Print 2D Art with a 3D Printer Using the Bambu Lab CMYK Bundle

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🟢 CMYK Bundle*
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Lithophane Maker: lithophanemake...
Bambu Instructions and STLs: wiki.bambulab....
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📚 Chapters:
00:00 - Introduction
00:11 - CMYK Filaments
00:17 - CMYK Demo
00:54 - Shadows
01:04 - LithophaneMaker.com
03:07 - Bambu Studio
06:32 - Assembly
07:43 - M&M Store
08:21 - Cliffs of Moher
09:14 - My Dog Ollie
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ABOUT BAMBU LAB
"Bambu Lab is a consumer tech company focusing on desktop 3D printers. Starting with the X1 series, Bambu Lab builds state-of-the-art 3D printers that break the barriers between the digital and physical worlds, bringing creativity to a whole new level."
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[@JonDicksonPhotography]

This was actually the best how-to video I've seen on this. You demystified the whole process for me...

[@3DPrintStuff]

Glad it was helpful, thanks for the feedback.

[@nAcolz]

Just a piece of advice for you and everyone else watching this tutorial. If you change your Top shell layers you need to adjust also Top shell thickness. ( 4:40 ) If Top shell thickness has a higher value than the Top shell layers would be, it gets priority. Since you're printing with 0.1mm layer height, 0.8mm Top shell thickness = 8 layers. So your Top shell layers setting of 3 has no impact. You need to change the value of Top shell thickness to 0, then it's always using the information from Top shell layers. This information can be found when you hover over the setting and get the pop up explaining the setting. This applies to all prints, not only litophanes. Always read the pop ups for the slicer settings if unsure, you can learn everything this way.

[@paulm1835]

Awesome walk through. Thanks for the side by side comparisons with the different settings. That'll save a lot of people, including myself, from wasting time and filament testing them ourselves.

[@paulgittins6724]

Thanks for your very helpful video. The side by side comparisons with your dog really helped. I've orderd a new .2 nozzel.

[@paulgittins6724]

Quick follow up. The .2 nozzle made a tremendous difference. It takes quite a bit longer, but the wait is well worth it. Your setting guidelines were also of great value. Thanks again.

[@ognightrider8730]

Thank you for this

[@3DPrintStuff]

You're welcome

[@mikedpp8595]

Have you ever experimented with the other color palette option in the Lithophane Maker app? If so, I am curious to hear what you found out.

[@mikecrane2782]

Good walkthrough, and informative. Thank you.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment.

[@quintinkahn7333]

try using the updated settings with a .4 mm nozzle but print it vertically with support stand. you will get much better detail that way while printing still .4 mm

[@mikedpp8595]

Did that create more waste?

[@Amn2k9]

I printed a couple of lithophanes using the Bambu CMYK kit and the suggested settings, as well as using the 0.2 nozzle with 0.1 mm layer height. The yellow color was a bit nuts for some reason. Just way too powerful the yellow. And a person in the picture with beige pants, well the pants got all bright yellow. Other colors were a bit off, but I think mainly because there was this issue with the yellow color. No idea what caused it. Tried to start over with the litophanemaker website, importing the picture again, and slice again. Same issue…..

[@jaxxie17]

Thanks for posting this tutorial with clear instructions! It’s super helpful! Any ideas if the zip file only has a text file in it? I don’t seem to get a preview when I upload any jpg images

[@frozenwalkway]

this is a great video, is it possible to us the cmyk method of shading on a hueforge? i havent found any videos talking about it. perhaps im mist understanding how lithophanes and hueforges differ in how the light transmittence is use because lithos are backlit.

[@3DPrintStuff]

I don't have any experience with hueforge but just did some quick reading on their website and some reddit posts by other users. Seems like the CMYK lithophanes benefit from the backlight providing a more uniform and predictable transmission of light through the image. Allowing for better color mixing. Hueforge relies on ambient light penetrating the layers and then bouncing back. Different filaments transmit different amounts of light which doesn't allow the same color mixing that happens with the backlighting. One of the examples they have on their site shows 10 filaments required to approach the original image. Doesn't look like CMYK is an option for Hueforge but it would be cool to do some test prints to find out if that's the case.

[@frozenwalkway]

@@3DPrintStuff gotcha appreciate you looking into it. I wonder if more thin layers in cmyk could do it or interlacing white as a base or mix layer now instead of on top on lithophane. I just ordered an 1 one with cmyk kit so I'm excited either way.

[@xKazuki117]

Is there a way to add a thickened wall to the Lithophane? and is there over varients of the bambu lab frame? looking for a simpler one that i can combine with a puck LED and a thinner stand.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Not sure exactly what you're asking for. You could play around with adding primitive objects in bambu studio to achieve what you're looking for. You can try and search on www.makerworld.com for a thinner frame. Maybe someone has already designed one.

