Repair and Reinstall the Tension Unit on a Singer Model 237. Making a new Tension Pin.

[@micheleantonello3187]

Hello again, and wow! Thank you for a wonderful tutorial; my tension releasing pin is also too short. As well, the bar on my indicator flange is cracked and bows when pressure is applied, so I suspect someone thought that by reducing the length of the pin they could reduce the pressure on the flange. I had been very puzzled at the erratic performance of my tension after many tries to zero out. I finally took the whole assembly out and sat it on my lap while viewing your video, and watched what happened when I tightened and loosened it. It would be in a perfect state of looseness with the nut loosened off, and tightened satisfactorily as the nut was turned, but when backing off the nut the tension remained very tight, and then it would suddenly 'pop' and the assembly would loosen up. I guess I will have to get a new indicator flange, or possibly do the baking soda/super glue trick you showed on another video. Ditto on manufacturing a new pin. Thanks again!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

I glad you narrowed down the cause. Try to fix it if you have time. Some have glued a piece of paper as a guide and then fashioned a slice of metal, like a Bobbi pin piece to glue into the opening. In the end you can buy a new generic unit if needed to return the machine to service: www.sewingpartsonline.com/tension-complete-singer-422403-455.aspx

[@micheleantonello3187]

@@andytubesewing1953 I found an old hair barrette with a metal comb and snipped a leg off that; it matched perfectly with the size of that middle arm on the indicator flange. I glued that on (the back/machine side) with crazy glue (after cleaning with alcohol) and let it dry 24 hours. The metal bit spans from one side of the rim to the other, so it is braced. Seems to work well! I worried about the tension being out of alignment with that bit of extra girth, but, as the tension releasing pin was on the short side it didn't cause issues. Thanks to the suggestion on here about this hack. Cheers!

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@micheleantonello3187 Nicely done! That was very creative. I'm glad that is all it took and the pin was OK. Lucky Girl. Back to sewing. Thanks for explaing the fix. Pinning this thread to the top.

[@cynthiavines8426]

I realize this video is 5 years old, but it was what I needed to fix a friends machine. The tension was broken and I was able to replace it with one I got online. This video was perfect and had information not found elsewhere. Thank you for taking the time to record this classic repair.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Comments like yours are a justification of the time and effort I spent on videos like this. I'm so happy that you found the video and thank you for helping your friend keep that lovely machine in service. It's like a win-win-win for all three of us

[@maryfluke9312]

Thank you for this excellent video. My Fashion Mate 237 that I've had since I was 12 years old had the exact part failure that you describe (broken bar on the Tension Indicator). I have been living with it like that for many years, tried to get it repaired but the person that I took it to did not have Andy's expertise and just poured lubricant everywhere with no benefit. After watching this video and taking the tension assembly apart I was able to see the problem. I ordered the Tension Indicator from the recommended source and I've put it all back together now. I did have to make one small tweak in that the new tension indicator has a slightly smaller diameter space on the side facing the machine, maybe 1 to 1.5 mm smaller. This caused the czech (check?) spring to catch a little bit and not snap back into place. After looking at it I decided to try bending the end of the czech spring just a tiny bit so it didn't stick out quite as far. That did the trick and now I'm back to sewing properly again after years of crazy high tension. Thank you, Andy!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hey, you're a natural at this repair stuff. Good adjustments or "work arounds" you made there. Now you know about that tension assembly and can spend your time sewing again. Thanks for the comment and take care.

[@maryfluke9312]

@@andytubesewing1953 Bad news! The Tension indicator that I installed had a little flaw in the bar. I saw it when I installed it but hoped for the best. It failed today but at least the ends of the bar are still attached (unlike the old one that disintegrated). I've contacted Sewing Parts On Line for another replacement but I wonder if you have any suggestions regarding a way to augment the defective bar so that it will still work.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@maryfluke9312 I've had a few viewers tell me that they have reinforced the little strip with wood or metal or glue and other things. The problem is it adds thickness and that can affect the lift of the presser foot and the movement of the tension release pin. Some said they filed down the tension release pin to compensate. The most successful results seem to be people who glued one or two thin layers of very fine fabric to the back of that center bar, which seem to reinforce it to prevent cracking but didn't add enough thickness to affect the tension working properly

[@maryfluke9312]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@maryfluke9312 OK good luck.

[@lilgreenelf42]

I had recently bought a new tension assembly for my sewing machine and THOUGHT I had put it all back together correctly. About two minor sewing projects later, I started having looped and wadded threads on the tension thread. I took it all apart and reassembled it again. No luck. I did it again....and again....and again....and again..... After a frustrating afternoon and evening of going back and forth and vowing to pitch my machine out the door, I found this video that saved my life. LOL My machine is a Singer 239, but the assembly is basically the same. After following along with this video and doing the steps with you, as you did them, I could see where I had been messing up and I finally got my tension assembled and in perfect working order. Your attention to detail is exactly what I needed. Thanks so much!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

I have felt that pain! Tension can be so frustrating. With every model I restore I make a big deal about doing the tension, hoping someone like you will be helped if they find the video. I so happy you found it! Thanks for not kicking that machine to the curb, hehe. It's a good machine and now you can just enjoy sewing and crafting. You get the whole tension thing now so no worries. It was especially kind of you to take time and comment on the video. Made my evening!✨

[@joycema1014]

I can't tell you how often you have saved me from throwing up my hands and not fix a machine. I love working on old Singers, clean them, replace parts and have a 50-70 year old machine work better than most any new machine. I buy old machines and work on them as a hobby, It is so satisfying to get them running, I could never do it without your videos. I'm working on a Singer FM 237 & 403A now. The guy I bought the FM 237 took it apart and really messed up the bobbin case/holder and the tension assy. He took the machine apart and couldn't figure how to put it together again to sew (he threw all the parts in a bag). I've cleaned and now putting together the 237 tension assy. , this video was heaven sent. Thank you so much Andy, I love your detail in the videos.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for the kind comment 🙏 and thanks for saving those beautiful machines. Good Luck.

