RC Stock Racing, Upgrades, and the R1 B7

[@RyanHarrisRC]

Hey now! Im not that old 😅 The answer to this is run more Nitro. And ride dirt bikes 🤘

[@HookedUpRacing2024]

#Troof. Nitro is really the glory.

[@thriftest]

Woah, the man!

[@jamesmooney7538]

If your dirt bike skills were good as your rc skills LOL

[@danatinnel3758]

@@RyanHarrisRC I guess I’m following Ryan since I’m in nitro now too 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@DirtConcept]

I endorse this message. 🤙

[@Gavs_rc_hobbies]

Totally agree. So many times I've seen guys telling newbies that they need this, that and the other to be competitive in stock and you see the dejectected look on their face as the guy walks away thinking that they've got into the wrong hobby. I just wait for the "experts" to walk away and tell them that they don't need all that expensive snake oil, and just focus on setup, get some practice in, and just let your skill develop over time.

[@TeamAbrams]

There's definitely way too much of the Keeping Up with the Jones's mentality in r/c racing, especially for guys who can't stay on the same lap as the pros in a 5 minute heat race. If you can't do that, you're not losing because of equipment, but so many people get wrapped up in that BS. And the great thing about the new tech is, over the years both the equipment gap and the knowledge gap between pros and joes has diminished greatly in my experience. When my dad and I went to my first ROAR Nationals in 2003, I was 12 years old and had been racing for 3 years at that point. We didn't have a ton of money and we weren't sponsored but despite that, I managed to qualify in the D Main in Mod 2wd Buggy (it went down to the J Main that year I believe), beating out some good sponsored drivers who were fast in that region, but in Mod Truck I could only manage the E Main despite that field not being as deep. But my dad and I had made the decision to try our brand new 3300MAH NiMH batteries in buggy because it was my stronger class of the two, and we stuck our old 2600MAH NiCAD batteries in the truck. The track was big, it was the Tiltyard in Dayton, VA and it was really more of a 1/8 scale track, and in truck my batteries were dumping before the 4 minute mark. Didn't help that we didn't have time to refresh the transmission bearings in the truck either. We definitely had a self imposed equipment disadvantage that weekend despite the event having controlled tires in an attempt to even out the field. Point is though, I was running 12 laps in qualifying for 2wd buggy, same as the pros, but I could only do 11 laps in truck. Safe to say, that would not happen today as battery and motor technology has come very far from that in 20 years, but that was the case at the time.

[@TR.Pixels]

Old saying goes "you can have all the gear but have no idea." If you can get good with a true stock chassis, then you'll find benefit in upgrades. For newcomers I would recommend ignoring anyone that says "get this get that", use what you have and become proficient with it through practice and slight setup changes.

[@BigBensOutdoors]

Nailed it. When I got back into the hobby I spent a stupid amount on a TLR 22 5.0 after watching Ryan Harris' videos. I've eventually gotten the car to be OK but continually I get my ass handed to me by kids with tons of track time running absolutely ratted out cars on budget gear. My favorite 2wd car is my carpet car - a used B6.3 that I think I have a total of $350 into. Despite what Ryan and others said about used cars, it's been solid for me aside from when I crash it and have to buy parts. :)

[@ESPonMe]

Buying use for someone in actual competition may be an issue. But club racing, having fun, etc nothing wrong with used cars

[@GarethJaineRCRacing]

Uk racer here. It’s amusing how in mod you run any motor any batteries and go well. Yet in stock you need hand picked motors and the best lipos discharged and charged at 35A to get the lowest IR etc to do well. I missed the boat on getting my order in for the B7 and I think I might of dodged a bullet. I got mine from the 2nd batch, affectionately known as the revised kits. No issues at all having run it in my regional series. Astro and grass tracks. This was the first video I’ve seen of yours and it was a good one. Keep up the good work!

[@Glocktologist]

The point is: you don’t actually need all of that to do well in Stock. If you get lapped during a heat it’s not because you didn’t have the latest hand-picked motor and a full Ti bling kit on your buggy. You can take the winner of any class, switch all upgraded parts to stock ones, and they would still be competing for the first spot. Conversely, you could sponsor a 2000 dollar car to someone at the tail end of C finals and they would still be back there.

[@rcisfun2329]

Good rant Roach!

