Problem Solved! Transform Golden Oak Cabinets To A Smooth Finish

[@drwhoeric]

A good painter I know tells me to first sand the original doors and prime them before filling. This makes it easier to identify imperfections and reduces the amount of filling that needs to be done. With the primer being a membrane it also protects from future shrinkage (or expansion) that will occur, so cracking does not appear later. He also uses a non-drying putty type filler and primes again over the smooth finish work before applying the finish coats.

[@torotim]

I’m finding that out as I go. I’m using Aqua Coat and even after applying 3 coats meticulously and inspecting in good light, I still end up with missed spots. I’m now applying 1 coat bog grain filler, prime and then touch up missed spots. Much better results and speeded up the process immensely.

[@gordbrooks1429]

This is a far better process!

[@maryhansen7021]

I was womdering why it wasnt first sanded and what to expect from spackle in the long term.....will it crack? Why non-drying putty filler? Would the paint over it prevent it from denting? non-drying to prevent cracking?

[@drwhoeric]

@@maryhansen7021 You should always sand before priming and painting. I am just saying not to put a lot of effort into the work until after primed. This is when you see the imperfections better and then those imperfections can be addressed.

[@frankzbeanz4200]

That’s what I’m finding out the long way. I’m halfway through refinishing a large kitchen of oak cabinets. This is dead on perfect advice!… that I wish I read 20 cabinets ago! At least I can use it from here on. After the initial priming, the difficult grain spots will be dark against the white paint, making them way easier to see. Also if you fill with a pink/blue color changing compound, it makes it even easier to see the areas you’ve covered (or missed) The wetness factor you mentioned is probably a lot more important than people realize as well. I sanded and filled a handful of cabinets. After priming, I noticed separation in 1 or 2 at the seams and a tiny bit of warping around the frames. Not too bad. But I think you’re right, priming first will help and prevent the wood from absorbing a lot of unnecessary moisture.

[@Domme857]

It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better kzbin.infoUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Great...thanks for watching, Wes

[@brittnigray8017]

Thank you for such an informative video! I saw another comment mentioning it was too long but I disagree. I appreciate that you showed the sanding and application thoroughly. Been trying to find a video like this for awhile and couldn’t so thanks again! Subscribed for more :)

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Great...glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate the comment. Wes

[@vanessaschaefer3593]

Great job with the video. I like the professional look with finished product!

[@steveh3734]

I just painted my oak cabinets to white and used a similar grain fill process as Wes, after a deep degrease with Krud Kutter and dry, I used Timbermate water based wood filler, thinned with water, brushed it in like Wes, but avoided getting filler into detail to save sanding and grain hides in there once painted.. after filler dried, I sanded filler down, removed all dust, primed with 2 coats of BIN shellac and then sprayed 2 coats of BM Advanced with an airless and 310fflp tip, sanding between, they came out great! But just know, its a TON of work to do a whole kitchen like this, so plan to invest some time and labour, but worked great..

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Congrats on your successful project...yep it is a lot of work! Wes

[@alfredsmith9012]

I'm applying this technique for a custom cabinet paint job, works well!!! Thank you😊

[@petemiller519]

Good video Wes, thanks for the great content. I am really impressed you managed to keep your black shirt black after the white spackle and paint :) If that would be me, I would have looked like a snowman after finishing. Cheers from Canada.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Haha...thanks for watching Pete! Wes

[@davidahart2476]

My parents bought a home in Tennessee, the second owners had painted the kitchen cabinets, when my parents had the time they had then stripped and refinished with oak stain, they loved the country look. Now that I have inherited the home and I love the country look too they'll be staying the same.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thanks for your comment...sounds great! Wes

[@EzzieRz]

You’re a pleasure to watch! I really enjoyed this episode and learned a lot! Blessings!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thanks for the comment! Glad you enjoyed the video. Wes

[@alanmooney]

