Proper Care & Storage: Collectible Firearms & Holsters

In this video, we show you how to properly care for and store your collectible firearms and holsters. A little oil and some protective plastic go a long way. But it's really all about climate control - you don't environment that is too humid or too dry. Tom also gives us some helpful tips on how to organize the guns in your safe to easily find what you're looking for.
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[@jamescampbell4334]

BrakeFree makes a product called Collectors Oil. Great stuff. Protects guns for years, in a "ready to shoot" condition. Temp and humidity in your safe are critical too. My safes are kept at around 85 deg F, that's 15 degs over home temp. An oversized goldenrod is heat source, over double the size recommended for the safe size. Humidity is maintained at or below 30% rel, around half the home level. Rechargeable dessicate canasters maintain humidity level.

[@jacktheaviator4938]

I bought a cheap humidity monitor with an alarm for my safe, and discovered that the cannisters weren't doing the job for my particular location (in a basement on a waterfront property, very high humidity). So I upgraded to a high efficiency dehumidifier.

[@gunfisher4661]

I always make sure to swab the bore with oil also for short or long term.

[@mikeoscarone]

My buddy just bought a rare 1914 Luger and rig and he asked my advise about storing it …. Now I have the answers !! Thanks Tom

[@imadequate3376]

is it a DMW? Those sell for 10,000$ at auction.

[@MysteriousMarsupial]

Humidity control is important too. I use goldenrod type de-humidifiers plugged into a wifi humidity control switch (Inkbird Pro IHC-200) set to desired parameters. Maintains a perfect 52% humidity level year round in my safes.

[@WAFFENAMT1]

Many WW2 pistols I have come across had been sitting in their leather holster for probably 80 years, Yes it can pit the surface

[@Nattleby]

It takes a really long time. My father had a blued old model .357 Ruger Blackhawk in its holster for 40 years in a heavy duty cardboard container in the attic. When we finally took it out there was no rust anywhere. In my own personal experience, I have an unissued Makarov that I keep in the holster. I just wipe it down and lightly oil it about every six months. The oil builds up a protective film inside the holster that prevents the tannic acids and moisture from contacting the metal. Legacy Collectables is only a few miles away from where I live.

[@zivendine]

I’ve had good results getting deep inside holsters buy pouring in mineral oil. Pour it out, stuff rags inside then after 1-2 hours remove the rags bringing out any crud that attached to the rags. I hang the holster outside and upside down in the sunlight. Between gravity, the leather absorbing and my Phoenix Az sunlight most of the excess mineral oil will be gone. I’ve removed green, white and the blue mold that grows around rivets from the interior of several US GI holsters and haven’t seen the mold return over a period of 20+ years.

[@Nattleby]

That’s not mold. It’s called verdigris. It’s a chemical reaction between metal (particularly brass) and the tannic acids in the leather.

[@johndavidwolf4239]

@@Nattleby : I agree, more specifically it is the reaction with the copper that is in the brass, and will also occurs around copper rivets.

[@hpenaranda01]

This video should be more viewed for more gun people. I had almost 30 years in guns, and I learnt a couple of tricks from this video. Good job!

[@boykinlp]

Blackrock Leather & Rich is a fantastic product for leather holsters. Kinda funny, but I have always used a hair dryer in my holster treatment too. I use it after applying the Blackrock to heat the leather. I think it absorbs the product better when heated. I didn't realize I was also killing any mold spores at the same time. I think the hair dryer, heating the leather, also lets the Blackrock flow better to get under snaps or rivets, to help control verdigris.

[@alanbud5181]

Thanks for the tip on Leather&rich, and for the hairdryer tip.

[@cleondubois1270]

Good information & "It's a wonderful day in the neighborhood".

[@pmg8504]

Hey Tom, cut a little two-inch wide piece of cardboard & slip it in the belt loop of the holsters so they don't get squashed!

[@Teleman01]

I have about 6 nice WWI pistols. I just store them "open air" on stands in my safe. It is humidity controlled. I was told this is a good option.

[@thomaswhiteman4261]

Sounds good

[@davidschaadt3460]

I've been doing that for decades with no rust .With the goldenrods .

