Remove Bearing Race From Hub The Smart Way!

Yes, there are other tools to remove a pressed on bearing race from a hub or shaft. This is a cheap and easy way to remove the bearing race by cutting a slit in it and cracking it with a chisel. You can use an angle grinder with a big cut off wheel, but I prefer to use a Dremel with a cutting disc. It makes less noise and mess and there is less risk of damaging the hub. Every time I get a hub and someone else has done a bearing previously, it looks like someone went at it with an axe. I usually manage to leave no trace. Hope this helps someone!

[@802Garage]

Listen everyone: I've seen the South Main Auto video too! Yes, a torch works. 99% of home gamers do not have acetylene or even MAP gas on hand. This video is about CUTTING the race not HEATING the race. It is ONE method of MANY. It's smart versus using a full sized angle grinder and because the air trick saves your discs. Plus I prefer to avoid heating up large chunks of metal when possible. There are already plenty of comments about using heat. :)

[@TheRealAaronWitchey]

Do NOT insult those of us who are actual mechanics! I have known how to get a bearing race off since before there was even internet! CUTTING THE RACE OFF IS THE WRONG WAY! IT IS SO WRONG! The right way is to press it off and if you don't have a FUCKING press, then what are you doing replacing an encapsulated bearing?

[@gorillawrenchin]

@@TheRealAaronWitchey exactly 💯. He is showing the "right way" for one aspect but I bet he does it completely wrong for everything else....

[@802Garage]

@@TheRealAaronWitchey It's not wrong. If done correctly it is actually less likely to do damage than a press. These bearings aren't sold as a hub and bearing combo in the aftermarket and the OEM is expensive. Every single press in bearing also uses a separate hub. You claim to be a mechanic, yet you don't know plenty of cars have the hub pressed in after the bearing? You really need to chill out. Clearly if you knew it from before the South Main Auto or other popular videos, was that comment targeted at you? Relax, please, and use some common sense and context.

[@802Garage]

@@gorillawrenchin Nothing I showed was wrong or harmful to the hub in any way. Kindly correct me if there is a single thing I did which will damage the hub or affect performance. The target audience of this video is DIY mechanics and home gamers, not professionals with full access to a shop full of tools. Even then, I know plenty of professional mechanics who cut off bearing races regularly for various reasons. It is a commonplace technique and the point of this video was showing a Dremel can provide more control with less noise, sparks, dust, heat, and risk of damage.

[@802Garage]

@@TheRealAaronWitchey Oh, and if you didn't know, it's extremely common to press a hub into a bearing both on or off the car with a wheel bearing press kit that uses a large bolt and various cups and plates to press the hub in. It actually has less risk of damaging the assembly than a press and it is for that reasons Subaru even released a specific service bulletin to do it that way rather than using a press. Many OEM service manuals call for the same procedure.

[@kevinmiller6009]

Thank you so much! After scratching my head for awhile I was using this exact method, but it was taking a looooong time because I lacked the conviction that it was going to work. After watching your video I got the first race off about 10 minutes later, and the 2nd only took 7 minutes. Also, the tip on cooling the cutting wheel was new to me. Thanks again!

[@802Garage]

That's awesome! The more you do it the easier it will get. Thanks a lot for the comment!

[@fryreartechnology7611]

Been doing that trick for... omg I can't believe I'm about to say this over 20 years... I feel old af now😭. But never done that air part I'll be doing that next time for sure!!🥰 feeling old going to bed now lol😂

[@802Garage]

Hahaha oh boy do I feel that! I was amazed how much cooling the wheel kept it from wearing down for sure.

[@fryreartechnology7611]

@@802Garage not in feeling even old that I'm awake now. I'd like to learn some more stuff like that and look forward to next tips

[@802Garage]

@@fryreartechnology7611 Thanks really appreciate it! Have several more cool informative vids lined up. :D

[@houstonmoore2952]

@@802Garage if you cut it on both sides usually when I cracks it will stay open and basically fall off a whole lot easier

[@802Garage]

@@houstonmoore2952 Yep I'm actually going to make a video on that next. 😁

[@treeguyable]

Love all the tips, I often forget this is new info to younger people. Been wrenching almost 50 yrs, we all had a first time for everything.

[@802Garage]

Thanks I appreciate the positivity. Too many people want to jump on and say "just do it this way instead" when that's not the point. Watch a video on every different technique and you expand your tool set rather than having one solution for every problem when another might save time, effort, and money. :D

[@LarryTait1]

Yes , this the best way to get them off. If you don’t have a dremel, the angle grinder works very well. Even if you nick the hub a tiny bit, there is no issue.

[@802Garage]

I love the control of the Dremel and the air saves the disc! Def possible to do with an angle grinder if you're careful though. Also angle the cut more than I did in this video for easier removal.

