Bow Tuning vs Bare Shaft Tuning

[@scottmyers4802]

I built 610 grain arrows last year using 150grain magnus buzz cuts. 300 spine victory arrows. Using your system. Had the best results ever. It's works awesome. Never going back to twisslers and flappers.

[@gandalf2256]

What poundage bow though?

[@scottmyers4802]

@@gandalf2256 65# 2010 pse bowmadness 29in axle to axle. Single cam. 245 fps through chronograph.

[@samivey8416]

I got my compound setup with 880 grain arrows and shooting better than ever. Now I'm getting ready for my trad setups. This is going to be fun!

[@The_Judge300]

I am 56 years old, so I am among the old ones as well. I have shot bows for 50+ years, hunted deer with bows with my first compound bow since 1986 and I think I have tested every single arrow and broadhead made till about 2010, but at that time after extremely much testing, both on targets and on animals, I understood what really worked, what was decent and what didn't work. So, now I just disregard most of what is new, because I don't need to test it to understand that it is not an improvement at all and most of the time made to trick people to waste their money. I learned to bare shaft tune about 14 years ago and that changed a lot for me. Suddenly I got a much better understanding of what really works and matters and what doesn't. I experienced how much it mattered when I went back to Africa 2 years later. Suddenly I experienced much better and more consistent penetration than I had experienced on big and tough animals there before. I am not bare shaft tuning out to 7 yards, or 10 yards. I always bare shaft tune out to minimum 20 yards to make sure that I have as perfect arrow flight as I can have, because I know from experience what a huge difference it makes in penetration specially. I have a 32" draw and hunt with 70lbs and 80lbs bows, depending on what I hunt. Having a "to stiff" arrow is extremely better than having a weak arrow and if a drop away rest is used, you can in reality not have an arrow that is to stiff. The only reasons for using lighter arrows then, are increased arrow speed and increased foc. The speed chasing is utterly stupid in my opinion and extreme foc is for sure not needed for any animal in USA. If in doubt, always go stiffer. The arrow penetration I have now, is extremely much straighter than I had before I started to bare shaft tune my arrows. With my 70lbs bow, I shoot 650 grain arrows with a 15% foc at 260 fps and there are not many animals on this planet I don't have a full pass through on with a quality 2-blade broadhead.

[@jacobs3418]

This is my daily driver stick. And I live 10 minutes from sirius's office so you already know kentuckys environment 250 spine orion @28 inches 110g half jacket 125g stingers 3 max hinters/4 inch wrap/ip nocks TAW 550 Out of an old elite synergy 32, 29 inch draw, 65 pounds, at a whopping 255 fps. I wrote all of that to write this. Including the elk in this state. I haven't found a target that stops these effin things. 50 yard fixed pin sight. More then I've ever needed. More confidence in it then my 30-06

[@edbaham3344]

So I love your content bc it seems to be based on practicality, science, and data. I remember by dad who was a cop and on the tactical team telling me when I started shooting a rifle that I should first find the right ammo that my gun likes to shoot. That made sense to me and I’ve never gone wrong with that. I had a lot less frustrations that way. I’m finding this works the same for my bow. I think many who want to disagree have different approaches to the problem and perhaps have different goals. What I am picking up is you are prioritizing the success rate of harvesting animals in the most lethal and ethical manner. I know you have done this but maybe you should lead with that every time you share content. It’s like a disclaimer. You’re not trying to improve any other “worthy” aspirations that archers may have- you are simply trying to help people increase their chances of harvest animals. Right? I think if most archers approached these issues with that entering argument they might grasp this a bit better. But then again, “views”are predicated on controversy so do your thing!

[@GenX-Grampa]

I thought you stopped making videos! K haven’t seen one in 4 month! I just looked you up and found I wasn’t subbed to your channel anymore! I didn’t unsubscribe!! I wondered why I didn’t see any new videos when it dawned on me how long it’s been since I last seen a video in my feed. “Single Bevel Head Breaks Humerus Ball” from 6 months ago was the last video I seen/watched from the channel. Glad to see ur still on!

[@Cdills68]

Hey man I just wanted to thank you for all your videos and knowledge. I followed your advice and it has really worked out for me. Firm believer in what your doing. 558 grain total arrow weight 27.5” 300 Gemini arrow 115 ethics insert/sleeve system, 150 grain tuffhead evolution 2.0, 3 fletch Tac drivers right helical. Awesome setup flies like a dream. Got bareshaft tuned and got braoadheads flying with field points. Changed my mind from twisllers and flappers and bad experiences. Thanks again man I really appreciate what your doing for bow hunting!

