(Re-)Building a 3D Printer - Part 2: X/Y-Axis and Dual Extrusion

This is part two of my attempt to rebuild and hopefully improve my 3D printer. If you haven't seen part one yet, click here to to watch it first:
(Re-)Building a 3D Printer Part 1: • (Re-)Building a 3D Pri...
If you enjoyed this video, please let me know by clicking the like button or leaving a comment. Otherwise tell me what I can improve and I will try my best. While we are on the subject, please forgive me for the bad autofocus during some parts of the video, I will definitely take more care of it in the future.
Music:
"Spring in My Step" by Silent Partner
"Blue Skies" by Silent Partner
"To the Top" by Silent Partner

[@wilrecar77]

The electromagnet solution is pretty slick! Nice work.

[@24omw]

Do you know how this works with marlin 2.0 ?

[@Tracks777]

Keep it up! Looking forward for more videos from you, don't stop!

[@solosailor222]

Subscribed!! Best dual DIY ever! Please, Parts List of the major components? Bearing/rods, extruder parts, leveling inductive sensor. You made those awesome large plates (3) on the MPCNC? THX!

[@leonpijpers7327]

Hi, so good you have everything working, Dual extruder with 1.06 mm height difference is a good idea, for the electromagnet Just a suggestion: may be a salvaged HP Laser printer Solenoid clutch electromagnet (which has a lever with a 90 degrees bend ed hook at the end, or from Ali Express for 5 euro) could provide a solution for the overheated electromagnet problem. If you connect it right you only have to activate the electro magnet during disconnecting or connecting both printheads. the spring could keep the hook connecting both printheads. My magnet would draw about 160 mA from 24V continuously, at 12 V it will be less strong, so less distance magnetic attraction from solenoid to metal lever.

[@leonbrauns]

Hey, thanks for the suggestion. This seems like a good idea for a future build, I am going to keep it in mind ;).

[@neuxstone]

I just have to say this is genius. I often wonder why folks don't use the upright frame extrusions are not used as z rails (if the cube dimensions are true). Hard to find fault with your excellent design though.

[@bitsurfer0101]

The only thing I don't like is the dual adjustment on the cooling fan shroud bracket. Maybe you could show how you route the wiring?

[@17573240]

Love it! Quick question: why did you join the two y motors with a shaft?

[@aerohard]

That is one heavy-duty 3d printer. It looks robust enough that you could add an engraver head to it if the build plate could be swapped for something heavier.

[@leonbrauns]

My idea was indeed to make this a hybrid machine: The complete z-axis can be exchanged with a solid metal plate, thicker belts can be installed without changing any of the parts and all electronics are seperated from the "build chamber", safe from any dust and debris. However I never felt the need to modify it and it most likely is going to remain a heavy 3D printer for the rest of its life.

[@TactlessWookie]

Why two motors on the Y axis? Especially as you've joined them with a shaft coupler? Seems you could have a single motor with that shaft in place of a second motor? Otherwise this is a nice looking setup and I'm watching your rebuild series on this. Nice job.

[@leonbrauns]

Thanks! When I made the first sketches for the printer I was a bit worried about the torque of the stepper motors, as the x-axis is pretty heavy thanks to the 12mm steel rods and direct extruders. Today I would rather choose a much more lightweight construction, but I have to work with the materials I got ;). And I think one stepper would also be sufficient for the heavy axis, but as I had both of them already lying around, I went with this design. The shaft coupler is there to prevent any misalignment of the two sides while moving the carriages manually.

[@TactlessWookie]

Thank you for the reply. I most certainly understand making use of items on hand!

[@jappiemoto]

Have you designed the printer yourself because if you have great fucking job looks awesome

[@shimondoodkin]

looks like a nice extruder what extruder would you suggest? or what is the model you use?

[@ShasOAunLa]

Whats about ozing with the main extruder? I like the idea of that two magnetic carriages but imo a single 'mastercarriage' and 2 slavecarriages with the extruders will eliminate the ozing problem. looking forward for upcoming buildlogs ;)

[@leonbrauns]

You are totally right, I would also prefer to use two slaves. However I had no good ideas to use the print space efficiently with such a concept. But ultimately I am confident that oozing won't be a problem: The printer is made for slow, accurate prints. Therefore I can lower the temperature of the nozzle quite a bit to reduce oozing. Additionaly the extruder is right on top of the hotend which is a big advantage to a bowden extruder. I tested it before and with a retraction of 3-4mm there was basically no ozzing.

[@harshpandit5256]

Hey, It was fantastic rebuilding. But how did you attach the wires of two stepper motor on Y-axis, as ramps gives only one motor connector for it? And isn’t it gives too much of load on motor driver? And yes i also like to know your E3d heater & nozzle model?

[@leonbrauns]

Thanks! The motors are connected in series on an external perfboard (you can see it in part 3). By connecting them in series the current from the driver stays the same, so the load stays the same (you might need a higher supply voltage, but for me 12V worked unproblematically). I use a 40W 12V heater and the whole range of nozzles they offer.

[@mmusicoc]

Hey I think your extruder setup is nice! Parking just 1 extruder as you normally use the "main" one, no point on adding more complexity and inertia with dual parking and central driver 👌. I want to build my dual extruder reprap printer with similar approach to yours, but cannot figure how to configure Marlin 1.1.9 as it has only integrated dual parking with leveled nozzles. Also, could you provide the gcode scripts you use to enable using both extruders from the slicer side? Thank you very much in advance!!!

[@leonbrauns]

I am using Repetier, so I don’t know if this is also going to work with Marlin, but I only configured the offset of the second nozzle in the firmware. The rest of the tool change is done by a very simple script in Simplify3D: {IF NEWTOOL=1}G1 X181.5 F4000 {IF NEWTOOL=1}M42 P6 S255 {IF NEWTOOL=0}G1 X181.5 F4000 {IF NEWTOOL=0}M42 P6 S0 M42 P6 switches the magnet on or off, G1 X181.5 moves the carriage to the parking position. If you still have any questions feel free to ask them. Good luck.

[@mmusicoc]

@@leonbrauns Thank you man! I will try to implement it before building the carriages in case it is too complicated. I am also getting the advantage of 2 independent heads to have Main: lightweight with 1.75 bowden Normally parked: geared 3mm (as classic gregs wade). You can check my concept here: www.dropbox.com/s/0g5ccamj2kna276/8%20-%20Hotends.JPG?dl=0

[@TrungLe-dw1mm]

Are those Nema 23?

[@yusufalkan3509]

Can I learn the printer name ? Can you give me plastic parts link?

[@solosailor222]

V1engineering.com has the stock MPCNC plans, with plastic parts for sale.

[@lineuve]

did you has files for this project ?

[@patrykjurkian8310]

hi, what is dimensions of working place ?

[@leonbrauns]

Roughly 200x250mm for single extrusion and 150x250mm with the second extruder.