[@LarryTait1]

@@802Garage I gave my old Camry to my daughter after doing this ( following flooding in Montreal) at 350,000 km. 450,000 and good for another 200,000 ( before engine gives up the ghost)

[@rustyshakleford5230]

I've cut off probably four dozen races but I guess I'll watch the video anyways..... Angle the cut! That's genius! Doesn't matter how many times I've done something watching somebody else do it is always worth it

[@802Garage]

Thanks for watching! It helps if you angle the cut even more, but I straight up forgot to when filming. Next I'm actually going to make a video on just cutting and cracking both sides, hahaha.

[@benjithebulldog5637]

People dont want to admit it. But the dremel is easily one if the best tools ever made

[@802Garage]

I have used it for so many different things. Including cutting the heads off bolts that were stripped holding in a Jeep transmission.

[@98integraGSR]

I've used this exact method doing wheel bearings. Here's one for you to try next time- give the race a quick hit with a chisel to leave a mark, and then use a torch to get that spot of the race glowing, and immediately spray it with an upside-down can of air duster... Half the time, it'll crack on its own from the spray along the line where you hit it. If it doesn't split, another lick with the chisel in the same spot, and it'll fracture like glass. If the race is really rusted in place and doesn't want to move after splitting, you can do the same thing on the other side of it, and spit it in half. For inside bearings/valve seats (things that are pressed into a hole, basically), the easiest way is to use a TIG without filler to carefully weld a line around the center of the race; The weld cooling will pull the material in towards the weld and shrink the OD of the race/seat, and they'll literally fall out.

[@802Garage]

Yeah there are many methods and I just wanted to show the cutting method with what I think most people have available. Your method sounds cool and like a fun science experiment, but it doesn't sound quicker to me. If time is paramount, going heavy with a cut off wheels on both sides will work, hahaha. I'm going to make another video soon on doing this method, but cutting both sides and cracking to see it fall off. And yes the welding method works well too! Thanks for the comment.

[@DaDaDo661]

A lot of us don't have Oxy torches. The Dremel method is best for us DIYers with normal tools

[@802Garage]

@@DaDaDo661 Yeah that was my intent behind the video. :) Thanks.

[@98integraGSR]

@@DaDaDo661 oh, I'm not discounting the Dremel method at *all*, that's why I made sure to specify that I've used it. It just reminded me of a "cool trick" I figured out messing around in the shop, so I decided to share it, is all. I figured it out after getting into blacksmithing and having an idea I wanted to test, stemming from my experience with fast quench times and not preheating the quench oil causing blades to become super brittle and sometimes just fracture during the quench itself, along with stress risers and grain structure causing failures. My theory is the "chisel whack" changes the local grain structure along where the edge strikes and adds internal stress... The rapid heating causes the material to expand, and it's then immediately hit with liquid CO2 (upside-down Air Duster) and is immediately, RAPIDLY quenched down to around negative 100F, before ever being heated long enough to become fully annealed... That "super-quench" causes the material to rapidly shrink and contract while also becoming much harder and more brittle, and the metal fractures along the surface defect along the defect that was created with the chisel. It's more of a "hey, this is cool!" and a neat science experiment to do, more than anything else... Although it's come in handy several times where a bearing race was butted up against something and a Dremel wheel wouldn't fit to cut it.

[@byloyuripka9624]

​@@802Garage i will have to try tig i was shown mig to extract races now im wondering which will shrink faster lol

[@srl2677]

Big thanks for this tip. I fought for hours trying to get the race off. Bought a rotary tool, some chisels and got it off in about 10 minutes.

[@802Garage]

Heck yeah! Thanks for the comment.

[@BJSmith-ll3uw]

You can cut the other side as well and the race will break in two so you won't have to drive it off.

[@802Garage]

Actually planning to make a video on that next!

[@undaware]

I like using the 4 1/2 cutoff wheel because it heats up the race so it expands and comes off easier.

[@802Garage]

Fair point.

[@JoeSmith-jp7bk]

Or you could just cut two grooves horizontally and press it off with a press plate. That way you don't even risk scoring the axle

[@DeterminedBeast]

Man I tried pulling an axle bearing off of a 12k lbs axle today, had over 2klbs of pulling pressure, nothing. Absolutely had to grind it and crack it just to have a fighting chance

[@kid3764]

I've been doing this same mrthod since the 90's. Works everytime effortlessly...

[@802Garage]

Gets it done!

[@rcman6895]

Yeah I always use my grinder and I always cut into the hub I like your idea better I'm going to use that from now on I put a lot of burns on that Toyota mine thanks for the video

[@802Garage]

It's pretty easy to cut it on accident! Use the air and if you wanna make it even easier just cut a slit in both sides and crack with a chisel.

