Project Sariel: Scratch-built ITX artpiece

[@MechnoSferatu]

As always, a great looking case! It was a bit petty that you went as far as you did to shame a company that didn’t send you free stuff. I didn’t catch any notification that this was a sponsored video, for that matter.

[@NotFromConcentrate]

Are you talking about Scythe? Jerry and I are friends so it was just a joke. We have a running gag on the channel where Jerry and I tease each other. I am horrified to think that people would interpret me as shaming a company. I don't even criticize competitors or other products because I think it is tacky. I hope this makes sense. Peace.

[@b6s4shelter]

I started watching this and I'm like, I've seen this before, but still watched in awe!

[@NotFromConcentrate]

aww thank you

[@Q5Grafx]

you need a fiber laser to cut metal properly. you can also polish and anneal the metal for different finishes and logo work. problem is your pretty much limited to a 7" by 7" cut before intricate rigging is needed. as for purpleheart theres no problems with it on a cnc, it actually cuts beautifully with minimal cleanup. i use it for making knife scales and with a n 1/8" roundover bit i have almost no sanding.

[@uierr0r181]

The 24 pin cable is so cute :')

[@MosquitoMade]

Somewhere between tung oil and poly, one of y favorite finishes for things like tool handles, etc is either Danish Oil (which is a blend of stuff, and has some type of varnish in it that actually cures), or shellac. I'll apply both with sand paper (400 grit), and I LOVE the feel of it. It's super soft to the touch, with out the film feeling

[@NotFromConcentrate]

Thanks for the tip! You are the wood master :)

[@MosquitoMade]

@@NotFromConcentrate I once used Mahoney's Walnut Oil (my go-to for food safe/bowl finishes) and did the same technique of applying it, but I went from 400 up to 2000 grit, just to see what it would be like. It was nuts, probably one of the best feeling bowl I've ever experienced, but took FOREVER lol

[@bahman_]

this is how making a custom pc , a true DIY , i just pause video because this pc is F#$king IMMERSIVE

[@NotFromConcentrate]

:D

[@anno5936]

thx for bumping this up... missed the original release and it's an absolute beauty!

[@jseen9568]

Try putting the purple heart in the oven at like 300-350 degrees for 45-60 minutes. It'll turn really deep purple. plus it will sustain the color a lot longer compared to anything else.

[@GoetheNorris]

Celsius or Fahrenheit?

[@jseen9568]

@@GoetheNorris Freedom units (fahrenheit)

[@300-blkout]

"I wanted to order cable combs, but it would take too long so I made my own" Lol

[@electricjamie]

I'm an electrician that's putting together a computer for CAD/CAM use, specifically a hobby cnc (Onefinity Journeyman), this is very inspiring. Very nice work.

[@Q5Grafx]

let me know if you need any info. i built two for control pcs and a monster for my design workstation. hint as a bare minimum you want 32 gb ram. even 16 gb can get issues with a faster running machine. you never want to hit cache when running code. i run quadro 4000 cards for the laser cnc and the wood cnc because they are infallible. another tip do not get cheap chinese controller boards. i have the cheap boards on my 3018 which i use for laser work and i have gone through 4 of the boards so far over 2 years. for my big cnc 36" x 56" i went to Corvetteguy50 on youtube or e-dealers direct on ebay for my controls. Vince set me up with a Gecko G540 system with Ethernet smooth stepper and a 3hp spindle. hes US based and replaces parts fast (i had a defective VFD) he got the replacement to me the next day. I have been using that for a year now with no issues and have done things with it i could only dream of an the smaller machine. on my control pcs i run asus sabertooth 990fx MB with fx 8350 8 core chips and 32 gb. its a solid setup. for the design machine i went with an Asus proart x570 with an amd ryzen 9 5950x cpu and 128 gb of ram with 4 tb ssd storage and 20tb hdd storage. im still running an older gtx 1080ti in it but it has never let me down and is still a beast of a card. now we'll get into money 3018 after mod fixes $1000 needed more powerful motors and spindle and a replacement to the aweful z axis. 9014 machine $5000 $1000 for the frame with all axis $1000 for shipping and $3000 for controls a table to mount the cnc on and all accessories. $400 each for the control pcs $2500 for the design pc. DO NOT MAKE THE MISTAKE OF TRYING TO USE 32 BIT PC. youre limited to 4 gb ram and the parallel port and you wont have a good time with it. I also use win 7 pro 64 bit for the control pcs and win 10 pro for the design pc. i found the 990fx and fx 8350 have some issues with win 10. Good Luck with your project.

[@Go.el_Hadam]

HD Plex power supplies make it possible to make such beautiful builds like this. What a gorgeous build.

[@marekwabnic370]

Idea, execution, details - just WOW! Very inspiring to build my own computer case.

