Promaster Van Build 2500 159WB - DIY- 12V Power Install - Part 32

[@rafaelmora4676]

Me encantan todos tus trabajos sos muy detallistas para las cosas que haces saludos desde San José Costa Rica pura vida tu eres mi mentor gracias 🙂

[@jeffersonzanettedossantos3478]

Também gosto muito do teu trabalho. Parabéns! Içara, SC - Brasil.

[@TOTALLYRELAXED]

Hi Al! Good to see you back! I love watching DIY videos! I’m not sure I’d trust myself doing what YOU are doing in this video though! Can’t wait until the next segment! Stay safe! ~Jim~

[@OregonBatman]

Thanks Jim! I am confident YOU can do this! Thanks for hanging in there!

[@TOTALLYRELAXED]

@@OregonBatman> I probably could I guess if my settlement would ever finalize so I can buy a Promaster! Keep the great videos coming…a fan in need! LOL!

[@Slippityslop]

This is so helpful to see how you installed it step by step. Really appreciate it and good work! I'm building out a Chevy Astro van right now and have been using your build videos as inspiration. You have an amazing attention to detail that I'm trying to emulate in my build.

[@OregonBatman]

Thnak you for checking it out! Best of luck on your build, it will turn out great! Happy travels!

[@mowguy1]

Nice and tidy electrical work.

[@OregonBatman]

Thanks Randy! Having issue with inverter... you'll see why in next video :(

[@CasitaViews]

Greetings from metro Detroit, doing my van build also , awesome tips thank you

[@OregonBatman]

Thank you Casita!

[@aspendell209]

Nice. You answered all of my questions except one... I'm assuming that you will be connecting your DC-DC charger directly to the starting battery, since 50 amps is too much for the accessory circuit. So, unless the charger can be set to only turn on above 13.0 v and turn off below that voltage on the input, you will need a switch of some kind to turn off the charger when the vehicle isn't running. Otherwise the charger will drain your starting battery to something like 11.0 v every time its left with the engine off. Which won't likely be enough to start the van reliably. Great progress!

[@OregonBatman]

Thanks Aspendell! Correct, will be connecting directly to battery at some point and will use an accessory switch to power on and off the unit when ignition is off. Need to check compatability of the charger to batteries... already have an issue with Renogy inverter :(

[@edm7356]

I think the DC to DC charger senses the gen/alt. is running before it starts to protect the starter battery.

[@OregonBatman]

@@edm7356 When I get ready to install the charger, I'll also install an in-line fuse from battery to wire "just in case". Appreciate the comment!

[@aspendell209]

@@OregonBatman I was wondering about that. The Renogy design is over 40 years old now. And originally ferric-oxide batteries didn't exist yet. So I was wondering if they had upgrades for the new cell chemistry voltages.

[@edm7356]

@@OregonBatman Sorry my other comment was directed at Aspendell. Yes a 60 amp fuse from battery and 50 amp after DC to DC charger. The 60 amp fuse may already be installed at your battery in your Dodge, which is the best place for the fuse going to the charger to protect that wire as I'm sure you know. Thanks for the great videos.

[@dbucka]

Awesome work as always. But your chiropractor must be working overtime after all your twisting and crouching to get in and out of there! Doesn’t your bunk come out easy enough to make it easier to get at the power system?

[@OregonBatman]

LOL!! I could remove the matress and the platform, but then all of that would get in the way somewhere else! :) Surprised I can still bens around everything! HaHa!

[@stuartkorte1642]

Nice progress. On light switches are you going source-light-switch or source-switch-light? just wondering how you got lights and no switches installed.

[@OregonBatman]

Temporarily connected all lights to fuse block and using battery cut-off switch to turn everything off. Next project is to add a switch panel in galley area for source-switch-light. Thanks for checking it out!

[@FadedNimbus]

Will these batteries be sufficient for a ac unit and to game off of? I’m a avid gamer and I don’t want to get a max air fan because I want a ac unit that can both cool off and heat up my Promaster 2500

[@OregonBatman]

Depending on the size of the AC, it could run it for a while. I have an Ecoflow Wave2 that I can use, but it will only last 4-5 hours, after that... batteries need charged. You will definitely want some sort of ventilation in your van, if not for anything else but to keep condensation out

[@FadedNimbus]

@@OregonBatman would 1600ah be sufficient for say a Dometic RTX 2000?

[@OregonBatman]

This is what I found: Dometic claims that the RTX2000 draws 19 amps running in “Eco” mode. Estimates claim that every 5,000 BTUs of energy requires 30 Ah/hour of power for each hour of operation. This equates to one lithium-ion 12V/100Ah battery for every 3 hours of use or 2 hours for a standard 12V/100Ah lead-acid battery. So 1600ah should run this unit on Eco mode for approx 53 hours

[@FadedNimbus]

@@OregonBatman thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!

[@kennethhudson8013]

As much as that system cost a solar generator would be better idk. Lest space, weight and hassle

[@OregonBatman]

I thought about that... I ended up with 6000w of battery power, not sure I could find a solar generator for the same low cost