400HP+ CanAm Maverick X3 Turbo RR Engine Teardown - What did we find? | ROTAX ACE 900 TURBO

[@nvlvdave]

First-time viewer here. I just have to say how nice (and rare these days) it is to see someone who REALLY knows their stuff.

[@realstreetperformance]

Thanks for watching! We have tons of videos to check out 👍

[@Smokkedandslammed]

Check out the rest of their videos if you want more teardown porn lol

[@budddove6480]

I suffer from anxiety really severely at times. I can literally turn on this guy explaining stuff and it chills me out. Thanks for the vids bro.

[@jaymeagher1510]

Thanks, take it easy and learn to enjoy the ride.

[@captainawesome5560]

I run the 1630 ACE motor in my race skis, full forged and balanced rotating assembly, billet cam, fully ported head with all the valve goodies and supporting mods, hammering it the entire 30 min race on the limiter at 9500rpm and the darn thing holds, they really are impressive motors for their size. You are spot on with head gasket issue, on our end the only other issues I have ever had was crank walk from the motor flexing on the crappy motor mounts and miss aligning the impeller shaft, but really cool to hear your expertise on this type of motor, I always hoped you would tear into one.

[@perfect_circle_engines]

Not bad, not bad. Happy with results considering the situation. This was built loose due to predicting the lack of maintenance it would have and we had about 4 business days to get it going for the next race. Definitely pushing too much boost for months of torture.

[@Rad_Triumph_765_RS]

I’m probably the biggest 3 cylinder fan ever. My favorite engine design besides the V12.

[@jaymeagher1510]

Have you heard one in person at high boost? The sound is really something! Thanks

[@maxdevlin4349]

"A lot of small parts doing a lot of work" statement earned your channel a new subscriber. I have always been fascinated with small engine /big performance subjects.

[@realstreetperformance]

Thanks for the sub! and welcome.

[@-Just_Justin-]

Love love love!!! This teardown. We work on x3 chassis on a regular basis, it's good to see an in depth teardown and what to look for.

[@realstreetperformance]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@oliviercaron8685]

Im workin for brp, and this engine is a beast! For 900cc can take so much power before something happenin, factory 200hp and its tame down at 200hp ! Amazing video!

[@realstreetperformance]

Right on! - Jay

[@orion000]

On average, What’s the life expectancy with regular maintenance and well 200hp nothing wild.

[@oliviercaron8685]

@@orion000 very very long if u do the regular maintenance.

[@orion000]

@@oliviercaron8685 I appreciate your response.

[@elementfishing]

The way jay says lubricity when talking about those little pistons just gets me all fired up. Great tear down and focus on attention to copper ring crush.

[@realstreetperformance]

Thanks, Dustin!

[@adampetten1009]

Wow pushing close to 500hp/ liter is pretty crazy and these machines are hammered WOT constantly.

[@JH-zt4qu]

Hope I enjoyed the video? I loved it! Thank you sir, this was awesome .

[@kennethsmith5494]

The fact that you don't use impact tools to break things loose says a lot about your work. Great to watch and learn from, Thanks

[@wiktorjachyra1869]

I gasped when you said 40psi of boost in that small 3 banger

[@joesilvasr9733]

Super cool video. Very informative. I really like how you addressed the scale of this power unit

[@mattjacomos2795]

In regard to the cylinder where the ring end gaps were aligned: At some point as the rings rotate around the piston, they will come into alignment and perhaps the alignment coincided with the instant the engine was stopped. A while ago the workshop of the dealership I worked at purchased a reconditioned short block Mazda 3.0 V6 for an early MPV (RWD) and found it had oil consumption and oil burning issues when recommissioned. After some weeks of attempted diagnosis, the Head Mechanic stripped the engine down and found the ALL of the ring end gaps were aligned. This was no coincidence and led the mechanics to believe the workshop that reconditioned the engine failed to space the ring end gaps. I alweays thought that spacing the ring end gaps was overkill until this point. Great video. I'm subscribing.

