How to rebuild a CS130 Alternator

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[@Querencias7]

Totally agree with those before me that not only gave this video an 'I Like', but that grade it as an EXCELLENT step-by-step tutorial. Well said, well done sir! Right up there with other professional how-to's. I like the way your carefully disassemble the unit and put it back together, all the while explaining the why and wherefore of it all. I would never consider myself as an expert in automotive alternators (never) but after seeing this I feel confident to work on my own CS130 / '94 Buick Regal 3.8L alternator. Thank you ML for sharing your expertise. Kudos.

[@victorcontreras6750]

Wow, super excellent video. Very clear and simple . The way it was presented was extremely easy to understand. The tech absolutely is a great teacher who really knows how to present a lesson. Has excellent rebuilding skills. Knows what to do to make the job easier. Thanks for a great video!

[@raymondj8768]

mike bravo dude very good video you explained that very well im getting ready to do my 2002 saturn sl2 great job !!!!!

[@RabidDogEOCF]

Thank you, I needed to know how to replace a noisy bearing.

[@irredeemabledeplorable5227]

OUTSTANDING TUTORIAL

[@antegas]

Using Puller Tools it make your job easier and safer. Anyway thank you for your video.

[@rebuilderinabox]

Agreed and is what we use, Although not everyone has a puller and as a result we have to show how to do the same job with less tools.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Very good, thank you!

[@loneallemaney9910]

hey good day do u have any videos on any modification for hairpin type alternators???

[@Garth2011]

Great review....thanks. If I bring one in for a rebuild or upgrade, would you clean up the cases before assembly? I have read the rear bearing goes due to heat from the poor design of the rectifier heat sink dissipation design. The bearing gets hot then fails not due to the bearing design. Also, I read the "thermal grease" used to bond the rectifier to the rear case does not pass current through so the ground side doesn't get a good connection to the case causing added heat. Folks have suggested replace the CS130 with a CS144 when it fails for a better unit.

[@rebuilderinabox]

Yes, we shot blast the cases. Neither things you read are factual. CS144 is bigger and higher amp but most vehicles would require different mounting

[@Garth2011]

@@rebuilderinabox Yes, I always verify what I find on the web, which is why I usually leave a post or two on KZbin etc. to see if I get professional feedback. This is where I got the idea of the CS144 vs. a CS130. Says the mounting is the same. alternatorparts.com/cs130d-cs144-trk-suv-upgrade.html

[@banno6938]

Did I miss you recommending acid core solder ?

[@tesfaygerezgiher1472]

Good job, thanks

[@jacobomatheumarroquin4340]

Me gustaría ver el vídeo de el alternador cs130 en español por mis estudios. Soy de Guatemala

[@Querencias7]

BTW, do you know if there is a torque spec to the tighten the 15/16" hex nut on the six-groove pulley (I appreciate you adding a lock washer)? I don't have an impact wrench as the one you used to remove and replace. Thanks in advance.

[@kerryr.miessner8792]

Querencias7 I bypassed my external reg. & installed an alt. w/ built-in reg. Now my Gen lite stays on. Any answers?

[@ModelistBryansk]

Молодец!

[@antegas]

Like!

[@tarolas22]

18:55 a wire toot brush?

[@rebuilderinabox]

Or scrape with a knife

[@raymondj8768]

yep i have a few of them they look just like a tooth brush but with wire

[@badazzone1]

Never had a rear bearing failure on these alternators just the rectifiers will not last a year

[@timramich]

+badazzone1 Try an Iceberg housing.

[@raymondj8768]

badazzone1 dude will a bad rectifier make my lights go dim and bright back and forth thay do that all the time but shes charging 14.6 volts with everything on still do you have any idea what that could be???

[@jeremyarnold629]

Lock washers are not needed at all the way these are designed they will never back off for the way they spin against backwards threads... done many of these without an issue and no lock washer was needed.

[@rebuilderinabox]

That's true. You don't HAVE to have one. We advise that you do(particularly on the CS). The lock washer's purpose is not necessarily just to prevent loosening. It will also help establish a true fit for the ID of the pulley on the shaft. Bear in mind, a self tensioner will cause a lot of side pressure on a multi-groove pulley.

[@carolinabeacher1558]

this alternator is not backwards threads.

[@rebuilderinabox]

Good point. Alternators are CW threads. Volvo has 1 single application with CCW (LH) threads, but is very uncommon.