[@robertparenti6265]

When I got back into RC a few years ago, I went the “stock” route. Mind you the last time I raced stock it was just that. A regulated stock class. After seeing what people were doing, I decided to just get into 1/8 nitro buggies. And I haven’t looked back. Great video!

[@extec101]

To quote days of thunder "theirs noting stock about stock cars"

[@Jamesuni]

I thought that price was gonna be even higher. I was that person you're ranting to. I thought high powered lightweight was the ticket... then I realized i couldn't drive yet. Thank you for sharing your thoughts, you're insightful.

[@JeepinIvan_MTB]

Wish I watched this video before purchasing all the upgrades I was told I needed to get right out of the box lol. It’s true, it all comes down to the driver, not all the upgrades you can get installed on your rc. Yeah, it looks cool and if the person has the money sure, why not but for the average person who wants to get into racing or simply into the hobby you are 100% right, it is not needed at all. Great video and thanks for explaining this.

[@marinearmeni]

Great video! Stock class always drives me crazy. One of the things I love about 8th scale is that we have too much power and it's up to the driver to either handle it or tune it down and make it easier to drive. Both of those are easier and cheaper than trying to extract every bit of power out of you motor/esc/batteries. When I ran 10th scale mod 4wd I would usually run a 8.5 motor because I knew I couldn't handle a 5.5 or even a 6.5 motor.

[@rcvalleyadventure2946]

Loved the video. Racer from way back. Original RC10T, RC1OGT, Traxxas Nitro Hawk. Anyway, in total agreement. Owned an outdoor dirt off-road track in the late 90s till early 2000s. What you're talking about is what I used to call pricing out. Racing was extremely popular. But the motor was just awful until brushless became popular. The newbies were trying to buy speed. Expert stock was usually faster than the mod class. Mods not needed.

[@Petriefied0246]

I like that you use my car footage as B roll, especially when you're talking about unnecessary upgrades! The front of my car has Rudebits m3.5 titanium turnbuckles and the Exotek hub carriers for durability reasons. To finish first you need to finish!

[@extec101]

I do agree with roach, its better to learn to drive the car and get a good setup then drop the cost of another car on titanium and other cosmetic option parts that mostly do nothing for the new drivers. I can understand the companys saying you need this and that expensive option part its their profit and bread on the table that keep them alive. As an Xray xb2 driver i can say that the only two option parts for reliability on an xb2-24 that is needed is front bulkhead and rear rollcenter holder not more not less, the cars is good with the right setup.

[@benburnett2159]

Wow awesome tracks and damn they some good drivers 🎉

[@davebutler4959]

Well stated Roachrc. I love the competition of racing and find that many get hung up on hot laps and average times and making the A, this can cause stress at times. Though we have some awesome tracks nearby I have seen 1/10 racing struggle the past several years, I don’t know all the reasons for this but my hope is that people will rejoin because it’s ok to take breaks, try new things and resume with this great hobby!

[@Teddybandzz]

I got caught up in the buy all the titanium and carbon parts for my 17.5 carpet car just to end up having to put weight back in it to meet ROAR weight limit again 😅

[@MrRebel816]

FORC! Its nice to see my local track on here.

[@DirtConcept]

🙌

[@robertbritton4700]

I was actually surprised I found a video of FORC. Been racing there a couple years mow. Wish I would have got into the outdoor racing this summer.

[@UnrivaledPiercer]

I'm still racing my B6.4, and I have no plans to switch to a B7 right now. For someone of my skill level (above average amateur) the B6.4 is more than enough car. I did the titanium screws and turnbuckles, the carbon bits and so on. My car wasn't a cheap build, but I know the car is not what is holding me back. In the club races I attend, I am confident that the car is capable of podium regularly, even against max spec B7's and anything else. The only thing I need to worry about now is driver skill, the more I practice the better I will get. The car is not my weak point anymore. By the time this car is my weak point, the B8 will likely be out. So as long as I can find parts for the B6.4, I will not change it.

[@dirtrider88]

a completely stock car out of the box wouldnt hold you back.

[@extec101]

Rather run a b6.4 then a b7 as i dont feel i got time to fix a blown gearbox every time the car is used. Also b6.4 got the option dirt gearbox so its not stuck with only one option on gearbox for weight distrubution.

[@rctrophychasers]

Love this! ❤ well put Roachrc 👏

[@tugie29]

Great video, the things you brought up is what keep new racers away. They think they need to run all the hop ups instead of just running laps.

[@suoerfish6652]

Footage is so clean. You're doing great man!

