Quick Tip: Where Should I Use Loctite on my AR-15?

[@nicholaswilson7734]

Why use loctite when you can just cross thread the nut?

[@charlierich9840]

Haha yeah that was good. Well done. I couldn't think of a better way to say - Oh man.. You all are slowwww sloww wondering about this shit. What can you fix if you need this video... It's true.

[@POGLIFE713]

Permanently installed with permanent problems🤣

[@arod919721]

always spot weld for extra protection

[@G-Revbw]

Remember, a cross threaded bolt is a tight bolt!

[@capt.mike73ahoy14]

HA! Good one! Do not quit day job.

[@freeze1305]

I use red loctite on everything. That way I have a reason to buy a whole new rifle.

[@CalebSavant]

Cant argue with that logic!

[@nickallen8333]

I use blue and just buy the new rifle.

[@cool_hand_robb4486]

😅😅

[@bernardomontell873]

I like the way you think 🤔

[@1014p]

Well then just go to green loktite.

[@jonolsen2510]

I only use a drop of blue loctite on my optic mounting screws

[@peaceprayer595]

The handguard nuts and bolts are a good place too.

[@billyfreeman5803]

@@peaceprayer595 and MLOK/Keymod accessories.

[@VndNvwYvvSvv]

@@billyfreeman5803 MLOK bolts should come with it pre-applied, but yes. It doesn't hurt.

[@milspecmike8440]

I use vibra-tite on optics screws, have had blue loctite break apart.

[@kwad3d10]

Here is a Locktite Pro Tip. For a easy release when removing locktited hardware use a soldering gun to heat the screw/bolt and it can be removed like no locktite was used at all. Even works with Red locktite.

[@caboose1289]

One place Loctite is really useful is on the handguard screws. I had a brand new Aero M5E1 AR10 that I built with everything torqued down to spec, was in the process of sighting it in, and I kept losing my zero. I eventually realized that the handguard screws had come loose due to the recoil vibrations. I put some blue Loctite on the screws and never had another issue.

[@usernamunavailiable]

Mike Van I had this same issue with my Daniel Defense rifle.

[@john-paulsilke893]

That and sight systems attached but otherwise I don’t use it.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

my BCM handguard came with locktite for the barrel clamp screws

[@thelonepainter4760]

Man. Can you give me some advice please, on how to keep my rail guard from turning loose. I have an m lok rail guard. Every time I shoot it it ends up moving.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

@@thelonepainter4760 what rail do you have

[@grunt167]

I'll use blue to better hold optic mounts on my AR but other than that I use Rocksett only on my muzzle device.

[@kris1931]

I use locktite on optics mounts only. I use purple, because I've stripped out a few fasteners with even blue. I use rockset on muzzle devices and gas block set screws.

[@MRALIGHTNER]

I was in the U.S Army, My mos was 45b (small arms repairer). We never used lock tight when I was in. Torque the parts is all you need. Buy a cheap leaf spring torque wrench and you're good to go.

[@Freeeeeeeedoooooooom]

Thank you for sharing that. No armorer in the Marine Corps ever used lock tight while I was in either. The shooting world gets more and more nutty as time goes on.

[@jonduncansakurawallknifegarden]

Thank you all for your service.

[@tomnelson9545]

I was a 45b also when we used M16A1s. No loctite then.

[@Sparks68]

During 21 years, none of the unit armorers under my command ever used Loctite in any color on any of my unit's small arms - and we had M1911A1s that had seen both Korea and Vietnam, M16A1s that had seen all of Vietnam, as well as M60's and M2s that had also seen Vietnam in its entirety. Never needed it. Proper torque does the job. Dealing with worn threads used other methods to replace and rework parts, but no Loctite of any kind. Thanks for keeping our bang sticks working!

[@patthegunsmith]

I have never used Loctite on any AR assemble parts. I DO use anti-seize compound on the barrel nut threads for the same reason I use anti-seize on the threads of my spark plugs for my motorcycle, steel threads in aluminum.

[@RCFlyBoy314]

Aeroshell 64 has and additive that works like anti-sieze

[@watchalotta1]

I always have use a high temperature grease on the barrel nut.

