Removing Rusted Bolts and Nuts THIS WORKS GREAT!

I never seen this method used anywhere! Easily remove rusted nuts and bolts avoiding the snapping and drilling aggravation. I also included an example of how to if you had a snapped off one. Working on rusty things - this is a must see video! Thank You for watching, Jeff

[@ronunger5212]

Thanks, Jeff, I also live in Wisconsin and I had rusted bolts in the exhaust manifold. We used an acetylene torch after soaking the bolts in PB blaster every few hours for 2 days to no avail. I came across your video and tried your heat and rapid cooling method. Because of it being the middle of winter, I used a spray bottle to cool the bolts and the popped loose on the 1st try. Thanks again

[@2jeffs1]

Your welcome Ron. Some things are hard to believe until trying/being there!

[@huffmac]

Thank you, 2jeffs1--I just succeeded in removing a nut off of a floor anchor in concrete. I used a wire brush to knock off the rust as I wanted to reuse the anchor. I tried to use a propane torch with no luck but then used a Map Pro torch and tried again. Heating the nut and then spraying it down with water from a garden hose was the trick as you demonstrated. I cannot thank you enough as I had to replace two 4x4 porch posts. Even though it is easy for you guys, I appreciate you taking the time and posting the video!

[@2jeffs1]

Thank you for your time to leave this feedback Chris. What an interesting use you used this idea on!

[@thorny7138]

This is the best video I've found on /this/ topic. Everywhere else they show the application with a pulled engine and not actually /on/ the car itself. Thank you for this video!

[@TralfazConstruction]

Any rusted nut, bolt, fastener, you name it, worthy of my attention will _always_ be inconveniently located. I recently indulged my curiosity in buying an induction heater and it more or less paid for itself within the first several uses. The utility of it was eye-opening.

[@Mike.Macmyazka]

I'm in Rochester, MN originally from the Twin Cities. I have a 60's Dune Buggy that became mine when my father passed away 10 years ago. It hasn't been driven since before I was born (so at least 33 years it has been in the garage untouched). He had plans to swap in a 1600cc (or possibly some other swap), do a 12v upgrade, and update the suspension and brakes. I originally wanted to follow through with his plans, but over the past couple years I've looked at other swaps (from Corvair to Subaru engines). I have to say I absolutely love watching your videos about the buggy you have. I wish my father were still alive, you remind me a little of him and I think if he had a chance to see these, he'd probably want to contact you and get to know you since you and him have a lot of common interests and DIY know how. Thank you and if you could, please show more about the Dune Buggy in future videos. Otherwise, if you wouldn't mind contacting me directly so I can get some more info about what you've done to yours, I would love to get a start on putting together all the parts to do my upgrades and an engine swap on my buggy.

[@2jeffs1]

+Mike Maciazka Hi Mike. Interesting write up you had here. Mine was all 1961 originally. In 96 I cut off the front and rear of the belly pan and installed 73 front and rear S - beetle ends & engine. Did do many other mod.s at that time too. Many original ideas. I do have plans to do a detailed video on the changes. Probably be a while tho. If yours has a Corvair engine in it them are nice when running good. There is one for sale like that near here and they want a lot of $ for it. Converting things over can be costly and time consuming. What I did is got it running and brakes working (1976?) and as time permitted or a deal came along (like the super beetle parts car & Subaru engine deal) then went forward with that. Well - just my 2cents worth - hope it helps!

[@gedgetips]

This is the first time I have seen anyone demonstrate this technique on KZbin. I have been doing this for decades and got the trick from my Dad who picked it up in the 30s. Many will consider using the heat, but they will not know about the rapid cooling in order to get the metals to separate from the different rates of cooling. I usually use a back and forth motion to work the nut loose, manually, and then add lubricant to minimize thread damage before removing it all of the way -- if this is a concern.

[@pauljordan3064]

Another great video Jeff. I learned this technique working at a sand and gravel plant several years back. We ended up against some pretty ugly fasteners in that environment but my boss was one of those guys who seemed to know every trick in the book (reminds me of somebody else) and I rarely saw this method fail. Later on I somehow came up with the idea of using a different method to quench. I take a can of compressed air (the kind you use to dust electronic equipment) and turn it upside down and spray the hot fastener with the super cold liquified gas. It only takes a couple of seconds of that spray to completely quench it. I don't know if it's more effective, but it's a little less messy and that flexible straw makes it a lot easier to get into tight spots.

