DIY Exhaust Ceramic Coating Application: Cerakote C-Series. ( Air Cure, No Oven Required )

DIY Exhaust Ceramic Coating Application: Cerakote C-Series. ( Air Cure, No Oven Required )
In this tutorial, I'll guide you through the step-by-step process of applying Cerakote C-Series ceramic coating on your exhaust, and the best part is, you won't need an oven for curing!
Cerakote C-Series is a high-quality ceramic coating designed specifically for exhaust systems, providing excellent heat resistance, durability, and corrosion protection. Since its air-cured, you can achieve professional-looking results right in your own garage or driveway.
Throughout the video, I'll demonstrate the necessary preparations, including cleaning and surface preparation, to ensure proper adhesion of the ceramic coating. We'll also share valuable tips and techniques to help you achieve a smooth and even application.
You'll learn how to properly mix and apply Cerakote C-Series, ensuring full coverage and optimal performance. We'll cover techniques for achieving a flawless finish and address common mistakes to avoid during the application process.
Whether you're a seasoned DIY enthusiast or new to ceramic coating applications, this video is perfect for anyone looking to enhance the appearance and performance of their exhaust system. Join us as we embark on this exciting DIY journey together!
Don't forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell to stay updated on my latest tutorials and automotive tips. Get ready to take your exhaust system to the next level with the DIY Exhaust Ceramic Coating Application using Cerakote C-Series. Let's get started...
Products used in this video:
Cerakote C-Series Coating: amzn.to/3N8GbFw
-4oz will coat 2 shorty headers, 16oz is needed to coat a set of longtubes. My catback took 12oz.
Sandblaster: amzn.to/42jXvM0
Aluminum Oxide Media: amzn.to/3MJ7d4R
Paint Gun: amzn.to/3qlxLlc
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
I source all of my service data from the same place that professional shops do. You can as well: www.pntrac.com/t/SENKSUZKRktD...
Questions? Shoot me an email at [e-mail]
00:00 Intro
1:09 Products that I'm going to apply
3:10 Exhaust disassembly
4:32 Degreasing/media blasting the parts
6:11 Gas Out/degreasing
7:57 Mixing up the Cerakote C Series
8:33 Details on the spray gun
9:16 How to spray Cerakote
11:42 How the parts look right after spraying
12:27 Info on dry times and exhaust reassembly
14:00 Final Results on the catback
15:45 How does Cerakote hold up?
21:02 Does it help with radiant heat?
23:24 Outro
#cerakote #diy #headers #exhaust #ceramiccoating #rust
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[@RepairGeek]

Products used in this video: Cerakote C-Series Coating: amzn.to/3N8GbFw -4oz will coat 2 shorty headers, 16oz is needed to coat a set of longtubes. My catback took 12oz. Sandblaster: amzn.to/42jXvM0 Aluminum Oxide Media: amzn.to/3MJ7d4R Paint Gun: amzn.to/3qlxLlc My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.

[@72blazer48]

Have used Cerakota for years on projects, process used, non humid day, have spray set all ready to spray, then media blast part, immediately spray after completing blast/wipe, only spray one thin coat to cover!, spray gun press around 18 psi. Blast w/110 grit garnet. Coat all kinds of parts for corrosion protection.

[@davidkinney9390]

In cerakotes training videos on KZbin they say use a 0.8 nozzle.

[@leardi58]

Thanks for taking the time to so us and supplying names ECT 👍👍

[@mwalker9401]

Pro tip for applying a topcoat that's close in color to the base. Don't. Spray it with a contrasting color first, then spray it with the color you want. That finished job looks like very high temp coating I've ever used but none of them ever lasted for anything with 100% correct prep and application. Most coatings, especially high heat coatings, need to be dusted on. In my experience, any wet coat will crack and flake.

[@mwalker9401]

oh, great vid as usual. I'm bad at that part

[@joeybrazda364]

Great video man. Really appreciate how thorough and honest you are

[@willtron4327]

Great transparency on the DPF! The color on the catback of the mustang looks great as well

[@FrequencyOfThought]

looks really good, never would of thought of using cerekote..

[@dueljet]

Awesome video as usual!

[@warrenmoyses4424]

Hint....I do exhausts in Cerakote all the time, 2 more v twin sets coming in tomorrow. Wipe them down with acetone before blasting, blast then wash them really wet with virgin acetone. Leave overnight and then coat. No need to gas out.