Hi Wes, I love your videos and the presentation of the Chanel, would you consider doing a similar video showing a good technique for doing this sort of finish with a roller and brush

[@davidjulseth8667]

Ive used joint compound and wet sponge, works also.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you...that's a great tip! Wes

[@Tony-cy6ug]

Mr Wes, I truly appreciate your video my daughter and I are doing a special situation ,convertinga cupboard RV motor home your videos are very informative

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Well thank you Tony for your kind words, glad I could be of help. Wes

[@ugaladh]

People keep saying golden oak or natural oak look too "1980's". As a woodworker, I love my natural finish oak kitchen cabinets. I don't see why so many people are in a hurry to "fix" them.

[@jchavins]

I don't get it.....if they want a sooth white finish then replace the cabinets with a slan of particle board and cover it with sheetrock......what stupidity.....then they'll paint it drab grey....sheeesh

[@callieduval3000]

Thank you Wes I was looking for a way to hid the oak pattern on my cabinets

[@Reefraction]

You can also apply the watered down spackle using a putty knife going across the grain. Cuts down on the sanding time and waste of product. Just my two cents. Thanks for all the informative videos.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes...that works too. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@letiziacapra8947]

As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement kzbin.infoUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!

[@godgotus4255]

Great job inspired to do my kitchen soon. Thank you

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

You are so welcome...glad I could be of help! Wes

[@melissahouse3488]

Turned out Beautiful 🤍 I actually like the one with the grain somewhat visible because wood has a natural beauty element, i prefer it not totally glossed & covered up. I might attempt more prepared this time, after not doing the best job on my peninsula base which my wallpaper man is gonna hide. ☺️

[@cynthialevine2293]

I have a situation where we need more cabinets in a remodel that we are doing. The painted new custom cabinets are very smooth (I don’t think they are real wood). My oak cabinets had already been painted, but you can still see where they use to be oak. I’m hoping by doing this my old and new cabinets will look almost the same.

[@MW-xm1rc]

As SOON AS cabinet makers get everyone to paint theirs, THEN Golden Oak cabinets will come back into style!

[@stevelopez372]

Exactly, my first home had painted cabinets, then to keep up with the Joneses I got rid of them for Oak cabinets with stain finish. At a Hefty price even back then. Now to keep up with the Joneses I should paint my Cabinets? I say Hell with the Joneses. Lol.

[@harveyyoung8374]

@@danholtbk7008world wide, it’s how they keep people spending money

[@JoanBrown-j3e]

Who cares what’s ‘in style’? Why can’t people think for themselves and just do what THEY like? I’ve never in my 65+ years been a ‘follower’. Be DIFFERENT!

[@Vicki-r4u]

​@@JoanBrown-j3edesigners and remodelers wouldn't make as much money

[@tomunderwood4283]

Golden Oak cabinets are awesome. Cheap cabinets are painted.

[@danielreyna1644]

Thanks Mr. Wes. I loved the finished product, but I can't decide if I want to go that route. It looks that it is to much!

[@chuckleaf8027]

Great video. I need to learn to paint (spray) doors and trim with that awesome finish. What kid of sprayer is that..??. the paint ??? water based??? Thanks for the tips..!!!!!!

[@lestran712]

I've experimented with this on a few oak cabinets and found that General finishes stain blocking primer, and then 3 coats of their Milk Pain gave a smooth finish and really hid the grains. Might be something you want to try as a demonstration as well. I am know expert, just the results I experienced. I used a Rockler HVLP sprayer and diluted both the printer and milk paint with about 10% filtered water.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you so much for sharing your experience and product recommendations - great tip! Wes

[@MrTotalSense]

THANK YOU. Very helpful! I was restoring an old oak frame, I had two coats of primer, one coat of spray paint, it still looked grainy. I am about to try this.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Great...glad you like the video. Good luck, Wes

[@KayJay940]