[@RoachRC]

Appreciate it my old guardian

[@IMGONEIN60]

Great info, I used to race when I was 16 years old when you had to build your own kit and the associated RC10 was killing everything. I’m 52 years old now and I’ve gotten back into RC. I actually have my own track on my property near San Antonio. Everything is so expensive, but I love the hobby, I have a couple of Team Corally Syncro 4s buggies that are amazing as rental units. At $369 I have no idea why everyone isn’t racing this buggy, especially beginners. Thanks again for the video👍🏽

[@SupperGammer]

I will be! Right after the winter break I'll be starting my first ever racing season with a Syncro4 just to see how I like it in that community. If nothing more I have a pretty solid 4S buggy in the end haha.

[@daviddetweiler7658]

I agree on all this points after 15 years in&out of racing on and off road. People are too quick to blame the equipment and not have any sort of self reflection on whether or not they're the problem. I think it stinks to see a whole host of option parts offered right off the bat for these cars but I get it's necessary

[@KnockedSoup]

I think raising minimum weight requirements to near box stock would aid a lot of these issues, but selling these hop ups are a vital part of the rc economy even if some of them are snake oil. Super high grip tracks like you see in 1/10 are also going to make racing more setup dependent and less skill based.

[@3DRCRACER]

I never upgraded to a B7, I am still running my B6.4D. I got it in December & I was coming from on-road at the time. I did not really know the B7 was coming out. Overall I have no issues with the B6.4D and since there is still good parts support I am not planning to upgrade. I did get a B74.2 which I like a lot, but the B6.4D is still a solid buggy.

[@Powerpickle68]

In my opinion, the entire issue starts with the word "stock" I agree that all of the hop-ups are not needed, upgrade one's skill before parts unless of course there is a fragile piece etc. The top rated drivers already have the skill/knowledge, too many people believe that it is the parts that make them fast.

[@RCKickschannel]

Great video with some solid points for sure.

[@RoachRC]

Didn't expect to see you here. Welcome 👍

[@wolf16731]

Thats the thing about 1/10 scale racing. Stock isn't really stock. Any time you have a race class that has a motor limit, you are going to have guys that try to maximize every drop of power they can get out of it. If that means zapping batteries, buying multiple high dollar motors and putting them on an analyzer to try to have the fastest motor, bearings with the least amount of rolling resistance, or getting the lightest version of every part you can then so be it. Before you know it, its easy to have a 1/10 stock class car that can cost as much as an 1/8 buggy. In truth, 1/8 ebuggy is probably the fairest "stock" style racing you are going to get.

[@chocolateapocalypse]

Considering that the fast stock guys lap times aren't that much slower than those running mod, sometimes faster, I don't know why we don't do what the rest of the world does and just run mod. 2wd, 4wd, ST and SCT are the only classes, no locked timing, no sportsman/intermediate/expert, just mod. Well, Novice with a motor limit would probably still be a good idea lol However, there is so much money involved in stock racing I don't think that will ever happen, it's a shame. That being said, I run stock and absolutely spend way more on my cars/electronics than I need to. Not that I think I have to in order to be competitive, I just enjoy tinkering. Great vid!

[@extec101]

The company that sell stock engines and parts are happy as people buy plenty of stuff so its in their interest to to keep the class running in big numbers.

[@TeamAbrams]

Because we as Americans feel entitled to have a chance to win at any time, no matter how much practice we put in, and we get mad when somebody is naturally better or more experienced. Big 1/8 events are ridiculous nowadays, 5 different categories for 1 class, Pro, Expert, Intermediate, Sportsman, 40+...and there is zero standard besides being a factory driver (you can still run Pro without being a factory driver though) or being over 40 for separating the categories. And then you run it back for Nitro Buggy, E Buggy, Nitro Truck. And then you have 40+ guys double dipping so they get twice as much track time as the rest of us, creating an unfair advantage and making the event take much longer than it needs to be. It was honestly way better when everybody just ran the same class. Oh, and I can't forget what I call the "Snowflake podium," where the top 5 get on the podium instead of the top 3.