[@nowayjose596]

In that case isn't the question WHY the rings weren't rotating around the piston as they normally should?

[@kungfucommando1642]

I would love to see the Polaris 2 cylinder 925cc turbo disassembled and compared to the Can Am, see how they did things differently, and things alike.

[@TheFarCobra]

On the Classic Minis they make a flywheel with a sintered center that helped get rid of that welding on the taper. Alternately there was an aluminum flywheel with a plasma sprayed friction surface.

[@bebobism]

I would love to put that top on my A-series. 😛

[@Tydy_Owl]

First time viewer here as well...... Really enjoyed seeing the Rotax engine being torn down in this setting. Thanks for the content!

[@thebigguy8306]

Thank you, Like 2vintage channel, always a learning moment

[@silasndrizzy4877]

I love 2vintage

[@WHATTHEFIX]

Subbed. Like other have said, not only someone who knows their *ish… but communicates it in an appropriate level of volume, speed, and cadence… I am looking at a used one of these and knew nothing about the engine (which makes me pucker up pretty good). After weeding through more “cool kid” videos than my patience can handle, I found this. In about 10 minutes I roughly understand it. THANK YOU!

[@jaybird57]

This shit rocks right here... thanks for not just being another thoughtless gear head and bringing some actual knowledge to thr web..

[@lawrencefranck9417]

Work great in experimental aircraft, small, light and powerful

[@justaguy3426]

Please make a video building this engine

[@sirnewton6874]

I build exp aircraft as a hobby. Very good video

[@WXSTANG]

Everyone keeps talking about sustainability, and here we have a small footprint, light weight, high hp engine which uses half the material and is probably pretty good on fuel. These would be awesome in regular vehicles! Very cool.

[@Hydrazine1000]

Now _this here_ @1:35 is what you call *galling* . Two metal surfaces in direct unlubricated sliding contact, where the pressure breaks the thin surface oxide layer and the materials cold weld together. One of the materials will simply rip out some of the opposing material, causing a run-away damage effect.

[@jaymeagher1510]

It's gross isn't it? Thanks

[@Hydrazine1000]

@@jaymeagher1510 If you have the opportunity to fabricate (or have fabricated) the opposing receiving conical part: Back in the sixties, ARMCO developed a stainless steel with greatly improved galling resistance. It might help in alleviate/reduce this problem from happening if you can have it made in this steel grade. You'd have to look for NITRONIC 60 (UNS S21800) stainless steel bar.

[@jaymeagher1510]

@@Hydrazine1000 Thanks, I'll look into that. I was thinking we'd pin it for now, it's an easy procedure and will keep things stable until the next thing breaks.

[@LordMustangGT93]

i liked this. And I like it was off the cuff and not read like a robot

[@rodneyj.9495]

Can you guys make some adapter for it? I really wanna put one in a kei truck...

[@clinth6432]

Clean oil is the answer and often well before the maintenance schedule.

[@eddy0803]

Well, this is a little more powerful then my 250hp 1.5 3 cylinder in my fiesta

[@mini_max8725]

Love my x3, close to 230 horse stock turbo on e85. It runs!

[@davenalanna]

Always wondered how they hold up I run a good bit more boost on my x3 and change the plastic gears every 500-1000 miles. They tend to break running the motor cold

[@Steingassm]

Polaris Prostar 2.0 2000cc motor next please

[@nativeenterpriseracing6995]

Appreciate your time!

[@jamesgasper8630]

Such an awesome breakdown ur da best jay!!

[@blairguinea6811]

Thank you Sir, great vid ! love those 3 cylinder configuration engines ...................especially the sound of that Maverick ...................

[@user-gp6sw]

Talking about the plastic gears, I have a 2019 Commander 1000 (rotax 976 v twin) and the water pump drive gear broke and cooked the motor.

