(Pt 2) PowerStroke Power Locks DISASTER!?

So the body wiring harness that goes to the Left Rear Door is FRIED TO A CRISP!!
WHY DID THIS HAPPEN?? Why didn't the fuse blow to prevent this MELTDOWN?
And HOW DO WE FIX IT without replacing the Entire Harness??
Never seen anything like this...
I talk to the owner and he wants at least 3 of 4 locks to work.
Let's break out the electrical tape and go to town trying to restore this MELTED MESS!!
TOPDON Phoenix Plus 2:
www.amazon.com...
AstroAI Digital DC AMP Clamp Meter:
www.amazon.com...
Scotch Super33 7100002398 Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape:
www.amazon.com...
UY CHAN TS101 SOLDERING IRON:
www.amazon.com...
Enjoy!
Ivan

[@Sandmansa]

That is absolutely insane Ivan. I've got a suspicion that we are not getting the full story here. I just can't believe that a 20A fuse was able to hold up against a dead short like that.

[@MattyEngland]

Fake fuses on eBay/Amazon. 5A fuse doesn't blow even with 20A

[@scrappy7571]

@@MattyEngland Or the someone installed a circuit breaker...

[@tuberNunya]

@@MattyEngland Not in the US. These fuses are ubiquitous in the US, they are everywhere, in every glovebox in every car, every hardware store and auto parts store. No reason to oreder them and wait when you have a handful in the car already.

[@MattyEngland]

@@tuberNunya People buy everything online these days....Welcome to 2024.

[@bassthunder819]

.. yes Ivan not getting full scoop…

[@simonparkinson1053]

Theres something else going on here. Even if the customer had put a 30A fuse in, the lock pulse is under 1 second and that could not physically heat up the harness quickly enough to melt. Could they have kept on operating the lock switch inside the truck? Maybe. I know if you do such things on VW group vehicles it sets a fault in the BCM saying "play protection active" and there is a timeout before the locks can be operated again, allowing the actuator motors to cool. Remember the final short to ground was found right near the BCM. I have a feeling that the short is actually present inside the left rear door and isnt a short to ground, its a short to power from something like the seat heating or window circuits. In the rest state, both lock wires are grounded by the relays. Thats maybe how the fuse wasnt blowing initially until the locks were operated and it tried putting B+ on the wire which had melted and shorted to ground near the BCM. I'm amazed the relays haven't been damaged by that fault current!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great theory!

[@chrisjackson9102]

Along the lines of "play protection", that was my first instinct. Kids in the backseat playing with buttons and holding them down. Good on VW for protecting against that. Replacing the kids is cheaper.

[@swallowinn4410]

Hello Ivan. As a DYI person who has repaired more fried wiring than I care to remember. My 2 cents and a guess is that the fuse was jumpped with an wire capable of taking a heavy losd. It worked until it fused the wiri g i to a dead short. Unfortunateky getting a truthful accurate description of the fault history is very difficult. People do not like to admit they may have caused a problem. But hey that is just my opinion and I have been known to be wrong a time or 2. Good repair I hope your customer appreciates the tallent you have and the effort you put in for a satisfactory repair.

[@alexdubinsky6098]

agreed... or a 30+ amp fuse temporarily inserted when the door started playing up...

[@Sandmansa]

I would also have to agree with you. I can't believe that much damage happened through normal means without excessive help.

[@CubasAutomotive]

​@@Sandmansait's great when customers try to "help" lol 😅😂

[@akerlie123]

Even with the fuse that was supposed to be there, the wires are not dimensioned for constant current draw, the fuse is mostly there to catch a complete short.

[@MattyEngland]

That or cheap amazon/eBay fuses. Louis Rossmann did a test where he put 20A through 5A fuses and they still didn't blow.

[@bigchopper14]

Great Job Ivan, you fixed it again, and no parts required. 👍 to me that was a really challenging fault, so glad you showed us the short to ground in the loom. Thanks Ivan 🚗👍

[@jeffjankiewicz5100]

Always a learning experience with your videos Ivan. Even at 67 years old, I enjoy learning. Thanks for that. Much respect for your patience and logical approach.

[@Blitterbug]

Waddaya mean 'even' at 67? That's only 6 years older'n me and I'm no crusty! You make it sound like you're ready for a nursing home or something, no offense mate. You're a spring chicken!

[@Blind-Dave]

A 20A fuse protecting a circuit that in use draws 2A … was the 20A stock ?