[@rhondamercado7527]

Hey Andy, I was working on my 237 today and had to refer back to this great video. At 63 years old you kinda forget stuff….lol. I think I got it right. Nice hearing your voice. Take care.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for visiting, Rhonda. Thanks for keeping the machine in service. Take care.

[@andreguay56]

Thank you very much, you are very good and patient at explaining this mechanism. From Des Moines, Iowa, USA.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for taking the time to comment, Andre. I appreciate you watching my channel. Take care.

[@didgeheubner4961]

What an amazing video instruction. I finally found the problem with my tension. It was that little ribbed plastic flange, split exactly as you described and illustrated. It's now mended and all put back together saving me an expensive machine service/repair. Anyone wanting to fix their machine, mine is a Singer 237, a real dynamite little beast, would do well to watch Andy's instructions. Patient, and so well filmed. Thank you for sharing your wealth of experience.

[@andytubesewing1953]

So glad you found my video helpful. It was a real puzzle for me to find a split like that the first time. I do mostly older models with metal tension parts so had never encountered that problem. I agree that model 237 is an amazing machine, and I am still in awe of the traveling hook & ZZ Slide parts. For viewers interested in Model 237 I have more videos of it in a playlist here: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Happy sewing, Didge, and thanks for the nice comment. Take care.

[@Lapeerphoto]

I usually adjust it until it works and feels right. Now I know when the spring it supposed to rest on the stop. Good explanation. Thanks Andy!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hi, David. Adjusting to touch is the best way to work on your machine, including tension! When it feels right, it is right. I just get technical for people who are still learning their "touch" so to speak. In my career, if I learned "what" was supposed to happen, I could usually help make it happen. It was weird when I first noticed the spring resting on the stop as the needle when in. I thought the stop/rest was there just to keep the spring from unwinding. I emailed a friend in Canada and he sent me a guide that explained "Stroke" & "Tension" of the check spring. Brilliant! Who were this people who invented sewing machines anyway? They have my undying respect and awe I think. Anyway, thanks for watching my videos and taking the time to comment. Take Care.

[@chelseacstx3461]

Oh man I haven't seen one of those "tension meters" in many years. What a blast from the past. Thank you so much for these videos. I have a Singer Merritt 4530 and the tension has been giving me fits. I bought a replacement assembly on Amazon and it's been a nightmare as well. The little pin that sticks out of the rod in the back that raising and lowering the pressure foot adjusts was really long, it stuck out of the back a good 3/4 inch so I had to lop it off and then file it down. This video (and your others) have been so much help. Hopefully we're headed in the right direction now.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm glad you found the video. I've done a few "modifications" to tension units over the years myself. The first time I cut the new pin too short, of course. That's when I learned to make my own with a nail. Thanks for saving your machine to keep it in service, ⭐ and thank you for watching my channel.

[@danellet8229]

Thank you SO much! This was exactly what I was looking for to fix my machine myself. And I especially appreciate the details and time spent on each individual part explanations, extremely helpful and educational! It’s a fashion mate 368 so very old but still in great condition thankfully, and now I am able to actually use it and I’m so happy!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Your comment made my day.🙏 Thank you for keeping the nice machine in service, Danelle. I'm happy my video was helpful. Happy sewing.

[@KarvonensProClean]

This video has helped me so much tonight. Thank you

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm very happy to hear that. Thanks!

[@ditaylor770]

Wonderfully clear. Thank you for your effort and time.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Very nice of you to comment. Thanks

[@C_U_R_I_E_L]

Omg mister i love you!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

It's nice to be loved. Thank you 🙏

[@Pilot_RoBB]

Thanks a lot for this video , it was very useful. My mom had a lot of issues with this tension knob, but she do not speak English, so she was struggling; then I help her with the translation, and finally she solved the problem. Again, thanks for your patience to explain, Regards from Panamá, Central America.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm glad you helped her, Rob. Please thank her for not giving up on her machine and keeping it in service. It's nice that you commented.

[@kolohejoe]

Just completed cleaning and lubricating Hoshi, which is Japanese for star. Hoshi is a 68' U77 made in Japan. Same as a 237 Fashionmate. My first machine ever. During lubrication noticed a failure at the foot tension release to the tensioner. The link was flat out missing. During disassembly of the tension unit I realized the same plastic cross member as Stella was broken. Two small pieces fell out as I separated the parts. The two small bits that comprise the cross member. I will attempt a Gorilla glue repair with possibly a cut down tooth-pick as re-enforcement spanning all the way to the outer hub of the dial. ....There tucked inside the threaded metal part was the intact tension release pin. So While I await the replacement dial, I will attempt a temporary repair and then keep it as a backup. Andy, your videos are simply priceless!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Congratulations on your working with Hoshi! I have repaired that cross-member and it's very tricky. When you look at the "slot" in the tension stud you see have narrow the clearance for the cross-member is. After gluing and reinforcement it was too bulky to slide properly back and forth in the "slot", so I had to file and sand all around the cross-member to get it to fit and work properly. Tedious to say the least. You are doing so well with your 1st restoration and I know it's only the beginning for you. Thank you, Joe

[@dashap.5614]

Hello, Andy, I have a Singer Merritt 8834. After years of using the machine the upper thread tension stopped working properly. I bought the whole upper thread tension unit, disassembled the old one, and found out from your videos that some parts were bent or broken. I took the new unit and wanted to disassemble and then to install it. The problem with this new unit was that I couldn't remove the cap with numbers, and I decided to turn the thread take up spring loop, which was to the right, down at the backside of the unit. Then I installed the unit on the machine and bent the thread take up spring loop up and rested it on the thread guard stop. The unit seems to work properly, although I don't know if I bent the spring out of shape somewhat when I placed the loop down. Thank you for this great video, without it I wouldn't have been able to install the unit the right way.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Happy you were able to replace your tension assembly. Thank you for saving your machine and keeping it in service.🙏 I'm pleased that my video helped you with that. Thanks for sharing the good news.

[@sewinglifeisfun]

Thank you so much,I love how informative you are. I also had a short pin and did the nail trick, it worked great thank you again. 😁

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm glad you found the video. Thanks for keeping your machine in service, 🙏and happy sewing.

