Fixing Damaged Board Game Boxes | The HeroQuest Restoration Project

Always Board Never Boring has gradually been restoring a very badly damaged copy of HeroQuest from MB Games. In this video, he takes the final step in the restoration project by tackling the box, which is in a shocking state. The video steps through a lot of different processes, which can be applied to any damaged box you may have.
Please note, these are methods that have worked for Always Board through the years. They may not always be the best way to approach the task, but they are proven. However, please undertake any repairs with care, especially with rare games. Always Board Never Boring cannot accept any responsibility for loss or damages arising from following any of the tips in this video.
Here are some time stamps to help you get to the bits you're most interested in:
00:00 Intro
01:20 Removing tape
04:38 Flattening cardboard
05:54 Fixing separated card
07:49 Repairing scuff marks
09:13 Fixing box corners
13:45 Repairing ripped sides
15:20 Solutions for damaged images
16:18 Sealing damaged cardboard
16:52 The finished job
#HeroQuest #restoration #repair
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[@diaz5292]

"Look at the muscularity!"...😀👍

[@adrianobenevides]

That was an amazing work! Congratulations for the video and the video edition was also great!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thank you.

[@nickgraney2119]

Watching the start of the video when you showed the box damage I really didn't think you would be able to make much of it. Really good end result. It would be interesting to see the original sellers reaction to how it is now after being restored. Great job!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

It's definitely the most challenging box I've had to work on (and will remain so until I do my Advanced Heroquest box!). Considering how much I had to repair and replace on this set, I don't think the original seller would even recognise it anymore!

[@daviddupont517]

You are a Hero. You saved this box and finish your quest

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

This does feel like it's been quite the quest to get to this point.

[@UnderTheSkin13]

I do love me some restorations. When cleaning up the attic I took the chance to at least repair the blown corners of some board games there. Personally I grabbed some thin card instead of thick, archive card to more strongly brace those corners. As a small aside, when weighing down the corner of your boxes, you can lay one book flush with the corner, but you can put the other books with their centers on the other book's corner for optimum weight. The only downside is that if the top books are too heavy, the corner of the bottom book can dig into the cover.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I like to keep the weight evenly distributed across the surface of the books so I don't end up with any bits of the box thinning out more than others. The three books I use weigh a ton! Thanks for sharing your own approach; fixing up a badly dinged game is vey satisfying.

[@loken67]

Nice work and good result considering the damage done to your box. I restored mine a year ago and used small triangle shaped pieces of grey cardboard to strengthen the corners from the inside. You can even lift the inner paper layer of the artwork to cover the upper third of this repair. Very sturdy and can be used in the upper and lower part of the box.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Yeah, sometimes it's worth adding some additional support inside, like a 90-degree "bracket" of card.

[@pcuimac]

Dang it! I don't even have the box anymore. It was in quite good shape, but then I decided to cut up the board and use the pieces with Advanced Heroquest and used the box to store other game related stuff in it. Must have gone missing between my first move in Göttingen and the last one to Berlin. It was a german version anyway, so not worth much anyway. Good work! I learned something today. thx

[@Ribby00]

I definitely gotta try this. My original HQ box has split from the weight of having other games stacked on top of it and I want to kick myself now for it. This is my next project!!!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

It happened to so many board games boxes over the years. If you do have to stack boxes, it's sometimes better to put the slightly smaller ones underneath. That way there is less risk of box lids dishing and splitting.

[@Ribby00]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring I was thinking I'll 3d print some inserts for it. That way it's always supported from inside

[@georgeadsett-knutsen829]

Just tried the hairdryer trick; amazing! Setback is a large area of torn artwork, which survived taking the sellotape off has disappeared between the house and the shed!!!!!😢

[@georgeadsett-knutsen829]

Found it!

