Quick Tip: Where Should I Use Loctite on my AR-15?

[@nicholaswilson7734]

Why use loctite when you can just cross thread the nut?

[@charlierich9840]

Haha yeah that was good. Well done. I couldn't think of a better way to say - Oh man.. You all are slowwww sloww wondering about this shit. What can you fix if you need this video... It's true.

[@mongoloidhorde]

Permanently installed with permanent problems🤣

[@arod919721]

always spot weld for extra protection

[@G-Revbw]

Remember, a cross threaded bolt is a tight bolt!

[@capt.mike73ahoy14]

HA! Good one! Do not quit day job.

[@freeze1305]

I use red loctite on everything. That way I have a reason to buy a whole new rifle.

[@CalebSavant]

Cant argue with that logic!

[@nickallen8333]

I use blue and just buy the new rifle.

[@cool_hand_robb4486]

😅😅

[@bernardomontell873]

I like the way you think 🤔

[@1014p]

Well then just go to green loktite.

[@grunt167]

I'll use blue to better hold optic mounts on my AR but other than that I use Rocksett only on my muzzle device.

[@jonolsen2510]

I only use a drop of blue loctite on my optic mounting screws

[@peaceprayer595]

The handguard nuts and bolts are a good place too.

[@billyfreeman5803]

@@peaceprayer595 and MLOK/Keymod accessories.

[@VndNvwYvvSvv]

@@billyfreeman5803 MLOK bolts should come with it pre-applied, but yes. It doesn't hurt.

[@milspecmike8440]

I use vibra-tite on optics screws, have had blue loctite break apart.

[@kwad3d10]

Here is a Locktite Pro Tip. For a easy release when removing locktited hardware use a soldering gun to heat the screw/bolt and it can be removed like no locktite was used at all. Even works with Red locktite.

[@caboose1289]

One place Loctite is really useful is on the handguard screws. I had a brand new Aero M5E1 AR10 that I built with everything torqued down to spec, was in the process of sighting it in, and I kept losing my zero. I eventually realized that the handguard screws had come loose due to the recoil vibrations. I put some blue Loctite on the screws and never had another issue.

[@usernamunavailiable]

Mike Van I had this same issue with my Daniel Defense rifle.

[@john-paulsilke893]

That and sight systems attached but otherwise I don’t use it.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

my BCM handguard came with locktite for the barrel clamp screws

[@thelonepainter4760]

Man. Can you give me some advice please, on how to keep my rail guard from turning loose. I have an m lok rail guard. Every time I shoot it it ends up moving.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

@@thelonepainter4760 what rail do you have

[@MRALIGHTNER]

I was in the U.S Army, My mos was 45b (small arms repairer). We never used lock tight when I was in. Torque the parts is all you need. Buy a cheap leaf spring torque wrench and you're good to go.

[@Freeeeeeeedoooooooom]

Thank you for sharing that. No armorer in the Marine Corps ever used lock tight while I was in either. The shooting world gets more and more nutty as time goes on.

[@jonduncansakurawallknifegarden]

Thank you all for your service.

[@tomnelson9545]

I was a 45b also when we used M16A1s. No loctite then.

[@Sparks68]

During 21 years, none of the unit armorers under my command ever used Loctite in any color on any of my unit's small arms - and we had M1911A1s that had seen both Korea and Vietnam, M16A1s that had seen all of Vietnam, as well as M60's and M2s that had also seen Vietnam in its entirety. Never needed it. Proper torque does the job. Dealing with worn threads used other methods to replace and rework parts, but no Loctite of any kind. Thanks for keeping our bang sticks working!

[@kris1931]

I use locktite on optics mounts only. I use purple, because I've stripped out a few fasteners with even blue. I use rockset on muzzle devices and gas block set screws.

[@mart2224]

I love that they responded to that last video regarding Loctite. There were far too many people professing that it was a replacement for staking a castle nut, and a few of us chimed in to say DON'T EVER DO THAT. Thanks Brownells for the follow up!

[@CalebSavant]

Yes! That was the exact reason for this video. It was mind blowing, the amount of misinformation regarding locktite.

[@brownells]

Thanks for acknowledging that! We DO listen to you all!

[@mart2224]

@@brownells you guys rock... Love this series and keep them coming!

[@inyourdefense0]

As an aircraft technician, I REALLY appreciate your technical explanations.

