The INJORA LCG Chassis Rig Gets EPIC!

[@elduderinolebowski5411]

One word: WOW. I don't think we've seen anything tackle all six problems so apparently effortlessly like this. Some have done certain problems better than this, others worse... but overall, nothing has just walked all six together in one go quite like this. I'm very impressed. Reasonably competitive? Understatement of the year. I think you've got a class leader here. Brilliant. Absolutely brilliant. Good work, sir. Wish I could smash that like button a bunch of times for you.

[@RCTNT]

Heh thank you. It is satisfying. But it's still going to be behind the more developed kits in higher end competition. I have a bit more I want to try yet but it has been a satisfying road to this point! Thank you kindly :)

[@iron9973]

nice , the injora LCG chassis's are nice ,and work really well

[@RCTNT]

They certainly do, though I've learned that they're often copies of other existing chassis kits, which is disappointing.

[@rcmakingtracks18]

That's a very nice looking and capable rig. Great job Craig... john

[@RCTNT]

Thank you, John. I'm sure happy with it! Cheers

[@danweiss1371]

Talk about a perfect timing video. Is me and one of my good friends we’re talking about trying one of their frame kits they’re really so reasonable. And this definitely made up my mind. Thanks.

[@RCTNT]

Ah, great! Happy to be useful :) You'll love it.

[@jimveness9375]

Great progress and great result Craig !

[@RCTNT]

Thanks, I'm happy with it!

[@mdgeist472]

Wow! That rig crushed the 6 problem course. Well done! Be interesting to see how well other LCGs do.

[@RCTNT]

The more expensive stuff will still make mine look crude in comparison, but it's now at least within reach of similar performance. Still not as good as the expensive stuff, but not too far behind!

[@brianmassey7563]

The beauty of a proper LCG setup. NIce job! I think you need printed inserts over the foams though....didn't see any real side hill action. I love the way they just pull over problems.

[@RCTNT]

Thanks Brian. 3d printed inserts, eh? That makes sense. I haven't heard of them, but I presume they're common on KZbin. (I don't spend much time on KZbin, funnily enough - too busy making videos for it!!). I'll look into this, I understand what they likely do based on the description and it sounds like a great idea! Thanks :)

[@michaeldorich4485]

I know almost nothing about crawlers. I do know this crawler went through the six challenges easier than any other rigs I remember watching. It's obvious you're very happy with it. You should be. You've done a lot excellent work. I think you can go into the nationals with confidence. Good luck.

[@RCTNT]

Heh thanks Michael. It'll still be outclassed by the expensive stuff but we'll see where things fall on the day. I'm cautiously optimistic it'll be enough. We shall see!

[@BUILTLIGHTWOUNDTIGHT]

Very impressive setup you have here!!! 😎

[@RCTNT]

Thanks! I'm happy with it!

[@RS-sv3bl]

Monstered those problems - that was enjoyable to watch

[@RCTNT]

Didn't it just. Thanks, it was fun to make, too.

[@aaronhouser3711]

Well done!

[@RobKingRC]

Nice rig,, Just finished building one myself, absolutely love it!

[@RCTNT]

Right on! Great value eh

[@RobKingRC]

@@RCTNT Excellent value ! And the after market is endless.

[@jeffreyarmstrong632]

The rear links with the super high clearance bends would cause your driveshaft to hit the rocks, if you just do two kinks near the centre skid down to the rear they will be in line with your drive shaft and slide on the links rather than a rotating shaft. Might even make your already awsome performing rig even better

[@RCTNT]

Thank you, that's wise. I've been thinking on it and considering another option that I hope to show off in a while. Something a bit different to normal that will get the shaft up and out of the way. Great suggestion you've got and it'll by my Plan B :)

[@doubledome2076]

One cool machine‼️😎👍👍🦾🦾

[@RCTNT]

She's coming along nicely eh! Nice and cheap too, which is a winner! Cheers

[@shoky11TV]

Hi Craig - I'm about to build the same chassis (just came in the post) with my TRX4 axles and transmission. I'm attempting to go 4 link front also, so I may need to get creative with the front left upper link....I hope it performs as well as your setup does!!