[@rcvg69420]

Justock spec motor classes help keep costs down too. I run a b6.4 with a slipper eliminator and no hopups and it's got no problem being competitive in the justock class. And while obviously out mph'ed in open 21.5 I can tell if someone with real skill was driving it it could still win. All I've done is take the weight plates out and with a 4900mah pack it's already as light as what's allowed. And a 21.5t motor doesn't even discharge a 4900mah below 4 volts per cell in a single heat so I see no real reason to get the rest of the car lighter to run a bigger battery. Very fun and stable car to drive! What I'm trying to say is if the setup is ok, you're on the right tires, and the field has the same turn count motors in the cars, at a club level it's always going to be the most consistent driver that wins or at least podiums and having ceramic bearings or titanium screws isn't relevant.

[@kajex1rc351]

agreed 💯

[@jonthomas8487]

Great video. I don’t currently race. I mainly just build and have vintage cars. I’d like to get some vintage racing started

[@theaaronritter9513]

see i would have thought "stock" meant either as a rtr or as it comes in the box as a kit, no upgrades, and something like that would be in a mod type class

[@Glocktologist]

Then the next buggy released by any manufacturer would simply have all the upgrades included as standard equipment. ”It’s stock if it came with the kit” is a short-sighted idea unless you make a list of approved models and have a board of people judging which new releases are allowed and which ones are not.

[@625rfulcher]

Just curious when you mention alternatives to AE B7 why you did not mention Schumacher LD3? Since you have some experience with it I was curious why you did not list that as a good option?

[@RoachRC]

The LD3 is a very good car for a more experienced driver and tuner. There's a lot you can do to make it work for your track. Only thing is for a newer driver those tuning options can feel a bit overwhelming. In hindsight, I probably should have mentioned them anyway

[@625rfulcher]

@@RoachRC I can see that. Also after posting my original comment, I wasn't sure what the price comparison was. I looked it up and It is more expensive than the B7, so its not as beginner friendly from a kit cost perspective. Great video, forgot to all that, very nice job.

[@Chimer34]

I agree! Why doesn't anyone sell a RTR 2wd Buggy that includes a 17.5 motor? Many people turn away when they hear they have to buy a motor right away. i always encourage new racers to buy a car at the track they are racing at so parts will be available.

[@rccarduderobichaud1454]

Perfectly said. So all that "R and D" and they botched up the first batch!?!? 🤔 Not a company I would invest in!!! I used to be a hard core Associated fan and owner, but have no interest in a company that makes money hand over fist compared to others that can not keep the price down for the beginners! Especially when they know, as you pointed out, how much the beginner needs to spend on electronics etc etc to get going!!! I hate seeing newbies getting frustrated with what is an ABSOLUTELY awesome hobby.!.! I think the best is for those looking to get in is to start with a RTR. You get everything you need to start, chassis can be upgraded later, but first focus on getting around the track smoothly with shock setup up and tires. Don't over think it! Just come out and have some fun!!! Side note, I was kinda wondering why I was seeing so many B7 rollers on cash4rc Ebay.!? 🤣🤣🤣

[@Harvey600]

Plus things like Titanium turnbuckles are less durable than kit steel ones, so you buy expensive Ti ones, someone hits your car in practice, they bend your spangly new turnbuckle and you have to splash more cash to actually see the benefit you thought you were getting! That was on my Mod carpet Yokomo, my mate son hit me when my car was upside down and bent my shiny new turnbuckle, by some miracle I was able to straighten it enough to still work until I had chance to replace it with B7 TI ones, 😅 It was just one of those things, 1st time trying Ti parts on my car.

[@patrickdubois7692]

Agree with your points

[@ReedMakeCar]

After learning about stock racing, I showed up to my first ever race with a blinky esc and a fixed timing 17.5 in my buggy. Problem is there are so few racers that show up that that the organizers just want cars on the track and don’t care what’s in them. I found out the hard way that everyone had a 10.5 or 13.5 motor…

[@xskyaflake]

Totally agree.

[@RazorRC]

Thanks for the shoutout! But a bit embarrasing to show my driving with much better drivers later in the video! 🫣

[@Lewis-kf2pj]

Typical tiny 🍆 yank.

[@jasonlein2849]

I'm still on my 6.4. Most of the unsponsored people I know jumped on the B7 on release. I'm more in the mindset of waiting on new product releases for the bugs to be worked out. I likely won't swap to a new platform until 7.1. As long as there is parts support, there's no rush. As for the stock thing; yes I agree it would be nice if everyone was on a more even playing field and upgrades were more limited to force people to win based on setup and driving skill instead of willingness to open up a big wallet.