[@Blitterbug]

@@Blind-Dave Quite probably not, but I think the total drain with all 4 door motors running was a bit more than 2A. I think Ivan measured around 4.5A, so 10A would have been fine.

[@Land-of-reason]

@@Blind-Davesounds nuts to me. Those wires don’t look man enough for 20A. Wrong fuse?

[@Andy_Hinners]

@@Blind-Dave 20A is what came from the factory.

[@YouAllKnowBob]

No fuse in there when you started. Customer said it was halfway working to begin but was blowing fuses and then quit altogether. I wonder if he put a 30 amp in since it was blowing 20s and then when it all quit working he took that out before he brought it to you. That would explain why the wires melted without blowing the fuse......

[@Law_Abiding_Citizen_ok]

It a shame that you can physically put a 30A fuse in a 20A slot unlike domestic fuse boards🙄

[@YouAllKnowBob]

Years ago, in the good old glass fuse days, there was a series of fuses that all started SFE and each amperage was a different length to make it much harder, and in most cases impossible, to use the wrong fuse as long as you stayed with a SFE fuse.

[@deepthiwijekoon7283]

Your perseverance is amazing.Most other individuals would have given up and recommended a new loom. Your no parts required policy is a example for novice/experienced mechanics to see whether the old parts can be reused. It helps in stopping unnecessary waste and conserving world resources!

[@TH-1207]

Ivan, you have got the patience of a saint. I had to repair a melted fuel injection harness that had fallen down near the exhaust manifold of a 2002 Chrysler T&C. There was plenty of length that I was able to shorten every wire about 4 inches to get rid of the meltage. I repaired all the wires one at a time soldered butt splice and glue filled heat shrink. Everything was fine afterward. Before the repair I had massive random misfires then after a cold night nothing worked. Fun not. But I got it. Whew.

[@jimburgess9205]

Ivan: the patron saint of meltage.

[@Andy_Hinners]

Careful, Ivan might think you're comparing him to Saint Ivan IV Vasilyevich.

[@comporangegt]

I was curious about this issue because I remember there being a tsb about the door lock actuators sticking do to water intrusion and freezing the actuators. I did some more searching and apparently there is a warranty extension program it’s 20M04, this covers the door lock actuators for a longer period of time. So it looks like this may have happened to other trucks out there. I did read where someone had a crew cab truck and could hear the left rear actuator going on its own and did it so much the actuator stopped working and then had other issues creeping up. Hope this helps, maybe the customer can take it back to the dealer and ask about that warranty extension.

[@matthewpellegrini1905]

I just had this exact same thing happen 2 months ago! 2012 f250 xlt 6.2 truck. Drivers rear door actuator kept cycling for months and we weren’t notified till all locks stopped working. Found the harness melted from the actuator all the way to the bcm. Replaced the entire cab harness, door harness, and actuator. Because the airbag module is under the center console and the lock wire melted to the airbag wires but never shorted to them. Crazy that you had the exact same thing happen!

[@matthewpellegrini1905]

Believe it or not you can replace that entire harness in about 3 hours. The interior comes out very easy.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@matthewpellegrini1905 WOW that is crazy! What do you mean the actuator "kept cycling for months"? How could it cycle by itself when there's no input from the BCM? And it's on the same tree as the other 2 passenger doors? 🤔🤔🤔

[@matthewpellegrini1905]

@ I question the same thing! I work for an airline in Boston. This is one of our aircraft maintenance trucks that they use for road calls. They asked us to look into the locks because the left rear door has been “clicking” for months. I was wondering if the actuator sends a position feed back to the bcm? So if it doesn’t see unlocked it keeps trying? They said the only thing that made it stop was locking the doors. No issues sense repairs so I doubt the bcm is at fault. A dead short in the door jam wouldn’t have cycled the actuator I wouldn’t imagine.

[@gerardjohnson2106]

​@matthewpellegrini1905 : Damn, that sounds sketchy as hell. An airline maintenance truck used to make road calls. Hope I never see the crew of that truck making a roadside call for an airliner. Furthermore, I hope I'm not on that roadside airliner. 😂🤣😂🤣

[@matthewpellegrini1905]

@@gerardjohnson2106 more like sending a few of our guys 1-2 states away for extra hands at smaller airports if something needs fixed, less like side of the highway engine swaps 😂

[@mark-d9k9b]

If the owner had taken it to the stealership, this time, and only this time, they would have been right telling him he needs a complete wiring harness. No one would have believed them though! 😂🤣

[@firstlast---]

Excellent repair and diagnosis. I agree on an older truck there's no point in spending all that money for a new harness. Maybe if he really wanted the lock to work you could have ran a redundant wire. It's also way cheaper to turn around and pull up on the lock 😂

[@abdulhkeem.alhadhrami]

Ivan is right calling this a disaster, what a MESS!