[@ClanCrowley]

Great video. I’ve restored / fixed up loads of game boxes ranging from 1970s through to ‘modern’ such as Silver Tower / Hammerhal and follow pretty much same process. Although lighter fluid is also good for a solvent for glue / tape. For the PVA glue I use bookbinders glue which works well. It’s amazing how strong it repairs the corners. Also use the same Sharpie too - which can look a little shiny when first applied but does seem to calm down over time. I’d be interested if someone finds a better black pen to use? Also if the corners need extra reenforcing I’ve used the adhesive tape that is designed to seal the back of picture frames. There is a white version that often matches up with the inside of the box and you just apply some clean water to the tape and it activates the glue. Works well. Really neat. Similar where I have had creases have used flat smooth mdf and g-clamps to press it out. With the sharp 90 degree corner of the mdf it can really help to restore a corner that is dinged in. Finally totally agree with you on not trying to over restore with those large areas, best left as they are. Having the box nice and solid but still fairly honest is right by me.

[@paintfrenchy4735]

Very helpful. I have Heroquest, Advanced Heroquest and Warhammer Quest that have damaged boxes. I was young and careless with those games at the time. 😁

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks. I have a very badly damaged Advanced HeroQuest box that I'm probably going to look at in another video because of the flimsy nature of the box.

[@susancassone613]

I repaired Library material for over 20 years. If you can access a color copier and another original box top without damage to your missing section, copy the original and glue it onto your damaged item. Use the full paragraph if possible. I have replaced entire pages and colored art pictures using this method. It works. Good luck! You're welcome.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I covered gluing a print out over the top in the video, and it's not easy to do seamlessly. For a perfect job you would need to have a high res scan of the top and sides of the box, a high quality printer printing the whole thing (top, sides and end wraps) at full scale and colour matched, and then you would need to wrap the whole box lid with it. It's no trivial task, and I doubt something anyone could easily do at home.

[@fotfom]

I've recently managed to get my hands on a still factory shrink wrapped copy of the game. The only blemish I can see is where the old price tag used to be stuck on the plastic and some of the old adhesive has dried. I would be terrified to do anything to try to remove it. But it's inspired me to find other old games I've owned and try to restore them as well as possible. Which led me back here 😊

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Sometimes you can use a hairdryer on labels, stickers, and tape to reactive the adhesive and peel it off without causing harm. I use this trick on new games I purchase that have stickers, but also to remove tape that has been used to repair boxes on secondhand games I acquire.

[@fotfom]

​@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Thank you so much for the feedback. My main concern is that I'll damage the shrink wrap with added heat. Have you tried chemical (usually citrus based) adhesive removers in the past? I produce labels for a living but nothing I've done has prepared me for the stress of trying this in this instance 😬

[@fotfom]

​​@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Love the channel by the way!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

@@fotfom Oh, I see. If the adhesive is on the shrink wrap there isn’t much you can do. You may be able to use a warm damp sponge and gradually remove it but in general I think the outside of the shrink doesn’t really matter all that much. It’s the contents that count. I collect to use - leaving something unused on the shelf doesn’t do anything for me - so nothing I have is shrink wrapped so I’ve never put much thought into preserving the wrap. You could always re-wrap it if you have access to shrink wrap, but otherwise you are probably best to leave it alone.

[@fotfom]

​@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Thanks again. Normally I'd be like you and open it up to see and use the contents. I just feel like this is so perfectly preserved and I so luckily found it, it needs to be preserved. I almost want to frame it and hang it like a museum piece. If I ever commit to something I'll let you know 😁

[@danroberts007]

Nice work! My HQ box has a couple of blown corners on the lid, but is otherwise in pretty good shape. I like the trick with the 90-degree angle! I'll make use of that when I attempt my repairs. #fingerscrossed.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Glad to hear your box isn't as dinged up as mine was! I wouldn't wish a box in this kind of condition on anyone. It was certainly a challenge compared to my normal box repairs. Thanks for watching.

[@zombiedad]

Nice work. Thanks ABNB. That excellent and helpful

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thank you. Glad you thought it was helpful.

[@marcusthethief3947]

Cracking job mate, need to bite the bullet and repair mine so it doesn’t look so bad compared to the shiny new version on my shelf of power

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks. I hope you're having fun with the new edition.