[@patthegunsmith]

@@RCFlyBoy314 The only thing I would allow for when using something like Aeroshell 64 or similar libricants is just that, it IS a lubricant and will affect torque values and compression of the aluminium threads as opposed to an anti seize compound. It is made for things that rotate as opposed to things that tighten. Having said that there is an ENORMOUS amount of discussion about torquing the barrel nut and it can really get over done.

[@RCFlyBoy314]

@@patthegunsmith I'm not saying that the military way is the best way.... But that IS the spec and use of 33MS for the rifle. I believe the process is also for it to be wet-torqued.

[@patthegunsmith]

RCFlyBoy314 I’m not disagreeing at all. When I did Colt warranty work they didn’t specify any. That was during the later ‘80s and early’90s. I would think the mil spec changed through the years. When we’re you doing that work?

[@MerpSquirrel]

I actually have used a little bit of anti-cease on the barrel nut as recommended from Steve in his 2016 tip video. No locktight. Only had my muzzle device come loose once, and added a copper crush washer from my automotive parts and problem solve, no lock tight, and better indexing of the brake. Also gave a cool copper accent to the barrel.

[@leanit5756]

Are going to ignore LocTite 222 MS (Minimum Strength) (Purple)? It is my favorite for optics screws and anything attached to the hand guard. I learned my lesson long ago to not use Blue (242/243) on small screws despite what some accessory manufacturers recommend. Easy to end up twisting the head right off a small screw. But never had a problem with Purple/MS on small hardware... that is what it is designed for, fasteners 1/4" and under, including for aluminum. Henkel, the manufacturer of Loctite, states that 242/243 (medium) is intended for fasteners 1/4" / 6mm in diameter or larger (up to 20mm).... not many gun screws in that range.

[@mart2224]

I love that they responded to that last video regarding Loctite. There were far too many people professing that it was a replacement for staking a castle nut, and a few of us chimed in to say DON'T EVER DO THAT. Thanks Brownells for the follow up!

[@CalebSavant]

Yes! That was the exact reason for this video. It was mind blowing, the amount of misinformation regarding locktite.

[@brownells]

Thanks for acknowledging that! We DO listen to you all!

[@mart2224]

@@brownells you guys rock... Love this series and keep them coming!

[@inyourdefense0]

As an aircraft technician, I REALLY appreciate your technical explanations.

[@Jeff-gu6nb]

As a couch potato I also appreciate their explanation

[@thegunmaven3107]

Great rundown and points about proper torque. Just to add, JP Enterprises MK III hand guard installation requires Loctite 271 for the bbl nut, once aligned for gas tube. After setting overnight, the bbl is inserted, followed by bbl retainer nut, which is torqued. It works and looks great!

[@AlienHazard]

I find these Brownell videos so interesting. I never used loctite on my AR-15s but found this to be very informative.

[@brownells]

Thanks for watching!

[@PaulSteMarie]

The problem with "red" and "blue" Loctite is that there's multiple versions of each, plus purple and green. In particular, there are varieties of "red" Loctite that are more temperature resistant. Don't know if they go all the way to 1300°, but there is a range.

[@Five0fiddy]

they go to 450 degree F max.

[@hazcat640]

Dang! Two in a row with the un-synchronized coffee! I'm devastated. ;)

[@doug6198]

I did mine right . But great to see I thought about disassembling to add loctite glad I didn’t. This helps now I know not to tear apart and for future builds.

[@irchrisb]

Good stuff guys. I'm new to AR ownership, so this really helps a lot.

[@brownells]

Thanks for watching!

[@jakegarrett8109]

I don’t even have one of these, I just stay for the chaos and bickering, it’s like a bunch of car guys arguing, haha!

[@jakegarrett8109]

@@melvinhawkins9208 exactly, that’s why assault cars are protected by the 2A, just like horses were for cavalry and ships for battleships.

[@autumnfragrance7185]

You can use low strength loctite 222 on the bolt release thread screw found on some billeted upper receivers... nowadays, even some forged uppers use this screw. You can use medium strength (blue) loctite (242 or 243) on handguard rail accessories. 243 provides better oil resistance. Medium strength loctite can also be used on the screws found on some trigger guards. You can use Loctite 246 or Permatex red on gas block screws. You can use Rocksett on a muzzle device.

