Quarter Skins or Full Quarter Panels 1969 Dodge Charger episode 6

On this video we are back in the shop on the 1969 Dodge Charger and installing quarter skins. I go over the install process and talk about the differences in full quarter panels and quarter skins. I also go over and talk about what would make an Auto Metal direct or Dynacorn panel more of a quality panel vs some of the aftermarket cheap competitors and what justifies the cost of purchasing one of them.
#sheetmetalrepair #amd #restoration
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[@autometaldirect]

Great video and good demonstration on how much more work a quarter skin can be over a full quarter panel replacement. We do offer quarter skins but always recommend a full replacement over the skin whenever possible. Definitely a time and place for quarter skins and its something to consider when planning out the entire build.

[@carthageclassiccars]

AMD, thank you for watching and the feedback you gave. It really holds it weight in gold coming from the manufacture. Also, thank you for the great products your whole team produces that allows the ones doing the installs like myself bringing these classics back to life.

[@jeffallen3382]

AMD you need to sponsor Rick here! He is doing great work and showing how great your body parts are!

[@chargerr4807]

100 + 10% agree. I used those same skins on mine, and the nightmare claims another victim! :) I'll do you one better though, the angle between upper and lower on mine didn't match the OEM, so I had to slice a seam on the door post side and rebend the garbage. Then it didn't line up with the outer wheel well, which was also garbage, so unrolled that, and then unrolled the back quarter round thingies. Both quarters. If the devil ever re-encarnated as sheet metal, these would be it. Well done sir, a true professional doesn't back away from a challenge!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much for the feedback. I didn't go over what you said but you also are 100% right I had the same exact issues as you did with the door post and I also sliced the wheel arches to fit. I honestly was trying not to beat a dead horse already talking bad about the part.

[@captainrick01]

This is such a great and informative video Rick! there is so much information that can be taken from this episode, love the work you do on this channel 👌

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you so much I really appreciate it.

[@mikedaugharty5544]

When I get to doing my car it will be AMD metal all the way in full quarters thank you for the great video and the explanation of why and what is different about stuff excellent thanks again

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome, thanks for watching and the feedback and good luck on your build!

[@skipsims2384]

My opinion is your opinion, I agree. You’re doing the work so why not let you run with it! You’ve earned my trust with all your work, that’s why my Challenger is coming to you Rick! Great work as always!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks you Skip I am excited for the opportunity.

[@brdarley]

I learned along time ago in business. Customers will spend $10,000 to save a $100. They bring the car to you for the quality that your provide. Do it the way you need to do it to uphold your standards or send them down the road!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes that is the best advice and what I have learned that lesson through this process. It shouldn't matter how much the owner spends to ship a car down to you it has to be your way from the start vs thinking no matter how sound your point is they still might not decide to go that route. Thanks for watching and the fedback!

[@tedmatias1536]

Here’s another guy don’t know…. Have you ever had a classic car restored with this shop?

[@tedmatias1536]

He is a good salesman Video / pictures doesn’t mean anything till you get your car back.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@tedmatias1536 Not trying to be a salesmen, if anything this video was the opposite of a salesman. I was more trying to warn other what I already knew was the outcome and stuck in a situation where I should have sent the car back home with no quarters at all. Again I am sorry you are unhappy with the repair of this car. Also if you go back this Charger is such a quality car and it was brought back from a stage most wouldn't touch.

[@brdarley]

I don’t have to have a car done with this shop to know the work he is doing is quality. I’ve been doin sheet metal on cars for a while. Got three going right now. Dont be salty because you made poor decisions.

[@ty3095]

Thanks for another great video. It reminds me of a Saying my dad used , you could lead a horse to water but you Can't make him drink. From my perspective I would want nothing but the best quality parts. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming thanks.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot, I appreciate you watching!