[@2jeffs1]

+Paul Jordan Sounds like a nice idea you have there too! Actually I stock electronic parts chiller here for chasing intermittent issues on circuit board components. Never tried that but as always there will be a situation where that might be a good option. I'll have to keep that in mind! Thank you Paul, Jeff

[@ryansgirl2002]

Thank you! The heat/water did the trick for my hubby about 3am after I watched this video and told him- he was at his wits end lol God bless you!

[@2jeffs1]

Thank you for the nice comment!

[@swingmanic]

Great video Jeff..I used to watch a bloke (passed away now) do stuff like this and he made it look so easy!..He had an old lathe (circa 1920) driven with a flat belt and pulleys where he had a system of a car gearbox bolted to a hydraulic ram and he'd change gear to change ratios and the ram would take up the slack...He also had an old 2 cylinder Ruston diesel bolted onto a 300 amp DC generator that you had to crank anti-clockwise with decompressors open to start it up. (I used to crank it for him some days :)..He used to keep his welding rods in an old fridge box with a low wattage bulb lit to keep 'em dry..He could practically weld on his head..It's good to see tradesmen like you, you're a dying breed!

[@2jeffs1]

Really enjoyed reading your write up! Great description which makes it possible to pretty much picture what he had going on there. I pretty much live in the garage (actually did for a year and half when re-doing the house) and very much enjoy coming up with new ideas that aren't in the book. Thank you for stopping by, Jeff

[@roadkingjp]

After 40+ years in my own repair shop, in the rust belt, you showed me a trick that I will try. I always have heated the nut cherry red hot than removed it while glowing. I never would have tried your quick cool method! Thanks for the tip and I'll let you know how it works out for me. PS you seem like a very calm person!! Thank you.

[@2jeffs1]

Thank you Jim. Saved me from a lot of aggravation thru the years keeping the blood pressure where it should be! :>)

[@jaayse]

pb blaster + 2 nut method + propane torch worked well for my stubborn studs! Had no idea pb isn't flammable. Thank you 👍👍

[@MorrowSind]

I live in the rust belt too. Nice work! I enjoyed watching. So many car videos have perfect fasteners that never look like any of the vehicles that I work on.

[@sdsturges2464]

my friend showed me this same idea years ago he called it quench cooling . i have done this many times over the years and it always works . cheers

[@user-hd1qx2bd1r]

NOW THAT'S A VALUABLE VIDEO !!! Also excellent filming, presentation and pace! THANK YOU!!!

[@mlhebel]

As a saltwater outboard engine mechanic I discovered that the big impact is the best way to remove seized fasteners. If it won't remove the bolt/stud it will rip the head off instead of braking off flush in the casting. That way once the assembly is separated there is a stump to grab on with vice grips. Using PBlaster and torching the part directly that needs heating then allows the fastener to be removed. You want to expand the casting not the broken fastener. Of course be careful heating aluminum with acetylene oxygen as it melts without warning. I found patience, PBlaster and using a MAP gas torch (more BTU than propane. Less possible damage than Acty O2) will do the job with the best chance for success. Thanks for the video.

[@mrstanskaggs1]

I remember talking about this specifically in a physics class I had where an old mechanic was talking about nuts and bolts heated up this way, and why it works. Heating with like a fire is a form of rusting very rapidly (Oxidation). The surface rust burns away and the bolt and nut form a new rust layer. This in fact makes the bolt a tiny bit smaller and the nut a tiny bit larger as to the metal contact points in the threads. This tiny gap formed is why they come apart easier. We did an experiment with this in the class even to show why. Another idea to try with is that if you have a bolt and nut too tight, give it a tiny extra tight turn and then try to unscrew it as this can expand the threads just a fraction and allow the gap needed to remove. Same applies for adding penetrating oil as the tiny tightening action sucks the penetration into the gap too. Excellent video and good example of the removal process you have discovered!!

[@VincenzaV1]

Just tried it with a MAP torch and a spray bottle of water. Didn't need to get the nut red hot. Had to do this technique twice, and work the bolt forward/reverse/forward/reverse more and more till it came. Worked great! Would have 100% snapped that rusted bolt without it. Thank you!!!

[@2jeffs1]

Your welcome!

[@TheBarbarian777]

Gday mate! I'm working on Rust bucked Dodge ram and I'm super frustrated with all the rust. I'm gonna try your technique and I can see the physics behind what you are doing so I really think it will work. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge! It's awesome and appreciated heaps! Thanks a million!

[@binnsh]

This heat and quench works the bomb! Just removed a brake bleeder from my 11 year old salt belt Chevy, used a lot less heat than Jeff shows. THANK YOU JEFF!

[@2jeffs1]

+binnsh I was hoping to get some feedback on this one. Very nice to know this helped you out!

