Rear shock absorber/strut replacement & suspension lift on Freelander 2/LR2

Full length video showing the removal and refitting of rear shock absorber / strut, plus fitting of suspension lift spacers on a 2009 Land Rover Freelander 2
Lift spacers available from
www.beavispits.com

[@ribama1]

The torque setting (that I don't think you show) for the hub carrier to strut bolt (that clamps the bottom of the strut) is 110nm. It is a very important setting because this is where the dynamic weight of the car is supported for that wheel. I don't think it is mentioned in any of the youtube videos I have seen showing the strut replacement. I'd hate to think of people driving around with this incorrect (particularly if towing with a heavy ball weight). Notwithstanding, another great video. Thank you.

[@djgomaz1]

A very detailed video and will be attempting to fit new shocks to my Freelander 2 as I have oil that has been running down the side of the shock. I noticed that the car was making a noise while driving that sounded like a dull rumble so I will be checking if the wheel bearing needs replacing at the same time. Wish me luck and I really couldn't without your video. Many thanks for uploading

[@BeavisPits]

Sounds like a wheel bearing. I need to do mine soon too. Good luck!

[@paulmcferris9494]

I did this job today . Your guide gave me some useful tips and made the whole job a lot easier and saved me loads of time and gave me confidence to attempt. I actually enjoyed the job and only took m a couple of hours . Well pleased , and a happy mrs , as it was her motor . Thanks again. Just whatched your oil change vid. Have learnt it's not as simple as I assumed ,,,. Keep the videos coming .

[@BeavisPits]

Thank you for the positive feedback Paul, glad you find my vids useful!

[@Martw66]

Hi, Just wanted to say thanks for the effort you put in to making this video. I replaced both my rear shocks yesterday, and having watched your video a couple of times it really helped. I took your advice and removed both transverse arms from the start and was then able to push down enough with a long bar and judicious use of the hammer to remove the leg. I managed to remove the top nut from the shock with an offset ring spanner, but only after I had ground part of it away to allow it to drop deep enough into the top mount to fully engage with the nut. To anyone else like me, wondering if this is a DIY job, I would say watch your video a couple of times and make sure you have the necessary tools, then allow a good few hours on a sunny day! Cheers, Mart.

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks for the feedback Martin. Glad the hear you found my video useful!

[@colinbrown4893]

How you do these jobs with one hand amazes me ....brilliant

[@BeavisPits]

With difficulty! I now use a tripod!

[@cesarblanco]

Great video. Thank you!

[@jayco800]

Thanks, great job explaining each step and steady video! I am Ok with separating the strut and spring via compressor, but prefer a good used loaded spring/strut assembly on an older vehicle. Of course a pre-loaded used rear right side is no where to be found in North America for my LR2 at the moment so I may be going ahead with the spring compressor. Thanks again!

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks Jay! Good luck!

[@jayco800]

@@BeavisPits A question about the Freelander 2, I did find a number of these used (in UK/EU) with loaded spring assembly but I notice many of the compatibility charts show the Freelander 2 diesel 2.2 4x4 (all years) as incompatible with the Freelander 2 petrol 4x4 3.2 (all years). Are they indeed different parts on the Freelander 2 variants? Thanks again,

[@BeavisPits]

As far as I know, the suspension is the same on all FL2s. The i6 engine doesn’t weigh that much more than the TD4, so no need for stronger springs.

[@jayco800]

@@BeavisPits Makes sense, thanks once again!

[@breendbarra]

Theres the cup of tea :) :)

[@jonphillips5119]

Cheers for the upload , where do you lift the rear , on the diff and then axle Stands on the subframe ?

[@BeavisPits]

I jacked on the sill jacking points with a high lift trolley jack, then put axle stands under the subframe at the inboard ends of the transverse arms.

[@MrZimmaframe]

Great video, I am replacing both rear shocks either tomorrow or Saturday. To prevent the axle popping out would it be worth me undoing and removing the axle bolt, so that it can move in and out to prevent the risk of it coming out and not going back in or damaging it?