[@RanchFairy]

Send me critter pictures this fall.

[@Cdills68]

@@RanchFairy will do!

[@royhoglund1322]

The necropsy videos are great! Keep them coming!

[@jasonbushmaker761]

Agreed

[@nathangroseclose2071]

The info you put out is very helpful to any archer. It would be great if all arrow companies made a test kit.

[@chrispalffy3511]

Thanks for your insights RF. Im in New Zealand and took my bow into my local store to tune my Monster and they refused to tune it first off. Then they sold me a bunch of 250 spine fletched victory shafts and 200 grain field points and paper tuned it to suit. Im as good as I can get now. Thanks to you Ive gone from 460 grain to 595 total weight and shooting as good as I can expect. Really do appreciate all your help. Cheers.

[@RanchFairy]

Heck yeah.

[@twc6771]

Anyone that, is serious about bowhunting,need to be picking up what you ,are putting down its a little bit of time and if done, you are going to see a 100% positive, outcome, with your arrow flight, very good information that you are putting out keep, the videos coming. When tyranny becomes Law, rebellion becomes duty. Thomas Jefferson.

[@jacobbeers1136]

One thing I’ve never understood is how to “baseline” your bow to start testing. For instance - when I went through the process, I essentially just “squared” my setup (peep correct, sight centered on burger buttons, weight and draw correct for me) and just started shooting - however, I always felt that maybe I wasn’t completely baselined (I.e. perfectly squared) cuz I had a lot of options that were very close. I’ll add I wasn’t concerned with the sight at this point, just arrow flight and orientation on impact. From that point, I basically chose a spine and weights that shot the best originally from my “square” setup and then made slight tweaks to my bow (which ended up making bareshaft tune fairly quick and easy). I understand the logic. I suppose it is never going to be a perfect science with all the variables going on.

[@RanchFairy]

There are an incredible number of variables and the kits help people make a huge jump. Otherwise people just get the old "store setup" and hope.

[@adamtakacs3482]

Watched most of your vids you guys did your home work your system works and thank you

[@MiguelVidal-l8l]

Just finished bare shaft tuning and fletching my first 1/2 dozen. Feels pretty good building them myself. Thanks for the guidance. Using some Victory RIPs with the spline aligned markings, guess what none of my final nock positions match the spline alignment marks 😂😂. The season is a couple weeks away, can't wait to get some fairy style!!

[@bigald9560]

Nice vid I use a cardboard box paper tuning system as well. Works great! Helped me tune my heavyweight arrows: 790 grains, as well as my Light weight arrows: 550 grains. Both arrows have been amazing! They have both helped me harvest multiple whitetails. ***hint*** keep in mind the "effective" arrow shaft bending length (base of nock inside shaft to base of insert inside shaft) I have found that if you don't, the bare shafts CAN go slightly out of tune. The fletching will fix it, but if you want PERFECT flight, keep that in mind. God bless😊

[@jowhi9296]

Are you saying longer nocks and longer inserts change the bending on negative ways? Just curious. thanks!!!

[@bigald9560]

@@jowhi9296 they change the bending pattern slightly, so they will change the tune slightly. I'm not sure if it is noticeable everything. For me, I tuned using a point weight kit and a factory insert. I settled on a weight that tuned. I then got a longer SS insert and lighter point that matched the tuned combination. I checked it bare shaft through paper, and it gave like a 1/8 inch tear consistently off. So I think there might be something to it. The insert change would be effective shortening the bending portion of the shaft by about a half inch in my case

[@jowhi9296]

@@bigald9560 makes sense actually. I've been trying to tune with almost exactly the setup I want to use. Hopefully it helps a little lol

[@johnarcher9480]

The problem here is, you are looking for an arrow to match an out of tune bow. Match the spine, and a recurve will shoot and tune. But why not start with getting the bow shooting as straight as possible. You aren’t bending the bow, you are correcting the bend that ALL compound bows (save for maybe a Moxie Badger X) have. Once tuned, the bow will tolerate a wider range of spines. Finding an arrow to match the level of detune your bow is at isn’t making anything more efficient. Your rest is most likely off by a few thousandths or ten thousands of an inch. Your cable guard is torquing the bow. Your form in never going to be thousandths of an inch perfect. Tuning the bow lets you know you are getting everything in line as best as possible. Shooting an over or underspined arrow to hide those flaws, is not optimizing the system for accuracy, penetration or efficiency. At the very least tuning a bow is not going to make it less efficient.