[@rustymuscleman4028]

I am currently working on a 1969 superbee, as long as those quarter panels are, i would NEVER consider a skin. I bought AMD full quarters. They fit beautifully with minimum effort and adjustments. What a nightmare just to think about doing skins! You did a nice job, but those were terrible parts, in my early days working on those old girls, i made mistakes. My 1967 firebird "needed" a new radiator support, i figured it bolts in and isnt seen, so i bought the $100 cheapy. 😂 i could NOT line my fender to hood gap, put the gm support in, and things literally "fell" into place. I repaired the gm part.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@rustymuscleman4028 Thanks a lot for watching and the feedback. I agree with you on the parts 100% even with the bolt on parts. I have been also had a bad experience on front end sheet metal (69 firebird) and cheap fenders that all had to be cut and worked just to get the body lines working right. what a nightmare the whole process on that car. Good luck on your superbee project that is such a awesome car!

[@jasonhull5712]

I just stumbled across your channel. Wasn’t looking for anything in particular but I just wanted to take a moment to say I truly appreciate your craftsmanship. The level of passion you have and the attention to detail is incredible. You just don’t see this level of dedication and talent in this genre anymore. Now I’m just a fella on the internet but I’ve been in the car world my entire life and I can say with 100% confidence that you have a unique opportunity to make a name for yourself in this industry to the level comparable to some of the biggest names in the trade. You sir, are going to need a bigger shop, and to hire some help.. you will have work lined up out of the shop and around the corner. Your honesty and integrity speaks volumes. I wish you the very best and you have earned my subscription. Looking forward to seeing you grow.

[@carthageclassiccars]

THANK YOU so much that was so really nice to say of you and it means so much to me! A new shop is currently in the beginning stages of the works now and also the idea of I will also be hiring soon along with it. Trying to grow without losing the quality or that customer service aspect. Again thank you very much for the really kind words of encouragement.

[@copperheadaustraliatm.7603]

Great work Rick finally a tradesman that knows what he is talking about, excellent next level work from cheers down under.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot much appreciated and take care!

[@jayhilliard4365]

IMO, sounds like owner didnt want to spend money to buy qtrs. Big mistake and cost him more in long run going with 80% skins. Keep up the excellent work Rick.

[@teamidris]

Yep, the thing is you can actually buy the panels! So many historical cars mean a panel beater is making a new one from stock sheet. And that’s proper money :o) The owner is actually very lucky.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much. It was hard to put this video out for me especially since even more then the money, I feel the final outcome of the install was a lot worse then doing it the way that I suggested initally.

[@jayhilliard4365]

@@tedmatias1536 No. Based off my experience, what he shows in videos, the work appears to be done correctly.

[@michaelhallas6450]

The owner doesn’t after do all the prep on the metal work either. I like full Quarters if you can get them .

[@roonbooks3227]

If it were me doing the work, I would have told the owner...."no premium panels, take it elsewhere"

[@captretired159]

he's 100% right . I bought cheap replacement metal for my 57 bel air. the whole project was a disappointment every thing after the welding was problematic because of the bad foundation i was starting with. never again. in the long run your not saving a red cent, if anything your spending alot more to end up with a substandard finished product. 😢

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much for the feedback and the comment, hopefully you still got that 57, what a cool car for sure.

[@MicsMotorworx]

Another fantastic video. Congratulations again on your growth and thank you for sharing your bountiful knowledge and experience with us. It is such a great help for us humble hobbyists.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks for the feedback and you are welcome.

[@bennyguerra6539]

amazing work, you are on point!!!!!!!!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you!

[@ShadeTreeGeneralLee]

Man I loved this video. A lot of very good info you explain everything very well. Definitely subscribed and Will be watching more.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot I appreciate you commenting, watching and subscribing!

[@themillsvideos1556]

High quality work. High quality video. Next, I want MONSTER TRUCK!!!!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot and who doesn't like monster trucks great family fun!

[@themillsvideos1556]

What is not to like? I like them

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@themillsvideos1556 haha yea buddy so do it ;)

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@tedmatias1536 Sir I am sorry you are not pleased with the work in this video but please don't slander all my other business.

[@willconnor9712]

You could work on my car anytime! Your dedication to quality and and precision is top notch. Thank you

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot I really appreciate the compliment!

[@brianendlich2218]

beautiful tig welds!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you!

[@thruitallauto2538]

I can’t believe you took this job on

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes it was a lesson learned for the future.

[@thruitallauto2538]

@@carthageclassiccars well at the end I understand why ya did it

[@johnjunker1454]

I'm loving your content.i would like to see you do a widebody muscle car of some kind

[@carthageclassiccars]

Maybe some day someone would give me that chance to build one for them, if that happens I sure will post it.