[@danielbrealey2924]

That was a great little tear down vid! As a fellow mechanic, I enjoyed seeing something new to me. They sure work those little things hard. Personally, I hate CVT style transmissions and they way it makes engines sit at full noise

[@jaymeagher1510]

I am not a fan of CVT either but in this case the belt keeps the engine from having to accelerate from lower engine speeds and I really think that shelters it from the effects of longer cycle times under stress. Lots of stress at low engine speed generally brakes lightweight components. Thanks

[@danielbrealey2924]

@@jaymeagher1510 Yeah, I understand what you mean Jay. There IS some middle ground, I know load at low RPM is hard on engines. Just like boost at low RPM or nitrous at low RPM is hard on motors as well... I wonder if these race cars would have been quicker with a nice little 6 speed close ratio box, with a clutch pedal and the ability to engine brake in a very controlled manner

[@jaymeagher1510]

@@danielbrealey2924 I think we can have that answer in the YXZ, it's just a lot of work to get it there. Thanks

[@nismofreak33]

insane little power plant!

[@philippericherpepin2825]

I think the rotax 1200cc from a skidoo is a better block for this amount of power and it has a balancer shaft for vibration

[@captainawesome5560]

For sure I have the 1630 in my race ski and it holds strong!

[@gregthemechanicman]

no its not by a long shot..

[@FELiPES101]

It's cool to see something totally different

[@Sir.VicsMasher]

I enjoyed the vid. At this level I would throw the book at this engine with the appropriate coatings and treatments on every moving part.

[@jp2246]

Definitely enjoyed the video!

[@markcozzie]

Stock or modified? ,parts look upgraded and block looks modified as well with closed deck? How do these come as standard? Please more information on these engine please.

[@georgepearce8540]

Another awesome video and a great learning experience. Thank you

[@nathanhill4433]

“The Engine sounds MEAN when it’s ON THE PIPE”

[@jeffdickson902]

Hmmm , that motor in a go kart would be a hoot , until it all goes bad.

[@limabravo6065]

I do love open deck designs, if nothing else they inspire people to learn how to wrench on their own shit

[@800R]

Ski doo uses the same engine , their crank taper for the pto end has a D notch, mine was a mild pump gas tune to 205 hp in a 460 lbs chassis was insane on the trails

[@01010001000a]

@realstreetperformance How is the engine so clean as its being taken apart? It almost looks like it was hot tanked but its fully assembled. How many hours did this engine run before it was torn down in the video?

[@mjodr]

Engine builder in the comments said they ran it for months. Must have been cleaned somehow before teardown.

[@realstreetperformance]

The engine has been cleaned before on previous builds. Where it is located and how it is raced it does not see a lot of dirt.

[@aubreywold]

Thanks for the awesome build breakdown Jay!

[@prtyof4156]

If the O-ring was not compressed in what looks like the same spot (13:07), is that a weak spot in the deck of the cylinder head, asking cuz it looks like it's in the same quadrant of the cylinder?

[@lorriecarrel9962]

That is serious power for such a small engine

[@chrisobrien9334]

Great analysis of this motor. Thanks for sharing some great insight when disassembling a motor.

[@Hexstylee3]

What's your take on different magneto engines that are tapered keyed and start to develope galling in crank nose, balance? Electrolysis? Detonation?

[@paulyaw]

Nice work, Jay. Thanks.

[@tchiwam]

Have you checked for oil in he starter ? Might mess up the brushes.

[@PatricioGarcia1973]

Is that motor built for drag racing? I see the Can-Am racing in the Dakar and other rally racing, and they are very good motors, powerful and reliable. Only issue is the belt on the CVT, can’t let it get to hot or it breaks.

[@TheBandit7613]

Keeping the belt cool is a technique that can be learned. I have never burned up a belt.

[@realstreetperformance]

This one is for drag race use.