[@diannagabay9110]

This video was wonderful. It helped me repair the missing broken tension unit on three machine. Since i am aware of fixing plastic I was able to cut and size the missing cross bar and attaching new bars.

[@diannagabay9110]

I tried to attach a photo of one of the tension bar I fixed. Sorry that I couldn't post the image. Your videos are wonderful. Thank you so much.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm glad the video was helpful. Oh, too sad about the picture. I know my viewers would have loved to see how you were able to repair the crossbar. Maybe someday you could just post a little video on your own channel and show us a link to it. Thanks you for rescuing those machines. Take care.

[@andytubesewing1953]

nicely done!

[@6Murphy]

Andy I watched your video tonight as I knew I didn’t have my tension disc on correctly after a previous clean. Great video very informative. I then cleaned all the old congealed oil from the machine with full strength rubbing alcohol taking out the flange pin all the parts relating to the bobbin the wheel for starting and now after several hours and a new oiling I have it all back together. I will try it out tomorrow and see if it’s now running like new. My machine in enclosed in a lift up flap out table.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Congratulations on your hard work. It's rewarding though, isn't it? It's such a nice machine it is worth the effort. It's probably the cleanest it's been since leaving the factory. I'm happy if my videos helped you save that machine. Happy sewing and good luck.

[@anonymous-zn5em]

I am really loving your videos. I am also rehabilitating an old Singer 237. I love her but haven't given her a name yet. Thank you.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm glad you found the videos. Thanks for fixing up that wonderful machine. Still fascinated with that traveling hook system! Take Care.

[@sebastiangomez5140]

Excellent explanation many thanks

[@andytubesewing1953]

very welcome and I'm glad you found the video. Happy sewing.

[@lilboucher1480]

Hello Andy I truly enjoyed this video. I am in the process of adjusting the tension on an old singer and this is exactly what I needed to know. Much appreciate this tutorial. Hope to see more, like I need to know how to replace old singer cord and what modern electrical cord would be appropriate to use. I am very handy, Andy, with this stuff so any assistance would be appreciated. Many, many thanks, Lil :)

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hey, Lil, any chance you know the make/model number of your machine?

[@MR-ct8jl]

Always learning from the only person I feel in his words he really enjoys to explain every detail, I admire that! Merry Christmas and Happy New year, always!

[@andytubesewing1953]

You know me well now, Mr. Miguel. Wish the best year ever for you in 2019 and Feliz Navidad.

[@safronsue]

Very useful to me now, thanks. The clarity seems improved on this more recent video. Clear as a bell. Thanks Andy.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for watching, Susan. I appreciate your comments.

[@garymitchell963]

Thanks for this great detailed video, cheers mate your a marriage saver :)

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm glad you found the video. Yes, when they are happy we are happy, right? 😉

[@CurseTheDarkness]

Had the same problem - broken flange crossbar and broken cog. The 237 is definitely not all metal. Thanks for the video.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome. A common problem. Did you see the comment from Viggo? He made his own fix: www.dropbox.com/s/zuf10p33ftbspva/Tensioner%20repair%20Singer%20237-2.jpg?dl=0 Thanks for watching.

[@CurseTheDarkness]

I actually had another 237 for spare parts that I was able to get another tension indicator from. Unfortunately both machines had cracked gears! I saw your Super Glue fix, but on a hunch I took the tension assembly off a Singer 201 I also had for parts. The tension stud from the 201 had a metal gear and I was able to swap it out directly for the 237 stud. I did use the 237 release pin though. I took a photo of the 201 stud next to the 237 for reference and would love to send it to you if you tell me how.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@CurseTheDarkness Great comment! It is not always easy to find a substitute part that works, even with slight modification. My KZbin Channel email is [e-mail] Thank You.

[@augustcanyon3438]

Wonderful and extremely informative for me.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks very much for such a nice comment 🙏

[@RitaM92392]

Great job in showing details in the tension. Thank you Andy!

[@andytubesewing1953]

You are welcome, Rita. Tension, tension, tension... my viewers must be getting tired of me posting tension videos, haha, but I get emails every week about tension problems. Have a wonderful new year and thanks for commenting.

[@paolaspigarelli1960]

Thanks very much Andy, your video is very clear and very useful for me. It helped me repair the missing broken tension unit on a Singer 237 :-)

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm happy you found my video. Thank you for repairing your machine to keep it sewing.

[@paolaspigarelli1960]

@@andytubesewing1953 Dear Andy, can you give us some suggestions how to fix/register the tension unit on a Singer Starlet 495?

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@paolaspigarelli1960 Please see this video for the Genie 353. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aavdcpeMqMRridmIhe tension unit should be the same as your 495 (or very close to it) Thanks again for watching my channel and good luck.

[@connieworcester55]

ANDY TUBE.!! ❤👍... I am on my forth "237" .. three of them in tables, and one in a plastic base. all have the feed dog drop knob.. All in great shape.. On my latest one, I found a broken "sprocket/gear" on the stud. It was broken in half.. I had to order one.. I am not sure if anyone sells just the plastic part..? Thanks again Andy.. 🙏 You are very thorough and detailed, Great teacher..!

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@connieworcester55 wow like a house on fire you're burning through those machines incredible thanks for saving them I used to be able to buy the aluminum tension post with the built on gearing then I used to be able to buy just the plastic gear after that I couldn't find either I couldn't find any kind of a new tension post I took to using super glue on the broken plastic ones just gluing piece by piece back onto the metal stud it actually worked pretty good if you found replacement studs I don't know if they're new or used but good for you it's a pretty cool machine really very unique thanks for sharing the progress

[@connieworcester55]

@@andytubesewing1953 It is a unique machine. makes a great stitch..I bought my first 237 because of your video.. 😃... I won't know yet if the new stud is good, or will actually fit? , it is suppose to but? ya never know,, should be here in about a week.. I think I found it on amazon.? i've been ordering other things online from other sellers,, ebay,, central Michigan sewing parts,, sewing machine parts online, etc.. I might have to super glue the old one together.. Thanks, I didn't even think of that. I wish they stayed with the aluminum ones..