[@thetworoos]

Great video! A couple of suggestions: (1) check out EVA glue, aka book binder’s glue, as it’s designed for repairing paper products and for archiving. PVA glue may discolor over time; (2) an iron (no steam!) on the cardboard (not the art) side, with parchment paper between the iron and box, can flatten creases and folds. I’m not sure what’s in Febreze and I’d be worried about it leaving residue that may discolor the box in the long-term. Anyway, great job!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I've never had PVA discolour; that can happen with PVA-based wood glue sometimes, but I've never seen it with craft glue. I use Febreze because it doesn't stain or discolour (at least, it never has in my experience). These are methods I've been using for a very long time, but of course, everyone will have their preferred techniques and products. People should always experiment to find the right methods for them.

[@johnfarscape]

@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring I would agree, I have never had a problem with art pva but generic wood glues do indeed discolour, I have had sone boxes I restored about 30 years ago go quite yellow where I used wood glue, my Deathwing and Genestesler box's fixed with PVA look fine though. The Ironing technique suggested really does a great job of flattening out the boxes, I flatten my boxes entirely when possible then just iron them, it also removes the lid sag that can happen, with recolouring, rather than using a sharpie if you use a refillable marker pen, or water pen that is often used by kids I find artists inks used through them work far better as they look closer to the inks used once dried, you can even mix the colours to get it more exact, then as you said about sealing the box, just apply a satin or whichever lacquer is closest over the ink, I find a lot of space themed games have a little blue ink in the black. I'm a bit old with my game restoration tbh though 🤣

[@DavidGreen_au]

Using a hair drier to assist in removing old tape is a great idea. Makes sense. Wish I'd known about that a while ago as that would have cause less stress :) I must admit that I was curious about how to restore the missing art, but you didn't… LOL! That probably would be miraculous.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

There are ways to do it, but sometimes I just put my hands up and say, "It's just a bit of age, live with it." One of those things where prevention is better than the cure, and another good reason to blast any tape with heat before trying to remove it.

[@johnfarscape]

I resroring a dpace crusade box at the moment and came here looking for ideas on removing tape from boxes, its something I have always struggled with when restoring, I have used glue remover , ironing and all sorts of things and actually found the hair dryer method works by far the best. . 1 pice down and about a dozen left to peel though 🤣

[@user-yl7lz1hm6r]

I repaired the corners similar to you. I’m sure with the PVA they’re stronger than they ever were. The only downside is it’s ‘sealed’ the lid which doesn’t let air easily escape which means closing/opening the boxes is a lot more difficult (eg almost creates a vacuum/ suction effect when lifting lid, or compression effect when pushing down on lid to close). Great vid!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

But at least now your box makes comedy noises every time you play!

[@timd4524]

Haven't tried out the new Battletech beginners box the I take it lol. It's an actual struggle. I find most new games have no leeway in this department. These are older boxes and actually have a decent space between the bottom and top. Although I also have games from many decades that will fart. Those big deep ones from Games Workshop for an example, and they're made with wimpy cardboard. Actually surprised at their condition after about 30 years.

[@superspecky4eyes]

This is the best cardboard box repair video I've watched all day! I've just ordered myself a Feldher insert for my copy of Heroquest. It's in pretty good shape, it even has candle sticks! The only bad point is the closed door card parts look like they have been punched by Stevie Wonder. Ah well.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

A HeroQuest with candlesticks is the real mythic tier. I do like Feldherr products. I plan on getting them for the two HQ expansions and my copy of Space Crusade.

[@superspecky4eyes]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Is there space to store the instructions, quest book, characters sheets etc in the Feldherr insert? It was hard to tell from the website.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

No. You lay the board, screen, and paper materials on the top of the insert.

[@wilmartinez1]

Good job you can scan the good side of the box make a copy and glue that to the damage logo.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Yes. That is one of the approaches I talk about in the video, but it's not the easiest thing to make look good as you need to match up the print quality and paper.

