R65 final drive seal replacement

Today we are taking a look at how to change the final drive output seal on a 1984 R65. This procedure does not apply to all airhead.
for all your part needs go to:
www.euromotoelectrics.com/
or
www.maxbmw.com/
‪@MAXBMWNH‬ ‪@EuroMotoElectrics‬

[@mg-tracing2045]

So glad I found this video. I've just bought a 1983 R45 with a very similar looking final drive. After disassembling, it looks as if that main seal isn't seated correctly, hence needs replacing. I'm hoping that when the seal arrives I can replicate this video and be onto a winner! Thanks alot.

[@HeikosGarage]

I hope it will all work out for you.

[@tassos.m]

Thanks

[@drestat6815]

Reviving this because now I moved and have a garage to work in!

[@larrystonestreet3453]

She's going to have some money in that bike now!

[@HeikosGarage]

I am a hobbyist who doesn't charge by the hours. More or less the cost for parts. What I get out of it is the fun of wrenching.

[@larrystonestreet3453]

@@HeikosGarage Very nice!

[@MiguelAngel-qp1in]

Hey Heiko greetings from Spain. Thanks for the video, many effort there. How did you manage to remove the old leaky seal? Any particular advice, tool, lever or something similar? I suspect that there is a problem with that seal in my father's 1981 bmw r65. When I rescued the bike out of a dusty garage the rear wheel was cover on coked oil and dust. After cleaning the wheel I kind of see through the little wheel orifices that the brake shoes are oily. I am planning to remove the rear wheel to inspect, replace the seal and the brake shoes and pray a bit. I was afraid of having to overhaul the rear drive but since I saw your video there is a chance. Thanks again.

[@HeikosGarage]

The seal is accessible and was removable with a normal seal puller. A oily rear wheel sounds like a seal is leaking. Good luck.

[@BR.]

Thanks for the video! Do you have the specifications for that seal? What do I order?

[@HeikosGarage]

The seal I used was a generic seal that I bought for $5 from eBay. It was the exact dimensions. I would recommend to go to Max Bmw online and find your bike, the appropriate year and buy it from there. There are a few different versions and you got to get the correct one.

[@tassos.m]

Does the seal has to be flash with the housing? Mine gone 1 mm about in. Thanks

[@HeikosGarage]

That should be fine.

[@drestat6815]

Wow my first comment got deleted probably because I had a link to the forum in there. Anyways, my drums have oil leaking in it. If you google 1982 BMW R65 - Oily Rear Drum Shoes - you can probably find it. Should I clean everything with brake cleaner? Replace that final drive seal? Ride for a little bit and see if the leak persists? If there is no leak, then maybe I can swap out the pads? What do you think? Again thank you so much for this awesome video!!!!

[@HeikosGarage]

That sounds like a plan. If you have oil inside the drum and on your brake shoes that seal is the culprit. Good luck.

[@otterhead10]

Same here with my ‘83 R65LS. V helpful to see I can do this replacement with the FD still on the bike. Looks like I won’t even need a heat gun. Just a beer can.

[@drestat6815]

A bit confused yesterday when I drained the oil. The top (12 o clock) is the filler plug. Clymers is calling the side (9 o clock) the oil level plug. And the drain plug is at the bottom (6 o clock). Do I add oil until I see the oil start to touch the threads of the 9 o clock oil level plug? Or fill until it touches the threshold of the 12 top filler plug? I gotta double check, but I don't think I even saw a washer on the drain plug. Probably should order one ASAP! Also: I've read that the brake lever/pivot can also cause a leak into the final drive/drum. Should I just replace the o-ring for that? Its difficult to tell if its just grime build up from riding or oil. Would post pics for a 2nd opinion, but can't here.

[@HeikosGarage]

Fill until oil comes out the plug at 9 o'clock. The leak from the brake lever pivot is a problem with older airheads. Your bike has a more modern design final drive. No leak from the pivot . The casting of the final drive is different.

[@drestat6815]

Thank you. I made a mistake. From the video it looked like the seal just had empty space until it seats on the bearing. I thought I could pop the seal off by drilling a hole into it and use pliers to pry it out. Turns out there was metal directly behind the seal!! So now I have a divot (which is no good). Ran to the auto parts store to grab some picks and hooks and I cannot pick this seal off! It feels like the rubber seized onto whatever metal it's attached too. Looking at the clymers manual apparently it goes Bearing | Shim | Seal. I wonder if I drilled into the shim, or worse (the bearing)?

[@HeikosGarage]

@@drestat6815 I have an email listed in the channel about section. Send me some pictures of the problem. That makes it much easier for me to help.

[@drestat6815]

@@HeikosGarage sent. Thank you!

[@drestat6815]

Also, should I lubricate any bearings along the way?

[@HeikosGarage]

No need. The final drive is oil filled for lubrication. Only bearings that you could grease are the wheel bearings.

[@drestat6815]

Should I drain the oil before replacing the seal? My bike is in no condition to drive right now, so I can't heat up the oil significantly. It does start and run, however. Which oil do you recommend for the FD? Which grease do you recommend for the wheel bearing? My brakes are oily and my drum brake springs are coated in gunk. Maybe it's worth taking them off and getting the oil out? I read a trick to use athletes powder spray.

[@HeikosGarage]

I would for sure drain the oil out and fill it with fresh. Enjoy the hobby and let me know if I can be of any help.

[@HeikosGarage]

You need to replace the brake shoes they cannot be degreased. The material is very porous and soaks in the oil. Check your owners manual for gear oil spec. If I recall it is 80W90 or 75w90. I am using Amsoil severe gear. The grease I usually go for red wheel bearing grease. How are you planning on regressing? Rear wheel is a bit more work to get to both bearings. They do sell a tool that allows to regrease with out disassembly.

[@drestat6815]

@@HeikosGarage When I meant regrease I meant the axle shaft that slides through the wheel. It looks like multipurpose red hi-temp grease can work.

[@drestat6815]

@@HeikosGarage and thank you I'll be sure to come back here if something's up!

[@drestat6815]

@@HeikosGarage Since I can't heat the oil up (in the process of replacing my tires), should I just try and drain the FD oil cold?