PZEM-061 AC Power Meter, Inside Look, Part 1

Let's take a look inside this PZEM-061 AC Power Meter.
Peacefair/Bayite PZEM-061 AC Power Meter:
amzn.to/3I7RQ2H
Capacitive dropper power supply, 1uF/275V cap
Fuse, diode bridge and 5V and 3.3V regulator circuitry under the large cap.
5/8" (16mm ) ID current transformer
10A = 10mA ratio
~100 ohm sense resistor.
Renergy/Sunshine Science RN8208G Single-phase metering IC
en.sfkj-tech.com/cp3_1/&produc...
3.579MHz for RTC in power meter, i.e Watt-Hours
SPI interface
ST Micro 32F030
www.st.com/web/en/catalog/mmc/...
8MHz clock for uController
ST LInk header for debugging/programming on the upper left corner
Holtek HT1621/HT1621G -- RAM Mapping 32x4 LCD Controller
www.holtek.com/english/docum/c...
In the next video, I'll take a look at some of the available variations on this interesting meter including some with serial data output and also DC capability up to 100 amps...
Unboxing video:
• AC Power Panel Meter
Operation video:
• PZEM-061 AC Panel Mete...
Be sure to rate, comment and share.
And as always, thanks for watching!
SOUNDTRACK:
Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
web.archive.org/web/201704022...

[@mrhydrohead]

I was looking on ebay at these to monitor my microhydro power system and your videos helped sort all of this out for me. Thanks for your work. I've subscribed too.

[@The4Crawler]

+MrHydrohead Thanks for subscribing. Glad the videos on this power meter were helpful. When I purchased this one, I only had the data in the on-line listing to go by, so it was a bit of a shot in the dark. They seem to be quite handy family of meters. I have a few different models that I want to test out and compare, so stay tuned for those videos.

[@ralphpaxton3634]

i know I'm kind of randomly asking but does anybody know of a good website to stream new movies online ?

[@andrewgary4345]

@Ralph Paxton Flixportal

[@ralphpaxton3634]

@Andrew Gary Thanks, I signed up and it seems to work =) Appreciate it !!

[@andrewgary4345]

@Ralph Paxton no problem :D

[@entrend]

What is the maximum digit can the energy meter display? It shows reading in Wh, does it change to 1Kwh after reaching 1,000Wh? If not, for instance, the max digit that can be displayed is 4, It can only then show 9999Wh, If so, does it reset to zero after reaching max???? Hope you can clarify. Thanks..

[@The4Crawler]

It does change to KWH after reaching 9999WH as I recall. I think it'll go up to 9999KWH then roll over to 0, but I've not seen that happen. My inverter power meter is at 436KWH, so it'll take a while to max out.

[@entrend]

@@The4Crawler thanks for clarifying, you pretty much covered everything I wanted to know about the device. thank you for making this video!

[@The4Crawler]

Glad the information and video helped. With these meters, it seems most of the information about them is figured out by users. Only way way to see the KWH readings are to push enough energy through one of these so that it rolls over on the display.

[@harrymulligan1133]

Thanks for the great video. Does the AC have to come from the same line. Ie. I want to measure the current on my mini split ac/heating units, 40A/240V and the wire is 8 gauge feeding into the breaker. Can the AC inputs to the device come from another AC breaker in the panel. The diagram makes it look like it needs to be the same wire feeding the load. Also, if I am measuring only 1 pole of the 240 circuit, would the ac be 120?

[@The4Crawler]

See below for one option: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNksi=6_furGkz1XW2Jlki You can also power the meter from 120V and then run both L1 and L2 through the CT, reversing one wire so the currents add. This way power reads correct, volts will be 1/2 and current will be 2X.

[@LizaonCountryside]

Thank you for this video, I know the video is not about installation but I hope you answer anyway. In the main breaker, Can the ring sensor thingy be installed in the input positive? I saw an instruction video here in youtube but the uploader is unresponsive. In the video I saw him put the ring on the positive output wire in the main breaker. Now when I checked my breaker, It does not have an output wire that distributes power to the sub breakers, just a flat copper plate on its back that makes it impossible to install the sensor ring. Can I just put the ring on the Input side positive? Will it still work? Hope you can enlighten me. Thanks!