I have a bunch of these. Honestly the craftsmanship is far nicer than modern cabinets but it feels like it would be like building an ark to redo all of them and the frame/facings

[@UNBOUNDLOVE1]

I use Aqua Coat filler it dry hard and sands easy so smooth gives all the oak cabinets I do a beautiful smooth showroom finish.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thanks for sharing! Wes

[@jong4939]

As a Finisher I would clean and scuff first. Fine paints of Europe makes a good grain filler, expensive but works. It comes in two variations and the thinner one worked better for me. Mini roller it on and bondo blade it to smooth and remove excess. Give it a try I found it was worth the money. I would try a yellow bondo blade using your method with less water and brush just around detail with another mixed with more water...sometimes a drop of tint helps you see it better if you do a curtain coat of primer first. Someone else mentioned Timbermate.. it doesn't work as well for skimming but is great for other filling.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you Jon for the tips...I appreciate it! Wes

[@MichaelDresslar]

Thank you, I am confident I can take on this project after watching your step by step video!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Wonderful! Glad I could help, Wes

[@SignatureEdits]

AMAZING. Thank you

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...thank you so much!! I appreciate the visit, Wes

[@dmjh932]

I finished furniture for a living for some years. I painted some oak kitchen cabinets a couple years ago and filled the grain with a product named "Aqua Coat". It comes in clear or white. You apply it and use a credit card or a small rubber tool used for caulk smoothing. It works great and goes a long way. To do it right and not waste product, most open grained wood requires 2 applications. Kitchen cabinets should be finished with an acrylic paint and it appropriate formula primer. I use Sherwin Willams Pro Classic line. When spraying paint you might develop or see small craters where the paint has not flowed out. It's because of silicone. You can not sand silicone away. But you can seal it with BIN Shellac base primer by Zinsser. Then top coat it. It takes time and the appropriate steps to get a factory finish on cabinets. A flow out additive also helps if you are brushing the frames.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

David...thank you for adding to our channel with these helpful hints. I appreciate the support. Wes

[@sandraleigh4023]

😵‍💫

[@arlenmargolin4868]

I made the exact same comment before reading yours well at least in regards to using shellac-based primers and I would think you would want to put that primer on before you fill it and again thinking that you're going to effect adhesion of the final coats of paint by just putting on let's say spackle in this case I just don't see how you would get a good Bond of your final coats

[@polocash11]

You help a lot. Watching you I have made some desions. I got the spackling here and while at SW I got their extreme bonding. I will be using BM Advance. I am going to use my Graco x5. I will use a 314 tip, maybe 312. If I hand paint the primer, will this cost me looks in spray paint? Still thinking on the gravity fed HD product.

[@courtneywhitefield9183]

This video was so helpful! Also love your upbeat attitude! Question: I too have golden oak cabinets that I’m going to attempt to paint white. I understand the filler portion, but my cabinets are sealed with a gloss, so I need to sand that before I put in the filler? Or can I put the filler over the gloss? I have some major knots in my wood, will the filler work for those as well? Thanks so much for your time, sir!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Courtney...As far as your gloss finish is concerned, any paint would have a hard time adhering to that glossy surface. I suggest at least a rough sand over the entire surface. Then apply your grain filler and sand ready for paint. The knots in your wood may require a wood filler in order to prepare for paint...if they are not too distinct, your gain filler may accomplish that just fine. Hope this helps...good luck! Wes

[@courtneywhitefield9183]

Thank you so much, Wes!!

[@Chef_Nick]

The music was funny. Great video

[@Via8310]

Great solution. I want to try it thanks, but how much speckle to water did you use?