[@binnsh]

Thanks again, saved a trip to the store for a caliper!

[@super6954]

Hi Jeff glad to see another believer, some of The Yesterdays tractor forum guys are non's. i learned this from an old blacksmith back in the U.K when I worked there part time before I left school and for a short time after college. I was 14 then and now 41. so been doing it for lots of years now. I find if it doesn't work the first time heat and repeat for nuts/threads it can work the second go. I even do top links and other tractor hitch components this way. The welding nuts on studs I find works so so sometimes and can harden the bolt then your screwed trying to remove it if it don't work, as you cant drill it easy. also it's very important to get all the heat out first. It is possible to strip the threads as they heat seize when you start moving them. Thats why I never use the impact doing this .By hand with a wrench or ratchet and socket I know exactly whats happening before it's to late. A guy can go back and forth to clean and lubricate to get the rust out and free the tight spots as soon you feel them start binding up by the time the impact starts grunting it's all over if your not careful. Regards Robert

[@2jeffs1]

+super6954 Awesome write up you have here Robert! I thought this would make a good video where every time I try to explain this to someone I kinda get the deer in the headlights look. I think It's neat that you have done this too. All these kind of tips should be passed to the next generations. Where I turn the impact turned down there are times where I'll rock it or if it stops turning it wasn't heated enough to begin with. I have different impact guns. I have found the electric ones are not as controllable for this and the duel hammer more powerful air ones are not the ones of choice either. It is quite evident it's not your first day doing these things. Thank you for your comment and hope to catch you back here again, Jeff

[@super6954]

+2jeffs1 Thanks Jeff. I just wish I had time to do these video's like you guys. And the patience to deal with all the never done anything arm chair experts. I'm guessing that old blacksmiths gone now. But he had a son in the shop to that took over, so not all was lost there . My other mentor was a self taught back yard machinist, sadly I heard he died and not much of his knowledge has survived. He could build or fix pretty much anything. when i moved away he didn't have anybody else really interested sadly. I bet his machine tools got scrapped to. I'd of loved to ship them out of the U.K to Manitoba, to keep what he built up over the years alive that amount of stuffs hard to find here at good prices and condition to. There was a lot of time spent with him there learning and good memory's to. Hows the Backhoe, maybe we could see an update video one day, Thats how I got here subscribing to you, totally by accident finding that restoration. Regards Robert

[@2jeffs1]

+super6954 Had to tell ya I lost it on your arm chair deal. Real world v/s..... There was a very good machinist in this area. I had one do some work for me when I was just out of high school. I was told don't rush him so I patiently waited. When I picked up my things I was so impressed on the quality of his work! People like that I would of loved to hang around with watch and learn but never had that option. And just like you I heard he died not too long after. Oh - I do like your suggestion on a Case update. A few new things added, tires are getting worn but still looks & runs like new! Take care Robert & hope to catch ya again, Jeff

[@TrySomethingsOnce]

Hey Jeff, I learned that very trick myself over 40 years ago! It worked then and looks like it works still! There are those that say 'How do you know it wouldn't have come off without trying it first?' but learning to resist that temptation to find out marks a big difference in the 'experience curve'! But one other additional thing I did with exhaust bolts or similar was to clean up the threads and use new bolts of course but I always took the precaution of adding anti-seize compound to everything before putting it back together! I figured it would be doing the next mechanic that had to work on it a big favor, and there was always a good chance it would have been me! Upper exhaust manifold bolts on old Ford 390's as an example! Great videos!

[@2jeffs1]

Great write-up you had there! It was hard to believe there were some nay sayers. It is easy to tell how much experience they had in the real world by the comments. I got a kick out of some thought I re-used the studs where replacement wasn't included in the vid. But-why should that matter anyway. The vid was how to get the rusty stuff apart, not when/whether the studs need replacing! It was easy to tell it's not your first day on the planet! Thanks for stopping by, Jeff.

[@johnvgig]

Sometimes instead of anti-seize, depending on the application, I use low strength threadlocker (Loctite). This forms a seal between the threads that keeps out moisture/corrosion.

[@KelvinMeeks]

What an enjoyable video. nice pace, good valuable information. nice delivery. You,, Sir, should have your own PBS show.