[@williamgrissom9022]

The outer wheel bearing spun in the hub of my 1969 Dart on a xcountry trip in 1986. The rollers fell out when I removed the axle nut. The inner cone was heat-welded to the spindle. A shop in northern MS heated the cone with an acetylene torch to bright red, then split it with a chisel while still glowing. The other mechanics said the older guy was the only one in the county who could do that. They had a junk Dart in the back they took a hub and drum from to get me back on the road in an hour. I later had to remove a bearing cup in a transmission, with no back slot to knock it out with a hammer. I chucked a carbide end mill in a hand drill and it cut into the hardened steel like butter until it cracked apart. Next time I'll try my Dremel wheel or an angle grinder w/ cutoff wheel.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha awesome story. We accumulate some good ones over time. :)

[@marlobreding7402]

Take your stick welder and apply a bead of weld on the diameter of the race. It will practically fall off.

[@802Garage]

Yep if you have a welder. :) This vid was about the cuttin' method.

[@tycenwitlox283]

Check my comment it’s easier. Acetylene torch and a bolt, nut and washers.

[@802Garage]

@@tycenwitlox283 If you have an acetylene torch. I'd wager 99% of DIY mechanica do not. 😁

[@gregraycher4275]

I’ve done it this way before! Now I have the correct tool for pulling races.

[@802Garage]

Over time I accumulate many correct tools hahaha, some of them I still go back to my old methods.

[@MrChevelle83]

this method is just fine for the home mechanic that wants to save a stack of money. yes even i use my torch and have 30k worth of tools to replace any part on cars. however if someone ask me if their was a cheaper way i would explain how to change the bearings using this method to avoid them spending their pay check on labor. if i have the knowledge and experience on the particular repair. ill gladly tell a customer how to fix their car and wont charge them a cent.

[@802Garage]

Yep, I just like to show a variety of methods that work for people who don't necessarily have all the tools! I don't even have all the tools for the methods for every job hahaha. Sometimes the more expensive methods are actually slower as well. Like a ball joint puller versus my ball joint trick.

[@d14lonewolf]

Lmfao, my boss hit me with a shard of bearing race, I still have the hole in my neck from it(:

[@802Garage]

Holy shet.

[@ljguy300]

On purpose?

[@houstonmoore2952]

I just got a chunk out of my finger this morning

[@d14lonewolf]

@@ljguy300 doubt it, maybe, not sure.

[@d14lonewolf]

@@houstonmoore2952 I have an infected hand that’s been fucking with me. Dirty ass c5 corvettes.

[@cliffboltz1668]

If you have an arc welder, just strike an arc on the race. It drops right off.

[@802Garage]

That's actually a cool idea nobody had mentioned before. People talk about welding beads and all, but I like that! Obviously this video is targeted at lowest common denominator home gamers though.

[@tycenwitlox283]

Here’s what you do instead, get a bolt long enough to go thru the hub and washers and a nut that you can use to clamp the hub and spin it with a drill. Heat up the race with an acetylene torch and the race falls right off. Works every time. Try it!!

[@802Garage]

Yeah I've seen all the same vids, hahaha. Personally, I'd probably go with this method 9/10 times anyways because it really doesn't take long and it doesn't involved getting out the torch. Still a good technique though!

[@RM-ub1xd]

Great tip but honestly the price of aftermarket hubs are so cheap on many websites you might as well buy a new one since it is something you may not need to touch again.

[@802Garage]

In my experience, you always need to touch it again. :P No, but seriously in this case they don't sell the hubs alone for some reason and the OEM hub and bearing assembly was too expensive for my friend I was fixing the car for. Plus I don't really like to replace things unnecessarily if I have a good part. This only takes a few minutes! Not that this was a great example of a good part, but this car had a ton of miles and was in really rough shape and it was pretty much repair to get it to end of life. I hear you though.

[@acme_tnt8741]

Check this out. When your trying to get that inner race that you already cut to slide down the axle I use wooden wedges on both sides of the race. It pushes straight. I'm going to try the air compressor trick. That one is new to me.

[@802Garage]

That's a great idea for sure! It also helps if you angle the cut more than I did, but I forgot when filming.

[@allenbowick4716]

Thanks for the air tip on the cutoff wheel. The real Dremel cut off wheels are the way to go out shines anything else out there but they sure are proud of them things. Worth every dollar though.

[@802Garage]

They are super nice. Have you used the fiber reinforced ones that look like a tiny waffle? They last like 10X longer than the normal ones and OMG they cut nice.

[@tihspidtherekciltilc5469]

A well known franchise in New England cut a quarter inch deep slot into the axle shaft of her Grand Cherokee then pressed the bearing retainer on crooked which made the previous seeping leak into a huge leak and denied everything. They used a galvanized carriage bolt for a steering component, again denying, and damaged the front driveshaft somehow. I found that a Very Important Piece if you get my drift.

