Randonneurs Should Ride Fast Bikes

Randonneuring is hard. Your bike should not make it harder. This video discusses 3 benefits of a fast bike, gives an overview of the 4 characteristics that can make a bike fast no matter who is riding it, and simulates 100km of a typical brevet course to illustrate the impact of fast or slow bike.
New microphone can be heard in parts of the video (Thank you Nina!). Hopefully it will improve audio quality in future work.
Citations:
www.trainerroad.com/blog/calo...
www.unitconverters.net/power/...
www.nature.com/articles/s4225...
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18076...
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28044...
www.researchgate.net/publicat...
www.tour-magazin.de/raeder/re...
www.gribble.org/cycling/power...
gccoaching.fit/2016/11/05/get...
www.cdc.gov/sleep/about_sleep...
www.fitstop-lab.com/blog/vent...
maximizepotentialtx.com/blogs...
www.trainingpeaks.com/blog/un...
blog.silca.cc/part-4b-rolling...
blog.silca.cc/part-4a-rolling...
www.bicyclerollingresistance....
Windy Ride by Heera Kang, McGraw Hill Publishing
Aziz, Elsayed & Esche, Sven & Chassapis, C.. (2008). Online Wind Tunnel Laboratory. 10.18260/1-2--3402.
bioracermotion.com/en/biorace...
gigazine.net/gsc_news/en/2017...
road.cc/content/tech-news/mer...
zerofrictioncycling.com.au/
cyclingtips.com/2020/05/how-m...
ridefar.info
trackleaders.com/transconrace1...
www.korearandonneurs.kr/
Various images from product pages
Thumbnail images from the pride of the Six and englishcycles.com
#ultraendurance #randonnée #bikes
00:00 Introduction
00:53 Less Effort, Same Speed
02:53 Same Effort, More Speed
04:56 Avoid Power Surges
08:26 4 Qualities of a Fast Bike
08:51 Rolling Resistance
11:11 Aerodynamics
14:30 Weight
16:11 Drivetrain Efficiency
17:56 Simulation of 100km Ride

[@canica99]

Hello, your video is pretty good for the technical part of randonneuring. I just hope that you fellows out there doing randonneuring do not lose touch with everything you seeing while you are out riding. I used to race and one time after a race, a local starting talking to me and asked me if I saw several wonderful water falls and I said no. On the drive home I thought about all the times I have raced this course and never really seeing things. I no longer race, I bicycle tour and I can tell you stories from meeting moon shiners in the Carolinas to seeing a pack of Bisons walking by me while I was entering Yellowstone. I would like to do some Brevets but I want to make sure I have the full experience...the nature, the people, the food, the culture and the discovery of what the limit of my body can still and is willing to do. Cheers.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

I hope you do get the chance to do some brevets; they are wonderful experiences. To me, overbiking and efficient strategies do not have the primary function of finishing faster. Rather, they give the rider more freedom from the pressure of time limits and a buffer to error regarding fueling, break time, sleep, and effort. I've found that fueling well and avoiding exhaustion allow me to be more present in my environment regardless of cycling speed. A fast bike helps with both, as it takes less energy than a slow bike. I hope that came through in the first third of the video. While I've never raced, I often felt like I was rushing even when thru-hiking the A.T. and P.C.T., each 6 month long trips. Randonneuring is very different, but carries it's own charm offering especially intense, but ephemeral moments that stick in your memory for years to come. Cheers!

[@711693]

If you have a more efficient bike you CAN stop and smell the roses because you have banked time.

[@John-pq4oi]

Totally underrated channel, thank you for producing this well-researched and very well-explained content!

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Much appreciated! I hope to encourage cyclists to get interested in randonneuring and have better success when they try.

[@michaelpfister3572]

I am new to long distance cycling, getting loads of valuable information from you. Thanks a ton for your videos mate.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Great to hear you are getting some value from it Michael. Are there any topics that you would like to see covered that you think would be helpful? Thank you for watching!