[@ryzhiialen]

Oak is literally the best material furniture can be made from. You buy it once and do not think about new furniture for the next two hundred years (if you bought something in a classic style, of course). I would prefer to tint it a darker shade, but painting is also a good option. Anything is better than throwing it away and replacing it with sawdust. Sorry for my English

[@fatheroffour6423]

Its like if Bob Ross made cabinets. So calming.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...I have heard that before and thank you for the compliment. Wes

[@susansinnett7171]

Just finished, thank you so much!! Now wondering what the typical dry time is? How can I tell if it's dry?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I like the grain filler to dry overnight and the paint dry to touch in about 1 hour. Hope that helps, Thanks, Wes

[@JWBW123]

Wow, you make it look so easy. I am a DIYer and have been renovating my house the past two years. My next project is my kitchen. Where can I buy the White Vinyl sealer and Pre Cat Lacquer Clear Top Coat?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Check with your local paint provider for a primer sealer product and Pre Cat Lacquer top coat. Be sure to indicate what you are using it for so they can best help you. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@papouteraoul]

Great video, clear explanations ! With these products, what is the expected resistance to scratches and wear to the doors, where the wood would be exposed ? Do you have to refinish the doors in a few years ?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I have seen with my clientele that they have had great, long lasting results. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@tomlandis4657]

Do I need a stain blocking primer as an additional step or is it unnecessary with your suggested process. Your presentation is suburb, Thx!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Tom...any good primer sealer like the one I used shouldn't require a stain block. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@lydialas8756]

@Hello Tom how are you doing

[@andylowry8439]

Nicely presented video and very helpful. Could you do a video on what specific type of paint to use on kitchen unit doors. Is a two pack best, what is it and how to spry it. Many thanks

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...please watch our video kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXSZZqumZq-deZI for spray gun information. Because every area is different with product availability, check you local paint supplier for a good primer sealer. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@GunnerAl9]

Great video, very informative. You made sanding look too easy!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Well thanks for the comment...I appreciate you watching, Wes

[@juanrodriguez-sv4ij]

I just would like to restore my kitchen cabinets. Do not want to paint them. Appreciate your expert input. Thanks.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

If I understand your comment, you just want to refresh the finish on your golden oak. My suggestion would be to clean them thoroughly with soap and water, dry thoroughly and polish with Old English Scratch Cover (light). This would could make a big difference. Thanks, Wes

[@Sean-Aviation]

what prime sealer did you use? i need to paint cabinets but also baseboards and looks like i need a primer

[@justinkraus7784]

Thanks Wes, awesome video!!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

You bet..glad you enjoyed it! Wes

[@edureyes3500]

wow thanks that's a very good tip 👍 thank you patron for your shared ideas

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

My pleasure...thanks for watching. Wes

[@rosangelavazquez9114]

Hi Wes what is the grit on the hand sander you used to get into the profiles? Thank you,

[@tittleluddie]

Wes, our oak cabinets are stained and varnished. Looked very similar to what you started with… question, do we need to sand off the varnish before filling the grain? Or just brush the filler right over the existing varnish finish??? Thank you !

[@Helmuesi911]

Sand first.. you will need to degrease the cabinets first. Then sand or de-gloss them before wood filling. The demonstration in the video is on just a single door. The average kitchen has 25 doors plus drawers and cabinet bases. Truth is it’s a very labor intensive and time consuming project. Hire a professional.

[@donrichardson6804]

I’ve used drywall mud as well. Dry and sand.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Sounds good...thanks for the tip! Wes

[@gatsby6815]

Nice vid for someone with these golden oak cabinets and popcorn ceilings. Well, I removed the popcorn to a nice finish and painted the ceilings. I would attempt this with the cabinets but couldn’t bear not to do both sides, the rails, and flat side panels. Maybe golden oak will come back some day…lol.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thanks for watching...I appreciate your support. Wes

[@michaeltrofimov4909]

Good day, Wes! thank you for these very educating videos! What prime sealer did you use in this video and what spray guns do you have? Thank you in advance!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...please watch our video kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXSZZqumZq-deZI for spray gun information. Because every area is different with product availability, check you local paint supplier for a good primer sealer. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@tabithan2978]

Sherwin Williams light weight shrink free spakle is not harmful to breath when you sand?

