Reactive Rover- How to eliminate embarrassing behaviour

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This is a video tutorial for owners who have a dog that tends to be reactive towards other dogs or people. This video is not intended to FIX any underlining problems that the dog may have but rather gain control of the exhibiting behaviour. If you feel like your dog has severe behaviour issues, please contact a professional certified behaviour consultant or behaviourist in your area through here iaabc.org/ .

[@unnursolveighlynsdottir5405]

Okay but how do I just get a stranger to do this. I can't really just walk up to a stranger and say hey can I do something real quick I need to teach my dog not to bark

[@tongeanimation2476]

get a friend to help and practise this with them first

[@kathryndelgado9070]

Lol i do that all the time. People usually say yes 🤷🏻‍♀️

[@thelifeofvoodoo840]

If you have control over your dog, and they won’t get loose, then go to a pet store. There will most likely be dogs there.

[@virglibrsaglove]

I feel the same way. Especially now during COVID 19.

[@edengarden6811]

Unnur Solveig Hlynsdottir enroll in a class.. not that hard.

[@1bleachlover]

By far the most informative video I've seen so far!!!

[@jamiegowan135]

I've watched a lot of these videos. You're working exercise is fantastic. I'm trying it TOMORROW :). Thanks!

[@beestone]

This was great. I think you may have solved my problem! Thanks!

[@maitezubieta4569]

I was so in the video, and it suddenly stopped for me. I wanted more!

[@monicapayne3681]

I have a rescue dog who is getting more reactive with each passing day. It's awful. We can barely go outside. She is such a wonderful dog and when she is inside or off-leash, she is a model citizen. I have been working with a trainer, but it's not really working...thanks for posting these methods. I will give them a try. Left the park tonight in tears. I am a first time dog owner and this is too much for a newbie.

[@alexasplendorio6886]

omg i've watched so many videos and this one is the best one i have seen!! u described it so well lol i can't wait to train my dog

[@ShevonnePolastre]

I’ve been looking for a video on how to stop my puppy from barking at other dogs. Out of tons, I’ve seen, you are the only who explained and showed a technique that makes sense. Thank you!

[@DougHinVA]

too bad you didn't look for real rehabbers of troubled dogs. You didn't look very far if you missed Tyler muto or Larry Krohn.

[@statistic420]

Did you achieve success from this?

[@teresalove1766]

Thank-You for your helpful Tips for a Happy Pet and Owner.

[@shorne.youtube]

Great video plus narration, thanks.

[@analarson2920]

I like your 3 second rule, it is easy to teach others that.

[@jadevantonder7101]

thank you so extremely much! I've been trying everything (except physically painfull ways) to get my dog to stop barking amd acting anxious around people. Even if they're far away he starts running and barking at them the moment he hears them and I just didn't know how to calm him down. I'll definitely start the Leave It method now.

[@finnshuman]

The sad thing is, people will try this and not get results within a few days and give up then resort to forceful methods :( I've been working with my reactive rescue with reward based training and he was initially a dog that would not pay attention to his handler (me/my family) outside of the house for ANYTHING; no treat, no toy. He couldn't be let off the lead because everything was so overwelming that we just would have no hope of calling him back. However I now have an obedient, relaxed dog that will not only come when called on a walk, but will hold a stay in any position for any amount of time and is actually happy to do what is asked of him. He still requires a little bit of space when on lead around other dogs but 99% of the time will focus on me and not bark or lunge at all at the dog. It just took TIME and PATIENCE, and I wouldn't have trained him any other way.

[@tellurianamystic9424]

Video. Show the rehabilitation step by step and over time. Balanced and obedience based dog trainers do this, but I've yet to see a food trainer or "positive" trainer do it. Just hear-say.

[@finnshuman]

Telluriana Mystic I'd like to but I walk him by myself 95% of the time and have my hands a little full 😂

[@xobrook]

luksrai do you have any tips?? I have a husky so it's really hard and embarrassing having to hold him back while on walks. ):

[@JaneGerardJaneTrains]

There are plenty of videos on positive reward based training, so called balanced training is a deceptive term. It implies all is 'balanced' but it is not, using a shock collar is not "balanced" it is positive punishment.

[@kellycorl8319]

luksrai - working with reactive/fear aggressive dogs is a marathon NOT a sprint - I so very much agree with you.

[@gdwatcher]

We have 2 dogs. One is very alert and in the now The other could care less about what is going on around him. I have taught my dog tricks on my own but keeping him from going after ouside stimulus has been hard. Thank you for the informative video!

[@MackenzieColeandCanner]

Great video Kristin! I work down in Montana and will share this with my students if you don't mind. I come up to Vancouver sometimes to visit friends, would love to talk shop if you're interested!

[@maetsuen]

Thanks for the tips, it will help me a lot with my 14 month old female rottweiler. She's reactive to barking dogs and launches at them.

[@TheAwesomeBumblebee]

Thanks for the video Kris! Really helped:)

[@RandyMarsh32]

Thank you very much for the tips!

[@Kijous]

If you have conditioned them sufficiently on situations that caused a lower reactivity, the dog should respond to the stimulus correctly, and break gaze with the dog to look at you. The threshold becomes surpassed when the dog ignores your commands entirely. Having smelly or very reinforcing treats with you to wave in his face will bring him back. Another way to break his gaze is to step in front of the dog to regain his attention. Reward if the dog gives you eye contact, and stops his advance.

[@nikitabudgets4201]

My dog is definately a reactive dog, we just adopted him about a year ago, so we are still learning some things about him.

[@AlexPerez-yv1de]

this helps a lot my dog has always been reactive but it was due to excitement and we were able to counteract that but last summer me and her along with my younger brother who was walking our elderly chihuahua were attacked by a husky that got out of its yards because the owner opened the gate. my girl is a working-class GSD and 80lbs. so we were walking down on the right side of the sidewalk and my dog on my left side when this husky comes barreling down from my right and lunges for my arm, my girl went in to defend me and fought the other dog off. the owner tried calling his dog but had to run over and pull his dog away from mine, my girl immediately left the other dog alone when I called her back but she stood beside me snarling at the owner. the owner for some reason tried getting closer to me with his dog by the collar and my girl snarled, even more, I had grabbed her leash back when she came back. ever since then any time she sees another dog while on a leash and only on leash she becomes reactive but fear-driven reactive compared to her old excitement reactive. off-leash shes pretty neutral

[@rachelm7525]

This is really useful, thank-you. We have a super-excitable and fearless, 9 month-old, Mini Schnauzer. He thinks every other dog is his friend. Well, some are, but one got me in trouble! I now see I need to increase the distance from the trigger! We're going to work on this 😀👍

[@brittanycostello8824]

THANKYOU!!!! i needed this video :)

[@ChromeLuxx]

Great info, thank you!