[@stevenbooth1175]

I wonder if you could make a lightweight brass idler gear for those or titanium, maybe even carbon fiber. Just a thought 🤔

[@chrishenniker5944]

I bet you can put these mills in a small car, like a Ford Pop, Austin 7, Fiat Topolino, Fiat 500 or similar. Assuming you can find a suitable transmission. Has anyone ever done this? If so, what transmission did they use?

[@taylorgangordie69696]

11:51 😂 that crack shaft dance

[@trevlanes]

Nice to see someone using non-powered tools. No rattle gun to be seen!

[@jaymeagher1510]

I'm sure my hands would hurt less with power tools but I avoid using them for the most part. When I was a flat rate tech I was pretty guilty of wielding impact guns! Thanks

[@dosstheboss100]

The yamaha apex engines hold up well to boost and abuse and are very similar to these

[@WyFoster]

Reminds me of a complicated version of my Honda GX200 that makes 2.3 hp per ci NA.

[@gregthemechanicman]

not even close lol..

[@WyFoster]

@Gregory Crowder 27 lb engine that makes 40hp. Very impressive considering its a 2 valve with no turbo.

[@spiroskatsikas]

Love seeing this little motor 😍 ❤️

[@thewhiteeazye2728]

The name on the side says it all. Rotax.

[@tetttettamilli6761]

@Real Street Performance - What really caught my attention was the indifference given to 'piston ring orientation'. Thus, was a compression test done on this motor to see the difference in individual cylinder contribution? So ring orientation isn't critical in performance engines (the closer the ring gaps lining-up, doesn't affect power loss)? How does one prevent ring movement to the point of their orientation robbing power? Can any such ring movement be prevented, or minimized, by orienting them more than the 45° (or whatever's called for) during engine assembly?

[@gregthemechanicman]

simply, you don't. you can move the rings to whatever orientation you like initially for break in but as the engine breaks in and runs those rings will "spin" around the piston as some points they'll line up but as it runs longer they will again keep spinning around and not line up... i think the crosshatch on the cylinder walls helps them spin... but realistically, you wouldn't want a ring to stay stationary you'd want it to spin and evenly wear all the way around as the engine ages..plus a spinning ring means a ring that's able to do its job.... if locked in one place it'll just get coked up from carbon and quickly cause compression loss.. only engines i have seen that stop the rings from spinning are little 2 stroke weed eater type engines I have seen have a pin that stops the rings from moving. but those engines also dont live or work and run for as long as these engines do.

[@joelg6740]

@@gregthemechanicman Pretty much every gasoline 2 strokes engines have an anti rotation pin so that the ring gap stays in one place on a supported part of the cylinder. They don't live long if the pin comes out as the ring will rotate and catch in a port

[@SosopChabot]

@@joelg6740 ya but that’s 2 strokes, on 4 strokes, they do spin. I always set them up the way the manual says but they always don’t end up in the same position when rebuilding.

[@grunfieldf8694]

Can-am has a pin in the ringland on seadoo 2stroke engines to keep the rings oriented..

[@tetttettamilli6761]

@@grunfieldf8694 Thanks.

[@ben7020]

That's really cool to see 😎 Thank you

[@leslienordman8718]

Excellent video, thanks! To what application was this engine put to? Motorcycle? Automobile? Drag racing? Endurance racing? Street driving? Knowing how the engine is used would help me understand better the shape that it is in. Thanks!

[@realstreetperformance]

A Drag Racing side-by-side

[@231pilot]

Just needs a gearbox and a small aerobatic airplane 😍

[@brucegill4218]

Could you show it a teardown of a Polaris RZR 900 if possible thank you

[@begone30]

I would have liked to know what the bore tapper is? Especially if been honed.

[@scottscott5301]

Great job!

[@MrMarkjax]

it all allows so much slip so that these things dont break rods im guessing, its crazy how these things and bikes make so much power but yet would be no good for moderate to heavy vehicles.