[@joerubi03]

That’s amazing that truck didn’t burn down! Nice job finding the issues.

[@CraZyNOTRT]

I would have just cut out and replaced the burnt wiring, just use labels if wire color is not available. you can get rolls of wire at home depot fairly cheap. I've had to rebuild entire wire harnesses in some old boats that I've had due to dry rot and mouse damage. Or get some trailer wire to replace it.

[@phprofYT]

Multiple other wires also suffered damage. It 's a mess from one end to the other. It would take hours and best done on a bench. Repairable, yes but is it worth it?

[@CraZyNOTRT]

@phprofYT I would, but I have ocd when it comes to wiring. For an even simpler fix to get rear door lock working, would to tie it in with the front door control wires.

[@survivingga]

Amazing. I did an almost identical repair on a 2012 F150 Platinum. Harness was discontinued at Ford and I ended up having to repair it all. Total interior tear down, billed 28 hours. It was a no start from melting the hi speed CAN network. Caused by LF door harness.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@survivingga HOLY CRAP! 😬

[@survivingga]

@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics as silly as it sounds, someone left one single harness clip loose in the door and the power window power wire rubbed the speaker cutout. Unfortunately, that also powered all four doors windows and seat heaters. I still can't explain why it never blew the fuse.

[@DonDegidio]

Hi Ivan, I agree with another comment there is a missing part to the story. Glad you were able to restore most of the door locks with no parts required.

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

Great job!! We never get the whole story from the customer. Thanks Ivan!

[@williamwhite9767]

Wow! You tackle jobs that no one else would!

[@Bizija123]

Ivan the wire whisperer. Holy moly what a massive mess that was.

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

What a carnage, Ivan! Total loom meltdown! Makes me wonder if the fuse blown and someone used a "temporary" paper clip to keep it working, until a new fuse was available. Nice recovery of a doomed wire loom - tape bonanza 🙂

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

For wiring harness repairs I keep a few feet of multi-core trailer cable as it is a useful source of wire of different colours

[@DIYDaveOK]

Either some old aftermarket junk pulled too much current or an improper or cheap fuse was put in at some point and fried everything. Great repair as always, Ivan!

[@pwbpeter]

Great job Ivan, saved another one from the scrapyard 👍

[@additudeobx]

18-gauge wire is rated at 10 amps. If that leg of wire was forced to carry 15 amps, it would take a few minutes for the wire to heat up, melt the insulation, then short and pop the fuse. Technically, the wire was the fuse in this fault.

[@elelectricistademateo]

ey Ivan. hope you're ok. never told me if you watched your tribute in my channel lol you deserve that and more. thank you for suffering that way for us in order to learn the easy way by just watching you and of course reading the technical information. you are the best ever. sorry Dan lol. I am sure he agrees with that. take care Ivan. greetings from Caracas.

[@ALEX-xd7ko]

Ivan .I've been seeing more of this on the newer stuff. The manufactures are putting multiple normally low amperage devices on one circuit with 1 large fuse .

[@JamesAgans]

Hi Ivan, did you ever get the full story on this truck? The fact that no fuse blew before all that carnage happened is quite troubling to me as a Ford truck owner. Please post a follow up after you get the straight-skinny on this.

[@shadymaint1]

I replaced the interior wiring harness on a FJ Cruiser. Ground wire from the trailer plug all the way to under the hood melted. Had to gut the whole interior to change the harness.

[@Z-Ack]

Yea first thought was junkyard ware harness and junkyard doorlock and door harness.. theres a hundred of those trucks at every junkyard everywhere.. like 100$ in parts, plus your labor..

[@brianw8963]

The liability police might not agree, but for what it was I’d call it a win and I’m sure the owner is happy. Great rescue in my book. 👍👍🇺🇸

[@paulsmith1084]

Hi, Ivan. I wondered why you did not run a new wire from the power lock straight to the bcm to isolate all the burnt wire and you could have saved a lot of work.

