REBUILDING A BARN FIND R32 SKYLINE | PART 5

[@CrazyCorizma]

I assume it’s rod knock but it could also be a timing/drive belt tensioner that is failing hard which can also cause a knocking sound which would explain why it’s only in the higher rpms

[@rubberbandman2540]

they run a fixed bearing style tensioner and the tensioner does not move under rpm

[@headchef5680]

And if its anything like an sr20 tensioner you can hear the chain rattle on start up before oil gets back into the tensioner

[@TURBOTRISTO]

i agree

[@RexH]

i will check those! cheers brother

[@talha06kose]

Its definitely rod knocking

[@Vinny2stepin]

Don’t ever have me waiting for a video that long again 😩❤

[@dhlh145]

That's what I'm saying

[@Pharrell1]

FRRRRRR

[@Kingxr6t]

I no! RIGHT 😢

[@jhettbrewin322]

Bro I've been edging this whole time 😢

[@xaviercourtney6510]

100%

[@rblifestyle9964]

Hey bro I had the exact same problem myself. It’s the lifters making all that noise. They’re hydraulic and after a while of sitting they go as hard as a rock. Its an easy fix though you just need to pull the cams out and bleed the lifters.

[@xmxlyyy]

Can RB lifters really sound like rod knock? I have never heard lifters cause that deep of a knock before

[@iserdigital]

Wow, lets hope that that is the case

[@rblifestyle9964]

@@xmxlyyy they definitely can, my one sounded horrendous I was 100% certain the engine was screwed until someone told me to do the lifters. No matter what it’s worth doing because those lifters will be rock solid and definitely making noise after all that time of sitting.

[@TURBOTRISTO]

yes they can @@xmxlyyy

[@xmxlyyy]

@@rblifestyle9964 Very interesting

[@TURBOTRISTO]

also you should be acid treating the rust as you go a 4 inch grinder with a gold wire brush is my new favorite rust cleaning tool, it also doesn't grind off any metal, unlike the flappy disc you were rocking

[@hobitsam]

Mechanical Engineer here, check your valve clearances. Grab a feeler gauge and refer to manufacturer tolerances. Also hydraulic lifters that have sat for a while plus likely skipped services mean they could be losing oil pressure. Engine flush after engine flush. Really sounds top end, end bearing is more of thwap noise and usually happens at low RPM, , sounds silly I know, but its cheap to check and its a bit more content for you. Loving the series so far, keep it up!!

[@TurtleTale]

Loving the body work so far! A few tips for applying bog and primer though. You should hit the bare metal with an acid etch or epoxy primer before applying the bog. It'll seal the metal and stop any moisture getting under the bog and rusting where you can't see and it'll stop any minor rust forming whilst it's sitting in the garage. Once your bare metal has been primed, chuck your bog over it and then hit it with any regular old automotive or high build primer and she'll be sweet! For that slight wave you've got. You should pick up some guide coat aerosol. It's essentially spray on chalk that you dust on top of a panel and can see exactly where you're sanding and where your lows and high spots are. It wipes straight off with any degreaser and can be painted over no problem. But it'll help for those tricky spots that your eye can't always see. Glad to see you giving it a crack and super keen to see this build come together!

[@nicholasgunson2945]

Not a panel beater but doing a resto myself and have learnt from panel beaters. When sanding don’t work in one spot. Especially with orbital sander. You’ll risk warping metal. Also if you work in one spot you won’t get a good end product. Work the whole area. And on curved panels go in a long diagonal motion so you don’t put lines in the body. Or dig into the panel. If you just work one spot you’ll probably end up with a low point. If you are sanding one spot a lot more. When priming, if you’ve got any leftover. Just build up the area that u sanded more of I go 120/180 grit to sand of clear coat, etc. then after primer I go 180, guide coat, 320, prime again. 320, 600 wet sand. Then ultra fine pad just to get any little scratches out. Good luck with it

[@jyeseeley7367]

Got my dinner and a new Rex video. Life’s good

[@2304-x3s]

Yep and a few Ong bays, life's really good

[@AlphaBoostPerformance1]

Bottom end bearing for sure ! Drop the oil sump & do a inspection.