[@67polara]

And there's a suble bodyline just above the wheel opening I often see rounded-off by a sander or something we're supposed to SEE that line though subtle.

[@carthageclassiccars]

yes you are correct, unfortunately a lot of times people lull out the da because its fast and easier but it really hurts the fine details in these cars.

[@jmendo2546]

Perfect video u talk through the whole video I feel Im at school watching it work's both way's for you and your costumer so u don't have to tell them or show them what and how u did thing's as a piece of mind.What kind of welding wire and size do u use on sheetmetal, I have a tough time burning through all the time. Well done, I'm glad I Subscribed to your channel A++

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot for subscribing and watching! I keep .026, .030, and .035 wire on hand all the time but honestly most of the time I am on .030. Saying that I rarely ever MIG external body panels and the .030 wire works perfect for my settings as in this video. If i was going to try this job where I tig welded .026 would be in the welder. Are you welding a straight run like I was trying in this TIG weld with no breaks? In my opinion you will always burn through as heat the longer you weld will build up and the MIG is just full power setting or none. As I TIG I am backing out of the power the longer I make the weld. I try small tacks when welding thin sheet metal and basically doing 3-4 at a time building off each other and moving on a inch down the run and preforming that same process again.

[@teamidris]

With the interior in . . . . that ozzy truck driver summed it up perfectly; “might as well do it the long way, it’ll take less time” (he was bogged down with a road train) :o) By the time you have oversprayed the head liner, started a fire, had to reach in and bodge some rust you might as well strip the area right out, you will save time. And I am the world expert because I always don’t do this :D And I always have to spend time fixing what was wasn’t broken :o

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes I agree, I also have set a carpet or two on fire in my day or messed up a window. I guess the best way to learn sometimes is doing stuff the wrong or hard way.

[@teamidris]

@@carthageclassiccars The local windscreen people took my windscreen out the other week on my 1991 Ford transit so I could weld up the frame and de-rust it generally. MIG Spark lit the battery up :o Luckily I didn’t loose any paint on the bonnet and battery was about stuffed. Exciting stuff :D

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@teamidriswow talk about coming out lucky all things considered

[@skipsims2384]

We’re puttin full qtr panels on the challenger brotha!

[@carthageclassiccars]

sounds like a plan!

[@davemcaferty6347]

Great video your shop rates are 60 per hour with thebwork you do you should charge more

[@carthageclassiccars]

its not 60 an hour that was more hypothetical to throw out numbers, but thanks

[@toddhendley67]

Thanks!

[@toddhendley67]

Nice to return from TDY and see you posted two videos. Thanks Rick. Keep the Mopars coming

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much for your contribution to the channel. It is greatly appreciated.

[@jimdrechsel3611]

Great video. You explain so well and I like the narration during the video. That is a much different way I have seen hanging quarters and I wonder if you thought of it yourself. There weren't full quarters available years ago. Mopar had to wait. Chevy always got everything first and was cheaper. I guess the owner just didn't want to buy new ones. The older patch panels over 20 years ago had thicker metal. The AMD full quarters I have need to be worked but at least I don't have to weld a long seam. I'm selling the new AMD fenders I bought because they don't fit well and are thinner than original. The fender bolt holes don't line up like the original correctly so I am fixing the original ones. I will measure the AMD fender thickness but I am pretty confident my AMD fenders are thinner than original. Maybe I have a bad production date. What red etch primer is that you use? I have to watch how you use it in more videos. Unfortunately I don't have a TIG option on my MIG machine. So if I wanted to contact you for a future project how would I do so?