[@annmariegarko-hill436]

When you go to your safe distance behind threshold. Do you ask for a sit then leave it when they look at stimulus? Or is the main focus leave it? You may have to walk past the stimulus at some point what behavior should you be marking? I am asking because after this type of exercise we can usually walk past in a calmer state but she does have tunnel vision on the stimulus. Lastly, advise on how long it takes to train consistent calm behavior around stimulus?

[@kimmobley333]

Thanks for sharing.

[@raysofgreys]

Just wondering what state you're in, and whether you offer training? Thanks!

[@lindseybev.5329]

Great video

[@MarvelouslyMessy]

+Kristen Crestejo Great video. When out on leash I will be trying all of that!! I have a bit of a conundrum with my Buddy however inside my apartment and would love your advice. I live in a dorm as a dorm parent. Several different times throughout the day, sometimes up to 12 or more, I will have people knocking on my door asking questions, needing to come in and talk, etc. A lot of the students happen to be scared of dogs. Since moving to this dorm three years ago, my dog Buddy has gone from bad to worse in terms of reactivity to people. He barks, growls, and lunges towards anyone who comes in to our apartment. From my perspective I definitely believe he is feeling more and more fear towards people, rather than any frustration. I made the mistake of trying a mild shock collar and immediately he become more nervous day to day. We threw away the collar but I am at a loss with how to make him feel more comfortable in his own skin. We are a pretty unhappy family right now because we know that he is so miserable!! My question to you is: how could I best use all those great tips inside my apartment? Should I have him on leash inside as well?? I would appreciate any advice you could give!!

[@MarvelouslyMessy]

+Marvelously Messy In case you are wondering what I have done so far to help him: knocking and saying "Hi!!" or other greetings and then rewarding when he doesn't bark, having students give him treats when he meets them at the door, asking him to go to his mat and lay down when someone comes in and then rewarding him.

[@vikingdogmanship]

how did ut go?

[@sandhall08]

The video mentions a link for a "leave it" que. It's not showing up anywhere. Can you share it again? Also the website video link goes to "calendar" and doesn't have any videos. Can that be fixed? Your insight and videos are amazing!

[@lolagray8764]

Hi Kirstin, i have a 1.5yr old small chihuahua (Jack Russell cross). Indoors she amazing and very obedient and focused. The second we step out of the house, she's reactive to literally EVERYTHING! This started from 14 weeks old when we got her! leaves, wind, cars, bikes,dogs, men, people. Now she's getting better outside, but seems to be getting worse with other dogs. She goes from 0-100 in just a second and nothing will distract or break her focus until the other dog has disappeared from sight 2-3mins later. She is small so she spins in circles, lunges, hairs on her back all stands up, growls, does not stop even when picked up. However, when she gets very close to the other dog shes quiet as a mouse! i just don't want to encourage the behavior by letting her near the dogs when she screams. The smallest size head harness (Size 0) does not fit her. Taken her to 3 sessions of dog training classes so far and she literally barked for the whole 1hr 30 mins sessions!!!...PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!! i'm so close to tears

[@lolagray8764]

Oh also, he's never been mouthy or bitten anyone or dog. Just extremely aggressive towards getting to other dogs

[@DougHinVA]

Forget a head collar and get help from a professional. Your dog has a problem (or more than 1) and you are an unskilled amateur. If you were getting terrible headache or shoulder pain, you would find and book services of a skilled professional. You are not a doctor and you are also not a dog trainer/rehabilitator. Get competent professional help. A rehabilitator takes on more difficult problems than just teaching 'sit', 'heel', etc. ... .that is basic training.

[@superwomae]

Kristin! I have been watching you videos and they are really helping me and my 11 month old golden retriever. I just the unstack ing of cups with my puppy and he loves it. Next I want to train him how to stack the cups, but I have no idea how to train him... Please show me how?

[@theonlinedogtrainerreview5747]

thanks for share information

[@elizabethknight3338]

Great video, but I do have one concern. The head halter really shouldn't be used on a dog that is reactive and lunging. These are designed to pull their head back to face you but if the dog lunges forward hard it can jar the neck to the point that it causes damage to their neck and spine. The front buckle harnesses are great though. Love the video! Keep up the good work!

[@sergy5337]

Very helpful but I was not able to see/find any link to LEAVE IT training tutorial.

[@robin212212]

If a dog pulls and you use a harness the dog becomes a sled dog and will pull harder. Some dogs have a reactive behavior to the pulling pressure of a lease and a harness will only give him more leverage to pull harder. Prong collars are the best thing to try for this behavior; despite how it looks the prongs spread out the pressure around the neck so it does not hurt as much as a regular collar (kind of like how a person can walk across a bed of nails and not get hurt because he weight is so spread out).

[@erinsaul8983]

robin212212 yes 🙌

[@AbiReadsBooks]

I just got a border collie mix with a Husky, last week, who only resembles traits from the collie on his physical characteristics, he is 8 weeks old and I have already began training him but I'm worried he will get bored. I am a senior in high school so 5 days out of the week I'm at school for 6 hours, but he has a lab to play with, I just want something yo do to help keep his attention and where he isn't bored out of his mind but where to start/:

[@aprilbehnke9611]

Thank you for providing this information. Do you have any recommendations for those of us who aren't able to create such controlled environments? I can't always control how far away another dog is. If a dog is too close to mine - he gets that tunnel vision (with both his friends and foes). Thanks!

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

You can use fake dogs for training. :)

[@cedricrobon3749]

thank you

[@SpriteoftheDnieper]

Any advice on how to do this with covid? My dog is only reactive to other dogs now. Most of my neighbors have poorly trained (“aggressive”) dogs, and none of their dogs seem to be out at consistent times. I’ve tried doing some counterconditioning whenever we see a dog, but when walking there isn’t always the option of getting more distance from any/all dogs, and I don’t have the option of getting progressively closer to a dog park (etc.)