[@Jeff-gu6nb]

As a couch potato I also appreciate their explanation

[@AlienHazard]

I find these Brownell videos so interesting. I never used loctite on my AR-15s but found this to be very informative.

[@brownells]

Thanks for watching!

[@irchrisb]

Good stuff guys. I'm new to AR ownership, so this really helps a lot.

[@brownells]

Thanks for watching!

[@patthegunsmith]

I have never used Loctite on any AR assemble parts. I DO use anti-seize compound on the barrel nut threads for the same reason I use anti-seize on the threads of my spark plugs for my motorcycle, steel threads in aluminum.

[@RCFlyBoy314]

Aeroshell 64 has and additive that works like anti-sieze

[@watchalotta1]

I always have use a high temperature grease on the barrel nut.

[@patthegunsmith]

@@RCFlyBoy314 The only thing I would allow for when using something like Aeroshell 64 or similar libricants is just that, it IS a lubricant and will affect torque values and compression of the aluminium threads as opposed to an anti seize compound. It is made for things that rotate as opposed to things that tighten. Having said that there is an ENORMOUS amount of discussion about torquing the barrel nut and it can really get over done.

[@RCFlyBoy314]

@@patthegunsmith I'm not saying that the military way is the best way.... But that IS the spec and use of 33MS for the rifle. I believe the process is also for it to be wet-torqued.

[@patthegunsmith]

RCFlyBoy314 I’m not disagreeing at all. When I did Colt warranty work they didn’t specify any. That was during the later ‘80s and early’90s. I would think the mil spec changed through the years. When we’re you doing that work?

[@MerpSquirrel]

I actually have used a little bit of anti-cease on the barrel nut as recommended from Steve in his 2016 tip video. No locktight. Only had my muzzle device come loose once, and added a copper crush washer from my automotive parts and problem solve, no lock tight, and better indexing of the brake. Also gave a cool copper accent to the barrel.

[@PaulSteMarie]

The problem with "red" and "blue" Loctite is that there's multiple versions of each, plus purple and green. In particular, there are varieties of "red" Loctite that are more temperature resistant. Don't know if they go all the way to 1300°, but there is a range.

[@Five0fiddy]

they go to 450 degree F max.

[@thegunmaven3107]

Great rundown and points about proper torque. Just to add, JP Enterprises MK III hand guard installation requires Loctite 271 for the bbl nut, once aligned for gas tube. After setting overnight, the bbl is inserted, followed by bbl retainer nut, which is torqued. It works and looks great!

[@doug6198]

I did mine right . But great to see I thought about disassembling to add loctite glad I didn’t. This helps now I know not to tear apart and for future builds.

[@briancooke5532]

I know this video is 4 years old now, but thank you, this answered a lot of my questions that I had.

[@dennismullen7332]

As a customer I enjoy watching you guys and I’ve learned a lot from you too thank you

[@brownells]

Thank you!

[@hazcat640]

Dang! Two in a row with the un-synchronized coffee! I'm devastated. ;)

[@mikecollins8241]

I have a bunch of old (1920's -1960's) gunsmithing books, all they used back then was powdered rosin.. works on everything, and the big jar of it I bought (from Brownells $10?) a decade ago will last me the rest of my life 😊

[@Seals-jv3fd]

I learn something new everyday from Brownells. It's incredible how much i have learnt about my AR just by watching your daily videos. Great work guys and thank you.

[@leanit5756]

Are going to ignore LocTite 222 MS (Minimum Strength) (Purple)? It is my favorite for optics screws and anything attached to the hand guard. I learned my lesson long ago to not use Blue (242/243) on small screws despite what some accessory manufacturers recommend. Easy to end up twisting the head right off a small screw. But never had a problem with Purple/MS on small hardware... that is what it is designed for, fasteners 1/4" and under, including for aluminum. Henkel, the manufacturer of Loctite, states that 242/243 (medium) is intended for fasteners 1/4" / 6mm in diameter or larger (up to 20mm).... not many gun screws in that range.

[@asillycryptid7235]

I made the mistake of putting loctite on my castle nut after seeing someone have a pretty serious malfunction after their nut backed out. I paid for my paranoia later on when I mangled the buffer tube a bit trying to clean it up, now I just use the ratcheting castle nut and end plate combo from Primary Weapon Systems. Works great!

[@cyclepath55555]

Yup, not sure why the ratcheting castle nut isn't used exclusively now....