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@connieworcester55 For sure hang on to the old pieces just in case. 😊

[@janietompkins372]

Thank you so much for your videos. I watched a video a couple of years ago, bought parts and repaired my bobbin winder. I need to know how do you take apart and reassemble the tension assembly for a Slant-o-Matic 500, is it the same way as in this video?

[@andytubesewing1953]

It's almost the same, Janie. The 500A/503A models have a different knob is all. Here is a video showing how to install that assembly and I think you'll be able to figure out the disassembly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/haK9i2CrndN0g7s Also, my 401A playlist can help with other parts on your 500A if you find other issues kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO Finally, my 503A playlist has a couple videos that cover some parts of your 500A too kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX If you like having written instructions to fall back on you can download a free copy of the original service manual for your 500A here sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Thanks for watching my channel, and for saving those great sewing machines. Good Luck.

[@CharChar876]

Great bunch of information in this video. Thank you!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Very welcome and thanks for the comment over the holidays.

[@markfannin3975]

Once again you have saved my restoration project with your thorough videos. You helped me identifity several problems that I didn't even know affected the tension function. Many thanks. BTW, where can I buy the tension guage you demonstrated? Very cool. All the best to you Andy.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Glad to help, Mark. I bought the little gauge from the featherweight many years ago. I think it's really a postage meter, haha. They have a better one now. Black with white lettering that's much easier to read. singer-featherweight.com/products/bobbin-tension-meter They used to be the only store that carried it but it's probably available on Amazon and other places too. I loved the 237 I did. It's such a unique design and heavy metal. That traveling hook is wild. Leave it to Italian designers I guess? Take care, friend.

[@markfannin3975]

@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, I really wish we were neighbors. :)

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@markfannin3975 hey I wouldn't mind that one bit 😃

[@rhondamercado7527]

Hey Andy I just saved one of these and was wondering if a different tension knob assembly I have sitting around from a different model will work? She’s in pretty bad shape but I’m going to give it an attempt to save her. That plastic bobbin case cover of course needs replacing too. She’s all seized up but I put kerosene to her last night so it’ll be interesting to see if anything moves today.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm not familiar with any other tension assembly that fits/works with the 237/239

[@laboli8499]

You’re the best, thank you

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you for the nice comment and for watching my channel

[@kathleenmjones5428]

Very informative, learned a lot

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for watching and appreciate the comment. 🙏

[@warclassics]

This is such a great detailed video, thank you. I think the little finger on my tension might be bent too far back because it keeps scratching on the piece with the numbers :( I don't know if I'm just assembling it wrong or if I need to bend it because every time I try to screw the outer knob on it's extremely difficult

[@andytubesewing1953]

Yeah, I don't know if it is the assembly or bent finger, either. Sometimes the stud is "pinched" together a little, and the indicator ( -|+) part does not slide all the way to the back of the stud. Then you won't have much room on the tip of the stud for the other parts and to screw on the thumb nut. If the stud is OK, then be sure your presser bar is down so the release pin is not pushing the parts toward you. Watch @ 42:22 as I oil the thumb nut/knob to help it start onto the stud, then screw it on. See how much room I have for the thumb nut? Does your assemble look like mine at that point? Even if the finger on the stop washer was bent a little you should still be able to screw the thumb knob on. When that knob/nut hesitates for me I turn it backward a turn or two to help seat it on the threads, then screw it on turning right. The thumb knob/nut must be absolutely square to the stud. If it is tilted up or down it won't start onto the stud. Also, the stud can be "spread apart" a little instead of "pinched together" which does make it hard to start the thumb knob/nut. If you remove the parts and look at the open slot of the stud the space between the two "arms" should be equal all the way and if not, like it is pinched or spread apart somewhat, you must fix that before assembly. I'd say about 30% of the stud I worked on were pinched or spread. As far as assembling it wrong, I don't know what to say other than watch how I do it and do yours the same way.

[@warclassics]

@@andytubesewing1953 I figured it out! The finger on my piece needs to be put in the opposite way of yours and every single picture I found for some reason 🤔 I feel so dumb but I got it to work! 😂 Thank you so much for your response and help.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@warclassics Ok 🏆 If you got it working that is the main thing. Congratulations, and don't feel dumb when working on vintage machines. We all learn as we go.

[@meganmills6545]

I think (as in - I read/heard somewhere that I can't remember but it makes sense to me - sorry !) that the reason some manuals say the "beehive spring" should have the last coil facing down is because for those models the little barred washer with the "finger" on it is crooked and curves backwards a bit as well as having the point coming forwards to act as a stop. If that finger is flat it doesn't need any space behind it to accommodate a curve so whether the last coil of the beehive spring is up or down is neither here nor there. For a curved finger, though, the last coil of the beehive spring being down provides that little bit of space for the finger's curve and allows it that barred-washer part to sit "level" on the post. I don't have any models with the flat finger (or the manuals for them) but it could be worth comparing and then, if that's right, you know which way to put that beehive spring regardless of the model you're working on.

[@KeniloTube]

Hi Andy, Thank you for a really informative overhaul/repair of the upper tensioner. Having now purchased 3 more machines, a 201K, a 99K, and a second 185K I have noticed that the tension releasing pin lever on both 185's is not actually touching the tension releasing pin when the presser foot release lever is in the upper most position. Also both have a small spring on the end of the TRP lever which appears to be slightly offset downwards, with only half of that spring on the lower part of the main tensioner body metal cylinder (which is inserted into the main casing) and the other half is on the casing. As the overall movement of the TRP lever is quite minimal when the presser foot lever is moved up or down, neither of the 185K machines tension release pin is touched by the TRP lever. Have you come across this issue before and should I go down the road of constructing a new pin for each made from a 4D nail and make it slightly longer? What do you think?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Replacing the tension pin is usually a last step and only when the tension parts are not original, like an after market replacement, or one from another model. Sometimes there is just dirt/dried oil blocking normal travel of the TRP lever. I've also had a few bent TRP levers. I have e theory that a presser bar will not lift due to being stuck with oil varnished oil in the bushing and someone forced the lifter up, up, up and either bent the lift lever or bent the TRP lever. I've never worked on a 185, but several folks have explained that most of the parts are the same as model 99 that it replaced. I do have parts manuals for those models and they do show the same tension parts. The releasing lever is part #33659. Here is a good picture of one for sale: oldsingershop.com/products/singer-99-99k-sewing-machine-presser-foot-tension-release-lever-simanco-33659?variant=40196874731556 Maybe you can compare it to the ones you have? The bent/angled beehive spring on the lever may be from being forced against the side of the nose from a bent lever. So, first I clean the area to be sure the lever can travel. Then check/adjust the height of the presser bar. The try to see if the release lever is bent. They check/adjust that the tension assembly is properly installed and completely pushed into the space for it. If you'd like a copy of the 185 parts manual email to andymanuals53@gmail. Put SINGER 185 DOCUMENTS in the subject line. I'll have Allan rely with a PFD copy of the parts manual, no charge. Good luck, thanks for saving the machines, and for watching my channel.