[@thegingerpowerranger]

It sounds like noisy lifters to me, also makes sense why it's only happening once you rev it Worth ruling this out as it's an easy job to resolve versus rebuilding the bottom end

[@larssmith6780]

Just bought my own barnfind, a 1989 toyota AE92 Trueno. doesnt need nearly as much work as this as its only been sitting 7 years. but the previous owner removed the spoiler before parking it up but didnt plug up the bolt holes so it has rusted through the spare wheel well... only cost me $4000 nzd though and runs like a dream.

[@Saylesshomie]

Fck I’ve been looking for a Trueno all over Auckland with zero lucks lucky you

[@larssmith6780]

@@Saylesshomie haha right place right time for me. I bought it from market place within 15mins of it being listed. It was in tauranga so I had to drive 450kms but they’re so rare nowadays so I don’t regret it.

[@thesovietvorona1007]

I got lucky in my first barn find. Not JDM. But a Fiero that sat since the 90s and somehow albeit with issues it ran all the way home.

[@Saylesshomie]

@@larssmith6780 needa start searching out of Auckland now ay few in welli but man to tow that sht for 7 hours drive gonna be too much 🤣🤣🤣 but man good on you

[@whosfrogj]

Rod knock usually happens at lower RPMs than that, it could be a tensioner or something that's making that noise when you rev it out

[@xmxlyyy]

Incorrect

[@whosfrogj]

@@xmxlyyy elaborate?

[@xmxlyyy]

@@whosfrogj Rod knock can occur at any RPM depending on the state of the bearing(s) that give out. I know because I've heard in person.

[@whosfrogj]

​@@xmxlyyy although that's true, most rod knocks i've heard and worked on usually sound a lot more violent than this, 99% sure it's a timing component but that might just be me being optimistic on rex's behalf

[@heheheehehehehehe185]

get a dust respirator, protect your lungs when sanding brother.

[@abdautomotive]

it's only a slight knock, i would drop the sump & throw a new set of bearings in, i doubt theres any crank damage.

[@ryandonderwinkel83]

Let’s goooo, new vid. This series is an inspiration to my mr2 build that was $400

[@aaronlepham7828]

hey rex, i love this build series and how the car is going so far! Just a friendly reminder to use safety gear especially on the face when u use a wire wheel. I’m a boily and i use them all the time, great tool but super dangerous when the wires chip off and come flying at u, i’ve had a few puncture into my skin and that’s with long sleeves so i wouldn’t want to see it hit u in the face area! keep up the great work bro you’re a local legend to me 🤙

[@jeremy9806]

Pull the plug wires one by one and see if the knock stops. It will tell you if it is a knock, and which cylinder. It could be harmonic balancer. Granted it's harder to hear, but sounds okay at idle, not vibrating or anything. Hard to tell from video.

[@JoeSmith-jp7bk]

why would pulling plug leads get rid of a bottom end knock? if your rod bearing is kaput it wont matter if the cylinder is firing. Although im more inclined to think he might be hearing detonation at high rpm rather than a knock but it is definitely hard to tell on vid. maybe timing is set wrong im not really familiar with jap engines tho i work on falcons and if you mess up the timing they ping something fierce and it sounds like knock

[@TURBOTRISTO]

get the engine machining done and a set of mxr rods, some forgies and buys some headstuds and acl bearings and you and me can slap together a big power rb20 drifter, I also have an exedy hook up now

[@beauhoskin2402]

Hey Rex handy tip if not known yet for cutting aluminium get a bar of soap an with the grinder on rub it on each side of the blade

[@mightymodder1178]

Jack up the engine from underneath, unbolt the engine mounts, take off the pan, replace the bolt on the rod thats knocking add lock tight, that's what they did at ford for the barras

[@motov8-garage832]

When you use a metal grinder or cutting wheel anywhere around windows/glass/mirrors, its best to cover the glass with a moving balnket or something. The sparks put permanent marks into the glass. It'll be aspecially noticeable when the windows are tinted or in the light. Mainly talking about how you cut that rear winshield wiper bolt off directly over the window.

