Repairing Chrysler engine computer for NOT CHARGING BATTERY - Jeep Wrangler, Liberty & Dodge Nitro

[@DTEAuto]

Wow, thanks for that great tutorial, super helpful to see that you can test so much in order to be 100% sure to find the problem first and foremost but secondly use those same techniques to verify the repair! great work as always and appreciate the help and shout out lol 👍👍

[@ecurepair]

Glad you enjoyed it and happy you sent it in.

[@autoelectricconnection7021]

Hey J. Another great video and great explanation of a common problem on these units. Well demonstrated and repaired. Keep em coming.

[@SirLocksalot]

yet again another awesome video love watching you work brother!

[@ecurepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@salahabdulselam556]

I saw this pulser tool on one of your videos and was confused what you where doing hahah , now I know what it is after watching this one haha Enjoying your work

[@ecurepair]

thanks! Its a handy little tool for checking logic circuits. Usually quicker then setting up function generator.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Great video Thanks! I really Appreciate you talking us through this one

[@davidessien5465]

Thank you so much sir for uploading this video. It's really helpful. Please, the internal components are always covered with a gum, using a screw driver to gently peel the gum, without covering the gum again, hope it wouldn't cause any issues.

[@keyworksva]

A wire bristle brush works better

[@davidessien5465]

@@keyworksva okay. Thank you so much sir 👍.

[@JOHNPHUFNAGEL]

awesome video thanks for sharing

[@ednewell1847]

Awesome video showing the diag and repair on this ecu. The alternator generally is what takes these chips out. I usually install a inline fuse to prevent it from reoccurring. Where do you generally source the replacement chips for this repair?

[@ecurepair]

Im not sure of a reliable source for these any more. I purchased a 1000 or so when they first hit end of life status thankfully.

[@congabuena]

Which wire do you install the fuse on, what amperage?

[@ednewell1847]

@@congabuena I use 10 amp fuse. The field coil generally draws around 2-5amps

[@carcomputerscom]

you are right on the money with your work... and as you mentioned... the problem now is getting the chips... most available are fakes from china these days...

[@davidessien5465]

Please sir, can you help me highlight the tools you use in this video?

[@mikei.7425]

Can you share what temp and air rate you use to remove these chips? Is it the same for installation? Do you pre-solder the chip before installing?

[@ecurepair]

I wouldn't recommend attempting this repair for beginners at ecu repair or DIY'ers with lower end tools. The chip is fairly difficult to remove and place back properly. It will disperse a lot of heat and beginners not used to working with large driver chips attached to the aluminum casings are likely to do more damage then good on these. With that said, I rarely change my hot air station off max heat and air. I use a quick 861 & older metcal 900. You will have a hard time removing this without a preheater or additional hot air station.

[@mikei.7425]

@@ecurepair Okay thank you. I have several junk pcms here to practice on and a bunch of the chips from China. I have an Atten 862D which is quite similar to the Quick as well as a Hakko FM-203 with various tips, so I am good there. I was able to remove the chip, after several minutes at 430C and 50%, without a preheater, but I think I will buy one as the Yihua 853 is not very expensive and will get the job done. I did remove the chip and presoldered the board but not with enough solder though I think. I will try again when I have the preheater. Will try to preload the solder on the board first. Then I will try pre-soldering the chip and see which is provides a better result.

[@ecurepair]

@@mikei.7425 the 853 is a bit small but works good. I put these back with lead solder. I tin the pads and chip both lightly with more focus on the two center pads. Then I will use a ultra fine tip to make sure the edge pins are good.

[@mikei.7425]

@@ecurepair Thanks Jason!

[@jeffreycook11]

Great video! Good info. What type of scanner and software are you using for the duty cycle test?

[@ecurepair]

its an autel 908

[@ecu-repair-programme]

exelent video plz any recomendation from where to buy reliable ship

[@ecurepair]

these are obsolete now so its hard to source real ones with no defects. You can buy out of china but your will find that some out of the batch you get will be faulty because they are mostly salvaged and made to look new again from what I have seen.

[@ecu-repair-programme]

@@ecurepair i already buy many from different place and all not working . i realy dont know what to do

[@docdiesel422]

Where did you get that banana connector test lamp???

[@ecurepair]

amzn.to/465uhnB

[@docdiesel422]

@@ecurepair thanks! Love the content

[@Fastest94v6]

How can I locate a pinout of the ecu components? I am getting into repairing clusters and ecu’s but to figure out the guts of the electrical is difficult.