[@uhu69]

I like where you are going with this. Being more efficient (while hopefully within comfort) is a good thing. The less watts you use for the same account of distance seems intelligent to me. I'm hoping to do my first randonée on my Giant Defy with Zipp 303s (and a Selle Anatomica H1 for comfort). 감사합니다!

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Cheers Alex. An efficient (fast) bike will help mitigate some bottlenecks you might experience with time, sleep, nutrition, or fitness. Defy and mid depth carbon wheels are a great tool for the job. What's your tire of choice? Probably the single most important equipment choice for efficiency. GP5000 got too expensive, so I'm on Pro One TLE now. 28c in Korea, but 32c was more appropriate when I lived in Canada. Winter is brutal to those roads.

[@uhu69]

@@overbikedrandonneuring Thanks David! I have some Schwalbe Pro Ones on order. 32mm...you are dead on about our roads here (and railtrails...can be a bit rough). By the time the ice melts and salt 🧂 trucks are put away for the season I hope to have the Defy setup with it's new wheelset, seat, brakes and Pro One's. We have too many beautiful country roads around the Guelph K-W area so a second set of DT Swiss gravel wheels are on the way (with 35mm Schwalbe G1s). I definitely don't want to use those for brevets lol. P.S. I remember taking a bike rental along the Hangang (near Seoul)...and how glass smooth the paved trail was. I sincerely hope to do the 4 River Trail from Incheon to Busan one day. 건배 🍻

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@uhu69 Guelph area has some great scenic roads, but yeah 32s will serve you well on them. Good memories of visiting the Spirit Tree Cidery near there, but never got around to visiting Laurier, my wife's alma mater. If you ever get to revisit Korea, the 4 River Trail is great, and the countryside roads are pretty special too. Best wishes for a successful 2023 brevet season for you!

[@Blindbat1337]

Stumbled across your video having recently been learning about randonneuring. Started to recognize the Korea vibe in your videos and then I saw the pic of Jason. Hello from Daegu!

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Good to hear John, welcome! Korea is a great place for randonneuring. Bike paths to get out of cities, reliably quiet country lanes, cheap hotels, late night convenience stores, public transit, and Kakao T if disaster strikes. Daegu is completely surrounded by good cycling too. The routes used by KoRa make for great touring and exploring when you want to get off the river path. I got to ride a fair number of brevets with, or partly with Jason in the mid 2010's. He's a great guy, tough as nails, and someone I have always looked up to as a cyclist. Are there any randonneuring topics you would like more information on?

[@Blindbat1337]

@@overbikedrandonneuring Thank you! I think nutrition and pacing would be a good topic! That’s tough for someone who is used to 3-5 hour rides and not stretching it out.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@Blindbat1337 Good ideas John. My next video is on gearing selection, which relates heavily to pacing climbs. I have one in the pipelines that will go in depth on pacing strategy holistically too. I only briefly touched on nutrition in other videos, but a nutrition primer with a 200km 먹방 around Jeju sounds fun. That is a big gap in my videos that I didn't have a plan for. Thanks!

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Hi John, just wanted to let you know I've put up a video on pacing. Hope you like it!

[@Blindbat1337]

@@overbikedrandonneuring Thank you!

[@jonathanbliss1945]

An interesting video that I enjoyed watching, many thanks. Really great research and insight. I treat randonneuring as a traditional cycling sport, by which I mean that the distances and the times in which a rider is given to complete them has been set in stone for a long time. This together with the fact that I am a bit of retro grouch, I prefer to use what would be considered a more traditional Audax bike i.e. one with a frame made of metal that can take 28mm+ tyres (preferably with mud guards), hand build wheels on traditional profile rims and one that can carry baggage. A lot of these factors lead to my main requirement of such a bike and that is comfort. A comfortable, fast tourer is what I would consider ideal, but then I also like just owning one bike and generally ride alone. Many of the points covered could still apply to this style of bike though, i.e. tyre rolling resistance and weight (where hills apply). My aim to just get around within the given allocated time and such a bike allows me to do this and with a few hours sleep on the 400 and 600s (at the moment). However, as I get older, my speed does drop and the rest time is more tricky to fit in. So perhaps its something I may need to re-evaluate and consider a faster bike in the future.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Thank you for the comments and for enjoying the video. I love the aesthetics of the classic rando bike and the relaxed attitudes associated with them, but also believe some advancements in technique and equipment are well worth considering. I'm not the strongest nor mentally toughest cyclist, so anything to improve my chances of successfully finishing or getting more sleep are worth considering. Comfort plays a huge role, so you may also enjoy my video 'Comfort = Improved Performance' or my Redshift Shockstop review. I'm quite happy with 30+mm tires and suspension stem and seatpost at the moment.