[@davidschaadt3460]

I've been doing that for decades with no rust .With the goldenrods .

[@JulianoCashless]

Thank you, Tom! Great video!

[@billm23456]

To eradicate mold or mildew dampen a paper towel with Listerine, and wipe all visible spots. It is the thymol that does the trick, and doesn't damage the leather.

[@jacktheaviator4938]

I 3d printed "prop" copies of pistols for which i have holsters. I use them to keep the holsters in shape without worrying about the finish of the pistols. I store them in plastic cases wrapped in cotton with a dehumidifier running in the safe. Please don't use heat to remove mold on leather, you are aging the leather every second you heat it. If you wipe them down with mineral oil, it will kill the mold without damaging the leather. The reason mold can grow is because the leather is traditionally treated with animal fat and wax, both of which are food for the mold. But mineral oil acts as a poison to the mold and preseves the leather.

[@erics1782]

Lot's of great tips! Thx Tom!

[@scottthompson5855]

Boxes. Duh. Didn’t think of that. Thanks. Like a prophylactic. Pure gold. Laughed out loud. Oopsy was a close second...

[@alexbursa]

As always good info. Thanks Tom!

[@shintokatana17]

9:20 Could be the oil that dissolves the wrapping.

[@Flatline74]

I love cleaning the guns and grips or stocks in Ballistol. That Ballistol is awesome for the wood. It says leather as well but I am not willing to try that yet.

[@c6quad3]

I used it on some ww2 era leather holsters and slings. Worked good from what I can tell. It did darken the leather but I'm ok with that. I'd rather see it darken instead of drying out and cracking.

[@charliea3723]

Your video is gold

[@devinj.3657]

Thanks! I learned a lot and enjoyed this video!

[@ArtZasadny]

Thanks!

[@imthatguy1878]

I worry about keeping my oldies nice, I have nothing stored in holsters and try to not let them bang against each other

[@MGB-learning]

Great video!

[@jerryjohnsonii4181]

Thanks for the knowledge !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@georgetreepwood1119]

I wax the interior wood with bees wax - even barrel channels on rifles - and the back of pistol gripsI bet some of those luxury boot repair places like Trenton and Heath have a trick for those holsters with cracks and such...

[@MikeMo900]

Great information! Thank you 🙏

[@jensenwilliam5434]

Thank you!!!

[@jphilb]

Superb video. Don’t know how many times I have gone to look at someone’s relatives guns only to find tragically rusted pieces.

[@ahmet42selim65]

This is the video i wanted

[@phifrank4020]

i like to see what you do... i think you do it with passion👍

[@christopherwilson4866]

Not first to make a comment... but 30th to give a positive thumbs up! Great suggestions.

[@grayharker6271]

That dry holster can be wiped with mineral spirits to bring back a little suppleness. Then wipe with saddle soap.

[@geoffreycotter]

you have one of the best firearms channels on you tube.i have some walther firearms and they are my babies. wipe them down every two months even though we live in the south west.thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@ItchyPilauBoto]

Imagine the guy who oven roasted his holster, watching you do it with a blow dryer.. lol

[@stang3787]

I had a fellow collector put his WWI Luger holster in a microwave for some stupid reason. Ruined it.

[@Mibit911]

I live in Virginia and didn't realize you guys were only 4 hours away I'd love to come up some time and do a visit

[@oliverdelaenfield2]

Haha yup I worked at two different gun stores and any pistol that didn't have a box ended up in a flat rate shipping box. We'd take turns picking them up so the post office didn't catch on 😂

[@toddbraddock236]

I love your video's and have bought a few guns from you over the years. I suggest a thorough cleaning of the guns, and a process of cleaning where you remove the corrosive salts used in German WW2 ammo, once thoroghly cleaned, the gun needs to be oiled. I use amsoil gun oil, it has a superior corrosion adative package as well as synthetic oil properties which out last reg gun oils by years. Lastly I remove the magazine which, which is cleaned seperatly and stored seperatly from the gun, the reason I do this as it is extremly hard to remove the salts from inside the magazine even if you completely disassembly and clean it. I also remove the bake light grips, and clean with a toohbrush and dawn dish detergent, you would not believe the amount of nasty crud this removes. The gun gets a light coat of oil and stored in a "zerust" corrosive ziplock bag, this bag has a metal protectant that seals out moisture, and a metal protectant that protects metal, including bare metal. Follow this process and store your gun for up to 5 years with no rust at all.