[@calholli]

Where are you located? I live in Oklahoma.. I'm a DIY mechanic of sorts and I've been watching diag channels since like 2019 and learning from everyone for a long while now.. I even have a scope and 2 different scan tools now. Anyway, my issue is that I have a 2010 Dodge Nitro 3.7L and the accelerator pedal signal drops out. As you know, there are two APP signals in the pedal--- on the scantool APP 2 will randomly drop to zero every few seconds, no matter what position the pedal is in. So I pulled the accel connector under the dash and applied voltage through an LED test light to the APP 2 wire to simulate a full throttle on the pedal-- and it still drops out in live data......... So I did some continuity checks at the ECM and found my APP 2 wire: with key on- I pulled the plug off of the ecm and again applied voltage through an LED test light DIRECTLY to the pin on the ECM.. The scantool showed APP 2 high (at 5v) just like it would if I was holding full throttle on the pedal (which is unhooked at the moment)------ and STILL the signal drops out in random pulses. So I know for a fact that the problem is internal to the ECM. The crazy part is it doesn't even throw a code. I can drive it for a few blocks and then it will trip that "lightening bolt" warning on the dash and go into limp mode--- but no code at all?? and if I just cycle the key off and back on (and start again)-- it will reset and work as normal once again. Have you ever heard of this, and what should I do to fix it? Should I open up the ECU? Could I possibly send it to you? Everything else works fine, it's just that accelerator signal dropping out inside the computer. (I took screen shots of the signal dropping out if it's needed.) I'm not sure if my scantools will be able to program a new VIN if I get another computer, so I would rather fix this one. (xtool D8 and x431 Pro). What are my options-- any response, help or advice would be much appreciated. thanks.

[@ecurepair]

sent you a email

[@calholli]

@@ecurepair Ok.. sweet

[@kylebeers8445]

Dose this same chip also control the asd?

[@ecurepair]

Yea it does for these 3 models

[@andrewscott2866]

I have recently had a PCM repaired (by a reputable company) for my '11 caravan and after installation, it threw a torque converter lockup solenoid high voltage code. Is it possible (likely) this was caused during the repair? Voltages and alternator function look good.

[@ecurepair]

Not very likely but if you feel the problem is in the pcm you should ask them to check it over again.

[@andrewscott2866]

@@ecurepair thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I truly appreciate it👊

[@congabuena]

I would like to send you a 2011 town and country 3.6 pcm. What do I have to do?

[@ecurepair]

Hello, you can contact me from my website or you can checkout from my store using this keyworks.us/engine-control-module-repairs-c97/chrysler-dodge-jeep/jeep-liberty-07-10-ecu-repair.html Make sure to use promocode SAVE10 to get 10% off

[@moshwitz]

@@ecurepair Just found this video, Awesome,,, I also have a 2011 Town and Country 3.6 and I'll be contacting you shortly ;-)

[@moshwitz]

@@ecurepair OK,, sent the Contact us mssg but got an error the first time. second one shows it went through. hope to hear from you😀

[@503jmn]

Can you tell me what the Power Pin voltages are? What current limit setting do you set the power supply to? I have an 06 300C Chrysler PCM I'm about to open and probe. The signal on the scope to my coil seems lower than the other 7 so I think that's causing my cylinder misfire. Want to bench test it like you but not sure the power pins/current and voltage settings. Any help appreciated!

[@erwinpadgett1050]

Do you repair ECUs for 1997 Grand Cherokee, 4.0L Not charging correctly? Volts show 13.58 for charging. Not showing on your page.

[@ecurepair]

I do but depending on which pn you have it may be cheaper to just replace it.

[@thefeistywombat]

Where can I find one of these mc33888 chips for replacement?

[@dillpickleboi1695]

Hey I’m having charging problems with my 2011 dodge Durango. Is it possible I could send my pcmto you to be repaired. I reallly don’t want to spend $1000 on a new pcm. Thank you

[@ecurepair]

Sure I do those, keyworks.us/engine-control-module-repairs-c97/chrysler-dodge-jeep/dodge-durango-3.6l-11-13-ecu-repair.html

[@AWD_T]

Can you repair voltage regulator in a 2000 xj ecu?

[@ecurepair]

I work on pretty much everything

[@AWD_T]

@@ecurepair How does one go about getting a quote?

[@ZoomAutoDiag]

Do you sell the test platform?

[@ecurepair]

This one im just using a logic analyzer and test light.

[@reload1531]

hi keyworks.any chance you would sell about 10 of those chips?

[@ecurepair]

Probably not. I use them often and dont have a reliable source for new ones. I'll think about it tho.

[@reload1531]

@@ecurepair maybe!!! 7?

[@SlamryCamry19]

Being as you repair ECU I'm guessing you have a vast understanding of a cars charging system my problem is I like to both camp and compete in car audio and my Toyota Camry LE has a smart charging system or a vvcs as I've been told it's called an ONBUS LINBUS electronics build and to be honest I didn't even know it had it or what it was when I leased the vehicle only to spend thousands on amps , subs lithium batteries,mini fridge etc. and then learned I'm stuck at 13.8 volts for charging and I can't upgrade my alternator without voiding my warranty (Hindsight) lol but I am looking for a way to step the voltage up to a lithium battery to supply everything I have built my own 192 AH headway bank of lithium cells the only thing I need is to turn 13.8 volts into 14.6 for proper charging so it's not constant maintenance and conditioning of the battery bank can you please recommend a device that will work and isn't some rigged up diode application that can possibly leave me stranded if one burns out

[@ecurepair]

Sorry I dont know toyota's all that well. That's pretty low for a target charging voltage. If the ecu is sensing the voltage based on what its seeing on the B+ then its probably not a good idea to try and spoof to read lower. If it has separate sensing wiring then might would be ok but I dont know what the effects would be of having it charge higher then its meant to.