[@RanchFairy]

I get all this and truth be known - I know way more than I let on. So I haven’t had anyone tell me - what is a tuned bow? I THINK……people use the arrow to tell you the bow is tuned. But I’ve talked to muktil experts and a lot of self defined experts who say “tuned”……. Then they use arrow flight as the test? Right? I’m not being a smart ass. I think 90% of people do not understand “a tuned bow” as a definition. For instance. If you want to go as fast as possible - 400 spine arrow 70# 100 grain point “Tune the bow” to that. By offsetting the bending rate of a noodle. Is that the same tune as a 300 spine 50 grain insert and 125 point? If not. Then the starting point is not defined. “A man only knows a crooked line when he understands what a straight like looks like” - CS Lewis. Seriously. I am not being a smart ass. I just can’t land on solid ground here. BECAUSE - I have 3 different longbows Cut down method to “tune” the arrows. It’s absolutely magical. They don’t shoot the same setup.

[@johnarcher9480]

@@RanchFairy A tuned bow will shoot several spine of arrows acceptably. The general starting point is finding the correct spine of arrow for your setup. You wouldnt put a 250gn point on a 30” arrow with a 500 spine. Starting with an arrow with the proper spine, a “tuned” bow will match bareshafts to fletched and/or broadheads to field points out to around 40 yards (after that, depending on the fletching and arrow dynamics of the broadhead) you may see some vertical separation. Of course that tuning is compensating for several things. Is there any torque in the shooter’s grip? Do the cables need to be set farther from the centerline to clear large fletchings? Is there not enough front stabilizer to keep the bow steady during the shot (Not just during aiming)? Is the cam system kept as straight as possible (cam lean)? Does the cam system contribute to more lean than others? All these things contribute to why we dont just line things up centerline and square, and call it a day. Tuning to the proper spine arrow helps insure the the bow is driving the arrow as straight as possible, one can then find that a tuned bow will be more tolerant of arrow spine, especially a weak arrow spine. I just hope people aren’t shooting 1 arrow at paper at a few yards, and soon as they see a bullet hole, they think they are done tuning.

[@RanchFairy]

@@johnarcher9480 Well, my friend. There is one guy (ME) who knows 99% of the best guys out there tell their audience to tune with one arrow and let it go. The standard protocol is one FLETCHED arrow. Whatever.......spine you want......and point weight......if it makes you happy!! Not necessarily the best penetrator!! I digress. But not me. I have said hundreds of times, you have to shoot all your arrows bare shaft or at least fletched and nock tune fletched. My arrow tuning playlist has arrow length, how to order arrows, the bare shaft process, nock tuning, nock tuning fletched......etc. You need to spend time with dozens if you have them. So you peaked my interest. I am going to try to shoot multiple spines bare shaft. My bow is currently tuned to shoot a 250 with a 100 grain insert and 200 grain point. Bare shaft, nock tuned, and a very small tweak to the SET system which I could have just added 25 grains to the arrow - but anyway bare shaft perfect. So, I have spines from 400 - 200 spine. I will set up some paper and I am going to find out if it works. I have honestly never done it. Maybe I am wrong. No better way to find out. For reference, my tuned arrows are in my paper tuner.com review showing bullet hole performance from 7 yards. That's as far as I shoot and then fletch.

[@johnarcher9480]

@@RanchFairy While some newer guys might say that, for the most part, people who know will tell you to nock tune every arrow (bareshaft…once fletched, that hides variance). Once that is done, there is less need to test every arrow. Once I have my nock tuning done, IF I shoot through paper (rare) its maybe at 3-5 yards, so I know im in the ballpark. After that, fletch a few, and move back to 20 yards. Fletched and bareshafts should hit the same place and at the same angle as fletched. If not, adjust what you want to adjust. Rest, cable guard, cams etc. Do that and you are good to go to broadheads….or if target shooting, you are pretty much done. 1 arrow doesn’t tell you much of anything. An arrow is an arrow 2 arrows is a couple 3 arrows is a group

[@michaelrosa5410]