[@eattolivewithjanetreed5859]

Wonderful solution since I spent hours repainting the first doors to get them smooth enough to stay clean. I wish I would have watched this a while back! Better late than never! Would this work to fix door already painted that are not smooth?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Janet, after a thorough cleaning and sand, it should work. Thanks, Wes

[@clickster1883]

Do you need to first sand the doors to remove whatever final coat(s) of finish there are (i.e. poly) that may be sealing the pores of the grain so the grain-filling spackle can get in there, or no? Thanks.

[@vh2337]

That's what I was wondering too. I've got a boatload of these throughout my 80's house and am anxious to start painting them.

[@TheAelsayed]

nice video! did you sand the door before you put the shrink free product on?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes...lightly sanded. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@metrocabinet]

To really heavy coats of clawlock 2 primer from ML Campbell with a spray gun feels everything in enough so that you can send it all back with 120 machine sanding and get the same effect in a third of the time

[@leeklimek3811]

Wes, bravo! I've been looking for a solution to my oak cabinets for about two years now. From watching two of your videos, I've finally found crystal-clear and effective means to paint them white! I've seen your "Beyond Paint" video and now this "Transform Golden Oak Cabinets To A Smooth Finish". Both videos are straight forward. I'm leaning towards the "Transform Golden Oak..." method. For the "Transform Golden Oak..." video, can your recommend a manufacturer/brand for the 'White Vinyl Sealer', and the 'Pre Cat Lacquer Clear Top Coat'? Thanks! Again both of your videos that I watched are very well done and most appreciated.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Well thank you Lee....so glad you enjoyed the videos. Good luck in your next project, Wes

[@life2essence]

I have the same question: For the "Transform Golden Oak..." video, can your recommend a manufacturer/brand for the 'White Vinyl Sealer', and the 'Pre Cat Lacquer Clear Top Coat'?@@WoodworkingWithWes

[@tonysorice5142]

great video im ready to paint my kitchen cabinets what should i do brush roller or spray i no spray is better but can you get the same out of a brush and roller thank you,

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Tony...once the grain is filled, there are many choices for painting your door. This includes those available with brush and roller. It is basically your choice, both will do well. Good luck with your project. Wes

[@tonysorice5142]

@@WoodworkingWithWes thank you

[@chicago9458]

That looks a super pro job

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...thanks, glad you visited the channel. 😀 Wes

[@18centwood]

This is good. Another method is a automotive filler primer you can get in spray can. I guess it comes down to how much you use and price.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes Scott thats a good tip. Thanks, Wes

[@george200099]

Wes, This has been very helpful. I am going to paint our oak cabinets and want that smooth finish. Question about compatibility. I was going to clean the cabinets with Krud Cutter, then fill these per your technique, use a latex based primer and then top coat with cabinet paint using a HVLP sprayer. My primary question is will a latex based primer cause problems with the spackle? I'm afraid if I use latex, that the water will destroy the filling properties of the spackle. Can you please advise? Is there a better primer that I should be applying?

[@mz.a5834]

Great video. What kind of paint did you use? Thx

[@Sean-Aviation]

Fantastic video. thank you. what sort of airbrush were you using?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...I was just using a cup gun sprayer, no air brush. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@Sean-Aviation]

with a small air compressor? @@WoodworkingWithWes

[@traciesetzer6850]

Do you have to get the gloss finish off before using the sparkle process?

[@rebeccasmith6776]

I have a lot of kitchen cabinets stained in golden oak topped with spar 440 25 years old. They really held up well but they need updating. Will I need to sand them first before filling them in with spackling or would the spar have filled in the grain? Thank you for your video.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I suggest doing a test sample ~thoroughly clean the old finish ~lightly sand and apply your spackle ~final sand after the spackle ~paint This should give you a smooth surface and then you will be ready for your clear top coat. Good luck! Wes

[@n.w.414]

I love the grain showing!