[@christophersluss2129]

great info.. What I found was to spray it with PB after it's heated.. It sucks in and remove the rust.. Both ideas work really well... I know for a fact you helped some kid out that's working on his car for the first time that's how I figured this out.. Guys like you sharing information helps those young'uns know there ass from a hole in the ground thank you.. thank you for caring :-)

[@2jeffs1]

I would like to thank you for sharing your thoughts and stopping by, Jeff! ;>)

[@Perspective79]

I concur haha! I never comment on videos, but this video was good and the narrator sounds like a nice guy. It is what it is. Someone watching it obviously has encountered this situation in one way or another or was simply curious. But it never fails for the Douche Squad to come out and pretend that they are some old grey haired physicists and the ultimate authority on a subject. I can't even count how many times I was able to fix something because of this excellent resource called KZbin and the people nice enough to post videos on how to do it. When it comes to problems you have to keep an open mind, use your brain and realize there can be 20 different ways to fix it, use your brain and choose the one you think is best. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. Those are the breaks.

[@donaldtrump1645]

haha, thats me. trying to figure out how to get nuts off of my first vehicle, a 70s FORD pickup.

[@stephenr1999]

I do the same. Heat it up. Spray with PB or WD and blast it off with 1/2 inch impact. Oh and for working overhead, dont spray it first or you'll have flaming balls of PB dripping on you.

[@OCBircher]

Yeah, well, be extra careful not breathe the vaporized lead from the PB Blaster turning into a gaseous phase! The human body has no resistance to lead, and once absorbed there's really no treatment, and lead attacks the brain hardest. I think 2jejjs1 idea of using water quenching is wiser, safer, and 90% as effective...then spray with PB after it's cooled down to warm, say about 130 degrees.

[@fred21679]

all your backyard mechanic neighbors over here in Michigan have been doing this for years also! thanks for the post! ....and cheese!

[@francisworczak7512]

Thanks for making this video! Very helpful tip. I always have used a torch in the past, but never thought to quickly cool the stud first to prevent/minimize the possibility of shearing. Appreciate you sharing that knowledge.

[@wayneandersen2658]

Works great if you have access to an acetylene torch, impact air wrench, lift and other professional tools.

[@2jeffs1]

Might be a good idea to tell the guy who has those tools and ends up working on your car. Could save you some $$. When things break the repair cost usually goes up.

[@TKDZen1975]

You don't need an impact wrench or lift to do that numbnutz. Jackstands, floor jack, sockets & a breaker bar will work too just more physical work. You can purchase a cheap torch a hardware store. Great video ignore these morons.

[@earlroberts1315]

There is a very simple way to remove rust from anything that can be placed into a container with Water and Bicarbonate soda. Just use a 12 V Battery to complete the circuit and the rust will be removed via electrolysis Generation).

[@ahoorakia]

and how you gonna do that with the bolt on the car?!!!!!

[@Perspective79]

Why bother watching the freakin video if you don't own any tools or don't have any intentions to buy them? Its an instructional. Did you think he was going to show you a solution that involved Witch Craft or Magic instead of some type of tools? If you watched a youtube instructional on how to fly an F-16 would you complain about how the video is great and all but you'd have to buy a $24 million dollar aircraft, support crew, hanger etc? There are those that solutions focused and those that whine about how everything is going to fail or it can't be done.

[@johnhili8664]

I can vouch for this system I have used it for the last 40 years and it always works, now that I am retired I collect stationary engines and it works all the time when undoing stubborn bolts and nuts which is a normal thing on old engines!!!!

[@carlmarkley3817]

Outstanding tip, it saved me untold time over this weekend, Thank you!

[@2jeffs1]

+Carl Markley Good deal. Like to hear that and ..... Thank you for the comment Carl!

[@2OO_OK]

This is awesome. Thank you. I never thought to wire wheel off the rust but it makes perfect sense.

[@poikaa3]

My old boss showed me this way back in the 1970s.... We used to burn the stud out then tap the hole, new stud and nut! No torch? use a drill and/or chisel, maybe a die grinder. Glad to see it is still done this way....

[@CraigArndt]

A great tip Jeff, actually quite amazing it works. So many rusted bolts that give me trouble, thanks for sharing.

[@2jeffs1]

+Craig Arndt Your welcome Craig. Working on rusty stuff has never been the preferred work but when any aggravation can be avoided so easily - It's a good day! :>)

[@ttiwkram]

Nice demonstration of a well-known technique.

[@chipwright6193]

I'm already impressed! I always cranked them off while they were glowing orange. It never even crossed my mind to get them hot and then shock them with cold water. I imagine the temperature shock breaks the scaly rust loose from the metal.

[@2jeffs1]

+Chip Wright This sure takes the aggravation factor out of the rusty stuff. There are so many areas on the vehicles coming in lately that seem worse than ever showing up here to be serviced. When ever the streets flood it is guaranteed in the next 6 months you will be replacing some flange wheel bearings. This method works great on the bolts that hold them on! Thanks for your comment Chip, Jeff

[@chipwright6193]

It's interesting that you say that about the wheel bearings. I have been telling people for a long time that it may not seem to hurt anything to drive through flooded roads, but a little later on they'll be buying new wheel bearings. Thanks Jeff

[@HeartsXoXd]

You sir, are what we call a Master Craftsman.