[@kentuckyboy541]

Interesting. I've just always been of the school of thought that blue doesn't hurt anything.

[@CalebSavant]

Unfortunately it certainly can.

[@MonkeyWrenching]

That’s not a good school to attend.

[@usernamunavailiable]

Caleb Savant especially when they use too much.

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

ive used reusable blue lock tight on something & ended up destroying a specialized tool to try to get it off, "try"

[@hotdogs1026]

Blue loctite loosens with heat, acetone or methylene chloride solvent (just a drop or two will seep in via capillary action) I'd rather not stake my castle nut.

[@wormraper]

THANK YOU!!! so many newbies try loctite and it makes me wince. I had a guy who red loctited his castle nut and it was BEOTCH to get off. Especially because the owner who I had to help replace that tube was the 2nd owner and didn't realize that the 1st owner used red loctite AND staked it. So you can be assured we replaced that damn tube afterwards. the ONLY place I would consider it a "ok, I wouldn't do it except when I was a newb, but it's not gonna kill it" is a little blue loctite on the pistol grip screw. It's not gonna cause an issue there as long as you don't red loctite it. It's not in any way needed, but if you did that on a build I wouln't start ripping your hair out and thinking you ruined your lower (if you red loctited it...welllllllllllllllll lol)

[@autumnfragrance7185]

You can use low strength loctite 222 on the bolt release thread screw found on some billeted upper receivers... nowadays, even some forged uppers use this screw. You can use medium strength (blue) loctite (242 or 243) on handguard rail accessories. 243 provides better oil resistance. Medium strength loctite can also be used on the screws found on some trigger guards. You can use Loctite 246 or Permatex red on gas block screws. You can use Rocksett on a muzzle device.

[@jakegarrett8109]

I don’t even have one of these, I just stay for the chaos and bickering, it’s like a bunch of car guys arguing, haha!

[@jakegarrett8109]

@@melvinhawkins9208 exactly, that’s why assault cars are protected by the 2A, just like horses were for cavalry and ships for battleships.

[@alexsachse]

Agree with everything said. I never use Loctite on anything that attaches to any of the receivers from the front (barrel) or the back (extension tube). The one exception to what was discussed that I make is the grip. I use blue Loctite there. I also use blue Loctite when attaching accessories to the receiver such as lights, scope rings, foregrips, or secondary sights. I also use blue Loctite for the scope mount screws that hold the actual scope in place. I find that all these accessories have a tendency to come lose after prolonged use.

[@YotaDaryl]

I like the no nonsense approach of these videos.

[@gwman90]

Some great info in these videos, but also some info that contradicts what a lot of other long time industry professionals and manufacturers would advise. Also a lot of generalizations and anecdotal information that might not apply to everyone. "I run all mine dry and I've never had one come loose." is the same as someone else saying "I use Loctite on all my castle nuts and I've never messed up threads on a receiver extension."

[@HighFiveGuy13]

Cool video! I’ve always been taught to apply a small amount of blue loctite to the castle nut. I never paid attention to how soft this aluminum is. Really something to think about.

[@Stew357]

I find a drop of blue Loctite (medium) on the screw threads of my Sig Romeo5 red dot optic is very helpful. I've run my AR15 with just torque and with purple Loctite (low) and the optic loosens after only a couple hundred rounds. I probably put 500 rounds through the rife so far with the blue Loctite with no loosening of the optic. I have red Loctite (high) but have never used it. The Romeo5 only has one machine screw holding the optic onto the rail, and I believe two machine screws would be a better design.

[@capt.mike73ahoy14]

Another good tutorial by the Brownell guys. I do use blue on optical sights mounted on an AR, sparingly!

[@toycoma98]

I only put blue thread locker on iron sights and red dot screws.

[@vbayer2658]

you guys are great, informative ,right to the point with logic and reason , and i feel you found that perfect balance with begginers and seasoned gun owners on your video topics

[@rfreitas3298]

Steel and aluminum you can use low strength Loctite 222. I've been using for years, it is easy to remove, it will seal the thread preventing corrosion and vibration loosening. Rule of thumb: application on three threads of your bolt are enough to keep it tight.

[@jeffcergnul1831]

So I am about to build my Grendel so I watch everything I can find. One Vid told me to use loctite LB 8008 on the barrel nut because the parts are both steel and you dont want them to weld together with the intense heat of the barrel. I am glad I watched this BEFORE I put it together. Not my normal, I usually #%@$ it up, THEN read what I should have. Thanks!