[@onthechip6739]

Would love to see an artic cat z1 turbo 1100, awesome to see. Thanks

[@Burley_Bert]

This seems like a good motor for a cycle car. Imagine a Healy or Midget with one of these

[@Rad_Triumph_765_RS]

3 cylinder motors are amazing. This would be a blast in a little roadster car.

[@jaypisme2343]

Would be awesome in a smaller airplane

[@jaypisme2343]

They think 180 is crazy power this would make 250 easy and live

[@chrishenniker5944]

I thought it could work for a car like the Austin 7, Fiat Topolino, Hillman Imp, MGA, MG Midget, Frogeye Sprite, Morris 8, Ford Pop, or something similar. Question is what transmission do you use and how do you fit it?

[@Cerberus984]

🤣 that engine is smaller than my gaming pc case

[@kylewierzbicki95]

Great video!

[@richardwilliams9181]

The nose of the crank probably ended up the way it did because it was never designed to make the power it is

[@mjodr]

There are guys making more power than that. There must be a solution, but the presenter is used to tearing down other engines and didn't really know the answer so he just left it at "That needs to be addressed." I'd be saying the same thing, lol.

[@richardwilliams9181]

@@mjodr Just because other people make more power on the same platform doesn't mean it wasn't designed for the power they're making. It all depends on how you utilize the power. If you're hard launching it every chance you get, it can give these kinds of results. If you're relatively easy on it, it'll last a bit longer

[@mjodr]

@@richardwilliams9181 I think you missed the point of what I wrote. There are side by side guys making more than 400 horsepower on this platform. I'm pretty sure at least one of them has found a way to not get that material transfer to occur on that crankshaft taper. Your original post was kinda suggesting "Don't do this, because it doesn't work (with 400 hp)". My point is people are making MORE horsepower than that in some crazy builds, so what are they doing to combat this? It's clear from the video this is a drag racing motor. Their goal is not to launch it softer to make that part last longer.

[@richardwilliams9181]

@@mjodr What I'm saying is the problem is a problem because the engine platform was never designed to make the power they are making. It has the taper fit because it was only designed for the factory hp rating whatever that is. I wasn't trying to say "don't do it". I was only stating my opinion as to why it happened. Different applications have different stress put on specific parts. The material transfer is caused from too much load on the clutch or whatever coupling they have and the engine is powering past it. Much like a slipping clutch, but at whichever point is the weakest. In this case it was the taper. The clutch held and the engine was still making power. The power has to go somewhere when you limit it to such a degree (heavier clutch pressure/stickier tires etc.)

[@mjodr]

@@richardwilliams9181 So what is your solution? You still sound like you are saying "Don't build these things, they weren't made for it." You think that's going to stop the drag racers who pour $100k+ into these things?

[@andrewsmith4429]

Can someone tell me what the T-handle socket driver Jay is using @ 9:18?

[@realstreetperformance]

Snap on F11Turbo

[@nickpappas4133]

I enjoyed this motor content.

[@amirbell983]

I'm planning of buying a 2020 X3 xrc with the ace 900 triple. My concern before hand is the life expectancy of the engine in your experience if I were to take really good care of the maintenance and not drive normal I plan on doing 75% of driving on road a little trials is 50k miles realistic with not going near the engine or rebuilds?

[@emmanuelb110]

Must be cool to have that engine on a old mini cooper 😅 or a gr corolla engine 🤔🥵

[@billwyko2392]

Correct ne if I'm mistaken, but 400hp without doing head studs? Isn't that just asking for trouble?

[@nick4506]

how mutch does the whole engine/turbo system weigh? the high performance experimental stol airplane space have been using a very rare and old snowmobile engine. this might be a competitive and available alternitive.

[@realstreetperformance]

According to Rotax approximately 126kg or 277lbs. www.rotax.com/en/products/rotax-powertrains/details/rotax-900-ace-turbo.html

[@coreycheatham06]

What is the reason for a tapered crank snout?