[@cymraegddraig]

That was very therapeutic to watch. I would love to see you show how to deal with the new snap inserts from the new heroquest box. I know hair dryers are used to push the molds out but I won't lie I've done one tray so far and some went a bit too much out of shape! I realise a lot may ditch these trays anyhow for foam inserts so maybe a tutorial on how to make these? Either would be great :) cheers guv !

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks for watching. I will see if I can knock up a video about reforming plastic inserts. Personally, I am moving to magnetised crate storage for most of my miniatures. It's really safe, and provides very easy access to all my miniatures for games like D&D and Rangers of Shadow Deep without having to rummage around in different boxes.

[@cymraegddraig]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring will these fit in the boxes ? Or are you going to customise it and bin a lot of it

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

@@cymraegddraig No. Half the point of the magnetised storage crates is they stack on the shelf and allow easy access to all of my miniatures. If I want to play D&D, I don't want to open half a dozen different board game boxes to grab everything I need. However, I don't bin anything. Original inserts go into storage, so if I ever decide to pass the game on I can restore it to its original condition. I should also point out I don't do crates for every game I own. Sometimes the inserts are fine, like the ones in Godtear, and I have a Feldherr insert for my original HeroQuest (and plan to get one for Space Crusade too). For some unpainted games, the miniatures are just thrown into the box loose.

[@MariosIliofotou]

Great video as always! I usually use wood glue (instead of PVA) when fixing my boxes and they hold really well for years.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@gothamgoon4237]

Pretty good but I am going to use stylized plastic cornering to reinforce mine. It may not give you that original look but it will sure make the box stronger, fix the blown corners and protect the box from further damage. I'm a scale model maker so it won't be too hard to pull off. I'll be using a style that will match the HeroQuest style of art. At least the bottom of your box is in better condition then mine. My old copy of Heroquest has so much scuffing on the bottom half, the picture and art is obscured. It saw heaps of use when I was a kid and not much tender loving care and like most kids just used tape to fix the corners. Great video. I just received my copy of the new re-release mythic tier Heroquest and I love most of the art. The detail in the figures is great although they lack the quality of the originals and seem small in scale. I think it's a lesser quality plastic used in the molds. The Dragon is fantastic. Now I just need people to play with.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

The corner protectors sound interesting, and I'm pleased to hear you are happy with the new edition.

[@Stinkyfinger2468]

Loved this series , sad to see it finished

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks for watching It. Even though the restoration is finished it’s definitely not the end of my HeroQuest coverage!

[@Stinkyfinger2468]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring makes me want to get a run down copy and restore it

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

It's a very satisfying thing to do.

[@goodjessehobbies]

One, I never would have thought you could repair a blown box corner with only PVA, amazing. Two, you might experiment with an oil paint pen for a bolder black than the sharpie. (They have felt tips and a shaker inside and very high contrast bold satin black) and Three, if you ever need to get sticky tape residue off of anything without causing damage, try Lighter Fluid, it cleans just about anything and I have a video about it on my channel. ;)

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks for the suggestion on the oil paint pens. I have to say, I advise very strongly not using lighter fluid on board games and I would never personally make that recommendation in one of my videos. You should be able to get tape residue off with heat, or in a bad situation a small amount of nail polish remover on a cotton bud, although even then used with caution.

[@goodjessehobbies]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Have you ever tried Lighter Fluid? Nail polish remover is way more harsh as it contains acetone.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

They make acetone-free nail polish remover. Even then, people need to test and take care. I always recommend gentle heat as the primary method.

[@thetworoos]

Lighter fluid is indeed a great cleaning tool for game boxes, it removes dirt and residue then evaporates. A great product for box restorations!

[@logothaironsides2942]

It looks way better. The corners look strong. Im thinking you wouldnt need a specialised card if you just wrapped some ordinary card in greaseproof paper.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

The most important thing is to make sure you aren't going to end up staining, marking or denting the box. The archive card is thick, doesn't have any sponginess to it, is durable, and acid free so it's ideal. Normal card with a layer of greaseproof paper to protect the box should be fine, though.

[@asowle]

Just had a email update the heroquest knight pack is now shipping... I`m uk based, but ordered from the states...