[@carthageclassiccars]

So with hanging the quarters I ran across someone doing something similar on a different application and modified it to this scenario so I can't take full credit. You are correct from the start when this car arrived the owner told me he would buy them if these were going to be a big hassle, but when the time came he changed his mind on his thinking I would be stuck doing it this way once the car was cut up. With your fenders they are hit or miss. I run across some aftermarket ones that do fit great and others that are just off, even in the same AMD manufacture. I have never tried chargers but actually last week I put an aftermarket fender on a cuda and the stamping was just off. Put the factory one back on and fit perfect. So just like you are doing I also used the new fender as patches that I TIG welded and blended to fix the original fender and I am happy I went this route. The red primer is the OER self etching oxide primer. I only use it for covering up bare metal temporarily. The reason this is red is that they were running a sale on the red. I will use this in spots where I can take laquer thinner and wipe it off before I get around with epoxy. In areas I want the paint to stick permantly I will use a VHT epoxy coat or if I can at all time a true epoxy primer. Thanks a lot for the comment and watching the video you can always link up with my at [e-mail]

[@midnighttutor]

Also for what it is worth: I recently picked up one of those tig buttons and it works great. Can now thankfully throw away that annoying foot pedal. Wish I would have known about it 2 years ago.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Actually I do use my trigger button at times mostly for tacking but I am a fan of the foot pedal. I personally like the control it gives and feel I have a lot better control with my foot.

[@midnighttutor]

The Tig Button I am referencing is pressure sensitive -- it goes from zero to 100 percent depending on how hard you press, just like the pedal.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@midnighttutor oh interesting I will look into one of those that does sound very useful, thanks.

[@eduardorivera2460]

You're all total bad asses!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you!

[@midnighttutor]

Great presentation! I am just curious how you handle the heat from TIG when you have already sprayed epoxy primer on the inside of the panels. Do you leave a strip of bare metal? If so how thick? Do you go back and spray those areas on the inside after the welding? I always end up smelling burnt paint and then try to jam some more primer into the backside after TIG but there must be a better way. Thank you.

[@carthageclassiccars]

I do tape up about an inch on the edges and add weld through primer to the backside of those areas. Its not ideal but realistically it will be very hard to access those areas and get primer everywhere so we do the best we can. The weld through primer will withstand the heat and stay sticking a lot better most of the time just turning brown.

[@RoddyDa]

There are some other KZbin channels and I’m sure some shops spreading the fear of going the full quarter replacement route. I’ve watched one channel say not to do it because you will never get the door and striker to line up as good as original. If you’re good at what you do then this shouldn’t be a concern…and if your using quality replacements!

[@carthageclassiccars]

So I understand on what you are saying and even to a point what that other shop was trying to make. If not building on a frame JIG removing a full quarter and not bracing properly there is always chances the car could sag or move structurally and then yes you might fight a full quarter install. As far as how I usually operate I have never had a major issue with aligning stuff up just some pulling and prying here and there but still a lot closer then this stamping was. Thanks for the feedback!

[@roycebrown3447]

I too bought the fool's gold! I bought AMD skins for my 69 Coronet and I can't complain about the skins themselves. They are great quality. I cut about where you cut and had to do that long weld. I used a mig with a butt weld and took my time. It's a marathon! I warped the driver's side just grinding the welds down. Then all the body work on top of it. Someone needs to show a video of how much sanding it actually takes to make these straight. I'll never do skins again for a full side like that.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you for the feedback and watching. You are 100% right on grinding can warp the metal. I was showing a buddy how to make a cowl hood a while back and he got everything perfect until the grinding phase where he I guess was just so tired of it all and warped it. Sometimes the only way to properly learn is do the job the hard way and mess up along the way.

[@brianwatson5844]

i had skins on my 69 roadrunner & they sucked,i removed them & installed full AMD quarters & they sucked just as much or worse,around the taillight is terrible,around the back glass area they are way to high,gonna have to split alot..i have messaged you about trying to fix them,just not sure if im up for the drive yet & i know your backed up with work too..If i had it to do over again, id go with skins & keep the factory edge at doors & taillight panel

[@carthageclassiccars]

I guess my opinion is if your going to patch in panels I would still buy a full quarter as a doner as the stamping is usually a little better quality vs the skins.

[@colescrustycars]

Yes i learned that the hard way. I have a 68 nova that i had goodmark quarter skins, deck filler, tail panel, trunk panel kits put on like 18 years ago. Dont get me wrong, AMD stuff wasnt around back then. I was so unhappy with it i pulled the car home before it was finished and its still sitting in my back yard. From now on... full quarters, and full trunk floor/floor pans is the only way to go. Your not too far from me. I keep telling myself im gonna learn to do it myself but maybe i should just let you fix it right!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes i understand working with parts that were a lot worse years ago for sure. I will say I have installed quarters on a 70 Nova and done it on this channel and they fit really well if you want to check it out later there is a whole build on that car. It may help you out if you decide to go that route or at least give you some motivation. Thanks for the feedback

[@colescrustycars]

@@carthageclassiccars yes sir that's how I found your channel. My car was also a old race car but quite a bit better shape then that one when I started. Maybe not now tho haha. I'd be curious some more info. Hourly rate etc. Just call your number on your page?