[@BeavisPits]

This is what you need to do on the front. As for the rear, you could try, but I wouldn’t bother. If the inboard CV does pop out then you can feel through the rubber to gently relocate it. If the hub is carefully supported then this shouldn’t happen though.

[@MrZimmaframe]

@@BeavisPits Ok no worries, I have an impact wrench so wouldn't take too long to zip it off. If I am struggling I may do. Thank you for the speedy reply.

[@michaelstanley3961]

To save undoing all the support arms bolt would smaller spring compressors prevent the risk of drive shaft coming out as you don't need to lower the hub so much?

[@BeavisPits]

Yes, you may be able to do it that way. I’ve also seen rachet straps used to keep the hub carrier pulled inwards.

[@michaelstanley3961]

@@BeavisPits Thanks, great channel by the way.. thanks

[@drinternatg6391]

I agree with Dave. Get yourself a tripod. Talk about making things difficult for yourself. Good vid though. Respect!

[@monzarace]

Well done, but may I ask why you haven't moulded an indentation for each nyloc nut, so it's integrated into the yellow spacer? This way the spacer can be supported on it's entire surface. I think that is quite important. My many years with polyurethane bushings on cars have taught me, that they can be fragile if used wrongly. This may (or may not) be one of those cases. Hmm... Looking at 1:05:25, it would appear that you have done that design? Any updates to this design since 5 years ago? How thick is the spacers and how much is the total lift? Springs can sag over time, so total length and pressure should be measured before use. What about the front end? Kind regards.

[@BeavisPits]

That design is very old. My spacers have come a long way since then. Full details on my website beavispits.com

[@mikest2851]

What brand are the shocks? Are you happy with them ?

[@BeavisPits]

Britpart, very pleased with them

[@colinshort3116]

You don't have to use a work mate to hold the strut to tighten up the top but just use a Allen key to hold the center bolt while you tighten the but then you can tork the nut up to the right presure hope this helps

[@BeavisPits]

I tried this but found the top plate rotated when I used the torque wrench. No way to use a torque wrench and allen key at the same time. It is very important that the top plate doesn’t rotate at all, not even a small amount, as it will mean the shock absorber is then rotated and the anti-roll bar drop link bracket will stick out and risks catching on the tyre which could be very dangerous.

[@martinslack5567]

Question: My rear struts have just been replaced by a repair shop. The right hand one has a vibration damper at the front of the strut and hard up against the wheel arch. The left hand one looks like the right hand one but facing backwards so that the damper is at the back and not making contect with anything - just like the left hand one you show at 11.00 in this video. Is this correct?

[@BeavisPits]

If you’re talking about the rubber cylinder handing from the spring tray then these can be discarded. Harmonic mass dampers, but really don’t do much. I removed mine years ago, no issues at all.

[@grantdaniel6767]

Great video, I'm not a mechanic but weren't you meant to remove the white plastic seal cover on the shocker?

[@BeavisPits]

I’m not sure! I left it on for extra protection against mud and water.

[@nikohaapalainen5719]

Hi, Can you manufacture those risers to Freelander mk1 model year 2004?

[@BeavisPits]

Niko Haapalainen, these are for FL2 and Evoque only. For FL1 lift space have a look online, there are several companies making them eg: MuddyMods

[@kevinbrown6493]

Hi there would the lift spacers fit the evoque 2013 ???

[@BeavisPits]

Kevin, yes they will

[@MrZimmaframe]

I am doing this job now and I have no idea why but on the far side rear normally there is a welded bracket on the back of the shock, that slots into clamp section on the back of the hub. But for some reason it is about an inch too high?? The hub is sitting on the brackets on the shock that are for attaching the metal brackets for he brake pipe and other bracket. Is it meant to be like that because the other side just slotted in.