[@TheLordNugget]

You want to put grease on the threads to keep them from seizing.

[@UmamiPapi]

I was wondering about this. My AR building knowledge is almost complete now.

[@chris.3711]

I've never had a need for loctite on a rifle. Scope mounts, maybe, but never on the gun itself.

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

samesies

[@redactedboi8753]

Its not good for scope mounts either

[@beekydogg]

Ryan Oliver Vlogs says who?

[@redactedboi8753]

@@beekydogg me, I'm a gunsmith and a long distance shooter...

[@beekydogg]

Ryan Oliver Vlogs I’m super happy for you. However I’m gonna follow the manufacturers directions, not some random guy on the internet. 🤘🏻

[@TacticalBuffoonary]

I use red loctite on my gas block screws they never loosen up and the loctite doesn’t turn to powder, this is after 1000’s of rounds. I take my guns apart to see how well they are holding up since all 16 of my ARs are home assembled. I always have a hard time getting the gas block screws out and even broke a bit doing so. I usually have to heat them up as mentioned. You can do whatever works for you but loctite on the gas block screws works for me.

[@kingbaldwiniv5409]

Thank you, that's a subject I have heard VERY different outlooks regarding.

[@cfh13]

The barrel for an AR9 I finished building a few months ago came with red loctite. It said to use it for the barrel nut as well as the screws for the handguard. I was like "yeah, nah. I want to be able to remove it for cleaning/maintenance without torching it". I did use blue loctite on the screws for my AR15s scope. It's THE scope I want on it and will not be switching it out.

[@Mihogan]

Interesting argument. I've "owend" Loctite for years and constantly find it to be not strong enough... I don't use loctite on my AR, not because it's too hard to remove, but because it's too easy and doesn't work well! I used Loctite RED on my rear view mirror in my car because it kept coming loose. Month later, loosened up and I removed by hand without heat!!

[@jesse5167]

I used a high heat anti-sieze for my barrel nut and castle nut. I saw in a Criterion Barrels video that they use Loctite 609 (not regular loctite) on their barrel extensions. It supposedly aids in the fitment of cylindrical parts. When I get around to a barrel swap I will likely do this.

[@DJTheMetalheadMercenary]

There are other compounds that can be used to safely retain/ secure components-- there's a transparent orange compound (forget what it's called) that's safe for mixed metal connection points and threadings alongside polymer and metal screw connections, but proper torque is always the first and foremost thing you should do for proper retaining, an appropriate compound (and an appropriate amount applied) should only be used if things keep vibrating loose or get knocked loose and won't stay tight, and you don't want to over-tighten and damage threading components like the handle/ grip retainer screw or stake the castle nut. And about the statement "if it was needed the military would do it"-- actually, from time to time they do utilize thread locking compound, especially due to how worn our weapon systems can get with certain components. Our Armorers have to be adaptive (especially on deployment) when replacement/ new parts aren't readily available or take forever to come in after the order request has been submitted and the weapon systems have be kept in the fight. I'm glad to see the Brownells crew are actually reading the comments!

[@liggerstuxin1]

Aaaand just literally yesterday I used Loctite on my optic...

[@skunkycatog]

I feel like that is fine, optic fasteners tend to walk and loosen. I did the same with my red dot. Put one drop of blue just so it wouldn’t walk as bad and can break it with my hand if I need to take it off.

[@Whitpusmc]

They are specifically talking about parts of the rifle itself, they didn’t cover accessories which do benefit from Loctite and many instructions call for it or have screws with some fastner already present.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Blue loctite for optic rings is fine.

[@BritneyStinson]

CJ nooooooooooooooooo

[@miker1568]

The residue found on new screws is called patchlock

[@MJA5]

The plastic tips on shoelaces are called aglets.

[@supergyi]

Could you do an episode on pro’s & con’s/myth vs facts about anti walk trigger/safety pins? Thanks

[@brownells]

Good suggestion!

[@mikedemello7177]

I put the anti walking pins in and used blue lock tight for the screws

[@tylerlondon5052]

The pins are supposed to rotate due to metal wear and galling.

[@rtek777]

But definitely use it on your acceories because even proper torque is the enough to keep those tiny screws from walking out. First time shooting after my first build, I had an accessories yard sale after several mags in. Domt even use locktite either, I use VC-3 Vibra-tite.