Lotsa info and things to do to make an arrow effectively tune and work. I'm an old schooler and still do basically the same thing as from when I started. I pick a spine off from the Easton chart, which back in the day, was the bible. Normally for me @ my draw and 70 pounds was a 400 spine Easton calls for standard components and 100 grain head. That's all we hunted with basically back in the day, 100 grain broadheads, and why so many people are locked into 100 grain heads today. 100 grain heads are not the answer. But thats another story. I tune the bow for that arrow spine. Paper it, and do my old standby, a walk back using the 20 yard top pin all the way out to 60 yards in 10 yard then finally 5 yards until I run out of tape on the target from the drop. Shooting 20 yard pin on a 60 yard target is a real drop ! Let's say in a perfect world i'm fine,arrows stack up on top of each other. That arrow is fine. Good deer arrow maybe ? Kinda ? But I like hunting boar hogs with thick shields. So I want a heavier arrow for momentum,and FOC too. I happen to shoot @ the shoulder bone on a boar hog. Why ? The heart is there, very forwards. So normally on a 80 pound bow, I will start with a 300 spine arrow (FMJ) I know Troy hates them, I love them) for my draw. 400 spine for a 70. Thats Easton still. So I'll get a 200 spine arrow, 50 grain half out, and a 150 grain COC head for my hog arrow. I was surprised to learn, when you go up in spine, and even increasing weight upfron't the arrow still tunes on my 70 and 80 pound bows. I was expecting a nock high from the tip dropping, but nope. How did I get to the 200 spine ? Well Troy Ranch Fairy recommended me a Sirius 200 spine and with my 80 pounds simply said don't expect a ton of FOC. I got like high teens ? But more importantly, I was smoking pass thru's shot after shot. The crazy thing is how once you get tuned with a standard spine arrow, whenever you go up in spine, she stays tuned. In other words, over spine has little impact. UNDER SPINE is the death wish. So stay on the heavy spine side. If you're shooting 70-80 pounds, there isn't enough spine made to overspine you Max out there is generally 200 spine. That 2 spines up but i'm going from the Easton 100 grain tip to 200 grain tip. It trades off as what Troy was saying in spine deflection. Thats why it paper tunes. Essentially making the same deflection adding more weight upfront. I do not know what this does @ 60 pound guys. We are talking a few more spine clicks up then 70-80. My point is, I found a formula that is working based off the original Easton chart,and then maxing my spine to get FOC and momentum. Winner winner. If you're 70-80 pound draw, try it. Start Easton chart, 100 grain tip. Tune, walk back etc. Then spine up,and weight tip it up and check your tune. You won't be overspined because the added tip weight offsets your spine up.

[@KennyHaynes-o9v]

Grizzly Stick also sells bare shaft kits

[@waynemorris1999]

Be careful their quality a customer service has had way down hill. After talking directly with the owner, I will no longer give them my business.

[@timl8302]

@@waynemorris1999 I see the Silver Flames are on closeout sale. They're going to the budget line.

[@guitarq359]

Anyone doubting what he’s saying in this video or the concept of higher FOC, educate yourself about drag and lift and it will make so much more sense.

[@timl8302]

And here is a video that does that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3bbpmuOqb-qmrs

[@georgiamade892]

Wanna thank you so much for the knowledge transfer you've been a big influence on my still young archery career stay blessed brother

[@Cummins-]

Just ordered my kit

[@davidgunnels2391]

What about making a traditional test kit?Using the same products just with feathers of course.

[@RanchFairy]

We have a bare shaft test kit and I have a full traditional bare shaft video on how to use it. Sirius can build you arrows with feathers to match your results. See ranch fairy store - arrows are Tradstar's.

[@olegchernenko6712]

Where did you get this t-shirt? I want one

[@ScottWConvid19]

This has been very helpful. I bought the older test kits with just the field points and 6 arrows and couldn't get prefect on my bow, got them flying near prefect on one son's bow and couldn't get anywhere near good on one son's bow. I insert tuned and epoxied them, so I limited my ability to test different insert weight. Now,, we're gonna use hot glue and a couple of different arrows and should be able to get the right set up. I'm glad that you have taken the time to educate us and even though it's sometimes redundant, you keep helping us with as many different angles aa you can and that's highly beneficial. I'll buy you some more gasoline lol Rut calls those things ditch pickles,, but you're catching watermelons with those frogs

[@adamhowel3683]

Hot melt them in, tune them,and remove hot melt and epoxy them in...if you don't you'll regret it when it in your target and you hit that insert 3 time with arrows and bend them...stainless hard ware aluminum it doesn't matter...then you buy a new target...and epoxy all you shit in...just trying to save ya some headache!