[@wormraper]

THANK YOU!!! so many newbies try loctite and it makes me wince. I had a guy who red loctited his castle nut and it was BEOTCH to get off. Especially because the owner who I had to help replace that tube was the 2nd owner and didn't realize that the 1st owner used red loctite AND staked it. So you can be assured we replaced that damn tube afterwards. the ONLY place I would consider it a "ok, I wouldn't do it except when I was a newb, but it's not gonna kill it" is a little blue loctite on the pistol grip screw. It's not gonna cause an issue there as long as you don't red loctite it. It's not in any way needed, but if you did that on a build I wouln't start ripping your hair out and thinking you ruined your lower (if you red loctited it...welllllllllllllllll lol)

[@alexsachse]

Agree with everything said. I never use Loctite on anything that attaches to any of the receivers from the front (barrel) or the back (extension tube). The one exception to what was discussed that I make is the grip. I use blue Loctite there. I also use blue Loctite when attaching accessories to the receiver such as lights, scope rings, foregrips, or secondary sights. I also use blue Loctite for the scope mount screws that hold the actual scope in place. I find that all these accessories have a tendency to come lose after prolonged use.

[@mikecollins8241]

I have a bunch of old (1920's -1960's) gunsmithing books, all they used back then was powdered rosin.. works on everything, and the big jar of it I bought (from Brownells $10?) a decade ago will last me the rest of my life 😊

[@asillycryptid7235]

I made the mistake of putting loctite on my castle nut after seeing someone have a pretty serious malfunction after their nut backed out. I paid for my paranoia later on when I mangled the buffer tube a bit trying to clean it up, now I just use the ratcheting castle nut and end plate combo from Primary Weapon Systems. Works great!

[@cyclepath55555]

Yup, not sure why the ratcheting castle nut isn't used exclusively now....

[@TacticalBuffoonary]

I use red loctite on my gas block screws they never loosen up and the loctite doesn’t turn to powder, this is after 1000’s of rounds. I take my guns apart to see how well they are holding up since all 16 of my ARs are home assembled. I always have a hard time getting the gas block screws out and even broke a bit doing so. I usually have to heat them up as mentioned. You can do whatever works for you but loctite on the gas block screws works for me.

[@drivergoodwin6948]

The one place loctite should be used is on MLOK accessories on your serious "fighting gun" Once you've got it set up the exact way you want it, you better make sure you loctite all your MLOK screws cuz that shit *will* come loose with heavy use and you do *not* want shit coming off your rifle in the middle of a situation.

[@rtek777]

But definitely use it on your acceories because even proper torque is the enough to keep those tiny screws from walking out. First time shooting after my first build, I had an accessories yard sale after several mags in. Domt even use locktite either, I use VC-3 Vibra-tite.

[@gwman90]

Some great info in these videos, but also some info that contradicts what a lot of other long time industry professionals and manufacturers would advise. Also a lot of generalizations and anecdotal information that might not apply to everyone. "I run all mine dry and I've never had one come loose." is the same as someone else saying "I use Loctite on all my castle nuts and I've never messed up threads on a receiver extension."

[@dennismullen7332]

As a customer I enjoy watching you guys and I’ve learned a lot from you too thank you

[@brownells]

Thank you!

[@toycoma98]

I only put blue thread locker on iron sights and red dot screws.

[@briancooke5532]

I know this video is 4 years old now, but thank you, this answered a lot of my questions that I had.

[@cfh13]

The barrel for an AR9 I finished building a few months ago came with red loctite. It said to use it for the barrel nut as well as the screws for the handguard. I was like "yeah, nah. I want to be able to remove it for cleaning/maintenance without torching it". I did use blue loctite on the screws for my AR15s scope. It's THE scope I want on it and will not be switching it out.

[@rfreitas3298]

Steel and aluminum you can use low strength Loctite 222. I've been using for years, it is easy to remove, it will seal the thread preventing corrosion and vibration loosening. Rule of thumb: application on three threads of your bolt are enough to keep it tight.

[@drice847]

Loctite also make a thread-locker that is purple, 222MS made for small screws 1/4" and smaller that is removable with hand tools if your afraid the blue would be too hard to remove.