[@chestrockwell8328]

Helpful information. Just by happenstance this is second video in a row that I've watched this morning where both are from Ohio.

[@greenman7yyy]

Cool test, nice review of performance.

[@jakecarey83]

Thank you for the video, ive concluded ill buy high end stainless steel and chrome tips to try and avoid me burying myself into another project. Ive made plenty of extra work modding my 72 ranchero as it is 😅

[@Will_JJHP]

Junkyard Dave has a video on his KZbin page where he took Cerakote's class before applying the stuff and there are lots of simple details that make all the difference. Would suggest watching. I have a feeling it'll inspire you to do a follow-up video on the subject

[@TheBrokenLife]

I've had terrible results with similar products in the past... even after all of the insane amounts of prep (I also sandblasted everything and all of that) and paying to have the coating professionally baked on by a powder coating shop. It always ended up looking like your DPF within weeks and was a lost cause within months. My take away from those experiences was that my effort and money were better spent by buying higher quality stainless exhaust parts. I can't think of the last time I saw an OEM system that wasn't at least 400 series stainless. It will look terrible forever, but it will hold on for years and years. Aftermarket is easy to get in whatever you want to pay for. I put a 409 system on my Fox in 2007 and it has fairly light surface rust after all these years.

[@hemiman74]

Also own a foxbody, what did you use on the floor pans and basically everything under the car? The Mastercoat ag 111 ? The MM suspension is sick! Waiting to put my panhard bar and lower control arms on. May cerakote my flow masters! Maybe they won’t rust away. Lol

[@tryandtakealaska3797]

the temp inside the pipe will not change i tested with a temp gun my manifold and turbo after Cerakote made a 250 average drop but I did inside and out g black on manifold an ti red pistion coat on in and out of turbo. thanks for sharing

[@Turboactive]

I'm interested in using this on my truck which suffers from a multitude of problems because of radiant exhaust heat, boiling fuel and heating up rear AC lines etc. Interesting that you didn't see any difference in EGT with and without it. I had my project car turbo manifold and downpipe professionally ceramic coated by a local shop and the difference was staggering. It really cut down on the radiant heat and enormous amount. Will be interested to see if you notice anything. On my turbo car after driving I can place my hand over the downpipe and feel a little warmth and then move my hand a few inches to the turbo itself and feel a TON of heat coming off. Really makes a big difference. Would be interested in hearing if you can feel the same thing.

[@robbfisher2876]

That's because he's measuring inside the DPF, he mentioned it. His thought process is a wee bit off, during regen the ECU will dump whatever fuel is needed to maintain temp. I used C-186 piston coat on the inside and C-7600 on the outside of a custom downpipe... fantastic stuff IF it's applied properly.

[@ramazanciftci3513]

Hi, If We use heat paint like grill paint, is that gonna work?

[@GTRliffe]

use a flame inside the pipe to offgass

[@jeffk3192]

In order to remove the small pits of rust you may have had luck with something like Loctite naval jelly. Pretty much a thickened acid rust remover.

[@user-rz1mq9ky8y]

Try spraying Fertan inside the exhaust

[@btbd2785]

The sand blaster gun you are using is not what is in the link provided. Is that le lematec sand blasting gun decent?

[@mar1video]

It doesn’t matter. As long as you click on the link.🤪

[@user-jv2ym8eu8l]

Isnt V series better?

[@allenying]

anyone else just use rustoleum automotive exhaust primer and paint, or vht's version. i did it last year with a new aftermarket exhaust, too soon to tell but i imagine it must deter some rust.

[@schafer240]

I've used the vht flameproof, it's cheap and works great. Only downside is durability, it seems to last but easy to scratch, I use it mostly for under header wrap and to seal header wrap. Works great for that. I'd bet cerakote scratch resistance is much better from the videos I've seen. (simular to powdercoat)

[@ZZZ31Z]

It also seems like you are spraying way too fast and far away from the part. You don't do a "Light Coat" with Cerakote. That will cause dry spray. You spray more close and slow in one pass. You can overlap by say 50% or so and obviously it's dependent on the amount of volume and fan pattern you have set your spray gun to and also the pressure. I normally spray at 30psi on the big surfaces, and you dial down air and volume for the tight areas, you can also tap the trigger in tight spots to prevent dry spray. It's nothing like spraying any automotive paints, as it's not really a paint.