[@featherzbonez5195]

I bought 4mm Easton axis @7.6gpi 400 spine. Arrows cut at 29”Do I need to take them back and get 300-340 spine ? Shooting 60lb 29” DL mathews drenalin What grain broadhead ?

[@clodge631992]

Would the bareshaft tuning process be the same with aluminum arrows?

[@peterweikel7123]

i am working it backwards this time. i have my trad arrows for several bows. i bought a new bow. instead of buying arrows just for it, i am going to change the point weights in an attempt to make one work. i hope it works out. If not, then i will be buying more arrows.. again. It's a good thing trad archery is cheap

[@timl8302]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3fbaKaQjtlqoZI

[@officerfoxtrot3633]

Last season I tuned Sirius Orion 200’s with 370 up front for a TAW of 718 to my RPM 360. Bare-shafted to 20 yards, nock tuned every arrow. I can understand when people decide they want to use x arrow and y broadhead and are upset it doesn’t work. But that’s why I love changing the insert weight for your particular broadhead choice. Gonna be getting an APA King Cobra DG at 90#’s using Bishop FAD eliminators and 315 grain broadheads. Should be around 830-840 TAW. I’m fairly confident they’ll tune and I can always adjust Broadhead weight if they don’t, or the internal footing system until they do.

[@dennisrobinson753]

Ishot a crossbows rating 400fps at 400 grain. Realy to bump up to 550 or 600 single bevel. Have you done anything with a crossbow if so i would like to see those numbers

[@RanchFairy]

see Draggin deer TV or search ranch fairy crossbow. whole series on adult crossbow bolts. Sirius Archery has excellent bolts with 100 grain steel inserts, and of course, the Ranch Fairy 200 grain single bevel or 3 blade will be back in stock by mid May '23!!! That will get you there!

[@jhuntley575]

Bareshaft is bow tuning for me. I pick a arrow weight then spine then bend the bow to shoot it perfectly. Then i clone each arrow to one another. I have a full service shop in my basement. Your system makes sense for rednecking it and getting the average joe more lethal. The negative is it's handicapping your arrow options and it's a longer process. Positives dont need the tools and knowledge. Many ways to skin a cat. Been watching your content from the beginning. Good stuff especially on broadhead/ arrow testing on live game cheers

[@RanchFairy]

You read me right on. 99% of people have no idea how to bend the bow, nor the tools in their shop. It works, but for average folks the test kit solves it. Perfect arrow flight both ways.

[@andrewchandler9197]

Love the vid, and just thought I'd give you a hard time. It's more of a 25% chance it defects to the front. You forgot up and down. Jk. Keep up the research. With your help I have been a ton more confident in my arrow set ups. Thanks ranch.

[@Waty8413]

Uh, why not do both? You shouldn't be trying to cover up bad cam timing, bad cam lean, bad form, etc. by going crazy with a million different arrow configurations until you find one that flies right. Tune a bow correctly and you will find that only the most mismatched spine/point combos do not fly well. I guarantee you, if your cam timing, for example, is off, no combination of arrow components will do well. You're trying to work around a bow which may not be capable of getting good arrow flight. I assure you there are guys buying bows online that haven't been checked for any of the factors I mentioned and wonder why their bows sling arrows sideways downrange. No test kit is going to help those guys.

[@darkwandervids6717]

Also a lot of people can’t shoot consistently or they are trigger punchers.

[@jowhi9296]

He always talks about now setup in other videos. This is kinda step two

[@timl8302]

That's your bow tech's job to fix. RF is not a bow shop owner. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmHRpYt8ibVliKc

[@arielrosario9168]

Hey love your videos. I'm looking to get into some Serious Apollo's I have a 28" draw and pulling 65 lbs what spine do you recommend I get.? Also I shoot 125 grain Magnus broad head's. Thanks in advance

[@RanchFairy]

250 Spine Ranch Fairy edition Apollo or Super Nova. See my 4 fletch video for tuning them!

[@robertdeis132]

How much of a difference is there with settling on an arrow length and switching out field tip weight vs settling on a field tip and cutting the shaft in small increments at a time for tuning?