[@jocelynmlynarz5310]

While I agree with the general idea, I think it should be toned down a bit. Randonneurs should ride "reasonably fast bikes". As for many things, there are diminishing returns in terms of gains (expressed in your case as watts saved and time saved) vs. efforts/sacrifice. Among other things, TCR was won two years in a row by James Hayden on a Fairlight Strael, which isn't an optimized bike (it's a good all-season steel endurance bike though). And for brevets with an easier profile or low-to-moderate winds, it's even less important. People do finish the PBP with hilariously unoptimized bikes. A decent road tire will not have a rolling resistance all that much greater than a pair of 25 mm GP5000s. Sacrificing a couple watts for comfort (e.g. using lower pressure) and puncture protection is not a bad idea. A bit of performance is lost, but a lot of fatigue can be avoided, and the time spent fixing a flat tire will be larger than any savings earned by choosing a pair of GP5000S instead of their new All-Season variant. Your example for weight differences is quite extreme. 5 kg is a lot of weight; the weight difference between a light randonneur and a carbon endurance bike with probably be around 1 kg depending on the peripherals and equipment. 1 kilogram means 1% extra power on climbs only, which won't be the main cause of a DNF. If that extra kilo means additional motivation (some people like to ride stylish bikes), it might be worth the small extra effort. And the additional weight from hub dynamos/fenders/brooks saddle are not a huge penalty if their utility helps towards reaching the "finish line" on time. So yes, randonneurs should get any sort of decent road bike, a set of tires that roll well, and a good aero profile. But they don't need to hunt marginal gains, especially if it means sacrificing comfort or motivation. Aside from freak exceptions (someone finishing 3 minutes before closing time), if one can't finish with a "75% optimized" bike, they won't finish with an "100 % optimized" bike.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Hi Jocelyn, thanks for the comment. One goal of this channel is the hunt for the optimal randonneuring machine, which I believe will be quite different from a road race bike or from adventure race bikes. "Comfort = Improved Endurance Performance?" is sort of a companion video to this one that might put these ideas into a more agreeable perspective for you. My video on sleep adds more insight. My hope is viewers can sift through which of these elements work for their use case and budget. It's not just for calories saved, time saved, speed, relative exercise intensity (which is linked to other body pains), but also for sleep and a hedge against mental difficulties. I consider a fast bike an increased % chance of success, a buffer to problems, and the ability to ride with a group of friends who are stronger, like I did on my 600k a few weeks ago. Any rider, strong or weak, gets more freedom to ride a brevet like they want with a fast bike. FWIW, I checked out James Hayden's (sponsored) bike and would rate it very highly. Aero bars, Gp4000 tires (2018 best choice), a saddle that supports aero bar use, suspension seat post, double wrapped bars, light carbon wheels, low gearing considering his weight and fitness, and all bags in line with the frame are all recommendations I've made on this channel. TCR conditions benefit from a dynamo more than a regular brevet, so it is a wise choice. The ~700g added vs carbon is mostly irrelevant. I put weight at the bottom of priorities. Most of the differences in the model are from rolling resistance and aero, followed by drivetrain. You'll find that a fast tire will more than make up for the time spent changing a tube. Tubeless has been pretty great too, getting speed and very few punctures. The 5kg weight made only a little difference in the model, but is quite accurate or even conservative to differences I often see at events. The riders who prefer a robust bike also carry a bunch of extra stuff, often in bags out in the wind, and ride on Gatorskins. Cheers, and safe travels

[@jocelynmlynarz5310]

@@overbikedrandonneuring We are mostly in agreement then. I agree with you about randonneur bikes with the aero profile and weight of a Sherman tank. And Gatorskins are a poor choice of tires : I personally suggest GP5000 All Season mounted tubeless, in 30 or 32 mm : the size not only adds comfort but also helps keep the pressure low enough for the sealant to work most of the time. I do think the 2-4 watts total penalty is a minor one compared to the 30 minutes having to patch the tire with a bacon strip (or set it up tubetype) in the rain.

