Real Sandalwood Hydrosol Cold Process Soap Making

Hawaiian Sandalwood Hydrosol is produced during the steam distillation process that is used to extract the Royal Hawaiian Sandalwood Essential Oil. In my opinion, the hydrosol smells very much like Sandalwood oil, but the final soap does not have much detectable fragrance. For this soap, I used Hawaiian Sandalwood Hydrosol instead of water in my favorite soap recipe. I used natural clays and Activated Charcoal to pour an easy, beautiful floral lei of color into the soap. The final bars are beautiful, mostly fragrance free, moisturizing spa soaps. Be sure to check out Chapter 37 of my free “Creating Travel, Gift and Guests Book” for links to where I bought my supplies and for more useful information:
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Music: “The Wonders of Psalm 37” by Martin Andrew Smith found here: martinandrewsm...
“Under the Moonbeams” by Martin Andrew Smith & Antonio Giardina
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Soap Ingredients:
1. 12 oz Organic Coconut Oil
2. 12 oz Organic Olive Oil
3. 10.1 oz of Organic Shea butter
4. 9.1 oz of Hawaiian Sandalwood Hydrosol
5. 4.8 oz of Food Grade NaOH
6. Cotton ball size Tussah silk
Fragrance: No fragrance or essential oil was added except 1 TBS of Organic Jojoba Oil after mixing the soap to emulsion.
The Hawaiian Hydrosol can be found here: laaualahawaii....
Colors:
1. 1/8 tsp Activated Charcoal added to 4.5 oz of soap
2. 1 tsp Rose Clay added to 6 oz of soap for band
3. 1 tsp Calamine Clay added to 4.5 oz of soap for the main soap
4. 2 tsp Calamine Clay added to 6 oz of soap for band
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[@walkingwater893]

So pretty! It's amazing what a little drizzling can do! 🎉

[@FromGracetoYou]

Thank you walkingwater💝 I know! It doesn't take any special tools!

[@happysoap77]

Today too, I enjoyed watching the cool and beautiful soap making video ~ Have a happy day ~~

[@FromGracetoYou]

Thank you so much for telling me the wonderful news, 행복바램 Soap.💝 I really appreciate hearing from you.

[@63eh74]

It's so fun to substitute for water! This is an amazing soap.

[@FromGracetoYou]

Oh I agree. I wasn't sure how this Hydrosol would behave because I could smell that it definitely had Sandalwood compounds in it and it changed the color of the lye solution. So I made this one with no added fragrance and mixed carefully at first. The design was inspired by Hawaiian leis😃 Thank you for your lovely comment Eric💝

[@littletawelan443]

Amazing to think the sandalwood tree can hold its fragrance for decades I believe 🤔 gorgeous soap as usual xx

[@FromGracetoYou]

Wow I didn't know that! The place I buy Hawaiian Sandalwood oil from has wooded coasters that they sell too. Now I want to buy some to try!! Thank you for your great comment, Mel💝 It's great to hear from you.

[@littletawelan443]

Hope I’m correct I know other fragrance tree don’t keep their fragrance. No idea where I read it so you may want to check it out first. Always watch your beautiful soap videos xxxx

[@FromGracetoYou]

Lol ok. But they are only $5 each so it would be worth a try if I get more oil or hydrosol from them💝💝💝

[@littletawelan443]

Definitely xx

[@sandymclean9630]

this is so wonderful !!!!!! your patience & craftsmenship wow !! thankyou for sharing this lovely relaxing video and music so nice luv from new zealand

[@FromGracetoYou]

I am so pleased that you like the soap and enjoyed the video! Thank you so much for your kind feedback, Sandy💝

[@marishkawile506]

So beautiful! I wish I knew how to do this without my soap going to trace too fast!

[@FromGracetoYou]

Thank you, Marishka!💝 Many factors affect how thick or thin a soap batter will be when you pour it into your mold. The soap recipe, temperature, how much you mixed the soap, fragrance and color can all affect the speed at which the soap becomes thick. With the shea silk recipe I used in this video, these are the steps I take when I want to have a very liquid batter : 1. I begin with a soap batter above 117 degrees F and sometimes above 130 deg F in the winter. I find that if the batter is too cool, it becomes thick due to the Shea Butter getting close to its solid temperature. Shea butter melts at about 90 deg F, so if the temperature of my soap batter approaches this temperature, it will thicken, but not because of trace. 2. I choose a fragrance that doesn’t accelerate trace too much. Most of my favorite fragrances accelerate trace just a bit, but not too much. I find that Orange and Bergamot essential oils actually slow trace. 3. After adding the lye/silk solution to the oils and butters, I mix just enough to prevent separation. I call this mixing to emulsion. 4. After mixing to emulsion, I add the soap to my powdered colors and mix. This keeps most of my colors very liquid for long periods which is necessary for many types of soap artwork. When I need to thicken a color for some reason, I often use a little mechanical whisk to mix it more which brings it to a thicker trace. 5. I add the fragrance at the last possible moment before I pour into the mold. 6. I add only small part of the fragrance at a time if I have a complicated pour or if I have a new fragrance and I am unsure of its behavior. After pouring my liquid soap into molds, when I am finished decorating the soap, I often place the soap in my oven calibrated at 120 degrees F for up to 2 hours to help speed saponification. Sometimes I heat my oven to 150 deg if I have a particularly liquid batter. I hope this helps!