[@The4Crawler]

Something like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/paeVf5mCd8ydjpY If so, then yes you can install a current transformer on the main input wire to the circuit breaker panel. You would need to use a split core current transformer unless you are able to have the power shut off so you can disconnect the input wire and slide it through the fixed current transformer. I've heard there may be split core CTs for these sorts of meters available, but I've not run across them myself.

[@LizaonCountryside]

R Brown Thank you for the answer! I don't know if we have the same panel but it's quite similar. I already bought the similar model (PZEM-022) like the one in this video. So I guess I can't use this one in my case. Or I can only use it to one of the sub breakers, since only the sub breakers have output wires. This is what I have done so far: i.imgur.com/TupqvVU.jpg my main breaker is the top left and as you can see, only input. I temporarily installed the meter on one of the sub breakers output to test it out. But afraid to try on the main breaker input since I didn't see someone do it anywhere on tutorials. So can this work specific model work? on main breaker input? or i need another model?

[@The4Crawler]

It looks as if you won't be able to use a current transformer to measure the whole panel unless you can find a single heavy gauge cable that feeds power to the back of the panel. One option you could do is to run multiple load wires off several breakers through the current transformer you have. That way, the CT will add up the currents in all the wires passing through it and combine that with the voltage to compute power and energy values. Might be a physical limit on how many wires you can physically fit though the CT.

[@LizaonCountryside]

@@The4Crawler Thank you for your input, I kinda fixed the issue now by adding a single breaker (60A) before the main breaker I showed you (60A). Our single breakers have wired output so that kinda fixed my issue. Hoping it won't make any issue in the future. Now I dont have to buy 5 of this thing. Thanks!

[@The4Crawler]

Great, glad you found a way to make it work.

[@ignasg]

Hi, thanks for such in-depth review. What is in your opinion maximum length of wires from ring transformer to this meter without siginifically affecting measurements ? (I need about 5-6meters)

[@The4Crawler]

Current Transformers work via current and not voltage, so as long as there's nothing else connected to those wires and they are of decent cross sectional area, it should be fine.

[@jvon3885]

You can actually mod these quite nicely. There are a few instructional videos out there for those curious enough.

[@The4Crawler]

Yes, they are quite a nice little meter. I modified one to read down to 0 volts.

[@HasteFrankie]

@@The4Crawler any videos on this process? Is it much different from the quest for zero on the PZEM-021?

[@tolerbearALTII]

Is there a zero volt mod like in the PZEM 21 where you lift one leg of the big capacitor for use in a variac?

[@The4Crawler]

Likely the same power input section. Or see this: drive.google.com/file/d/1w80QYWeo8H5LdRoheGxNCMZViL9uqo81/view?usp=sharing

[@chipfornaris]

Hi Rick! I have a 200amp breaker box and I ordered 2 of the same meter but with the Split core CT’s but ... If they are rated for 100 amps will this be okay on a 200 amp breaker box? If each leg of the input wires from the utility company is 100amps each then it seems it would work, ( one CT around each incoming hot leg)...but that assumes each incoming hot wire is 100amp each? Is that how it works or do I need a CT and meter that will handle 200 Amps? You have been so helpful, thanks very much!

[@The4Crawler]

A lot depends on how much current you typically use with the 200A service and how much of that 200 amps is really available from the utility. If it's pulling the full 200 amps, then there will be 200 amps flowing in each leg of the circuit. That is 200 amps coming in on L1 and 200 amps going out on L2, alternating 60 times a second. So if you want to accurately measure the full 200 amps, then you'll need a 200 amp CT and a meter set up to use the 200 amp CT. You can't just change the CT as the meter is assuming a certain amps-through-the-CT to milliamps-out-of-the-CT ratio. You could put a 200 amp CT on there that puts out the same mA as the 100A CT, but then the current readings would be displayed as 1/2 actual. But if you don't have any loads in the house that pull in excess of 100 amps combined (that's 24 KW) then the 100 amp CT should be fine. Not sure how those meters react to currents over 100 amps though. Maybe a viewer who has tried that can chime in on this comment.

[@chipfornaris]

R Brown Okay great! That is what I needed to know. Thanks again ! Please keep it up, love the videos...