[@drouleau]

My interest in randonneuring has been renewed as of late (first became interested in it back in 1991 after reading Ed Pavelka's PBP writeup in Bicycling Magazine). My new Merlin Sandstone gravel bike should fit the bill well if my body can hold up after racking up a bunch of injuries over the decades....although the Merlin was built to my measurements/specs, and fits me extremely well and is super comfortable. I currently have 38mm Rene Herse Barlow Pass tires on it for gravel riding that measure 41mm on my wheels (35 psi in the rear and 30 psi in the front), and in doing some speed testing compared to my Trek Emonda on a pretty flat course, 26 miles with 700 feet of climbing, at 170 average watts (181 NP on the Merlin and 186 NP on the Emonda), the Merlin was only .4 mph slower (18.8 mph vs. 19.2 mph) than the Emonda with 25mm Schwalbe Pro One TLEs (90 psi in the rear and 85 psi in the front)....although the Emonda "feels" much faster. I should also mention this is mostly on a bike path with really good pavement, and was wearing the same speed suit and helmet (Giro Vanquish) on both rides. I wasn't using my aero wheels on my Emonda, which are faster, and currently have tubes in the Schwalbes while the Merlin is tubeless....but the speed is in the general ballpark, and the significantly wider tires would help while carrying gear and on rougher pavement. While the Merlin isn't exactly light at 19 lbs (my Emonda is 15 lbs), it's not horrible for a metal gravel bike, and being titanium, fairly indestructible as well. My current debate is to keep the 38mm Barlow Pass tires or swap them out for something like a 32mm Conti GP5000 TL, as my 38mm deep gravel wheels have a 32mm outer width, so this would be a much more aero setup (I am a roadie, after all lol). I know, with all the crap on the bikes, they're not the most aero things in the world, but the wheels and bars hit the air first.....so even a 5-6 watt savings adds up over the course of 80+ hours. The real question is, will the narrower/higher pressure tires on poor road surfaces even out (or detract from) those gains? I guess I'll have to test out that theory at some point. For any hilly events under 200 miles though where I'd really only need minimal gear and could do mostly during daylight hours, I'd still use my Emonda with aero wheels.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Thank you for sharing your experience Dana, and welcome back to randonneuring. Your test results seem to line up pretty well with what modeling would suggest. The Barlow Pass is quite quick for a large tire in the 2 lighter trims, and the Schwalbe, ever the value king, still lags behind faster road tires and is made slower with a tube. Were the Barlow pass on the 38mm deep wheels on the Merlin? To attempt to answer your question, a 30c GP5000 S TR mated to your 32mm wide wheels would produce the most ideal aero profile for a tire that width on moderate depth wheels, and have killer rolling resistance. You should be able to run them tubeless at 55-65 PSI depending on your weight and road conditions. This achieves a rather cushy ride and tackles a wide range of tarmac quality while avoiding the spike in rolling resistance tires get overwhelmed with roughness as per the Silca reports. I would recommend trying 30 or 32c tires set up tubeless on your gravel wheels, but with a few caveats. Test that the tires you choose play nicely with your specific wheelset for on-road repairs. Lots of reports of tubeless wheel/tire combos being a beast to seat and unseat. Not ideal for 4 AM in the rain when exhausted. Happy riding! Would love to hear you report back if you decide to try 30/32c tires.