[@timl8302]

Apples & oranges. The multiple tips on the front & the 2 arrow spines (4 arrows total) are to give you an idea of what spine & frontal weight (FOC) works best for your bow. Cutting the arrows in increment is a tuning method used by trad bowmen to find the correct spine arrow that works for their bow. With carbon arrows the spine ( at 28') is marked on the arrow.

[@RanchFairy]

Tim is correct. You can do either. I just wanted to make it easier with field points than having people buy a saw. And my email over "1/16" difference might put me in the loony bin.

[@jonbrown9490]

Ok, here's what I don't understand, and granted I'm a trad guy...but what's the deal with people want to tune the bow to the arrow? Why would you not want to get the bow all set up and centered then tune your arrows to that bow? Wouldn't that method give you a solid known factor with regard to your bow and then allow you to tune new sets of arrows to that bow without having to totally retune your bow every time you switch arrows?

[@timl8302]

Sort of what you have in mind. Yes, setting the bow to specs. That is the first thing you do. However, setups don't always work that easy. So, we have things like paper tuning (Based on Easton old Tuning manual section on paper tuning) &/or bareshaft tuning (Modern version of of French Tuning).

[@jonbrown9490]

@@timl8302 thanks that makes sense. So essentially get the bow to spec, then tweak it to shoot more or less straight for you...then you can tune your arrows to the bow? Thanks for the straightforward answer, because I was actually seriously curious about the difference.

[@timl8302]

@@jonbrown9490 Getting the arrows to shoot straight is part of the tuning. You get your bow & arrow set up & squared. Then, shoot it & see if it flies straight. Some will start off with paper or bare shaft. Other will use paper if there is an issue with the flight. if you get a tear (in paper) tail up or down. Move the knock point in the direction of the tear. If it tears left or right move your rest in the direction of the tear. You want to get bullet holes in the paper, or as close as you can. Also, knock tuning can be used in bare shaft tuning. if you get an arrow or three that won't behave. You put a mar one one of the two flatsides.of the knock.Put it on top. Turn the arrow an eighth- 1/4 turn clockwise, while on the string. Shoot. If it's straight. Great! If not try another quarter to an 1/8. until the arrow groups with the other arrows or hits where where you aimed & a straight flight. When it hits right mark the arrow where you marked the knock. Fletch so that it the top. If you go 360o & nothing works. You have a stump shooting arrow.

[@timl8302]

@@jonbrown9490 One more thing; When I talk about rest movement. I'm talking minute adjustments , 1/16 or 1/32.

[@nickblaylock5115]

Great video Keep it up

[@bassamaticfpv4354]

Ol Kermit got choked! 🐸

[@blakebarnett5078]

John Dudley getting on that high foc train. Ranch fairy and rocket man changing the world of archery.

[@RanchFairy]

Haven't seen anything. But, I can tell ya, if he runs a "high FOC mechanical" He's pissing up a rope. Newtons 3rd law - redneck "If something pushes harder That something pushes back harder" Mechanical resistance at impact is outrageous compared to adult broadheads. I hope he doesn't shoot animals and results don't change...to which he is likely to say "see, the high FOC thing doesn't work." Yeah....its physics "bro".

[@blakebarnett5078]

@@RanchFairy I seen an add for a new nock on archery Easton arrow he was promoting. I agree with you on all that. I love his videos on form and shooting and how to get better and consistent. But when I see 6in of penetration on his hunting videos I come to you for the pass through killing formula. I appreciate all the work yall have put into what your doing. Don't loose the drive we need you!

[@RanchFairy]

@@blakebarnett5078 oh I wish we had some of the bigger names just get reasonable. We'll see. My point was mainly you can't really "improve" an inefficient broadhead.

[@blakebarnett5078]

@@RanchFairy I agree. I didn't comment to promote him just to say that your really turning heads all across the archery community

[@edbaham3344]

As long as big names making money from sponsors, you have to question the motivation. The more we as BOWHUNTERS (not just archers or target shooters) understand and test for ourselves the better we will get. Oh and you will get progress. I do my best to ignore what big names tell me because there tends to be an angle. I want to increase my chances of ethically and effectively taking an animal with a bow and arrow, period. I think RF gets hate from folks who may have other priorities or misunderstand the problem statement he is working to solve.

[@yt_life1610]

I love frog fishing!