[@ssj6goku00]

His hair, Caleb, has more Loctite than the AR-15 has! He need Loctite for his hair! :)

[@th3ch33t]

Wilbur Robinson came to mind when I saw it.

[@CJLiveFromTheOutdoors]

LOL!

[@scottshoe842]

His shit is tight! I respect it.

[@tylerlondon5052]

Lazytown.

[@6ixstring]

Hey now... that's obviously Rocksett.

[@cammacgregor9354]

Wondering why someone would stake the castle nut if their usual post-shooting maintenance program involves checking for loose fasteners?

[@CalebSavant]

If it comes loose while shooting and the receiver extension rotates, checking after isn't going to help you find the rear takedown pin detent and spring at the range.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Castle nuts don't come loose unless you NEED them to not come loose. Proper assembly means you don't need to check for loose fasteners afterward. I torque stripe mine all the same though.

[@gmfb521]

Good info. Hear a lot of things and its good to get some perspective. Especially with the red loctite an heat.

[@brownells]

Thanks for watching!

[@drice847]

Loctite also make a thread-locker that is purple, 222MS made for small screws 1/4" and smaller that is removable with hand tools if your afraid the blue would be too hard to remove.

[@TheOpheliaPainn]

Agreed. Except for the barrel extension. Loctite 620 (NOT THREAD LOCKER) gets liberally applied to the outer surface, however i only do that on medium and long range intended builds. It's not supposed to be permanent, but i wouldn't do it if you intend on fooling with it after.

[@markgualtieri2264]

Steve and Caleb always look forward to you videos , I have learned a lot from you gentlemen.

[@mongoloidhorde]

Use a tiny bit of antiseize on buffer tube/castlenut threads. Between aluminum and steel, steel always wins.

[@TheAaronalden]

Thanks for this video! There is a lot of mixed opinions out there, and I certainly respect yours.

[@ftswarbill]

Thanks for posting such great videos. I use your tips all the time. Cheers!

[@brownells]

Thanks so much for watching!

[@drivergoodwin6948]

The one place loctite should be used is on MLOK accessories on your serious "fighting gun" Once you've got it set up the exact way you want it, you better make sure you loctite all your MLOK screws cuz that shit *will* come loose with heavy use and you do *not* want shit coming off your rifle in the middle of a situation.

[@gordoncouger9648]

I really like your videos. Without an intervening coating such as Zinc Aluminum/Steel treads will form their own Loctite due to galvanic corrosion. I've traded many cases of beer to have steel bolts EDMed out Aluminum parts. Keep moisture out of the threads by coating them with an anti-seise with lots of free Zinc. Anodizing the Aluminum helps too, but, it won't work in threads.

[@JohnDoe-iw7zc]

Glad ive never even heard of using locktite on the ar platform untill now

[@2fathomsdeeper]

I ran with blue loctite on the castle nut when my wrench wouldn't fit the pistol tube, and when you get a hard back plate that won't stake properly. A1's and A2's were OK'd to use blue on the ported buttstock screw, and new screws changed from nylon insert to blue loctite.

[@RCFlyBoy314]

"... there's only one thread on the upper receiver." *Laughs in M4E1*

[@fabiangonzalez-cortes8894]

Yeah I lost Aero handguard screws. They came loose under recoil. Got new ones and loctite them in place. No more screws walking.

[@stuffandmore5875]

I blued em all. They stay cool.

[@johnfowler6189]

Interesting, I've always used a copper based anti seize on muzzle devices . The anti seize will also allow you to attain proper torque spec and avoid damage to barrel nut and upper receiver. Never had a muzzle device come loose.

[@xiocian]

Only time I've used loctite(blue) on an ar was for optic mount screws. I could probably use something else but I feel some extra security with locking the threads down a little bit to keep the optic solid in place.

[@dgax65]

What about the use of Loctite for scope/red dot mounts and BUIS?

[@michaelsorenson3887]

I've used blue loctite on a red dot and also scope mount. Blue will come off if you need it to but not just for nothing. I use very little just to give it one more thing to keep it from backing out just from the recoil. Magpul mbus come with some thread locker on them and they stay just fine. Just my two cents. I personally think it's good in small amounts on sights.