[@drouleau]

@@overbikedrandonneuring Yeah, I've been running tubeless for years on my road and gravel bikes - started out using Conti's but found the Pro One TLEs to be fast and grip better on mountain descents back when I lived in SoCal; the Conti's were a little squirmy on fast, twisty descents. I literally just read some reviews on the new Conti's before typing this, and I think I'll skip those lol....harder to mount than the old ones (and the old ones were a pain on my Easton wheels), and not as puncture proof. The original 5000TL's I used to have weren't that good with puncture protection to begin with. I run Winspace wheels - Hyper 50's for my fast wheels, Lun 30's for my training wheels, and their gravel wheels on my gravel bike. The tires that I use have all been relatively easy to get onto the rims, however seating the beads for tubeless can be another story (and a non-issue out on the road, thank God lol). The Barlow Pass tires were a PITA to get the bead seated on the Winspace wheels.....come to think of it, I also had issues seating the bead on the Rene Herse Hurricane Ridge tires on my Stans wheels as well. Had to have a bike shop do both those wheels as my tubeless pump simply wouldn't do it while employing all the usual tricks to seat tubeless. Must be a RH thing. Never had issues with my Pro Ones. As far as the aero profile, it also can depend on the particular tire and how it sits on the rim as well. When I talked to the Winspace folks awhile back, they designed their Hyper 50's to basically work with the Pro One and GP 5000 TL 25mm tires (outer rim width is 26mm), and the Pro One sits perfectly flush with the wheel. My Lun 30's with the same tire, has a verrrrrrrrry slight bulb to it, although you have to use your fingers to feel for it. For distance events with carrying a light to moderate load, probably I'd err on the side of 32mm as the minimum width tire that will still be aero. I have 30mm Schwalbe G-One Speeds on my Ridley Fenix SL (sits on the trainer though most days), and for unloaded riding they're great, but would prefer as much volume as I can get at 32mm. Oh and my Barlow Pass tires have the endurance casing, since I bought them for gravel riding, so the "slowest" casing of that tire. And yep, they were on the Merlin, the max tire width on my Emonda is 28mm. As far as my weight....I've actually been lazy for the past year and gained like 15-20 lbs with minimal (for me) riding, so I've been working on getting back to my usual shape, and in the base building period now. Mid to upper 140 pound range (around 147 lbs) is about as ideal as I can get at 48 years old and not the same metabolism I used to have when I was in my 20's lol. Right now I'm around 165-167'ish, so it sucks....but chipping away slowly. Fortunately I've been doing this stuff (road cycling) for 35+ years on and off, so I know how to train and how my body reacts/feels and what it takes to get to where I need to be. Currently have the San Diego Belgian Waffle Ride (125 miles) in April on the calendar as my "fitness carrot", which I'll use the Merlin and Barlow Pass tires for.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@drouleau San Diego is a lovely city. Fondly remember visiting there before hiking the PCT in 2011. Enjoy that ride! The Pro One TLE have been a joy to use and cheap. Despite the lost efficiency, they will continue to be my go-to for the foreseeable future for their ease of service (mount with hand pump), grip, price, and acceptable durability. Sounds like 32c Pro One TLE on your gravel wheels will be a winning combo for randonneuring, either on the Fenix or Merlin. Im about 195 lbs running 28c that balloon to 30c. Get some extra cush from the Redshift bits though. You should be able to run whatever pressure matches conditions at your weight on a 32c tire. Post a link here if you do a video walk through of your randonneuring setup. Cheers!

[@ericpmoss]