[@KeniloTube]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for your excellent reply Andy and sorry for the delayed reply. On my disassembly of the 185K (192K in the US I believe) I did see that there is slight bend on the lever at both ends but I wasn’t aware if it had been made this shape by Singer or not. I will attempt to remove it again, hopefully without having to do a full ‘needle end’ disassembly and flatten it… Thanks again and sorry for the senior moment which caused the previously disjointed message. Ken

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@KeniloTube 👍no worries and good luck.

[@4486xxdawson]

Not sure if you answer questions but i found this exact machine on the side of the road today and picked it up brought it home , going to restore it , anyways im in need of the bobbin door , it seems someone tryed to adjust some stuff and ended up putting a needle through the top of the door and split it , everything else is in great shape and im going to follow your videos on this machine and do it right but can i get parts for it and is it worth it , in need of the bobbin door , also the pedel has a broken hing might need that and i light bulb like a car style ? Wierd

[@andytubesewing1953]

It's a nice machine. One of, if not THE last metal machines made by Singer. Unique hook system and heavy metal parts. There are several for sale on eBay right now for $75 to $200 plus shipping. I think this is what you mean by "bobbin door" www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-237-239-parts/products/singer-sewing-machine-bobbin-race-cover-fits-models-237-239 You can buy vintage parts on eBay from sellers parting out the machine. You can buy used and new foot controllers with and without cords. Buying a new pedal without cords allows you to transfer the old cord into the new unit if wanted. Pedals come with carbon stack systems like the original and also new electronic pedals. You can clean, and perhaps repair, the pedal you have kzbin.info/www/bejne/nH-af4x_Z7h_m9E I have no idea about a "light bulb like a car". You can also buy a new motor + pedal kit for the machine if needed. You need to decide if it is "worth it" as far and time and parts needed. Your starting price is $0.00 so you are way ahead of most people. You can get a free copy of the instruction manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 It has 66 pages of info about using the machine. You can buy and download a copy of the 35-page Service Manual for $10 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ It has everything I did in my videos, plus a few more adjustments if needed. If you have an eBay store you can take the machine apart and sell the pieces for $150+

[@carolinecaviness2983]

Hi there, this is so helpful. I took mine apart and that little beveled plastic piece around the shaft is cracked in a few parts. You don't go quite that far in the disassembly of the tension piece to and I was wondering, do you know what this part is called? Having trouble trying to search for a replacement.

[@andytubesewing1953]

We call it a Tension Stud Gear. The plastic ones do crack with age, I've used super glues before, but now you can find new ones online again. Here is a good company I buy from occasionally, and it says the gear fill fit model 237 millardsewing.com/product/81480-900/ I used to pay $4 to $5 for one so it's nice to see they are only $2 Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.

[@carolinecaviness2983]

@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU! I ordered the tension stud gear and the good company confirmed it will work for the 237. One last question, any tips for how to remove the split shaft in order to replace the stud gear? I'm sure you have a video showing this but I can't seem to find how it is done. Much appreciated!

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@carolinecaviness2983 sorry, I just saw your comment now. With the nose cover removed just look into the nose on the right side at the same height as the t4ension stud. You'll see a small set screw that you remove so you can pull the stud out of the front of the machine.

[@percaine]

Great tutorial..I have a slightly different tensioner on my 413 now that i salvaged from another model parts machine...what a time I had figuring out why my check spring was binding..I was using the thread guides from the original tension assembly(they were almost identical) and it turns out that one of the thread guides was bent just a tiny bit which was causing the check spring to pinch and bind..After using the thread guides from the parts machine it's now working properly..I would have just used and repaired the original tensioner but it was missing when I got the machine.

[@andytubesewing1953]

That's great trouble-shooting there! Some clearances on the machines are very exact and a slight thing, like bent-guide, can wreak havoc. You must understand the workings of that spring that you realized what was binding it. Very nicely done and thanks for sharing that here where others could see the possibility.

[@percaine]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks but I think I just got lucky..I have another issue with the same machine that I can't wrap my head around..The feed dogs seem to be moving fine and the presser foot seems to be working properly but no matter what setting I have the knobs and levers set to the fabric will not feed forward..It does seem to somewhat feed backwards but still not properly..Any ideas?

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@percaine Model 237M has a feed throw-out system with a control knob at the front right corner of the bed. If you have that model it may be that knob is partially engaged. The knob lowers the feed dog for free-motion sewing, monogramming, and darning. Otherwise, the feed log may be set too low. With the stitch length set at 12 when the dog is all the way up the top of the teeth should be .040 to .043 inches above the top of the needle plate. (that's a common Singer machine setting, BTW). Here is the Playlist of my 20+ videos for Model 237 kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h One of the videos is about setting the feed dog to the proper height, kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWnNl3dvecl9aLM If that is not the problem you can go to this website and buy a Service Manual for $9.95 The manual has 35 pages with all the settings, adjustment, remove & replace parts info for Model 237/239

[@percaine]

​@@andytubesewing1953 I actually have the 413 but I'll look for the same knob or lever on it..I just got the machine and had to unseize almost everything on it and replace the vertical shaft top gear..I must be missing something and it wouldn't surprise me if it was something really simple and obvious..lol

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@percaine Hey! 👀 My bad; you did mention it's a 413, sorry. the 413 has an adjustment for the feed dog throw! (forward and backward stroke/movement) On the bottom of the machine, above the pulley on the right side, is an eccentric hinge stud and by tuning it you change how far the feed travels. A set screw holds the stud so you loosen the set screw and turn the eccentric hinge stud to get the throw you want, then retighten the set screw. The normal setting is with the handwheel turned so the dog is all the way forward (away from you) the shorter center teeth of the dog should have a gap of .003 inch from the slot of the needle plate. The end of the slot nearest you. If you want to email [e-mail] I will send you a copy of the service manual. Just mention model 413 in the subject line. Thanks.