[@SpriteoftheDnieper]

Okay, it took a while, but here are some answers to my own question: - easiest solution everyone has access to: every single time you leave the house, take a bag with treats. Watch your dog, who may see/smell a cat/dog/etc before you do. At the first sign of the dog becoming aroused, ask your dog to focus or perform a down and treat. Then cross or go into the street, even if you yourself don’t see the object of your dog’s focus. If after crossing the street the neighbor’s dog begins barking (etc.) and your dog is able to pay attention, repeat the process. If not, continue to walk away until you have just enough distance to repeat the focus/trick process. If you hear a dog bark (etc) and your dog was not distracted beforehand or doesn’t appear overly reactive, seize the training opportunity and reward his calm behavior! Over time, you’ll condition the dog to look at you when he hears a dog bark or is otherwise excited / afraid / etc. by another dog. And watching your dog for signals can often be more effective than watching for the actual distraction. Asking your dog for a “down” not only requires his attention and is incompatible with jumping/lunging/barking, but it’s a trick that helps calm him down. - veterinary clinic parking lot / front lot. Most vets are accepting dogs, but they require owners to wait outside with their pups and take them in alone. Some owners will take them for a walk before or after their appointment, and dogs can usually be seen/smelled/heard from the lot or car windows. If you’re lucky enough to live nearby one of these, you can work towards getting closer. - ditto for shelters

[@jesturmi]

I feel like body harnes increases the pulling, a slip lead have been amazing for my husky atleast

[@aafkemertens]

Thanks so much! This is really one of the biggest issues we've had with our icelandic sheepdog. What do you do if a dog "suddenly" appears out of a corner? When you know threshold has been surpassed? Do you just let it be? Do you reward if the tunnel vision has stopped - or better not, since the barking already happened?

[@virglibrsaglove]

I would love to hear an answer to that, too. For me it is a neighbor with a disability that causes the neighbor to not understand social boundaries. But, yes, the stimulus just pops up out of nowhere and now the threshold is crossed. Pup goes bonkers and neighbor rewards. Neighbor can't be avoided because my pup still has to pee. Now what?

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

To the both of you. You may benefit from going to DogLiaisons chanel and her videos about aggressive behavior.❤️ If your dog passed threshold its best to get out of there as quickly as possible because its not fair to the other person involved these kind of situations are also why you should use a harness so the lunging wont hurt your dog. :)

[@CourtneyConnors]

@@virglibrsaglove I feel bad for people who fall for the scam of reward-only dog training. you cannot avoid the world, you cannot avoid random things in the environment challenging your training, you can only train for real world situations. this means abandoning your ideas about dog training. balanced trainers find success where positive-only trainers and their clients cannot - like neighborhood walks with reactive dogs. look into solid k9 training.

[@rachelm7525]

I would probably turn around, if possible, and go in a different direction. Wait till they're far enough away, and when the 'calm' kicks in, reward the calm 🙂

[@ytveiwer5143]

I have a very reactive dog, she's only small and was poorly socialised as a pup, whenever we see another dog she just goes crazy. I really need help but I'm not willing to give up.

[@snailsslugs]

yo i got two reactive small dogs with the same socialization situation, and my family has been slowly working through it as well. keep it up, you got this :)

[@testerviron]

Exactly how most small dogs get eaten snappy yappers with no muzzles to control yapping ...bad owners

[@natearrigoni]

Behavior issues are hard to deal with. Luckily small dogs get a break for this behavior, a larger breed would be surrendered. Look into Upstate Canine Academy, Tom has great vids that start addressing behavior modification. And if you are still having issues find a balanced trainer to help. Positive reinforcement is neat and really its like 95% of how I train but that last 5% I use all the tools I can to get a dog on board so they don't get surrendered and maybe put down. Good luck with your loved ones and be patient.

[@Carmador]

Wheres the link for the "leave it" cue?

[@suecasper4243]

Harnesses teach a dog to pull more because it relieves pressure off of neck. Prong collars do not hurt dogs and are a great training tool. It puts 360 pressure around neck which makes the dog uncomfortable so that they stop and rethink their actions. Most dog trainers use the print collar method but you will have those trainers who know the stigma around them and instead of educating, they will agree just to get a new client. It this is THE first video you have seen watch about 5 more.

[@ernapomrenke8054]

My Max is a rescue Sheltie mix I got one 1 1/2 years ago. He came from a high kill shelter to the rescue . He was extremely high energy and had been returned to the rescue because of his out of control behavior. That's a lot for such a young dog. When I got him Max was about 1 1/2 to 2 years old. He over reacted to anything that moved. I had a private trainer come to the house for about 9 months and saw some improvements but Max also gained almost 8 pounds from all the treats she gave him and then he lost interest in the treats. The biggest problem is when we encounter another dog. Max will spin, pull, bark as if he was on hot lava. He has almost knocked me over with his crazy antics. I try to walk behind a car or up into someones driveway while the other dog passes but it is extremely difficult to calm Max down during this time. I like your videos, just wish I could have you help me with him.

[@Krissykris1468]

My best advice is learn, learn, learn. The internet has such a wide variety of information (I would encourage positive based methods) so that you can learn more and more and start to predict and find new ways to work with the dog. This video is a very loose overview of dealing with reactivity, there are so many other exercises to help, proactive and reactive.

[@ernapomrenke8054]

Thank you

[@smallnuts2]

my 8 month old Doberman does this without anybody or anything moving when starting a walk. once i let her off leash she will stop. but shes not really good on recall unless it is at night and im a clear field.

[@justicesienna1410]

could you please do a tutorial video on how to fill a kong it would be great :) Kristin Crestejo

[@patriziadelmonaco4105]

Mi sembra molto interessante ma dove lo trovo tradotto in italiano? Grazie 👏👏😃

[@bettyzh]

Realized his pulling is because of excitement! That makes me feel much better! The video us very helpful! Thanks!

[@acatarinamiranda]

This is exactly what I needed. Thanks Kristin! :) I was going to try LAT, that I guess has the same effect as the leave it exercise. Actually if I have a ball in my hands (usually a tenis ball) and I say "look, ball!", she will look at me. But without the ball, no deal.

[@BN-xy1kt]

Yeah this works. BUT, it takes time. Patience is key.

[@nolig888]

I have a 5 month mix puppy and he was very social when i got him. I took him everywhere to expose him but as soon as college started a couple of months ago I couldnt keep up with training. Now, he barks at everyone and every animal he sees and he's not even allowed in my vet school anymore because of it. Please help me solve this problem. He doesnt attack anyone just barks and people feel threaten by it.

[@philmeisterify]

Why did the video cut short. My dog get distracted anything that moves outside. The previous owner used a shock collar on him. I don't want to train him like that.

[@Juss-pivot]

I've been taking the leer burg leash reactivity class with Tyler muto, and my shitzhu/Maltese mix is already able to walk past her triggers with no fuss. We use prong/ecollar/treats/praise/and other rewards. We've made crazy strides and its only been 2 weeks! I took her to our local pet chain and her reactivity got worse and they asked us not to come back because her barking was distracting the training session. You couldn't even hear the instructor lol

[@DougHinVA]

so if you had instruction from Tyler Muto, you had a top-top level rehabber of dogs in the entire USA. So who failed ? It's you! You own the dog and if it is barking and does not obey 'quiet' .... then you didn't train that behavior.... see?