[@RCTNT]

If you're putting the servo on the front axle, your 4 link setup will be great. You can do it! Enjoy the build :)

[@GiftedFingersSVS]

good setting bro........i like it. from Malaysia Rc Rock Crawler. ( custom crawler )

[@RCTNT]

Thanks. Still fiddling with options here but it wasn't bad for a cheaper chassis! Not bad at all.

[@GiftedFingersSVS]

@@RCTNT yes I agree with you

[@roblowrie1969]

Very nice rig. 😎👍🏻

[@RCTNT]

Thanks Rob

[@jeffparryncc1701]

WOW what a beast 😎👍

[@RCTNT]

Coming along nicely, yeah!

[@jasondionne1214]

Nicely done ! I’m currently running a Gspeed V3. Once you build an LCG chassis it’s difficult to go back to standard rails for anything but trail runs. 👍🏻

[@RCTNT]

Oh I haven't tried a gspeed before. You like it? It's lucky I do a lot of trail runs, then!

[@jasondionne1214]

@@RCTNT Yeah I really like my Gspeed. I started with the aluminum V3 and then just had to switch over to the white carbon fiber V3. I started with the Axial Deadbolt 10ii when it first came out, and have just modified it over all this time. Not bragging at all because it’s my only rig, but here’s a quick highlight parts list. V3, Vanquish F9 axles-3 gear transmission-wheels, Hardcore RC titanium high clearance links, IERC bumper-sliders-bed, Proline Swampers-Comp Wagon body, Hobbywing Fusion, Savox servo. I finally considered it done and then had to order the Traxxas 2wd Slash kit 😂

[@RCTNT]

Very nice indeed! I bet it's a beast!

[@jasondionne1214]

@@RCTNT it is a beast. So is your new build 👍🏻 Keep smashing all 6 of them problems. Thank you and keep having fun. I definitely enjoy watching your channel

[@RCTNT]

Will do and thanks :)

[@M-F-CORGI]

my poor not so little bronco is gonna have a damn hard time keeping up with you hahaha

[@RCTNT]

We're gonna have a blast on the rocks and that's Good Enough (TM). I mean, you could probably throw 4.19" tyres on that Bronco and drive alongside my JLU in Scale-1 instead if you wanted... and probably be fairly competitive there, especially with portals and rear lockers...

[@M-F-CORGI]

@@RCTNT it's tempting to get a set of 4.19 and just go in both class if they don't clash. Fun will be had regardless

[@RCTNT]

You'll probably be right to do that, but we can spec on the day to make sure. No overdrive and straight rear links are the main other things to consider for Scale-1, but I have recent videos that walk you through the main points for both classes: Scale-1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGiyaKyOjZJpr8U P/Scale: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hX-vp3R8aL6hrcU But yes, fun is the main thing!

[@DurpVonFronz]

TRENCHERS!!! Got 2.2 on the Danchee, thing wants to climb walls those things are so sticky!!

[@RCTNT]

They're great tires, no doubt

[@AgeOrmstad]

Nice man 💪😎

[@Br0rB]

I've been thinking about getting this chassis for a little while now, and try and use some of my RGT EX86100 Pro parts with it. I think you may have convinced me to get one. It's definitely on my list of stuff to get now. I'd probably combine it with an outrunner and a Rhino ESC. Should be good. :D

[@RCTNT]

I've been looking at that motor and esc combo. Seems like good value, and it'd sure suit this chassis. Nice thinking.

[@Br0rB]

@@RCTNT I saw Crawler Canyon test that ESC, and he was really happy with it. I have one on the way, and already have one of the 9imod outrunners in my RGT, but paired with a Hobbywing 10BL120, which isn't all that great for a crawler. The motor is really nice though, and I reckon using the RGT parts on the Injora chassis should work great. I don't have a whole lot of spare stuff for 10th scale, only lots for the smaller scale stuff, so RGT it is. :D

[@RCTNT]

Ah right! I've seen those 9 motors too, but haven't looked closely yet. Also haven't watched or read anything about the outrunner combo, but it's been in my cart for a few weeks!