[@ADScar]

Great job fixing that mess!

[@johnisaacson2589]

Great detective work Ivan and a man of extreme patience Ivan. But... as noted in other comments. a person would have smelled it. I worked in power and electronics and large wire harness for 6 decades. It was way over fused or repeated until it shorted for a long time. Love your videos but man, if it shorts again and a fire starts and people get hurt ... it worries me liability stuff. Take care, love your videos.

[@stevenakn1]

Nice Ivan can't ask for much more than that. I was thinking it was gonna be something with those side steps when I saw them.

[@1deadeye]

A window left down and add water intrusion from a rain storm. Caused a shorted switch to draw continuously. The fuse not popping is a good one.

[@wallace3953]

This analysis makes a lot of sense......Window down, Rain. the actuator gets soaked....trouble arises...

[@Andy_Hinners]

@@wallace3953 That or a dog holding down the actuator while he has his head out the window for a 2 hour drive.

[@PhillipBailey]

Good fix!

[@baxrok2.]

Amazing diag. Thanks Ivan!

[@raymondreiff8170]

May have been too close to a lightning strike, But if none of the computer's ever failed ever probably not, A few years ago I seen a Ram that had its radio antenna burnt halfway down from a lightning strike, It fried the ECM etc in this case. Great work

[@neilmurphy845]

Another job well done Iven

[@dustcommander100]

Once one ckt is shorted to another, all bets are off! Fuse size may be wrong for the smaller wire, ckt diagram won't be correct, etc. Very hard to troubleshoot when unrelated ckts are connected by damage. You did good, like always!

[@LesReeves]

A really great test study for finding wiring problems ,The only concern I have is what else could go crazy & possibly start a fire in the vehicle when left over night /long time in the sun etc.If it was my vehicle I would be worried all the time that it may catch fire .Worst case is when driving & not being able to stop ,get out in time .Cheers Ivan I know you work hard & try to make Russian repairs safe.

[@CajunShrek]

I an sounds like you need to have a pick n pull salvage yard in ya arsenal to pull sections of wire harness in this situations

[@CedroCron]

Ivan I just googled Powerstroke and melted door lock wire and guess what comes up... Pages of various years of similar complaints in Ford forums. Maybe an issue from Ford they haven't fixed? ... Good job though Ivan, what a mess that was!

[@roman-kk4ug]

Thanks for sharing.

[@lvsqcsl]

I was hoping for a Russian Hack. This video is of interest to me because I have one of these trucks. That electric seat feels good on these cold mornings and I use the power locks and all the accessories. I promise, if a fuse blows I will contact you immediately and not replace with a higher amp fuse. GREAT VIDEO!

[@karlvondrak6080]

Great video Ivan. I noticed some burned pin sockets on the first video and on the first video, I was confused at why the driver's door lock worked when you sent power down the one wire with the connector disconnected. From what I think I was seeing was that you took away the ground when the connector was disconnected. With all of those wires melted, it must have found a different ground path?

[@dweijers2193]

Hello, I think the customer put the remote in his throuser pocket and by accident activated the buttons constantly (while sitting ?) so heating up the wires, I think this is the only possible reason So I never put the remote in my pants pocket. by the way, nice job Ivan

[@frugalprepper]

I see this with people who buy cheap Chinese Amazon after market fake fuses. Sometimes a 5 amp fuse will not blow until it hits 25-30 amps, or sometimes they will not blow at all.

[@Garth2011]

Or go to a dealership, buy their fuses and read on the package Made in China.

[@kdmq]

There is plenty of speculation on the client installing larger fuses, jumper wires, etc. But what I'm wondering is what was the original problem to begin with? Probably the rear left actuator being shorted? However, the nature of door locks is they only pulse for 1 second or so, so, even if the owner had a jumper wire bridging the fuse, normal door lock operation would not enable a thermal runaway of the wiring harness. Let's say there was a short to B+ on the power window circuit to deliver continuous current to the power lock wires through a fuse higher than 20A (assuming the window circuit even has a fuse higher than 20A) and even then, I would think the lock relay defaulting to ground would deliver a hard enough short to blow even a 100A fuse before this much damage occurred, (I'd expect to see maybe an inch or two of harness melted). Another thing that could cause a thermal runaway of the harness that caused the entire harness to melt this badly would be if the owner did a bypass test with an unfused jumper wire and no test light, but even THIS is not adding up for me, as we see no burn marks on the BCM connector or any other easy-to-reach connectors, and I don't think an owner intelligent enough to inject their power somewhere in the middle of the harness would be doing such an asinine bypass test. This leaves another option, Let's say the original failure was one shorted door lock actuator, and the owner installed a jumper wire (because no fuse will stand up to a direct short), and then the door lock button got held down for an extended period of time (either by cargo or a kid in the seat). This would cause the shorted actuator to enter a thermal runaway for as long as the button was depressed. What gets me is that the micro inside the BCM would have to have no protection logic to limit the pulse time of the door lock relay, which means both poor engineering and an irresponsible owner. The fact that so much has to happen for this scenario to be correct leads me to believe I am only 25% sure this is what happened, and the reality could be a million different things. However, this is the only scenario I have not been able to completely rule out.