[@theunknownone5663]

I just replaced the whole thing. Didn't want to deal with the headaches. Plus I'm always missing tools. Save time and body aches.

[@802Garage]

Haha when money is available and the parts are available, it's always an option. For some reason nobody sells this hub aftermarket and the car is on its last leg anyways.

[@wilsonjohn9766]

Right. I just replaced two for $178 bucks a piece and I was done in 30 minutes.

[@H3lzsn1p3r]

Stick a piece of round bar in the vice vertically set the hub on it with the race down take the torch and with a medium flame heat the race as you spin the hub the race will fall right off as it gets hot enough takes me less than 2 mins to get it off. Been doing it for decades

[@802Garage]

See pinned comment. This doesn't take long either.

[@mitrembl241]

The life left on that disk blew my mind with just a bit of air. This is good stuff, great tip!.

[@802Garage]

It seriously impresses me too. If you heat them up they can be gone in seconds, but a little compressed air and they go for a long time.

[@802Garage]

@@Willam_J Right?

[@bertbergers9171]

Does this work on regular cutting discs aswell? Because some days i have to cut like 5’ of aluminium profile and it most times costs three quarters of a disc due to it starting to wear aggressively half way during the cut. Makes me wear a dust mask from all the green residu it spreads into the air.

[@802Garage]

@@bertbergers9171 It should definitely help a lot!

[@EZ-rh8el]

Yeah I’d trust you lol, ima be honest that type of small shit like that I don’t see in the current automotive industry, at least where I’ve worked at.

[@802Garage]

Yeah when it comes to like flat rate shops and every tool under the sun, there are faster way. This is more for home gamers and DIY, but honestly there are a lot of tricks I use that are faster or easier than some of the tools available. I just like to be meticulous and not damage anything. :D

[@blue88aw11]

Although I would just use a press, a lot of good info on this video that would use full down the line👍 But that is only if you have a press available 😁

[@802Garage]

Thanks! Yeah if you have the bearing splitter tool it's handy, but this is still pretty quick.

[@reza_dc2]

How would you use a press to remove the race ?

[@FIBROMOM]

𝙎𝙪𝙗𝙨𝙘𝙧𝙞𝙗𝙚𝙙 stranded now with pontoon trailer bearing off but race stuck THANK YOU

[@802Garage]

Thank you!

[@JSAFIXIT]

Living in the heart of the rust belt, I just buy a new hub. It saves me from getting angry at it.

[@robertschemonia5617]

If you have one or access to one, an induction heater works GREAT for this. Very controlled, and quick. No need for an oxy/fuel rig either. They are quite affordable nowadays from places like Amazon or any of those places like that. With the extra leads for them, you can do a LOT with them, with no collateral damage in tight spaces or sparks flying. Yes, metal hot = bad, but sometimes it takes a bit of heat.

[@802Garage]

At least you aren't one of the 100 people saying "JUST USE A TORCH!" Hahaha. We all know you can use a torch. I want to get an induction heater very bad, just haven't had the spare cash. Have you had good luck with the affordable ones?

[@robertschemonia5617]

@@802Garage yes. I don't use it commercially, like hours a day, but maybe 10 or so hours a month, and it has been great. The only issue I have had with the cheap ones, and the expensive ones, is the clamping screws that hold the leads tight will come loose over time. But, high frequency electricity, some amps, and soft copper, that'll happen. It is well worth it to get the set in the nicer aluminum case with the extra leads. You may not use the extra leads right off the hop, but once you learn what all you can do with one of them and get more comfortable with it, you'll use them more and more. The flexible leads that are just kinda floppy are worth every penny for odd shaped stuff. And the longer ones definitely help for those PITA exhaust flange nuts that you'd burn an old oily, leaking vehicle to the ground trying to heat up with a torch. The heat is almost completely isolated to whatever is inside the coil, so no worrying about burning wires or fuel lines or anything else. What sold me on them was watching my local Cornwell tools salesman hold a head bolt in his bare hand at the head of the bolt, and heat the threaded end to bright red without burning his fingerprints off. Obviously, the heat will conduct its way up the bolt, but try that with a torch and let me know how it goes. Another tool you'll wonder how you lived without it for so long is a plasma cutter. Even a super cheapo one. Now THOSE are awesome. One piece of advice about looking for a plasma cutter, make sure you can get consumables for it before you buy it. That can be more difficult than most people realize.

[@802Garage]

@@robertschemonia5617 I do have a plasma cutter and yeah I have seen the wonders of the induction heater like you are talking about, just gotta pull the trigger on one. I can tell we deal with a lot of similar issues, hahaha. I know it would save me tons of time. I want to use them for brake bleeder screws too! Thanks again.

