RB26 FULL ENGINE BUILD || Episode 14: Kelford Camshafts Installation & Checking Valve Lash

[@BourneThisWay]

I thought there was a sequence for tighten and loosening the cam bolts. In the manual, it says something like the cams should be at their timing mark and then tightened by alternating left and right toward the middle. But your method in the video makes sense as well. I followed the removal sequence from the manual and my OEM can still bind a little at the front.

[@boost.factory]

Yes, I mention in our rb25 cylinder head video that this is not the oem procedure. This is my own install method that works better for a high lift cam and simplifies it from the unnessecary shifting around tightening bolts. Allowing you to focus on 2 caps instead of 7, + the front thrust as mentioned.

[@rnginu59]

Love watching these episodes! Thanks

[@Kelford-Cams]

This is a fantastic video team - really useful information on the process! Great job 👏

[@boost.factory]

We Appreciate that Lads!

[@Freelanc3r565]

So im using the same tomei cam cap studs and it says to use thread locker and i see youre not using any. Does it matter if you do or dont?

[@boost.factory]

I prefer not to as it is more of a permanent install with lock tight making it much harder to remove later if needed. as long as they are torqued down correctly and you are attentive as to if one loosens off when you remove the nut from a cap you should not have any issues! side note ARP Also mentions the use of lock tight when installing head studs, they only note it is for a more permanent install. this same idea carries through to any stud.

[@rfcamaro89]

I have been researching for a long time, but is there some good data somewhere that shows or discusses how the duration and lift affects the power bands in an RB26? Tomei Japan vs HKS vs Jun vs Kelford etc. Matching duration vs offset (like stock)? I am having a hell of a hard time selecting the best cams for my goals. Even after talking to some shops.

[@boost.factory]

This is the problem most people face, but dont be discouraged. it's far less complicated than most make it seem. There is a happy medium with every setup. In a turbo application you need to match the amount of lift and duration to the size of turbo, this relationship comes down to air flow the turbo can move vs the air flow the cam will allow ( valve size and port work also have an effect of course). For example A cam to big will hurt low end power but flow up high, now if your turbo is smaller and caps out before the cam shaft even reaches is most efficient range, you are hurting your power capability. Kelford is an excellent manufacturer as they publish recommend turbo sizes for their cam shaft sizes. Making it easy to quickly reference the turbo I'm Milimeters.

[@rfcamaro89]

@@boost.factory that is super helpful. In my RB26 I'm targeting roughly mid 500's whp on pump, but quick spool and response is priority. I'd sacrifice some top end HP for faster spool and "street/butt dyno feel". Based on Kelford's data, with a 62mm-ish turbo like a G35-900, camshafts with duration around 260-264 and lift of 8.9mm+/- to 9.9mm+/-. Based on the descriptions, the Kelford 264 low lift might be the best call, for a 62mm turbo.