[@muskokamike127]

6:47 you mentioned the motor towards the rear. You might be able to make your own motor mounting plate and move it over to the front side of the trans. You'd have to reverse the direction of rotation but it's doable if you have the space. You also might have to extend the pinion too to reach the main drive gear.

[@RCTNT]

Thanks, I could do that. I've also considered remote mount and a universal shaft and bearings to get it to reach and sit snugly. What I think I'll end up doing is simply replacing it with a lightweight outrunner brushless. Then it won't be an issue!

[@muskokamike127]

@@RCTNT Yeah outrunners are tiny. I know they are used a lot in planes, how are they for low end torque for crawling? I remember the first time I saw one: what is this sorcery? fix the stator and rotate the housing? what? lol..... KT had an experimental carbon fibre 3d printed POS that had 4 small outrunners on each wheel. Now imagine having that weight down low, and torque vectoring....google inwheel motors....companies have been experimenting with them for a while now.

[@RCTNT]

I've played with hub motors before (aka in-wheel), they're interesting. But yes, outrunners look crazy when they're going. My mini comp rig has a 380 outrunner - they're not great on the same broad big torque AND high speed and power of inrunners, but you can build it for either amazing speed or punchy, axle snapping torque, which is perfect for crawling. The Holmes Revolver is what I'll put in this one I think.

[@muskokamike127]

@@RCTNT good to know. Do you do that via gear ratios? (speed vs torque) and just wondering, is there any issue with using them in the dirt for bashers and off roading?

[@RCTNT]

It's done with windings when the motor is made. Definitely they're more susceptible to dirt and contaminant ingress, they are a fair weather motor and dust will be hard on them. You usually can pull em apart for servicing but honestly, modern brushless inrunner motors are so cheap and powerful that they're the better option in dust and mud and such. Look at the Surpass unit I put on my Bandit, for example. Cheap and just epic, and not bothered by dust like an outrunner!

[@davidconaway2830]

Lovely progress on your comp rig. Do you have a best guess on the finished weight?

[@RCTNT]

Thanks, it's 2.7kg (5.9lb) with body, but that's with 110g wheels on each corner. They'll be coming off and I'm seriously considering changing to a brushless outrunner, which will also shave 100g+ off the weight.

[@davidconaway2830]

@@RCTNT It sure looks lighter than 5.9lbs...and more importantly....it climbs like it's less than 5.9lbs. Best of luck, and please keep us updated on the progress as well as your competitions.

[@RCTNT]

It is too heavy but I'm hoping the wheel and motor change will help enough to get it over that final perceived boundary of limitation for this class. I'm working on it and will do, thanks David.

[@Wild_Buggy]

👍👍👍

[@Dozern90]

Would love to know what links you sourced in the end. Its a jungle out there and the stock links that come with the kit are dog :S

[@RCTNT]

I think they were Samix TRX4 bent lowers that I bought 4 ish years ago, then a jumble of whatever else fit the wheelbase I was going for. I'm actually using those stock links in another rig, they're not so bad (... I thought?) Sorry I can't give you better info here. I've built, rebuilt, completely disassembled and then repurposed most parts from this build at this point. The chassis rails are back in my chassis rails drawer for now!

[@aja_rc]

Nice car

[@RCTNT]

Thanks, I liked it

[@aja_rc]

@@RCTNT so it’s very smooth

[@RCTNT]

It was, yeah

[@yurlov78]

Хорошая работа. Серва на руль, находится на мосту?

[@RCTNT]

Thanks. Yes, servo on axle is legal for this class, so definitely worth doing.

[@lowslowcrawlers1304]

What foams are you running? Are those tires G8 or Pred?

[@RCTNT]

They're just the single stage foams that came with the tires, which are Predator compound. This is one of the things I need to get done before I can call this rig ready.

[@zonegamma8197]

those Injora cheap parts lets us play like we played with lego

[@RCTNT]

Ha! Nice one. Yeah that's about right!

[@BK33REVIEWS]

What links are you running specifically rear

[@RCTNT]

They were diy ones. I'm really sorry but I didn't measure them and the car is apart and rebuilt another way now!!