[@noahbodhi4349]

Is this something that could be used with 3 phase AC? I'm wondering if it could be used to read the output of a wind turbine.

[@The4Crawler]

+Steven Funk With a single CT and voltage input, it could monitor one phase of the alternator. Assuming a balanced load, you would simply be off by the square root of 3 in the power reading, so multiply the single phase power by 1.732 to get the total for all 3 phases.

[@TheWilferch]

In use ...would you fuse the ( say, 120V / 60Hz) power legs to this unit?...and if so.....what kind of fuse ? ( 1A fast acting?)...and would you need to fuse each of the power legs or only one?

[@The4Crawler]

Most any size and type of fuse should work. The meter itself only uses 10s of milli-amps so 1 amp would work. The fuse is more to protect the wiring used to connect that meter to whatever it's connected to.

[@TheWilferch]

@@The4Crawler ...I'm using cheap versions of this device attached directly to the panel face of my emergency generator...one display monitor for each 120V leg of the 240V gen output. Like this unit you show....it comes with a ring type current transformer but requires you to source and attach 2 leads from the 120V source to the monitor itself....like this guy uses (kzbin.info/www/bejne/enXPipeFltKogKM ). OK....one fuse.....would that be on one leg....or both, for each unit? What is the risk otherwise with no fuse?...maybe only that some electrical mishap will burn the thin gauge wires used to the meter monitor? As if the thin wire is the fuse? I might take that risk if it's localized damage like that....just don't want to burn up my generator. Panel face is metal and meters are placed by themselves touching nothing else. What would I use...16-18 wire in any case? Thoughts?

[@The4Crawler]

@@TheWilferch The purpose of the fuse (or fuses) is to protect the wire from overload or the device from damage in case there's a short inside it. In your case, on a stand alone generator with the meter on a non-flammable surface, not a lot will happen if the meter fails. Usually, they'll fail open circuit with a dead power supply. And if it shorts and something burns up, you're not out a pile of money as those meters are fairly inexpensive. So one fuse in one wire, sized for the wire, will keep the wire from catching fire if there's a short. 16ga or 18ga is fine, it's hard to fit 14ga wire in the meter terminals. The meter only pulls a few 10's of milli-amps (0.010 - 0.020 amps). Put a fuse in each wire if you're concerned. One fuse would protect against one wire touching the other wire in a line-neutral short. A fuse in both wires would protect from either wire shorting to ground. The way to think of this meter is it's like having a volt meter, with the 2 probes, and a clamp-on ammeter clamped around one of the wires. You stick the volt meter probes across the two side of the generator output, there's usually a single fuse in the volt meter. Only difference with one of these meters is that you've hard wired the probes to the generator instead of holding the probes on by hand.

[@TheWilferch]

@@The4Crawler ...excellent reply with details.....super.....thanks !!!!

[@tavatchaiboonsook7249]

For this, if the display shows up at 9999kWh, will it be counted again? Or hold like that Do you have to press to reset yourself?

[@The4Crawler]

I'm not certain, but I think it'll roll over to 0 and keep counting from there.

[@tavatchaiboonsook7249]

Thank you

[@ZaidPirwani]

anyone worked with the ST LINK header on these boards to get some sort of serial data out for a Bluetooth, or RF chip or to an Arduino for basic SD Card loging?

[@The4Crawler]

From what I understand, the ST-LINK header is mainly for debugging and programming the StMicro processor. I suppose if you knew what registers or memory locations contained the desired data, you could get that sort of information, but without the source code, that might take some digging to find. Better would be to pick up one of the models with the TTL serial data output and work with that directly. I plan on doing a review of one of those modules in the near future, so stay tuned for that.

[@mlmmasteryclub4902]

Has anyone used this to measure a 24VAC system? I have just installed a 24V floor heating system and it's great. The current power supply is 24VDC and I've been using the DC volt/amp/power meter on amazon to keep tabs on the usage. Unfortunately, the AC version of this meter says 80 to 230 or so volts AC. I was going to change some resistors on the board to allow this, but I'm thinking it won't work since the CPU will still be thinking it's higher voltage. Anyone modified one of these things for lower AC voltage? Yes, I could monitor the input voltage, but I just don't want to have 120VAC (signal) wires running around. I guess I could put a series limiting resistor at the front end to protect against shorts. Thoughts, anyone?