[@jimmyKwrx]

Thank you for this video. Just picked up my first collector gun from you guys a bit ago and I wasn’t sure if I should treat it differently than my other guns. I plan on keeping it on display, a lot of people recommended renaissance wax. Do any of you guys have experience with that product?

[@billb89]

Ballistol Is a fantastic CLP.

[@Chiller01]

It’s interesting no one seems to mention humidity when storing old firearms. I collect vintage guitars as well and regulating humidity is a big deal. Though overly humidified guitars can warp and the organic hide glue used in the past can weaken the most common problem is cracking from overly dry guitars in homes heated with forced air and closed up for the winter. I’m sure the humidity could affect wooden stocks but I would think corrosion would accelerate in hot humid conditions. I’ve taken to keeping my guns in the same room as my guitars kept at 40% relative humidity and a more or less constant 68 to 72 degrees F.

[@jimrutherford2773]

I use Pecards leather conditioner. Museums use it. I've also heard the best thing to do is put nothing on the leather to allow the leather to breathe.

[@56Spookdog]

Leather shops and leather goods people use Oxalic Acid for mold on leather.

[@marktwo3160]

How about using wax paper instead of the Glad Wrap? I have done it with surplus mags and it seems to work well. I have not tried it on any of my firearms yet.

[@alanbud5181]

I use pecard, good stuff. I just checked, and I need another can, almost out 😂

[@Strawhalo]

Cool

[@brianquinn1854]

I have 4 of my Dad’s WWII bring back pistols, in the holsters. Walther P38, Walther PP 7.65, Walther P-38 and a Radom Vis 35. Dad always kept the pistols stored in the holsters, with the pistols wrapped in silk parachute cloth that he got on the battle field. The parachute cloth is a little oily, and it seems to keep the pistols from any damage. The pistols are in pristine condition, with matching serial numbers. Should i change to your Saran Wrap method? Dad was in Patton’s 3rd Army, 14th Armored Division, as an 18 year old kid, and fought through the battle of the bulge

[@rick-kx7gy]

I would recommend cleaning old leather with saddle soap before using treatments . Otherwise you you are allowing dirt and grime to absorb into the leather with the treatment . I believe Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP is the best leather treatment out there . As for steel I have found that Eezox is far superior to oil . It resists rust much better than oil . And serves as a dry lubricant . Any oils and grease have to be removed before treating steel with it . Properly treated it's dry to the touch . More importantly it doesn't migrate and soak into wood thus damaging it . My 2 cents .

[@grayharker6271]

Leather stow with saddle soap and brown paper.

[@MyWillypilly]

This is very good. I'd imagine a hot , sunny day on a holster would work pretty good. Thoughts?

[@hendrikenting8372]

Would there be oil(s) that are harmful somehow for the wooden handles or any part of old guns? Just wondering

[@mikedemaria3695]

What do you do about verdigris?

[@MrNedsaabdickerson]

Does neetsfoot oil work on p38/p1 holsters?

[@loftonharris5632]

Tom, I recently purchased a mid-50s PP that was a former German railway gun. It was in sad shape with some pitting and places where the bluing was worn through (possibly with the help of steel wool). I debated having the gun re-blued but a couple of different gunsmiths advised against this saying the value of the gun would be diminished by re-bluing. The gun functions beautifully but looks pathetic. Maybe you could make a video about ways to restore the appearance of a gun without destroying its value. In my case I used Vans instant gun blue to touch up the “raw” spots. The results were good. Doesn’t look new but can pass in public without creating dismay. Not sure if I did the right thing and would like your opinion about acceptable repairs to a poorly maintained gun of moderate value.