[@houchaopeng275]

The fact is that people who run those hop ups and do good usually don't need to pay for them lmao. In my opinion the best solution for this is to let roar to raise the lowest weight limit a handful of grams, that way drivers neither have to concern about weight nor the chassis company has to go to extreme and sacrifice durability.

[@MRanger04]

It’s more driver than platform. I’ve seen great drivers wheel basket cases around the track and no one could touch them. I’ve seen newbies spend all sorts of money on all the good stuff and can’t do any with it.

[@dirtrider88]

i raced my 6.4 for a whole season and the only things i have upgraded are ti turnbuckles (only cause i wanted something stronger not lighter), puck system because i was tired of replacing drive cups and aluminum bell cranks to tighten up the steering. NONE of those helped me go faster. the single biggest thing to help me place better in races was consistency and the main thing to help me get there was tires. not even finding the right tire but just replacing worn out tires. i run a $120 motor, stock/oem bearings, stock shocks and my batteries are literally a year old after lots of use and work just fine. i hate to break the news but replacing every screw with titanium isnt going to make you faster.

[@twisted_caravan486]

You want budget, go slash racing. No class at your local place? Start one. The old heads Will pick it up eventually. I went to my local place and they had slash thrown in with sct. Finally started a dedicated class and it has been an absolute blast.

[@colestaples2010]

Yeah you really don’t need all those upgrades to race stock class. Only thing my b6.4 has is the lightweight drivetrain and I got some ceramic bearings for the transmission once the stock ones were wore out. Only reason to do all that is if you are fighting for first place all the time. I don’t think I’ll ever do the high amp charging either. I take care of my batteries because they are expensive. A good set up, right gearing and great tires is the real trick. Of course you need to learn to drive first 😂

[@davidfountain6934]

Excellent video man your spot on as far as 1/10 stock racing is concerned stock racing is like NASCAR it looks stock on the surface but open it up there's nothing stock about it for the money you put into a 1/10 scale stock rig that's competitive you can build a decent 1/8 ebuggy if you're new to RC racing best to start out with a 1/10 scale two-wheel drive mod buggy turn it down run novice and some club races for a while, turn it back up and have at it it's cheaper to build a mod rig then a stock rig plus you don't need to zap the batteries to go fast so your batteries last longer. Stock racing has become a weight inand money game that's not suitable for newcomers Take care man look forward to the next one!

[@agevan6735]

Well said!

[@brianmonroemodelsports21]

nailed it. i still race my old B6.1 and see no reason to buy another kit

[@warracer03]

Being not that much of a driver, I'm still able to do the A-Main with a 2018 Yokomo YZ2 Cal3 against B7's... The setup is key, 99% of people won't use the 3% more rpm the 180$ motor gives and the 4% lighter 200$ parts. To me 80% is driving 10% is setup 10% is maintenance.

[@Harvey600]

Couldn’t agree more,

[@broccli2007]

#1 upgrade is tires, you can never have enough tires! That's where about 75% of your cars ability comes from, if you're on a good set of tires for the right track surface and conditions you're 75% of the way there

[@rickzfpv3118]

Roach great video I totally agree. I don’t race 1/10 scale or 1/8 scale anymore because it got so out of control expensive. The last couple years I have been competitively racing mini z’s, as all the bigger tracks have shut down in my area. Now I see the mini z racing going down that same path. So many guys will tell you that you have to have the most expensive stuff to be competitive and that just isn’t true, my opinion is it is pushing the new people away from the hobby. I had the most fun I have had in a long time last weekend. A new indoor track opened here for 1/18 scale and mini z and we raced mini b’s and mini t’s box stock and it was so much fun

[@Glocktologist]

How can racing get out of control expensive but also the upgrades not be really necessary? Surely if one can do well with a box-stock car it’s not an expensive class to run?

[@stanleysarjali8108]

Seen too many racers turn up with shiny parts and no driving skills. We'd be betting the car will be up for sale within a month. Thats why the idea of 'stock' racing in the US has gone out the window. Its actually not easy to put a price cap on racing toy cars, so local tracks need to enforce strictly box kits for racing and handout motors. The only problem is that so many rules are open to interpretation esp with motor tuning.

[@Glocktologist]

What if a manufacturer decides to include upgrades with the buggy straight away? How do you determine which parts are stock if they all came with the kit?

[@gigasipke]

Parts availability is key to beginners.

[@ReedMakeCar]

What do you think of PR racing?