[@joeclarke9782]

I'm a believer in the heat and quench

[@itsdavex2]

Looks like a Ford exhaust manifold stud, I hate those things. Some old guy showed me that trick about 30 years ago when I was working in a machine shop. Good stuff, I never forgot it and used it often.

[@joesc641]

This is the reason I don't do exhaust systems anymore. Rust everywhere, in your hair, eyes (even with glasses on), etc. Been doing auto repairs for over 40 years. I find it better to bring it to an exhaust shop where they do it all day and its not a big deal to them.

[@flagmichael]

I'm with you. I do most of my own auto work but I leave A/C refrigerant systems, automatic transmissions, and exhaust to professionals. In the first two I don't know what I am doing; in exhaust systems the pros can do it with a tenth of the aggravation and low prices.

[@iroulis]

Thanks. Used this method, with a propane torch, to get 2 out of 3 studs out of the exhaust manifold with a 3/8" cordless impact and a stud remover. I was impatient with one and used the 1/2" cordless and snapped it inside. Going to have to drill and use a bolt extractor since I don't have a welder, but I will heat it up also.

[@Sean-tf1qn]

well done sir im not sure folks caught that you did mention turning the torque down on the impact wrench.

[@fernandoflorio3243]

thank you Jeff. i did it, no more broken bolts. oh! good video too

[@blakewadington4390]

those things are all common practice but very good examples

[@supersonictoast2822]

i didnt think thermal expansion worked like that thanks bud!

[@2jeffs1]

+KSI SubSonic Your welcome KSI !

[@1pcfred]

+SuperSonic Toast when you glow the hardware up you actually burn the rust out. So it is a bit more than just thermal expansion going on here.

[@markc3392]

A bit of candle wax painted over the backside of the heated exhaust flange will wick between the stud and flange threads like solder - I've pulled frozen studs from a 100 year old tractor using both the cold water and candle wax trick.

[@ParagliderCollapse]

Make a video please.

[@markc3392]

no need for a video - after heating the area, wait until the orange glow just disappears and use a candle to flow wax around the stud. Just like solder in a copper plumbing joint, it will wick deep into the threads to lube them for extraction. It's a process that's been used by blacksmiths for two hundred years...

[@yeagermcbipper9008]

The wax does nothing. The heat is doing all the work. Its an old wives tale that the wax 'lubricates' the metal.

[@arbit3r]

@@yeagermcbipper9008 I always wondered about that. I've seen videos of people doing it and in my opinion the wax vaporises before it can even reach the threads.

[@jilo860]

for times you cant use heat, try acetone and atf mixed 50/50. itll blow your mind how well it works! saved me duiring years of rust resto in ct

[@DavidSmith-mk7qo]

We don't usually see them that bad in the south. Unless it was a northern car or on the coast. Neat tricks. Great info.

[@internetstress]

I HOPE YOU ARE A MILLIONAIRE.

[@ballhawk387]

I've found it to work with a MAPP gas plumbing torch, little spray bottle with cold water, PB Blaster, and a good breaker bar with extensions and angled adapters for ridiculously located bolts. Sometimes I use my leg to push the breaker bar for more leverage, but being mindful not to put too much pressure so as to break the an extension!

[@NewRiverRepair]

Fabulous great information. I've tried most methods of rusty fastener extraction but this quench method. Luckily, I was introduced to Kroil and it saved me from most of the broken pieces. Thank you sir

[@2jeffs1]

+NewRiverRepair Your welcome. This trick gets used quite frequently here, almost daily sometimes. I was hoping this would help out the gear heads that follow my channel. Rusty stuff can be so aggravating. To have one step up on it is a huge plus!

[@tailwheelflier]

Love it, that yankee accent is great!!

[@colinsteam]

Very interesting...I have used heat before but never thought to quench. Must be the expansion on heating and quick contraction on cooling that breaks the bond. Nice job on the digger.

[@2jeffs1]

That trick gets used a lot here on so many different components. Some vehicles that arrive here are quite rusty, it's nice when things can come apart without busting stuff off which keeps the repair costs at bay for the customers. Not a single bolt snapped off either when doing the digger. What a time saver. Thanks for stopping by Colin, Jeff.

[@orionred2489]

What up, my digger?