[@freddyfries619]

IT CAME IT CAME!!!! MY HEROQUEST MYTHIC TIER FINALLY CAME

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

That's awesome. I hope you have a lot of fun with it.

[@freddyfries619]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Well once i'm done my undergrad... there will be MUCH fun with it

[@freddyfries619]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Also, I live in Canada so you can officially report Canada is getting theirs!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

That’s fantastic. I’m glad to finally hear some good news about Canada. Thanks for sharing!

[@gilbert9825]

very interesting topic. i myself am guilty of taping boxes together, but now i know how to property fix them. i have a question though. how do you prevent boxes from becoming scratched/ demaged? i would say i treat my boxed games pretty well but after a couple of years and playing with them the cartons scratch and the covers start fading. how do I properly store my games so them stay as new as possible?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Well, the first thing to accept is that board games aren't museum pieces (usually), they are to be used and loved. They will pick up little marks, and those are just badges of honour - proof they are loved and played with. But of course there are lots of things to consider to keep them looking as nice as possible. Try not to store them in direct sunlight, as that will cause boxes to fade. Dust them regularly - dust particles can damage the card and also cause uneven discolouration. Obviously keep them somewhere away from damp and where temperature is regulated. Extremes of hot and cold, like you get in an attic, isn't great for games. If you have to store games in an attic for a while, get some big plastic crates and put them in with some silica gel packs to prevent any moisture damage or vermin attacks. If you stack your board games, it's often better to put the bigger ones on top of the small ones unless you have something crazy heavy. This sounds counter-intuitive but the strength of the box is in the bottom where the product sits. If you place small boxes on big boxes the tops of the big boxes are more likely to dish. I store most of my games on edge on book shelves as it minimizes pressure on the corners. If you do that make sure there is a little space around the boxes to easily slide them in and out without rubbing on other boxes or the shelf above. Keep your shelves free of dust and grit which might cause scuffs when you pull the boxes out.

[@hotrodpunk]

Any tips to safely remove glue residue from old tape if any remains? Very useful video, thanks!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Heat should get most of it. Apply the heat and gently rub or scrape the tape residue. If that doesn't work, you can try a little nail polish remover on a cotton bud - make sure to test on a discreet area first!

[@hotrodpunk]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Nice one! thanks

[@sikamika9]

i think abadon black or the old chaos black from citadel colors on a sponge is hebest solution to restore the black color on the edges? it matches better than the marker?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Depends on the degree of fading on the box and the positioning of the damage. People should test the options to see which they prefer, or even use a combination.

[@ZippyDan]

I think you were "lucky" with this box (in spite of its overall condition) because it is mostly black, and therefore it's easier to hide damages with that black sharpie. How would you recommend dealing with boxes that are of other colors that you can't necessarily match with a sharpie, or, even worse, that might have a more artistic box depicting intricate multi-colored scenes or patterns?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I go through various options at 15:20 in the video (the time stamp labeled "solutions for damaged images").

[@johnmiddleton4291]

Nice work. I tend to to prefer just leaving all the old "character" in place.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

There's definitely a good argument for leaving it as-is when it comes to things like the scuffing. I think it's one of those case-by-case things and will depend on the level of damage, personal preference, and how easy things are to colour match. Sometimes the character is part of the charm and the story, like a badly painted old miniature, but with this particular box the story was a murder mystery!

[@johnmiddleton4291]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Nothing adds character like tape circles either. The worst boxes are the old 90s GW. Once the lid dishes out and the sides bow a bit, it's mostly a lost cause. Some thick cardboard in the bottom and along the insides, cut from magazine archive boxes helps out a lot. I also tend to use this archive tape that is used for sealing book covers in place for some repairs.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I have an Advanced HeroQuest box which is a complete shambles. That should be a fun one to deal with. I might have to look into that archive tape. Sounds useful.