[@deeaikens9843]

Haven’t seen your machine in a while

[@98durangopack]

Hell yea we enjoyed it! Nice breakdown buddy!

[@rocketsurgeon11]

Will the DLC on the buckets also help protect the cam lobes? I've been wondering what is better, to coat the buckets or the cams? Or both?

[@plkracer]

The cam lobe has a lot more material sweeping across the bucket, so they don't wear as badly as the buckets would. The oil loves to stick to DLC too, so there is a second benefit. I don't think I've ever seen a cam DLC coated, usually just the followers, but it could be a process limitation due to the size/length of the cam.

[@jaymeagher1510]

@@plkracer I was going to get cams coated a while back but the costs were not acceptable to me. The prep time involved was just too intense. I have some DLC buckets nearing 10 years in service and they are still looking new. It's neat stuff for sure! Thanks

[@connora5387]

The amount of interference with the sleeve and fire ring are distorting the head deck? Or was there also head deck warpage?

[@kellyjensen9425]

It didn’t sound like to me the interferance with the ring was causing distortion. He didn’t say whether the deck was warped. I was wondering about that as well. I’m thinking it wasn’t since only that specific location on all three cylinders was allowing blowby. I’m wondering if the decking is to change the height to allow the new gasket to work. No clue but good question.

[@jaymeagher1510]

It's all interference at that point. Even with a perfectly flat deck will experience distortion. What was happening on this engine was just metal being crammed together. There are ways to check distortion in a static state but once it's in service you're just looking for the signs and witness clues of the leaks once the gasket's "spring" is exhausted. Thanks

[@GreayInAk]

Is there a reason for not having a keyway on the crank?

[@willismartindale5569]

Have a 2021 Can-Am Xmr turbo RR had sunk it snorkel kit wasn’t hooked up properly brand new motor less 80 hours sucked up water brought it back to the shop change the oil in it about six times wheel and coolant continuing to mix change the head gasket didit fix the issue so pull the motor start taking stuff apart pull the stater case off and it was full of coolant inside stator cover any suggestions what could be issue I can’t find anything online about any issues like this .

[@jorbedo]

Would you recommend a closed deck, new beefy rods and pistons, balanced cranckshaft, better valve springs, metal oil-water pumps gears and WPC treatment for a long term reliable engine running at 225 to 250hp on 93 octane?, or is asking too much?

[@D3M0N.5K1LL5]

jesus chris that sounds like doing the most. Is there some reason you have to run 93 instead of E85? E85 is so worth it for not just performance but engine protection. Methanol injection something youd explore? Its so beneficial to health of motor Id prioitize high knock resistance fuels and a solid tune over opening the motor and doing those othet things. Im glad you mention WPC, very few seem to be aware of it. I have had some parts WPC treated and it has drastically improved reliability and drive characteristics in those parts. I highly recommend WPC and for transmissions I now refuse to build them unless the customer wants to add cryo and WPC to the list of services performed as they are all going into 500-700awhp street / race setups. Its now mandatory its that good.

[@jorbedo]

91 to 93 Octanes is the best I can do for my application, E85 not an option. 91+ octane at 225hp ok and reliable? Thanks for taking the time!

[@D3M0N.5K1LL5]