[@2fathomsdeeper]

I ran with blue loctite on the castle nut when my wrench wouldn't fit the pistol tube, and when you get a hard back plate that won't stake properly. A1's and A2's were OK'd to use blue on the ported buttstock screw, and new screws changed from nylon insert to blue loctite.

[@jesse5167]

I used a high heat anti-sieze for my barrel nut and castle nut. I saw in a Criterion Barrels video that they use Loctite 609 (not regular loctite) on their barrel extensions. It supposedly aids in the fitment of cylindrical parts. When I get around to a barrel swap I will likely do this.

[@capt.mike73ahoy14]

Another good tutorial by the Brownell guys. I do use blue on optical sights mounted on an AR, sparingly!

[@HighFiveGuy13]

Cool video! I’ve always been taught to apply a small amount of blue loctite to the castle nut. I never paid attention to how soft this aluminum is. Really something to think about.

[@TheOpheliaPainn]

Agreed. Except for the barrel extension. Loctite 620 (NOT THREAD LOCKER) gets liberally applied to the outer surface, however i only do that on medium and long range intended builds. It's not supposed to be permanent, but i wouldn't do it if you intend on fooling with it after.

[@Seals-jv3fd]

I learn something new everyday from Brownells. It's incredible how much i have learnt about my AR just by watching your daily videos. Great work guys and thank you.

[@jeffcergnul1831]

So I am about to build my Grendel so I watch everything I can find. One Vid told me to use loctite LB 8008 on the barrel nut because the parts are both steel and you dont want them to weld together with the intense heat of the barrel. I am glad I watched this BEFORE I put it together. Not my normal, I usually #%@$ it up, THEN read what I should have. Thanks!

[@TheLordNugget]

You want to put grease on the threads to keep them from seizing.

[@johnfowler6189]

Interesting, I've always used a copper based anti seize on muzzle devices . The anti seize will also allow you to attain proper torque spec and avoid damage to barrel nut and upper receiver. Never had a muzzle device come loose.

[@Bshwag]

I do locktite my barrel nut but only a small drop about as much as you might put on a small screw never had a problem. I also use a small amount to fill the space between the barrel and receiver so once it dries there is no wiggle between them, and that is a retaining compound that can be cleaned off pretty easily after removal.

[@POGLIFE713]

Use a tiny bit of antiseize on buffer tube/castlenut threads. Between aluminum and steel, steel always wins.

[@YotaDaryl]

I like the no nonsense approach of these videos.

[@jhalscott]

Rocksett on muzzle devices that use shims. Blue Loctite on handguard screws and optics mount screws.

[@miker1568]

The residue found on new screws is called patchlock

[@MJA5]

The plastic tips on shoelaces are called aglets.

[@H.R.6688]

The only time I've used loctite was on the outside of the barrel nut so my handguard would stop slipping off. ( one of those held on with clamping force.)

[@CalebSavant]

Yeah, like the older generation Midwest Industries. Fortunately the newer models are designed not to need that.

[@H.R.6688]

@@CalebSavant I believe that is what mine is, it came on a complete upper from psa. A few years ago.

[@danb48190]

I use a touch of blue loctite in my aero receivers' threaded pins. That's it. If I need to remove them, I could always break the bond with a drop of acetone but they break free pretty readily without it.

[@anthonykeller2760]

On my muzzle devices or suppressor adapters I use silver antiseize so I can easily remove them during cleaning. I have never used rockset or locktite and with the barrel in a barrel vise and proper torque I have never had one work loose.

[@Mihogan]

Interesting argument. I've "owend" Loctite for years and constantly find it to be not strong enough... I don't use loctite on my AR, not because it's too hard to remove, but because it's too easy and doesn't work well! I used Loctite RED on my rear view mirror in my car because it kept coming loose. Month later, loosened up and I removed by hand without heat!!

[@supergyi]

Could you do an episode on pro’s & con’s/myth vs facts about anti walk trigger/safety pins? Thanks

[@brownells]

Good suggestion!

[@mikedemello7177]

I put the anti walking pins in and used blue lock tight for the screws

[@tylerlondon5052]

The pins are supposed to rotate due to metal wear and galling.

[@watchalotta1]

I always use blue Loctite on BUIS, optics and optic mounts, and steel screws into steel mounts of the handguard.