[@zanthraxnl]

What is the tape you wrap the wiring in? Looks clean! Thanks.

[@RCTNT]

Thanks! Tesa tape, it's an automotive fabric tape that sticks to itself really well. I love it

[@quranshare411]

Which one is better betwen injora lcg vs cross rc at4v?

[@RCTNT]

They're completely different. The Injora lcg will give you a more capable base on which to build a capable rock crawler, while the AT-4v is an exceptional all rounder trail rig and crawler. I haven't actually had the at4v here yet but it looks like it shares a lot in common with the AT4.

[@KyleF-tt4jr]

Are the supporting chassis parts from SCX2?

[@RCTNT]

I'm sorry Kyle, it's been too long to recall. I have many parts here and tinker often. These days I'm 3D printing the parts I need and I'll be releasing a competition chassis soon for free. I can tell you this injora chassis was a breeze to work on.

[@KyleF-tt4jr]

@@RCTNT thanks for the reply. I’m new to the crawling aspect of RC and with so many options on the market, I’m not sure where to start lol. I’d prefer building over buying and install quality parts from the beginning. Your injora setup looks great. Just looking for what parts go with that chassis.

[@RCTNT]

@KyleF-tt4jr if you're getting started, you may find some real benefit in some other brand kits over this thing. Cross RC EMO AT4 is a great kit, as is the Element Enduro builder's kit. I really enjoyed the gmade GS02F build and its performance is incredible. All these are on my channel. I have an article on rc-tnt.com about what the best crawler is, too. I'll link it tomorrow, bed now! Cheers

[@RC-Homesteaders]

My Axial Jeep CJ-7 might walk those rocks like a snail on its way to the strip club😊 if not just a lil blip of the throttle and she will sail/ brawl over it😮 nice crawl bro 👍

[@RCTNT]

In stock form it'll do problems 1, 2, 4 and 5. With some mods it'll walk all 6 no worries 👍 I love the body on the CJ7. Very cool.

[@RC-Homesteaders]

@@RCTNT yes sir 👍 And thank you for the visit and compliments 🥂

[@1BARBAS]

How is this build?❤

[@RCTNT]

It was good, especially for the price.

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

I wonder if cheater rig build is possible, based on a chassis like this for some milder classes? From my understanding (not participated), polish rules are quite loose for milder classes, so they don't specify chassis type. Having this underneath a standard body with points accessories, would prolly wipe the floor with competition. I might be wrong for some official competitions though, as I familiarised myself only with rules for this one major, yearly meet-up /competition 2 day event.

[@RCTNT]

My latest WRCCA intro series covers this. Can't do it for Scale-1. It would indeed be a cheater chassis, yes!

[@muskokamike127]

6:54 you might want to move that strap on the left, it might stop you from sliding over rocks. (or was this just for testing?) Other than that, that thing just purred over your problems. I'm going to say "almost" effortless. The bent swing arms are the cat's ass.....(north american term)

[@RCTNT]

Cat's ass, duck's nuts, same same :) I need to replace the wheels now, remove the strap and fit the 3m snap tape, etc. Get a body painted and fit. Little things but a few of them to do now I'm happy enough with it!

[@muskokamike127]

@@RCTNT haha duck's nuts....I'm going to have to remember that one...that's hilarious.... Yeah, some finishing touches but technically, that's thing's a home run.

[@RCTNT]

Thanks, I'm happy with it. Mostly!

[@LyrickCZE]

Hello, sir! I started my crawling journey with extremely cheap RGT crawler that I improved over time to beat my friend's twice or three times the price crawlers : ) But I think I want to move it to the next level, but still on budget. Injora chassis seems like a great choice? You look like you have ton of experience and knowledge! Would you be willing to provide some ideas and answers regarding the build choices, please? Thank you very much in advance for contacting me!

[@RCTNT]

The ideas and answers I can give you are in these videos. For sure, there are performance gains to be found such these CF chassis kits, no doubt. Go for it.