[@kygunrunner]

Use blue if your going to use loctite on optics. Its strong enough to hold and easy enough to remove if you need to. Using red will only cause you to bring your gun into a shop like mine to have the screws drilled out after you strip the heads out. I have fixed 2 this week alone that someone used red on. Very bad idea. Also everyone take note. Some loctite red comes in a blue bottle. Make sure you read the strength. Permatex is really bad for putting high strength in blue bottles. Don't make that mistake.

[@ryanpeck3377]

Make sure to degrease the screws first...Even just a good wipedown with papertowels will help. And a little goes a long way, cover a 2-3 threads on one side and that should do it...i advise for Mounts, scope rings, red dots, M-lok accessories etc use Blue loctite...but check the screws first, some things, especially Magpul products come with a threadlocker already on them and it works great, so if there is brown or blue stuff already on it youre good to go.

[@romeo_alpha0176]

On much smaller screws I use the purple lot it’s. Medium hardware gets blue. If it’s too hard to remove just apply the tip of s soldering iron against whatever bolt you are trying to remove. That applies precise heat to the bolt and will help melt any loctite.

[@G43X]

I will always use Loctite on my buffer tubes but I still appreciate the advice.

[@guslulu4126]

That’s because you know more than those that do this shit for a paycheck. How does it feel to know everything?

[@G43X]

@@guslulu4126 feels great. 6 years of law enforcement before I joined the military. I know quite a bit.

[@jhalscott]

Rocksett on muzzle devices that use shims. Blue Loctite on handguard screws and optics mount screws.

[@prenticegoodwin3522]

I use a drop or 2 or blue loctight on my ARs and never had an issue. I have assembled a hand full of ARs, I have no delusion that I am gun smith because of it but It hasn’t caused me any problems.

[@robertray13]

I love it. Just use proper torque and do regular maintenance on your gun.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Accurate. I use rocksett on my muzzle device and the gas block set screws. People seem to think that it is harder to get off but it is somewhere between blue loctite and red loctite but WAY more temperature resilient. People that use loctite on their barrel nut.....makes no sense. It essentially stops working after the first few shots due to heat anyway and they should really be using aeroshell which is nearly the opposite of loctite. What about loctite on scope mount screws? That is the only place I use loctite. Maybe....maybe on anti-rotation hammer/trigger pin installs although some companies like Geissele don't want you to lock those pins in place.

[@Ehtereon11B]

More people need to watch the warning videos. I had to replace a bad spring in a Mossberg 500 I got used. The mag tube was red loctited into place by a previous owner/bubba gunsmith. I didn't know about the loctite until after I invented some swear words and put some scratches in the tube.

[@danb48190]

I use a touch of blue loctite in my aero receivers' threaded pins. That's it. If I need to remove them, I could always break the bond with a drop of acetone but they break free pretty readily without it.

[@jcnikoley]

I do locktite set screws on gas blocks, but that’s about it. Everything else, torque only.

[@ringneck7500]

Same

[@jcnikoley]

Jbog07 I use red.

[@TheSnappleman75]

Me looking at my freshly built AR with not a tube of loctite in sight...

[@DanielRyanScott]

Interesting insight about loctite, steel and aluminum. It has me thinking about all the optics that I mounted with aluminum housings, some tapped, with steel screws, into aluminum receivers. Specifically the Sclarwerks SRO adaptor for the Trijicon SRO on a Benelli M4. All the optics companys say to use blue loctite.

[@Bshwag]

I do locktite my barrel nut but only a small drop about as much as you might put on a small screw never had a problem. I also use a small amount to fill the space between the barrel and receiver so once it dries there is no wiggle between them, and that is a retaining compound that can be cleaned off pretty easily after removal.

[@solomonsgtjustinl9724]

This is hilarious because I just watched a video where Aero recommends using loctite on a few spots after you’ve got your rifle configured how you want it, and won’t be taking it back off again. I think it was hand guard bolts, and some spot by the grip, to be vague.

[@MR619Can]

will add one more area only - for ambi-selectors like a Colt M4/Colt Canada C8, a small dab of blue loctite on retaining screw for the right side selector is important. otherwise - not part of the AR but on it, is blue loctite on attachments like lights and sights and non-throw lever optics....as they will come loose when least expected. I have seen many surefire M600's come loose even when the thumbscrew was tightened with noticeable force using a screwdriver. and just to add - a little thread lock goes a long way...I prefer the sticks vs the liquid.