[@ChimpyChamp]

I think this channel is great, you have inspired me to make my own mini-cases, as it's something I have always wanted to do, so far, I have a little creality 3d printer from a previous project, an OX CNC from a few years ago that has been gathering dust until now, and now a cheap Co2 laser cutter..I have made my first case and I think it's great. Thanks for the inspiration.

[@tonylarose4842]

Have you ever looked into using Cedar as a wood? There is a bunch fallen on our land and they are absolutely beautiful when split. That same purple on the zebra wood but I'm sure it's a lot less expensive.

[@NotFromConcentrate]

Yup! I love the stuff and am fixing to do some bezels out of it. I don't wanna oil them though because I love the smell too much....but it will warp like crazy if I don't.

[@Q5Grafx]

cedar is too soft and its really messy to mill. it smells nice but due to its moisture content it has a tendancy to warp unless stabilized and then you lose the only redeeming factor with cedar.

[@pascalvorbach6829]

Wow what a beautiful project....

[@m.q.x]

Functional Art is the best!

[@Incognito-gh5qi]

that is a thing of great and tremendous beauty

[@jdlarrimo]

I'm happy to see the project completed after seeing the process. It's all coming together! Edit: Whoops, thought this was the case that you designed on the livestreams. My bad! Stil excited to see it, though! :D

[@NotFromConcentrate]

They are delayed in releasing that video, they said May sometime. I'm REALLY happy with how it turned out so stay tuned!

[@NPC_YouTube]

serious shoutout to the guy who sleeved all those cables. h5 m8!

[@Squinoogle]

Ah, I thought I'd seen this before :-D No less impressive the 2nd time around!

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

Sooo, laser cutting stainless. Use Nitrogen. Lots of nitrogen at high pressure. I realize I'm super late to this but I've been running lasers for most of 2 decades so I felt compelled to add my 2 cents. To get it going you want to set up a cut program with a circle in the middle of a square, one corner of the square at a sharp 90*, the other 3 corners in different radius. This allows you to check a bunch of things at once. Size the square to something that is easy to measure, 1" or 2cm or whatever, check it with good calipers, if it's out, adjust your offset or cut compensation. Call this "test cut" or whatever, be prepared to cut a LOT of these. Cut some whenever you're trying a new material or thickness you have never tried or if for some reason your machine doesn't want to cut something you know how to work with. Look at the corners for nice clean arcs, make sure the part is not skewed sideways and the burn lines are straight and not sweeping back from the direction of cut (too fast) or skewed inwards at the bottom (usually too slow or too much power for combustible material like wood or plastic), make sure the top and bottom edges are both sharp and clean (speed related, top gets burned up going too slow, bottom gets gross going too fast). Once you learn how to read the square and get used to seeing good results you'll be able to know at a glance whether it'll be good or bad before you cut into that big, pristine chunk of brand new material. For stainless, either look at the documentation provided with the laser or take a guess at speed. Start at half the speed of carbon steel if you know that and try cutting the test square, it'll either cut or it won't. Too slow or not enough nitrogen will leave hard, sharp jaggedy slag at the bottom. Too fast will cut partially or not at all, lots of sparking at the top and stinking of ozone. Once you are cutting but getting the sharp slag keep bumping your speed up 5-10% at a time till you lose the cut, then you can either add more nitrogen pressure and/or volume (bigger diameter nozzle) or slow it down 5-10%. You can laser cut stainless using oxygen but it requires way more power, or way way slower feeds and it leaves gross carbonized slag on the bottom that's kind of a pain in the butt to clean.

[@NotFromConcentrate]

This is amazing info. I didn't even know I could substitute oxygen for nitrogen! I would absolutely LOVE IT if you could send me an email or ping me on Discord sometime so we can connect and I could pick your brain. I know your time is valuable. THANK YOU!

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

@@NotFromConcentrate sure, I'll do that. Sharing a little knowledge is payback for the entertainment and information your videos provide.

[@id104335409]

This little guy is more complicated to build than a full PC tower.

[@michaelkelly7379]

That's the point, ya goose.

[@karl_käse2610]

At work we use high preassure nitrogen (15bar) to lasecut stainless steel, so it wont melt into slack on the underside of the cut, but instead just blow out the molten metal without burning it.

[@NotFromConcentrate]

Thanks! I'm not sure my laser is powerful enough to cut with just nitrogen but I'll look into it. I could raise the pressure of the oxygen. It seemed to make a bigger mess but I didn't go to 15.

[@gerbaniumgreen9624]

Love the build, I wish I could have it lol...

[@GoetheNorris]

Eye contact is strong in this one

[@YanalGish]

dude are those Mirror shades ?? or for ur welding work?? if they are shades i kinda wana know what brand they are ^_^

[@NotFromConcentrate]

I dunno some safety goggles from a safety website. They weren't cheap. Safety.