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@colescrustycars send me an email to [e-mail] and I can send you more info.

[@hickeyskustomresto]

I mainly use the 80%'ers (skins) as cut up patch panels, they often don't fit great.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes I agree lower maybe 1/3 or corner patches that is probably the only use for them if the option for full quarter is there.

[@hickeyskustomresto]

@@carthageclassiccars your work is excellent. I just watched your video from 3 months ago cutting a 69 firebird fender up to make it fit. Outstanding! The sport satellite in my pic had AMD 80% quarters supplied and installed incorrectly, the project then stalled for years until it finally made it to me. I did a few videos on correcting it, a few ppl didn't like the idea of cutting it up, but both the Pilar edge and rear had to be cut and spliced to all fit up. I just had to look at it and think about it for awhile. I was lucky enough to have access to another car to double check fitment and compare the 2. Again, great video. Thanks for sharing 👍

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@hickeyskustomresto Thank you very much. Awesome to hear you got that satellite fixed up. Its the little things like that in my opinion that separate the really nice builds vs just throwing something together and calling it good enough.

[@mightymikethebear]

The quality of materials directly affects the final outcome on any project. Would you build a house with cracked or oddly shaped bricks?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks for watching I couldn't have though of a better analogy 100% agree.

[@randydanger7992]

Is the thinking to preserve as much original sheet metal as possible? Is there any other justification for going this route?

[@carthageclassiccars]

I have been trying to figure the reasoning behind this decision for months now. I have thought about the original sheet metal idea, but when you look at the rest of the car there isn't really too much left of the original to justify that point. Maybe some people just like things their way and to make their own decisions no matter the cost.

[@LukesGarage]

On the lower corner pieces, I was always told they don’t get welded to either the fender or valance. Factory had a gap in them. Is that correct. Mine aren’t welded but body guy used filler.

[@carthageclassiccars]

They are welded behind on the tabs I believe, but the seams themselves are not welded and seam sealer is added

[@bcwoods360]

IS it always necessary to remove the coating on replacement panels? DO they provide any protection? I was thinking like on interior pieces where they are not usually exposed you can leave it alone.

[@carthageclassiccars]

I am not sure if you watched the entire video but I tried to cover it on this project. These panels came with rust and imperfections on the inside so the coating was removed and epoxy was added which is a lot more durable then the E coat. On the outside to metal work a panel I need to remove the coating to find the high and low spots. I would say on the inside of a panel if it is in good shape I would leave the factory E coating alone, but as far as the outside of the car I always strip them down as all the bodywork time that goes into them I don't trust it unless I do everything from the bare metal.

[@stevenpringle7813]

When you are welding a continuous bead and not moving around, what is stopping too much heat buildup and warping? Thanks.

[@carthageclassiccars]

The process on TIG welding and MIG is completely different, even jumping around on a MIG will warp the metal and put waves in the panel. With the TI I am controlling the heat input amps on the foot pedal dialing it in so it gets better penetration without blowing out. After the panel warps or shrinks from the heat you can planish it out a lot easier compared to the MIG tac tac process.

[@Novarider72]

Really, in short, it's better to go with the AMD full quarter panel. The metal is a lot better, and like you said, if you use a cheaper quarter panel like a good mark or Sherman. You are gonna spend more time with welding it on because of the heat in a cheaper panel tends to want to warp more and really at the end of the day the with an Amd full quarter the job will be just better !!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes that is a great summary of the video! Thanks for watching.