[@The4Crawler]

You bet, just re-wire the meter to have a separate AC power supply like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGOwiYuJqt-AaM0 You'll need to have something in the 80-240V range to power it, like the input to your 24VAC system. My modified meter reads down to 1 volt AC just fine. Note that the external and measured power need to share a common reference, i.e. you'll have L/120, L/24 and and common N connection. Or for only 24VAC power, you could change out the yellow dropper capacitor for a different value or perhaps even replace it with a suitable size resistor for the power supply. For the cap, use Xc = 1/(2*PI*F*C) to work out the current value at say 120VAC (I = V/Xc) and then figure out a value of Xc (or R) that'll give you a similar current at 24VAC.

[@mlmmasteryclub4902]

Thanks for your fast response. I looked at your solution and it's fine if the meter is close to input and output connections. Unfortunately, I plan to install the meter about 20 feet away and don't want to have to run the load across that same distance. I was thinking I could use the current sense transformer version of the meter so I don't have to run the load the entire distance. Alternatively, I could just move the current sense resistor over to where the high current stuff is happening. Then I could run the current sense ends to a small signal cable (twisted pair) to the meter. Same for the voltage to be measured. I wonder if I could modify the input power section of the meter to a lower value rather than having to run the separate 120V wires to the meter just to power it up. BTW. You mentioned a 470K, but from the video it doesn't look like the right colors for 470K. yellow-violet-yellow Can you please confirm that value? Finally, thanks for the thoughts about chaning the cap to play with the current at 24V. I'll noodle on it. Thanks a bunch and keep smiling, Ron

[@The4Crawler]

I guess I was using the values on the partial schematic that a viewer had sent in: drive.google.com/open?id=0B89_DmuFw50kc1BXRVVvdUxpenM

[@agileron]

Ok. Thanks. Does anyone have a datasheet on the 8208g ic? All I have found so far is just an internal block diagram and pin assignments.

[@pmbari1]

I think you meant 1v reading not 10v

[@SaarStromer]

I do not think it is correct what you say. There is not voltage drop measured over the 100 Ohms resistor but the CT generates an AC voltage according to Lenz' law right in the coil. The load resistor and the capacitor is part of a (bad designed, btw) RCVT (resistive capacitive voltage transformer) forming the power supply for the LCD itself. Have you noticed that the resistor warms up? With 110V it is still okay, with 230V it gets almost 90 °C Proof that your theory is wrong: Detach the CT. According to your theory there should be no current flowing through the load resistor... also no voltage drop over the resistor, nor heat being generated in the R'... which is not the case. Just test it, the CT has nothing to do with the 100 Ohms resistor, it is (with the capacitor) part of the voltage divider/power supply for the LCD and measurement...

[@The4Crawler]

+biewermatz It's hard to see the traces as it's a multi-layer PCB, but you may be correct that the large resistor is indeed part of the capacitive dropper power supply. There does seem to be a low value surface mount sensing resistor under the large cap. that is across the CT inputs that I didn't see before. The CT must be kept loaded or you can get very high voltages out of it. I'll need to do some further testing to see if I can work out the wiring as it's all hidden beneath that large capacitor.

[@JohnMiller-cm5ne]

+R Brown (4Crawler) I did some poking at the circuit with my ohm meter. I now have a schematic of the front end. R17 is the shunt resistor for the current measuring. It's .5 ohms. If you want a PDF of the front end schematic, tell me how I can send it to you.

[@The4Crawler]

+John Miller Excellent work there. This is where we can all learn something about these sorts of devices as there seems to be little info. out there. I was in such a rush to get mine installed, I didn't have time to look at it in detail. I do plan on revisiting this video topi, I have one additional meter coming and then I'll look into about half a dozen different meters, AC and DC and some with serial communication ports. I'll also try out one or another mod. to power these off separate power.

[@n45w73]

+John Miller I might be very interesting to have the schematic :o) my goal is to change the shunt resistor to adjust the current I can mesure in a case of a 220v split phase source...

[@The4Crawler]

+n45w73 LInk to the file below: drive.google.com/open?id=0B89_DmuFw50kc1BXRVVvdUxpenM