[@sewndebisdream6953]

I'm having trouble with my spring being tight on my Kenmore 185-1345 model after reassemble. It's just trial an error which I'm still working on.👍

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'd like to help, but do not know anything about Kenmore machines. Good Luck.

[@neilrobinson8101]

This should hopefully help me sort out the tension release. However, I've got a problem - the screw holding in the thread guide won't go back in and I suspect it could be damaged thread on the machine as the screw looks ok. Have you got any suggestions? Cheers

[@andytubesewing1953]

I've never had that, but things do happen on these old machines. I have had plenty of screw holes that were hard to start and it was usually due to debris inside the hole/threads, often from the gunk that came off the screw while removing it. Like flakes of dried oil. I assume it came off normally? Anyway, I looked at the parts list and that screw is part #335/855. Looking at the list of Singer Screw Sizes it shows #355 as follows: Dia = 1/8" TPI = 44 Singer Tap = TE507 Alt Tap = #5 UNF Key is Dia = Diameter, TPI = Threads Per Inch, Alt Tap is Alternate Tap that works, and that is lucky! UNF = Unified. Many old screws were only made by Singer but that screw is a unified tap👍 So you could have/borrow/buy a #5-44 Unidifed Tap and oil it and gently turn it by hand into the hole. This can clean out any debris and kind of "reset" the threads. Often that is all that is needed and your screw will fit then. Alternative methods are to clean the hole with a 1/8" wire tapered or round brush, wire is preferred. You can also dip a strip of a t-shirt in kerosene or alcohol and push an end thru with a toothpick and "shoeshine" it back and forth trying to dissolve gunk and flush it out. You can also try inserting the screw from the backside of the hole. That has worked a couple of times for me. It may go in if there is damage to threads at the front of the hole, where it usually happens. Putting in and removing the screw, gently, from the back can also clean and somewhat "reset" the threads in the hole. Just remember in the back you turn the screw backward, so lefty tighty, righty loosey, and not righty tighty lefty loosey like from the front. BTW, if you buy a tap the bright metal ones are cheaper most of the time b/c they don't last as long, but you'll just be cleaning an existing tap not cutting a new one.

[@neilrobinson8101]

​@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for the reply! I'm a bit of a newbie, but your videos are very helpful. My machine is slightly later but has a similar tensioner. The thread issue turned out to be a square nut that had fallen inside the machine. (A bit of a doh! moment, considering I didn't need to undo that screw - now watching your videos instead of trying to work out for myself!). Anyhow, I replaced the broken plastic +/- ring which has solved my problem. Your videos really helped, so thank you. However, I'm still getting bad stitches only in reverse. I've just watched your video about stroke/check spring, so will try that first. Have you got any suggestions for reverse not stitching well? (loops on the underside). It's ok in the normal direction. Also, have you got any info on finding service manuals online? I can online find user manuals. Cheers!

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@neilrobinson8101 I've not encountered such a problem with reverse stitching before. Normally looping under fabric is tension unbalanced (more bobbin thread tension than needle thread tension) but I do not know what would change tension when reversing direction. Let the feed dog move the fabric; don't try to "help it" along either direction. There is an adjustment for the feed dog from the front to back in the needle plate slots. It's not a common adjustment, but with the age of these machines who knows how many people have fooled with stuff. The adjustment involves turning an off-center hinge stud and if someone turned it past the 180deg mark then the high side of the stud is on the wrong side. I did that once and it really messed up the stitching. It is in the Service Manual. That or user error is all I can think of at the moment. The two places I buy Service Manuals from the most are TANDREPAIR ( 20% off coupon thru 12/31/2021 is andy-h-yt) store.tandtrepair.com/repairmanuals.html and manualsoncd.com but I've heard they only let you buy one (1) manual now manualsoncd.com/

[@kyrieeleison1905]

how do u know what the right length is for the pin? i have a 7136 but cannot find a spec.. i have zero release when i lift the foot.. it seems the plastic "gear" that holds the spring is too long... it spaces the washers out too far... there is a gap behind the rear washer.. i dont know if this is normal? should there be a gap between the thread guide piece and the washers/discs that apply tension to the thread? so its either the gear is too long or the pin too short.. how do u find what the dimensions should be?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Frustrating, isn't it? Your model is in a group made in Monza, Italy in the early 1980s and I've never seen one here, but happen to have a parts list for it. The tension pin is part number 37986 and was used on a few model numbers over the decade. You can probably find one on eBay. As to the rest of the dimensions, who knows? they are not listed or recorded anywhere I've been able to find. Maybe your parts are not the original ones for the machine. The part number for the entire assembly is 422403-455, and you can find them online. Here is one the mentions your specific model number: www.ebay.com/itm/TENSION-ASSEMBLY-Complete-Singer-7136-7174-8100-8200-8500-8600-8734-8774-8834-/271429872620 IF you don't mind the wait, here it is for 75% less shipping from China (where they are all made) www.ebay.com/itm/Tension-Assembly-For-Singer-242-247-254-360-362-367-368-7105-422403-455/264773987905?hash=item3da5c26e41:g:lfkAAOSw3H1dz6Im

[@starsingleton5347]

Thanks Andy!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome. I've always liked the name "Star". Every Star I've ever met is a wonderful person ✨ Thanks for commenting.