[@kho24726]

For my own Ford Ranger, I found the best way for this home mechanic (from trial and mostly error) to remove the exhaust system, is to run the engine and get everything good and hot, then spray a good lubricant liberally all over the threads, and it removes easily when it is hot. It is damn near impossible to remove when cold.

[@transam8607]

I learned not to take apart some stuff on a car in the winter enless they are heated up. It took me years and plenty of broken bolts to learn.

[@damontellegen3569]

This is really great the rapid heating and cooling thanks

[@damnationdefied777]

so cool to hear dan aykroyd doing your narrations

[@craigcochran5444]

This dude's voice is terrific.

[@dylanwebber763]

this man is a scientist

[@KellyBurnham]

Thanks for posting. I really appreciate it. I have to fix an exhaust manifold leak on a 90 Ford 460 and I've been putting off for fear of breaking those darn studs off. I'm going to use this for sure.

[@cydrums3411]

I lived in Madison for a few and loved it! Great tip and video.👍

[@ryanmacewen511]

Great video! Thanks for sharing. I'm always amazed by the people who take the time to make these videos. Very Thankful! The last thing I want to do when I'm turning wrenches, is worry about camera and lighting! lol I can barely focus myself!

[@BarronBros1822]

Heat red hot then cool. Nice touch. Anyway im gonna try heating red hot then pressing a candle onto it to cool. Heard it will pull wax into the stuck thread.

[@rjserra5535]

Nice, simple and effective is always the best.

[@eddieroman3629]

nicely done you make it look so easy. the ending was awesome.

[@Farmer2492]

fantastic video being a farmer i try every way possible myself thumbs up

[@barrybarry5305]

I’m from New England , so no room to talk, but man you have an accent. A really cool accent

[@frankl1955]

I have a little Oxygen / Map gas torch from home depot. I’ve been using the same type torch since the 80s when it was Solid Oxygen. It’s a small flame but very hot and very precise. I only heat the nut and take them off while still red hot and it never failed me in +30 years. I’ve found this torch very useful when dealing with brake bleeders, I heat around the back of the cylinder where the bleeder threads in. The flame it so small and hot I have consistently removed the bleeders without heating the cylinder up too much as to damage rubber parts inside. Heating only the female part of the thread allows it to expand but you have to break it loose while still hot.

[@aeridyne]

Hey Frank, anywhere you can still find those? Or something that is basically the same thing? I was looking today and I'd like a torch better than just propane, which is pretty bad, but I don't have the cash for a big oxy/act one, that one you mentioned sounds really cool.

[@Big_John_C]

Frank L Rusty bleeder screws are easier to remove if you place a snug fitting drill bit into it before wrenching on it, keeps them from twisting off so easily.

[@chuckychuck]

At ace hardware, home depot or your local hardware store.

[@brianatherton4916]

Frank L I have been removing bleeders like that for years and havnt broke one since I was 16 yrs old. a long time ago

[@richardsmart2255]

Nice. Another excellent use for my everlast tig welder. I never really thought to use it to extract broken bolts.

[@georgebuck2269]

As a welder/fabricator I was always called upon to remove broken bolts as I was the only one allowed to use the oxy/acetelyne torch. We would fab a washer and plug weld it the broken off bolt or stud and then weld a nut on top of the washer. Get out your ratchet and your done.

[@peterjensen7533]

Excellent tutorial, thank you!

[@2jeffs1]

Your welcome Pete, Jeff.

[@akcd907]

Thanks for the idea of the heat! I had to 2 exhaust nuts that wouldn't move... after your heat idea they came right off with just a 1/2" drive :-) Many THANKS!!!

[@2jeffs1]

+Duane Sheehan Your welcome Duane. This trick seems too good to be true until tried. Rusty things can be so frustrating. To eliminate that factor is a good thing!

[@dalestump439]

Heat will usually persuade stuck bolts studs and nuts to give up. I've always used just heat with about a 99% success rate. The only thing I would mention with using water is it can change the characteristics of some metals, cast iron for an example and hardened bolts. Worth considering when you pick up the water to cool it.

[@me2onthenet]

I Always use heat when a bolt looks like it might/could break. I've even used a mapp gas torch when I don't feel like digging out my oxy-acetylene torch, but I turn them out red hot and quench the socket afterwords. The worst rusted bolts screw off like they're lose.

[@clintonandrews1538]

I am *delighted* to see that you are wearing 'eyes' and gloves. Good Man!

[@Bmore2Htown]

Yeah I attempted a project like this earlier but stopped to go buy "eyes" and glove

[@flagmichael]

I have had excellent results getting nuts loose by clamping vise grips on as tightly as possible, spraying the exposed end with penetrant oil, and repeating on as many sides of the nut as I can reach. The pressure forces the threads together and opens up gaps opposite that direction. It has never failed me.