[@davehalm7362]

The "fly like a field point" mechanical broadhead generation will never understand what it means to tune a bow. Much less how to do it. I'll keep slinging my well tuned Adult Arrows! Thanks RF💪👍

[@stick__shooter]

How about those that love to shoot a mechanical head on a middle of the road weight arrow out of a perfectly tuned bow?

[@bennypapino3670]

​@@stick__shooter mechanicals are still unpredictable and inefficient. Cut on contact is the way to go.

[@bennypapino3670]

​@E Brown I'd much rather have a 1 inch pass through that a 2.5 inch wound that's only 8 inches deep

[@stick__shooter]

@@bennypapino3670 how about a 1.75" hole that passes through? I'm never said fixed blades are bad, but they aren't perfect. Fixed blades can fail. Mechanicals can be extremely effective.

[@stick__shooter]

@@bennypapino3670 Only a sith deals in absolutes. 🙃 Speaking in absolutes removes thinking from the equation.

[@N8Stein]

I'm sorry RF but I honestly want the Rocket Man's opinion on tuning a bow and if it affects efficiency or arrow flight

[@N8Stein]

Because I picked my heavy arrow then tuned to it. Everything looks straight and good after tuning which means I probably chose a good arrow.

[@-_-hi8964]

Rumble won't cry if you post dead animals

[@brandonpigman2725]

Not to name names! How about left and right fletch. Wouldn’t it just be better to match flèche to broadheads direction. And right hand is the standard SOOO. All should be right hand flesh too? Just a talking point to raise an eyebrow.

[@olegchernenko6712]

If it's a single bevel then matching to the broadhead direction is the way to go. If not, you might want to match it to your bow and which way it turns the arrow

[@the_sharp_carpenter]

Match the Fletch to what the bow wants to do (most strings on the market actually spin left) then get the appropriately beveled Broadhead.

[@acceleratedpulse104]

Put it this way, Saturday night you can take the pretty lady out dump a couple hundred bucks on a real nice dinner and a couple bars and a safe ride home and wake up with an annoying headache that you have to live with that will never pay anything back or! Make an investment walk away from the headache and perfect a system that works for you! If you’ve spent any time outdoors and immersed yourself in it you may have took up trapping and by learning that art you learn that a trap pays itself off and keeps paying you if you do things right same concept! if I’m ever in Texas Troy I owe you beer thanks man! I really appreciate what your doing!

[@timl8302]

Oh, FYI-Water breaks & food help prevent the headache.

[@stick__shooter]

You'd probably cr@p your pants if you saw one of my recent builds. 300 spine, 410 grains, 20% FOC 🤣

[@YoureSoVane]

FOC is always more important than overall weight. It just needs to be tuned.

[@stick__shooter]

@@YoureSoVane I disagree that FOC is always more important.

[@YoureSoVane]

@@stick__shooter I guess it depends on the relative gain in weight and FOC. If increasing FOC by 5% doubles the weight of the arrow, I'd rather not lose the velocity.

[@karmas.busdriver]

@@YoureSoVane In most quality modern Bows, unless you're shooting at ranges beyond 30 yards, most deer hunters don't, I'd rather have the penetration. 250 spine, 100 grain insert, 125---150 grain quality single bevel broad head. Makes a real deer killer, and reduces Bow noise a bunch.

[@YoureSoVane]

@@karmas.busdriver I'm running even more point weight than that, and I'm still trying to lower my back end weight. I'm trying to have one arrow for everything and not swap them out, to include 3D shoots.

[@blainclatworthy5423]

In the Good Old Days, we tuned the Arrow to the Bow.

[@stick__shooter]

In the good old days you didn't have a lot of options to tune the bow.

[@urmominabox87]

​@@stick__shooter I mean that doesn't make it any less valid my guy

[@stick__shooter]

@@urmominabox87 True. Have fun with that. I'll save that for my recurve and tune my compound the way it was built to be tuned.

[@timl8302]

Yep! Using the Easton Tuning Guide.

[@stick__shooter]

@@timl8302 the old, outdated one that was written for shooting fingers? If shooting a modern bow with a release aid the Gold Tip tuning chart is the way to go.