[@robertschemonia5617]

@@802Garage they work awesome for WAAAY more stuff than people realize. And, yeah, you're right. I have been a mechanic of some sort for 15 years now. I got out of doing light duty stuff. Cars and pickup trucks are for the birds. I went to what I love. Welding/fabrication and heavy equipment mechanic. I also do pretty much all the maintenance and repairs on all the equipment where I work. From huge scrap handling machines and hydraulic demolition shears, to 3 phase alligator shears, all the electrical stuff, plumbing, A/C, and maintenance and repairs on semi trucks and scrap trailers. I love it. The variety. Not the same stuff day after day after day. When I was doing auto stuff, I specialized in internal engine diagnostics/repair, and suspension. Not only can I rebuild clapped out engines, from nitro R/C engines to huge diesels, I can make them ride good and drive straight too. I have done waaaay too many lift kits on jeeps and leveling kits on pickup trucks to ever want to do it again. Something about taking a pile of steel and using lightning to sew it together to make something useful is just cool to me. That, and working on stuff that will ABSOLUTELY kill me, and hurt the entire time. Lol. There is just something about sitting in the cab of a machine, and being able to literally throw a full size vehicle 20 feet into the air so it lands 50 feet away with the flick of a wrist that is just oh so satisfying. Having all that brute strength literally at your fingertips, but still having the ability to finesse the machine to pick up one single thing the size of your fist without destroying it is something out of this world. That, and using a thermal lance that can cut through just about anything that sprays liquidized steel 15 feet up and out from you is too cool too. Just remember man, YOU are the softest thing in any shop. And everything in there can or will kill you, and it will hurt the entire time. So wear safety glasses and earmuffs. Bits of grinding wheel in the eyes and tinnitus fuckin sucks. Lol

[@802Garage]

@@robertschemonia5617 Hahaha I definitely hear you about the appeal of massive powerful machinery. That said, I actually kinda prefer small stuff. Not like motorcycles and RC, but the small car engine world. IDK why it just makes the most sense to me. But I love everything mechanical. I also take pride in making stuff work properly and smoothly and better than it was before. That's what I really enjoy. Cleaning and lubing every little thing and making stuff work people say won't. Also getting more and more into fabrication and custom work as time goes by. Hoping to get a TIG soon, and my main goal for my channel is crazy and unconventional engine swaps. Thanks for the comments!

[@jonnysanchez3833]

I used to use that method. But that was yesteryear. Nowadays, I sell the customer a new hub along with the new bearing.... Let's gooo!

[@802Garage]

Hahaha, that can definitely be a time saver! In this case for some reason only the dealer sells the assembly, everyone else you have to buy the bearing and press the hub in. On the older cars you had to press the bearing in before the hub. So just depends on the job.

[@jonnysanchez3833]

@802 Garage still have to press them together. Here in California, bearings and hubs are on the shelves at auto part stores

[@802Garage]

@@jonnysanchez3833 Oh for sure haha. I like reusing when I can, but if I was doing constant business I'd buy new hubs often too.

[@bonkeydollocks1879]

Great demo thanks

[@802Garage]

Welcome!

[@alexandercabral1396]

I just heat it with the torch while spinning it’s so much easier. If I don’t have a torch though I do the same as the video. Small angle grinder cut and hit with chisel.

[@802Garage]

Haha yep see pinned comment. Multiple ways to skin a bearing, or whatever. ;)

[@jenniferfreeman1752]

I have a air dremel from snap-on it's great for cutting them off.

[@802Garage]

Yeah an air cutting tool is also great!

[@modificationnation8554]

Before you get carried away cutting on it I would just try heating it up just the sleeve it will expand and if you take a hammer and punch you can back it off I would try that first unless it is friction welding itself on

[@RenoBusdriver]

I bought a torch tried that and didn’t budge. I used my dremel and did similar to what you showed, however I went to far and cut into the spindle.

[@802Garage]

As long as you didn't make a huge gouge or something it's totally fine. Just needs to be round still and not cracked hahaha. Everyone saying just use a torch is over simplifying.

[@mbhunter2011]

Weld a bead halfway around it'll expand & you can knock it off pretty much the same way.

[@jaymzstrader1945]

In the time it took you to do this I've removed the race with an air hammer with 0 damage to the hub.

[@802Garage]

Good for you. :) Now do you think this video was for you?

[@mrow9999]

This works really well for removing lots of things.

[@mrslowly9985]

This seems easier than using wedges, cold chisels and pullers!

[@802Garage]

Right? Haha. Next time I'll show just cutting both sides.

[@threadtapwhisperer5136]

Big nastyhammer from South Main Auto, proper sharpened chisel and let er eat. Alternatively, torch the race and douse in ice cold water, shock will usually split the hard metal. Go on and use the dremel, Id prefer to get the work done today and ive got about 30 half used 4.5 inch grinder cutoff wheels specifically saved for these types of jank jobs.