[@2jeffs1]

Interesting. I can see where there will be a time where this would be a great option!

[@wingelec]

Years ago, I had rusted hinges on a few of my work trucks. I tried all kinds of penetrants.....nothing good came of it. Then an older fella (76yrs) told me make your own solution 50parts Acetone to 50parts ATF. It works GREAT!!!!!! Hands down.....GREAT!!!!!! It doesn't damage automotive paint, but it really works........

[@hugeslacker]

So basically what you're doing is hardening the steel. You're strengthening it, and that's why they aren't breaking. That's a good idea I never thought of that. Ive got a 99 jeep so I've been dealing with plenty do rusted bolts. I found that atf and acetone mixed seems to work well. Sometimes if I can I saturate them numerous times a day for a week.

[@paulchilders9969]

Copy/paste of my reply to another confused comment above. "That's not what is going on here. This is differential heating and cooling. When you heat it up the metal expands, but since the bolt has a nut on it, it can only expand along its length in that spot. Then when you rapidly cool it down, it shrinks back down and it leaves a gap between the threads. The larger the bolt diameter, the greater the gap."

[@camgere]

I'm pretty sure I remember my 8th grade shop teacher going on about heating and quenching to harden metal and heating and slowing cooling down to temper it. This seems kind of scary on parts that you are going to re-use.

[@paulchilders9969]

De Factio It is precisely because they are both expanding and contracting that a gap is formed. During expansion the force of the nut and bolt expanding directly oppose each other, thus only allowing the bolt to expand longitudinally. Then when they contract there is no opposing force, allowing a small gap to be formed, because that metal has to go somewhere. There is even a rule of measurement for this effect. If memory serves me correctly, it is 1 thousandth of an inch per inch of diameter on the bolt. So you can see it is a small gap, but a gap none the less.

[@paulchilders9969]

De Factio Yes there is lol. Do you think I just pulled that rule of thumb measurement out of thin air or what?

[@paulchilders9969]

Qualified to engineer what? An agricultural engineer? How much practical experience do you have actually working as an engineer? Have you ever worked in the field? Probably not, because you don't know shit.

[@ox6942]

Good to see somebody else having to struggle with rusty shit too. Misery loves company, I have to mess with shit like this all the time. You are not alone. from upstate NY One thing I sometimes do is run them out until they start hanging, then get a little panther piss on it and run it back in then out then in then out again. Sometimes this gets them over the "hump" so they don't snap off.

[@raymondpinder3692]

Thanks for sharing such a useful video

[@simonbroddle754]

An old blacksmith showed me this many years ago when I was struggling with a series of studs on a tractor axle. I sheered off several despite being red hot. Cooling them quickly made all the difference. Many thanks for posting, it's a really great tip.

[@simonbroddle754]

If they remain red hot they will shear. However, if cooled quickly, and cooled so they are absolutely cold then they will undo easily. Often with fingers, I think this is partly due to the explosive air around the stud as it cools loosening rust and other debris. Also rapid shrinking and expansion. It also works on bearing shells that are sweated onto a shaft. They will drop off!

[@mrstanskaggs1]

I believe when you look at what heating actually is for metal.. (rusting very quickly), the surface rust is removed and another ultra-thin layer of metal is turned to rust. This makes the bolt actually a little smaller and the nut is a little larger in other words. That causes it to work.

[@aeridyne]

I believe that is correct in essence. I have cut into nuts before and the thread inside along with the nut were rusty, high enough heat somehow vaporizes that small surface it seems like. Now if I only had a real torch... I'm always trying to do it with propane which doesn't work so well.

[@DR-zl2ct]

Heating metal is actually not "rusting very quickly"

[@BarronBros1822]

aeridyne Every try map gas on a small propane torch? I never had i just wondered if it was much better?

[@jerrychan1471]

Great tips, thanks for sharing! Any suggestions for removing rusted bolts from auto suspension parts like stabilizer links where a rubber sleeve on the bolt and might be damaged by heat?

[@2jeffs1]

Keeping the rubber soaked the entire time helps but - no not a good answer for that. Usually we just end up cutting them off & replacing with one of those kits where that thru bolt can get quite thin from rust.