[@kastooMcFry]

Weird problem.. How is that allowed to happen? Thanks for bringing us along, Ivan.

[@timkis64]

i'll NEVER complain about reaching across my truck to unlock the door or wind the window down again.

[@JamesAgans]

Amen! It's a truck. You must be driving a real old timer. Even my 94 F150 has power locks, windows. Good on you👍 I remember my Dad (RIP) telling me that you don't want power windows because if you slide off the road into the river, you want to be able to crank open your windows. Lolol

[@davidwachtveitl7755]

Scary, I have a 2014 F450 that just started blowing the door lock fuse. I replaced it once and the door locks worked a few times and then blew the fuse again. I sure hope I don't find such a mess. 🤯

[@tj4683]

Swapping that harness out is not very difficult just need to pull the seats and carpet and dash. Well unless you think that is difficult anyways but is quite easy on the superdutys. Good time to clean the interior also while it's apart!

[@johnt.848]

Only takes a few days lol.

[@stevenmorris25]

Oh I have seen that before, had to replace the entire wire harness. I seen a lot on Mercedes, Ford, Chrysler and Jeep.

[@robertsmith2956]

Maybe he used a 20A amazon fuse. They are good for about 75 amps before they slow blow. Back in 75 I had smoke from under the rear seat. Back then you could just pull them out no tools required. Wire harness running under the seat had started to melt. Disconnected the battery, and repaired the wires. Helps when you catch it in the act, it stays local.

[@pauldavis8716]

Bro, I see these types of mad wiring and burnt wires because jump shorts everyday in Panamá. That's how I have to work all the time but it doesn't bother because it makes me happy when done collecting. 😂

[@richb419]

Hi Ivan, good job ! someone put a very large fuse in the circuit, probably worked for a while until the wires melted together. Rich

[@titaniumman_22]

Would the wire heat up if he kids playing with the key fob and they continuously held down the button for a period of time to heat up the wire?

[@glenharper3136]

Thanks for the video Ivan.

[@rafflesnh]

Jeez that's a Hiroshima not a catastrophe, Ivan! 😉I wonder if a small dog could have propped itself up on one of the switches to see out?

[@dazone]

The fuse that was used previously was 30A fuse?

[@haroldhawkins9370]

Nice video Ivan. Nice repair job.

[@bobparks1505]

I believe a shade tree mechanic swapped a paper clip for a fuse and blue smoke probably filled the air while the fireworks were traveling up the harness.

[@douglasburford8452]

Could this wire frying incident have deployed the side curtain air bag? Or any of them for that matter.

[@daverose8772]

Very good diag and repair boychick. If the l/rear door lock solenoid fried, the master switch, (driver door), or the l/rear door lock switch stuck, the door lock solenoid could fry in time. Does the BCM have a time out on the solenoid output circuit. Might need new switches or BCM, OR BOTH.

[@Tech-Dave]

Was a new harness available or a couple of them maybe?

[@blindabinda1234]

Could something like this happen if someone's dog happened to be standing on the door lock or unlock while they went into a store or something like that?

[@davidmc8110]

I suppose the electricity was being divided somehow lowering the resistance enough that the fuse didn't blow until there was a dead-short. A slight design flaw, a luck of the draw for how things happened? Ford had something similar (in a way, sort of) in their older 4 cylinder Mustangs where a harness connection would melt, and then it would short, and you'd lose your radiator cooling fans and whatever else. It only cost about $150 to fix back then, at the dealer, times have changed 😏

[@snooketcher]

I’ve ran into similar issues. As you know these bcm’s are problematic. My suspicion is that the internal circuits of the bcm absorb more of the current than the fusing resulting in overheating circuits. Still doesn’t explain what initially caused the short.