"Fast bike" doesn't mean hyper stiff race bike with stiff wheels and steep angles requiring uncomfortable positioning. The winner of the 487 mile Arkansas High Country Race (south loop) rode a steel frame and alloy rims with 26" wide tires, and beat the second place finisher (who was a few decades younger) by 75 miles.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Fit comes first, steering angles don't matter much, and isolating from vibration is important to long-distance performance. Check out my video on comfortable bikes for my research on that. I've found older athletes consistently overperform in ultra endurance events and am browsing research on the topic. I'm sure you know that racer was Jan Heine. I'll discuss his kit and performance if you don't mind. He was riding a brisk randonneur pace in a field riding touring pace. His experience will always beat this field of participants. 16.7 kph including breaks with some gravel and a slightly hilly course is efficient and a strong effort an enthusiast. Probably better than what I could do. His equipment must stay on-brand to support his business, and he did very well working within those limitations. No problem with that, but his supporters should consider it more. Probably extralight casings, the fastest 26" tires available, well suited to the gravel composition, and too wide to allow aero wheels give their max potential benefit. With a fresh drivetrain and a reasonable weight bike, 3/4 of my fast bike qualities were perfectly met. The fourth, aero, was well considered too. the IG photo of him shows he was wearing tight fitting kit, using half-mud guards, and his most narrow handlebar bag which negates any potential benefit of using aero shaped frame or handlebars. While not perfectly aero optimized, it is the most aero solution that stays on-brand, so 4/4 considering his role as a small business owner, and kudos for a strong effort.

[@SeanKeesler]

Were I in my 20s or 30s, I'd be pretty intent on these sorts of optimizations. Do you think that solving for weight/aero/low rolling resistance has any impact on comfort? I've found that my gear choices have been tuned more for this as my limiting component. Scrunching down onto aero bars would likely bother my back in short order.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Good question Sean. I consider endurance bike fit to be an independent variable and of the highest priority. Other equipment is subordinate to fit. Most equipment choices related to aero like wheels, bags, helmet, and kit have minimal impact on comfort. Narrower tires and chasing aero and rolling resistance optimization leads to higher pressures than one would run for comfort, but likely lower pressures than was run in the past. For me, 30mm wide tires are now run at ~70 PSI, 20 PSI lower than 6 or 7 years ago. The Redshift shockstop system has allowed for both great comfort and speed focused tire choice. Weight is a pretty low priority, but also has almost no impact on comfort when making reasonable buying choices. The wallet suffers most. I'll be doing an aero bar primer video soon, but basically a long distance cyclist should have them setup high and a bit wide such that they are a comfortable place to ride for long stretches with good visibility. They provide rest for hand and large efficiency gains, but not to the extent of what a racer would want. Thanks again for the good question. Perhaps my videos on Harsh Bikes Hurting Performance and the Redshift Shockstop system would be useful for you.

[@711693]

I'm 67 and have put on aero bars with raisers. I never feel crunched. get what they call a 'relaxed fit"

[@amoghpalande]

Hi, thanks for creating this video. Just to clarify, @07:53 - use of aerobars - Aerobars are not allowed in BRMs, as per Audax rules.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Thanks for the comment. It is a good reminder that each governing body has slightly different rules on equipment. The detail on aero bars may relate to a focus on Audax style (riding as a large group) vs. allure libre (own pace). Allure Libre is the common style in North America and Korea, and so aero bars are allowed by organizations I ride with. I'll keep this in mind with future videos, thanks!

[@amoghpalande]

@@overbikedrandonneuring yes that may be the case, I am personally not aware about specific rules in Korea and America. However, what I do know is if a registered event (e.g. a BRM) which is organised under the authority of ACP and local ACP affiliated club anywhere in the world including Korea and America, the use of aerobars is not allowed.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@amoghpalande Even PBP has allowed aerobars as of 2019, albeit with some regulations on length: z-upload.facebook.com/audaxclubparisien/posts/2034845773236306

[@767bob]

Aerobars will get you disqualified. A real rando bike are light, they are not touring bikes. But I have seen rando riders on touring bikes put in some fast times.....I did rando rides for 10 years....I have completed over 11 SR series and have ridden 1000k, 1200k and 1500k events. It does not matter what kind of bike you ride. The main thing is to ride a bike that you are very comfortable with, able to carry your tools, spare tubes, tire and extra clothing. Plus food and don't forget lights! When the rides goes past 300k, you are basicly on your own. You will do rides that goes through the whole night, rain, cold or whatever mother nature will throw at you. Plus ride in areas with hardly any civilization so try to be prepared to carry your stuff. This is a very friendly sport so you can end up riding with a group. Also plan on riding solo too for long periods. Having a fast bike will not make you fast if you are not prepared physically, mentally and really put in the miles all year round. I might have painted a bad picture but after completing your events, you will have great memories of the events, the sceneries of the rides, and the riders/friends you have fun with.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Hey Bob, check your local rules about aero bars, but they are widely accepted in many randonneuring organizations and available to use in PBP, with some regulation. I have a video on comfort and packing as well, but all of these are independent variables. Any rider will be better off on a faster bike rather than a slower bike, all other variables (fitness, skill, comfort, packing, nutrition) being equal. I've found many randonneurs ignore this measurable fact and suffer for it. I think you've described the nature of the riding perfectly though. Thank you for sharing your experience.