[@tompahdea5799]

The plastics "gass off" which eliminates its flexibility, gets brittle and then with the appropriate amount of pressure will crack. All plastics/rubber does that as part of their oil product origins. That is what happens with the gears installed after metal gears stopped. Gassing off will increase if a machine is subject to higher levels of heat such as if stored in attics or garages where the air temp may get higher than what you would experience inside a house.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for sharing, Tom. I was not aware of this "gas off". I figured the indicator bar cracked just due to repeated flexing from the tension release pin. What you're saying makes sense to me when I think of sewing machine cases I have seen that were exposed to sunlight and heat from being in a window sill or nearby, or stored in an outdoor shed. On one of them, the latch by the nose end broke the surrounding plastic to pieces as soon as I lifted it, while the latch and plastic on the other end by the handwheel was still normal colored and flexible.

[@tommymarshall5836]

Very well done great info Thanks

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for watching my channel, Tommy, and I appreciate your comment.

[@richlovin2173]

The part that failed should not have been made of plastic. Is there a metal substitute? I have to repair one now.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I do not know of a metal indicator dial for this model of Singer. Some people have glued in a double plastic bar and some have formed a flat metal coil with the crossbar in the center.

[@rhondamercado7527]

After leaving my comment on your Coco video I found this video. I knew you covered a measurement somewhere and I just happened to have come across this one. You’re saying that for the 237 the pin should be 1 1/4 inch. On the Coco video you did not indicate the size of the pin so I’m just wondering what size that one is for the 301a. The 301A I found last week is missing both the bobbin case and the pin.😞.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I never measured the pin on a 301A or other models than this 237. I've seen a few pins that were round on both ends. Since you have that spare pin I'd start with that. Try it and see if it works. If it is too short you can make one longer. If your spare is too long you can file it down a bit until you find it works properly. If you watched this video you see it's not hard to make one. There are a couple of places that sell new ones but do not mention the length: www.sewingmachinesplus.com/81572.php?gclid=CjwKCAiAu9yqBhBmEiwAHTx5p6ocaOZ-gWSrzrEkXixAPaxdjLQoNWJT6_FfCppb_jehyE8Jm6QYUBoCL24QAvD_BwE millardsewing.com/product/tension-release-pin-for-422403/?Google+Shopping&MSC+Complete+-+Patterns&gclid=CjwKCAiAu9yqBhBmEiwAHTx5p6gRWRJ4rAlU80E8deCxw4MBYJvA1zaaI74NE__9ZSQXJtghtnlD6RoCZpYQAvD_BwE They both have a flat end. I just figured it was easier to make what I needed.

[@rhondamercado7527]

@@andytubesewing1953 unfortunately, I can’t get my 301A tension unit right. I have two different pins and one of them is 1 1/4 inch long but even that one is not working for me. I followed your 301A Coco video to the T so I’m thinking it has something to do with maybe that first dial that goes on before the behive spring isn’t going back far enough/flush. I’ll get back on the machine in a bit. I didn’t realize those pins play a big part in all of this, and then knowing now that the length can vary from one machine to another. I’ve watched pretty much all of your playlist on tension units so if I missed any you probably covered this issue. I’m gonna go back and see what I may have missed. Thanks

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@rhondamercado7527 That first dial is called the indicator dial ( - | + ) to test the function of those parts just install everything up and including the indicator dial. Apply gentle pressure on the dial while lifting the presser bar lever. You should feel the indicator dial move slightly toward you. That would indicate that everything up to that point works OK. Here are some things I have found when someone worked on the tension before me. That happened on your machine b/c the pin was missing. 1. The tension stud was not inserted 100% into the hole. If it was 1/32" lacking of complete insertion it can affect the tension function. Remove the stud, clean it and the hole, and reinsert it completely to the back. 2. The Tension Pin Releasing Lever is damaged. I've had a couple of those that were bent and did not push against the backside of the pin enough to move the pin into the stud the proper amount. I was not able to "fix" the bent levers but had to replace them. 3. The slot down the center of the stud had been deformed. Sometimes the two sides of the slot were "pinched" together a little (or a lot) and sometimes they were also twisted a little. It's a lot of work with needle nose pliers and round metal shafts, like a screwdriver shank, to reform the slot in the stud. If you feel the indicator dial is not going on all the way flush towards the machine it may be because the slot is pinched together a little. That happens when folks can't get tension on the thread (like when they forget to put the pin back in) and they just keep tightening the thumb nut tighter and tighter. The complete tension system has 17 parts. They all have to be in good condition and installed properly for the assembly to function correctly. You first concentrated on the pin b/c it was missing. Now you are thinking it's the indicator dial. Don't forget there are 15 more parts that must be correctly working to get proper tension on the needle thread.

[@rhondamercado7527]

@@andytubesewing1953 yes! All of this. I thoroughly enjoyed the Coco tension video. I think I got it fixed. I watched your video last night removing the bobbin case base (I think that’s what it is). I see thread inside of it so that’s my next project to tackle. You make it look real easy in the video, I’m sure I’ll manage that as well. Thank you so much Andy. I can’t wait to get the bobbin case in. Unfortunately, it’s not an original or one from the feather weight shop but I’ve had mixed reviews on the one that I am getting so I’m curious to see how it’s gonna work. Other than that I think the 301A is gonna be ready for test sewing in just a few days.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@rhondamercado7527 Oh, OK. I've used a couple different aftermarket bobbin cases. They all worked fine for me but they make more noise than the original one. Good Luck.

[@annhancock1371]

Has anyone tried the 201 replacement tension assemblies on a 237? I actually have worse problems than the indicator dial broken. Actually looks like they were already replaced at one point because they are lighter beige. No, the thumbnut is completely missing the stud bent, and the stud gear in pieces. The 201 assembly looks so much like the 237 assembly. Are they the same dimensions?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hi, Ann. It's tempting, isn't it? They do look alike as far as style goes (type) I've never seen a parts manual from SInger that had dimensions like that listed, just parts numbers and names. The problem with swapping like that is the stud and release pin can be slightly different lengths which won't work properly with the releasing lever inside the nose of the machine. I've fooled around with a lot of them over the years and some replacements you can modify a little and make them kind of work. The sellers of the new "universal" tension claim they work on many. many models. Like some of these list the model 237: www.amazon.com/s?k=singer+model+237+tension&crid=10JNIMQ1QVMKM&sprefix=singer+model+237+tension%2Caps%2C129&ref=nb_sb_noss Sometimes it depends on the definition of "works on". It might fit but not have a full range of tension as an example. It's always better to go with the original like this used one on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/234993717015?hash=item36b6b78f17:g:z-4AAOSwTvZkTuNd Sellers may say "works great" on a used part but lack the understanding of how the part actually functions. Like works great may me they twisted the thumb nut and it moved, haha. You have the risk that the bar of the indicator dial is cracked like in my video, but the other parts are likely ok. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel,.