[@ReubenOaks84]

If you have a serious use or duty use AR or take a rifle course and shoot upwards of a thousand rounds in a weekend you will find that a castle nut needs staked, handguard screws need loctite and the gas block needs minimum to be dimpled but pinned in place is even better and there are torque specs for a reason. The best way to learn this and what works is by actually shooting your AR a lot, you should not have anything working loose. Also scope mounts and rings should have loctite and proper torque specs. When it counts you need to be able to depend on your firearm.

[@johncashwell1024]

That 'resin' as you call it, is, most often, a product made by Loctite called Vibraseal and is what is found on Magpul screws. The stuff can be hard to find, but it's well worth getting and using as it does a great job of keeping screws, nuts and bolts from 'vibrating' loose, hence the name "vibraseal". This is what I use and never do I use 'thread locker'.

[@brownells]

Great tip!

[@PMCKoala]

I use a little blue loctite on my light, foregrip, and a tad on the optic. Only things that might take a beating as extremities. Torqued to spec of course.

[@chadhazen7466]

Anti rotation trigger and hammer screws, hand rail screws, ambi safety selectors, optic mounts.

[@H.R.6688]

The only time I've used loctite was on the outside of the barrel nut so my handguard would stop slipping off. ( one of those held on with clamping force.)

[@CalebSavant]

Yeah, like the older generation Midwest Industries. Fortunately the newer models are designed not to need that.

[@H.R.6688]

@@CalebSavant I believe that is what mine is, it came on a complete upper from psa. A few years ago.

[@HB-kp6rl]

The guys on SilencerShop recommend high temp blue locktite on the muzzle. But they are also swapping muzzle devices fairly frequently and have said that they had to cut a few barrels due to rocksett. So there’s that

[@checkpoint3260]

Got it. No crazy super glue on the muzzle

[@justinw947]

This young man looks like my uncle Norman in pics from the 60s😂 love it man, he was a truck driver who survived vietnam and a few ex wives. Rip uncle Norman

[@teucer4]

Jerry Miculek recommends moly grease on the muzzle device and I have to agree.

[@2A.Freedom]

It seems counterintuitive to use loctite in most places along the bore axis. I use never-seize, especially on the barrel fitting, barrel nut, muzzle device, and buffer tube. The places I use blue loctite are the handguard screws and a dab on the grip screw and the bolt catch pin screw (if it's threaded).

[@anthonykeller2760]

On my muzzle devices or suppressor adapters I use silver antiseize so I can easily remove them during cleaning. I have never used rockset or locktite and with the barrel in a barrel vise and proper torque I have never had one work loose.

[@uncletom-e4461]

I sometimes use Blue LocTite on one side of trigger/hammer pins (depending on how loose they feel). While it's not necessary every time, tolerance slop occasionally dictates it's use...!!!

[@leerethamel3204]

i am watching this to find out where to use it, i built several and not use loctite on any part

[@7848ify]

I like rocksett for gas blocks, blue locktite for my accessory mounts

[@miket1290]

Great video. The only place I use loctite is on an ambidextrous safety. I didn't at first but it kept coming loose in a relative short time.

[@danielloera25]

I used blue loctite on my Arisaka offset mount and on one of those enhanced mag releases from Battle Arms once (went back to a milspec mag release since). Otherwise, just properly torque.

[@seethebutter]

Very interesting. Makes good sense to me. Thanks for doing this!

[@CalebSavant]

Thanks for watching!

[@Strategic-Management]

I have a ar10 and have had problems with my scope getting loose. Blue lock tight helped there.

[@Andeddu76]

Great Video, as always. Now it's time to order something from Brownells to support you... 😁👍 I only use Loctite for optics and other accesories. If you use blue Loctite for steel in Aluminium (yes, not aluminum) you don't have to soak it completely. Just a small drop. I never had problems with unintended loose screws. I never use Loctite on parts that can get hot. And never ever use zink plated screws for parts that can get hot. 😉 Best greetings from Germany. Keep it up.

[@Budget_Prepper]

Thanks. I am building my 2nd 1 and was about to make the loctite mistake.

[@richards.mchardy3556]

I have never used loctite on any of my firearms. I torque them down to the manufacturer specs I have been shooting since I was 8 years old, and now I'm 63 years young. I have never had any screws come loose with the exception of my cleaning rods on my milsurps