[@RoachRC]

Another brand I wish more people would try. Their cars are quite good

[@FromThisViewPoint]

I'm gonna start out with a RB10 as I'm new to the hobby and it's affordable. Just want to have fun.

[@s2kologist]

Good points. On a side note your audio really needs a de esser filter.

[@tomconnors8165]

Agama n110 on order to try racing for the first time. I am hoping they give points for looks as my main strategy.

[@bmxguy73]

ran a stock b6 and did work for 2 years. ceramic bearings are nice tho

[@Truth_Spoken]

I always thought 21.5 would make a good entry level / laid back racing class. Then 17.5 can be the class for the ultra competitive.

[@ManofManySorrows]

I race stock but I use stock kit as a whole. I spent my money on books, invisible Speed, xxx main, and the like. Then I spent days at the track. I don’t think I’ll ever buy the hop-ups, I will stick to maintenance items and tools like a good set-up station so I know my set-up is accurate. My B7D has treated me well so far, so I hope it stays that way to be honest, time will tell.

[@ohalrighthen4301]

Gutsy to make this video but 100% accurate about why RC racing has issues and hindering its growth. More videos like this should be made. My rant. Cost of RC tyres. For two pairs of Prolines I can get a mountain bike tyre which last at 20,000 times longer.

[@Glocktologist]

The ”expensive” stock class ends up being cheaper to run because of the consumable parts. Mod cars have more power so they go through tires faster and the service life of the whole drivetrain is shorter. Also, a faster car is more likely to crash and the damage is more severe.

[@josephslomka8161]

I would say the big hit and shocker as a novice for racing is how much tires cost and how important they are. No amount of motor or battery compensates for the wrong tires. Unless you are racing on only one surface tires get shockingly expensive fast. If I visit a new track I'm likely dropping $60 on tires for that track. Did I last visit the track on a 90° day and it's now 65° maybe I can get by with just softer rears and $30? And as a novice it makes the difference between mostly driving or mostly crashing.

[@deadhooligan306]

👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@johnkislinger9167]

I started racing as a kid in 1997, stock brushed motors weren’t nearly as quick as 17.5 is today, so naturally if you were decent and wanted to go faster you ran mod. Now 17.5 is about as fast as you can go on many 10th scale tracks especially if it’s indoors like many/most US tracks. I don’t have solution but wish there was a more natural way for both casual hobbyist and serious racer to enjoy the social aspect of races without taking away from either. Seems like we lost that

[@rcvalleyadventure2946]

@johnkislinger9167 bring a "Box Stock" class. Only option is tires and motors using only certain ones. That is a proven way to maintain a consistant rookie class.

[@bradkalman2353]

What do you think about the two re releases from yokomo?

[@madhousementality]

👋👋👋

[@d.r.4453]

I am kind of late to the party here having just found this video, but I think, based on reading the comments, that this might be the place to ask some questions. My son and I are really interested in buggy racing but have no idea even where to begin. We’d like to take part in some racing at the local tracks. The tracks are indoor carpet and they offer beginner races and various other levels of racing. We’d like to run a 1/10 buggy (maybe 2 buggies one for each of us). So my question is, which buggy out there would be the best/user friendly to buy for complete rookies to run pretty much out of the box? I’m guessing that 2WD is the more popular, but do 2WD race against 4WD and if so is it better for novices to choose one or the other? We don’t have the world’s biggest budget, so we’re looking at something that we could use to get our feet wet, learn with, that is dependable/durable to run in the beginner races and is upgradable for the future. I appreciate any help and knowledge that you can share. It looks like such a fun hobby, but we just want to start off on the right foot and not get over our heads. Thanks all! P.S. You got a new subscriber! Great video.

[@RoachRC]

Well to answer a few things. 2wd buggies don't race against 4wd ones most of the time. Also 2wd buggies tend to be very easy to drive on carpet than 4wd buggies. They also tend to be much cheaper, you can find a 2wd kit for around about 400 bucks not including electronics so everything included would be about give or take 800 dollars including a receiver and transmitter. As for which car you should get, this entirely depends on which one is most used at this carpet track. I'd personally go with a Mugen Msb1 base model as that comes with everything needed to run on carpet and that car will last a long time. However if everyone at the track runs the B7, grab the B7 and build it with care, or with Aluminum idler gears Next up for electronics there are a few brands to go with but the classic standbys for each part would have to be... ESC and Motor - HobbyWing Servo - Protek Receiver - Sanwa, Futaba, Flysky, and spektrum If you have any other questions feel free to DM me on FB.