[@Juss-pivot]

Doug H. in VA Sorry I see my original comment was confusing. What I meant was my dogs reactivity was sooo bad that we were asked to leave from the pet supply chain. But my dog and I are on an ecollar and it has truly made all the difference! And Tyler truly is a top-top dog rehabbing professional.

[@Juss-pivot]

Doug H. in VA After the pet supply incident we started the Leerburg university program to work on her reactivity

[@SweetNightmares_]

This happened yesterday but he almost slipped out of his harness, it didn't help that it's was a whole pack of dogs (with their owners) it was so embarrassing.

[@marceloarctic]

Hi Kristin. Would allowing my dog to walk in front of me increase his reactivity? I have a 1 year old lab, he's reactive to dogs, and I have been following your suggestions. They do help but I was wondering about the position of the dog during walks....

[@addicted2myworld]

+Marcelo Alvarez I've found with my dog, who reacts out of fear, that I had more control of his movements and reactions when he was at my side with a shorter leash. (I use a carabiner hook to attach the hand part of the leash to the clip. That makes it easier for me to shorten the leash quickly.)

[@DougHinVA]

I say yes from handling dozens of shelter and rescue dogs over 20 years as well as taking all my dogs through obedience classes. A dog that cannot see you is ignoring you. The dog should follow you, at your side or partly behind you. That is how dogs were developed over thousands of years.... not to lunge ahead dragging the owner. Dogs are domesticated animals created by Man to help and accompany Man. Show a dog how to do his 'job' of being a dog that follows his handler.

[@sharleenm5646]

Awesome

[@monicaruiz7397]

Hello Kristin, I was wondering if you could give me some advice for my 6 month old Border Collie named Macie. She acts very reactive towards cats and other dogs when we're walking or at the dog park. She begins to pull me and jump like crazy. I can't get her attention with treats or toys. I'm running out of options and puppy classes are extremely expensive. I'm afraid that I'm going to have to give her away because she becomes so reactive towards other dogs that I'm afraid she's going to get into a fight one day. I don't want her to bite me or someone else. Please, help me. Thanks!

[@karenkwan3824]

+Monica Ruiz hey, I hope your puppy is doing well since it had already been a year. But if this still helps, the video said react before your dog reacts. Which means before she even she can even react to the stimulate say leave it!

[@indoororchidsandtropicals358]

I hope you and your dog are doing ok too. My dog is EXACTLY the same way. She's a 2 year old rescue I just got on April 1st. I couldn't walk her a block to the gas station without her screaming, pulling, and jumping so hard she does flips almost. I'm really clumsy with the treats and clicker. She even freaks out at dogs in yards three houses away. What works with her and what has worked with horses in reverse (I weigh 100lbs and cannot force a horse into a trailer. They are too big) is I WALK her, not trotting to the point where she can see and hear the barking dog. She will speed up and pull to get there so immediately stop. I'll even crouch down so I don't get impatient. If she's screaming and lunging, we have gone too far so we have to back up. Anyway, then I just wait. She calms down even if the other dog in the yard won't shut up. We can now make it all the way to the gas station a block away unless the two dogs on opposite sides of the street are both barking at the same time, but she calmly walks on a loose leash past all the other barking dogs where a few days ago she was screaming and lunging. I keep her in a HARNESS (sorry for the caps. There aren't italics on here). She cannot pull out of a harness like she can out of a collar or damage her windpipe or thyroid gland like in a high collar. She's even worse with cats but today when we came back from our walk, there were two cats in our yard and she went up and smelled one. She wasn't totally calm, but she didn't bark or scream. Also, learn how horse trainers teach to give to pressure, and work on impulse control exercises. You can even do those while eating and sharing with your dog. That's essentially what I'm doing with her to teach her not to pull, so today when I pulled her away from the cat, she eventually went level 10, but it took about five minutes where two days ago when she spotted a cat, she was screaming. That was an incredible achievement since this was a surprise to us both and was a totally uncontrolled situation. She's a beagle heeler, both breeds are bred to chase, so it's even more impressive, but the herding dog in her makes her smart. Last thing, when you get a puppy, you have to take it out every day to meet people and dogs and see the world. I took treats with me to give to people to feed to my dog and so she always loved people, other dogs, and she was a SAINT because I never yelled at her or hit her or did anything to scare or intimidate her. My shelter dog was intimidated and probably smacked around a bit. I can tell because I've accidentally scared her (I'll spare you the details). Basically I feel like..I'm not a professional, but I feel like if you expose your dog to all kinds of situations and never show them aggression, they never learn to fear or be agressive. Trade them for something better if they are chewing something like a shoe and use your hands to put the food in the bowl. With my last dog and the new one, they have only had a few accidents. If you don't have hours a day to spend with a dog, get a shelter dog that has been a part of the cell dog program where inmates train the dogs and or get a dog that is smaller and has a low IQ. They don't get bored so easily. There was one up for adoption here for almost a month on a pet search website (the cell dog). I decided to get a dog with some problems since I've had a few and learned some things over the years and she's getting better every day, but I know I have the time, a bit of experience, and the lifestyle and dedication to take her out for a few hours every day. Matching the size and breed to your lifestyle is one of the most important things and raising a dog is as much or more work than raising a child.

[@vikingdogmanship]

@@indoororchidsandtropicals358 Did things work out well with your dog?

[@MubangaLaur]

Thank You! Months after adopting Enzo, he appears totally fine approaching other dogs during walks, then as soon as he begins to pass them his entire body reacts and he lashes out...what you mentioned about frustration I think? I'll start working on the leave it. Thanks again!

[@Krissykris1468]

+Lauren Abbott It could be fear or it could be over enthusiastic greeting (gets so pumped up, then finally when the other dog is close, he wants to jump on them and play). Watch for any stress signals (lip lick, turning away, paw lick) when you're 30 ft away. If you don't see any stress signals, it could be a rude greeter (over enthusiastic).

[@MubangaLaur]

+Kristin Crestejo (Modern Canine Training) Wow-thanks for replying :) Hmm, probably rude greeter. It's like he doesn't know what to do when so close and on leash, his head goes side to side, kind of growls and if the dog makes eye contact Enzo takes it as a challenge, stiffens up and continues to look back after we've passed. Still go for the leave it training? Thanks again.

[@MubangaLaur]

+Kristin Crestejo (Modern Canine Training) Also seeing what your video says about "If you've accidentally rewarded the dog to go to the stimulus and all of a sudden you stop allowing him to go..." we did initially allow him to greet other dogs while walking. We stopped after a month and a couple bad interactions..that's when Enzo began to act this way while passing dogs and realizing he can't go and greet them anymore. So it's probably all our doing!