[@shanachelich2782]

Hi Andy, are you knowledgeable about Japanese machines (Singer clones)? I have a Stitchmaster, made in Japan in 1967, very similar to the Singer 237. I need a new tension check spring, but don´t know what to order. I wonder if it would be the same as this 237.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Don't know much about the clones, sorry. There are many styles of check springs. Some sellers list the size/dimensions of it so maybe you could measure yours and compare. Here are two good sellers I have used for a number of years. You could also email a picture of your spring, tension unit, and machine with size and see if they recommend anything. Here is a 237 spring from one seller: shop.sew-classic.com/Check-Spring-Tension-Singer-401-500-221-201-more-66774.htm and here is her tension spring page: shop.sew-classic.com/Tension-Parts_c29.htm Here is the spring from another seller: www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/singer-thread-tension-take-up-check-spring?_pos=11&_sid=e8eb4898a&_ss=r and his tension spring page: www.vintagesingerparts.com/search?page=1&q=check+spring That's all I have for you, Shana and good luck.

[@munadababneh4293]

Thank you very much

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome. Happy the video was helpful to you.

[@wangsakaban6wangsakaban688]

minta tolong, tutorial cara ganti vantbelt singer j-a8, terima kasih dari Indonesia Jakarta

[@andytubesewing1953]

Ini semua yang saya miliki kzbin.info/www/bejne/boXEoqyoi8ecnpY www.singer.com/search/support?title=223

[@rich-f-in-tx6388]

1:03:00 *Thread check spring stroke* setting

[@andytubesewing1953]

👀👍

[@connieworcester55]

Plastic... uhh... that's why I like the vintage black Singers.. can't beat em.. I do like this machine, but it does have a couple of weak spots.. (plastic)... I got my ebay take up lever arm/linkage parts for (Mia) my 237 today.. I had to pull the stud from mine, and the 2 E clips to put on the new/used take up linkage.. I got the parts all put back in the nose, then re-assembled the vibrating bracket & bushings, pressure bar-needle bar, top vibrating bracket bar, adjusted the needle to center, tightened the set screw, adjusted the needle bar height/timing marks,.. easy peasy,, all works SMOOOTH ,, (straight stitch, zigzag, left, center, right) all good.! ...(( THANKS TO >> ANDY TUBE.!!!))

[@andytubesewing1953]

You're just a restoration maniac. I love it! Sounds like it's all coming together. Nice! I do like the 237 even with the plastic indicator dial and the silly way they put the slide plate on. It's still marvelous machine. Those plastic parts lasted about 50 years, which is probably 10 times what they last. Nowadays, a newly made black singer like you have in today's dollars would probably cost two or three thousand easily

[@connieworcester55]

@@andytubesewing1953 yes, the old black Singers, with the all metal parts, cast iron base, the precision machining ,, even some of the attachments had crazy good engineering, they were like a little machine in themselves, imagine the cost to make today.. uh.. I bet in today's. $$ the old Singers would be closer to 5,000 and up? That's why we love them, and keep them out of the landfills.. Thank you for being a huge part of that.!! I'm trying to decide what my next Singer might be?

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@connieworcester55 SO many to choose from! 301A, 404, and 403A are some of my favs.

[@connieworcester55]

@@andytubesewing1953 I will watch more of your video on other Singers, and see which machine I want to keep a lookout for. The more I watch, the more I learn. 🙂. This video was so helpful, and so timely; since I just finished putting "Mia" back together, and wanted to check her tension. I checked out her tension assembly, took it all apart, and all is good with it.. then I zero'ed it out like you showed us. Thank you.!! Sometimes tension adjusting can give us a tension headache . 😵‍💫 haha.. I like the part where you talked about less tension on a zigzag stitch.. " Mia" was missing a zigzag stitch once in a while, on (her first test run),, not many misses, but one missed stitch is to many. and I tried loosening the tension for the zigzag stitch like you said,, and WALA.. problem solved.!! Your detailed tutorials are the BEST..!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@connieworcester55 thanks so much for your kind words. Connie and you're my favorite type of viewer because you listen so well. I try to give those bits of information to save people, headaches and tension haha. With the hopes that they can just keep their machines running and have fun sewing. I appreciate so much that you catch the tips and info I try to share in the video. Thank you!

[@Dubidub2]

Thanks for this video. I have godt the same problem with my Singer 237 plastic tensioner case, but I managed to make a fix by bending a part of Ø1.5 mm steel thread. Link to Picture below. In this way the thread tension is released when your presser foot is up. It was not that easy, and you have to be carefull, that the check spring continues to Work properly. But it was possible. However the plastic part with the -|+ do not have a fixed position. So you need to position it with the signs upwards, and it do not turn by itself. www.dropbox.com/s/zuf10p33ftbspva/Tensioner%20repair%20Singer%20237-2.jpg?dl=0

[@andytubesewing1953]

A very clever solution, Viggo! Thanks for sharing. I pin your comment to the top so others will see it. Thanks for watching my channel. I also enjoyed your Dynamometer video that is here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIiYaZahhLppj6s

[@JesusCliment]

I did a similar thing, with some brass: photos.app.goo.gl/CDz9krnxsrqTEBhB8

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@JesusCliment Oh this is sweet, Jesus! It looks like a factory-made part! When people ask me how to replace their broken indicator dial I'm going to refer them to your comment! It's kind of you to share this with my viewers. Thank you very much.

[@C_U_R_I_E_L]

1:20:34