[@d.r.4453]

@@RoachRC Thank you for the suggestions. Very much appreciated. We're going to visit the track tomorrow, its a bit of a hike being an hour away. But its the closest track to us. I looked online today and they have a pro shop/store at the track so hopefully they will have in stock what most people are running. Like you mentioned, if most a running a certain type of buggy then I guess it makes sense to also run that as well. Its exciting and daunting at the same time. The learning curve will be HUGE! Thank you again!

[@RoachRC]

What's the track called?

[@d.r.4453]

@@RoachRC The one we are going to is called "Get A Hobby Raceway" in Uniontown PA. There is another track farther north in Pittsburgh called "Iron City Hobbies". They have 2 tracks for different scales 1/18 and 1/10. Like I wrote earlier, they are the closest to where we are. They are probably pretty small compared to most (certainly small compared to what you are used to LOL!). But I'm sure they'll be fun.

[@danatinnel3758]

You don’t need the newest kit on the market to win!! All my wins have been on pre owned year old or older kits. The only new kit I had was the Hong Nor and that is old tech and I still won sportsman races on that thing

[@colestaples2010]

I got a first place trophy and tq with my b6.1 and 2 months later the b7 was released. I’m planning to rock my b6.4 for a while! Handed down the b6.1 to a friend

[@ronaldoravelo6107]

Do you still were a mask at any tracks? I wanna go to a track soon but I’m still scared of Covid😿😬😖😖

[@RoachRC]

Not really but you should be good if you've got the vaccine.

[@jefferykuhns9299]

I would like to hear your opinion on the difference in a hobbyist and a racer just looking for the fastest time no cap on cost. I feel like a hobbyist is looking for a good time on the track and off within a budget and a "racer" feeling like they cannot get to the top fast enough.

[@jefferykuhns9299]

I guess there should be three levels Hobbyist, Racer, and Talented (God mode).

[@skyekaptain8010]

Preach, popularity seems so 80s as of late.

[@nickpelland74]

Run on actual loose dirt with 2wd, and the aftermarket mods won't matter. Just pure driving skill. This is where racers should be cutting their teeth not on high grip consistent predictable surfaces.

[@625rfulcher]

Lets not forget everyone has to drive what they can. I have access to a carpet track, I don't have easy access to a dirt track.

[@TeamAbrams]

Real racers don't cry about not being on their ideal track surface, they embrace the challenge and strive to be better even if it's their weakest surface type. Everybody races the same track and you do your best, whether it's loose dirt, blue groove clay, astro, carpet, I don't really care. You want to be a real racer, you have to be good at all of them, not just your perfect preferred surface. Perfect surfaces are boring. Too many crybabies in r/c that throw a fit when they don't get the surface they want are killing the hobby unfortunately.

[@trevorfurlotte]

Amen!!!!! I support Spec classes. "Stock" classes are dumb. I also want to see the end of all the 8th scale classes and just do mains A through Z. Silly trophy hunters.

[@RcRalf96]

Admittedly I didn´t follow the whole B7 saga that closely, what I heard was via my local fanboys. To me it sounds a like a quality control issue. What I (and my local AE fanboy) miss from AE is a clear statement: we messed up. And something to compensate the consumer for their error. Something along the lines of: If you have a faulty part from the first batch, please return it to your local distributor, he will send you a revised one.

[@gigi9467]

Running my stock

[@DurhamCountyModelCarClub-e5k]

Hey bro, the last five mins of your video is "our" Astro track, a shout out would be nice. Thanks.

[@Ripitupfilms]

So many things I would like to comment on…

[@unorec1983]

Stock racing is the most ironic name for a class, as nothing is stock on the top guys cars

[@randyschanaman2641]

I'm a track owner and haven't seen any of the issues your talking about?????

[@RoachRC]

K

[@ThePortableHam]

Lol I can't agree more

[@jamesmooney7538]

All rc cars have flaws not only the B7..The schumacher LD3 is more fragile especially front clip constantly breaking and everything else around it....AE is has the best customer service is the reason I am still sticking around and price cost and availability....