[@r33jye62]

If it has hydraulic lifters in the head make sure they're bled properly because they can make a knocking sound at high rpm which ended being the problem with my rb25

[@mitchelltownes6251]

Rb20 has solid lifters like rb25neo and rb26

[@robertrockstroh8277]

Id go with with this. That knock does not sound like a big end or a a gudgeon pin. That would be a "thicker" and "deeper" sounding knock. its higher up. Id be looking at the lifters too

[@7_au]

Lifters and timing tensioners can also be the cause. Just stiff and old, could also be rod knock but id recommend checking everything before condemning the motor

[@keirahillman8830]

i’ve just started watching your channel and i’ve been learning so much

[@Stoner_Jesus]

Check all the timing components. If it’s only at high rpm could be a good sign

[@germixslav9940]

Knocking or engine knock is a noise that can occur when there is an improper detonation of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders of your engine. It's typically caused by one or more of the following factors: 1.Low Octane Fuel: Using fuel with too low of an octane rating for your engine can cause knocking, especially at higher RPMs. Make sure you are using the recommended octane rating for your RB20 engine. High-compression engines like the RB20 typically require higher octane fuel to prevent knocking. 2.Ignition Timing: Incorrect ignition timing can lead to knocking. Check to ensure that your ignition timing is set correctly according to the manufacturer's specifications. If it's too advanced, it can cause knocking. 3.Carbon Buildup: Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber can lead to hot spots, increasing the risk of knocking. Regular maintenance, including cleaning the carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and valves, can help prevent this issue. 4.Fuel Quality: Poor-quality or contaminated fuel can contribute to knocking. Always use clean and reputable fuel sources to ensure the quality of the fuel going into your engine. 5.Spark Plugs: Worn or improperly gapped spark plugs can affect the combustion process and may contribute to knocking. Make sure your spark plugs are in good condition and properly gapped. 6.Engine Management: Issues with your engine's management system, such as a malfunctioning knock sensor, can lead to knocking. It's important to diagnose and repair any problems in your engine management system. 7.Overheating: Engine overheating can lead to knocking. Ensure your cooling system is functioning properly and that your engine is not running too hot. 8.Mechanical Problems: Internal engine issues, such as piston damage or worn bearings, can also lead to knocking. These problems may require a more in-depth inspection and potentially an engine rebuild or repair. If you're experiencing knocking at higher revs, it's essential to address the issue promptly to avoid potential engine damage. It's a good idea to consult with a qualified mechanic or tuner who is experienced with RB20 engines to diagnose and resolve the problem properly. They can perform tests and inspections to determine the specific cause of the knocking and recommend the necessary repairs or adjustments.

[@DOCTRJ]

It's a lifter or camshaft sound, check the timing cover isnt rubbing on anything etc💯

[@hinx8288]

That is a big end bearing 😎

[@YeehMate]

Take plugs out and set each cylinder to tdc and push down with a rod to see if there is play in any of the rod bearings to confirm your suspicions

[@Snoop_gee]

the body work and fabrication parts was satisfying to see. Regarding trying to get it compliance and street registered dont be scare or be put off by it. Dont take the shortcut do it right which your clearly doing. See it as a challenge see it as an example unto others. Even if the engine is knocking do rebuild episodes for days or even an exciting engine swap. Good 1 Rex press on.

[@jeepnutscotty]

I’m 99% sure it’s not Rod knock, you’d hear it at idle and all through the rev range, and be a much louder, more solid knock than what your hearing , like another guy said here, timing chain tensioner or something associated, don’t stress just yet

[@fatmamlast619]

Im no professional at all but if i was you id first inspect timing tensioner and the harmonic balancer, then pull off the oil pan and check the bearing caps if its rod knock it sounds slight and could probably get away with just new bearing caps. If not that it might be somthing with the head but i dont know iv never worked on rbs before. id love to see a rebuild of the rb if it comes down to it instead of a swap. Love the vids rex and wish you the bests of luck on the rb🤞

[@scriberz]

I had a similar noise on my RB at around 3000k RPM and it was spark knock. I had set the timing incorrect. Grab a timing light and make sure you get it bang on.