[@candycanes7581]

Me too!

[@MJ-sj5rk]

Hello from Canada... thank you so much for these videos. You make it all look so easy!! About to embark on painting a large golden oak kitchen with confidence thanks to you... but I am worried about it going yellow. Some say to sand, some say do not sand... do not break the seal because that is when the tannins will come out. Primer, paint and lacquer? Or just primer and paint? It is a big job and I also have built ins to do and a 30 foot wall with golden oak as well. Do I use the same technique for everything? All is Golden Oak... would really like to consult with you and send a couple of pics for advice. Thank you so much!!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

A light sand on the old finish will help your new primer coat adhere better. The primer I use is a pigmented primer sealer so it primes, seals, and is my color coat all in one step. A final clear top coat of pre-cat lacquer finishes it off. Good luck...it will be great. Wes

[@kennethdavis5077]

Good luck , you must have a freaking ton of free time !!!

[@andrewwillis4911]

For a finish without delamination always wash the surfaces to be refinished and sand after for containments such as grease, oils and waxes. Then wash the surfaces clean again. There is no filler, spackle, primer or paint on the market that bonds to anything that is not prepared for adhesion properly.

[@WatchTashi]

I mean, I think that most people who would do this sort of painting project know the basics.

[@andrewwillis4911]

@@WatchTashi Obviously not JulStar13, as the video shows and countless DIYers have called me in on their project after the fact. You sand, wash, prime, fill, sand again, prime again (not vinyl seal as it's components do not adhere to light weight spackle), then spray, brush or roll your topcoats. Far too many KZbinrs, TV Shows and the likes provide false information about the longevity in practical everyday use and wear through time of such projects

[@dimitriszavitsanos9782]

Thanks for your video.. do I need to send or scraping before the spacklng?? Thanks

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes you need to clean and rough up the finish before applying the spackling. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@chaslaspata5385]

I have had to refinish oak cabinets and paint them. You can get the original finish off down to bare wood and then wet the cabinet to raise the grain while it’s still damp, hit it with 120 grit and then dampen again and use a grain sealer. Finish with a base coat of a lacquer and then finish with a lacquer and I got very smooth and very little grain show through. This would work too I just think this wouldn’t be as durable.

[@mmp495]

Wes that was fantastic! Thank you.❤

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you very much for your kind words. Wes

[@JudiGeorge]

Thank you so much for this video. I have painted the bathrooms without the filler and will be doing the kitchen with the filler. The vanities look fine but I would like a more polished look for the kitchen.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your project. Thanks, Wes

[@dothraki7596]

That is gorgeous work!!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you very much!

[@mattalbrecht7471]

Another question: can you use a regular painted on paint or do you recommend a spray paint. If I'm going to use a spray paint I almost have to get all of my cupboards off the wall and take them outside so I don't fill the house up with errant paint fumes and other things that get caught when paint gets stuck in the air. I'd like to see a video on how you do not just the cupboard doors but the rest of the cupboard

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes, you can do this same thing with a paint brush. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@salzafar2030]

Hi Wes, I am going to do my kitchen cabinets using BM advance and wondering if I should do a single or double coat. Thanks

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...as long as it is smooth enough for the single coat, no need for the second. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@mathewthomas7616]

Can i use STIX bonding primer water based + sherwin williams emerald urethane enamel over this for a light gray color. Worried about stain of oak bleeding.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Sorry I am not familiar with those products you would have to give it a try. Thanks, Wes

[@johntruett5310]

Great videos. Question: if we choose to do a cabinet makeover, if the old ways return, can we return to golden oak cabinets?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi John...that would require a complete refinish. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@xxmop123xx]

This was so helpful Thank you! My question is what if the cabinets we are starting with are already painted? My cabinets look exactly like the grainy white one you showed in the beginning. Do I need to remove the paint first?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

From you description, it sounds like removing the paint would be your best option. Hope this helps, Wes

[@taripw]

Hi, just wondering if the drywall spackles will last long on wood.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...I don't that should be a problem. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@Granh6411]

You mentioned you could do this in the kitchen with a paint brush or a roller but wouldnt that show the stroke marks? Or not because the grain has already been filled? Thanks

[@mikemyers7317]

Nice, way easier than other products. What brands of spackle, vynal sealer, and paint do you use?