[@LyrickCZE]

@@RCTNT Hi again! So regarding the questions I mentioned - it may sound basic to you, but thats exactly what I am having hard time finding.. so here is few so far: 1.) The motor in the video doesnt look like the one in the description? 2.) How to determine the lenght of the shocks? 3.) What budget portal axles would you recommend, I have none spare. 4.) HW Fusion worth the upgrade? Thank you!

[@RCTNT]

Happy to answer: 1. the motor is the exact one in the description, the Holmes 40T. It's epic, but not cheap. Pairs well with WP-1080. 2. shock length is measured from middle of the rod ball end at each end of the shock. If you're asking how to know what length shock to use, that's more of a personal preference question, but a good place to start with a chassis like this is 80mm, give or take. I'd suggest you want at least 60mm and you almost definitely don't want to go longer than 95mm, but 80mm is about the sweet spot. 3. I like the Capra portal axles. There are knock-off versions of them everywhere, such as these: amzn.to/3RFPoYr 4. Fusion is excellent, but it's heavy and long. I'd recommend it in a trail rig, it's brilliant. However, a small outrunner and ESC combo is better for comp applications, such as this: amzn.to/46bMRtJ (both the ESC and the motor are in that same listing, available separately. The 1900kv motor and the 40A ESC would be a good pairing).

[@LyrickCZE]

@@RCTNT Thank you for detailed answers! But the motor you use in the video is Torquemaster instead of Trailmaster that says description, I assume? Im so lost in the motors to be honest, there is Crawlmaster Sport, Trailmaster Sport, Torquemaster Expert, Crawlmaster Expert, TorqueMaster Pro,.... I dont seem able to do proper decision here. So because Fusion is heavy, thats exactly why you use 540 instead of 550? Thank you very much for your shocks and axles suggestions.

[@RCTNT]

Holmes Hobbies motors have a variety of descriptors, but they make sense once you understand what the words all mean: Torque vs Punch: Torquemaster is a 5-pole or 5-slot designation. Slower, but better low speed control. Trailmaster is 3-slot designation, which is punchier but lacks that low speed buttery smoothness. It depends on how you like to drive. Budget vs Optimal: Sport is the budget line. Cheap, non serviceable. Expert is rebuildable and with better magnets. Pro is like Expert, but hand wound for maximum performance and optimisation during construction that machine winding may lack. Fusion is still a good option, as it's only a 540 motor but there's an esc tucked in there too. The problem is the motor casing is extended to fit it, so you've essentially got a metal barrel for an esc enclosure. That's not optimal for competition, but for a trail rig it's wonderful. Really depends on what you want from your crawler. Cheers 🙂

[@soundscare]

Those GPM links are trash. Will break for sure.

[@RCTNT]

Do you mean those black front bent links I found? They're not super strong but I think they'll be ok on the front. I don't know I'd trust them in the rear but hopefully they last ok. These ones I've put on are 12 years old and have been run on a few other rigs in the past, so I'm hopeful they'll last here too! All the other links are legit stainless steel or better.

[@soundscare]

@@RCTNT yes. I broke those almost instantly

[@RCTNT]

Got it. OK thanks for the opinion on this. I'd have forgotten about it completely otherwise and now I'm worried about them breaking during comps. They have lasted this long but they haven't been in competition before. Might look into making my own. Hmm.

[@Muresanady2011]

@@RCTNT hy Craig, how do you do your own links for that rig? is it possible to have the lenght of them? THx from ROMANIA :)

[@RCTNT]

You can bend stainless steel bars a few ways. Oxy acetalene torch and careful heating in a vice with nuts in each side to control the bend is one way. Best to cut your own threads rather than bending threaded rod, as I've found that tends to break unless you're only doing very minor bends. For this rig, I used a mix of links I already had from different sources. Here are lengths for each from center of ball end, in a straight line (ignoring bends, just from end to end): Front upper: 82mm Front lower: 94mm Rear upper: 137mm Rear lower: 146mm

[@canuckchuck8836]

So capable! I am sure you saw this but it seems like the center skid gets hung up. Still...awesome work!

[@RCTNT]

It did touch a little in places but the main place it was getting hung up was those straight front links. I've swapped them out now and I think we're in a better position again. Still tuning!