[@ceeIoc]

How does the dog eventually be able to get closer and closer? In other words, what exactly would keep him still when he is close to another dog? Being far away doesn't make a difference. The stimulus is far so he doesnt care.

[@thomashansen6138]

Hello Kristin I have a Rottweiler at 8 years. She sounds like she is a fearful dog from what you write - but she barks really hard (with the tail waving and on top of the bag) at other dogs/cats/bikes.. everything really... in the end of the barking she is actually whining (she says the same sound as when she wants to play) and then she turns to be petted... She also does this in the car and at home and on the street. We have this thing for the head, but that is the only way i can hold her. When she barks she is not to get in contact with... she LOVES food, but when barking she don't want sausages or anything yummy... HOW TO STOP IT? and how can she learn that it is not her task to protect us, but our job? info: We have her from a dog shelter, she was very uncertain, and when we lifted a arm she crouched - she doesn't do that anymore. But that's where the barking started... What does that mean?

[@thomashansen6138]

and i'm not thomas hansen, but Benedicte Bendtsen ;0)

[@Krissykris1468]

It sounds like she's over aroused most definitely. I can't tell you if it's fear or excitement because I have not seen the behaviour first hand. I would address threshold levels and possible desensitization if she's fearful. Honestly if you can, call in a certified canine behaviour consultant from this site iaabc.org/ (they're all over the world) because it sounds like she is a pretty intense case and will most likely need individual exposure sessions to stay below threshold.

[@TheMaisiewoofwoof]

I have a 55kg German Shepherd who goes nuts when we open the front door. we have to be very careful because he will run out and run off if allowed but that's a separate issue. our main problem is actually getting him through the front door calmly and without being dragged. could I use the leave it and threshold method shown here to gradually get him through the doorway calmly or do you suggest something else? love your videos BTW 😆

[@maijak8539]

You can install a temporary baby gate a metre (a few feet) away from your front door for backup and safety. And then you could train a "sit-stay" or "down-stay" (make sure you get it really reliable in a calm/easy environment like in your house, and then try doing it at the door? Might be worth a shot, that's what I'd try! :-)

[@IzzyBooNZ1]

So my dog is very reactive at neighbours dog. As we live in a cul de sac we have to walk past this house. Their dog goes mad, barking, jumping and scrabbling at the fence. The owners know and never correct their dog or anything... This makes my dog lunge, rear up, high pitched squeal, hackles up. I walk her in a headcollar as she's so strong. I'm worried this will cause her to be reactive with all dogs, plus I just don't know the best way to deal with this. We have to walk by ( other side of street) to leave home/get home. My dog will at points stop and look at me. I praise her good girl. I don't treat reward cos I feel that's rewarding the lunging. Any tips ?

[@DougHinVA]

IBN .... if you do not know; hire a knowledgeable pro. see?

[@aliciaorozco4099]

Prongs and e-collars are great ways to get rid of reactivity. They DO NOT make it worse unless they are used incorrectly. Look it up on KZbin and see the results! Nonetheless, this is also a working method, thank you!

[@rachelm7525]

I've never heard any trainer say they approve of prong-collars, etc. Remember, manufacturers just want to make money, it's not their job to train your dog, or deal with the consequences - just sell you products! 😏

[@aliciaorozco4099]

@@rachelm7525 Hey! So, you are correct. Anyone who owns a business wants to make money. However, their purpose for starting said company is to help their customers (unless it’s a greedy company like Amazon 🤣). Moreover, when you say you’ve never heard a trainer approve of prong collars and other tools, do you mean that they do not advocate for its proper usage and effectiveness? Balanced trainers, though know what for their use of prongs and e collars, will not use a tool if a dog doesn’t need it. This is because they know the tools and they make sure to inform their clients of such decisions. Any trainer who simply places a prong on a dog without in depth assessment is putting both the dog and the owner in a bad path. Trainers will not recommend these tools online or through social media because they have not seen the dog in person. So yes, trainers will not “approve” of these tools to anyone without having properly assessed the dog.

[@rachelm7525]

@@aliciaorozco4099 you make a good point. Responsible trainers will only recommend what's appropriate to the dog, and they would need to know that dog. I personally would never use a correction device which inflicts pain on an animal, but there may be exceptional circumstances where it is the only option 🤔

[@aliciaorozco4099]

@@rachelm7525 Thanks! After tons of research and consultation with a local balanced trainer that has been in the canine training field for many years, I use correction tools on my dog. I know you’ve probably heard many times that if used correctly, they don’t inflict pain, but there is no other way to put it. These tools can only be harmful in the hands of unknowing and irresponsible owners. Cars can be dangerous, but if the driver knows what to do all is good. A kitchen knife could be a morder weapon, but in the right hands it is the epitome of cooking. I understand and respect your choice of not using these tools, but please do not speak bad of them without fully understanding the extent of their success and lack of harm. People like myself, who choose to use these tools, also love our dogs just as much as those who don’t and the last thing we want to do is cause them pain. Moreover, we should have the ability to decide how we train our dogs without being judged and criticized. 💛

[@xhogun8578]

No credible trainer will promote adverse training methods. By doing so it shows your lack of ability and you total lack of canine behaviour.

[@natearrigoni]

Not sure what embarrassing behavior is for a dog but if you are embarrassed by your dogs behavior then you probably need to be around dogs more. BUT the info in this video was great, more owners/handlers need to understand their animals better and stand up for them. Leave it and recall are base commands all dogs should learn and understanding how different environments trigger your dog are base skills the owners need.

[@jfleck99]

just out of curiosity... what's the eventual goal of this? is this desensitization? will the dogs eventually not be reactive to those stimuli? Or is "leave it" just a way of diverting attention?

[@Krissykris1468]

If it's fear, desensitization will happen in time, the dog learns by listening to you and diverting their attention away from the scary stimulus - nothing bad happens. The excitement and frustration the dog will learn that he doesn't need to do crazy behaviours to get the reward (dog), quietness allows for closer interactions.

[@mandydeane5824]

I got my Dexter nearly a year ago. I don't believe he had ever been leash trained. Our first trip to the local park was a nightmare!!! He screamed at anything that moved, a piece of paper blowing in the wind would set him off. It would take us 45 minutes to walk through the gates calmly. He has come along way but we are still nowhere near where I would like us to be in terms of reactivity, some days are better than others. He is not an aggressive dog though he may appear to be he is excitable and frustrated. He hates being on a lead, has got out of one harness and snapped another. He is only a 7.3 kg miniature schnauzer but has the strength of a much heavier dog at times. What I wanted to ask is can it take this long to and longer to achieve results or am I needing to do something different? I got him when he was 8 months old and he will have been with me a year on the 21st March he is 2 in July. I wanted to add it can be difficult to get his focus on me and what we are doing. He gets bored easily even when we are having fun in the garden. Any advice would be appreciated. When I also got him he had yeast overgrowth and that has been a battle as I have read this can contribute to anxiety.