[@MrDean904]

Can the thinned spackle be used to fill the holes from the original drawer pulls and door knobs or should it be used without being thinned?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Used without thinning for the screw holes. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@sandyriley4772]

I love your videos! Thank you so much for your detailed explanations. Would this process work with red oak also? We have an entry door that we want to paint Black.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Sandy...yes it should work great on red oak. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@natasharose902]

Hi Wes! We are using this video to do our kitchen cabinets. We are using the same spackle from Sherwin Williams, but the instructions say to use less water than described in the video. Is it better for this project to make the spackle more liquidity or should we follow the instructions on the product? We did several doors with following the instructions but i am not confident that we did a great job at filling all of the grain. Wondering if it’s because we didn’t add enough water?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...for most purposes using the spackle with the recommended mixture, such as filling holes in sheetrock, it is the best. For filling the grain in the door before painting, I have found adding a little more water made it easier to get in all the tight places. Don't be afraid to apply a second coat if needed. Good luck on your project, I am sure it will look great! Wes

[@cbrackez22]

Do you have to use a vinyl sealer or can you put paint over it?

[@nw362]

Just finished my upstairs bathroom cabinets after watching your Beyond Paint video. I am so pleased with how they turned out. Would like to do the kitchen cupboards next. Do you recommend a particular sprayer for the paint application? Thank you for your great videos!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I don't think Beyond Paint can be applied with a sprayer. I would suggest checking their website for all application instructions. Thanks. Wes

[@nothingsimpostleble1593]

Freddy most user-friendly you can just rent an airless from Home Depot but make sure to use a Graco fflp spray tip either like a 310 or 410

[@CarrieJo5916]

Oh, geez everyone. I think I'll let somebody else paint my cabinets or buy new. That's too much time for a house I want to sell. 😂

[@briantyrrell3657]

I was surprised to hear a local cabinetmaker tell me that its common for cabinet finishers to use Bondo to smooth out cabinets which is quite toxic. Is the grain filler you are using any less toxic than Bondo?

[@Abdulkhan-fs1bp]

Wonderful video. Was reading all the questions and comments but could not find Any answer. To speed up things will it be possible to apply speckle using a paint roller with very very light pressure? I already had gel stained in dark colour and now want to paint. Any recommendations?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I don't think a paint roller would work since it would be hard to get down into the door profile. As far as the gel stain is concerned, a test sample would be my suggestion before starting the whole project. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@BX-me4tk]

Hi Wes, do you this process with the cabinet box also if the box trim is solid oak? Thank you. Also this is one of my favorite videos!!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes...I would do that. Thanks for being part of our community. Wes

[@robertjimenez5832]

It is a special putty to fill scratches or holes yu have used in one of your videos? Thanks for all this!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Robert....I use Famowood Wood Filler and can be purchased from most retail lumber yards or on line. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@mrssoliloquy]

Awesome video!!!

[@Thug_--_life]

i missed valuable content thanks a lot

[@bguy1979]

Thanks Wes!! Great video!!!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks, Wes

[@ryanseward4573]

Hey would you mind sharing the spray gun you use?

[@01jbeals]

I have your video on while I am painting an IKEA Loft bed for my 5 year old son. Anyways, after I am done with this project I am going to repaint the pantry doors in my kitchen as I found that replacing these two sliding doors would cost between $300-$700 which gives me a slight panic attack. So I decided that I would instead see if I could use the grain filler on the sliding pantry doors… is this possible? I assume that it would be but I don’t want to find anything out the hard way lol.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Jennifer...yes it should work just fine on your sliding doors. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@01jbeals]

@@WoodworkingWithWes thank you for the response 😃

[@carbonarrow7]

How about a video on how to prep and paint those paper vinyl wood looking MDF cabinets and doors so the paint stays on and does not scrape or rub off easy.