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

You can't blue over pits and expect collectors to believe it's original. Collectors like honest guns more than dishonest guns. Turnbull Restoration Company and Vulcan Gun Refinishing (Canada) are two of the best businesses I know of that do a good job of refinishing guns but they're cost prohibitive. As in I'd rather buy your gun for what it's worth in the condition it's in now than to pay you what you got in it after it's refinished.

[@FeldwebelWolfenstool]

I wonder if food-grade silicon would be useful anywhere? ...cheap, when bought at your local scuba divers' shop...

[@mandycole21]

Great video and info Also what do you think about just using straight WD-40 on guns and minke oil like in a shoe polish tin for the leather...... that's all I've ever used and seems to have work just fine for me for about the last 20yrs but it might just be that it works well in the climate that I'm in around the northeastern U.S....... any thoughts if it's just the climate or do you think those things would work well anywhere???

[@thomaswhiteman4261]

Sounds like that works just fine. !

[@davidschaadt3460]

I've done that for years with nice results .I don't believe the people who say it's no good .

[@koolaidria4801]

WD40 is horrible for guns. I’d use ballistol

[@jimrutherford2773]

Are there BPA, acids, or other chemicals that leach off the plastic wrap onto the metal or leather?

[@LegacyCollectibles]

So far we have never had a problem, but I do re-wrap them every year, so not sure if it would be a problem if they sat for 5 -10 years

[@HippieDave351]

I buy the silicone impregnated rifle gun socks. I have my wife make four pistol socks out of one. My guns are well cleaned, oiled and socked up in my safe, they sit on their backs, side by side.... Never touching metal to metal. I use gun stock wax on wood grips to help keep them free of dirt and water intrusion. By the way,,,, I shoot every gun in my collection, even the WWII and post civil war stuff.... I make all my own bullets with light rounds and mild powder ,,,, usually trail boss, its slow burning and easy on old metal.... I just cant see collecting guns and not enjoying them...

[@davidschaadt3460]

I buy those and they work great no rust and it keeps from banging the gus together when you get them out .

[@davidschaadt3460]

I buy those and they work great no rust and it keeps from banging the gus together when you get them out .

[@williamkaylor1191]

Gentlemen, would Ballistol work for long term storage? It does not get gummy, and is also good for leather and wood. Asking the experts here, my fellow fans of Legacy Collectibles

[@ikwer111]

Ballistol works great. Have been using it for over forty years now on both metal and leather.

[@alanbud5181]

Ok, now if you have a leather holster with a brass snap, how do you keep the verdigris from forming on the brass snap ball?? I have my grandfathers 1911 from WW1 Volt made in 1918. i dont keep it in the holster and I don’t keep the holster closed because of the green verdigris that forms around the brass snap.

[@alanbud5181]

That Colt not Bolt😂😂

[@johndeere1951a]

#1 enemy of metal ? Humidity/moisture. Rather than plastic wrap. Oil soaked paper, moisture absorbing paper. That's how German car makers wrap new parts for no corrosion, long shelf storage. Pistol wrapped in wax paper before holster insertion for storage. Moisture trapped in leather is not friendly to metal. !!! Dehumidifier !!! it's a good thang 🍺👍✌️🇺🇲

[@krandom354]

I need some more rigatoni… 😔

[@larspederbjorendalhollaend4875]

Dear Sir. How were those beautiful holsters fabricated. Why did the Germans not use webbing as the Britisk? Leather was in wartime very valuable!

[@ekimskaew5304]

Does leather attract leather also?

[@pcmacd]

There a plastic food wraps (most common), and there all natural fiber food wraps. They all kinda look the same. Read the label - I'd bet the ones that went all nasty were cellulose based.

[@barryrickert6544]

Ballistol, Ballistol, Ballistol, Ballistol. Nothing else is needed.