[@tylerrc100]

It does kind of sound like Rod knock, but the frequency is so fast. Considering it's been sitting, possibly hydraulic lifters not being able to hold good oil pressure at high rpm. Or given the frequency, could be gugeon pin (small end) knock

[@K1L0GG]

pull the engine bro spend a day or 2 completely tearing it down to the crank, once you get to the bottom of the engine youll definetly know what your problem is and it should be an easy fix to put it all back together considering you taken it appart. if all else fails bro try get a rb25det and slap it in there, ive seen a couple go for 3 or 4 grand and would be definetly worth it. i still am convinced youll be able to pull it appart and fix it at the crankshaft maybe upgrade a fre parts while your at it. Good Luck bro been rooting for ya since the start, dont let this become an only track/drift car it would be a waste Rex.

[@crystalzues4712]

Could possibly be piston slap, from some aftermarket pistons, since it was a drift car in its last life.

[@Tonyc_1987]

Hey Rex! I started watching your channel with this build. I must say - This is absolutely commendable and I love the effort you are putting into this R32 build. Worst case you can just rip the RB20 out and rebuild it so it is stronger than ever! I am looking forward to the next videos!

[@zanderx7]

It could be something completely outside of the engine don’t forget. Something could be hitting a pulley or belt, etc. make sure your cooling fan isn’t hitting nothing it looks very wobbly

[@cailenmarkhans2904]

Check the bearings on the pulleys it could be that making the noise or it could also be the timing may be slightly off causing the engine to combust late at a higher rev

[@MichaelRoninTV]

I reckon it's the lifters bro. Same thing happened in my car when it sat for months. They just go dry when not being ran because they're hydraulic. The procedure to bleed them back up again in my car was to hold the revs (in neutral) to about 2000-3000 rpm for around 3-5 minutes and it should help bleed the lifters. They could be so far gone they need replacing but at least it's a good/cheap starting point to diagnose. Either do that procedure above or just take it for a very long drive. I hope it's something as simple as that

[@NoneStar]

I'd check stuff like the lifters or the timing/drive belt tensioner like others here have said. If it ends up being rod knock honestly it might still be worth it to put in another RB20 into it just so you can get it to pass inspection, at least then if later on you want to engine swap / drift it primarily you'll at least have the ability to drive it to car meets and use it on the road rather than have to trailer it everywhere.

[@jeffreysintegrada]

The 4.0 l6 in my jeep sounded like that, after i rebuilt it i found worn and broken piston skirts. So to me it sounds like piston slap, if it was rod knock, it would be louder at higher rpms.

[@michaellukies1319]

Sounds like the start of rodknock although they have hydraulic lifters and as its been sitting for ages they could just need a good bleeding ... take the oil filter off and sus out if there is metal in it, if not slap it back on and send it

[@Boydey]

I’ve got faith in the build, you did the impossible and got it running so it’s only a matter of time until you get it on the road

[@THESUPERSKULLY]

Great series, love seeing cars with issues get rectified, good learning experience

[@TURBOTRISTO]

im fixing a rust evo 4 on my channel- you will also see rex in a few of my vids aswell

[@xmxlyyy]

Honestly, an R32 drift build would be absolutely sick. I think it'd be a fantastic way to add a new level of content to your channel. A dedicated drift build + drifting content would not only allow you to be more creative with the build and ignore defect regulations, but it'd likely bring in an even larger audience. Whatever you choose, best of luck! I'll be watching!

[@bugeye02707]

If it is rod knock its still salvageable drop the pan and replace the rod bearings and replace the oil pump.