[@timd4524]

Would the fabric softener also work with say a bottom or top of a box that is bulging in or out also. And is that paper the same as wax paper? Thanks. Got an old copy of Chopper Strike from Milton Bradley where the bottom and top of the box have kind of gone concave. Hope you catch this.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

First, just to clarify it’s fabric freshener not softener. I accidentally refer to it as softener sometimes but you want something like Febreze. I’ve fixed bulging boxes with it. Spray on the inside of the box then apple the paper and weight. The paper is grease proof cooking paper, also called parchment paper. The stuff you line cake tins with.

[@timd4524]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Thanks. On second look I saw it was a fabric freshener. I'll double check about that paper with the wife then. Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. Happy Holidays!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

You’re welcome. Happy holidays to you too.

[@dr8576]

Assembling my 3 sets I find I have one complete undamaged unpainted set except for the rat tails - are these always missing? (And torn box corners!) Are painted sets significantly less saleable? I also have the 3 most common expansions but without the boxes - are these worth anything? Would a complete set of figures without anything else be marketable? Or are the figs better offered individually?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Hi, there are videos in my HeroQuest playlist talking about buying HeroQuest, Kellar's Keep and Return of the Witch Lord which you may find helpful as they cover a lot of common faults and pricing, and considerations such as whether the product is still in the original box. In answer to your questions: Rat tails are often missing but not always; broken candlesticks tend to be more common though. Unpainted sets are preferable to badly painted sets that need to be stripped, but a pro-painted set with a really good paint job is very desirable. All HeroQuest stuff has value. It's hard to answer your question on expansions specifically, because I don't know if you're in the UK. I'll answer assuming you are. If you're in the UK I assume the three most common expansions you have are Kellar's Keep, Return of the Witch Lord, and the Adventure Design Kit. All three were sold in tuck boxes that many people threw away, so it's very common to see them selling without boxes. That means copies with a box sell for a premium, but copies without boxes are still in demand. The design kit sells the best, especially if it hasn't been used. If you have Against the Ogre Horde or Wizards of Morcar than you are sitting on a small fortune, box or not. If you're selling off just miniatures, you could bundle them as a single set, but a lot of people are piecing together part sets they purchased, or replacing broken and lost elements, so they often don't want all the miniatures, they just want one or two. Selling and posting individual miniatures is quite time consuming and tiresome, but selling them in sets by type is a happy medium (so, six goblins, four chaos warriors, and so on).

[@dr8576]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Thanks, Yes I'm in the UK. I do have the Ogre Horde set minus box, one ogre needs stripping otherwise complete. I'm missing skulls from Witch Lord and a precipice tile from Kellar. I also have an almost complete Dark World and a very incomplete Advanced Heroquest, but there doesn't seem to be as much demand for these. Have to break out some dettol...

[@Duncan275]

Im a little confused as to why the corners remain strong after gluing, but not that mid length tear.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Corners are naturally stronger than a flat piece . Push on a long flat piece of card and it will bow and wobble; push on a corner and it won't. Furthermore, the corners have two pieces that you can press against each other, creating enough surface contact for the glue to make a strong bond. You don't get the same kind of contact on a tear on a flat section where the two halves tend to rest side by side rather than overlapping.

[@NJ-Jack]

How would you deal with a corner where a piece of the card is actually missing?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

As in the side panels of the box are missing? It can be tricky. You can glue a corner shaped piece of card on the inside, affixing it on either side by whatever bit of the side panels remain. Then you would need to print out the missing section of the box art and paste it on, or paint it on, or just leave it as "character."

[@NJ-Jack]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Thanks!

[@chaoscoversgames5848]

What if I wanted to remove the art wrap entirely?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

In order to completely recover it? There might be something you could spray it with to peel it off but I’ve never done it.

[@gowensbach2998]

I see a lot of videos on the game box, but nothing for a warped game board. Any ideas on resources? Thanks

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Weight is usually the best thing. In the past I have had good results by sitting the board lying across two books, effectively creating a bridge with the warp curving upwards. I then place just enough weight in the centre of the "bridge" to overstress it so it curves slightly downwards. Leave it like that for a little while, then remove the weight. You may need to repeat the process, and you can even try misting the reverse of the board (not the image side) and layering it with greaseproof paper before you apply the weight. Just be careful not to overdo it and damage the board.

