I ask is my API test kit only gives a colour scale for the various ammonia levels and a range of values for the colour. Regards Richard Murphy ireland

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

It was the figure we discussed when I did my Masters Cert in Aquaculture and Fish Health.

[@richardmurphy9892]

Excuse my lack of knowledge of Aquaculture but I’ve just looked at my API test kit again and realized I’m reading the colour chart values incorrectly 😂😂 . Every days a school day as they say. Sometimes it’s the way something is explained that switches the light on. Thanks for explaining it so well. Regards Richard Murphy

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Awesome! : -)

[@starlightHT]

To think that in more than 20 years in aquarism I have never been tested for ammonia. I only do it for nitrates and temperatures. And every now and then I see the PH.

[@lyrieth8833]

I have been using the api testing strips are those okay or should I get the actual kit I don't have big tanks a 3.5 gallon and a 10 gallon

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Test strips work ok. I think the conventional wisdom is the Tetra test strips are a little more reliable than API, but the API liquid test kits are better than the any test strips. I wouldn't spend extra money if you already have the test strips though.

[@brandonbruckman4062]

My ammonia is reading 5ppm and it’s been there for a week. This happened after I did a water change, so I decided to do another and it’s still 5ppm. The water I’m adding is well water, 0ammonia and I use prime. the fish have been acting normal from what I can tell, I have 2 oscars.. not sure what to do and really am hoping it’s ammonium.

[@brandonbruckman4062]

I’ve had the tank for a little over a month and thought it was well cycled... any feed back would be appreciated really just want the best for the fish and want to learn.. for now I’m going to continue to add stability daily

[@brandonbruckman4062]

I’m not sure if I should do another water change or let bacteria build up

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Not sure if you have seen this, but it may help. You could also try Fritz Turbo Start 700. There are also ammonia reducing resins made by Marineland and other companies that may help in the short term. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a52QgYKfeMhjmqs

[@brandonbruckman4062]

Prime Time Aquatics I will look into it right now! Thanks man

[@brandonbruckman4062]

Prime Time Aquatics so I watched the video and the thing is all the fish seem to be acting fine, there’s no rapid gasping, they swim up higher in the tank but don’t stay there long they just adventure around and overall just seem healthy... it’s been about a week now of this same 5ppm reading so do you think I’m safe to assume it’s a fluke? Maybe ammonium as you explained in this video? I’m still gonna get the fritz 700 to play it safe but I hope I’m in the clear

[@1969kellyp]

My tank has an ammonia level of 1.0, ph of 6.6 and temp about 77. The newer tank has 0.25 , ph of 7.6 and temp of 78. Is this safe?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I'd try to get the ammonia down. I have a video on how to do that here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a52QgYKfeMhjmqs

[@damonkelly5582]

Hi mate i have a 4foot tank ive now had running for 3 months now my water temp is 25c i also have a canister and 2 internal filter my nitrite and nitrate is 0 my ph lvl is7.0 but my ammonia is at max lvl on test kit have been doin water changes other bacteria etc still have the same issue hope fully u read this

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I would get some used filter media from a disease-free tank. Should come down within a week or so!

[@joudi_pics]

Do thise mean I cant cycle a new tank without fish but with adding 25% pure ammonia?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

You can add ammonia, but I would use a lot less than 25%?

[@StagnantMizu]

i had an aquarium without filter/co2/fertilizer/heater and no water changes for a year now. all fish, shrimp and snails are thriving..

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

It can certainly be done! Our planted 50 gallon low boy is very close to the same situation.

[@ej4851]

What about for saltwater?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I haven't kept salt water before so I'm not sure how the test performs - especially because salt concentrations also play a role in UIA.

[@ej4851]

I appreciate the reply. Great video by the way

[@KimbiW]

The chart color for the pH on the API test kit is so useless, so I am unsure how to figure this stuff out :(

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Don't stress too much about it. If I see any color change for ammonia I know there might be a problem and work to fix it.

[@KimbiW]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics Thanks! Mine is at .25ppt, but I read somewhere that the test almost never show true yellow. Always a tinge of green, which makes me think it's .25ppt :-/ Also, beard goals man! (for my guy, not me, but he says it gets too scratchy).

[@MarcoLiftz]

I’ve had my tank for half a year and I can’t get rid of the ammonia. PH has been high and so has ammonia changed water used ammonia lock ammonia down. Nothing works

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Do you have ammonia in the tap water?

[@pasan.m.jayarathna4962]

Is it a good idea to put some ostracods to my breeding tank.So the fries can feed on young ostracods when they get bigger.My danio fries are free swimming now.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I generally feed all my fry live baby brine shrimp and have really good survival rates! I haven't raised danios, so I'm not certain about there fry sizes, but peacock gudgeon fry are tiny and seem to eat them fairly early on!

[@pasan.m.jayarathna4962]

Thanks Mister. Appreciate your reply.My free swimming fries won't be able to grab the baby ostracods now.But by the time they are growing their will be enough baby ostrocods and fries will be big enough to eat them.So my question is, Will it be safe to feed the fries with ostrocods.Did you had any problems with peacock gudgeon fries after fed them with ostrocods.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

I didn't have any issues.

[@pasan.m.jayarathna4962]

Thanks..

[@british_loony]

I don't have a ammonia problem I have a nitrate problem my water out the tap is 20 on the chart only reason I tested my water is because when I tested my tank is recorded 20 I did a water change and still 20 so I tested my tap water.. my tap water is invested with nitrate

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Some people will run tap water through a multistage carbon filtration system, which can remove nitrates.

[@british_loony]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics thank m8 I'm looking them up now Nitrate Reduction Filter System

[@camilaackerman]

He said... "if your trying to keep them alive..." and I took that personal. 😅

[@Jay-tc6wb]

I hope someone sees this who can help... I have a 20G, 7 platy, 2 mystery snails, 3 ghost shrimp. Cycled for about 3-5 days (I know not long enough 😓), everything was okay but I have an ammonia spike. At first I was reading at 8.0+. I used fritz complete and got it down to 4.0 with a 80% water change. My water has ammonia but it reads at 0.25.. I don’t want to overdose my tank so I stopped putting treatment in but idk I’m lost...

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Fritzyme Turbo Start should do the trick!

[@Jaywil07]

It’s primetime baby!

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

What's up Jay!!

[@cunninlinguslover]

Thank you for your valuable time. Video very well explained.

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Appreciate you watching!

[@renegadetherapper]

Are those white skirt tetras in the back or am I trippin?

[@PrimeTimeAquatics]

Nope, no fish - just lots of birds, and a tiger. You ok? Just kidding - ya, white skirt tetras!

[@renegadetherapper]

@@PrimeTimeAquatics LOL You had me so confused for a second there 😂 well they are beautiful white skirts!! Skirt tetras are some of my absolute favorites. Easy, hardy, and super duper silly 😜

[@stevengreer6940]

Great video man

[@MarcassCarcass]

So i guess Prime would be good to use when drip acclimating fish that have been waiting a long time.