Puch ZA50 Moped Engine Rebuild, Crank Shimming, Bearings and Seals (Part 1 of 2)

I am rebuilding a Puch ZA50 moped engine. In this video I am rebuilding the engine cases with new bearings and seals. I am also using a new crank from treatland.tv. tinyurl.com/ymn...
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Great wiki - www.mopedarmy....
Caliper I used - amzn.to/428UnEB
Assembly Lube - amzn.to/3u3scKi
Tusk Crank Puller - amzn.to/48zEXeH
Crank Bearings
1 x E20 Bearing 20 x 47 x 12 or Suzuki RM 125 92-08 Transmission Bearing 09262-20122
1 x L17 Bearing 17 x 40 x 10 or Kawasaki OEM Ball Bearing 92045-1334
Transmission Cover Bearings
6002 (Clutch Bell/Crank)
16101 (Main Shaft, Oil Injected)
16100 (Main Shaft, Non Oil Injected)
Main Shaft Case Bearing
6005
Output Shaft Bearings
B-810
6203
Seals
17x35x(7 or 8mm) Magneto side crank seal
20x35x(7 or 8mm) Transmission side crank seal
25x35x(7 or 8mm) Output shaft seal - stock seal comes with a metal ring. Pop that out if you're going to replace it.
#Puch #ZA50 #mopeds
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[@Corn-ped]

Thanks for watching yall! This video took longer than I wanted. I took about 3 months to gather everything together and make sure my information was accurate. Please let me know what yall think! Feeling generous? Buy me a coffee to help support my videos. www.buymeacoffee.com/Cornped

[@soccerfever128]

You're a legend for simplifying what I've been hesitant to do for years bc I didn't want to buy factory tools or use squish gauges.. time to rebuild the za i blew up years ago

[@Corn-ped]

get it done! its not too hard. just take your time.

[@brandonjennings589]

Cornped for moped mayor

[@Corn-ped]

Thank you!

[@philschaller7474]

To be honest, this post made me apprehensive about doing it DIY. I have rebuilt 3 e50s and run them lots. Kitted and stock. I have French Bikes that I have rebuilt, yes French bikes! My thought was you were going to demonstrate a rebuild that ZA50 owners could perform. Truth is you are figuring it out like the rest of us. Crank... I figure the best is to get a rebuild from the one you have done by a motorcycle shop. IDK. My motor runs fine now, I am trying to gather information for the future. It's good work, just thinking about how to do this. The first post on how to take apart was spot on. I am a fan, just,.. I think you could do better showing us how you figured this out.

[@Corn-ped]

Thank you for the feed back. I figured it out as I went and from reading posts on MA, other forums, and watching youtube videos for 3 months. I tried to combine all of the best info into a single video. I also got the factory tools and felt like using a caliper was actually easy. My stock crank was shot so I needed a different one. I could have bought a used one and had it rebuilt but I wanted to find a good aftermarket one. I tested out a couple aftermarket versions until I found the treats version 2 crank that had the correct dimensions.

[@DaveCBwfc]

I think I need to buy a press haha. Thanks for the vid! You're making me feel more confident about rebuilding a za50.

[@Corn-ped]

its pretty easy. just a lot of steps!

[@DaveCBwfc]

@@Corn-ped Did those 1 piece replacement crank bearings fit without modification?

[@Corn-ped]

yea they fir with no modification.

[@nathanw5747]

I thought you mentioned somthing about sending the cases off for boring ​@Corn-ped

[@Corn-ped]

@@nathanw5747 yes. I sent them to Ryan Cranks to have it bored out to fit a Gila cylinder skirt.

[@MBTU-ju8ts]

Where do you buy parts? They stopped producing clutches right?

[@Corn-ped]

I get most of the parts from Doscycles.com and Treatland.tv. I think trickmetric is making limited runs of after market clutches. Treats has some used clutches. The clutches are easy to reline or you can find good condition used one.

[@sameshitagain6735]

reline your clutches yourself, much better friction material out there that wil last a very very long time.. and change the springs to thomas ones.... red/ yellow....doing a za50 rebuild now, new type bearings god seend, fit perfectly. NTN 17X40X10 IS THE OLD L17.....NTN 20X47X12 is the old E20..... fit so nice, the crank slides in perfectly, you can pull apart and shim spot on.

[@sameshitagain6735]

good vid.

[@noahbohlen195]

What are the ball shaft bearings called? 

[@chadtufts6320]

Awesome!!! I need a press

[@Corn-ped]

You can find them for cheap on marketplace and Craigslist. I got mine for $20 it was a full heigh standing one but I cut it down to fit in my garage better.

[@jaroslavgoby5136]

Hmm, one-piece bearings. Is it a better solution than three-pieces? I have one ZA50 to assembly too...

[@Corn-ped]

They were easy to work with. and they were cheaper. Shinning was different because you had to measure before you put the bearing on and you couldn't take the bearing off to change the shim the way they do in the manual. But if you use a depth gauge or a caliper the way I did then it doesn't matter

[@jaroslavgoby5136]

Yeah, disassembly must be then fun with these bearings 😂

[@Corn-ped]

@@jaroslavgoby5136 yeah I have a case splitter so it's fine. But without it you would be bashing the crank.