[@joshhunt5274]

Air trick I'd use but in that case just cut both sides ppl it's a good hack but cut both sides

[@802Garage]

Going to make a vid on that next!

[@robertblake8714]

A whole lot easier is to take a stick welder run a beetle weld down the center of the race all the way around and then tap it with a chisel it will come right off every time or drop it straight down to a block of rubber

[@pod9363]

After I saw a guy prop it up on a dowel and spin it around with his finger while holding a torch to the bearing and the bearing just plopped off, I will never do it any other way if I have to do it

[@802Garage]

Check the pinned comment, hahaha. Problem is you need a fairly hot flame and the setup isn't instant either. This is pretty quick and simple for most home gamers.

[@shawnsteinke873]

Dude technique works great thanks bud 👍👍

[@802Garage]

Very welcome, thanks for the comment!

[@staseghrrhgesats1946]

Dremel would be alot more usful if somebady made some higher quality abrasives and tools for them.

[@802Garage]

Yeah sadly your options are usually cheap stuff that doesn't last or really expensive Dremel stuff that is just okay. The fiber reinforced cutting wheels are great though.

[@roadspectre7655]

When this happened, it's shitty most of the tine. Happened to me twice at home and used the grinder. Luckily only damaged it very lightly. Hope next time i change the bearing it doesn't happen again.

[@thomasmurray9396]

I had this problem and immediately resorted to the grinding wheel... And I thought this was unusual lol

[@802Garage]

Nope pretty common when you don't have a shop full of specialty tools!

[@wilsonjohn9766]

They sell new hub assembly’s now with a new wheel bearing for under 200 bucks. Just bought two of them and I was done in 30 minutes. 😀

[@802Garage]

$200 is a lot of money to a lot of people. I charged less than $200 for this entire job. Wheel bearing was like $30 and this only took me a few minutes. Whole job was a few hours due to rust cleanup and all. Old rusty car on its last legs.

[@Nakaamaa]

Great technique 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@802Garage]

Thanks a lot! Angle the cut more than I did and it's faster. I just forgot.

[@drrd4062]

Yeah, the air dude. Great tip, remove that heat also. Many thanks

[@802Garage]

I was surprised just how much it saves the disc. Almost zero wear.

[@droy333]

Don’t cut across the race cut a shelf off the top then smack it. You can cut two off then use a shifter to get it moving.

[@tomwisser953]

I just wonder why you didn't change the whole assembly due to the fact that the sleeve is such a pretty blue and it more than likely warped the sleeve...!

[@802Garage]

No way to know without checking runout and flatness. I reused it because for this car they actually very rarely sell new hubs alone and aftermarket doesn't sell hub and bearing together, leaving OEM as the only option which is quite expensive. That, plus the car is very high miles and on its last legs. Did the exact same job to the other side and both are holding up well so far.

[@TheMRSTEVEN]

It's just a demo you tit.

[@tomfogarty7791]

Run a line of weld around it and it will swell it and it will come of twice as easy and you won’t damage the shaft which is very likely with any kind of grinder

[@802Garage]

There are a lot of methods that work, but many involve more expensive tools that most people don't have and heat which I like to avoid when it's not necessary. This is just one way and part of the reason to use a Dremel instead of an angle grinder is greatly reduce risk of damaging anything or hurting yourself. They normally come off much easier after cutting, but I didn't angle this one as much as I should and the shaft was very rusty. Releasing another version soon where I cut both sides.

[@meanodustino9563]

I use a induction heater. Turn the hub upside down and the race slides off with a flat screwdriver.

[@charlesincharge.5161]

PRO STYLE. 📡👽🇺🇸 RUN!!! That compressed air keeps that wheel cutting wheel cool it's a good move.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha. Yeah it works great instead of using like half a disc if you go fast it barely changes size.

[@donaldmcnatt9463]

I've always used a torch heat the race and it expanse and you slide it off with a large pair of channellock pliers.

[@matthewhobson7804]

wow it's amazing that the damage is exactly where you cut.......that's incredible how that happens

[@802Garage]

Hahaha the damage is not where I cut, it's much larger than a Dremel disc, and it's from the person who replaced the last bearing. I did not even cut all the way through the bearing race if you notice from the close up of cracking the bearing with the chisel. Think harder. Here is a longer version if you want more evidence. www.tiktok.com/@802garage/video/7152704706924776750

[@jeremypike9153]

I think you are a little too worried about not getting into the hub with a cut off wheel. As long as you don't get into where a seal sits or create a cut into the hub that's crazy deep it really doesn't matter. I use a 3" cut off wheel on an air powered die grinder. The trick to not cutting too deep is to cut at an angle into the race. Angle the cut off disc where you're cutting through more material like you are trying to cut a chunk of the race off. They also sell hub and bearing kits. Either way getting into the hub a little bit really isn't a big deal. It doesn't weaken it as they are purposely over built by design. Also I do this kind of stuff to make a living so being fast at it makes me more money. If you have an air hammer with a chisel tip use it. The air hammer splits the race with barely any effort plus you can get behind the race and walk it right off the hub. I can replace most press fit bearings in about 15 minutes from pulling the car in to setting it back on the ground. I generally get 1-1.5 hours of pay per side.