[@vbayer2658]

you guys are great, informative ,right to the point with logic and reason , and i feel you found that perfect balance with begginers and seasoned gun owners on your video topics

[@cammacgregor9354]

Wondering why someone would stake the castle nut if their usual post-shooting maintenance program involves checking for loose fasteners?

[@CalebSavant]

If it comes loose while shooting and the receiver extension rotates, checking after isn't going to help you find the rear takedown pin detent and spring at the range.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Castle nuts don't come loose unless you NEED them to not come loose. Proper assembly means you don't need to check for loose fasteners afterward. I torque stripe mine all the same though.

[@MR619Can]

will add one more area only - for ambi-selectors like a Colt M4/Colt Canada C8, a small dab of blue loctite on retaining screw for the right side selector is important. otherwise - not part of the AR but on it, is blue loctite on attachments like lights and sights and non-throw lever optics....as they will come loose when least expected. I have seen many surefire M600's come loose even when the thumbscrew was tightened with noticeable force using a screwdriver. and just to add - a little thread lock goes a long way...I prefer the sticks vs the liquid.

[@2A.Freedom]

It seems counterintuitive to use loctite in most places along the bore axis. I use never-seize, especially on the barrel fitting, barrel nut, muzzle device, and buffer tube. The places I use blue loctite are the handguard screws and a dab on the grip screw and the bolt catch pin screw (if it's threaded).

[@prenticegoodwin3522]

I use a drop or 2 or blue loctight on my ARs and never had an issue. I have assembled a hand full of ARs, I have no delusion that I am gun smith because of it but It hasn’t caused me any problems.

[@DJTheMetalheadMercenary]

There are other compounds that can be used to safely retain/ secure components-- there's a transparent orange compound (forget what it's called) that's safe for mixed metal connection points and threadings alongside polymer and metal screw connections, but proper torque is always the first and foremost thing you should do for proper retaining, an appropriate compound (and an appropriate amount applied) should only be used if things keep vibrating loose or get knocked loose and won't stay tight, and you don't want to over-tighten and damage threading components like the handle/ grip retainer screw or stake the castle nut. And about the statement "if it was needed the military would do it"-- actually, from time to time they do utilize thread locking compound, especially due to how worn our weapon systems can get with certain components. Our Armorers have to be adaptive (especially on deployment) when replacement/ new parts aren't readily available or take forever to come in after the order request has been submitted and the weapon systems have be kept in the fight. I'm glad to see the Brownells crew are actually reading the comments!

[@kingbaldwiniv5409]

Thank you, that's a subject I have heard VERY different outlooks regarding.

[@PMCKoala]

I use a little blue loctite on my light, foregrip, and a tad on the optic. Only things that might take a beating as extremities. Torqued to spec of course.

[@kentuckyboy541]

Interesting. I've just always been of the school of thought that blue doesn't hurt anything.

[@CalebSavant]

Unfortunately it certainly can.

[@MonkeyWrenching]

That’s not a good school to attend.

[@usernamunavailiable]

Caleb Savant especially when they use too much.

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

ive used reusable blue lock tight on something & ended up destroying a specialized tool to try to get it off, "try"

[@hotdogs1026]

Blue loctite loosens with heat, acetone or methylene chloride solvent (just a drop or two will seep in via capillary action) I'd rather not stake my castle nut.

[@SamFisher1957]

I use blue loctite on small parts I don't want coming loose like optics mounts, iron sights, flashlight mount, grips, ambi safety,etc. For uses on a rifle only if it's called for it.

[@uncletom-e4461]

I sometimes use Blue LocTite on one side of trigger/hammer pins (depending on how loose they feel). While it's not necessary every time, tolerance slop occasionally dictates it's use...!!!

[@deplorabledave1048]

If a faster is small enough even Blue Loctite can hold it so the head strips off. Particularly small button head fasteners. I use my heat gun set on medium. Works like a champ.

[@xiocian]

Only time I've used loctite(blue) on an ar was for optic mount screws. I could probably use something else but I feel some extra security with locking the threads down a little bit to keep the optic solid in place.