[@ererwereqreqrqer]

Rod knock is usually lower in the rpm lile 1500 to 2500

[@xmxlyyy]

Incorrect

[@goosegarage78]

i have spent lifetime around panel beaters and painters. the higher the number on the sandpaper, the finer the grit. you need to get to wet and dry with 600 grit. as you will need to sand back your top coat enriching the next coat most car makers use 2 top coats and 2 layers of clear and thats why you get clear coat peel on most cars

[@gokupokemon3040]

Awesome job of your hard work on your Nissan Skyline keeping up on your awesome work of the car drift of your Nissan for your backup plan the engine bay looks awesome maybe a check your spike plugs of your engine or ecu maybe. You can some part of nissan maxima with brakes with Nissan Skyline and the rims and stuff. awesome job on the video 10/10👍👍👍

[@michaelthompson9710]

Good work on the body work but l would recommend when you are working on rusted areas get some rust converter and coat it before putting bog on to make sure are rust is neutralised and doesn’t return under the bog. Also l don’t believe that the noise I’d rod not and believe it is something else as it sounds like the nocking is hitting plastic and doesn’t have a solid metal nocking sound as rock nock has.

[@donrosscojoe5014]

Take the sump of and see if you have metal shavings and shiny bits floating around the bottom of the pan, it's hard to tell listening through my phone but it sounds like a rod bearing

[@laurovids1925]

11:30 One of a Kind 🤣🤣

[@TheKiraYamaguchi]

I wonder if this is filmed weekly or if this has been filmed way before and already finished. Nontheless, I wait for a new video every week. I love watching your R32 rebuild/restore.

[@Muchimuchimeohmy]

From previous vids I’ve seen he tends to upload a few days to a week after the filming is done

[@mickanon5607]

What is your oil pressure doing? A FUBAR oil pump might be causing a rod knock due to very low pressure. In any case the bottom end needs checking.

[@stevebromley8545]

Sounds like road knock to me but I'd definitely get a 2nd opinion cause I have heard stories of it sounding like that and it being as simple as a tensioner sammit had something similar on one of his videos with his Sr20 I think it was. Really enjoying this build loving that your giving everything a try your self keep up the good work

[@MeowMeowMeowMeowMeowMeowMeow5]

respirator is a good idea even when hand sanding.

[@MrMolgu]

Before you change the engine just disassemble the old one and see if it’s caused by other problem

[@alexs5969]

Might just have flogged bearings man, maybe drop the oil into a clear container and have a look to see if theres any noticeable flakes of metal in it. Im doubtful that its top end like lifters or something because the noise definitely sounds consistent with crank speed not so much cam speed, plus lifters are more of a clacking or ticking noise (my 33 has lifter tick lol)

[@konradorzel3871]

it is probably not rodknocking because it happens at lower rpms

[@alexanderedwards2242]

Been there done that with that rear windscreen wiper bolt pretty much always have to cut them they just tend to collect water in there

[@FPV_Engineering]

Last time I encountered a noise like that it was a haggered big end bearing.. Have you done a compression & a leak down test? It’ll become pretty evident pretty quickly if Rodney’s gone on a bender.

[@JoeSmith-jp7bk]

sounds like detonation not a knock, check timing or if it is ecu controlled ign timing look if ecu has been fiddled with, maybe bad tune?

[@JoeSmith-jp7bk]

also could just be a noisey lifter or something simple, id be using a screwdriver up to your ear to try and figure out if its from the head

[@tsirtsa2603]

Likely lifter tick tbh, Id take a look at your belt assembly and see how the belt looks and the tensioners too. Working on my rb25 with the same issue

[@aussiecartel4669]

great video i love watching and learning by watching your videos cant wait for part 6

[@TheChancellorsPost]

waited 2 weeks for a new video and its over in 16 minutes 😭💔 away keep up the good work Rexy ❤😘

[@MrBarryBogan]

Could be anything including injectors. Does it scan with a misfire?

[@sambalzone94]

That knocking sound reminds me of Donut media's RB25 S14 with a spun bearing

[@NEOVVL.]

Could be lifter tick, piston slap or even just a belt tensioner

[@Traxity]

fairly certain i went to your stand at calder park last year, hope to see this finished soon, and up at the drifts for the show and shine :P

[@pindus6259]

I had that exact Sound on my Volvo. For me it was a broken connecting rod bearing Shell. I don´t know about the r32 but in my case i could reach and replace it quite easily by removing the oil sump. Could definitely be worth a try

[@blaizewhyman3121]

It’s your hydraulic lifters mate not rod knock and, you need to shrink that rear quarter before you’ll pull it out heat it up than cool down with a wet cloth, should always start from the outside of the dent and work your way in or you’ll just pull a high spot up in the centre and have lows around the edges

[@TheCunneen]

Yeah sounds like a main bearing. Check the crank and slap some new bearings in

[@JettShum]

Hell yeah drift car!!!

