Toyota Pickup 22RE head gasket LCE cylinder head Pro EFI cam upgrade block cleaning dual row timing

This is just a quick update video on how the 1990 Toyota Pickup truck is coming along. I'm cleaning the short block and getting ready to install a new LC Engineering cylinder head and camshaft. Also cleaning the block a bit before installing a new head gasket (either a Stone gasket or a Fel-pro Perma Torque (but not the MLS one). Anyway, enjoy the video!

[@ddoormatt4834]

Sheesh wish I had the money to treat my 22re like that. Impressive stuff.

[@ray5961]

Thanks man! Yeah, I am trying to rebuild it so it will last a while. If it comes down to new head bolts or eating, I just basically go without food :)

[@westinjesus1101]

I guess it's kind of off topic but does anyone know of a good place to watch newly released movies online?

[@toyotabucket9726]

All that money on a 2wd 🥴

[@ray5961]

Yeah, I bought a 2WD specifically. This is more of on road than off road. Also, I'm installing an E-locker in the back, which makes it pretty much as capable as 4x4 (which only drives 2 wheels anyways, without a locker). 2WD is around 800 lb lighter, so as far as building a sleeper, that's better than having 4x4 for my situation. Now, if I was gonna go rock crawling, then yea for sure :-) But the long term plan is to install a turbo charged 3RZ-FE, the e-locker and then drive this truck mainly between stops lights and surprise unsuspecting Ferrari owners.

[@johnswennumsom5258]

Hey Ray, Amazing work here. I’ve been watching your videos off and on for a few weeks. I have an 81 pickup, 86 4Runner, and 95 pickup, all 22r/re powered. So, it’s become a bit of an obsession of mine too. Great information here on tools and processes. I’m curious about how you cleaned the inside of the block.. you mentioned something about citric acid solution etc., but how did you flush it and deal with the mess? I’m picturing a small kiddy pool below the truck to catch the fluids, but that’s just imagination at work. I’d love to know a little more detail. Also, when sanding and scraping the block deck, how did you tackle materials falling into the water jackets? Again, I’m extremely impressed with the methods and attention to detail. Thanks

[@tedbastwock3810]

95 pickup with 22re??

[@Elijah-k9g]

If you’re converting to dual chain, do you have to get a LCE dual timing chain cover or can you use the stock timing chain cover?

[@ray5961]

I'm not totally sure, but I would think you probably need the cover setup for the dual row.

[@scrappyjackalope9558]

The timing cover is thin in that areas since they are using a early cover. They machine it to work with the later block. I believe they get unfinished cover as far as the upper hole then finish they way they need. It is thin but I have run them for years and hundreds of thousands of miles with no issues.

[@ray5961]

Thanks for the info on that! Good to know.

[@scrappyjackalope9558]

@@ray5961 the 84 and earlier cover( which accepts the double chain) had a 5mm higher deck height on the block. So they cut the top and punch the holes. Just a little more info for you 🙂

[@ray5961]

​@@scrappyjackalope9558 Interesting. I definitely like having the dual row chain upgrade on my 22RE

[@gsxrtx537]

Great video and commentary. Wish you were my neighbor as I am going to be doing this soon. Thx again!

[@ivanmanist]

Hey Ray Stone/Ishino is the OEM supplier for Toyota and most Japanese manufacturers.

[@ray5961]

ok thanks! Yeah, the Stone gasket looks nice. I'm probably going to opt to go with the non-MLS version of the Fel-pro PermaTorque gasket on the 22RE. I was just talking to them this morning on the phone and their engineers said it's a nice gasket which uses a PTFE (Teflon) surface that resists aluminum vs. cast iron expansion better than graphite. It also has made partially from Kevlar, so I will probably go with that over the Stone, although the Stone does look good. Thanks for the info on that Ivan!

[@Amylopez12]

I have a 1994 Toyota 22re I need help for cylinder head torque how much foot pounds and how many time to torque

[@ray5961]

Also google it or get a service manual so you have all the info, but myself I did 20, 40, 63... then after about 500 miles, I checked the torque and went to 65/66. Use a sharpie and number the bolts so you stay in the correct sequence when torquing. Also oil on the threads.

[@badavis84]

12mm bottoming tap ...... X 1.25 or 1.75???

[@ray5961]

M12x1.25 on the 22RE head bolts.

[@Greenrosettas]

How's the truck doing these days?

[@ray5961]

Running great. I'm swapping a new oil pan on right now actually.

[@Greenrosettas]

@ray5961 Thank you for the great videos and for sharing your expertise.

[@ray5961]

@@Greenrosettas Thanks a lot! I appreciate it. Hopefully more videos coming soon.

[@hugoateca2813]

22r the king 4 cylinder in the world

[@flyprincess69]

Good information. Im thinking I’ll be doing this soon…

[@autostationfanatic]

Awesome video, I'm also in the process

[@ray5961]

Thanks!

[@tedbastwock3810]

Is pressurized water into the water jacket of the engine block a no-no?

[@ray5961]

Not sure exactly what you are getting at. Do you mean like sticking a pressure washer down there to blast stuff out? A lot would depend on how far disassembled the motor is, etc. Let me know specifically what you are asking here. But the block is designed to withstand some water pressure due to the heating system, which typically reaches maybe 10-12 PSI of water pressure (depending on your radiator cap, etc.). But there are other way to clean the interior of the engine block, which don't require high pressure water. It just depends what you are trying to accomplish.

[@tedbastwock3810]

@@ray5961 Right, and thanks, Yes I mean if the goal is to clean out the gunk I was wondering about the possibility of flushing the chambers. I didnt realize that psi limit, so I guess one would need to be careful for that.

[@ray5961]

@@tedbastwock3810 Yeah, I mean you could use that method; I don't think pressure would be a factor. Even if you used the straight nozzle that sprays a straight stream, it should be fine. However, if the block is still in the engine bay and/or you have pistons and everything still in the mix, I would be more worried about residual spray and debris getting all over the place (especially around your piston rings, etc.). The method I used was to just block off the coolant exit on the front of the block and then fill the block up with evap-o-rust and then use a wooden stick to reach down in there and knock loose all the rusty bits. It worked remarkably well and didn't make a huge mess all over. I attached a small hose to my shop vac and sucked everything up and out. Then drained the block and flushed it with distilled water and then blew the water out with my air compressor. It wasn't too bad of a job and left the inside of the block super clean. I was kinda shocked how well it worked actually.

[@tedbastwock3810]

@@ray5961 Ah, I see, that makes perfect sense. Thanks!!

[@ray5961]

@@tedbastwock3810 Yeah, good luck over there!

[@monksotheasin3366]

I like your truck

[@ray5961]

Thanks! I do too. It's super fun to drive.