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

I dont' know how I feel about cellophane... I kind of prefer cotton. BreakFree is good. Don't use WD40. It doesn't work. You can find tests people have done on steel plates left out in the weather coated in different oils. You got to be careful though, some oils may dull color case hardened parts over time. Be careful of what grips you remove. If they're the brown plastic grips on Star Model B's they wont go back on. They shrink. If you see elongated screw holes, that's a tell. You can back the screws out and slip an oily index card between the frame and grip to lubricate them. Horn grips can be cleaned with ethanol and then soaked in mineral oil over night to re-moisturize them. This keeps them from shrinking, warping, and cracking. Stag grips should have already been soaked in shellac which keeps them stable. *Leather* Avoid neatsfoot oil and silicone based leather treatments. Neatsfoot oil rots leather and certain threads. Silicone will over soften leather. I personally prefer a Beeswax/Carnauba wax based treatment but Renaissance Wax would probably be better than that. There's also lanolin which I haven't read much on. Mold can grow on leather when it's put away moist. I leave leather out a day or two after conditioning. There's also a thing called Red Rot to watch out for. High heat and humidity.

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

The Blackrock Leather 'n' Rich MSDS contains the following: Carnauba Wax 6.96% Mineral Oil 12.8-16% Ethylene Glycol 11.6% Fatty Acids 6.4-9.6% Water 45.38% Hydrogentated tallow alkyl 4.06% Butoxyethanol 2- 2.24-3.2% Propanol 2 1.6-3.2% Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl)

[@Nattleby]

I have seen red rot. My Great grandfather’s WW1 gas mask rig was up in the attic for 100 years. When we found it and picked it up, the leather was all red and the whole thing, canvas bag included, just crumbled apart.

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

@@Nattleby That's a shame...

[@jacobquigley6309]

Lederbalsam...its what I use on old leather...fantastic stuff!

[@chaselampe13]

How about M-Pro 7 lpx

[@StephonCDavis]

My Dad and me use to get pantyhose and soak them on oil and then put our luger and p38 in them then put them in a gun case same with our rifles

[@koolaidria4801]

How often do you treat the leather?

[@thomaswhiteman4261]

only about twice a year.

[@VR-ym8ys]

It takes a lot of work to oil up your rag just right. Once you got it right, you will keep it forever.

[@flatmoon6359]

One issue with some card and paper is that it's bleached. Not good on leather.

[@grayharker6271]

Hoppies

[@gunslinger135]

I use leather n rich on my hard worn work boots the leather is holding up great the rubber soles not so much😁

[@grayharker6271]

I would NEVER wrap a weapon in plastic! Unless I was going ashore with it before I used it. No matter what you do there is always moisture in there. Parchment or wax paper is better.

[@grumpyoldfart1945]

Thanks, Tom for another great video. One question: on leather holsters, what do you suggest about removing and preventing the green crud (mildew?) that forms around brass rivets and flap buttons as on 1911 holsters? Thanks again.

[@thomaswhiteman4261]

I haven't found anything except cleaning it from time to time and not let it build up

[@pmg8504]

A touch of white spirits on a soft toothbrush works wonders on the green verdigris that forms on the brass fittings!

[@grumpyoldfart1945]

@@pmg8504 Thanks, but what are “white spirits?”

[@pmg8504]

@@grumpyoldfart1945, It's a dry cleaning fluid, your local hardware store should have it!

[@grumpyoldfart1945]

@@pmg8504 Got it! Many thanks.

[@davidschaadt3460]

Coin collectors don't like some of the plastic sleeves because they put off chemicals that corrode coins .So be careful ,and waxed paper might be a good choice also .

[@bobspistolsandpaydirt8607]

Interesting…… i have never used plastic wrap….

[@Saviour3]

Does that couch need some attention 🤔😏

[@saltyroe3179]

No penatrating oil on wood!

[@Curtislow2]

22:00 Don't tell Mare!

[@nikonmark37814]

Your techniques also works with air guns for those of you who love to shoot and maintain your gear.

[@grayharker6271]

NEVER stow a weapon long term in a leather holster.

[@tk423b]

Do not use vegetable oil.

[@D3fenderfox]

You look like if Vladimir Putin was raised In america, no offence

[@mrfarts5176]

The only thing this guy doesnt like about the nazis is that they lost.

[@bennettguns3809]

Video shows a great lack of knowledge of firearms. Pure nonsense.

[@thomaswhiteman4261]

Not at all helpful