[@xKazuki117]

@@3DPrintStuff sorry I'm new to printing, trying to add like a thick frame and use a simple stand to hold the photo up.

[@3DPrintStuff]

@@xKazuki117 You'll have to use a 3d modelling software to design the frame size that you're looking for and then you can combine them in bambu studio. openSCAD, tinkerCAD, FreeCAD are some free options but I would steer you towards the free version of fusion360. You could also create the basic frame using objects in bambu studio but this will be kinda tedious.

[@xKazuki117]

@@3DPrintStuff thank you ill try out fusion 360 :)

[@imagineengine]

great and very helpful video. Probably the best I have seen as far as explaining the process goes. Only problem I have is my cmyk kit didnt come with a diffuser. I would contact BL but that would probaly take a month before I ever received one. Thanyou for this video though.

[@3DPrintStuff]

Thanks for the positive feedback. You need to print the diffuser using white PLA. The file can be downloaded at this link: wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/CMYK-color-lithophane-printing-instructions They call it the "Light Guide Plate"

[@imagineengine]

oh ok. I was not aware of that. Do you have to use Jade White or can I just use the white in my CMYK filament bundle? Thanks@@3DPrintStuff

[@3DPrintStuff]

@@imagineengine I used the white from the CMYK bundle and it works great.

[@imagineengine]

thankyou so much. I wish other people were as helpful as you. You just got a new sub. Keep on doing what you do......its great.@@3DPrintStuff

[@productsofoutstandingperfo3564]

The color kit is cheaper than color printer ink.

[@stonedboss4765]

nice guide, thank you

[@3DPrintStuff]

You're welcome, thanks for the comment.

[@jarrodlangford7692]

Just ordered the bundle on discount. My goal is to make some personalized lithophane light boxes for family as holiday gifts.

[@3DPrintStuff]

That'll be a great gift. When you say light boxes are you going to have 4 lithophanes? one for each side?

[@jarrodlangford7692]

@3DPrintStuff Kind of. I'm going to do a collage of photos through hueforge. That's going to be layered on a nice frame with leds behind it. Now that I got the bundle they can be color. 😀

[@stevenjrrice5694]

Did you print these laying flat or vertical? I noticed a SUBSTANTIAL difference in print time and waste by printing vertical, and they say lithophane panels should ALWAYS be printed vertical in the past. If you printed flat, have you noticed any issues?

[@3DPrintStuff]

These are intended to be printed flat. No issues. You would have issues printing these vertically and like you said, a ton of waste.

[@msusewell]

Just to be clear, you printed them all with a 0.4mm nozzle? Then just changed the bambu preset to 0.2mm nozzle but still print with 0.4mm nozzle?

[@3DPrintStuff]

The 0.2mm nozzle prints are printed using a 0.2mm nozzle. If you try and print with a 0.4mm nozzle but 0.2mm profile it wont extrude enough plastic and will result in a horrible print. Sorry if that wasn't clear enough in the video.

[@matttheis3651]

Is the lithophane website broken? It wont preview the image and the zip file only contains a text file and no stl's. Any idea on how to solve this?

[@infernalord1526]

make sure that the image you're using is jpeg format. It won't work with any other format.

[@paulgittins6724]

I noticed this as well. I found that restarting the web site for each lithophane did the trick.

[@flrancid]

Hello, thanks for the vid. Do you know why the USBC cables you have linked don't work for this? I've tried those as well as another brand.. and they don't power the backlight boards. I found two other cables I have for my phones and they DO work.. i'm trying to determine what the difference/issue could be. Any idea?

[@3DPrintStuff]

Hey I'm sorry to hear this. Not sure why this is happening they work for me but I'll remove them from my description until I can look into this further.

[@mogli296]

Try a weaker/older wall charger and a USB-A to USB-C cable. The newer devices often supply too much current and in order to avoid damage, the charging process is then stopped for devices with too low a current requirement.

[@scottsound4711]

I get Error 23900 non-manifoid edges when I load into Bambu Lab , can anyone help 😭

[@RGRparty]

I don’t see a link for the frame.

[@3DPrintStuff]

wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/CMYK-color-lithophane-printing-instructions Scroll down to the section about the frame and there are download links.

[@sideburn]

Is the prime tower necessary?

[@paulm1835]

It's not 100% necessary, but the trade off will be more filament wasted in color changes as it'll have to purge (poop) each color through the shoot. You can change the flushing amount down to make up for some of it though. In my opinion it's more efficient to have the prime tower without adding too much time.

[@sideburn]

@@paulm1835 oh I thought the purge happens always and the additional prime tower was overkill.

[@paulm1835]

@@sideburn That could be the case, you'll definitely have me looking more into it. I generally don't use a prime tower anyways. I lower my flush limits to 100 and it usually works pretty good still.

[@sideburn]

I also read in another comment on another video that the solid CMYK palette selection comes out better than the default. Going to try them both and see.