[@barra245t2]

Be careful when you using a grinder around glass.the red hot sparks melt Into the surface of the glass and get stuck there,not good.

[@MarissaPaige444]

so excited for the eventual end product of this car, also just ordered one of those last r32 tees, so excited for when it turns up

[@pax124]

This is legit the only series that i am hyped about seeing

[@eshlalloo2337]

W manz gotta make the best of situations sometimes and this is a w take

[@ethanmatthews4220]

following this series like no other

[@markybuck2640]

Remove oil filter and cut open with a grinder and inspect for any bearing materials

[@AarahN]

You use tin snips, not grinder as grinder will introduce more metal shavings

[@DriftNick]

@@AarahN "Why is there so much metal in my filter?"

[@RenÉ_MiG]

knock knock ... that sucks ...but its an opportunity for improvements ... maybe drop the pan and see if you can get away with an inspection and rod bearing replacement assuming the crank is not scored

[@ShawnT_1JZ]

dont these have hydraulic lifters? wouldnt rod knock be at all rpm ranges including idle,

[@alexandremgj10]

Rod knock os not the end. New bearings and its done, you can do it by yourself and mantain the original engine.

[@decay16]

doesn’t sound like rod knock at all, as its not consistent and nowhere near the tone. + if it ends up throwing a bearing after running for a bit then you’ll know for sure but I’d say it’s probably buckets or a cover/belt or something hitting as the engine vibrates and revs.

[@muffinmaan-z1z]

cut the oil filter open and check for metal in the filament

[@noornabigaming7873]

If you think its a rod knock you can always open the oil pan and check whats going on under there ive done a rod bearing change myself and i reckon you should give it a shot

[@dirtbikesandstuff6469]

I doubt it's a knock, wouldn't it knock all the time? in low rpms

[@Revaluating]

depends how bad the knock is ngl

[@KR_autodesigns]

yea i used to do bodywork on cars its super fun learning as always great video rex im keen as hell to see what this is gonna turn out like

[@faxz3562]

Such a cool series so far, can’t wait for part 6.

[@kylecandy2221]

Try bleeding the lifters they are hydraulic but to me that sounds like piston knock

[@DanielJames97]

I reckon you should just send it with the body work yourself, with advice from your mutual mate. If you're drifting it you don't wanna be scared you cant fix it yourself, you're more than capable with a welder.

[@toughie2722]

Bro following this build has been so awesome, it’s crazy impressive all the work you’ve put in. Keep it up 🔥🔥

[@varsaint]

BLEED THE LIFTERSSSS

[@alloutgamming3024]

i would drop the oil pan and check the bearings and see what kinda shape they are in. you may be able to get away with a bearing kit, or better could be hydraulic lifters. its common issue with gm small block when they sit for a while. just pull em and either soak them in oil for about 24-48 hrs or buy a new set and soak them.

[@KipiSmalls]

Check timing, tensioners, throw in new rod bearings.

[@ausernameidk]

No matter how long it takes, we will wait for you to upload. My favourite Aussie creator creating the sickest build serieses (idk the plural for series) on yt.

[@jrbuch]

Certainly sounds like some mild bottom end knock from the bearings. At idle, it sounds perfect though.

[@PARKMOTORSPORT]

Try not to rub the bog with your hands. Your oil in your hands is absorbed into and lifts bog. Just remember primer sucks moisture too. Don’t be too fussy on first one. Spray putty can fill the imperfections. Looks good Rex hope you are cruising soon. Sounds like hydraulic lifters are tappy. But abit hard to tell. Get a stethoscope and listen around. Also could have piston slap. Let it run for ages and make sure there all getting lubrication should get better.

[@Fibbz_Nz]

What about putting fibreglass wide body kit on rear

[@EltonEhlin]

isnt it kinda easy to change the rod bearings if that is the problem