[@BeavisPits]

If the shock tube is down into the hub until the hub touches the brake hose brackets then than is correct. Mine had a small tab on the back which slotted into the hub clamp gap behind the shock. I’m guess that prevents the shock rotating in the hub, but the clamp should be very tight and prevent this. Maybe it just aids reassembly. It is worrying that one side is different on yours. Are the shocks definitely a matching pair?

[@MrZimmaframe]

@@BeavisPits Yep so after many hours on the phone I found out from Bilstein customers support that they had a bad batch of about 200 shocks that had been welded wrong (manufacturing defect). And i am the poor sod that has 2 of them 😂🤦🏻‍♂️. GSF are still selling the defective shocks and I don't think they are hugely bothered. Which brand and who did you buys yours from?

[@BeavisPits]

My shocks were Britpart and bought second hand (new, unused)

[@bens9468]

Looks like the rear wheel sits too far forwards with the lift. Maybe the rear trailing arms also need spacers to correct it. If you get the tracking checked my guess would be that the rear wheels are now toe in.

[@BeavisPits]

The gap will close up slightly as the trailing arm drops, but only a very small amount. I am running larger tyres so that may make it look worse. The toe in/out did not change but if it did then it can be adjusted using the rear transverse arm's offset washers.

[@jpanda94]

Can you just fit the spacers without changing the shock absorbers?

[@BeavisPits]

Yes, you can use your current shocks, but the top plate will still need to be removed to fit the longer bolts. As I was dismantling the strut I took the opportunity to renew the shocks at the same time.

[@lysergiclover]

Just wondered what you did about the alignment after the install ?!

[@BeavisPits]

No alignment required. The camber change is negligible. The rear wheels have a couple of degrees of negative camber from the factory, and the spacers reduce this slightly, but not enough to take it positive. It is more of an issue on the front. With lifts above 30mm the castor and camber will change enough to affect the handling, and it is recommended to get an alignment check after fitting the lift kit.

[@lysergiclover]

@@BeavisPits thanks for your reply ! I was just wondering as I purchased a fl2 commercial a little while ago ! It is lifted , but not by the previous owner ! So don’t know exactly what was done ! Just had 4 new tyres put on ! On the old tyres the near side front was significantly more worn than the others . Probably needs an alignment but don’t trust sts to do it as it’s lifted ! 4x4 Land Rover specialist near me said they couldn’t do the alignment as it’s lifted and they don’t have the specs for a lifted fl2 ! Bloody nightmare ! Love your videos btw ! Very helpful in seeing where everything is located and assembled etc !

[@BeavisPits]

@@lysergiclover I’d be interested to know what the lift spacers look like. I make the poly ones and MuddyMods make a more expensive steel alternative. If you look up in the wheel arches you should be able to tell what is fitted. The wheel alignment process is exactly the same as unlifted.

[@lysergiclover]

Thanks for your reply ! It’s such a relief to know I can take the car to sts ! The spacers are metal ! Don’t know if they’re muddy mods , however there aren’t a lot of options , so maybe ! Tried to get a photo but you can’t really see anything on them !

[@florentandrieux4895]

Bonjour pouvez-vous me dire le diamètre du trou intérieur et extérieur De la rehausse jaune arrière merci

[@anthonybarnes7964]

What spring compressor did you use , many options only want to buy one once?

[@BeavisPits]

Just an old pair of spring compressors I already had. General purpose ones will do. Screwfix sell a set for around £25.

[@anthonybarnes7964]

What I’m doing is a have a bad wheel bearing in the back, right, and I got a hub from junk yard, and had a new bearing pressed in, to reduce vehicle down time, going to replace the strut at same time, I watched your video about the wheel bearing change, I can’t remember did you have to use a certain puller to get axle out of hub?

[@BeavisPits]

The outboard CV just pushes inwards out of the splined hub centre hole. The hub itself can be removed from the hub carrier by bashing it outwards but this will destroy the bearing. If you watch all three parts of my bearing video series you’ll see the whole process.