[@randomcdude4430]

This just sounds like "bow tuning" in the trad world. Can't bend the trad bow very much. Nocking point height is really all you got unless you have the guts and know how to break out the sand paper. So to "tune" your bow, you focused on the arrow (the arrow is part of the bow cause a bow without an arrow is just a 1 string harp). Your form is also a huge factor in trad shooting. So really all Troy is doing taking bow "tuning" back to it's roots. Trad bow tuning concepts applied to compound bows. That's it. How is it hard to understand? You know every compound bow tuner should go get themselves a cheap recurve at around 30-35#@28" and figure out how to get the best arrow flight they can out of it for their draw length. Guaranteed it will help them understand the process better and make them a better archer/bow hunter.

[@johnhildenbrand2642]

Archery is turning out to be like a lot of other stuff, the further down the rabbit hole you go, the more complicated it gets...don't get me wrong, I blow through big western mulies with a 2017 PSE Bow Madness Epix, 70lbs shooting a roughly 550 grain arrow and a muzzy 3 blade tip (yeah, I know, it isn't a 2 blade COC single bevel, when my remaining ferules are non-salvageable or lost, I'll probably switch and I'm a cheap bastard, sue me) but for every bit of advice I get here, I get conflicting advice from other very successful hunters, it isn't necessarily that I don’t trust what you guys say, but watching a guy I've hunted with pass through an elk year after year with a BowTech TomKat and 450 grain aluminum arrows with thunderheads on the end is pretty compelling evidence, especially after having to help the bastard pack half the meat out...going out with a recurve for the 2024 season, and trying it your way just cuz, we'll see but I don't think I'll be disappointed if I get a clean shot.

[@timl8302]

Magus broadheads will be the cheapest ones he mentions+ lifetime warranty. Tuffheads, Iron Wills, most Grizzly Sticks are expensive.

[@johnhildenbrand2642]

@@timl8302 I've been looking into either Magnus or else Zwickey, neither are terribly expensive, but they are different and are supposed to penetrate better

[@timl8302]

@@johnhildenbrand2642 True. Zwickeys have been around since1938. They come in single & double bevel. Magnus comes in double bevel only. However, they do have a tanto tip to prevent curling. Except the Snuffer & Bullhead of course. Not sure on the Zwikey's warranty? Anyhow, it's 6 one way & 1/2 dozen the other. Both have very good reviews.

[@dacruz34]

Anyone here shoot a 70# 30" Draw length?

[@jeffreywilson690]

When I hand load for a rifle I like to have more than one bullet & more than one powder

[@RanchFairy]

Ranch Fairy Test Kits - Sirius Archery Ranch Fairy Store. Your powder (draw weight) is fixed. So we make small adjutments to the bending of the arrows.

[@John-z8g9z]

Trey, Ranch Fairy 🧚‍♂️! Please stop defending the CORRECT way to do archery 🏹. I watch your posts to learn the correct methods to achieve proper archery results in the field. I don’t watch or listen to a bunch of Yeah e who’s that want to go about doing things Bass Ackwards ! So please don’t bother trying to educate the experts! Thanks so much for your posts and the content! 🏹🦌☠️🏹🦌☠️🏹🦌☠️

[@gfunkera_2266]

You should seriously try tuning arrows that fly left and right with different fletchings as a joke lol

[@timl8302]

Profiled rifle barrels have harmonics. Yes, they bend. Bulls & semi- bulls hardly bend, if they even bend.

[@BriarJumper]

Troy, thank you for all your research. I have been following your work for 3 years now with great success. Whats your opinion on this.... below is a short video from a guy in texas that shows how to check how the arrow wants to flex. He also has a longer detail video on his results with various spines. His presumption is that on launch, the bow (should or wants to) bend the shaft down for proper launch trajectory... This could be a quicker solution to get through bare shaft tuning and nock twisting... kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGrCXpKajJt3b5I

[@EmmettSwearson]

Man this is way way too far down the rabbit hole for me. 600 years ago people killed stuff with pointy rocks. All I did with my bow was paper tune and broadhead tune. No issues out to 80yards.

[@timbow50]

I can not understand why anyone that is SERIOUS for real about archery and all it involves doesn’t have at least a bow press. Plus all the equipment for building your own custom arrows. Why rely on when a shop is open? Why rely on someone else setting up YOUR bow for you. Accepting and using someone else’s “ expertise?” is very easily the wrong thing for YOU. You are better off in the long run learning at home for yourself. There are endless videos to get some excellent ideas for you to work off of.

[@-_-hi8964]

Please put you Instagram link in your about section.