[@gabrielb238]

Ngl, I almost didn’t click on the video because of the nfc tag since I’m sick of that subject. But- I love the channel name and content. Just thought I would give a heads up!

[@zuluflor4]

hi, maybe I could help with the laser-cut. Can I get more information? whats the thicknes of the metal you want to cut? whats the max. wattage the laser can produce? whats the noozle diameter, gas type, focus point, lens diameter?

[@NotFromConcentrate]

Hello. I would love to cut low carbon steel 1mm to 1.2mm thick. I have a 150w Co2 RECI tube. It has oxygen assist. Lens diameter is 20mm and the focus point is automated. If you want to email me support@nfc-systems I would love to give you the documentation. Thanks I REALLY appreciate your willingness to lend a hand!

[@zuluflor4]

@@NotFromConcentrate e-mail dosnt work for me... ? I dont know if it helps, but here are some data for lasercuting from my workplace. The laser, from the company i work in, is a 5000W CO² Laser. -1.0 mm Stainless ; 3000W ; 10000 Hz ; 10m/min ; Noozle 1.4mm ; N² 15 bar -1.0mm Stainless ; 500W ; 2000 Hz ; 1m/min ; Noozle 1.4mm ; N² 12 bar -1.0mm Stainless ; 5000W ; 20000 Hz ; 11.5m/min ; Noozle 1.4mm ; N² 14 bar -1.0mm Stainless ; 750W ; 2000 Hz ; 2.8m/min ; Noozle 1.7mm ; Air 5bar -1.5mm Stainless ; 750W ; 2000 Hz ; 1.9m/min ; Noozle 2.3mm ; Air 5bar -1.0mm low carbon steel ; 1200W ; 20000 Hz ; 8.2m/min ; Noozle 0.8mm ; O² 4 bar -1.0mm low carbon steel ; 300W ; 500 Hz ; 0.6m/min ; Noozle 0.8mm ; O² 4.5 bar could not find data sheets with less wattage. for all data sheets the space between noozle and workpiece is 0.7mm if you cut a square and only one straigt side has a bur, its mostly because the laser is not center´d in the noozle.

[@joostwestra]

Did you forget to list this video?

[@NotFromConcentrate]

It's a special video just for those who care enough to look for it on my channel. :)

[@D-One]

So that wood is harder to machine than steel? wow

[@segfault-berlin]

what power brick do you use for this machine? that's a lot of computer to run off a 20V brick, I have a much lesser GPU and keep tripping the OCP

[@NotFromConcentrate]

For this I used the LA330PM190 or the LA330PM111. Dell bricks are NOT created equal, which is well documented in our SFF community. The Dell DA330PM160, for example, has the same specs and looks identical on the outside, but is too weak to power something like this and will trip. This is why you often find this model on Amazon or eBay, but the one from Dell (LA330PM190) is 100 dollars more. I hope this helps! Finally, all of my systems are rigorously tested and tuned to make sure it won't trip during the customers intended use. Great question!

[@segfault-berlin]

@@NotFromConcentrate Thanks for the info I use a Dell 220W brick with a HD_PLEX 200W converter, I have an R9 3900X and a WX4100, its pretty stable but can still trip if I put the wrong workload combination on the CPU and GPU, even with the CPU undervolted and redialed for 4.0GHz no turbo

[@arkratos3727]

What laser do you use?

[@NotFromConcentrate]

its a custom 150w laser specced out by Bodor.

[@drink_spaghetti]

I'm so confused, why is it listed 10 minutes ago with year old comments

[@NotFromConcentrate]

Yeah it is confusing--it was an unlisted video, and the link was to it embedded in the description of another video. So a few people watched it when it originally released...but not alot...so I decided to make it public on my channel. Peace

[@Noodle_F]

23K entries yet only 491 views. That's insane! You should include a subscribe and like option to your youtube channel to the gleam link.

[@NotFromConcentrate]

Well it increases my chances of buying it back from someone selling it on eBay LOL

[@Noodle_F]

@@NotFromConcentrate Then kindly give it to me. Heh. Seriously though, I would hold onto it for dear life. I've always loved your work. Fantastic job on the build, it's like nothing else.

[@kendoug5722]

Are you selling these?

[@NotFromConcentrate]

I'm not selling them off the shelf, but you could commission one. They are expensive though as it takes over a hundred hours to craft, although I could make the individual parts for you to polish/finish and assemble. Up to you--google my email if you are interested. Thanks for watching!

[@sygnusadun4832]

Lil disappointed that the vid telling us about how to win it and showing off the cool new rig is for a competition that has already wrapped...

[@NotFromConcentrate]

The good news is I am doing a fourth one that premieres next month so if you like my work you can enter to win that one