[@thatoneguy2756]

Can we also talk about drivers screaming at Marshalls from the stand........I literally wear ear plugs to try and minimize how ridiculous these dummies sound mad cuz they driving over their skillset. Expecting turn Marshall to help them win the race

[@nick_cnc]

You know what I hate? The way the for-profit track model that's dominant in the US completely ruins the race experience by catering to the "whales" while simultaneously making the program more and more alienating to non-whales. What do I mean? Tracks will prioritize increasing entry counts regardless of the impacts to the race program. You end up with multiple classes that only have like 3 or 4 guys in it all running it as a 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and yes, even 5th class. These unpopular secondary classes make the race program take SO MUCH longer. And these guys running multiple classes on low turnout nights results in the RD having to constantly ask for volunteer marshals because no matter how the classes are arranged, there's always someone, or multiple guys, running back to back classes who aren't marshaling and aren't ensuring their duties are covered. The track owner's not going to penalize these guys because he wants their money from running so many classes, but the program grinds to a halt after every race because the RD has to beg for volunteers to make up for all the back to back racers. Then you look at a club track over in UK - for example South Cambs where all the UK youtubers race - and it's just one or two classes. And those classes are all full with multiple heats. It's a more simplified, more streamlined program. On a Friday night race, those guys get 3 heats and a main. Nowhere around me does 3 heats and a main, even on races that start in the morning and have all day. The programs just take too long because they're too bloated and always waiting for marshals. You try to point this out anywhere and you get told either 1) just buy a second car to race if you want more track time or 2) that's just the way it is and there's nothing to do about it. And of course the guys running multiple classes get defensive as hell about it and threaten to quit racing if they get penalized for not marshalling. Anyway, that's my rant.

[@jasonkessinger8062]

The thing 99% of drivers need more track time not more hop up parts.

[@Ultegra10SPD]

Sorry, but you danced around the subject without really saying anything. Probably not to make any industry folks mad. Your lone example is a racer who still has names on his shirt, is racing 13.5, not 17.5, 4wd not 2wd. You give kudos to the old car and other cars for sale by your sponsor and a couple others that people buying aren’t buying in the US. It almost sounds like a ad read. You avoided the whole issue with batteries as well battery rules not being enforced therefore people charging the snot out of their batteries, reducing their life and also increasing a huge safety risk for the entire track to get that extra pop at the beginning of a race. Let’s call a spade a spade the principal problem with stock racing is that the cars are not stock and many of the drivers don’t belong in stock with names plastered all over their shirt. Stock class cars are too fast couple that with no matter how much you need or don’t need all those extra bits when new racers or perspective racers hear the bill on what others are spending on their car. They check out. But that is not what the industry is going to push. The last thing they want is a return to chassis platforms lasting 10 years (b4) and people running two or three-year-old motors because they’re mod and they have too much hp anyway. Something is fundamentally wrong when a mod car no matter how you explain it is cheaper than a stock one. -U10

[@RoachRC]

Hmm

[@SteveSoper1979]

9:29 Every RC company out there selling these products. "Whoa, whoa whoa there buddy. What are you doing? Have you seen our profit margin on charging 200 bucks for screws we buy in bulk from China? Just stop what you're doing. Quick. Marketing get out there and push the message".

[@gordonshaw3245]

Unfortunately probably 80% of profit for rc tracks/suppliers is in parts for stock racing, take that away and I wonder how many tracks/suppliers become unviable. It sucks and I hate it but I don’t see how it’s going to go away with so much vested interest.

[@scottersandman6408]

the battle of the wallet...it can kill good driver's spirit. i have seen this so many times. work on the nut behind the wheel.

[@thriftest]

See if you saved 20 grams of non rotating weight on a 1400gram vehicle you might aave one 10th of a second over 5 minutes. You could do the math to work it out roughly. For all that money, you are better to do an extra race each week or month and avoid tagging one pipe. If you get marshalled, that is probably 100 times your gain in time from spending all the money. If you run wide on one corner, thats it, might as well be running a stock standard buggy😂

[@adrastos123]

The b7 is horrible on dirt. Need rear motor

[@unc13buck]

Stock racing is the biggest joke in the hobby, spend $800 in upgrades and a new battery every few months because you're cooking your lipo for .100

[@stevec9704]

Good video, give me an original RC10 gold pan, with worlds arms and a good battery and electronics and I’ll compete with everyone. No graphite, aluminum, titanium blah blah blah, and the car will work, easy to tune and let the driver take over. Like most things today, everyone thinks more is better, well that’s not always the case. Older more established is sometimes better.