[@moefuggerr2970]

Looks like his fuse blew so he replaced it with a bigger one. The wires would not melt with the correct fuse.

[@TonyMancini-js2br]

Great job

[@adamtrombino106]

What a toaster effect. That has got to be 1 of the worst i've ever seen. So, what, new BCM, new harness, new actuator? It's a miracle the truck didn't burn to the ground!

[@robertprelewitz4511]

That's what I was thinking. There must have been SMOKE in the cab.😮

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

I personally wouldn't touch that and say it's repaired without having the entire harness and BCM replaced, for a customer due to liability reasons. If my own vehicle I'd replace any and all melted wires separately. I did as much for a friend's 1996 Jeep Cherokee back in 2008. I rebuilt the entire harness along the driver side floorboard. The cause MAY have been related to the faulty Harbor Freight fuses of that era but unprovable.

[@Carcrafter7165]

Looks like a harness replacement the entire thing. As someone said I think there’s more to the story than what the owner told you Ivan.

[@d1bergman]

I'm sure the cost of a new wire harness would be prohibitive but one from a junk yard would be do-able. Should be easier to pull the old one and install the new one.

[@dukwdriver2909]

Curious if the faulty door was intermittent and they got frustrated with fuses blowing. So tried a 50A and left it out after they smelled burning in the cabin. My curiosity would have made me take a look inside the faulty door for my own information.

[@MR.KNOWITALL1982]

A lot of wire ties down there by the BCM, was someone in there before? Most likely senerio is that someone had a door panal apart at some time and didn't clip the harness in the correct location. So it probably has a rub through somewhere(intermittent)causing short. 2cents

[@johnboywaltonbeard4699]

Ivan…I think you should have removed the left rear door panel and investigated. Maybe water got into the left rear door lock motor and shorted it out.

[@NeoAndersonReloaded]

Sounds like there was an issue and it would pop fuses hear and there. So they just put in a bigger fuse to reduce the tripping but compromise the wiring integrity.

[@warddc]

My guess is that originally the door lock was shorting internally and blowing fuses. Someone then replaced the 20 AMP fuse with larger to "fix" the problem. The circuit cooked and eventually blew the larger fuse as well.

[@wyattearp1372]

Buddy of mine got a bag of fuses at a car swap.He had a short in a camper he made and melted the fuse box a caught it on 🔥.we got it put out. Come find out the fuses was reject’s from factory.they would not blow get so hot and started a fire 🔥.so watch out for bad deals

[@1McMurdoSilver]

Which raises a good question. How does a factory test the quality of a fuse to ensure it doesn't exceed the amp rating?

[@russellhltn1396]

In a overcurrent situation, the entire wire is going to get hot. It will be hottest where it's least able to breathe - like in a bundle of wires. Only in a poor connection situation would you expect to the damage to limited to near where the fault is.

[@major__kong]

In aviation, there's a bundle derating factor. But this seems like something else. Maybe it was designed for intermittent use but the actuator got stuck on.

[@russellhltn1396]

@@major__kong Since it's under the control of the BCM, it begs the question if the BCM has logic to prevent that. I know a stuck relay could do that, but there's no evidence that happened. I just wonder what would happen if the command switch got stuck down.

[@gregjohnson2073]

Saturday night treat. Thanks

[@kellygibson7299]

Customer states door locks inop: -Found fuse missing, but wiring fused together. -Recommend using truck to power Christmas decorations in front yard.

[@larryparker1585]

Broken cable ties in wiring channel. Somebody has been here before!

[@CubasAutomotive]

What a dang mess?! So many wires damaged and for long lengths. I can't imagine doing overlays would be feasible here. I'm still quite early in the vid tho. Seeing where this goes.....

[@CubasAutomotive]

Interestingly enough. I'm working on the same vehicle... Guy had an accident. Bought a donor truck. Replaced the frame & all sorts of stuff but has multiple codes. Abs, airbag, air ride, & a bunch of little things. The shop ghosted him after doing some if the work but luckily has all the modules & parts. Lots of Vin mismatching too. Got a few things knocked out already. Waiting on a tool for the airbag module .... hopefully finish that truck thurs.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I know, Cuba! Never seen a wire get so hot that it melted the entire length from A to B 😂😬

[@fixxerautomotive4917]

I think the customer left out the part where he put in a 40 amp fuse to try and fix the problem DIY. Also, I noticed that your Amazon store needs to be updated- I guess the PP921 isn't available anymore- looks like they might have superseded it. Is the price difference between the 3 channel and 4 channel just for the extra channel or is there more to it? Also, you used to have a big test lead kit listed to go along with the scope but I'm not seeing it anywhere- any ideas? I think im ready to get setup with a scope for the shop and want to make sure i get the right thing without overspending too much.