[@ReubenOaks84]

If you have a serious use or duty use AR or take a rifle course and shoot upwards of a thousand rounds in a weekend you will find that a castle nut needs staked, handguard screws need loctite and the gas block needs minimum to be dimpled but pinned in place is even better and there are torque specs for a reason. The best way to learn this and what works is by actually shooting your AR a lot, you should not have anything working loose. Also scope mounts and rings should have loctite and proper torque specs. When it counts you need to be able to depend on your firearm.

[@gordoncouger9648]

I really like your videos. Without an intervening coating such as Zinc Aluminum/Steel treads will form their own Loctite due to galvanic corrosion. I've traded many cases of beer to have steel bolts EDMed out Aluminum parts. Keep moisture out of the threads by coating them with an anti-seise with lots of free Zinc. Anodizing the Aluminum helps too, but, it won't work in threads.

[@Logan-dk8of]

2 other problems with putting loctite on your barrel nut, if you put lock tight on and use a torque wrench it will affect your torque readings so they are not accurate, and if you put loctite on as a substitute for a torque wrench and later get a torque wrench to use on it then it will again affect your torque readings if you don't get every last bit of it off (and the heat for shooting may make it useless anyway)

[@CatCow97]

I've never thought about using loctite... But I have used a lot of anti-seize during assembly, especially for the barrel nut.

[@jonathansmith7306]

My 14.5" troy upper didn't have a pinned gas block, but the set screws were aggressively staked

[@richards.mchardy3556]

I have never used loctite on any of my firearms. I torque them down to the manufacturer specs I have been shooting since I was 8 years old, and now I'm 63 years young. I have never had any screws come loose with the exception of my cleaning rods on my milsurps

[@the_jon_m]

I prefer to use Vibra-tite for the pistol grip screw. I also put a thin layer on the threads where the buffer tube threads into the lower. Let it cure for 15 minutes before threading the tube in. Vibratite behaves more of a shock absorber and it doesn't 'harden' like loc-tite - plus its easy to remove. Then I apply aeroshell to the threads before threading the castle nut on, torque it, and stake it. Overkill? Maybe. Also, its super easy to clean off threads with brake cleaner.

[@NateDizity1420]

I never use loctite. I properly staked my castle nut and use Vibratite Red Threadmate on scope, gas block etc.. and that's because I don't want to void factory warranties and that's what they recommend (Midwest Ind, Primary Arms Optic, American Defense all want Vibratite used) For the Barrel nut and muzzle device I use Aeroshell 64/33 and properly torque and have never had anything come loose after 1500rnds. My gas block is LP dual set screw BCM with just 1 dimple and so far everything is solid.

[@vincentwinkleblech3614]

I use Blue Permatex on the Iron sights and Red dot only. Yes i have had the screws loosen on them pretty quickly. I snug them tightly but as we all know you cannot put 60 pounds of torque on those itty bitty screws and nuts.

[@markgualtieri2264]

Steve and Caleb always look forward to you videos , I have learned a lot from you gentlemen.

[@UnfiItered]

Blue loctite on hanguard clamp screw, anti walk pins, optic mount, safety selector (fostech) and jp enterprise 2 piece gas block.

[@hairydogstail]

I have used green Loctite to bed my barrels, seal my gas blocks to barrel and the gas tube to the gas block.. A high quality upper that requires a thermal fit to barrel, "eliminates the need for this" but most lapping tools will not work with these uppers..I also use Rocksett on my adjustable gas block screws...

[@bigmacfullerton7870]

I put a little loctite on the threads of my scope mount and scope riser mount just to keep my optics from moving around. It’s all aluminum on aluminum and it has worked well for me. Also if I put a new butt stock pad on there I would do those screws. It’s pretty easy to break free when you need to

[@jcnikoley]

I do locktite set screws on gas blocks, but that’s about it. Everything else, torque only.

[@ringneck7500]

Same

[@jcnikoley]

Jbog07 I use red.

[@chadhazen7466]

Anti rotation trigger and hammer screws, hand rail screws, ambi safety selectors, optic mounts.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Accurate. I use rocksett on my muzzle device and the gas block set screws. People seem to think that it is harder to get off but it is somewhere between blue loctite and red loctite but WAY more temperature resilient. People that use loctite on their barrel nut.....makes no sense. It essentially stops working after the first few shots due to heat anyway and they should really be using aeroshell which is nearly the opposite of loctite. What about loctite on scope mount screws? That is the only place I use loctite. Maybe....maybe on anti-rotation hammer/trigger pin installs although some companies like Geissele don't want you to lock those pins in place.