[@gowensbach2998]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring thanks. The Bridge idea is clever. I tried weight before with little success, but the bridge idea is interesting. I thought about a light mist, but that will be a last resort. Another idea might be to put plexiglass over the top for game play?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

@@gowensbach2998 Yeah, being able to overstress the board in the opposite direction can give better results than just pressing it flat to a table. Again, you just have to be careful not to go too far with it. I've used plexiglass over paper mats before to keep down the folds, but never over a board. I see no reason why it wouldn't work just as well.

[@gowensbach2998]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring i like the plexiglass over the top because it would help protect the image as well. I am going to do the bridge idea. Will let you know. Another Idea is to actually make a reproduction of the board to a vinyl banner, like with Vista Print. Of course, a lot depends on the size and the quality of the image, but I have made a couple good maps this way.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

@@gowensbach2998 I hope it works out for you. Another thing people do sometimes (for HeroQuest in particular) is purchase a neoprene replacement. There are a few places where you can get them, although I've never bothered myself.

[@timd4524]

The artwork on that cover still hasn't been beaten. May I suggest a pair of tweezers. That one has a different color scheme than the US. Was the black the UK release?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

This is a 1990 (second run) UK edition. As far as I was aware, the US edition was still black but I believe they brightened or lightened the printing so things like the skeletons in the background of the image were more visible. The reverse of the box also had a side bar, and a different image of children playing the game. I've never seen a US copy in real life though, so I can't say to what degree any colouration might vary though. When you say tweezers, do you mean for removing the tape? If so, then no I don't recommend that for several of reasons. One, the metal tweezers are going to get super-heated by the hair dryer. Two, you could accidentally scratch the box with them. Three, there is increased risk of the tape tearing. Four, if you use your fingers you can sort of roll the tape back, which I find much easier.

[@timd4524]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Its actually more of a very dark brown around the sides. Also there is no filigree around the sides. That's a cool part. Mine is also the 89/90 release. And yes, those poor skeletons were definitely in the dark lol. Just thought it was very unique. Kind of like how Ford only sells us the one cool car compared to the other cool cars they export. Yea I don't know why I thought about metal tweezers. I've never used them myself probably for the same reason. If I ever put a picture up on discord you'll be the first to know. Great job by the way. At the moment I'm faced with fixing the box for a 1970's GIJoe Mobile Command Center. The colored Artwork is only on two sides on that one and in really decent condition. There is a section of the rear corner missing but those sides are mostly white with little print. Just a really big box to fix but it's even got the original insert. Of course I've also got the Command Center. Yea that new circular tape thing was a twist huh. I just slice it at the box joint and pull really slowly. If it hasn't been to long it removes fairly easy. Talk to you again and have fun buddy. Great job on bringing that game back to life!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

That's interesting. While the image is lighter, I thought it still ended up fading to black, so thanks for that info. A dark brown makes it a bit harder to colour match for touch ups! Good luck with the GI Joe repair, and thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.

[@recowabunga7200]

wow well done. I must confess, I'm amazed. I'm also surprised: no reinforcement of the corners?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks. The corners didn't need any reinforcing. They're really solid. If you do decide to reinforce the corners of the lid you just need to make sure you do it in such a way the lid will still fit over the lower part of the box.

[@Mailed-Knight]

An end of era, what's next?

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Space Crusade is the next big project. Will be diving into that very soon.

[@Mailed-Knight]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Cool.

[@HeroQuestFans]

I used gorilla wood glue to fix the corners of my badly beat-up Battlemasters box

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Battlemasters is a big old box to fix!

[@joecosier22]

I have one top that an entire long side has come off. I imagine it will be a bit of a challenge to reattach it. I'll post my results on ye olde inn on facebook.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Yeah, that will be a challenge. One approach would be to use upright corner brackets, temporarily attached on the removed edge to hold it in the upright position, and then reattach both corners at the same time using the method in this video. Once the corners are secure, run glue all the way along the separated long edge where it meets the box top and try to "pull over" any of the leftover paper to cover as much of the tear as possible. Good luck with it!