[@Novarider72]

Right now, I'm in process of welding in a lower driver's side quarter panel. On a 72nova the passenger side. I did a full AMD quarter panel and the metal is way better. I ordered a driver's side quarter skin from summit racing, anyhow like l said in welding in only the lower section of the rocker and wheel arch also the rear section of the wheel arch l didn't like how thin the quarter skin felt compared to the amd panel .so l only used the lower section of the quarter. The upper part of my factory quarter was still good. But l will say this ,but at the end of the day, I still have a bunch of time in a repaired quarter . I know it would of been better to replace the full quarter. less work to do when just doing plug welds .stitch welding takes alot more time to complete also more of a chance in warping the two panels.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@Novarider72 I will say best way to know for sure is try different routes. Good luck with your Nova build!

[@Novarider72]

Thank you for your kind words God-bless

[@Johntweety007]

I wouldn’t warranty the sloppy panels and give owner option to replace because he would save money 😅

[@carthageclassiccars]

haha yes you never know maybe Ill get a chance to install the right quarter panels on this car.

[@raymondcampbell6984]

Fully Qtrs only be much easier

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes I agree

[@Supanova70]

I always say pay now or pay later.... Question on a nova rocker that was patch repaired has tiney holes in weld. Car is in epoxy now can i scuff and go over with kitty hair or rage.? Do you think kitty hair will hold up better in that location then rage over to finish repair. ALso 320 on a long block to find high and lows over cured epoxy as well?

[@carthageclassiccars]

I would 100% for sure start with the kitty hair as it will be more durable with backing holes rage won't withstand moisture from the backside. After you get the kitty hair smooth then you can finish out with Rage. The 320 on the epoxy might be a little fine and chew up the paper I would go 220 to start out but read the TDS of the product your using to topcoat the lows because that is the grit it will need to adhere to the surface.

[@Supanova70]

@@carthageclassiccars tamco 662 epoxy

[@baldheadjamaican2551]

Nothing wrong with skins especially if ur on budget restoring a car

[@carthageclassiccars]

Not sure if you watched the entire video but at the end I showed when a shop usually does skins especially with the car gutted they ended up costing more then a full quarter job. So the misconception of skins being the cheaper route is NOT the case most of the time.

[@baldheadjamaican2551]

​@carthageclassiccars I agree. If you're doing ur own bodywork skins work but if u got deep pockets to put ur car into a body shop then full quarters are the way to go.

[@buffdoc46]

I've restored Vintage 50's Gibson guitars, at first I wanted to save as much of the original body, paint, or parts as much as possible. It ended up being the worst decision. I think the owner of this car is thinking of saving as much as possible of the original body. It's a great feel good situation, but its definitely not the best situation for the amount of work or result. No way, it's easy to get perfect bodylines.

[@carthageclassiccars]

I think you might be correct I doubt we will even know for sure the main reason.

[@JTGTX70]

It's unfortunate AMD stopped making skins. They were much better quality. Personally I prefer to save as much original metal as possible.

[@carthageclassiccars]

I agree with you on the right project, I think with this one it was so far gone from the start just replacing most of the metal is not going to hurt the value.

[@JTGTX70]

@carthageclassiccars Agreed. The upper quarter had too many issues especially around the usual rear window. This one should have had full quarters. Keep up the great work! Love the content.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@JTGTX70 Thanks a lot for the support!

[@Martincustomdesign]

I been doing this 40 years young man and still at it its all no good we just have to make do with it . We restore America cars with foreign junk .

[@carthageclassiccars]

We do have to deal with it but like you said what's the alternative.

[@oacumulador]

"Expensive is the cheap that doesn't work"

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes 100% right!

[@kobra_style]

Amazing work. I am restoring a 61 impala and they don't make full quarters for it, only a few patch panels. I wish someone would make full panels for it.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you yes I agree the Impalas are challenging. I hope someone picks up the aftermarket a little more on them as they are really amazing cars. Good luck on your build.

[@blakbanshee]

What’s the machine at 3:40?

[@carthageclassiccars]

That is a shrinker. Really cool tool to do compound curves on window channels. They also make a stretcher that works the metal in the opposite way.

[@MH-on8ol]

So do ya think the customer appreciates publicly hearing his builder talking smack about his quarter vs skin choice. I also am a body tech and sometimes the customer is just set in their thinking. They pay the bill and I always show them the respect they deserve even if I disagree. Nobody wants to watch their build and feel ridiculed by the content or comments. You do nice metalwork.