@@jorbedo you've opened a can of worms but that's okay! what's the application and in case I'm not familiar have you done some research to see what issues people are running into at your power goals? did they find solutions to safe guard against those issues and manage to prove the solutions? these are the questions I ask before opening up a motor and pursuing upgrades. I dont have the money to fund R and D so I see what others have done as my first option. second option, I look at the industry and overall. maybe theres not enough data on option one. option 2, what is displacement? cylinders? hlock material I.e aluminum or cast iron. how much support in the main webbing have others with this similar engine design managed to handle 225 reliably? the power goal is quite low so I would err assuming this is a very small displacement motor or something powersports. Others may disagree but idk why they would on this next bit... horsepower reliable? how do you know how much power it's actually making? I would rather focus on comparing the pressures, materials and history of comparable builds then arbitrary horsepower figures to determine reliability. since dyno 1 day can read 1 thing and another day another thing, i say focus on the parts and spec the build based on what historically works and goals. if your talking about a factory boosted 1700cc motor or 1896cc 225 will be so easy to obtain reliability on many platforms. if you are talking about a powersports motor that's 125cc and making 225 that's a whole different story. pressure like boost or nitro is important details. there is no cookie cutter methods to building reliable power for motors in general. for example if you build a 500awhp A block version of one motor it can crack. it will be example the main webbing has thinner design. mfg has another block that's same platform but known to be stronger it can hold 700awhp, 800awhp maybe more without girdle or reinforcements. history is really important if you dont want to be a test mule on a platform. and it's clear you want a reliable setup so that's out of the question. I hope this helps. What's the induction, NA or FI, displacement, block material, and history of others with 225 hp you should ask yourself and share so I can help you the best

[@D3M0N.5K1LL5]

wpc, reality is on basically any engine you can double or triple the cost of the base engine WPC treating everything. the block, rod bearings, rod bores, main bearings etc but at end of the day, where are the common failures. I have a awd twin turbo platform where people make 400 to 1000+ awhp on higher upgrades. I dynoed 410awhp last year and saw that launching caused shift collar issues. i put a lot of time and money into cryo and WPC my parts on my last trans build and it's been successful in the areas that were having issues before. 1st and shift into 2nd were a problem where stock or even upgraded carbon syncros trans with updated shift collar would gall and introduce driveability and shift issues from awd burnouts in 1st into a quick 2nd or 1st launches into 2nd. it's all about being a detective on your own build and building a case then executing on the weak points. you can use history of failures with others to be your guide hwre

[@jorbedo]

@@D3M0N.5K1LL5 many Ace 900 Turbo applications at 300 to 500hp, not my thing, happy getting 210 to 225 with 91 octane. In search of reliability even if that means taking a fresh engine with closed deck, beefier rods, low compression pistons brand new turbo, better valves (exhaust) springs with water/oil pumps gears made from a more robust material, and a AEM ecu. No transmission needed. This is not for land or sea application. Reliable power is the target.

[@jessicalalfeche1688]

How can you find the tdc on the maverick x3? Which cylinder should be on top?

[@KuschallRacing]

how much would cost a buildet engine by you ? and how can cope the belt with this power ?

[@jaymeagher1510]

I don't work on the $ side of the transactions so you'd have to call the shop. The belts are wear items at best! Thanks

[@joblessalex]

I need this in my Geo metro.

[@RolandKaos]

What is a stater? 7:13 Thanks

[@realstreetperformance]

The stator is the coil of wire housed inside the engine case. Basically an alternator that is built into the engine.

[@clevernduruza8624]

It's a non rotating part of any generator

[@golgothapro]

I'm not into small engines all that much; but that thing looks like a repurposed DOHC outboard marine engine. I just watched because I was curious if the crank was counter-concentric or flat though I guessed the former. My question is: Since there's only three mains, why not re-machine to make the ones on the ends press-on roller bearings, build up the crank ends, square cut and key them; and use an electic bldc motor driven dry-sump oil pump and lose some gear-train too. There's plenty of stator for a battery right?

[@jaymeagher1510]

That's a neat thought on the oil pump, I think a material change on the gears in certain in order at a minimum. The roller bearings would be neat, I have a hard time picturing the oil control. My KZ900 is a roller crank design and the oil pressure 1-4psi always worries me when it comes to pressure at the rods... I bet the gears would live a bunch longer if they just warmed the oil. Thanks for the thoughts to ponder.

[@Michael45P]

now we are talking!

[@xmuriikot]

Is that a realstreetperformance?