[@vikingdogmanship]

How is it going with this situation 2 years later?

[@LoanLeaf]

I have my dog calm down and then we continue walking in the opposite direction

[@jenaepeterson]

The only thing o disagree with is the use of martingale collars. Some dolichocephalic dogs need a martingale collar because due to their head shape they can slip out of a traditional collar, especially when reacting. A properly fitted martingale collar will not choke like a choke chain, rather apply slight pressure when taut to prevent the head from slipping through.

[@Feelkkari]

My problem is often on walks, I’m already trying to keep as much space away as possible but my dog is still lunging. Even on a gentle leader, he is pulling so hard I can barely hold on. It’s embarrassing and I feel terrible because it frightens the people walking their perfectly behaved dogs. I’ve tried treats but his focus is so strong, even me blocking his vision often doesn’t break his focus. I’ve had a 20 year experience dog trainer hand me my leash and say good luck. 😂😂

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

It could be that the reinforcer just isn't good enough but please do this in a controlled environment first you can even use a fake dog to train. Get so far away that your dog is not reacting. Start slow and don't expect to be able to go next to the dog immediately but keep training sessions short. Also seeing others help there dogs with reactivity is motivating me so you should follow others going through something similar it might help with the embarrassment a little. :) (And if the trainer really did that they are not a good dog trainer)

[@memeguyTM]

I give up trying to get my dog to not be reactive. It's been 2 years now of trying and trying and trying. I had him in obedience training since 11 weeks old and at about 5 months he started reacting to other dogs. I still continue obedience training from when he was 11 weeks, he is now 2.7 years old. I tried 4 different trainers 😥 I honestly give up now.

[@christianolivares3053]

Hi, Do not give up. I know a lot of dog trainers on KZbin that I have learned so much. Reactivity can be stopped on your dog but it will take time. I know I am working with my Lab and I feel I'm progressing every day.

[@wAakamole]

Isnt it like BAT training?

[@horsegirl07]

How do you do this with cars? You can’t exactly turn away from a car and they eventually will pass pretty fast,.

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

Use distraction training with the word leave it.

[@mariabenincasa7273]

I realize this is an old video but I'll post my question anyway: the rescue organization where we got our dog said we should use a martingale collar, why is it bad?

[@alviselaguna5028]

Because it chokes the dog, creating tension, disconfort. No one learn not to be nervous...or reactive being under pressure and disconfort. They need to learn to be real calm. A martingale is a good choice for a rescue dog in case he/ she wants to escape pulling back. Thats it. Cheers.

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

Pulling dogs can also very easily break there trachea on a collar.

[@ComfortLining]

My dog cries when she gets near my cat lol. She's a German Shepherd

[@LaserTSV]

With enough training using this method, will the dog become less sensitive to the stimuli with time? Or, is this just a trick to get your dog to ignore the stimulus for a given event?

[@Krissykris1468]

Lord Nutfork It honestly depends on the underlining issue to why the dog is reacting. This video is basically to teach the dog to NOT react (vocalize and lunge etc). Every dog is different so some may rehabilitate and change the underlining emotional response (if it is fear based) and some may need further counter conditioning and desensitization training to zone in on triggers.

[@LaserTSV]

Kristin Crestejo Thanks for the quick reply and I just subscribed (and Liked of course). Based on your video, my dog is definitely reacting to fear. She does have prey drive (e.g. squirrels) but, I have trained her by using "leave it" to stop this aggression immediately. The remaining problem is that if any dog we are in proximity to shows significant aggression (i.e. barking or lunging at her) she goes red zone fast (FYI, around calm dogs she is completely normal). It's embarrassing as you say. I've trained her to sit and look at me before the red zone comes, but it is a losing battle if the barking stimulus doesn't move away within ~ 1 minute. I have gotten good at avoiding these situations, but there are always surprises (such as someone elses off-leash dog or in the vet waiting room). Based on my experience there is a huge population of dog owners who don't train their dogs or understand how their dog's behavior is creating a bad situation. Anyway, I'll keep watching your videos for some new ideas to training.

[@Aedony]

Lord Nutfork Hey! I have the same with my dog (or had). So, the stimuli is not the other dog, in fact its the barking/jumping etc. of the other dog which (in most cases) try to fear your dog off. To work on that you'll kinda have to find (or at least it worked for me) a dog that shows this behavior and is not moving away after that on order to repeat and train it. Now, I have a neighbor with 2 absolutely reactive Labradors in his yard. They react (bark & jump) pretty reliable every time I cross their line of sight. So, I move in, and as soon as they start I'll click and feed treats rapidly. Then I'll move out of sight. The barking/jumping stops as well as click'n treat stops. Then I'll go back in, the barking begins and the treats are coming back. You'll teach your dog that barking/jumping of other dogs actually pays off! After a while my dog started to look at me as soon as they've started barking in order to get her treats. You can begin with more distance at first of course. That's called counter conditioning.

[@DougHinVA]

you have accurate insight. virtually no owners take their dog to 1 complete obedience class. so a dog unable to ignore or 'normally' greet another dog or just ignore it can cause the problem for your dog. You get uneasy if a weird person approaches right up to you; so does a dog and dogs focus on cues of smell and motion much more than people. Smell and motion are a dog's main stimuli.... ours are visual and verbal cues (they dress weird or are dirty and/or talk nonsense or obnoxious, etc.).

[@MrHeliadict]

My dog (1.5 year old Dane) knows leave-it. He responds well to treats, and I can always get his focus on me except when he sees another dog. I am confident I can control him (I'm large). But, nothing in this video has worked thus far and sadly the examples here of bad behavior are laughable to me as my dog is so much more extreme than any of this! He's not fearful or aggressive. Just excited... If he has a treat in his mouth and sees another dog, he spits it out. He howls like I'm hurting him as the other dog passes. We switched to a halter with a top clip and he will pull it until he hurts himself. The choke chain actually worked better. He would pull hard enough against that, it would eventually choke him and he'd start to go limp. With the halter, he pulls himself against it till his head is about 5ft into the air and then he tries to jump away off his hind legs. If I pull him back down, he howls/yelps like I'm hurting him. As we walk / run the other way to stop the behavior, he howls the whole time so loud people 200 yards away start looking and pointing like maybe I'm abusing him. Maybe some dogs just can't be re-trained and he should just spend his life separated from other dogs or be put down. Very frustrated. I will give it another 5 - 10 walks to see if he improves. If that doesn't work I'm trying a shock collar next. I've seen others have great results and I don't buy the whole - it will ruin your dog thing when your dog is already at the point of needing to be euthanized or completely isolated his whole life. Have a relative who uses one and swears by it... he has a 100lb golden retriever and I don't think his dog is "ruined" by it. We'll see... I do believe in positive reinforcement as a first, 2nd and 3rd attempt for animals/humans/everyone. But sometimes maybe fear and pain is the only thing that corrects bad behavior?