[@BeavisPits]

My spring compressors are made by Laser

[@spencermclean2711]

Great video of the work required to remove the strut and in what looked like the majority of it in the rain !! Its going to be a great help for when I attempted one on my own car and the info on the spring compression tool you used thank you 👍 it's one for the diy mechanic taking on a big name manufacturer! Thanks again for taking the time to film yourself doing the work and posting it 👍

[@ognightingale]

Hi, what brand compressor did you use? Cheers

[@BeavisPits]

Just an old pair of spring compressors I already had. General purpose ones will do. Screwfix sell a set for around £25.

[@BeavisPits]

The ones in the video are made by Laser

[@ognightingale]

@@BeavisPits Thanks for the info. I have been looking but it seems Laser only do the short version now, however Laser did confirm they would be fine.

[@samitjee2460]

the absorbers are good yet?

[@BeavisPits]

Still working well

[@ruandut]

Anyone have vibrations from incorrect ride height / CV issues after these lifts?

[@ruandut]

I ask because I did a 35mm lift, and feeling some pretty bad vibrations now. But my PTU and diff been worked on recently so not sure if it’s acting up because of that.

[@BeavisPits]

Not that I have heard of. My spacers don’t lift the vehicle enough to upset the geometry or cause issues with the drive shafts/CV joints. Higher lifts are available elsewhere but there have been some reports of problems. Which 35mm lift kit did you fit?

[@ruandut]

@@BeavisPits it’s a kit produced in South Africa (Alu rear and poly front). From what I understand there are guys running 40mm (same manufacturer) without issues.

[@Zeebad_1st]

Does that do anything to the insurance?

[@BeavisPits]

You should declare all modifications. It didn’t increase my premium.

[@partytunesozzy1331]

How much are the spacers????

[@BeavisPits]

I have updated the design recently and this is being tested at the moment. Once fully tested, they will be available on my website fl2lift.com

[@florentandrieux4895]

hello can you give me the dimensions of the rear yellow wedges the inside and outside diameter thank you

[@BeavisPits]

Rear spacers are 17cm diameter and 8cm hole. I can’t give away any more details as I sell these and there are already a few people copying them.

[@florentandrieux4895]

Thank a lot thank you very much I love your videos keep it up and thank you again sorry for my english it's translation i'm french

[@Yaabbly]

talk about drone on, i fell sleep.

[@BeavisPits]

Haha! Sorry about that! I do have a habit of droning on!

[@caintiger]

Hey I've been searching all over for a lift kit for my 2009 lr2 to no avail... but you said you created those yourself? Any chance I can buy a set from you?

[@BeavisPits]

Yes you can buy them on my website here... www.fl2lift.com

[@caintiger]

@@BeavisPits Awesome brother...and great video! Much appreciated

[@innovruptly1769]

@@BeavisPits How much load & shock can the PU spacers absorb? Structural integrity of PU might vary in near zero to sub zero temperature and +30 C, or not?

[@BeavisPits]

The spacers are very durable. I have had them on my car for two years and they are still working fine. No issues during very cold or hot weather, or while off-roading.

[@davidkane8801]

You want to get yourself a camera stand mate make life much easier

[@asbozone]

Great helpful video. I hope you invested in a decent rubber mallet, rather than bashing metal on metal.. 👍

[@BeavisPits]

I don’t think a rubber mallet will have enough mass. Club hammer with some wood between is the way. A lot of mechanics don’t bother with the wood.

[@asbozone]

@@BeavisPits you can get fair sized rubber mallets, not like the little ones used to put tent pegs in. I was talking from experience it’s what i used on my transit van shocks.. I like your videos, they are very helpful, detailed and informative, thank you

[@eddieMurphy11111]

Please make sure you have the right tools that hammer is a wood working hammer you want a ball pin hammer then you will not catch anything

[@BeavisPits]

Yes, it is the wrong type of hammer but it was the only one I could find on the day. Garages tend to use a club hammer. I used one on the other side, much better as more mass.

[@user-wb8dl2om8b]

Много времени . Почему машина такая гнилая???

[@BeavisPits]

Not rotten. Just mud and surface rust due to the salt they put on UK roads in winter.