[@Strategic-Management]

I have a ar10 and have had problems with my scope getting loose. Blue lock tight helped there.

[@si22mm]

I use it on my grip screw cuz it does walk out and on my Troy flips sights. Shock and vibrations can walk out anything.

[@UmamiPapi]

I was wondering about this. My AR building knowledge is almost complete now.

[@danielloera25]

I used blue loctite on my Arisaka offset mount and on one of those enhanced mag releases from Battle Arms once (went back to a milspec mag release since). Otherwise, just properly torque.

[@RRaider]

I put my guns together with JB weld, it's stronger than loctite and I've never had one come apart. It also handles the heat with no problem.

[@gmfb521]

Good info. Hear a lot of things and its good to get some perspective. Especially with the red loctite an heat.

[@brownells]

Thanks for watching!

[@Budget_Prepper]

Thanks. I am building my 2nd 1 and was about to make the loctite mistake.

[@basti080891]

Optic mounts, mlok screws (like on flashlight mounts), screws for ambi safeties and everything that is attacked to the pic rail gets loctite. My gasblock screws got rockset after breaking free by themself, but that could be an issue with the aftermarket adjustable gasblock that is installed.

[@michaelnelson9989]

I agree with Mike Van and others that the handguard screws usually need a little loctite unless they have some sort of detent that holds them in place like some aero precision handguards have now. What about using loctite on screws for optics mounts? I know especially for my shotgun setup that has a red dot I make sure to put a healthy dose of blue loctite on the screws for my optics mount and then torque them to spec.

[@TheAaronalden]

Thanks for this video! There is a lot of mixed opinions out there, and I certainly respect yours.

[@maxie00001]

About gas block and thread locker, some numbers. Loctite 272 has a temperature up to 450F, Loctite 2620 650F According to US military study, barrel temperatures after 140 rds 1rd/3sec, at 7, 9, 12 inches are 719F, 680F, and 550F, for 1rd/1sec over 800F in all locations.

[@1014p]

FYI, torquing a bolt or nut effectively is bending threads opposite direction. So in effect over torquing will ruin threads and done enough properly will also render them expired. Specification assuming it accounts for material type and intended force to contain will usually avoid this. So in effect torquing is the answer here. Just remember there is a failure point. See RN-50 cap failure for the more extreme case. Each round fired was instantly torquing the threads with the cap. In my opinion your castle nut should not move with reasonable tightening. I guess maybe a blaster using 50 Beowolf maybe encourage it to move. Oh and I appreciate an actual answer on why you do not want to use it with reasonable points. However Green Loktite is used to secure engine sleeves, its permanent once applied.

[@teucer4]

Jerry Miculek recommends moly grease on the muzzle device and I have to agree.

[@TAVAAR7]

I use blue for sight mounting and reciever extension once its set how I want it cause I don't have a good way to dimple steel. I used red loctite on a gas block...once. Even after hard use it stripped a couple wrenches, tried torching it in a vice at home which led to more stripped hex wrenches. Ended up Dremel grinding the gas block off.

[@TriggerCFR]

I've used a dab of rocksett on the gas block screw. Luckily more and more barrel manufactures are dimpling their barrels which is one less thing you have to do. Or have a gas block pre-installed either properly set or pinned. But as far as Loctite goes, put it on your optic and accessories, not any part of the actual rifle.

[@rileyfahl9787]

Only place I’ve used a small bit of Locktite blue was on the the nuts and bolts for my handguard

[@mikehenthorn1778]

some thoughts, 1 loctite has several med strength items some of them are red. 2 if 2 drops of loctite on your castle nut let dry then install stripped your threads they were fail if you put torque to them. if you flood the area and install wet you get what you disserve. 3 none of that says use loctite on your rifle. just some thoughts from someone who has to use it on pumps and other items in a boiler and chiller plant. i don't stake or loctite my rifle i just make a mark with a soap stone across the nut and tube, if they don't line up i need to check. haven't had to yet.