[@MrHeliadict]

I should add... As my wife and I have been discussing this, she just brought up a possible major issue that is making him so awful. Our back-yard neighbors have two VERY aggressive healer type mutts they got at the pound. They attack the 6ft privacy fence any time our dog is near it, or the kids are etc. The dogs will sometimes chew holes thru it and bite at the kids. We've had to call animal control multiple times. Our Dane has kind of gotten used to them ("I think") and will just whine and act anxious a bit when they are attacking the fence. The reason I bring this up, is maybe it's making things a lot more difficult when I walk him. Maybe it's causing his anxiousness / excitement when he actually sees other dogs? The only time he's gotten "better" was after getting back for a week at a relatives house where he played with the retriever. Anyway... maybe i'm just grasping at straws here. I don't to get rid of the dog but I don't think it's right to keep him locked up 100% of the time because of the way he is.

[@Krissykris1468]

I can tell you right off the bat if your dog is "reacting", you're over threshold, so you haven't followed the video's directions. You MUST find your dog's threshold, and work under threshold, when a dog is over threshold and reacting as you describe, it is very hard to stop behaviours when they are being exhibited especially at that level. Everyone always waits for behaviours to happen then wants to work on them, you're letting your dog dictate the training (which doesn't work), you have to be ahead of your dog every time you're out. A top clip halter? Are you meaning a body harness that clips at the back? It could be that he is anxious at the presence of dogs due to your neighbours dogs but it could also be many other reasons.

[@lindahall89]

MrHeliadict

[@rachelpeham4800]

How did the situation turn out?

[@michaelb634]

My dog is the exact same when seeing another dog. She cries soo loudly that its as if shes in pain when she see anothed dog even if they are very far away. Please give an update ive tried everything except the shock collar

[@nemifjord7119]

The choke collar is not working

[@lindseybev.5329]

👏

[@lindseybev.5329]

My dog is scared of the clicker, what do I do!? I've tired clicking then treating over and over over again but he still doesn't get that the clicker is a good thing and it gives him a treat! Please help!😕

[@Candorsmayhem]

lindsey bev. This comment is really old, but in case someone else has this issue- clickers are really loud, which makes some reactive dogs shy away. Try using a voice marker instead- usually one syllable like "yep!" A clickable pen, or wrap your clicker in cloth. Additionally, clickers aren't magic, they have to be what's known as "loaded" first. That is, spend a few days clicking and rewarding with treats randomly and constantly first. This teaches a dog that "clicks noise means reward!" I hope this helps.

[@DougHinVA]

lb.... you can put a clicker in a handkerchief or get a quieter clicker or tape the metallic clicker piece to muffle it

[@samanthahackett8162]

Geez my dog is like this but times 1000. I'm convinced I actually have the craziest dog 🤣

[@royalrenegadee]

Head halters can cause neck damage and are NOT good for strong pullers! They are far more aversive than the items you listed as do not use. Also, martingale collard feel the same to the dog as a flat, but just tigheten up so they will not slip over the dog’s head. This video has a few good points but also a lot of bad info on tools

[@imnelfromtechpocket5770]

How you control a dog without use a tools such as prong?the other Dog is gentically reactive... its in here blood,..

[@amber7591]

I wish my mom was watching stuff like this instead of worrying about the dogs' dang food so much. Embarrassing behavior is right and takes away from you and your dog actually enjoying things.

[@cristal3037]

Body collars don’t work on my dog .

[@huskyhound1022]

head harness is forcing?

[@Krissykris1468]

Depending on how you use it. If it's used in a forceful way to manipulate the dog, then yes. If the dog lunges and the harness prevents the dog from going nutty, then it could be considered a form of manipulation but I wouldn't say force considering you're not pulling the dog anywhere, we're just on the other end of the leash.

[@huskyhound1022]

+Kristin Crestejo (Modern Canine Training) do you use force manipulate the dog when he goes bananas? and does it feel uncomfortable for hem when he pulls? I am worried about the neck.

[@Krissykris1468]

+huskyhound I don't force a dog or manipulate them in anyway. make sure you're cues are up to par, then the Haiti can help prevent the body from going nuts. if the dog is going too crazy and going to hurt themselves then we need to give distance and rethink thresholds. the Haiti can hurt IF used improperly. but it's not suppose to hurt at all or cause any pain. just annoyance if the dog pulls, it turns their head sideways. Horses wear them.

[@huskyhound1022]

+Kristin Crestejo (Modern Canine Training) ok good advice thanks. I have heard Michael ellis have a dvd called leash skills it's on this topick, I think I will check that out to.

[@SteadyEdina]

huskyhound I used to use a head collar with my dog but he hated wearing it and would run and hide when I got it out. Dogs communicate to other dogs with dog language such as head turns to let them know they are friendly. Its hard for them to do this wearing a head collar. I suppose it depends how bad your dog it

[@memeguyTM]

Can you show a live stream of training a reactive dog in front of other dogs?

[@dogsareboss]

No they can't. Because this Reactive Rover stuff is, unfortunately, a load of nonsense. Think about it like this: A dog learns by association. You're dog is out walking or most likely dragging you along the street. Your dog sees the thing that he's reactive towards (dog, cat, bird, etc) and starts becoming aroused, you then give the dog a treat. You are literally but inadvertently, rewarding the dog for becoming aroused.

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

@@dogsareboss You believe that because you are un-educated, you should watch dog Liaisons videos on dog aggression specifically "why reward aggressive dog with treats" vid, she talks about the science behind it. You should also look up the toby project and dax the angry dog on instagram

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

@@dogsareboss and you never just give the dog a treat

[@dogsareboss]

@@The.MoNsTeRs "Uneducated"? How original! At least you didn't tell me to "do some research".

[@The.MoNsTeRs]

@@dogsareboss I dint tell you to, I gave you the resources if you want to educate yourself. And if you have alot of people telling you you need to do more research than their probably right.

[@noelsotelo7557]

I have tried all the training videos I've watched and my dog still pulls and gets super anxious when other dogs are around.