[@bandogbone3265]

One of the two bolts holding up the side stand on my old motorcycle was so tight, I ended up rounding off the hex head, even after heating with a propane torch, quenching with water, and using a budget pneumatic impact wrench. I was smart enough to quit at this point, took it to my new pro mechanic, and he got it loose with the same technique, though his torch and impact driver were much better than mine. He hammered a one-size-down impact socket onto the rounded head, so there was no need to engage any advanced bolt extraction tools and techniques. I could tell he used big heat and quick quenching because the surface of the alloy engine block in that area flaked off a little. I didn't mind, though, because the desired result was obtained with little cost and without worse damage. I agree with other comments that pro level tools are sometimes necessary, and I relate my modest success story to advise other DIY home tinkerers that part of the algorithm is to know when you are beat and call on the pros for help. 2jeffs1 - Excellent presentation style -- good humored, fast-paced, with just enough quiet music, dogs, and nature to add a welcome personal touch without being a time-wasting distraction. Your technique of not trying to speak while working, then overdubbing the explanation later is perfect, much clearer than others who try to do it all at once. Much thanks for your extra effort and great info!

[@SilentOneCorajuda13]

Excellent video. I don't have a torch. But I will get some MAPP gas to tackle my broken battery bolt. Thank you.

[@sendit1158]

Excellent vid

[@eijonasson]

fine flick...thank you. plain and simple just how I like it. plenty of info to make this wee chore easy. sincerely grateful. see you again.

[@daleferdinand]

My buddy Brad Smith would love this...RIP my friend.

[@geo86able]

Very clever Sir! Good job.

[@2jeffs1]

Thanks George. When dealing with rusty stuff it's great having techniques to make things go smoothly.

[@joescheller6680]

great info for us that live 100 miles from civilization we don't just run to the parts store down the block for hardware and new stuff

[@simulatorman]

Thank you so much for this... I got a IH case 3444 backhoe that needs attention and I will watch that build on the tractor!

[@thercrv8202]

Wayne Anderson hit it right on, it's easy when you have all that room, room thats not very common in the majority of situations, such as a temp sensor in an exhaust pipe stuck up behind the engine and accessed in a maybe 12 sq inch space from a wheel well where all you can use is a wrench.

[@se7ensnakes]

Wow you did good. I am challenge by an allen CV bolt at the moment.

[@Gunns57]

Wow Its not every day I actually learn something I could have used before and most likely in the future. Thanks...

[@sn0m0ns]

That weld trick was amazing man, I would have been drilling that stud for hours! giggle

[@2jeffs1]

+sn0m0ns Ya can't be doing that! That technique works great and gets used here quite often in the salt belt. ;>)

[@mpugliano]

Just a wonderful video your a natural for voice over. You should audition for disney movies.

[@t.s.racing]

This video is a few years old and some comments have stated they will buy a Harbor Freight Oxy-acetylene set to do this repair. I'm NOT bashing H-F, as I use a lot of their tools in my race shop. That being said, most welding companies supplying gassses will no longer fill the Chinese bottles, so your oxy-aceltylene set will be worthless if you can't fill the bottles, so check first before you buy, GOD BLESS.

[@dmitripetrov5536]

Will this method work for larger rusted bolts like torsion bar keys bolts?

[@atsernov]

hmmm, I may have to try this. I've used oxy, and I've extracted studs with a welder... quenching really rusty stuff hadn't come to mind but kind of makes sense. You're shocking and breaking up the rust by both extreme heating and rapid cooling. But, unlike leaving it red hot, you return the metal back to full strength before beating it with the impact.

[@grampabadger]

Having heated and quenched the bolt, would it not become rather brittle without some annealing process afterwards?

[@user-du7sj1cp6b]

Much better is using a Electric INDUCTION HEATER FOR BOLTS REMOVAL. Much faster and easier. No flame, no fire, no protection needed.

[@MissouriJones]

Thanks for this post because I didn’t even know something like this exist. I have a 1997 F-150 with a leaking manifold gasket and I couldn’t figure out how to get those rust bolts loose. I think this may just fix the problem.

[@mcqueenfanman]

It works very well on brake bleeders. Also heating the fastener & touching a crayon to it helps. The wax seeps down into the threads.

[@frankeodie]

only way to go wax candle crayon ect the heat sucks it in like soldering copper pipe

[@brianatherton4916]

Been useing this method since I was a kid. Be carfull around castiron and dont put impact on it till I have it loosened up. An old fire extinguisher charged with water and air pressure works well.

[@stevejennings1628]

Really great, thought I'd nver get it undone. Was able to wind it off by hand.. When cold.

[@maxinpains6937]

Yup, I remember first time I have to take off exhaust manifold bolts and studs. I was excited to use torch to first time back then. ...

[@duramaxmak]

man where have you been love your videos

[@2jeffs1]

+Milton Fludgecow Thanks!!! The shop has been quite busy here or I'd probably have a few more posted.