[@mattalbrecht7471]

Can you use drywall mud with the consistency of a pancake batter? But would you recommend spackle watered down? And the vinyl seal that you sprayed on there did you put that on after the white paint or was the white paint containing a vinyl sealant

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Matt...I have never tried the drywall mud and the white paint was the primer sealer coat. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@rclutsam2112]

Great video, very informative. I tried a similar application with drywall mud thinned with water and brushed on. The wood was raw Oak. The issue I had was bubbling in the veneer of the Oak plywood. Not on all surfaces, but enough to make me stop the process. Do you think that priming the wood first, then trying the technique would resolve this issue? I am thinking the primer would act as a sealer for the veneer and keep the water out. I am building a large set of built-in bookcases, and while I would not standardly use Oak for a painted project, I had it on hand and with the price of lumber right now ... - Anyway, any advice would be much appreciated.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Robert...yes, the veneer needs to be sealed and the primer should do the job. Good luck. Thanks, Wes

[@nothingsimpostleble1593]

I'm a journeyman painter and I think doing this to 58doors front and back and 24 drawers(the size of the job I just started today) your talking replacement cost. All your doing is filling the pores of the wood(youll still see the waves of the oak grain) while promising a 100% flush factory finish which isn't happening.. you could probably do your method like you did on ONE SIDE but if you were to the spackle ON BOTH SIDES with a vinyl sealer and then two coats of finish yeah you'd have to charge 180-200 dollars a door might as well just get new doors.. And on oak your right it's meant to be stained, not painted but it's the popular thing to do. Your telling people things that aren't true.. that's why you only did one side.. I do 2 coats of shellac(sanding in between coats)which is a solvent primer and I get the same results. So tired of people like you just making me donkey videos in order for content...it's pathetic

[@nicholassinclair4589]

@@nothingsimpostleble1593 can I get advice from you? I have a small kitchen: home remodel. Customers want to paint over some clear coat finish on doors, jambs, and cabinets. Wood grain is a problem. Im super weary of saying yes. I do carpentry. Im no painter. Some videos make it seem a little too easy. Im skeptical. Any advice? It’s maybe 15 cabinet door faces. Blah blah. I’m doing trim and flooring, but that’s ok. Painting clear finish is not my jam

[@nothingsimpostleble1593]

@@nicholassinclair4589 you don't have to sand the clear coat completely off but you can't just paint over it, it needs to be primer with pigmented shellac or an oil based primer.. I'm telling you from first hand experience you don't need to sand the clear coat off but it's needs to be primed(a latex primer will not suffice) just Scuff the doors up with 220 and the styluses(skeletons of cabinets) and use pigmented shellac... it's a very combustible solvent(keep the work area well ventilated and no open flame sources) but it's the tried and true way... As with the grain, you have to set customer expectations..

[@nothingsimpostleble1593]

@@nicholassinclair4589 you can't just paint over clear coat you will have potential for bonding issues the right way is to use an oil-based primer or pigmented shellac

[@MLSobers]

And is there an alternative for the Sherman Williams vinyl primer sealer?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I would suggest checking with your local paint provider for options. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@Jesus-eb8yk]

What product do you recommend to fill all grooves..spackle?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...it is shown in the description, Sherwin William Shrink Free Spackling. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@ucangetablackjack]

Mine unfortunately needs two coats of wood grain filler because it still shows through even after priming and two coats of paint. Could I just sand after fist coat of filler and then immediately fill again or would I need to prime and then fill and then prime again before paint?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

You can apply a second coat of filler after the first coat if more is needed without priming in between. Thanks, Wes