[@quicksilverguy21]

How is the mustang coating holding up?

[@RepairGeek]

Still perfect. Just a little dirty from road grime.

[@MrRaab-hu9rs]

Is this the same stuff (but high temp) that is used by the gun crowd?

[@RepairGeek]

Yep, what series the gun guys are using I'm not sure. C series is the high temp stuff.

[@MrRaab-hu9rs]

@@RepairGeek H-Series. It's a bake on coating. It has to be heated to cure. It's good, but at the end of the day, it is still paint. Paint and moving parts do not mix well.

[@warrenmoyses4424]

@@MrRaab-hu9rs If you have ever applied cerakote you will understand it is a very different beast to "paint" and 9 times thinner when applied

[@ZZZ31Z]

@@RepairGeek On guns it's normally H Series or Elite. The Graphite Black I used on my Glock, lasted longer on the barrel than the factory finish on the Gen5. Seeing I do this for a living, my Glock has been 8 different colours.

[@mblake0420]

Stainless

[@sirgawayn]

Definitely interesting video, but you can't really hold a product accountable for not performing when you deviated from the application/prep instructions a dozen times. =)

[@RepairGeek]

Feel free to show me how it's done.

[@shootingsportstransparency7461]

Normaly a exhaust rust from inside out

[@RepairGeek]

0:30

[@shootingsportstransparency7461]

@@RepairGeek correct

[@ItsAlive111]

Exhaust temp sensors are way too high upstream the exhaust for the gasses to be hotter. That’s strictly controlled by the engine

[@RepairGeek]

I'm dealing with an emissions equipped diesel truck. The truck has 5 EGT sensors. The rear most sensor is right behind the DPF and the piping that's been coated.

[@Mike-01234]

Brake cleaner is NOT a good product to use under paint coatings. Better to use grease and wax remover it's made for cleaning before painting. I know PPG one of them had a big note said if you use brake cleaner under the paint, they won't warranty it. Could also be from the days of chlorinated brake cleaner. Sandblasting is expensive if you take it to a shop to do it. $300 now to blast a set of headers used to be $100. I actually had my own media blaster for number of years tough business for mobile blasting. Was nice to be able to blast my own parts compressor was 150 PSI at 210 CFM diesel powered Rotary screw compressor like a super charger. Everyone called me asked if I could blast their exhaust system only take me about 20 minutes the blast pattern was about 6 inches, I used crushed glass.

[@RepairGeek]

I appreciate the insight but, this isn't PPG paint. Cerakote says brake cleaner is perfectly fine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mabUoGuclJyZpbc

[@shane250]

Holy hell... Nope! Seems like if you consider the time+effort+tools cost+parts cost, and the longevity of the product, I think it's better to just replace the corroded parts exhaust every 10 years or so. The exhaust for my car is 1 huge piece, and was only $120 for a used in amazing condition. Maybe next time I'm buying a replacement I'll consider coating it, but I'm definitely not removing everything+replacing the flange gaskets+prepping+reinstalling the one already on my car.

[@ZZZ31Z]

For it to last your prep work needs to be a lot more thorough. The pipe you sprayed on the truck was basically not prepped at all. I spray tons of Brabus and AMG pipes, also a lot of Ferrari and Lambo exhaust tips. And I follow all the instructions. Cerakote is not really a DIY product if you don't have all the right equipment.

[@RepairGeek]

I bet you pull the pipes off as well, giving you a better finished product. Removing the exhaust on my daily, like I stated in the video wasn't really an option due to time constraints. I did the work on a Saturday and had to drive the vehicle Monday. Also, I've never seen anyone drive a Lambo through a foot of snow and the salt that goes along with that. My truck sees that environment daily in the winter. My Mustang that is a garage queen like a Lambo, my application looks perfect still. Comparing the environment a Ferrari sees to the environment my truck sees is literally like comparing apples and oranges.

[@jakecarey83]

@@RepairGeek I heavily prefer apples over oranges. They have less citrus, which hurts my tum tum, the textures meaty instead of mushy, and the flavors rich instead of sugary. Fuck oranges, #ApplesForTheWin 😎

[@gavnonadoroge3092]

this is too much work, there has to be an easier way

[@chestypuller9614]

under the truck is hideous compared to the car