[@darrenhaigh7763]

Work on your relationship with your dog.thats were the problem is.

[@jman2k0]

Prong collar works wonders for us.

[@miamalone2398]

smooth operator I second that 👍

[@miamalone2398]

Noel look up (here on KZbin) Jeff Gellman shelter dog training and watch how he transformed a dog on death row from being a brat jumping pulling dragging... to walking calmly by his side. Structure and setting boundaries are key.

[@summercoleman4187]

What i find frustrating with this video and many other training videos. Is it presumes you have list of people and dogs that you can ring up who are happy to come and help you train your dog.. not the case with everyone

[@corpsiecorpsie_the_original]

It doesn't presume anything, it tells you what is needed to be successful. As a pet owner, it's your job to do what is necessary to be successful. If you are unable to do what is necessary as a pet owner, then it's time to pay a professional to help.

[@summercoleman4187]

@@corpsiecorpsie_the_original this video is supposed to be about how to help your dog yourself at home? Im just saying it would be helpful if a dog trainer could show you how to use everyday scenarios to train your dog rather than forced interactions with dogs that you may not even have available to you.

[@nadagabri5783]

Head harness can’t be used on a bulldog

[@moochachaa]

I had a body harness and a head harness this did not work at all!!!! I was consistent for over a year. I used a prong collar that actually does not hurt the dog and he walks perfectly with it, he’s Still reactive but at least he can walk properly. I have a highly reactive beagle and no amount of correction fixes my dog once he sees something it’s already too late if I don’t catch him within that second.

[@jswarpaint6215]

When a dog does something wrong simply disagree with the behavior but remain calm when you disagree. When a dog barks and yelps and then you give food to them its going to take them forever to behave correctly because you are motivating them to get crazy so they get a treat to eat. Only reward calmness. If it is imperative to give a treat to a dog then when the freak out and get intense when a dog is around disagree calmly with the behavior make them sit then wait wait wait and when they finally lay down then give them the treat. If a dog does not act right when walking then do not allow them to move even a foot until they are completely calm them move and if they immediately freak out again then don't move stop and have them sit wait until they are completely calm then continue the walk doing this may mean the initial "walks" may only be about 10 feet but eventually they will know to stay relaxed in order to be able to go on an actual walk.

[@moonblink]

i need to bring treats on walks.

[@natearrigoni]

Look into reward schedules and how to train with food. I see too many people bribe their dogs and it really doesn't teach them anything useful. We start with treats then fade them off and exchange a toy or just the owners love and attention. Dogs (if you aren't a total prick) are more excited about you then any treat or toy. They have done MRI studies of canines and what happens in the reward regions of the brain with different rewards and the owners scent lit it up more then anything else. So don't underestimate the power of your love. Keep things fun and high energy, you should be more interesting then any distractions while training. Keep sessions short and learn to read your dog and when they are getting confused or frustrated. Communicate clearly and be still with your body, dogs read our physical cues more then our verbal cues. And play break often to keep the training light and fun. Good luck!

[@yonetcn]

A dominant dog collar is a much more effective tool for reactive dogs when used correctly. It actually kills drive(decrease excitement). A prong or an E-collar will increase excitement. A front clip harness is a bad choice as well because you can't move the dog's head from looking at the stimuli without seriously pulling on the leash.

[@nirestrunk4923]

As much as I love the idea of positive training, my dog doesn't react to treats at all outside. She won't take them, no matter how "tasty". Moving grass is more exciting to her than treats. :(

[@Krissykris1468]

that is positive reinforcement, moving to grass. positive reinforcement isn't just using food, it's giving the dog a reward for a desirable Behaviour, the reward is up to the dog 😊 food is a primary reinforcer for dogs so that is why it is used in training, but there are dogs just like yours that prefer not to eat food outside and enjoy other rewards such as walking, sniffing, praise, play, tug games instead....

[@magentass3064]

+Kristin Crestejo (Modern Canine Training) that's not really an answer my dogs doesn't accept treats outside either and i like to know what i can do instead

[@brianahedgepeth3466]

I know this is a little late, but I have this issue too and I thought I would see if my method might help you guys out. My dog is an excitement reactive. Inside, it doesn't matter what kind of edible thing you give her, she WILL take it if you offer it. However, in the case of seeing a dog or person too close to her, she doesn't care. She wants the stimulus. There's no going back once the person or dog is too close. However, I noticed that when I tried to take other training outside, like sit and down, she wasn't too excited about treats. I had to come up with something else. I used toys when we were in the yard, and that helped a lot. But it's not always easy or even manageable to take toys on a walk, so I thought up something else. I don't know about your dogs, but my dog loves sniffing. She only pulls during walks to smell things (and when she spots a stimulus, obviously). Because of this, her reward became me allowing her to go to a spot she hadn't hit yet in order to smell it. Basically what I do is try to spot her stimuli before she does. Once I do, I point out a spot to her (this works even better if your dog knows how to target). She gets invested in both the spot I pointed out and the stimulus, but of course I'll only let her have one, so she typically takes what she can get. If she overreacts to the stimulus, I wait until she's calmer, then take her to the spot I pointed out. If she acts okay as the stimulus is coming near, I immediately take her to the spot. If she takes her attention off the spot, I'll ask for a "look at me" and other task like sit or down or even alternating until the stimulus is gone. I hope that helps :)

[@DougHinVA]

you are a smart person with insight into what works for dogs.

[@mad8805]

The one thing my dog doesn’t react to is cars, she acts like she doesn’t even see them and tries to walk into the road in front of them

[@nicolehughes3812]

really? harnesses and haltis can do just as much damage as a prong. Harness where created for PULLING. they encourage pulling. this is stupid

[@marcbennett27]

It have never worked for my presa canario , I find I'd you have a power bread the best for my dog is turn around and walk back for a bit when calm walk forward. With choke chains or prong shock coulers they do work but the underlying fear or dominance e.c.t is still there weighting to get out when that couler is not on . Some breads will start 2 see u as an intruder for a strong punishment. A alfa is not harch or give treats it corrects.

[@Theeverydaydog]

Using "positive punishment" (pain) to stop behavior, Does stop the behavior (in the moment.) And THE HUMAN is reinforced by seeing the behavior stop. If punishment were a permanent solution you would only get hurt once and Never do it again, but we all know too well that that isn't the way behavior works. The very need to continue the use of or threat of pain testifies to it's lack. Changing the dogs attitude about the trigger gives permanent life long results. And yes I am a professional dog trainer.

[@DougHinVA]

you may make a living at dog training, but you can still be wrong. your arguments are called 'ad absurdum' type.