[@802Garage]

I agree with everything you said, and I actually meant to angle the cut more as I usually do, but got distracted making a video. I know cutting into the hub shaft is not a big deal, I still like to avoid it. I have done this many times, part of the point of the video was to show it with the minimum tools possible for home gamers. A lot of people have a dremel who do not have air tools or even an angle grinder. But yes everything you said is generally correct thanks for the comment!

[@natecheatham1032]

Now ive cut races off befor and had lots of fun at it. Lol but man the cut it on a angle!!! Never thought of that! Thank you sir!!!!

[@802Garage]

Thank you! I actually meant to angle it more and forgot. If you go at more like a 30-45 degree angle it takes a little longer to cut, but it knocks off way easier.

[@NoknOnDors]

If you're using a grinder an angle is pretty much the only way to cut it without chopping through the wheel face of the hub... how tf have you been doing it

[@802Garage]

@@NoknOnDors Watch the vid! Don't cut all the way through and then crack it. No knicks at all!

[@DJ-tn9zk]

Cut off wheel, angle cut and use an air hammer. Don't go all the way thru the race 80% and use heat if its being stubborn lol

[@channelview8854]

Best, and easiest is to cut it off using oxy-acetylene rig if it's available. Start with bearing dead cold ( no previous heating while trying another method.) Use a big flame on preheat Jets and add just a bit of extra oxygen to make it hotter. DONT GO SLOW . If you fool around it will mess up. Just start your cut on the race and direct the cutting jet at a tangent to the race. You cut off a slice of the race before the hub gets up to cutting temperature. Practice on some junk if you don't believe it works. You can do 10 pieces in the time it takes to do this cut-off wheel thing. I've done dozens of them.

[@802Garage]

Definitely could not do 10 in the time it takes to Dremel and knock it off, but either way I generally agree with you. That said, see the pinned comment. The target audience of this video is likely 99% people who do not have a torch.

[@channelview8854]

@@802Garage After you get the torch out, it takes, probably, less than a minute. I know you can't cut that bearing so fast with a Dremel. But anyway, the thing is I'm getting really old and I'm trying to share things I've learned in 60 years of shopwork. I know at least a couple dozen techs that have ready access to oxy-acetylene and don't have clue what can be done with it. That's MY target audience. I've done your technique many times and it's great also. Thanks for the opportunity to ramble.

[@802Garage]

@@channelview8854 It's faster for sure. It would be fun to have a race. I just thought it was a slight exaggeration and I admit I sometimes get annoyed by comments because I feel like people miss the point of the video. I definitely hear you overall. It's surprising how many people have tools and don't know what to do with them and how many don't have tools they could put to good use, hahaha.

[@VorsprungDurchNik]

A half-second blast with a chisel tip in an air hammer sends the race into the next county.

[@johne189]

Yup!!

[@fuffoon]

I love my rotary tool but Dremel brand does not last long. Its a great hobby tool.

[@oddballdynamics.9658]

So..... what happens if you knick the shaft a little bit more than a little. I changed a bearing recently with a grinder and went to far. Is the shaft ruined or ............? Please say it's not ruined. Lol

[@802Garage]

As long as it's only in one spot and not around a significant potion of the circumference, it should be fine. Also just make sure the surface the wheel seal rides on isn't damaged, if you car has one. Plus the back face that the bearing race presses up against needs to be flat.

[@oddballdynamics.9658]

@@802Garage Thank you so much. The damaged area is completely covered by the bearing and the faces are fine. 👍

[@802Garage]

@@oddballdynamics.9658 Sounds good to go!

[@gillgetter3004]

Nice job, next time I’ll use my dremel thanks👍

[@l8u8k8a8]

Just weld around it and it will expand from the heat its fastest method and works all the time

[@steveneugebauer2497]

Simpler way heat the bearing race up to a nice orange and chuck it in a bucket of water. Bearing will fall off .

[@SuperJffry]

If it’s an inner race run a bead of weld all the way around and let it cool, it will fall right out.

[@NoIwont]

I never damage em, I just get em damaged... classic.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha actually though. I have knicked a hub maybe one time? And you could barely see the mark. Not like I do these daily, but I'm pretty meticulous.

[@802Garage]

Hahaha actually though. I have knicked a hub maybe one time? And you could barely see the mark. Not like I do these daily, but I'm pretty meticulous.

[@johne189]

As protection from shrapnel, throw a rag over the race during the split.