[@711693]

@@overbikedrandonneuring For safety reasons, the use of extenders is strongly disadvised in peloton. I have conferred with Bill Bryant RUSA president aero bars are permitted at PBP

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@711693 Absolutely, they are foolish to use while in a bunch. I am finishing up a video on aero bars for randonneurs that should be up within the week that addresses safety and other issues. As a mostly solo rider, they are very useful though.

[@stangoodvibes]

Can you do a video on packing your travel gear as aerodynamically as possible and the performance benefits?

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

I do have a video on packing for brevets, but it may not go into detail on potential energy savings. I try to avoid any bags out in the wind. Frame and top tube bags in line with the frame, bikepacking (not Carradice) bags behind the saddle, or even little backpacks are ideal since don't add frontal area and may even fill in low pressure zones behind you or the bike. The orange English Cycles bike in the thumbnail is a great example of that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hn3RdYptgbKomdE

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

In the meantime, CyclingAbout did a video on the topic. His content is consistently very high quality and focused on extended cycle touring. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5bCha1tmpV3o6c

[@stangoodvibes]

@@overbikedrandonneuring I found the packing video just after I posted above. Sorry. I didn't even know what randonneuring was until I saw your videos while searching aero bars for road bikes. Looks fun...kinda 🙂 I did wonder - would the triathlon double-water-bottleholders that mount behind the seat be good for randonneuring? you could have one with water and another with your favorite electolyte/energy mix and it puts the weight in a good place while being tucked in behind your body out of the wind, and frees up space in your triangle to put more little bags etc. Also solves the issue of having that second bottle on your aerobars affecting the steering.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@stangoodvibes There are pros and cons to different bottle positions, and I do plan to make a video covering that this summer. Behind the seat is probably the most aero, but least convenient to use while also taking the space that could be used for a saddle pack. I always kick the bottle hiking my leg over the seat when I use it. Side loading bottle cages are a great way to fit bottles and a frame bag in a larger frame triangle, or just fit large bottles in a small frame triangle. Lots of other options too, so stay tuned!

[@034BAL]

Am I missing something? It is my understanding that Randonneuring is not racing and as such does not prioritize performance to the degree that is suggested in this presentation. Is not that th reason why the time limits are so generous? This level of technical efficiency is more suited for amateur and professional racers where every second counts.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

The main point is that randonneuring is a hard event and becomes harder with slow equipment choices. As someone who has DNFd and nearly timed out of my fair share of brevets before adjusting my equipment and technique, I can confidently say fueling, hydration, sleep, fatigue, and in-ride rest all benefit from a fast setup whether you actually go faster, use less effort to go the same speed, or somewhere in between. A fast setup gives more buffer to getting lost, having mechanicals, or enjoying side activities like photography, being social, or enjoying restaurants and sights along the way. Of course this isn't the only consideration for equipment. Check out my videos on comfort, gearing, and pacing which combine to give a more holistic perspective on how equipment choices support successful riding strategies for randonneuring.

[@CSDragon]

Ah, so THIS is where Randon got his name

[@rpiereck74]

Where in Korea are you? I'm in Pyeongtaek, outside Humphreys.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

I'm down in Gwangju now. Back when I lived in Seoul, a few brevet and Fleche routes would pass through Pyeongtaek. Good memories riding through the countryside nearby, and even rumbling through some industrial areas. Have you been able to do any of the Seoul or Cheonan brevet series?

