Toyota 22RE dual row timing chain cover upgrade & LCE Pro Cylinder head / EFI cam installation tips

[@chago520]

Good videos is gonna help me a lot rebuilding my engine of my 94 Toyota 22RE. I am barely watching your videos,..

[@4gunner]

Most informative and well filmed video on a 22r/re motor I have yet to see! Thank you!

[@ray5961]

Thanks man! Appreciate it.

[@cbh148]

When I had my 22RE out of my '94 Xtracab due to broken chain guides getting upgraded plus a new clutch and other jobs, I had it nice and clean like that and it was so nice. But, being a 4x4, you can imagine how long that cleanliness lasted. I never removed the head from mine, and it's at 207k and consumes about 1.5 qts every 3k miles, and some of the exhaust studs have stripped the threads out of the head during header install, so I'm considering replacing the head with one of those new ones that come with some of the mild upgrades. But it's my daily driver so if that ever happened, it'd be down the road once I get an extra vehicle.

[@ray5961]

I sell some real nice Titanium exhaust studs on ebay... that's what I use on my 22RE. RaceTi sells some nice M10 Titanium nuts. The cylinder head on my motor originally had some stripped threads and I had to repair them using time-serts

[@andrewnaponic9665]

Great info! Thanks

[@AMZHikes]

Hi Ray, Just wanted to know the torque specs for the timing chain tensioner ? Also it is the LCE dual chain kit! Thanks for all the informative 22re videos!! Andy

[@ray5961]

It should be in their instructions or on their website. It's not very much as I remember. I used higher grade bolts on mine, but I just use some blue or red loctite on those, with flex washers and tighten them down tight by hand myself.

[@AMZHikes]

Hey Ray, Thanks for the info!

[@damnitdang]

I use hitak, good stuff too for gasket

[@mochachoco1820]

Why were you rebuilding your engine in the vehicle and not on an engine stand? It would seem much faster and easier access for all parts all the way around. Also a lot quicker.

[@ray5961]

Yes, pulling the motor would have been better. I just didn't have my hoist setup at the time and things went from a small project to a bigger project as time went on.

[@taylordisbrow9131]

What kind of ultrasonic cleaner do you have? I'm looking for one.

[@ray5961]

It's just one of those ones off amazon or ebay. I don't remember for sure where it came from. My amazon orders say Kendal but they have since changed the look of it. I believe it's 3 quarts and 220 watts. It's great for small stuff, like nuts and bolts or small tool parts and stuff.

[@iwatchit]

Great video , what alternator is that ?

[@ray5961]

Thanks! It's this one here www.lceperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1080005

[@CNAEVR]

Looks like you installed the timing cover without dropping the oil pan! The Chilton/Haynes manual says to drop the oil pan, but to do that you have to drop the front differential (mine's 4WD, yours isn't obv); I don't really want to do that - looks like I can get away doing it as you did (leaving the pan on), unless maybe I missed something. Anyone have experience trying this successfully (leaving the pan on?) - thanks!

[@ray5961]

In this case (because I had the cylinder head off), yes I was able to install the timing cover without having to drop the pan. I just put some RTV ultra black down there and then snugged up the front bolts between the pan and the bottom of the cover. Now, if you have the cylinder head on, it might be a little bit tighter fit, although it can still be done without removing the pan totally (as long as there is no cork oil pan gasket). If you loosen all the bolts holding the pan, you can pull it down slightly and gain enough room to slip the front cover into place (even with the cylinder head bolted down). If you check some of my more recent videos, I do that on my friend's truck (although I did end up pulling the pan to clean it in the end). But if you are careful, you can slip the front cover on and off and then just seal things up using RTV carefully at the top and bottom. It's not ideal, but you can accomplish it. What you wanna do is test putting the front cover on and off before getting RTV on there. Just put some WD40 on the indexing pins so the cover doesn't grab on and get stuck. But basically the cover can slide in and out between the oil pan and head without too much problem as long as you are careful. Sometimes you have to get some copper shim stock to help out or use like a super thin sheet of stainless to help the pan slip in under the head gasket part there, but you can do it. Make sure to pull the radiator so you have plenty of room to work.

[@CNAEVR]

@@ray5961 awesome - that’s all the encouragement I needed! Thanks so much for the quick response - I really appreciate you and your channel. I’m going to give it a shot!

[@ray5961]

@@CNAEVR Yeah, it shouldn't be too difficult to pull off.

[@CNAEVR]

@@ray5961 something I noticed when pulling off the head; the intake manifold is absolutely full of oil residue. It’s coming in thru the throttle body ( not sure what would cause this). The reason I pulled the head was due to a severe oil leak where the head sits atop the timing cover (apparently someone attempted the replacement of the timing cover gasket like we’re discussing previously, but didn’t do a good job). Also, I was hoping to see an obvious head gasket failure (in addition to the oil leaking out of the front) which could explain the white smoke that lasts for about 10 minutes on startup, then disappears for the rest of the day. So yeah, I’ve got a few issues to work thru.

[@ray5961]

@@CNAEVR The intake plenum and runners can be pretty junked up inside due to the ERG system circulating exhaust in there. Also, if your PCV system is stuck open, it will suck in a lot of oil. Sounds like your motor just needs some TLC. As far as oil up to the cylinder head, there is just one passage that runs up the forward head bolt to the valve train and then all the oil drains out at the back of the head. Check some of my videos for the head gasket to use.. it's the Permatex PT one... way better than OEM... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2CA4A

[@Sith_dude]

Use an oem toyota gasket set. Felpro is garbage. I had a felpro headgasket blow at each cylinder crimp after only 65k.

[@ray5961]

Do you have a part # for the Fel Pro gasket you used specifically? I'm not a huge fan of their normal one, but I do like their PT version; it has some Kevlar and Telfon reinforcement which I like and it seems to be very nice quality from what I could tell. A lot of blown head gasket issues can be caused by block/head prep also. I had a Stone OEM head gasket but wasn't super impressed with it as compared to the Fel Pro PT one. As a rule, however, I'm with ya.. OEM gaskets are generally the way to go. Check out that Fel Pro PT gasket next time you're in an auto parts store and let me know what you think.

[@Sith_dude]

@ray5961 felpro is ok to use on a small block Chevy or Ford engine but never use em on Toyota, Honda, or Subaru Motors. I've been building motors since the 90s. Felpro used to be decent, but I wouldn't use them on anything nowadays.

[@ray5961]

I'm with ya on Japanese quality brother!