[@nathandean1687]

try putting it in a freezer first. and let it freeze over night. and they should come off easier as well.

[@homesteadhaven2010]

I do it the smart way. I get a new hub with the bearing I'm replacing..

[@802Garage]

So you like to do it the expensive way! Plus that requires shipping a part or going to the auto parts store. Then you'll likely have a part inferior to OEM. ;) It's easy to tell people to spend their money, but I like teaching them how to save money. (I know you might be joking around, but no tone in text, so no hard feelings either way.)

[@nFlames2]

I just cut it off with a torch you can nick that hub it won't affect it much.

[@norsevikingsir4932]

Or a tad bit of heat, a couple hits then use a puller.

[@nathandean1687]

just put the part in the freezer. the shrinking of the parts will allow seperation of the parts.

[@802Garage]

Won't get it cold enough in this case and because both parts shrink they'll stay together.

[@eagleeye9549]

where were you when I did my 71 mustang. lol I ended up going to a local junk yard after messing mine up lesson learned

[@NoknOnDors]

Doesn't matter if you nick the hub a tiny bit with an angle grinder. That's not a bearing surface, it doesnt affect it at all.

[@802Garage]

Yeah it doesn't matter, but I like to avoid damaging anything I work on. Plus the last person actually did damage where the bearing face sits against the hub back and I have to grind it down for a flat surface. Could have contributed to vibrations or bearing failure. A little care can go a long way.

[@jeffreyhansen1479]

The dremel tool has always been at home in my box. Very handy especially with the eighth inch carbide set.

[@knockywigglesworth1909]

Yeah, mount it vertically, race pointing downward. Heat with propane torch while rotating hub. P link hub expands & falls off! Ex peasy!!

[@802Garage]

I think it takes quite a while with propane. But just showing one method.

[@FixIt1975]

Or just spin the hub on a socket and heat it with a torch. Works every time

[@802Garage]

We've all seen the South Main Auto video.

[@anythingroam2423]

This is a great tip, although you seem to be saving a $35 hub?

[@caklais777]

Wondering where are all experts saying its cheaper to buy new hub 😂😂😂

[@802Garage]

There have been lots. Explained to them it's for an old beat car and these particular hubs aren't for sale typically or affordably. It is what it is hahaha. Also free is always cheaper!

[@richardcurtis2688]

I use my Dremel a lot for stuff like this. So much more control.

[@802Garage]

Exactly. It's just... Tidier.

[@richardcurtis2688]

@@802Garage Sometimes the lesser tool is the best tool. Only use what you need.

[@802Garage]

@@richardcurtis2688 And what you're comfortable with!

[@JohnSmith-mv6bw]

Eric O. be like.... "Hold my beer...."

[@krap101]

This sounded almost exactly like the rubber chicken

[@antiseiziologist3542]

Hammer.... thats all I would need to loosen, then a blunt chisel... oilfield dont use sparky arcy tools

[@joefair4677]

I’ve never even tried using an angle grinder for that. Just seems like the wrong tool for the job.

[@802Garage]

It works well, many people just aren't careful enough IMO.

[@MrBill67b]

The cut in the hub is not a problem at all. The hammer blows are a problem

[@danno5805]

As an older man with health issues I'll just buy the whole assembly. I can buy the hub and bearing from rockauto or parts geek for $60. Now its take old off, put new on 🤷🏿‍♂️

[@802Garage]

I mean that's great. Issue in this case is that the hub is mostly only available from the dealer now and is $100+ and while there are aftermarkets allegedly available many of them are lower quality brands you kinda roll the dice on. Plus this takes all of 5 minutes and really isn't a lot of effort even for an older person. Getting the hub off of the car is far more work in any rusty area. Suppose you could just buy an entire knuckle if money is no object. ;) This was an older car that just needed to limp around a while longer.

[@simonjones7785]

I was taught to crack the race with a quality cold chisel no grinder needed

[@802Garage]

I'd need a quality chisel first. ;)

[@jeffclark5024]

Damn that thing just needs a new hub

[@802Garage]

It worked fine. Car is very old and beat and on its last legs. New hubs are quite pricey for the 2000-2004 Legacy platform and are barely available.

[@rosscali999]

I use a blow torch Is temperature differential is the best thing ever.

[@troyhummon7978]

COOL 😎 never thought of air cooling

[@802Garage]

Saves the disc like crazy!

[@housepumpinpc3983]

Mr Dremel(or equivalent) works wonders.

[@liammulvey5209]

You risk going to deep wit this method better to use a grinder and grind a flat spot on the race as you get close to going through you’ll see the race change color from the heat on the thin metal

[@802Garage]

You're trading one risk for another. Far less likely to go too far with a Dremel.

[@BruceLyeg]

Good tip with the air

[@802Garage]

Thank you!