[@dougreeves7616]

At this point I think the owner should troll the junkyards for the wiring harness , I can’t think of anyone that wouldn’t replace the harness even at high mileage. Beats $90,000.00 for a new truck Love your show …

[@grahamstevenson1740]

The reason that the loom has melted is that the wires individually cannot handle the 20 Amp current fuse rating, I'd estimate them as being only good for around 5 Amps continuously. It's totally a design error. Remember that a fuse will carry its rated current indefinitely, it takes multiple times the rated current to blow it quickly. A 2x overload may take minutes to blow.

[@truracer20]

Two choices for why the fuse didn't protect the circuit. 1) the fuse kept blowing so it got replaced with a higher amp fuse, 2) the circuit shorted to another circuits power wire.

[@steve-Fixit]

20amps is actually a large amount for those small wires. If we look at electric code it requires a 12 gauge wire. Those wires look like 18 gauge they can handle 20 amps only for a short time. Extended time will overheat and then cause a melt down. Nice job of fault tracing. You should make a test light that is switchable .5a,1a,2a,5a and so on. Would be nice to have it all in one stick.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

My dual-bulb test light set IS easily switchable...that's exactly why it is so versatile!

[@ToxicwasteProductions]

Personally I would have ran a external wire harness. Cut all the bad wires then spliced to new and run a harness where it's not really super visible. And tell the owner not to use a incorrect fuse and to be glad that it works period. My thinking is that if someone line in this case obviously must have had incorrect fuse or no fuse they don't care to much about the car. Then it's fine to run external harness with like 10>15 wires. Cheap fast and gets the job done.

[@gillgetter3004]

Had the same thing on a State owned truck a few years ago. The dealership fixed it by replacing the harness or harness es. They seemed to know exactly what it was, and had parts in stock. Took half a day?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Interesting...must be a Ford thing!

[@Beni_777]

So basically to restore the function of the rear left door lock is to replace like 5-6 wires going from the BCM to the door lock connector?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Plus the actuator itself lol

[@VashthStampeede]

Do you know for sure what amperage fuse was really in there when the wires melted? I have seen, too many times, where some people will increase the fuse amperage after the fuse blows. They don't realize that the fuse melts to protect the circuit wiring. They don't understand that the wiring will melt to protect the higher rated fuse. They may have had a 30 amp fuse in there when the wires cooked.

[@amtpdb1]

I have in the past seen a short tracer that was a needle in round frame that you put on the wire and it told you where the short would be. The needle just pointed to the left or right. Would not something like this help? SG Tool Aid 25100 Short Tester Thanks for the video.

[@davidnull5590]

It's too bad there isn't a Harry's U-Pull It location near State College. Harry's has 2014s in their yards. Power door lock actuators are $15. They sell wiring harnesses, prices range from $20 to $50.. I believe the $50 is for everything. The Catch: you have to pull it from their cars and trucks yourself. You can pull what you need to replace and leave the rest; don't pull the whoe harness - you'll be there for a full day.. Or have the number of one of the "contractors" who will pull parts for you and ship them to you -- Getting the phone numbers of good parts pickers is difficult. Ivan's time is valuable, he's too skilled to be pulling parts at a yard. You can waste a huge amount of time walking around one of these U-Pull it yards; I think Harry's has around 4,000 vehicles total. Are there any junk yards near State College?

[@johnaclark1]

Yes, but nothing is more fun that walking around U-Pull it yards!

[@greggc8088]

No offense because everyone does business a bit differently, but finding it the problem being the huge time consumer, I wouldn't have given the customer the option of not fixing the harness anyway. Up to him to foot the change for the shorted actuator/latch assembly though. Good find! I've seen vehicles start serious fires from that sort of thing. Had one with a back seat started smoldering due to one. Reminds me that fire extinguishers are good to carry along for the ride or at least good insurance.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yup I have an extinguisher in every one of my rusty beaters ;)