[@rpiereck74]

@@overbikedrandonneuring no I have not. I have gotten back into cycling after many years away from it. Back in 2006 I used to do 4,000 miles a year. Now I'm up to the point where a 60 km ride is possible. I have a child in middle school, so weekend rides are tough for me. I'm hoping to get into randonneuring here, and I see there is a 100 km ride next year. I hope to do that one, and I'm looking forward to start training.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@rpiereck74 Welcome back to endurance cycling! Getting started can be pretty tough, especially when memories of past fitness haunt you. I had to think of it as a long-term process was when I was getting my legs back a few years ago, just to avoid feeling blue. The first minor uphill, and I was in the lowest gear and out of breath within a minute. Getting comfortable on the road instead of the bike path was also a challenge mentally at first. Good luck as you get started back. Let me know if there is any specific content that might help you out. If fitness progresses quicker than expected for you, the 200 당진 (북) course is a flat (for Korea) option too.

[@leobesa2887]

How fast is fast bike? Give me numbers please.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

For endurance road cycling and assuming your fit is dialed in, a fast bike would have, in order of importance: 1. tires that test around or below 10w (crr .003, ultra high pressure) or 15w (crr .0045, medium pressure) on bicyclerollingresistance.com, set at appropriate pressure for your system weight and conditions (SRAM AXS tire pressure calc). 2. Packing system that is in-line with the frame and handlebars, or in the wind-shadow of the rider can improve CdA by about .03 vs using a handlebar roll. 3. Clean, well lubed chain that is within it's useful life saves about 2-5% of total rider energy output vs dirty old chain. 4. Bike+carried gear weight can be especially important to light riders in hilly areas, but is also largely budget dependent. Those with lots of money may want to target sub-8kg bare bikes. For the rest of us, there is no reason to go over 10kg. Carried equipment weight is ride and weather dependent. 5. Aero bars, for those who enjoy them, offer about .07 CdA savings when used. They are not for everyone though.

[@leobesa2887]

@@overbikedrandonneuring thanks for the reply!but in terms of kilometers per hour, how fast is fast?

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

@@leobesa2887 Cycling speed is pretty much a math equation. The bike contains parts of several variables, but your size, weight, riding position, clothing, power curve (watts for a given amount of time), as well as the riding conditions like elevation change, wind, and road roughness are important variables too. Examples from this video in the two left columns around the 19 minute mark estimate speeds I would see riding a slow and fast bike at power I would use for very long rides. The difference in speed is about 20% for most conditions.

[@milchkopf3881]

146

[@user-hn5kh7qt9r]

This is completely mind numingly boring! Just get on the bike and pedal. Watts and rolling resistance are just what some of us want to get away from.

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

I want to get away from watts and rolling resistance too, which is where good equipment choice comes in. Randonneuring is non-competitive, but it is still quite hard. I have friends who quit the sport, and others who were interested but didn't take to it. Almost all of them rode slow bikes. A fast bike would have saved energy, reduced intensity, and allowed a bit more sleep or rest on 400km+ rides. These compound to reduce fatigue, which results in a more positive experience. Maybe they would still be randonneurs had they ridden fast bikes. Funny, on the rides themselves, none of this gets considered. It's as if preparation and the actual activities are separate. This channel's focus is to help people succeed at the sport and explore best practices for that success. Charisma may not be my strong point, but there is a gap in perspective I am trying to fill. If you are a recreational rider, a lot of my content may not apply to you. It sounds like you might not know about the sport. You can find your local club here: www.randonneursmondiaux.org/52-Country_Organizations.html

[@stibra101]

Bike behind you is not fast at all

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Haha, you are correct. It was the only bike locally available in my size at the time. Did the best I could with the 4 characteristics from the video. Good wheels and tires, clean drivetrain, and no bulky bags for very long rides. It collected a handful of Strava KOMs for what it's worth, but would always be a pig on the climbs and a brick in the wind relative to any decent road bike. Still quicker than many bikes ridden by randonneurs, but the replacement is proving to be a significant upgrade.

[@Tarmaccyclocross]

A heavy disc brake bike is not fast

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

😂