[@carthageclassiccars]

First thank you very much for the compliment but I do respectfully disagree with you on the video. The owner knew this car would have been in a multiple video build series showing the proper way to build a Charger and his decision and agreement was changed at this point to go a different route with the build. I am firm and upfront about my build process as its all over this channel. I feel this video considering the whole circumstance showed respect and even in this video no vin on the car was given, no owners personal info was given. Once the car is painted no one will ever know it from another 69 charger. Also I said mostly facts on why such a bad decision was made, this is to help educate others on why they should make the right choice. Also I don't let the customer dictate the process or quality of work I do because you never hear the shops side of the story once the car leaves the shop. When others see a hack job owner will usually say well I don't know just what the shop did. So If I ask your shop to bondo quarters on a car not even welding them at all and I pay my bills your shop will go ahead and do that process because I am set in my thinking?

[@MH-on8ol]

Well the extreme example of using polyester filler to attach a quarter then no. I might suggest 8115 as a more realistic bonding adhesive. Its your channel, and absolutely your viewer base. I generally like my repeat customers and do my best to respectfully educate them and at times let them make bad decisions with their money and projects. I recognize the delicacy of some egos and at times find less is more.

[@hardtail-gy8dk]

I think he mentioned that he tried to sway the owner into full quarters, for whatever reason more of the original car was retained, parts were supplied and it was economics we won't know but those panels are 50% thinner than original or other replacement pieces and much more challenging to work with where that seam occurs, the education discussion relies on owner trusting shops expertise

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@hardtail-gy8dk Thank you 100% you understood the intent of the video, not to bash anyone but when you send your vehicle to a shop there needs to be trust especially when making decisions based on the outcome. I have just as much desire to make these cars the best they can as the owners and honestly I want them to be happy with everything as that leads to return customers or referrals.

[@rc-ingaroundamerica8792]

Hell, my 68s worse off then this one n im goin full quarters, package tray filler, gutters, floors, lol not much is going to be left of the orginal unfortunately

[@carthageclassiccars]

I think that's the best way to build them, everything new and done right. Good luck on your build!

[@RichardHeadGaming]

Even if the guy did not say it, you can not return panels you have had for 5 years +. So to put full quarters on he would have had to eat the original partials he purchased.

[@carthageclassiccars]

I think you missed the main message in the entire video. So the owner paid me more in EXTRA labor then the brand new Full quarter panels would have cost. So yea the old skins would have been wasted, however the final product would have been a lot better and the job even with throwing the skins away would have cost him less at my shop.

[@RichardHeadGaming]

@@carthageclassiccars I fully understand, was making the comment he does not only seeing the cost of fulls vs what he had.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@RichardHeadGaming ah ok I misunderstood your comment yes you are right probably not seeing the big picture

[@teamidris]

1.22mm. I mean, that’s good old thick car metal spec. And let’s face the truth here, if you want crisp perfect shut gaps a 2mm low carbon steel would take you anywhere you wanted to go :o) * Cheap modern thin high carbon steel is like wrestling tin foil that just melts under the mig. I hate it. Tonka toys were better made than modern cars.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks for watching and also great points I agree with what you stated!

[@teamidris]

@@tedmatias1536 who me? Wow, I can’t imagine having enough money to pay someone to do work for me. That would be neat. :o) There’s stuff on my channel with me metal working. Necessity and all that :D

[@tonykerr8147]

What I like about using the that pro spotter welder that the two panels that you're putting together you can leave all the ecode or sealer there between the panels and weld like the factory. Glad to see you're using that pro spot as much as possible you will not beat that weld. I wish More restoration shop wood use this pro spotter looks more factory and more professional

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot and you are 100% right the spot welder is a game changer and really ups the quality of the builds. Honestly its a lot easier on the builder also. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@tonykerr8147]

@@carthageclassiccars been using that pro spotter for years on the collision side automotive and trucks. When I sent messages to some of these other restoration shops . Are absolutely huge I tell them that they're still not doing it correctly because they're not putting factory spot welds in. Use that pro spotter absolutely as much as you can everywhere you can. By the way I'm 66 years old retired but I still work full time. Automotive and truck. The better to detail pictures are for your customers vehicles the more respect you will get.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@tonykerr8147 thanks for the advice will do