[@Outback69]

Well this is a appropriate topic for this comment. My question is, I have the single speed E50. I have new bearings and a entire CDI 12v system set aside for the bike for next year around this time. I plan to install new rings next year to my AIRSAL kit, new gaskets, add new bearings all around with new seals. Right now I am running a stock crank and a AIRSAL cylinder with stock bearings, techno circuit exhaust and a clone bing carb. I have the tools to tear apart the engine but I feel like if I am doing it to soon I am gonna open a can of worms and make things a lot worse. I want this bike to be as safe as it can be for what it is and dead reliable for what it is. It is my first bike. I want to take care of it as is but also want it to last a long time with out running a entire line of credit to fix the bike. I plan to run the engine the way it is with just a top end rebuild and the rims and brakes rebuilt. I want to build every thing up next winter. I bought the bike with 2086 miles on it. I now have almost near 2200 miles on the entire machine. PUCH says to rebuild the engine around 3600 miles to 4000 miles. Every thing seems ok and really decent for what it is right now. But while its winter, Am I better off to be safe then sorry and rebuild the engine now or should I just wait another year and then rebuild it all? I know what I am doing but I just want the best advice as possible. This summer, I would like to use it at least two to three days a week at most. I work at a family shop and we all ride together. No its not a moped shop, my day job is to repair vacuum cleaners and home appliances that fit that criteria. All this engine stuff came about because I had a need to fill time. I mix my fuel around 32:1 or MORE with marine grade two cycle oil. I also add a bit of red line lead substitute for extra lubrication in warmer weather well by warmer I mean 100F. The engine runs like a top around 25:1-32:1 fuel ratio is the best. I do not want to do 50:1 that's to high. I plan to jet my carb to a 85-89 jet range for more lube and fuel. Thanks for all your help and time, I hope I am not asking too many questions at all with all of this stuff. This is my first ever personal vehicle and I want to treat it with care. Have a good night-W

[@Corn-ped]

if its not broken, dont fix it. . . but also the stock seals and bearings are 40 years old so I dont think they are going to last a whole lot longer. Its really a toss up. If it breaks down this summer are you going to be out of transportation? a full e50 rebuild can be done in an afternoon.

[@Outback69]

No not fully out, I have a 2023 e Dash Mini as a back up bike... I plan to use the e bike every day and the Puch more like a oh shit the battery is dead bike. That's all, right now it's winter and I got time to burn. I feel like I am running out of time with this stuff because I am trying to get stuff done before I get a biopsy to see what's going on with my health. Things are not good. I am just rebuilding this bike now mainly as a thing to keep my mind off of what's going on. That is all. So yeah I just wanted your advice it is a toss up. I don't wanna push my health and my body more then I haft to so that's why I was asking about the bearings. I also don't want to push the engine if it's a safety concern to have the bearings checked at all. I do seriously want to put use on it not a million miles but it will be in place of my e bike once my battery dies and needs charged. Bought the e bike in November and have not really had to charge it yet. That's the plan any ways.

[@Outback69]

I also live eight miles from work about a 20 minute ride not a lot but can add up. Do you have any E50 rebuild videos I would be interested? They help a lot I mean seriously they do help. I never had it so easy rebuilding something while watching a KZbin video. Parts are pricey but you are saving me a LOT of money right now. Thank you for posting these!

[@Corn-ped]

Yeah I have a couple e50 rebuild videos. Search on my channel.

[@leepinkerton6854]

Hell yea

[@Corn-ped]

Thanks man!

[@motzingg]

Nice caliper... so cool you can zero it with the push of a button!

[@Corn-ped]

Yeah. I could zero my old one with the twist of a wrist. But this is a solid upgrade.

[@HoarderErik]

Great za content!

[@Corn-ped]

Thanks Erik!

[@WhereisBeeain]

Awesome video 💚 I think you may have pushed the clutch side crank seal from the wrong side, though.

[@Corn-ped]

I looked in the manual and that's how it read to me. I also used double lip seal so it shouldn't matter. But the seal debate will continue! Ohh I also watched my dissembly video and it looks like I pushed out the original seal on the same orientation?

[@WhereisBeeain]

The picture in the manual im going off of shows different. When you insert the tool Treatland sells with the outer crank race installed, the tool bottoms out in the proper spot. I never checked inserting from the clutch side but maybe it is the same.

[@Corn-ped]

I pressed it in like 4 steps and measured and went little by little. And in the in I was able to go all the way with the tool. So I just tried to show it going all the way. When I was looking at the depth it looked way shallower than the magnito side. But when pressed it in, it seemed perfect.

[@Corn-ped]

I reread that step and I agree with you now. I don't see why the direction would matter with double lip seals. But if I do it again I'll do it the other way.

[@Corn-ped]

If you watch my video taking it apart at 16:22 you can see the seal is facing inward. Maybe this was already rebuilt wrong? kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZm0hGlvftWsqcksi=v-J9sM235uC5m35b